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MEXICO  AS  IT  WAS  AND  AS  IT  IS. 


MEXICO 

AS    IT    WAS    AND    AS    IT    IS 


BRANTZ    MAYER, 

SECRETARY  OF  THE  U.  S.  LEGATION  TO  THAT  COUNTRY  IN  1841  AND  1812. 

WITH  NUMEROUS  ILLUSTRATIONS  ON  WOOD, 

ENGRAVED  EY  BUTLER  FROM  DRAWINGS  BY  THE  AUTHOR. 


rTHAMED   OF    PAPANTLfi 


J.  WINCHESTER,  NEW  WORLD  PRESS. 

llon&on  auir  13arts : 

WILEY   AND    PUTNAM. 

MDCCCXL1V. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress, 

B  V     J .     WINCHESTER, 

In  llic  Clerk'*  Oflicc  of  the  Southern  DUtricl  of  New-York. 


THE  GETTY  CENTER 
LIBRARY 


TO     THE 


HONORABLE   POWHATAN  ELLIS, 


ENVOY  EXTRAORDINARY  AND  MINISTER  PLENIPOTENTIARY  TO  MEXICO, 


THIS     VOLUME     IS     RESPECTFULLY     INSCRIBED 


EY     HIS     SINCERE     FRIEND, 


BRANTZ    MAYER. 


PREFACE 


I  have  been  exceedingly  desirous  to  be  just  to  Mexico,  in  the  following  letters, 
and  to  set  down  nothing  in  a  spirit  either  of  malice  or  of  praise. 

Between  our  country  and  Mexico,  a  veil  has  been  stretched  for  years,  through 
the  obscuring  meshes  of  which  we  have  been  compelled  to  behold  our  sister  Re- 
public. 

We  were  taught  to  believe,  that  Texas  was  a  territory  struggling  to  free  itself 
from  an  abominable  tyranny,  and  that  the  principles  which  animated  our  ancestors 
in  the  war  of  '76,  should  induce  us  to  look,  with  tearful  eyes  and  anxious  hearts, 
upon  a  band  of  trampled  heroes  revolting  against  brutal  taskmasters.  The  faults 
of  the  persecutor  and  the  trials  of  the  sufferer  were  both  exaggerated.  Indi- 
viduals from  some  of  our  States  were  assailed  by  the  temptation  of  profitable 
adventure  in  a  new  and  beautiful  country  ; — and  thus,  while  our  Government  was 
sincerely  anxious  to  preserve  her  good  faith  to  the  very  letter,  persons  have  not 
been  wanting  whose  indiscretion  has,  at  times,  apparently  compromised  that  faith, 
and  made  us  seem  to  be  foes  when,  in  fact,  we  were  friends. 

It  is  needless  for  me  to  say  a  word,  at  present,  upon  the  character  of  the  Texan 
Revolution,  and  I  have  merely  alluded  to  the  subject,  because  I  hold  this  revolt 
to  have  greatly  affected  the  mutual  interests  and  feelings  of  Mexico  and  our 
Union,  while  it  has  produced  neither  recognized  independence  nor  domestic  tran- 
quillity, to  the  Texans  themselves. 

Under  these  circumstances,  I  have  felt  it  to  be  my  duty  to  speak  of  Mexico 
plainly  and  justly ;  and  while  I  detailed  its  vices,  its  faults,  its  misery  and  its 
revolutions,  to  record  also  the  virtuous  and  meritorious  characteristics  of  its  popu- 
lation, which,  if  allowed  the  blessings  of  peaceful  culture,  would  lead  it  to  un- 
paralleled prosperity. 

In  the  remarks  which  will  be  found  herein,  upon  certain  ceremonies  in  the 
Roman  Catholic  Church  in  Mexico,  I  beg  that  my  purpose  may  not  be  miscon- 
strued :  I  do  not  attack  the  faith  or  the  institutions  of  that  venerable  society  \ 

"  I  speak  not  of  men's  creeds — they  rest  between 
Man  and  his  Maker ;" 

but  I  have  confined  myself,  exclusively,  to  those  painful  exhibitions,  which  cannot 
fail  to  strike  a  stranger,  as  disadvantageous,  both  to  intellectual  progress,  and 
the  pure  and  spiritual  adoration  of  God.     The  mixture?  <ej£  antique  barbaric  show 


vi  PREFACE. 

and  Indian  rites,  may  have  served  to  attract  the  native  population  at  the  first 
settlement  of  the  country  ;  but  their  continuance  is  in  keeping  neither  with  the 
spirit  of  the  age  nor  the  necessities  of  a  Republic.  While  the  priesthood  has 
contrived,  in  the  course  of  centuries,  to  attract  the  wealth  of  multitudes,  and 
to  make  itself,  in  various  ways,  the  richest  proprietor  of  the  nation,  the  people 
have  grown  poor  and  continued  ignorant.  It  has,  therefore,  appeared  to  me,  that 
in  a  Republic  like  Mexico,  where  the  Roman  Church  is  the  only  one  tolerated 
by  the  Constitution,  it  was  the  duty  of  that  Establishment  voluntarily  to  un- 
fetter its  wealth,  to  reform  its  ritual,  to  sweep  into  the  public  coffers  the  useless 
jewels  that  adorn  the  altars  and  statues — yet  do  not  glorify  the  Almighty — and  to 
imitate  the  virtues,  resolution  and  self-denial  of  its  ministers  in  our  country,  who, 
while  blending  themselves,  in  politics  and  public  spirit,  most  effectually  with  the 
masses,  have  devoted  their  lives  to  the  education  of  people  of  all  creeds  and 
classes,  for  support  and  independence. 

In  my  letters  on  Antiquities,  and  my  descriptions  of  the  condition  of  the  ancient 
Empire,  I  have  followed,  literally,  the  productions  of  Cortez,  Bernal  Diaz,  Clavi- 
gero,  and  Doctor  McCulloh ;  and  if  the  industrious  critic  does  not  always  find 
the  bottom  of  the  page  encumbered  with  references  to  volume  and  paragraph,  T 
beg  him  to  believe,  that  I  have  only  omitted  them  to  save  the  patience  of  the 
printer  and  of  less  exacting  readers. 

During  my  residence  in  Mexico,  I  passed  many  hours  in  the  Museum,  which 
contains  a  large  collection  of  Antiquities  found  throughout  the  Republic,  and  I 
greatly  regret  that  the  occupation  of  my  time  by  other  duties  limited  me  to  but  a 
brief  inspection  and  study  of  these  relics.  Besides  this,  there  are  but  few  persons 
or  works  to  aid  a  student  in  such  pursuits.  Yet,  with  my  mind  alive  to  the  inte- 
rest recently  created  by  American  writers,  and  a  natural  affection  for  every  monu- 
ment of  our  Continent's  history,  I  confess,  that  while  I  looked  with  wonder  at  the 
uncouth  idols  of  a  bloody  religion,  and  the  remains  of  a  partial  civilization,  I  desired 
to  convey  to  others  at  home  some  of  the  mingled  amazement  and  interest  with 
which  I  found  myself  excited.  I  desired  to  do  so,  especially,  with  the  hope  that 
men  of  leisure  and  taste  for  antiquarian  pursuits,  might  be  led  to  combine  and 
compare  such  drawings  as  I  presented,  with  those  more  beautifully  delineated  in 
the  works  of  Mr.  Stephens  and  of  other  writers ;  and  thus,  in  the  course  of  time, 
to  produce  a  connected  story  of  the  Past.  I  have  done  this  without  pretension  to 
antiquarian  lore.  I  have  not  presented  my  own  drawings,  alone,  in  these  letters ; 
but  I  have  collected  others  from  a  variety  of  valuable  works  that  are  too  costly  for 
general  circulation,  or  rarely  to  be  found  even  in  the  libraries  of  the  rich.*  And 
I  venture  to  cherish  the  belief,  that  when  the  minds  of  many  individuals  are 
enticed  to  apply  themselves  to  the  subject  of  American  Antiquities,  we  may, 
(even  if  no  conclusive  history  be  the  result,)  at  least,  preserve  many  memorials 
of  those  Red  Races  that  are  now  vanishing  like  the  leaves  of  their  native  forests. 

*  There  were  hut  seventy  copies  printed,  I  helieve,  of  Lord  Kinqsborouoh's  great  work  on  Mexican  An- 
tiquities, but  three  of  which  are  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic — one  in  Mexico,  another  in  Philadelphia,  and  the 
third  in  Boston.  >>' 

Nehki.'s  tasteful  work  is,  ako,  very  costly  ;  and  I  presume  there  are  not  more  than  half  a  dozen  copies  at 
most  in  our  country. 


PREFACE.  vn 

As  for  myself,  I  have  been,  as  it  were,  but  a  gatherer  of  pebbles.  Some  of  them 
are  carved,  and  I  give  them  to  you  to  examine.  We  must  all  unite  and  lay  our 
offerings  on  the  pile — no  matter  how  humble.     Time  will  build  the  monument. 

It  is  in  this  spirit  that  I  submit  my  accounts  of  Mexican  Antiquities,  and, 
taking  the  place  of  a  laboring  quarrier  who  is  willing  to  unearth  the  stones,  I 
leave  it  to  the  wiser  architect  to  put  each  in  its  place  and  decipher  its  legends 
and  its  sculpture. 

I  have  added  such  statistical  data  as  I  could  collect  from  authentic  sources,  upon 
the  Commerce,  Agriculture,  Manufactures,  Coinage,  Mines,  Church  and  General 
Government. 

In  many  instances,  I  have  only  been  enabled  to  present  estimates ;  but  when 
compelled  to  do  so,  I  have  derived  the  details  from  experienced  individuals,  whose 
long  residence  in  Mexico  and  habits  of  accurate  observation,  entitle  them  to  the 
greatest  confidence.  This  is  all  I  could  do  in  the  absence  of  full  and  luminous 
reports,  like  those  annually  issued  by  our  Departments  in  Washington. 

I  have,  thus,  endeavored  to  gratify  all  readers  who  desire  information  on  the 
social  condition,  religion,  antiquities,  statistics,  revolutions  and  politics  of  Mexico. 
I  have  endeavored  to  lift  the  veil  from  the  Past  and  the  Present.  The  Mexicans 
themselves  must  remove  it  from  the  Future 


Baltimore,  1st  December,  1843. 


CONTENTS 


LETTER    I. 
Voyage  out,      ....  .  ......1 

LETTER    H. 
Vera  Cruz,    -■-.--------  -  3 

LETTER    III. 
Ride  to  Xalapa,  and  the  Robbers  on  the  road, -.-9 

LETTER    IV. 
Xalapa  and  Perote, 15 

LETTER    V. 
Puebla, 23 

LETTER    VI. 
Pyramid  of  Cholula, 26 

LETTER    VII. 
Last  day's  ride  to  Mexico, -...33 

LETTER    VIII. 
The  City  of  Mexico, 38 

LETTER    IX. 
The  City  of  Mexico,        -        -        .        ..        -        .        .        .        .        .48 

LETTER    X. 
The  City  of  Mexico,    - 54 

LETTER    XI. 

A  Bull-Fight,  -       -      '-       -       -       .       .       .       .       .       .       :       -      58 


X  CONTENTS. 

LETTER    XII. 
Virgin  of  Guadalupe,  and  Festival, 63 

LETTER    XIII. 
Court  Ceremonies — Genera  ISanta  Anna — Diplomatic  Dinner,     ....       70 

LETTER    XIV. 

San  Augustin  de  las  Cuevas,  and  the  Feast  of  San  Augustin — Gambling  and 

Cock-fighting, 76 

LETTER     XV. 

Revolution — Wax-figures — Museum — Antiquities,  .....  81 

LETTER     XVI. 
Museum  and  Antiquities, ....90 

LETTER     XVH. 
Teoyaoniqui — Mexican  Mythology,         ........         109 

LETTER     XVIII. 
Priests — Temples — Sacrifices, H5 

LETTER    XIX. 
Mexican  Calendar,         -------....         126 

LETTER    XX. 
City  of  Mexico  as  it  was  at  the  Conquest,  .......     131 

LETTER    XXI. 
Murders — Tacuba — Festival  of  Remedios,     .......         140 

LETTER    XXII. 
Carnival — Lent — Holy- Week, 149 

LETTER     XXIII. 

Neighborhood  of  Mexico — Chapultepec — Tacubaya,  and  the  murder  of  Mr.  Eger- 

ton — St.  Angel — Desieito,      -- 156 

JOURNAL 

Of  a  Journey  in  the  Tierra-Caliente,  being  an  account  of  a  Visit  to  Cuernavaca, 
the  Ruins  of  Xochicalco,  Cavern  of  Cacahuawanulpa,  Cuautla  de  Amilpas, 
and  Mexican  Haciendas, 161 


CONTENTS.  xi 

LETTER    XXIV. 
Ascent  to  the  summit  of  the  Volcano  of  Popocatepetl,        .....     208 

JOURNAL 

Of  a  Journey  to  Tezcoco — the  Pyramids  of  Teotihuacan — the  Hill  of  Tezcosingo, 

&c.  &c,  and  Account  of  American  Antiquities,       -         -  .         .     217 

LETTER     XXV. 

Whence  came  the  ancient  Population  ?     Who  built  the  Ancient  Cities  ?     Who 

worshipped  the  Idols  ? --        254 

LETTER     XXVI. 

City  of  Mexico — Public  Institutions — Prisons,  and  Prison  Statistics — Academy — 

Private  Collections, 265 

LETTER    XXVII. 

Desagua — Carriages — Mules — Troops  —  Music  —  Opera — Recruits  —  Theatres — 

Mexican  Thieves — The  Judge  and  Turkey,  .....        282 

LETTER     XXVIII. 
Mexican  Character, -         -         -         -         -         -         292 

LETTER     XXIX. 
Territory — Population  and  Departments — Rates  of  Castes  and  Education — Schools 

and  Colleges — Periodicals,  ..-..-.-        299 

LETTER     XXX. 
Commerce  and  Manufactures  of  Mexico,  .......         -     305 

LETTER     XXXI. 

Revenue   and  Resources  of  Mexico — Army — Navy — Produce  of  Mines — Total 

amount  of  Coinage — The  Churcli — Its  Wealth  and  Influence,  ...     317 

LETTER     XXXII. 
Political  History,  -  -_..- 328 

LETTER    XXXIII. 
Political  Prospects  of  Mexico,  --...-..-.     350 
Conclusion,  .............        355 


XII  CONTENTS. 

APPENDIX    NO.     I. 

A  Supplementary  Letter  on  the  Sandwich  Islands,  the  Californias,  and  the  foreign 

policy  of  the  United  States,  in  regard  to  the  encroachments  of  England,         357 

APPENDIX    NO.     II. 
Letters  from  H.  R.  Colcraft,  Esq.,  on  American  Antiquities,        ....    379 

APPENDIX    NO.    III. 
Letter  from  Horatio  Hale,  Esq.,  on  the  Origin  of  the  Mexican  Tribes,       -        -        382 

APPENDIX    NO.    IV. 
Meteorological  Observations  in  the  City  of  Mexico,    ......     384 

APPENDIX    NO.    V. 
Prices  of  Provisions,  &c,  &c 385 


MEXICO 


AS    IT    WAS   AND    AS    IT    IS 


LETTER    I. 


VOYAGE  TO  VERA  CRUZ. 


I  left  New- York  on  the  27th  of  October,  1841,  with  a  fair  wind,  and 
on  the  twelfth  day  after,  at  sunrise,  saw  the  lofty  peak  of  Orizaba,  towering 
above  the  distant  line  of  the  western  horizon. 

I  have  rarely  beheld  a  more  beautiful  sight  than  this  was.  The  mar- 
itime Alps,  as  seen  from  the  Gulf  of  Lyons,  present  a  spectacle  of  great 
majesty  and  beauty.  But  this  grand  and  solitary  peak,  lifting  its  head 
more  than  17,000  feet  above  the  ocean,  the  sentinel,  as  it  were,  of  a  land 
toward  which  you  may  still  sail  for  days  before  you  arrive,  has  struck 
every  traveller  with  wonder  since  the  days  when  Cortez  first  hailed  it  on 
his  adventurous  voyage  for  the  conquest  of  Mexico. 

*  *  *  *  *  * 

Our  vessel  has  been  quite  full  of  passengers  in  cabin  and  steerage ; 
merchants,  going  out  to  gather  in  their  fortunes  in  this  country ;  manu- 
facturers, keen  and  thrifty,  with  their  machinery,  ready  to  take  advantage 
of  the  ample  profits  to  be  reaped  in  the  "  cotton  line"  from  the  protection 
of  national  industry  in  Mexico ;  a  German  student,  fresh  from  his  alma 
mater,  adventuring  for  fortune  in  Vera  Cruz,  in  spite  of  all  competition 
and  the  vomito;  a  gentle  maiden,  sighing  for  somebody  at  the  end  of  the 
voyage ;  a  staunch  Scotch  operative,  with  a  wife  and  two  children,  the 
latter  of  whom  made  up  in  their  little  private  volunteer  squalls  for  the 
sea  squalls  we  missed ;  and  last  of  all,  a  worthy  old  Italian  fighter,  who 
1 


2  MEXICO. 

had  gone  with  Napoleon  through  all  his  campaigns,  and,  at  length,  deter- 
mining that  war  was  not  a  thriving  occupation,  had  pitched  upon  a  way 
of  making  his  fortune  by  taking  a  dapper  little  Mexican  body,  for  his  wife, 
and  the  "  hatting  business,"  as  a  trade. 

In  fact,  we  had  on  board  specimens  of  all  that  active  industry  and 
fearless  enterprise,  which  push  the  fortunes  of  our  native  and  adopted 
citizens  all  over  the  world,  and  make  our  country  known  as  much  by  the 
resistless  energy  of  her  children,  as  by  the  political  liberty  they  enjoy  at 
home,  or  which  is  extended  to  them  by  the  protection  of  her  flag  abroad. 

I  commenced  this  voyage  in  low  spirits,  and  with  but  a  slight  desire  to 
partake  of  the  pleasures  of  the  cabin ;  but,  what  with  charming  weather 
and  good  companionship,  I  was  soon  drawn  forth  from  my  state-room,  to 
the  social  table ;  and  rarely  have  I  passed  a  more  agreeable  time  in  a 
voyage  at  sea.  The  variety  of  character  thus  blended  together,  was 
both  amusing  and  instructive.  There  were  tempers  to  suit  the  grave  and 
the  gay ;  and  when  the  hour  came  for  separation,  we  met  for  the  last 
time  around  the  board  with  saddened  hearts,  at  the  contemplation  of  the 
certainty  that  by  far  the  larger  portion  of  us  would  meet  no  more,  and 
that  all  were  about  to  encounter  the  uncertainties  of  fortune  in  a  strange 
country,  amid  prejudices,  disease,  and  revolutions. 


LETTER    II. 


VERA    CRUZ. 


You  left  me  in  sight  of  land — on  soundings— with  the  Peak  of  Orizaba 
in  full  view;  and  although  we  presumed  it  highly  probable  that  we 
would  make  our  harbor  before  evening,  yet  were  we  disappointed. 
The  wind  became  baffling  toward  noon,  and  notwithstanding  our  captain 
was  a  brave  man  and  stanch  seaman,  he  determined,  at  nightfall,  to 
avoid  running  close  in  with  the  shore,  and  therefore  "  lay  to"  until  day- 
light. Nothing  could  be  more  provoking ;  the  city  was  not  more  than  ten 
miles  distant,  and  the  lights  in  the  houses  were  distinctly  visible  over  the 
level  sea. 

With  the  first  streak  of  dawn,  however,  all  was  bustle  on  deck,  and  the 
topsails  spread  to  the  morning  breeze.  Day  broke  gloriously  over  the 
sea  ;  our  colors  were  run  up  ;  the  ship  headed  for  the  harbor ;  and  when 
within  a  mile  or  two  of  the  castle,  a  pilot  came  on  board.  Our  first  in- 
quiry was  as  to  the  yellow  fever — our  next,  as  to  the  revolution.  Of 
the  first  disease  there  were  no  remains,  and  the  latter  had  terminated  in 
the  political  death  of  Bustamante. 

At  eight  o'clock  we  moored  under  the  walls  of  the  Castle  of  St.  Juan 
de  Ulloa  ;  and  in  an  hour  afterward,  with  umbrellas  spread  to  protect  us 
from  the  scorching  November  sun,  we  landed  on  the  quay  which  has  for 
so  many  years  poured  out  the  wealth  of  Mexico. 

Vera  Cruz  lies  on  a  low,  sandy  shore,  extending  for  miles  along  the 
coast.  I  will  not  trouble  you  with  the  details  of  this  city's  history,  famous 
as  the  spot  where  thousands  have  come  to  die  of  the  vomito — or,  to  make 
their  fortunes  (if  they  survive  the  certain  attack  of  that  disease,)  and 
return  with  shattered  constitutions  to  colder  climates,  to  ache  in  memory 
of  the  heat  they  endured  in  Mammon's  service. 

Landing  at  the  Moletta,  the  first  thing  that  struck  me  was  a  gang  of 
more  than  a  hundred  galley-slaves,  chained,  and  at  work  in  the  broil- 
ing sun,  cutting  and  carrying  stone  to  repair  the  broken  pier.  The 
second  was  the  roofs  of  the  churches,  which  seemed  to  be  covered  with 
mourning,  as  I  supposed  for  some  deceased  prelate.  The  mourning 
turned  out,  however,  to  be  nothing  more  than  thousands  of  zopilotes  or 
turkey-buzzards,  the  chief  of  whom  is  usually  perched  on  the  peak  of 
the  cross  of  the  loftiest  church — a  sentinel  for  prey  !  These  two  classes 
of  folks,  to  wit :  the  galley-slaves  and  zopilotes,  constitute  a  large  part 
1* 


4  MEXICO. 

of  the  most  useful  population  of  Vera  Cruz — the  former  being  the  city 
authorities'  laborers,  the  latter  the  city  authorities'  scavengers.  It  is  a 
high  crime  to  kill  a  zopilote.  He  is  under  the  protection  of  the  laws,  and 
walks  the  streets  with  as  much  nonchalance  and  as  "  devil-may-care  " 
a  look  as  other  "  gentlemen  in  black,"  who  pick  the  sins  from  our  souls 
as  these  creatures  pick  impurities  from  the  streets. 

The  Mole,  or  quay,  is  of  good  masonry  and  furnished  with  stairs  and 
cranes  for  the  landing  of  goods,  though  from  the  great  violence  of  the 
ocean  during  the  Northers,  and  the  great  neglect  of  proper  repairs,  it  is 
likely  to  be  entirely  ruined.  In  heavy  weather  the  sea  makes  a  clear 
breach  over  it ;  yet  this,  and  the  Castle  of  San  Juan  on  a  land-spit  near 
a  mile  oflj  are  the  only  protections  for  the  shipping* of  all  nations  and  the 
commerce  of  more  than  half  the  Republic  ! 

Passing  from  the  Mole  you  enter  the  city  by  an  unfinished  gateway, 
near  which  Santa  Anna  lost  his  leg  during  the  attack  of  the  French  in 
1838.  Beyond  this  portal  is  a  large  square,  which  will  be  surrounded 
with  custom-house  buildings — though  there  is  now  scarce  a  symptom  of 
them  except  in  the  granite  stones,  most  of  which  have  been  imported  from 
the  United  States.  From  this  spot,  a  short  walk  to  the  left  leads  you  to 
the  arcade  of  a  street,  and  you  soon  find  yourself  in  the  public  square  of 
the  city,  which,  though  small  in  its  dimensions,  is  neat  and  substantial. 
On  the  east,  north,  and  west,  it  is  bounded  by  noble  ranges  of  edifices, 
built  over  light  arches — the  one  to  the  eastward,  with  its  back  to  the  sea, 
being  the  former  Governor's  residence,  and  still  appropriated  to  the  civil 
and  military  purposes  of  the  State.  On  the  south  of  the  square  is  the 
parish  church,  with  its  walls  blackened  with  sea-damps  and  zopilotes. 

The  streets  of  Vera  Cruz,  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles,  are  well 
paved  with  smooth  pebbles,  and  the  side-walks  are  covered  with  a  cement 
resembling  orescia.  The  houses,  in  general,  are  exceedingly  well  con- 
structed to  suit  the  climate,  and  though  not  of  very  imposing  architecture, 
yet  with  their  flat  roofs,  parti-colored  awnings,  and  display  of  women  and 
flowers  from  their  balconied  windows,  make  the  city  both  cool  and  pic- 
turesque. Upon  the  whole,  I  must  confess  that  I  have  seen  worse  look- 
ing cities  than  Vera  Cruz,  even  in  the  "  picture-land  "  of  Italy ;  and  when, 
from  the  roofs  of  the  dwellings,  I  look  at  the  open  sea  in  front,  the  exceed- 
ingly clean  streets,  and  the  desolate  coast  of  sand  and  stunted  shrubbery, 
which  extends  north  and  south  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  I  am  at  a  loss 
to  know  why  it  is  so  cursed  with  disease.  St.  Augustine,  St.  Mary's,  and 
a  hundred  places  along  our  southern  sea-coast,  have  infinitely  more  the 
appearance  of  nests  for  malaria. 

It  is  said,  that  in  the  early  period  of  the  history  of  this  country,  Vera 
Cruz  was  not  so  sickly  as  of  late  years,  and  that,  although  there  were 
occasional  attacks  of  violent  fever,  it  was  not  until  1699  that  the  Black 
Vomit  made  its  appearance.  In  that  year  an  English  vessel  arrived  in 
the  port  with  a  cargo  of  slaves,  and  with  them  came  this  fatal  disease. 
The  Spanish  chronicles  of  the  town,  of  that  date,  give  the  most  fright- 


VERA  CRUZ.  5 

ful  pictures  of  its  outbreak,  and  of  the  heroism  with  which  the  priests 
(especially  the  Jesuits,)  devoted  themselves  to  the  ill  and  dying;  and  the 
father  Francisco  Xavier  Alegre  dwells  with  pleasure  on  the  self-sacrifice 
with  which  his  holy  brethren  met  the  fell  monster  and  ministered  to  the 
wants  of  the  sufferers. 


It  was  entirely  too  warm,  even  in  this  middle  of  November,  to  stir  out 
of  the  house  with  satisfaction.  We  therefore  dressed  ourselves  in  sum- 
mer apparel,  and  took  an  excellent  dinner  very  quietly,  resolved  not  to 
expose  our  persons  unnecessarily,  as  we  understood  there  had  been  recent 
cases  of  vomito.  A  number  of  gentlemen  called  to  see  us,  and  I  found 
the  Governor  and  other  officers  exceedingly  anxious  to  afford  us  all  the 
protection  in  their  power  on  the  road  to  Mexico.  They  say  that  the  coun- 
try has  been  lately  scoured  by  troops  of  dragoons,  but  that  it  is  still  in- 
fested with  robbers ;  and,  although  we  are  to  have  a  military  escort,  our 
friends  appear  to  intimate  that  Colt's  revolving  pistols,  double-barrelled 
guns,  and  a  stock  of  resolution  and  coolness,  will  be  our  best  safeguards. 
We  have,  therefore,  taken  the  stage  which  will  depart  four  days  hence ; 
and  as  we  are  amply  prepared  with  arms  and  ammunition,  and  a  number 
of  determined  passengers,  I  trust  we  shall  reach  the  capital  without  having 
our  noses  stamped  in  the  ground  after  the  most  approved  fashion  of  the 
Ladrones. 

At  sunset,  a  countryman  was  so  good  as  to  call  for  us  to  walk  with 
him  to  the  Alameda.  We  sallied  from  the  south  gate,  and  took  our  way 
into  a  desolate  and  melancholy  country.  On  every  side  were  marks  of 
solitude  and  misery.  The  ruins  of  houses  and  churches,  filled  with 
weeds  and  creepers  ;  neglected  fields,  overgrown  with  aloes  and  made 
still  more  sad  by  the  long  pensile  branches  of  the  solitary  palm ;  and,  over 
all  lay  the  dark  shadows  of  evening,  as  the  last  rays  of  the  sun  fell 
aslant  on  the  stagnant  pools.  A  sergeant  was  drilling  a  few  recruits  to 
the  tap  of  the  drum.  The  music  seemed  to  be  a  dead  march,  and  the 
step  of  the  soldiers  was  slow  and  solemn.  Nothing  could  be  more  dreary 
— more  heart-sickening.  We  loitered  on,  like  the  rest  of  folks,  but  there 
was  no  liveliness — no  spirit.  The  people  were  not  cheerful  and  joyous 
as  when  abroad  with  us  for  an  evening's  promenade,  but  strolled  along 
in  silent  pairs,  as  if  oppressed  by  the  sadness  of  the  melancholy  wastes 
on  the  one  side,  and  the  cold,  dreary,  illimitable  sea  on  the  other. 

The  appropriate  termination  of  this  walk  through  the  ruined  Alameda, 
was  the  burying-ground.  As  we  reached  it,  a  funeral  had  just  entered, 
and  in  the  chapel  they  were  saying  some  annual  service  for  the  dead  ! 
It  may  be  wrong  to  indulge  in  such  emotions,  but  here  there  really  seems 
to  be  an  utter  hopelessness  in  death.     We  love  to  think,  that  when  it  falls 


6  MEXICO. 

to  our  lot  to  share  the  common  fate  of  humanity,  we  shall,  at  least,  re- 
pose near  our  kindred  and  friends,  in  some  beautiful  spot,  where  those  we 
have  loved  shall  moulder  beside  us,  until  the  dust  we  cherished  in  life 
shall  be  as  blent  as  were  the  spirits  that  animated  it.  We  love  to  think 
that  our  graves  will  not  be  solitary  or  unvisited.  But,  on  this  dismal 
shore,  where  the  Shadow  of  Death  for  ever  hangs  over  the  prospect,  the 
grave  is  not  a  resting-place,  even  for  tired  spirits,  and  the  soul  seems  to 
perish  as  well  as  the  body  ! 


I  came  home  with  as  capital  a  "  fit  of  the  blues"  as  ever  was  born  in 
London  of  a  gloomy  November  day  and  a  melancholy  temper ;  and  I 
must  confess  that  I  passed  the  night  somewhat  nervously.  What  with 
the  heat  and  exercise,  our  bodies  were  rather  tired  ;  but  what  with  the 
vomito,  the  sad  walk,  and  a  little  excitability,  I  do  not  remember  to 
have  slept  a  wink.  In  addition  to  these  annoyances,  there  was  a  con- 
tinual hubbub  in  the  square  under  our  windows  all  night  long.  First 
of  all,  the  guard  was  to  be  set,  and  that  produced  drumming,  fifing, 
braying  of  trumpets,  and  bustle  of  troops  ;  next,  my  bed  was  too  short 
for  me  ;  then,  just  as  I  was  coaxing  myself  into  a  doze,  I  discovered  that 
the  servant  had  neglected  to  put  down  the  net,  and  consequently,  came 
the  onset  of  a  colony  of  thirty  mosquitos,  ravenous  for  the  fresh  blood 
of  a  foreigner,  after  having  dulled  their  beaks  a  whole  season  on  Mexi- 
can skins  ;  next,  the  clock  on  the  opposite  tower  struck  every  quarter, 
and  that  was  backed,  with  equal  regularity,  by  the  watchman  under  the 
porlales,  who  prefaced  his  song  with  an  "  Ave  Maria  Purissima"  that 
would  have  waked  the  dead.  And  thus  from  hour  to  hour  I  tossed  and 
tumbled,  while  the  clock  struck,  the  watchmen  howled,  and  the  mosqui- 
tos sucked — occasionally  amusing  myself  by  trying  to  feel  some  of  the 
symptoms  of  the  vomito  !  But  clay  at  length  broke,  and  a  cold  bath  and 
a  hearty  breakfast  perfectly  reestablished  me. 

One  of  my  fellow-travellers  who  was  anxious  to  avoid  the  risk  of  wait- 
ing in  Vera  Cruz  for  the  diligence,  informed  me  about  ten  o'clock,  that 
he  had  made  arrangements  for  a  "  litem"  to  carry  him  to  Xalapa,  there 
to  await  the  stage  and  rejoin  our  party.  He  was  so  good  as  to  offer  me 
a  part  of  his  couch,  which  I  eagerly  accepted,  and  immediately  set  to 
work  packing  my  extra  baggage  for  the  Arrieros,  as  the  diligence,  and 
the  muleteers  who  accompany  literas,  will  carry  but  a  limited  burden. 
At  four  the  litera  arrived,  but  the  muleteers  would  allow  but  one  pas- 
senger !  There  was  nothing  but  submission.  Pancho  had  his  bundles 
strapped  on,  stepped  into  his  vehicle,  or  rather  stretched,  out  on  its  bed, 
lighted  his  cigar,  tied  on  a  Guayaquil  sombrero,  and  waved  us  farewell. 

A  Utera  is  an  article  of  rather  curious  conveyance.  Here  is  a  draw- 
ing of  it.     The  pencil  speaks  better  to  the  mind  than  any  description  I 


VERA   CRUZ, 


ean  give  you  of  it.     It  would  create  a  sensation  in  Broadway,  and  is  de- 
cidedly more  picturesque  and  comfortable  than  a  cab  or  an  omnibus. 


I  send  you  some  interesting  tables  as  to  the  health  and  commerce  of 
Vera  Cruz,  which  I  have  compiled  from  accurate  sources. 

ACCOUNT    OF    THE    BAPTISMS    AND    BURIALS    IN   VERA    CRUZ    FOR    1841. 


Males. 

Fem. 

Tot. 

Total. 

Rapt-isms 

214 

240 

454|Marriages 

DEATHS. 

'    ' 

37 

Males. 

Fem. 

Tot. 

Males. 

Fem. 

Tot. 

In  the  Parroquia 

. 

215 

271 

486 

Hospital  of  Loreto     - 

000 

146 

146 

Hospital  of  St.  Seb 

istian  254 

000 

254 

Hosp.  of  S.  Carlos 

.     131 

000 

131 

Total 

AGES. 

600 

417 

1017 

Males. 

Fem. 

Tot. 

Males. 

Fem. 

Tot. 

From  1  to    7   - 

. 

94 

135 

229 

From  26  to    50 

249 

132 

381 

"     8  to  15 

, 

32 

36 

68 

"     51  to    75    . 

.      35 

23 

58 

"   16  to  25   - 

- 

188 

85 

273 

"     76  to  100 

2 

6 

8 

DISEASES. 

Males. 

Fem. 

Tot. 

Males, 

Fem. 

Tot. 

Vomito     . 

. 

120 

35 

155 

Diabetis   ... 

1 

0 

1 

Small  Pox  - 

. 

64 

78 

142 

Epilepsy 

1 

0 

1 

Fevers 

. 

98 

44 

142 

Marasmus 

0 

1 

1 

Phthisis  and  Diarrhoea 

151 

61 

212 

Leprosy 

0 

1 

1 

Convulsions 

. 

39 

11 

50 

Aneurism 

0 

2 

2 

Apoplexy     - 

. 

10 

7 

17 

Abcess 

3 

1 

4 

Dysentery         * 

. 

7 

22 

29 

Dropsy     ... 

10 

9 

19 

Cholic          ... 

. 

3 

7 

10 

Ulcers 

4 

0 

4 

Pulmonia 

. 

3 

5 

-8 

Flow  of  Blood  - 

0 

8 

2 

Pleurisy 

. 

3 

2 

5 

Child-birth 

0 

12 

12 

Asthma    - 

. 

0 

4 

•  4 

Drowned 

1 

0 

1 

Causas 

. 

1 

.2 

3 

Contusions  - 

0 

1 

1 

Gangrene 

. 

7 

5 

12 

Wounds  ... 

7 

0 

7 

Inflammation 

. 

3 

6 

9 

Diseases  of  children 

.      63 

99 

162 

Cholera  (glacial) 

. 

1 

U 

1 



- 



Total 

600 

417 

1017 

8  MEXICO. 

Thus,  allowing  the  population  of  Vera  Cruz  to  be  about  6.500  (which 
I  consider  quite  liberal,)  you  will  perceive  that  one-sixth  of  the  whole 
died  in  the  course  of  the  year  ;  of  this,  one-sixth — about  an  equal  propor- 
tion— perished  from  vomilo.  The  excess  of  burials  over  baptisms  is  563. 
Diarrhoea,  dysentery  and  vomito  are  the  most  fatal  maladies.  In  1842, 
I  am  told  that  near  2000  died  of  vomito  in  Vera  Cruz.  This,  however, 
was  owing  to  the  number  of  raw  troops  sent  there  from  the  interior,  to  be 
embarked  for  Yucatan.  It  is  to  be  regretted,  that  I  have  no  data  from 
which  I  can  inform  you  what  is  the  relative  proportion  of  the  deaths 
among  natives  and  foreigners,  and  of  those  who  visit  Vera  Cruz  from  the 
interior.  It  has  struck  me,  nevertheless,  that  this  document  will  be  inte- 
resting to  medical  readers. 

It  will  be  observed  from  the  following  table,  that  the  amount  of  wa- 
ter which  has  fallen  in  each  year,  very  far  exceeds  the  quantity  known 
to  fall  annually  in  any  part  of  the  United  States.  With  us  it  scarcely 
exceeds  four  feet.  It  is  not,  however,  difficult  to  account  for  the  differ- 
ence. Vera  Cruz,  situated  at  the  bottom  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  backed 
by  a  lofty  range  of  mountains  rising  beyond  the  limits  of  perpetual  con- 
gelation, must  necessarily  be  the  recipient  of  the  immense  body  of  water 
held  in  solution  by  the  hot  intertropical  air,  and  which  is  constantly  car- 
ried along  by  the  trade-winds,  to  be  condensed  against  the  cold  moun- 
tains. This  will  sufficiently  account  for  the  fact ;  although  we  were  far 
from  being  prepared  to  expect  its  nature  and  extent  to  be  such  as  is  here 
stated. 

Feet.  Inch. 
In  the  year  1822  there  fell,  13,  1.5  in  the  12  months. 

1823  15,  8.9  « 

1824  10,  8.1 

1825  10,  7.1 
1826*  5, 4.4 

1827  21, 2.8  10 

1828  12, 2.0  12 

1829  23,  2.3 

1830  18, 0.0 

*  This  year  was  remarkably  dry;  and  was  moreover  characterized  by  universally  severe  weather  upon  the 
coast,  and  a  great  destruction  of  shipping  property. 


LETTER  III. 

THE  RIDE  TO  XALAPA,  AND  THE  ROBBERS  WE  MET  ON  THE  ROAD. 

During  the  last  two  days  of  our  stay  at  Vera  Cruz,  it  blew  a  Norther. 
The  wind  was  high,  and  made  it  impossible  for  ships  to  enter  the  port. 
We  spent  the  last  afternoon  at  the  water-gate  of  the  city,  watching  the 
waves  as  they  spent  their  fury  on  the  Mole,  and  the  ships,  anchored  under 
the  lee  of  the  Castle,  tugging  at  their  cables  like  impatient  coursers  strug- 
gling to  get  loose.  With  these  fine  adjuncts  of  marine  scenery,  and  the 
low  brooding  clouds  of  the  stormy  sky,  I  have  never  beheld  a  scene  more 
worthy  of  the  pencil  of  our  countryman,  Birch. 

After  supper  we  made  our  final  preparations  for  departure.  Trunks 
were  strapped  on  the  diligence,  old  and  warmer  clothing  put  on,  and,  at 
midnight,  nine  of  us  got  into  the  American  Coach  for  our  journey  to  the 
Capital. 

The  stories  of  numerous  robberies,  and  the  general  insecurity  of  the 
road,  had  been  dinned  into  our  ears  ever  since  we  arrived.  Scarcely  a 
diligence  came  in  that  did  not  bring  accounts  of  the  levying  of  contribu- 
tions. Before  we  left  the  United  States,  many  friends  who  had  visited  this 
country,  warned  me  of  my  danger,  and  advising  me  to  prepare  myself  with 
a  couple  of  Colt's  revolvers,  hoped  that  I  might  reach  the  Capital  in  safety. 

Now,  for  my  own  part,  though  not  disposed  to  be  rash  on  any  occasion, 
I  always  received  these  tales  "  cum  grano."  But  I  nevertheless  took  the 
precaution  to  load  my  double-barrelled  gun  with  large  buckshot.  S. 
prepared  his  double-barrelled  rifle  and  a  Colt's  pistol  with  four  discharges. 
J.  took  his  Birmingham  and  horse-pistols.  Another  person  had  a  pair  of 
pocket-irons,  and  ground  an  old  fashioned  dress  sword  to  a  very  sharp  point. 
John,  the  servant,  loaded  a  pistol  and  blunderbuss  for  the  box  ;  and  thus, 
harnessed  and  equipped,  we  sallied  at  midnight  from  the  court- yard,  as 
resolved  as  any  men  who  ever  went  on  a  feudal  foray,  to  kill  the  first  ill- 
looking  miscreant  who  poked  a  hostile  nose  in  our  coach  windows.  By  way, 
however,  of  making  ourselves  perfectly  secure,  and  of  passing  the  night 
with  additional  comfort,  I  took  care,  as  soon  as  we  were  seated,  to  point 
my  own  weapon  out  of  the  window,  and  to  see  that  my  companions  had 
their  arms  in  such  position's  that  if  they  did  "go  off,"  there  would  be  no 
harm  done,  at  least  to  the  passengers. 

It  was  very  dark  when  we  issued  from  the  gates  of  the  city,  where  our 
passports  were  demanded.  Accustomed,  of  late  years,  to  the  unmolested 
travelling  of  our  Union,  I  had  put  mine  at  the  bottom  of  the  trunk,  and 


10  MEXICO. 

forgot  all  about  the  necessity  of  having  it  in  my  pocket.  The  drowsy 
guard,  however,  took  my  word  for  the  fact  that  I  had  one,  and  permitted 
us  to  pass  on. 

A  warm,  drizzling  rain  was  pattering  down,  driven  in  by  the  Norther 
which  was  still  raging  and  dashing  the  sea  in  long  surges  on  the  sandy 
beach  along  which  our  road  lay  for  several  miles.  We  could  see  nothing ; 
the  way  soon  became  almost  impassable  through  the  deep  sand,  though 
our  heavy  coach  was  drawn  by  eight  horses  ;  and  proposing  that  the  cur- 
tains should  be  let  down,  at  least  on  my  side.  I  was  soon  in  a  profound 
sleep,  nor  did  I  awake  until  near  sunrise,  as  we  were  passing  the  estate 
of  Santa  Anna,  at  Manga  de  Clavo.  His  hacienda  was  in  the  distance, 
to  the  right  of  the  road,  and  appeared  to  be  a  long,  low  edifice,  buried 
among  forests,  but  without  those  signs  of  improvement  and  cultivation 
which  make  the  property  of  our  great  landholders  so  picturesque.  He 
owns  an  immense  body  of  land  in  this  neighborhood,  lying  for  leagues 
along  the  road,  but  all  seemed  as  barren  and  unattractive  as  the  wild- 
ernesses of  our  far  west. 

During  the  night,  an  escort  of  three  troopers  had  joined  us  at  Bocche- 
rone.  At  daylight  I  caught  sight  of  them,  for  the  first  time,  in  their  long 
yellow  cloaks,  trotting  along  behind  us  on  their  small,  but  tough  and 
trusty  horses.  They  were  three  as  poor  looking  wretches  as  I  ever  saw  : 
one  of  them  appeared  to  be  just  out  of  a  fit  of  fever;  the  other  a  little  the 
worse  for  an  extra  cup  of  aguardiente  ;  and  the  third,  as  though  he  had 
just  recovered  from  a  month's  chattering  of  the  ague. 

The  road  thus  far  had  been  tolerably  good,  although  much  cut  up  by 
the  recent  passage  of  baggage-wagons  and  trains  of  artillery.  About 
seven  o'clock  we  halted  at  the  village  of  Manantial  for  breakfast.  It  is 
the  usual  stopping-place  for  the  diligence,  and  we  were  of  course  immedi- 
ately supplied  with  chocolate  and  biscuit.  Our  servitor  was  the  Padrone's 
wife ;  and  I  could  not  help  remarking  her  extreme  beauty,  and  the  mu- 
sical sweetness  of  her  voice,  as  she  attended  at  the  counter  of  her  hut. 
Her  Spanish  was  almost  as  liquid  as  Italian,  and  as  soft  as  her  eyes. 

The  houses  in  this  part  of  Mexico  are  mostly  built  of  split  bamboos,  set 
upright  in  the  ground,  with  a  steep  roof,  thatched  with  palm-leaves,  and 
prepared  of  course,  to  admit  freely  the  sun,  wind  and  rain,  which,  during 
the  season,  is  sufficiently  abundant.  Upon  the  whole,  they  are  very 
respectable  and  picturesque  chicken-coops. 

Here  our  guard  quitted  us.  It  seems,  notwithstanding  the  written 
orders  and  promise  I  had  from  the  commandant  at  Vera  Cruz  for  an 
escort,  that  these  fellows  had  received  no  directions  to  accompany  us, 
and  had  only  ridden  thus  far  because  they  thought  the  new  Minister  of 
Finance,  Senor  Trigueros,  was  in  the  stage.  But  I  can  scarcely  think 
they  were  a  loss.  While  my  companions  were  finishing  their  lunch,  I 
took  occasion  to  examine  their  arms,  not  looking,  however,  at  more  than 
one  carbine,  and  that  I  found  had  lost  the  catch  of  its  cock,  which  ot 
course  always  lay  against  the  covering  of  the  pan,  pressing  it  open.     I 


TOXALAPA.  11 

mentioned  this  to  the  trooper,  and  asked  him  where  he  put  the  powder  ? 
"  There,  to  be  sure,"  said  he,  pointing  to  the  pan.  "And  how  do  you  fire 
it?"  "Pshaw,"  replied  the  fellow,  staggering  off — "'tis  better  so."  He 
was  half  drunk,  and  as  ridiculous  as  his  weapon.  If  these  are  the  soldiers 
of  Mexico,  they  hardly  rise  to  the  dignity  of  respectable  scare-crows. 

We  were  soon  called  to  coach,  and  mounting  our  vehicle  with  better 
spirits  for  the  refreshment  and  morning  air,  we  shortly  entered  a  rolling 
country,  with  an  occasional  ruinous  hamlet  and  plantation.  Although 
the  scenery  was  in  spots  exceedingly  romantic,  interspersed  with  upland 
and  valley,  and  covered  with  a  profusion  of  tropical  trees  and  flowers, 
there  was  over  the  whole  that  air  of  abandonment  which  could  not  fail  to 
strike  one  painfully.  In  a  new  country,  as  a  traveller  passes,  by  a  soli- 
tary bridle-path,  over  the  plains  and  hills,  hidden  by  the  primeval  forests 
fresh  as  they  came  from  Nature's  hand,  there  is  matter  for  agreeable 
reflection,  in  fancying  what  the  virgin  soil  will  produce  in  a  few  years 
when  visited  by  industry  and  taste.  But  here,  Nature  instead  of  being 
pruned  of  her  luxuriance  with  judicious  care,  has  been  literally  sapped 
and  exhausted,  and  made  old  even  in  her  youth,  until  she  again  begins  to 
renew  her  empire  among  ruins.  It  is  true,  that  traces  of  old  cultivation 
are  yet  to  be  found,  and  also  the  remains  of  a  former  dense  population. 
The  sides  of  the  hills,  in  many  places,  as  in  Chili  and  Peru,  are  cut  into 
terraces ;  but  over  those  plains  and  terraces  is  spread  a  wil  d  growth  of 
mimosas,  cactus,  and  acacias,  while  a  thousand  flowering  parasite-plants 
trail  their  gaudy  blossoms  among  the  aloes  and  shrubbery  which  fill  up 
the  rents  of  time  and  neglect  in  the  dilapidated  buildings.  It  is  the  picture 
of  a  beauty,  prematurely  old,  tricked  out  in  all  the  fanciful  finery  of 
youth ! 

We  wound  along  among  these  silent  hills  until  about  ten  o'clock,  when 
a  rapid  descent  brought  us  to  the  National  Bridge,  built  by  the  old  Span- 
ish Government,  and  enjoying  then  the  sounding  title  of  Puente  del  Rey. 
Changed  in  name,  it  has  not,  however,  changed  in  massive  strength,  or 
beauty  of  surrounding  scenery.  Indeed,  the  neglect  of  cultivation,  has 
permitted  Nature  to  regain  her  power ;  and  the  features  of  the  scenery  are 
therefore  more  like  those  of  some  of  the  romantic  ravines  of  Italy,  where 
the  remains  of  architecture  and  the  luxuriant  products  of  the  soil  are 
blent  in  wild  and  romantic  beauty. 

The  Puente  National  spans  the  river  Antigua,  which  passes  over  a 
rocky  bed  in  a  deep  dell  of  high  and  perpendicular  rocks.  The  adjacent 
heights  of  this  mountain  pass  have  been  strongly  fortified  during  the  wars ; 
among  their  fastnesses  and  defiles  the  revolutionary  generals  lay  con- 
cealed in  Iturbide's  time,  and  finally  descended  from  them  to  conclude 
the  fight  in  favor  of  independence. 

At  Puente,  there  is  a  village  containing  the  usual  number  of  comforta- 
ble cane  huts,  before  which  the  neighboring  Indians  had  spread  out  for 
sale  their  fruits  and  wares ;  while  the  Mexicans  (as  it  was  Sunday)  were 
amusing  themselves  by  gambling  at  monte  for  clacos.    At  the  inn  a  break- 


12  MEXICO. 

fast  of  eggs  and  frijoles  was  prepared  for  us.  The  eggs,  the  beans,  the 
bread,  and  a  bottle  of  tolerable  claret  went  down  famously,  with  the  sea-  . 
soning  of  our  mountain  appetites ;  but  I  cannot  say  as  much  for  the  stew 
of  mutton  and  fish  fresh  from  the  river.  What  with  onions,  and  lard,  and 
garlic,  and  chile  peppers,  I  never  tasted  such  a  mess.  We  unanimously 
resolved  to  leave  it  as  a  precious  bonne  louche  for  some  Spanish  succes- 
sors, to  whose  bowels  such  a  compound  may  be  more  savory  than  to  North 
Americans. 

Having  dispatched  this  collation,  we  again  mounted  the  diligence.  I 
had  seen  an  officer  in  command  of  some  cavalry  at  the  door  of  our  inn, 
and  recollecting  that  the  succeeding  post  is  represented  to  be  one  of  the 
most  dangerous  on  the  route,  I  told  our  Yankee  driver  that  I  thought  he 
might  as  well  take  my  order  for  the  escort,  and  a  bundle  of  cigars,  and 
try  their  effect  upon  the  military.  Whether  it  was  the  order  or  the  Prin- 
ciples I  am  unable  to  say,  but  four  dragoons  were  immediately  mounted 
for  our  service.  If  the  odor  of  that  offspring  of  the  "  Vuelta  de  Abajo" 
still  floats  in  the  memory  of  the  Lieutenant,  and  a  well-supplied  traveller 
happens  hereafter  to  pass  the  Puente  Nacionel  while  he  is  in  command, 
let  me  suggest  that  a  similar  gift  may  be  received  as  thankfully  and  ef- 
fectively. When  our  driver  cracked  his  whip,  and  the  horses  sprang  off 
from  the  lassos  of  the  grooms  at  full  gallop,  the  "  bold  dragoon  "  stood 
with  cap  in  hand,  and  I  could  catch  a  glimpse  of  a  head  bowing  most 
gracefully  in  the  midst  of  a  cloud  of  fragrant  smoke. 

Our  route  westward  to  Plan  del  Rio  was  through  a  mountainous  coun- 
try of  short  and  gradual  ascents,  in  most  of  its  characteristics  resembling 
the  one  we  had  passed  over  during  our  morning  ride.  At  length,  a  steep 
descent  over  a  road  as  smooth  as  a  bowling-green  brought  us  to  the  village 
of  Plan.  The  guard  trotted  after  us  leisurely ;  the  day  had  become 
cloudy  and  the  scenery  dreary,  and  the  fear  of  robbers  among  these  soli- 
tary wildernesses  again  came  over  us.  We  felt,  indeed,  more  anxiety 
than  since  our  departure. 

Mine  host  at  Plan  del  Rio  received  us  warmly,  though  his  house  was  as 
cold  and  uninviting  as  the  day.  He  speedily  produced  a  smoking  dinner 
of  fowls  and  rice,  to  which  I  found  myself  able  to  do  but  little  justice. 
But  the  dinner  had  been  served — we  had  tasted  it — a  bottle  of  claret  had 
been  drunk,  and  though  our  appetites  had  been  frugal,  the  nine  of  us  were 
obliged  to  pay  two  dollars  each  for  the  service  !  The  two  fowls  which 
made  the  stew,  cost,  at  the  most,  a  real  each  ;  the  rice  as  much,  the  salad 
grew  for  the  planting,  and  the  claret  stood  our  host  about  seventy-five  cents 
the  bottle:  so,  for  what,  with  service  and  cooking  and  original  cost,  taxed 
our  Padrone  not  more  than  three  dollars  at  the  extreme,  he  had  the  modest 
assurance  to  charge  our  coach-load  eighteen  !  If  this  statement  will  induce 
any  of  our  enterprising  Yankee  boys,  who  are  whittling  sticks  for  want 
of  knowing  how  to  turn  an  honest  penny,  to  come  oul  to  Plan  del  Rio  and 
set  up  an  "  Opposition  Stage-House,"  I  wish  them  joy  of  their  under- 
taking.    It  absolutely  requires,  as  I  have  shown,  no  capital  worth  men- 


TO     XALAPA.  13 

tioning,  besides  a  table,  a  dozen  chairs,  knives,  plates  and  forks,  a  few 
strings  of  Weathersfield  onions,  and  flexibility  of  limbs  and  countenance 
to  grace  the  thousand  shrugs,  apologies,  compliments,  humbug  and  grim- 
aces necessary  to  make  a  successful  innkeeper  in  a  Spanish  country. 

At  Plan  our  guard  left  us — as  the  lieutenant's  command  extended  no 
farther.  Our  host  of  the  flexible  face  and  productive  cookery,  insisted 
that  there  was  not  mucli  danger,  besides  which  there  were  no  troops  on  the 
station ;  so  he  bowed  us  to  the  coach  door,  and  declared  for  the  fiftieth 
time  that  he  had  been  delighted  to  see  us,  hoped  we  would  not  fail  to  call 
again  if  we  returned,  and  assured  us  that  he  only  kept  a  few  choice  bottles 
of  his  claret  for  such  "caballeros  "  as  we  were  ! 

What  with  sour  wine,  sour  spirits,  and  imposition,  I  doubt  much  if  there 
was  ever  an  angrier  coach-load  on  any  highway.  We  were  effectually 
ill-tempered,  and  we  looked  to  our  primings  with  the  full  disposition  to 
defend  ourselves  nobly.  It  would  have  fared  ill  with  any  one  who  had 
ventured  to  attack  us  during  our  first  hour's  ride.  In  addition  to  this,  our 
road,  as  soon  as  it  left  the  river,  ascended  rapidly  and  passed  over  a  track 
which  would  in  any  other  country  be  called  the  bed  of  a  mountain  stream, 
so  rough  and  jagged  was  its  surface.  Although  it  is  the  duty  of  the  Gov- 
ernment to  keep  this  highway  in  order,  yet  as  the  chief  travelling  is  on 
horseback,  and  the  principal  part  of  merchandise  is  transported  on  mules, 
no  one  cares  how  these  animals  get  along.  Sure-footed  and  slow,  they 
toil  patiently  among  the  rents  and  rocks,  and  their  drivers  are  too  well  used 
to  the  inconveniences  to  complain.  Besides  this,  in  case  of  insurrections, 
it  is  better  for  the  roads  to  be  in  bad  condition,  as  it  prevents  easy  com- 
munication between  the  several  parts  of  Mexico,  and  the  disjointed  stones 
serve  to  form,  as  they  have  often  done,  breastworks  and  forts  for  the  insur- 
gents. 

But  over  this  mass  of  ruin  we  were  obliged  to  jolt  in  the  ascent  of  the 
mountain,  during  the  whole  afternoon,  meeting  in  the  course  of  it  fifty 
wagons  laden  with  heavy  machinery  for  factories  near  Mexico. 

I  must  not  forget  to  mention  one  redeeming  spot  in  the  gloomy  even- 
ing. On  looking  back  as  we  were  near  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  I 
caught  a  glimpse  of  the  plains  and  hills  over  which  we  had  been  all  day 
toiling.  The  view  was  uninterrupted.  Before  us  lay  valley  upon  val- 
ley, in  one  long  graceful  descending  sweep  of  woodland  and  meadow, 
until  they  dwindled  away  in  the  sands  to  the  east,  and  the  whole  was 
blent,  near  the  horizon,  with  the  blue  waves  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Just 
then  the  sun  broke  out  from  the  region  of  clouds  which  we  were  rapidly 
approaching  in  our  ascent,  and  gilding,  for  a  moment,  the  whole  lowland 
prospect,  I  could  almost  fancy  I  saw  the  sparkle  of  the  wave  crests  as 
they  broke  on  the  distant  and  barren  shore. 

At  the  village  on  the  mountain  we  could  get  no  guard.  This  is  said 
to  be  a  very  dangerous  pass ;  but  the  commanding  officer  told  us  he  had 
been  stationed  here  for  two  weeks,  during  which  he  had  scoured  the  moun- 
tains in  every  direction,  and  believed  his  district  to  be  free  from  robbers. 


14  MEXICO. 

Cigars  would  not  avail  us  this  time  !  His  men  were  tired  and  he  could 
give  no  escort. 

Night  soon  fell  dark  and  coldly  around  us.  In  these  elevated  regions 
the  air  is  cold  and  nipping  ;  but  we  dared  not  put  down  our  coach  cur- 
tains for  fear  of  an  attack.  We  therefore  donned  our  cloaks  and  over- 
coats, and  laid  our  guns  and  pistols  on  the  window-frames.  John,  the  old 
gray  hero,  was  on  the  look-out,  with  his  blunderbuss,  from  the  box,  and 
the  driver  promised  to  have  an  eye  to  windward. 

Thus  we  jolted  on  again,  at  times  almost  stalled,  and,  in  sudden  smooth 
descents,  swinging  along  with  a  rapidity  in  the  dark  and  moonless  night, 
that  seemed  to  threaten  our  destruction  among  the  rocks.  Six,  seven, 
eight,  and  half-past  eight  o'clock  passed,  and  no  robbers  appeared,  though 
there  had  been  several  false  alarms.  The  road  became  worse  and  worse, 
the  coach  heaving  over  the  stones  like  a  ship  in  a  head  sea,  and  the  dri- 
ver being  obliged  to  descend  from  his  seat  and  feel  for  the  track.  We 
saw  lights  passing  over  the  heath  in  many  places,  and  it  was  surmised 
they  might  be  the  signal  lights  of  robbers.  After  due  consultation,  it 
was  determined  that  they  were  !  As  we  approached  them  they  proved  to 
be  fire-flies !  We  felt  for  our  percussion-caps  and  found  them  all  right, 
and,  at  that  moment,  the  coach  was  brought  to  a  dead  halt  in  the  blackest 
looking  ravine  imaginable. 

"  A  mighty  bad  road,  sir,"  said  John,  from  the  box,  cocking  his  blun- 
derbuss. Its  click  was  ominous,  and  we  were  at  once  on  the  alert. 
"  There  is  something  black — on  horseback — just  ahead  of  us,"  added  he. 
A  whistle  among  the  bushes.  Crack  went  the  whip  unmercifully  over 
the  mules,  and  at  ten  paces  in  advance,  up  rose  "  the  something  black," 
and  away  trotted  three  cows  ! 

I  confess  to  a  little  anxiety  as  I  cocked  my  gun  after  John  spoke  of 
the  "  something  black."  It  is  enough  to  make  one  a  little  nervous,  boxed 
up  with  nine  in  a  coach,  on  a  dark  night,  on  a  bad  road,  to  be  shot  at  by 
"  something  black."  But  when  the  danger  turns  out  to  be  a  peaceful  cow, 
one  feels  quite  as  ridiculous  as  he  had  before  felt  nervous.  As  we  had 
indulged  in  enough  of  that  sort  of  excitement,  I  uncocked  my  gun,  put 
the  muzzle  out  of  the  window,  and,  keeping  a  finger  on  the  trigger,  re- 
signed myself  to  a  nap  in  the  corner. 

Jolts,  pitches,  tosses,  nothing,  woke  me,  until  a  rough  voice  bellowed 
in  my  ear  :  "  There  they  are  !"  I  was  aroused  in  a  moment,  and  moving 
my  thumb  to  cock  my  gun,  I  found  myself  disarmed.  The  coach  was 
at  a  halt,  and  strange  voices  and  lights  were  around  it. 

It  was  a  minute  before  I  could  shake  off  the  oppression  of  my  deep 
slumber  and  found  that  my  neighbor  had  quietly  pilfered  my  gun  during 
my  sleep,  and  that  we  were  waiting  while  the  guard  at  the  garila  of  Xa- 
lapa  examined  our  way-bill ! 

In  a  few  moments  we  were  again  en  route,  and  at  half-past  nine  rolled  into 
the  court-yard  of  an  excellent  inn  at  Xalapa,  where  a  good  meal  that  served 
both  for  dinner  and  supper,  seasoned  the  joke  of  my  dextrous  robbery. 


LETTER    IV. 


XALAPA    AND    PEROTE. 


When  the  Neapolitans  speak  to  you  of  their  beautiful  city,  they  call 
it,  "  a  piece  of  heaven  fallen  to  earth  ;"*  and  tell  you  to  "  see  Naples 
and  die  /" 

It  is  only  because  so  few  travellers  extend  their  journey  to  Xalapa  and 
describe  its  scenery,  that  it  has  not  received  something  of  the  same  ex- 
travagant eulogium.  I  regret  exceedingly  that  my  stay  was  so  limited 
as  not  to  allow  an  opportunity  of  beholding  the  beautiful  views  around 
the  city,  under  the  influence  of  a  serene  sky  and  brilliant  sun. 

The  town  has  about  ten  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is,  in  every  respect, 
the  reverse  of  Vera  Cruz  ;  high,  healthy,  and  built  on  almost  precipitous 
streets,  winding,  with  curious  crookedness,  up  the  steep  hill-sides.  This 
perching  and  bird-like  architecture  makes  a  city  picturesque — although 
its  highways  may  be  toilsome  to  those  who  are  not  always  in  search  of 
the  romantic. 

The  houses  of  Xalapa  are  not  so  lofty  as  those  of  Vera  Cruz,  and  their 
exteriors  are  much  plainer ;  but  the  inside  of  the  dwellings,  I  am  told,  is 
furnished  and  decorated  in  the  most  tasteful  manner.  The  hotel  in  which 
we  lodged  was  an  evidence  of  this  ;  its  walls  and  ceilings  were  papered 
and  painted  in  a  style  of  splendor  rarely  seen  out  of  Paris. 

Before  breakfast  we  strolled  to  the  Convent  of  St.  Francisco,  an  im- 
mense pile  of  buildings  of  massive  masonry,  and  apparently  bomb-proof. 
The  church  is  exceedingly  plain,  but  there  is  a  neat  and  tasteful  garden 
with  a  lofty  wall.  This  convent  also  possesses  a  court-yard  of  about  one 
hundred  feet  square,  with  an  arcade  of  two  stories,  the  upper  part  of 
which  contains  a  series  of  spacious  cells ;  but  the  whole  edifice  has  a 
ruined  appearance,  having  once  been  converted  into  a  cavalry  barrack, 
where  the  bugle  as  often  sounded  the  morning  call  as  the  bell  summoned 
to  matins. 

From  the  top  of  this  conventual  edifice  there  is  a  fine  view  of  Xalapa 
and  its  vicinity.  We  could  see  the  town  straggling  up  its  steep  and 
irregular  streets  ;  but  much  of  the  adjacent  scenery,  and  especially  those 
two  grand  objects  in  the  descriptions  of  all  travellers,  the  Peak  of  Ori- 
zaba and  the  Coffre  of  Perote,  were  entirely  obscured  by  a  cloud  of 
mist  which  hung  around  the  valley  in  a  silvery  ring,  inclosing  the  ver- 

*  "  Un  pezio  de  cielo  cadulo  in  terra.'- 


16  MEXICO. 

dure  of  the  glade  like  an  emerald.  The  vapor,  rising  from  the  sea, 
driven  inland' by  the  northern  winds,  here  first  strikes  the  mountains  ;  and, 
lodging  in  rain  and  mist  and  dew  among  the  cliffs,  preserves  that  peren- 
nial green  which  covers  this  teeming  region  with  constant  freshness  and 
luxuriance.  Xalapa  is  consequently  a  "damp  town,"  yet  it  enjoys  a 
great  reputation  for  its  salubrity.  It  is  now  the  best  season  of  the  year ; 
but  scarcely  a  day  passes  without  rain,  while  the  thermometer  ranges 
from  52°  to  76°,  according  to  the  state  of  the  clouds  and  winds.  As 
soon  as  the  mountains  have  discharged  their  vapors,  the  sun  blazes  forth 
with  a  fierceness  and  intensity,  increased  by  the  reflection  from  every 
hill,  into  the  town,  as  to  a  focus. 

Yet  I  saw  enough  to  justify  all  the  praises  even  of  extravagant  admirers. 
Its  society  is  said  to  be  excellent,  and  its  women  are  the  theme  of  the 
poets  throughout  the  republic.  As  I  descended  from  the  top  of  St.  Fran- 
cisco and  wended  my  way  to  the  hotel,  I  met  numbers  of  the  fair  donzellas 
lounging  homeward  from  early  mass.  The  stately  step,  the  liquid  eye, 
the  pale  yet  brilliant  cheek,  and  an  indescribable  look  of  tenderness,  com- 
plete a  picture  of  beauty  rarely  matched  in  northern  climes,  and  else- 
where unequalled  in  Mexico. 

After  dispatching  our  breakfast,  for  which  we  paid  (together  with  our 
night's  lodging  and  dinner)  the  sum  of  four  dollars,  we  mounted  the  dili- 
gence at  10  o'clock,  prepared  as  usual  for  the  robbers,  and  set  out  for 
Perote. 

In  driving  from  the  town  we  passed  through  the  public  square  ;  and  in 
the  market  which  is  held  there  I  first  saw  in  perfection  the  profuse  quan- 
tity of  tropical  fruits  (and  especially  the  cldrimoya,  and  granadita,)  for  which 
Xalapa  is  renowned.  The  market  is  supplied  by  the  numerous  small 
cultivators  from  the  neighborhood,  the  females  of  whom  bear  a  resem- 
blance to  our  Northern  Indians,  which  is  perhaps  even  stranger  and  more 
remarkable  than  that  of  the  men. 

Maiz,  the  great  staff  of  life  for  biped  and  quadruped  in  our  western 
world,  is  chiefly  used  in  the  tortillia  cakes  of  which  we  hear  so  much  from 
Mexican  travellers. 

The  sellers  of  these  tough,  buckskin  victuals,  sit  in  lines  along  the  curb 
of  the  side-walks  with  their  fresh  cakes  in  baskets  covered  with  clean 
napkins  to  preserve  their  warmth.  There  they  wait  patiently  for  pur- 
chasers ;  and  as  torlillias,  with  a  little  cliitt,  or,  red  pepper  boiled  in  lard, 
are  indispensable  at  least  twice  a  day  for  the  mass  of  the  people,  they  are 
quite  sure  of  a  ready  sale. 

With  the  great  mass  of  Mexicans  there  is  no  such  thing  as  domestic 
cookery.  The  laborer  sallies  forth  with  his  clacos  in  his  pocket,  and  two 
or  three  of  them  will  purchase  his  cakes  from  an  Indian  woman.  A  few 
steps  further  on,  another  Indian  woman  has  a  pan  boiling  over  a  portable 
furnace,  and  containing  the  required  beans  or  chile.  The  hungry  man 
squats  down  beside  the  seller — makes  a  breakfast  or  dinner  table  of  his 
knees — holds  out  his  lorlillia  spread  flat  on  his  hand  for  a  ladle  of  chile 


LABORER    AT    DINNER, 


17 


MAKING     TORTILLIAS. 


and  a  lump  of  meat — then  doubles  up  the-  edges  of  the  cake  sandwich 
fashion,  and  so  on  until  his  appetite  is  satisfied.  He  who  is  better  off  in 
the  world,  or  indulges  occasionally  in  a  little  extravagance,  owns  a  clatf 
platter.  Into  this  he  causes  his  frijoles,  or  chiU  and  meat,  to  be  thrown, 
and  making  a  spoon  of  his  tortillia,  gradually  gets  possession  of  his  food$ 
and  terminates  his  repast  by  eating  the  spoon  itself!  There  is  great 
economy  in  this  mode  of  housekeeping  which  recommends  itself,  espe- 
cially, to  the  tastes  of  old  bachelors.  There  are  no  dishes  to  be  washed 
— >no  silver  to  be  cleaned,  or  cared  for.  Your  Indian — flings  down  his 
clacos— stretches  himself  to  his  full  height — gives  a  valedictory  grunt  of 
satisfaction  over  a  filled  stomach — and  is  off  to  his  labor. 

Thus  wonderful  is  the  frugality  not  only  of  the  humbler  classes,  butj 
indeed,  of  almost  all  who  have  come  under  my  observation  in  Spanish 
America.  Whether  this  frugality  is  a  virtue,  or  the  result  of  indolence, 
it"  is  not  necessary  for  me  to  stop  to  inquire.  The  reader  may  draw  his 
own  conclusions.  But  all  classes  are  content  with  less  physical  comfort 
than  the  inhabitants  of  other  countries.  Their  diet  is  poor,  their  lodging 
miserable,  their  clothing  coarse,  inelegant  and  inadequate  for  the  climate  ; 
and  yet,  when  the  energies  and  intelligence  of  the  Very  "people  who  seem 
so  supine  are  called  into  action,  few  men  manifest  those  qualities  in  a 
higher  degree.  Let  me,  as  an  illustration,  notice  the  Arrierqs,  or  com-* 
mon  carriers  of  the  country,  by  whom  almost  all  the  transportation  of  the 
2 


18  MEXICO. 

most  valuable  merchandise  and  precious  metals  is  conducted.  They 
form  a  very  large  proportion  of  the  population,  yet,  by  no  similar  class 
elsewhere  are  they  exceeded  in  devoted  honesty,  punctuality,  patient 
endurance,  and  skillful  execution  of  duty.  Nor  is  this  the  less  remarka- 
ble when  we  recollect  the  country  through  which  they  travel — its  disturbed 
state — and  the  opportunities  consequently  afforded  for  transgression.  I 
have  never  been  more  struck  with  the  folly  of  judging  of  men  by  mere 
dress  and  physiognomy,  than  in  looking  at  the  Arrieros.  A  man  with 
wild  and  fierce  eyes,  tangled  hair,  slashed  trowsers,  and  well  greased 
jerkin  that  has  breasted  many  a  storm — a  person,  in  fact,  to  whom  you 
would  scarcely  trust  an  old  coat  when  sending  it  to  your  tailor  for 
repairs — is  frequently  in  Mexico,  the  guardian  of  the  fortunes  of  the 
wealthiest  men  for  months,  on  toilsome  journies  among  the  mountains  and 
defiles  of  the  inner  land.  He  has  a  multitude  of  dangers  and  difficulties 
to  contend  with.  He  overcomes  them  all — is  never  robbed  and  never 
robs — and,  at  the  appointed  day,  comes  to  your  door  with  a  respectful 
salutation,  and  tells  you  that  your  wares  or  monies  have  passed  the  city 
gates.  Yet  this  person  is  often  poor,  bondless  and  unsecured — with  noth- 
ing but  his  fair  name  and  unbroken  word.  When  you  ask  him  if  you 
may  rely  on  his  people,  he  will  return  your  look  with  a  surprised  glance, 
and  striking  his  breast,  and  nodding  his  head  with  a  proud  contempt  that 
his  honor  should  be  questioned,  exclaim :  :'  Soy  Jose  Maria,  Seiior,  por 
veinte  annos  Arriero  de  Mexico — todo  el  mundo  me  conosce  f" 

"  I  am  Jose  Maria,  sir,  I  'd  have  you  know — an  Arriero  of  Mexico  for 
twenty  years — all  the  world  knows  me!" 

I  regret,  that  1  have  been  able  to  give  only  the  faintest  pencilling 
outline  of  Jalapa,  which,  with  all  its  beauty,  has  doubtless  hitherto  been 
associated  most  nauseously  in  your  mind  with  the  drug  growing  in  the 
neighborhood  to  which  it  has  given  its  name.* 

A  beautiful  scene,  embracing  nearly  the  whole  of  this  little  Eden, 
broke  on  me  as  we  gained  the  summit  of  the  last  hill  above  the  town.  A 
dell,  deep,  precipitous,  and  green  as  if  mossed  from  the  margin  of  a  wood- 
land spring  lay  below  me,  hung  on  every  side  with  orange  trees  in  bloom 
and  bearing,  nodding  palms  and  roses  and  acacias  scenting  the  air  with 
their  fragrance,  and  peering  out  among  the  white  walls  of  dwellings,  con- 
vents, and  steeples.  In  the  next  quarter  of  an  hour,  the  mists  that  had 
been  gathering  around  the  mountains,  whirled  down  on  the  peaks  along 
which  we  were  travelling,  and  as  the  wind  occasionally  drifted  the  vapor 
away,  we  could  see  around  us  nothing  but  wild  plains  and  mountain 
spurs  covered  with  volcanic  debris,  flung  into  a  thousand  fantastic  forms, 
among  which  grew  a  hardy  race  of  melancholy-looking  pines,  interspersed 

*To  give  you  an  idea  of  the  profusion  of  fruit  in  Jalapa  1  will  state  a  fact.  I  gave  a  French  servant  a  real 
'twelve  and  a  half  cents)  to  purcha.se  me  a  few  oranges,  und  in  a  short  time  he  returned  with  a  handkerchief 
bursting  under  the  load— he  had  received  forty  for  the  money. 

I  told  the  story  too  Jalapeniun  with  surprise  :  "They  cheated  him,"  said  lie;  "they  should  have  given  him 
cearly  double  the  number." 


SB      S5»  '  x^jfi^ 


PLAIN    OF    PEROTE.  19 

with  fallen  trunks,  aloes  and  agaves.  Thus  the  road  gradually  as- 
cended among  desolation,  until  we  reached  a  height  where  the  clouds 
were  lodged  on  the  mountain  tops,  and  a  cold,  drizzling  rain  filled  the  air4 
In  this  disagreeable  manner,  travelling  among  the  clouds,  we  reached 
the  village  of  St.  Michel,  and  afterward  La  Hoya,  over  a  road  paved 
with  basalt.  From  the  latter  place  the  scenery  is  described  as  magnify 
cent  when  the  day  is  clear,  and  the  sun  is  out  in  its  brilliancy.  The 
vapor  is  said  to  be  then  spread  out  below  you  like  a  sea,  and  the  mouru 
tain  tops  and  little  eminences  peer  above  it  like  so  many  islands. 

We  passed  through  the  village  of  "  Las  Vigas,"  described  by  Humboldt j 
as  the  highest  point  on  the  road  to  Mexico.  The  houses  in  this  neighbor- 
hood are  of  different  construction  from  those  below  the  mountains,  and 
are  built  of  pine  logs,  each  tree  furnishing  but  one  piece  of  timber  of  four 
inches  thickness,  and  the  whole  width  of  its  diameter ;  these  are  hewn 
with  the  axe,  and  closely  fitted.  The  floors  of  the  dwellings  are  laid  with 
the  same  material,  and  the  roofs  are  shingled.  As  the  houses  indicate  a 
colder  climate  than  the  one  through  which  we  nave  recently  travelled,  so 
does  also  the  appearance  of  the  people,  who  are  hardier  and  more  robust 
than  the  inhabitants  of  the  plains  skirting  the  sea. 

After  winding  along  the  edge  of  the  mountain  for  some  hours,  we  ob- 
tained an  occasional  view  of  the  plain  of  Perote,  level  as  the  ocean,  and 
bounded  by  the  distant  mountains.  The  Peak  of  Orizaba  again  appeared 
in  the  southeast,  while  the  Coffre  of  Perote  towered  immediately  on  our  leflj 
and,  seemingly  in  the  midst  of  the  plain,  rose  the  Peak  of  Tepiacualca. 
Beyond  it.  on  the  remotest  horizon,  was  sketched  the  outline  of  the  snow- 
capped mountains.  All  these  plains  have  doubtless  been  the  basins  of 
former  lakes ;  but  they  now  appear  dry  and  arid,  and  it  is  not  easy  to 
distinguish  how  far  they  are  cultivated  at  the  suitable  season.  During 
the  summer,  they  present  a  very  different  prospect,  and,  losing  the  guise 
of  a  waste  moor,  only  fit  for  the  sportsman,  put  on  a  lively  livery  of  cul- 
tivation and  improvement,  far  more  agreeable  than  the  dark  and  thorny 
maguey  and  the  wilted  foliage  of  dwarfish  trees,  with  which  they  are  now 
mostly  covered.  We  occasionally  see  the  stubble  of  last  year,  but  the 
chief  agriculture  is  evidently  carried  on  upon  the  slopes  and  rising  ground, 
where  the  irrigation  is  more  easy  from  the  adjacent  mountains  and  is  not 
so  rapidly  absorbed  as  in  the  marshy  flats. 

We  had  not  travelled  this  road  without  our  usual  dread  of  thieves. 
Our  guns  were  constantly  prepared  for  attack,  and  we  kept  a  wary  watch3 
although  during  nearly  the  whole  day  we  were  accompanied  by  a  party 
of  lancers,  who  clattered  along  after  us  on  nimble  horses.  Some  leagues 
from  Perote  we  approached  the  "  Barranca  Secca,"  a  noted  haunt  of  the 
ladrones  ;  and  as  we  came  within  gunshot  of  the  place,  a  band  of  horse- 
men dashed  out  from  the  ruins  of  an  old  hacienda  on  our  right  and  gal- 
loped directly  to  the  carriage.  The  mist  had  again  come  down  in  heavy 
wreaths  around  us,  obscuring  the  prospect  at  a  dozen  yards  distance  j 
and  the  guard  of  troopers  had  fallen  considerably  in  the  rear.  What 
2* 


20  MEXICO. 

with  the  fog  and  the  dread  of  our  foes,  we  were  somewhat  startled — 
cocked  our  weapons — ordered  the  coach  to  stop — and  were  half  out  of  it, 
when  the  lancers  reined  up  at  full  tilt,  and  after  a  parley  with  the  new 
comers,  assured  us  that  they  were  only  an  additional  troop  kept  here  for 
security.  I  questioned,  and  still  doubt  the  truth  of  this  story,  as  I  never 
saw  a  more  uncouth,  or  better  mounted,  armed  and  equipped  set  of  men. 
Their  pistols,  sabres,  and  carbines  were  in  the  best  order,  and  their  horses 
stanch  and  fleet ;  but  they  may  have  composed  a  band  of  old  well-known 
robbers,  pensioned  off  by  the  Government  as  a  guard ;  and  willing  to  take 
regular  pay  from  the  authorities,  and  gratuities  from  travellers,  as  less 
dangerous  than  uncertain  booty  with  constant  risk  of  life. 

Accompanied  by  these  six  suspicious  rascals  and  the  four  lancers,  we 
quickly  passed  the  wild  mist-covered  moor,  and  entered  the  Barranca,  a 
deep  fissure  worn  by  time  and  water  into  the  plain,  and  overhung,  on  all 
sides  by  lofty  trees,  while  the  adjacent  parts  of  the  flat  country  are  cut 
up  into  similar  ravines,  embowered  with  foliage.  With  all  the  aids  of 
art,  the  thieves  could  not  have  constructed  a  more  suitable  covert ;  and, 
to  add  to  our  dismay,  soon  after  entering  the  Barranca,  our  coach  broke 
down ! 

We  tramped  about  in  the  mud  while  the  accident  was  repairing,  and 
the  guard  and  its  auxiliaries  scoured  the  pass.  The  quarter  of  a  mile 
through  which  the  ravine  extended  was  literally  lined  with  crosses,  mark- 
ing the  spot  of  some  murder  or  violent  death.  These  four  or  five  hundred 
mementos  mori,  seemed  to  convert  it  into  a  perfect  graveyard ;  while  the 
broken  coach,  the  dreary  day,  shrouding  mist,  approaching  night,  and 
savage  figures  in  the  scene,  made  a  picture  more  fit  for  a  Trappist  than 
a  quiet  traveller  fonder  of  his  ease  than  adventure. 

We  were,  however,  soon  again  in  our  vehicle,  and  for  an  hour  after- 
ward the  country  gradually  ascended,  until,  at  sunset,  the  sky  cleared  off* 
and  we  entered  Perote  by  a  brilliant  starlight. 

Perote  is  a  small  town,  containing  not  more  than  2500  people.  It  is 
irregularly  built ;  the  houses  are  only  of  one  low  and  dark  story,  erected 
around  large  court-yards  with  the  strength  of  castles.  In  the  middle  of 
the  town  there  is  a  large  square,  abundantly  supplied  by  fountains  of  pure 
water  from  the  neighboring  hills. 

The  Meson  is  at  the  further  end  of  the  town,  and  incloses  a  spacious 
court-yard,  around  which  on  the  ground  floor  (which  is  the  only  floor)  are 
a  number  of  brick-paved,  windowless  stalls,  furnished  with  a  bed,  a  couple 
of  chairs,  and  a  table.  No  landlord  made  his  appearance  to  welcome 
us.     We  waited  a  considerable  time  in  the  court-yard  for  his  attendance  ; 

but  as  we  received  no  invitation,  S and  myself  got  possession  of  a 

consumptive-looking  candle,  and  sallied  out  to  hunt  for  lodgings.  We 
took  possession  of  one  of  the  dens  I  have  described  and  sent  in  our  lug- 
gage ;  and  carefully  locking  the  door  afterward,  (as  Perote  is  the  head- 
quarters of  villainy,  and  the  court-yard  was  full  of  unshaved,  ill-looking 
devils  wrapped  up  in  blankets,)  we  left  our  thin  tallow  as  evidence  of  our 
tenure. 


PER  0  TE,  21 

On  one  side  of  the  gateway  is  the  fonda,  or  eating  part  of  the  establish- 
ment, where  two  or  three  women  were  employed  cooking  sundry  strange 
looking  messes.  We  signified  our  hunger,  and  were  soon  called  to  table. 
Several  officers  of  the  garrison,  as  well  as  the  stage-load  coming  from 
Mexico,  were  there  before  us.  The  cooking  had  been  done  with  char- 
coal, over  furnaces,  and  the  color  of  the  cooks,  their  clothes,  the  food, 
and  the  hearth  was  identical ;  a  warning,  as  in  France,  never  to  enter  the 
kitchen  before  meals.  The  meats  had  been  good,  but  were  perfectly  be- 
devilled by  the  culinary  imps.  Garlic,  onions,  grease,  chile,  and  God 
knows  what  of  other  nasty  compounds,  had  flavored  the  food  like  nothing 
else  in  the  world  but  Perote  cookery.  We  tasted,  however,  of  every  dish, 
and  that  taste  answered  to  allay  appetite  if  not  to  assuage  hunger ;  espe- 
cially as  the  table-cloth  had  served  many  a  wayfarer  since  its  last  wash- 
ing, (if  it  had  ever  been  washed,)  and  had,  besides,  doubtless  been  used 
for  duster,  (if  they  ever  dust.)  The  waiter,  too,  was  a  boy,  in  sooty  rags, 
who  hardly  knew  the  meaning  of  a  plate,  and  had  never  heard  of  other 
forks  but  his  fingers. 

Disgusted,  as  you  may  well  suppose  we  were  with  this  supper,  I  did 
not  remain  long  at  table.  We  were  a  set  of  baulked,  hungry  men,  and 
withal,  tired  and  peevish.     I  put  my  face  for  a  moment  outside  of  the  gate, 

to  take  a  walk,  as  the  night  was  beautiful;  but'S pulled  me  back 

again,  with  a  hint  at  the  notorious  reputation  of  Perote.  It  was  not 
eight  o'clock,  but  the  town  was  already  still  as  death.  Its  population  had 
slunk  home  to  their  cheerless  dwellings,  and  the  streets  were  as  deserted 
as  those  of  Pompeii,  save  where  a  ragged  rascal  now  and  then  skulked 
along  in  the  shadow  of  the  houses,  buried  up  in  his  broad-brimmed  som- 
brero and  dirty  blanket. 

We  therefore  at  once  retired  to  our  cells ;  I  threw  myself  on  the  bed 
wrapped  in  my  cloak,  in  dread  of  a  vigorous  attack  from  the  fleas,  and 
slept  without  moving  until  the  driver  called  us  at  midnight  to  stai*t  for 
Puebla.  Being  already  dressed,  I  required  no  time  for  my  toilet,  and  I 
doubt  much  if  hair-brushes,  orris  tooth-powder,  or  the  sweet  savors  of  the 
Rue  Vivienne,  were  ever  thought  of  by  a  parting  guest  at  Perote  ! 

In  half  an  hour  we  were  once  more  in  the  coach  galloping  out  of  the 
town,  followed  by  three  dragoons  furnished  by  the  officer  we  had  met  at 
supper,  who  seemed  to  entertain  as  poor  an  opinion  as  we  did  of  this 
citadel  of  vagabondism. 

Although  the  sky  had  been  clear  and  the  stars  were  shining  brightly 
when  we  retired  to  bed,  a  mist  was  now  hanging  in  low  clouds  over  the 
plain.  The  road  was,  however,  smooth  and  level ;  and  we  scampered 
along  nimbly,  fear  adding  stings  to  our  coachman's  lash,  inasmuch  as  he 
was  the  driver  of  a  diligence  that  had  been  robbed  last  spring,  and  had 
received  a  ball  between  his  shoulders,  from  the  effects  of  which  he  had 
just  sufficiently  recovered  to  drive  on  his  first  trip  since  the  conflict. 
We  galloped  during  the  whole  night,  stopping  only  for  a  moment  to  change 
horses ;  nor  did  we  meet  a  living  thing  except  a  pack  of  jackals,  that 


22  MEXICO. 

Game  bounding  beside  the  coach  along  the  level  and  almost  trackless 
plain.  I  never  saw  half  so  frightened  a  man  as  our  coachman,  especially 
when  we  passed  the  spot  where  he  had  been  wounded.  Every  shrub  was 
a  robber — and  a  maguey  of  decent  size  was  a  whole  troop ! 

The  early  morning,  from  the  rain  which  had  fallen  during  the  night 
on  this  portion  of  the  plain,  was  as  cold  and  raw  as  November  at  home  ; 
nor  was  it  until  an  hour  after  sunrise  that  the  mists  peeled  off  from  the 
lowlands,  and,  folding  themselves  around  the  distant  hills,  revealed  a 
prospect  as  bare  and  dreary  as  the  Campagna  of  Rome. 


LETTER    V. 


CITY    OF    PTJEBLA. 


I  shall  say  nothing  more  of  our  journey  from  Perote  to  Puebla,  or  of 
the  several  uninteresting  villages  through  which  we  passed.  The  road 
led  among  deep  gullies,  and  was  exceedingly  dusty  on  the  plains.  The 
towns  were  usually  built  of  the  common  adobes,  or  sun-dried  bricks  of 
the  country,  and  neither  in  their  architectural  appearance,  nor  in  the 
character  of  their  inhabitants,  offered  any  attractions  for  the  attention  of 
a  traveller.  It  was,  indeed,  a  tedious  and  uninteresting  drive  over  the 
solitary  moors,  and  I  have  seldom  been  more  gratified  at  the  termination  of 
a  day's  fatigue  than  I  was  when  we  entered  the  gateway  of  our  spacious 
and  comfortable  inn  at  Puebla.  In  addition  to  the  usual  discomforts  of 
the  road,  we  had  suffered  greatly  from  the  heat  during  the  two  or  three 
last  hours  of  our  ride,  and  were  annoyed  by  a  fine  dust,  which,  heated 
by  a  blazing  sun,  rolled  into  our  coach  from  every  side,  and  fell  like 
a  parching  powder  on  our  skins.  A  bath  was,  therefore,  indispensable 
before  the  dinner,  which  we  found  excellent  after  our  fare  of  the 
previous  night  at  Perote.  In  the  afternoon  I  paid  a  visit  to  the  governor, 
who  promised  an  escort  of  dragoons  for  the  rest  of  the  journey  to  the 
Capital ;  and  I  then  sallied  forth,  to  see  as  much  as  possible  of  this  really 
beautiful  city. 

My  recollections  of  Puebla  (comparing  it  now  with  Mexico)  are 
far  more  agreeable  than  those  of  the  Capital.  There  is  an  air  of  neat- 
ness and  tidiness  observable  everywhere.  The  streets  are  broad,  well 
paved  with  flat  stones,  and  have  a  washed  and  cleanly  look.  The 
crowd  of  people  is  far  less  than  in  the  Capital,  and  they  are  not  so  ragged 
and  miserable.  House  rents  are  one-half  or  one-third  those  of  Mexico, 
and  the  dwellings  are  usually  inhabited  by  one  family ;  but,  churches 
and  convents  seem  rather  more  plentiful  in  proportion  to  the  inhabitants. 
The  friars  are  less  numerous,  and  the  secular  clergy  greater. 

A  small  stream  skirts  the  eastern  side  of  Puebla,  affording  a  large 
water-power  for  manufacturing  purposes.  On  its  banks  a  public  walk 
has  been  planted  with  rows  of  trees,  among  which  the  paths  meander, 
while  a  neat  fountain  throws  up  its  waters  in  the  midst  of  them.  The 
views  from  this  retreat,  in  the  evening,  are  charmingly  picturesque  over 
the  eastern  plain. 

On  the  western  side  of  the  Puebla  lie  the  extensive  piles  of  buildings 
belonging  to  the  Convent  of  St.  Francis,  situated  opposite  the  entrance  of 


24  MEXICO. 

the  Alameda — a  quiet  and  retired  garden  walk  to  which  the  cavaliers  and 
donzellas  repair  before  sunset,  for  a  drive  in  view  of  the  volcanos  of  Ista- 
zihuatl  and  Popocatepetl,  which  bound  the  westward  prospect  with  their 
tops  of  eternal  snow.  Near  the  centre  of  the  city  is  the  great  square. 
It  is  surrounded  on  two  sides  by  edifices  erected  on  arches  through  which 
the  population  circulates  as  at  Bologna.  On  the  northern  side  is  the 
Palace  of  the  Governor,  now  filled  with  troops ;  and  directly  in  front  of  this 
is  the  Cathedral,  equal  perhaps  in  size  to  that  of  Mexico,  but,  being  eleva- 
ted upon  a  platform  about  ten  feet  above  the  level  of  the  square,  it  is  better 
relieved  and  stands  out  from  the  surrounding  buildings  with  more  bold- 
ness and  grandeur. 

This  church  is,  in  all  its  details  and  arrangements  the  most  magnifi- 
cent in  the  Republic ;  and  although  not  desirous  to  occupy  your  time  with 
a  description  of  religious  edifices,  yet,  with  a  view  of  affording  some  idea 
of  the  wealth  of  this  important  establishment  in  a  country  where  the  priest- 
hood is  still  very  powerful,  I  will  venture  to  remark  on  a  few  of  those  ob- 
jects that  strike  the  eye  of  a  transient  traveller. 

It  is  about  this  Cathedral,  I  am  told,  that  there  is  a  legend  of  Puebla, 
which  states  that  while  in  process  of  building,  it  gained  mysteriously  in 
height  during  the  night  as  much  as  the  masons  had  wrought  during  the 
day.  This  was  said  to  be  the  work  of  Angels,  and  hence,  the  city  has  ac- 
quired the  holy  name  of  "  Puebla  de  los  Angeles."  Be  this,  however,  as 
it  may,  the  church,  though  neither  exactly  worthy  of  divine  conception 
and  execution,  nor  a  miracle  of  art,  is  extremely  tasteful,  and  one  of  the 
best  specimens  of  architecture  I  saw  in  Mexico.  The  material  is  blue 
basalt ;  the  stones  are  squared  by  the  chisel ;  the  joints  neatly  pointed ; 
and  the  whole  has  the  appearance  of  great  solidity,  being  supported  by 
massive  buttresses,  and  terminated  at  the  west  by  lofty  towers  filled  with 
bells  of  sweet  and  varied  tones.  Between  the  towers  is  the  main  entrance, 
over  which  there  is  a  mass  of  sculpture  of  Scripture  history  in  stone  and 
moulded  work. 

Entering  by  this  portal,  the  edifice,  though  lofty  and  extensive,  has  its 
effect  greatly  marred  by  the  erections  over  the  crypt,  altar  and  choir, 
which  fill  the  building  to  near  its  arched  and  elevated  ceiling.  As  usual, 
the  church  is  divided  into  three  parts  by  rows  of  massive  columns.  Out. 
side  of  these,  under  lower  arches,  are  the  side  aisles,  and  in  the  wall  the 
lesser  chapels  are  imbedded,  as  it  were,  between  columns,  and  screened 
from  the  main  edifice  by  a  graceful  railing  and  fanciful  gates  of  wrought 
iron.  A  similar  rail  also  incloses  the  choir  and  other  portions  of  the  build- 
ing ;  and  the  whole,  painted  green,  is  picked  out  with  gilded  ornaments. 

From  the  centre  of  the  vast  dome  depends  the  great  chandelier — a 
weighty  mass  of  gold  and  silver.  It  weighs  tons.  The  sum  at  which  it  is 
valued  I  will  not  mention ;  but  you  may  judge  of  its  extent  and  price 
from  the  fact  that,  when  cleaned  thoroughly  some  years  ago,  the  cost  of 
itaipurification  alone  amounted  to  four  thousand  dollars  ! 

The  great  altar,  too,  is  a  striking  object.  It  was  erected  about  thirty 
years  ago  by  one  of  the  bishops  of  Puebla,  and  affords  the  greatest  display 


THE    CATHEDRAL.  25 

of  Mexican  marbles  in  the  Republic.  The  variety  of  colors  is  very  great, 
among  which  is  one  of  a  pure  and  brilliant  white,  as  transparent  as  ala- 
baster. The  rail  and  steps,  which,  of  course,  are  of  fine  marble,  lead  to 
a  circular  platform  eight  or  ten  feet  above  the  floor,  beneath  which  is  the 
sepulchre  of  the  bishops,  (constructed  entirely  of  the  most  precious  mate- 
rials,) divided  into  niches  and  panels,  and  covered  with  a  depressed  dome 
of  marble,  relieved  by  bronze  and  gold  circles,  from  the  centre  of  which 
depends  a  silver  lamp,  for- ever  burning  in  the  habitation  of  the  dead. 

To  the  right  of  the  altar  is  the  gem  of  the  building.  It  is  a  figure  of 
the  Virgin  Mary,  nigh  the  size  of  life.  Dressed  in  the  richest  embroi- 
dered satin,  she  displays  strings  of  the  largest  pearls  hanging  from  her 
neck  below  her  knees.  Around  her  brow  is  clasped  a  crown  of  gold, 
inlaid  with  emeralds  of  a  size  I  had  never  seen  before ;  and  her  waist  is 
bound  with  a  zone  of  diamonds,  from  the  centre  of  which  blaze  num- 
bers of  enormous  brilliants ! 

But  this  is  not  all.  The  candelabras  surrounding  the  platform  before 
the  altar,  are  of  silver  and  gold,  and  so  ponderous  that  a  strong  man  could 
neither  move  nor  lift  them.  Immediately  above  the  altar,  and  within  the 
columns  of  the  large  temple  erected  there,  is  a  smaller  one,  the  interior 
of  which  is  displayed  or  concealed  by  secret  machinery.  From  this  the 
Host,  amid  a  blaze  of  priceless  and  innumerable  jewels,  is  exhibited  to 
the  kneeling  multitude. 

The  principal  dome  is,  of  course,  in  the  centre  of  the  church  ;  and  oppo- 
site the  front  of  the  altar  is  the  choir,  remarkable,  principally,  for  the 
workmanship  and  preservation  of  the  richly  carved  woodwork  of  its 
stalls  for  the  canons  and  clergy.  Above  the  seat  of  the  bishop  is  a  pic- 
ture of  St.  Peter,  formed  by  the  inlaying  of  different  woods ;  yet  so  skil- 
fully is  this  work  of  art  executed,  that  at  a  short  distance  it  has  all  the 
effect  and  gracefulness  of  a  painting  in  oil.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that  the 
organ  is  rather  too  small  for  so  large  a  building,  and  that  the  rich  tone 
of  the  noble  instrument  is  therefore  greatly  lost  in  the  services  of  a  church 
where  the  effect  of  the  Catholic  rite,  amid  so  many  other  magnificent 
adjuncts,  would  be  greatly  enhanced  in  pomp  by  the  perfection  of  solemn 
music. 

It  was  too  obscure  to  see  the  pictures  which  are  said  to  be  worthy  of 
notice,  or  the  three  setts  of  valuable  jewels  of  the  bishop;  and  we  there- 
fore departed  at  dusk  from  this  mine  of  wealth  and  splendor. 

As  I  went  out  of  the  door  in  the  dim  twilight,  and  found  a  miserable 
and  ragged  woman  kneeling  before  the  image  of  a  saint,  and  heard  the 
hollow  sounding  of  her  breast  as  she  beat  it  with  penitential  fervor ;  I  could 
not  help  asking  myself,  if  the  church  that  subsisted  upon  alms,  in  order  to 
be  the  greatest  almoner  of  the  nation,  had  fulfilled  its  sacred  charge  while 
there  was  one  diamond  in  the  zone  of  the  Virgin,  or  one  homeless  and 
foodless  wretch  in  the  whole  Republic. 


LETTER   VI 


THE    PYRAMID    OF    CHOLULA. 


Three  leagues  westwardly  from  the  city  of  Puebla  lie  the  remains  of 
the  ancient  Indian  Pyramid  of  Choltjla,  and  you  reach  them  by  a  pleas- 
ant morning  ride  over  the  plain. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  relics  of  the  Aborigines  on  the  Con- 
tinent ;  for,  although  it  was  constructed  only  of  the  adobes,  or  common 
sun-dried  bricks,  it  still  remains  in  sufficient  distinctness  to  strike  every 
observer  with  wonder  at  the  enterprise  of  its  Indian  builders.  What  it 
was  intended  for,  whether  tomb  or  temple,  no  one  has  determined  with 
certainty,  though  the  wisest  antiquarians  have  been  guessing  since  the 
conquest.  In  the  midst  of  a  plain  the  Indians  erected  a  mountain.  The 
base  still  remains  to  give  us  its  dimensions ;  but  what  was  its  original 
height  1  Was  it  the  tomb  of  some  mighty  lord,  or  sovereign  prince  ;  or 
was  it  alone  a  place  of  sacrifice  ? 

Many  years  ago,  in  cutting  a  new  road  toward  Puebla  from  Mexico,  it 
became  necessary  to  cross  a  portion  of  the  base  of  this  pyramid.  The 
excavation  laid  bare  a  square  chamber,  built  of  stone,  the  roof  of  which 
was  sustained  by  cypress  beams.  In  it  were  found  some  idols  of  basalt, 
a  number  of  painted  vases,  and  the  remains  of  two  bodies.  No  care  was 
taken  of  these  relics  by  the  discoverers,  and  they  are  lost  to  us  for  ever. 

Approaching  the  pyramid  from  the  east,  it  appears  so  broken  and 
overgrown  with  trees  that  it  is  difficult  to  make  out  any  outline  distinctly. 
The  view  from  the  west,  however,  which  I  have  given  on  the  opposite 
page,  will  convey  to  you  some  idea  of  this  massive  monument  as  it  rises 
in  solitary  grandeur  from  the  midst  of  the  wide-spreading  plain.  A  well- 
paved  road,  cut  by  the  old  Spaniards,  ascends  from  the  northwest  corner, 
with  steps  at  regular  intervals,  obliquing  first  on  the  west  side  to  the  upper 
bench  of  the  terrace,  and  thence  returning  toward  the  same  side  until  it 
is  met  by  a  steep  flight  rising  to  the  front  of  the  small,  dome-crowned 
chapel,  surrounded  with  its  grove  of  cypress,  and  dedicated  to  the  Virgin 
of  Remcdios. 

The  summit  is  perfectly  level  and  protected  by  a  parapet  wall,  whence 
a  magnificent  view  extends  on  every  side  over  the  level  valley.  What- 
ever this  edifice  may  have  been,  the  idea  of  thus  attaining  permanently 
an  elevation  to  which  the  people  might  resort  for  prayer— or  even  for 
parade  or  amusement — was  a  sublime  conception,  and  entitles  the  men 
who  centuries  ago  patiently  erected  the  lofty  pyramid,  to  the  respect  of 


M 


ifiii'1 


PYRAMID    OF    CHOLULA.  27 

posterity.  If  his  ancestor  celebrated,  here,  a  bloody  sacrifice  of  victims 
taken  in  battle,  the  modern  Indian  may  purify  the  hill  from  the  crime  by 
the  celebration  of  a  peaceful  mass,  and  the  sermon  of  a  worthy  padre  ! 

There  remain  at  present  but  four  stories  of  the  Pyramid  of  Cholula, 
rising  above  each  other  and  connected  by  terraces.  These  stories  are 
formed,  as  I  before  said,  of  sun-dried  bricks,  interspersed  with  occasional 
layers  of  plaster  and  stone  work.  And  this  is  all  that  is  to  be  told  or 
described.  Old  as  it  is — interesting  as  it  is — examined  as  it  has  been  by 
antiquaries  of  all  countries — the  result  has  ever  been  the  same.  The 
Indians  tell  you  that  it  was  a  place  of  sepulture,  and  the  Mexicans  give 
you  the  universal  reply  of  ignorance  in  this  country :  "  Quien  Sabe  V — 
who  knows — who  can  tell ! 

To  those  who  are  interested  particularly  in  Mexican  antiquities  since 
the  recent  publications  of  Mr.  Stephens,  and  the  beautiful  drawings  of 
Mr.  Catherwood,  have  greatly  familiarized  almost  all  classes  with  the 
monuments  of  ancient  American  grandeur,  I  will  translate  some  of  the 
descriptive  remarks  of  the  Baron  Humboldt,  who  visited  these  ruins  near 
the  beginning  of  our  century. 

"  The  Pyramid  of  Cholula,"  says  he,  "  is  exactly  of  the  same  height 
as  that  of  Tonatiuh  Ytxaqual,  at  Teotthtjacan,"  (which  I  shall  describe 
hereafter.)  "  It  is  3  metres  higher  than  that  of  Mycerinus,  or  the  third 
of  the  great  Egyptian  pyramids  of  the  group  of  Djizeh.  Its  base,  how- 
ever, is  larger  than  that  of  any  pyramid  hitherto  discovered  by  travellers 
in  the  old  world,  and  is  double  of  that  known  as  the  Pyramid  of  Cheops. 

"  Those  who  wish  to  form  an  idea  of  the  immense  mass  of  this  Mexican 
monument  by  the  comparison  of  objects  best  known  to  them,  may  imagine 
a  square,  four  times  greater  than  that  of  the  Place  Vendome  in  Paris,  cov- 
ered with  layers  of  bricks  rising  to  twice  the  elevation  of  the  Louvre  !  Some 
persons  imagine  that  the  whole  of  the  edifice  is  not  artificial;  but  as  far 
as  explorations  have  been  made,  there  is  no  reason  to  doubt  that  it  is  en- 
tirely a  work  of  art.  In  its  present  state  (and  we  are  ignorant  of  its  per- 
fect original  height,)  its  perpendicular  proportion  is  to  its  base  as  8  to  13 
while  in  the  three  great  pyramids  of  Djizeh,  the  proportion  is  found  to  be 
l~o  to  lyg-  to  1 ;  or,  nearly,  as  8  to  5." 

May  not  this  have  been  but  the  base  of  some  mighty  temple  destroyed 
long  before  the  conquest,  and  of  which  even  the  tradition  no  longer  lin, 
gers  among  the  neighboring  Indians  ! 

In  order  to  afford  you  additional  means  of  comparison,  I  annex  the  fol- 
lowing table,  also  from  Humboldt,  of  the  relative  proportions  of  several 
well  known  pyramids. 

The  feet  are  pieds  du  roi  : 

PYRAMIDS    BUILT    OF    STONE.  PYRAMIDS    OF    BRICK. 


Cheops.  Cephren.  Mycerinus.  1  of  5  stories  in  Egypt  r-of  4  stories  in  Mexico^ 

near  Sakharah.  Teotihuacan.    Cholula. 
Height      448  feet.      398  feet.        162  feet.                150  feet.  171  feet.    172  f, 

Base.         728  655  580  210  645  1355 


28  MEXICO. 

In  continuation,  Humboldt  observes,  that  "  the  inhabitants  of  Auahuac 
apparently  designed  giving  the  Pyramid  of  Cholula  the  same  height,  and 
double  the  base  of  the  Pyramid  at  Teotihuacan,  and  that  the  Pyramid  of 
Asychis,  the  largest  known  of  the  Egyptians,  has  a  base  of  800  feet,  and 
is  like  that  of  Cholula,  built  of  brick.  The  cathedral  of  Strasburg  is  8 
feet,  and  the  cross  of  St.  Peters,  at  Rome,  41  feet,  lower  than  the  top  of 
the  Pyramid  of  Cheops.  Pyramids  exist  throughout  Mexico  ;  In  the  for- 
ests of  Papantla  at  a  short  distance  above  the  level  of  the  sea ;  on  the 
plains  of  Cholula  and  of  Teotihuacan,  at  the  elevations  which  exceed 
those  of  the  passes  of  the  Alps.  In  the  most  widely  distant  nations,  in 
climates  the  most  different,  man  seems  to  have  adopted  the  same  style  of 
construction  ;  the  same  ornaments,  the  same  customs  ;  and  to  have  placed 
himself  under  the  government  of  the  same  political  institutions !" 

Is  this  an  argument  that  all  men  have  sprung  only  from  one  stock  ?  or 
that  the  human  mind  is  the  same  everywhere,  and,  affected  by  similar 
interests  or  necessities  invariably  comes  to  the  same  result,  whether  in 
pointing  a  pyramid,  or  an  arrow ;  in  making  a  law,  or  a  ladle  ? 

Much  as  I  distrust  all  the  dark  and  groping  efforts  of  antiquarians,  I 
will  nevertheless  offer  you  some  sketches  and  legends,  which  may  serve, 
at  least,  to  base  a  conjecture  upon  as  to  the  divinity  to  whom  this  pyra- 
mid was  erected ;  and  to  prove,  perhaps,  that  it  was  intended  as  the 
foundation  of  a  temple,  and  not  the  covering  of  a  tomb. 

A  tradition  which  has  been  recorded  by  a  Dominican  monk  who  visited 
Cholula  in  1566,  is  thus  related  from  his  work,  by  the  traveller  to  whom 
I  have  already  referred  : 

"  Before  the  great  inundation,  which  took  place  4800  years  after  the 
creation  of  the  world,  the  country  of  Auahuac  was  inhabited  by  giants, 
all  of  whom  either  perished  in  the  inundation,  or  were  transformed  into 
fishes,  save  seven  who  fled  into  caverns. 

"  When  the  waters  subsided,  one  of  the  giants,  called  Xelhua,  surnamed 
"  the  Architect,"  went  to  Cholula,  where,  as  a  memorial  of  the  Tlaloc* 
which  had  served  for  an  asylum  to  himself  and  his  six  brethren,  he  built 
an  artificial  hill  in  the  form  of  a  pyramid.  He  ordered  bricks  to  be  made 
in  the  province  of  Tlalmanalco,  at  the  foot  of  the  Sierra  of  Cocotl,  and  in 
order  to  convey  them  to  Cholula,  he  placed  a  file  of  men  who  passed  them 
from  hand  to  hand.  The  gods  beheld,  with  wrath,  an  edifice  the  top 
of  which  was  to  reach  the  clouds.  Irritated  at  the  daring  attempt  of 
Xelhua,  they  hurled  fire  on  the  pyramid !  Numbers  of  the  workmen 
perished.  The  work  was  discontinued,  and  the  monument  was  after- 
ward dedicated  to  Quetzalcoatl." 

*  The  mountain  of  Tlaloc  lies  in  a  westerly  direction  from  the  Pyramid  of  Cholula,  about  thirty  miles.  It  was 
visited  last  year,  and  ascended  with  much  difficulty  by  Mr.  Ward  and  Mr.  Jamioson,  who  found,  upon  the 
very  summit,  the  remains  of  extensive  walls,  the  sides  of  which  were  due  north  and  south.  The  day  was  ex- 
ceedingly cold,  and.  suffering  from  the  keen  mountain  air,  they  were  unable  to  extend  their  explorations,  espe- 
cially as  they  were  not  prepared  either  with  the  necessary  tools,  or  to  spend  some  time  on  the  summit.  They 
dug,  however,  with  the  blades  of  their  swords  among  the  ruins,  and  found  a  number  of  small  images  and  heads 
of  clay,  similar  to  those  which  will  be  hereafter  described. 


CHOLULAN    MYTHOLOGY.  29 

Now  of  this  god  Quetzalcoatl,  we  have  the  following  story,  which  is 
given  by  Dr.  M'Culloh,  the  most  learned  and  laborious  of  writers  upon 
American  antiquities. 

"  Quetzalcoatl,  or  the  '  Feathered  Serpent,'  was  among  the  Mexi- 
cans, and  all  other  nations  of  Auahuac,  '  god  of  the  air.'  He  was 
said  to  have  been  once  high  priest  of  Tula.  They  figured  him  tall,  huge, 
of  a  fair  complexion,  broad  forehead,  large  eyes,  long  black  hair  and 
flowing  beard.  From  a  love  of  decency  he  wore  always  a  long  robe, 
which  was  represented  to  have  been  spotted  all  over  with  red  crosses. 
He  was  so  rich  that  he  had  palaces  of  gold,  silver,  and  precious  stones. 
He  was  thought  to  possess  the  greatest  industry,  and  to  have  invented  the 
art  of  melting  metals,  and  cutting  gems.  He  was  supposed  to  have  had 
the  most  profound  wisdom,  which  he  displayed  in  the  laws  he  left  to  man- 
kind, and,  above  all,  the  most  rigid  and  exemplary  manners.  Whenever 
he  intended  promulgating  a  law  to  his  kingdom,  he  ordered  a  crier  to  the 
top  of  the  mountain  Tzatzitepec,  or  '  hill  of  shouting  f  near  the  city  of 
Tula,  from  whence  his  voice  was  heard,  for  three  hundred  miles.  In  his 
time  the  corn  grew  so  strong  that  a  single  ear  was  a  load  foe.  a  man. 
Gotjeds  weee  as  long  as  A  man's  body.  It  was  unnecessary  to  dye 
cotton,  for  it  grew  of  all  colors  ;  all  their  fruits  were  in  the  same  abund- 
ance, and  of  an  extraordinary  size.  There  was  also  at  that  period,  an 
incredible  number  of  beautiful  and  sweet-singing  birds.  In  a  word,  the 
Mexicans  imagined  as  much  happiness  under  the  priesthood  of  Quetzal- 
coatl, as  the  Greeks  did  under  the  reign  of  Saturn,  whom  this  Mexican 
god  also  resembled  in  the  exile  he  suffered. 

"  Amid  all  this  prosperity  Tezcatlipoca,  their  supreme  but  visible  god, 
(we  know  not  for  what  reason,)  wishing  to  drive  him  from  Tula,  appeared 
to  him  in  the  form  of  an  aged  man,  and  told  him  it  was  the  will  of  the 
gods  that  he  should  be  taken  to  the  kingdom  of  Tlapalla.     At  the  same 
time  he  offered  him  a  beverage,  which  was  readily  accepted,  in  hopes  of 
obtaining  that  immortality  after  which  he  aspired.     He  no  sooner  drank 
it  than  he  felt  himself  so  strongly  tempted  to  go  to  Tlapalla,  that  he  set 
out  at  once,  accompanied  by  many  of  his  faithful  subjects.     Near  the 
city  of  Quauhtitlan,  he  felled  a  tree  with  stones,  which  remained  fixed 
in  the  trunk ;  and  at  Tlalnepautla  he  laid  his  hand  upon  a  stone  and  left 
an  impression  which  the  Mexicans  showed  to  the  Spaniards.     Upon  his 
arrival  at  Cholttla  the  citizens  detained  him,  and  made  him  take  the 
government  of  their  city.      He  showed  much  aversion  to  cruelty,  and 
could  not  bear  the  mention  of  war.     To  him,  the  Cholulans  say,  they 
owe  their  knowledge  of  melting  metals,  the  laws  by  which  they  were 
afterward  governed,  the  rites  and  ceremonies  of  their  religion,  and,  as 
some  say,  the  arrangement  of  their  seasons  and  calendar.     After  resi- 
ding for  20  years  in  Cholula,  he  resolved  to  pursue  his  journey  to  his 
imaginary  kingdom  of  Tlapalla,  carrying  along  with  him  four  noble  and 
virtuous  youths ;  but,  on  arriving  at  the  maritime  province  of  Coatzaco- 
alco,  he  dismissed  them,  and  desired  them  to  assure  the  Cholulans  that 


30  MEXICO. 

he  would  return  to  comfort  and  direct  them.  Some  said  that  he  suddenly 
disappeared,  others  that  he  died  on  the  sea-shore  ;  but  however  that  may 
be,  Quetzalcoatl  icas  consecrated  as  a  god  by  the  Toltecas  of  Cholula,  and 
made  chief  guardian  of  their  city,  in  the  centre  of  which,  in  honor  of 
him,  they  raised  a  great  eminence  on  which  they  built  a  temple.  Another 
eminence,  surmounted  by  a  temple,  was  afterward  erected  to  him  in 
Tula.  From  Cholula  his  worship  was  spread  over  the  country,  where  he 
was  adored  as  '  the  god  of  the  air.'  He  had  temples  in  Mexico  and 
elsewhere,  and  some  nations,  even  the  enemies  of  the  Cholulans,  had 
temples  and  priests  dedicated  to  his  worship  in  the  city  of  Cholula, 
whither  persons  came  from  all  parts  of  the  land  to  pay  their  devotions 
and  fulfil  their  vows.  His  festivals  were  great  and  extraordinary,  espe- 
cially in  Cholula. 

"  In  every  fourth,  or  divine  year,  they  were  preceded  by  a  rigid  fast 
of  eighty  days,  and  by  dreadful  austerities  practiced  by  the  priests  conse- 
crated to  his  worship.  The  Mexicans  said,  that  Quetzalcoatl  cleared  the 
way  for  the  '  god  of  the  water,'  because  in  these  countries  rain  is  gen- 
erally preceded  by  wind." 

The  following  singular  story  in  relation  to  this  divinity  and  certain 
services  of  his  temple,  is  to  be  found  in  the  Nat.  and  Mor.  Hist,  of 
Acosta,  book  v.  chap.  30. 

"  There  was  at  this  temple  of  Quetzalcoatl  at  Cholula,  a  court  of  rea- 
sonable greatness,  in  which  they  made  great  dances  and  pastimes  with 
games  and  comedies,  on  the  festival  days  of  this  idol ;  for  which  purpose 
there  was  in  the  midst  of  this  court  a  theatre  of  thirty  feet  square,  very 
finely  decked  and  trimmed — the  which  they  decked  with  flowers  that 
day — with  all  the  art  and  invention  that  might  be,  being  environed  around 
with  arches  of  divers  flowers  and*  feathers,  and  in  some  places  there 
were  tied  many  small  birds>  conies,  and  other  tame  beasts.  After  din- 
ner all  the  people  assembled  in  this  place,  and  the  players  presented 
themselves  and  played  comedies.  Some  counterfeited  the  deaf  and 
rheumatic ;  others  the  lame  ;  some  the  blind  and  crippled  which  came 
to  seek  for  cure  from  the  idol.  The  deaf  answered  confusedly ;  the 
rheumatic  coughed  ;  the  lame  halted,  telling  their  miseries  and  griefs, 
wherewith  they  made  the  people  to  laugh.  Others  came  forth  in  the  form 
of  little  beasts,  some  attired  like  snails,  others  like  toads,  and  some  like 
lizards ;  then  meeting  together  they  told  their  offices,  and  every  one  re- 
tiring to  his  place,  they  soufided  on  small  flutes,  which  was  pleasant  to 
hear.  They  likewise  counterfeited  butterflies  and  small  birds  of  divers 
colors,  which  were  represented  by  the  children  who  were  sent  to  the  tem- 
ple for  education.  Then  they  went  into  a  little  forest,  planted  there  for 
the  purpose,  whence  the  priests  of  the  temple  drew  them  forth  with  instru- 
ments of  music.  In  the  mean  time  they  used  many  pleasant  speeches, 
some  in  propounding,  others  in  defending,  wherewith  the  assistants  were 
pleasantly  entertained.  This  done,  they  made  a  masque,  or  mummery 
with  all  these  personages,  and  so  the  feast  ended." 


CHOLULAN     MYTHOLOGY, 


31 


From  these  traditions,  we  derive  several  important  facts.  First,  that 
Quetzalcoatl,  was  "  god  of  the  air  :"  Second,  that  he  was  represented  as 
a  "  feathered  serpent :"  Third,  that  he  was  the  great  divinity  of  the  Cho- 
lulans :  and,  Fourth,  that  a  hill  was  raised  by  them  upon  which  they 
erected  a  temple  to  his  glory,  where  they  celebrated  his  festivals  with 
pomp  and  splendor. 

Combining  all  these,  is  it  unreasonable  to  believe  that  the  Pyramid  of 
Cholula  was  the  base  of  this  temple,  and  that  he  was  there  worshipped  as 
the  Great  Spirit  of  the  air— or  of  the  seasons  ;  the  God  who  produced  the 
fruitfulness  of  the  earth,  regulated  the  sun,  the  wind  and  the  shower,  and 
thus  spread  plenty  over  the  land  ?  I  have  thought,  too,  that  the  serpent 
might  not  improbably  typify  lightning,  and  the  feathers,  swiftness  ;  thus 
denoting  one  of  the  attributes  of  the  air — and  that  the  most  speedy  and 
destructive. 

In  a  worship  of  'propitiation,  it  would  be  most  proper  and  reasonable 
that  that  destructive  element  should  be  personified  and  supplicated. 

In  the  city  of  Mexico  I  constantly  saw  serpents,  carved  in  stone,  in  the 
various  collections  of  antiquities.  One  was  presented  to  me  by  the 
Conde  del  Penasco,  and  the  drawings  below  represent  the  figures  of  two 
"  feathered  serpents,"  which,  after  considerable  labor  I  disinterred  (I  may 
say>)  from  a  heap  of  dirt  and  rubbish,  old  boxes,  chicken-coops  and  de- 
cayed fruit,  in  the  court-yard  of  the  University. 


32 


MEXICO. 


These  masses  of  stone  are 
not  only  interesting  on  ac- 
count of  their  connection  with 
the  Mexican  Mythology,  but 
they  are  beautiful  specimens 
of  Azteck  art.  The  carv- 
ing with  which  they  are  cov- 
ered is  executed  with  a  neat- 
ness and  gracefulness  that 
would  make  them,  as  mere 
ornaments,  worthy  of  the 
chisel  of  an  ancient  sculptor. 


The  present  town  of  Cho- 
lula  is  scarcely  more  than  a 
village,  and  seems  gradually 
still  more  decaying.  At  the 
conquest  it  was  a  city  of  much 
splendor,  as  we  gather  from 
the  accounts  of  Cortez,  who, 
in  his  letters  to  the  Emperor 
speaks  of  it  thus  : 

"  This  city  of  Churultecal* 
is  situated  on  a  plain,  and  contains  twenty  thousand  houses  within  the  body 
of  the  town,  and  as  many  in  the  suburb.  Its  people  are  well  dressed,  and 
its  neighboring  fields  are  exceedingly  fertile  ;  and  I  certify  to  your  ma- 
jesty, that,  from  one  of  the  temples  I  have  counted  more  than  four  hundred 
towers,  and  they  are  all  the  towers  of  temples  /" 

Such  was  Cholula  when  it  fell  under  the  Spanish  sway,  and  there  seems 
to  be  no  reason  to  doubt,  that,  "  sacred  city"  as  it  was  held  to  be  by  the 
Indians  of  the  period,  the  account  of  Cortez  was  indeed  correct.  But  the 
temple  is  year  after  year  crumbling,  more  and  more,  to  decay  ;  its  outlines 
are  becoming  more  and  more  indistinct ;  and  of  the  race  that  worshipped  on 
that  pyramid,  there  now  remains  nothing  but  a  few  servile  Indians  who  till 
the  adjacent  fields,  and  the  women  who  throng  the  market-place  with  their 
fruits  and  flowers.  I  wanted  some  relics  of  the  spot,  and  commissioning 
a  proud-looking  fellow,  who  may  have  been,  for  aught  I  know,  a  great- 
great-great-great-grandson  of  some  of  the  lords  of  Cholula,  to  hunt  up 
a  few  antiquities  ;  he  brought  me,  after  an  hour's  search  among  the  ruins, 
a  quantity  of  pottery,  heads  of  animals,  fragments  of  vases,  and  a  small 
idol  sculptured  in  white  marble.     These  are  my  souvenirs  of  Cholula. 


*  The  ancient  name  of  Cholula. 


LETTER   VII, 


LAST    DAY  S    RIDE    TO    MEXICO. 


Soon  after  our  departure  from  Puebla,*  we  crossed  a  small  stream* 
spanned  by  a  fine  bridge,  and  commenced  ascending  by  a  very  gradually 
inclined  plain  toward  the  Sierra  Nevada.  The  mountains  on  our  left  are 
a  stupendous  range,  standing  out  sharply  against  the  bright  blue  sky,  in 
the  clear  early  light  and  pure  atmosphere,  their  lower  portions  covered 
with  dark  pine  forests,  from  which  the  conic  peak  of  Popocatepetl,  with 
its  eternal  snow,  emerges  majestically ;  while,  further  north,  towers  its 
gigantic  rival,  Iztaccihtjatl.  Between  us  and  the  mountains  is  the 
Pyramid  of  Choldla.  As  we  approach  this  elevated  region,  the  country 
becomes  well  watered,  and  the  plain  is  just  sufficiently  inclined  for  irri- 
gation ;  the  soil  rich,  the  estates  extensive,  and  cultivated  with  the  greatest 
care.  Immense  herds  of  cattle  are  spread  over  the  fields,  and  the  land,- 
now  preparing  for  the  winter  crops,  is  divided  into  extensive  tracts  of  & 
thousand  acres,  along  which  the  furrows  are  drawn  with  mathematical 
accuracy.  Among  these  noble  farms  a  multitude  of  habitations  are" 
scattered,  which,  inclosing  the  numerous  population  necessary  for  labor; 
with  the  requisite  chapels,  churches,  and  surrounding  offices,  gleam  out 
brightly  with  their  white  walls  from  among  the  dark  foliage  of  the  groveSj 
and  impress  one  as  favorably  as  the  multitude  of  tasteful  villages  that  dot 
the  windings  of  our  beautiful  Connecticut. 

We  breakfasted  hastily  at  San  Martin,  and  for  the  next  league  our" 
ascent  was  almost  imperceptible.  At  length  we  crossed  several  fine 
streams,  and  the  road,  rising  rapidly,  struck  more  into  the  mountain. 
There  was  no  longer  any  sign  of  cultivation,  even  in  the  dells,  but  the 

*  It  is  not  over  two  or  three  hundred  yards  from  the  gates  of  Puebla,  where  most  of  the  robberies  of  which  i 
afterward  heard  during  my  residence  in  Mexico,  occurred.  A  band  of  some  five,  ten,  or  a  dozen  men,  armed, 
with  their  faces  covered  with  crape,  usually  stood  waiting  in  the  early  dawn,  for  the  diligence.  If  there  were' 
armed  for  eigners  in  the  coach,  they  would  look  in,  consult  a  moment,  and  then  ride  off.  ]f  the  passengers 
were  unarmed,  and  the  boot  of  the  vehicle  looked  heavy  and  tempting,  the  result  was  the  perfect  sacking  of  the 
whole  company.  Their  persons  were  first  robbed  and  partially  stripped  as  they  descended  from  the  door ;  they 
were  then  made  to  lie  down  with  their  mouths  on  the  ground— and  their  trunks  were  rifled.  One  lady  (the" 
present  prima  donna  of  the  opera  in  Mexico)  lost  $6000  in  doubloons  and  jewels,  at  this  very  spot— notwith- 
standing a  guard  had  been  promised  by  the  authorities,  and  paid  for.  The  instances,  however,  were  innu- 
merable and  unpardonable,  while  regiments  of  cavalry  dozed,  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  in  a  city  almost 
under  Martial  Law. 

While  I  resided  in  the  Capital,  during  Santa  Anna's  vigorous  administration,  he  had  some  65  or  70  garrotted; 
Two  or  three  every  week.  This  for  a  time  struck  tenor  to  the  band ;  but  I  learn  that  lately  they  have  agaiii 
taken  to  the  road  with  renewed  vigor. 

3 


34  MEXICO. 

dense  forest  spread  out  on  every  side  its  sea  of  foliage.  The  road  was 
as  smooth  as  a  bowling-green,  and  we  swung  along  over  the  levels,  up 
hill  and  down,  until  we  passed  the  Puente  de  Tesmeluca,  over  a  stream 
dashing  from  a  mountain  ravine  like  a  shower  of  silver  from  among  the 
verdure.  After  again  ascending  another  mountain,  and  following  its  de- 
scent  on  the  other  side,  we  reached  the  village  of  Rio  Frio,  a  collection 
of  the  miserable  huts  of  coal-burners,  and  the  nest  and  nursery  of  as 
fierce  a  brood  of  robbers  as  haunt  the  forests.  In  proof  of  this,  and, 
moreover,  that  the  Cross,  in  this  land,  is  no  "  sign  of  redemption"  the 
sacred  emblem  was  again  spread  out  on  every  side,  as  yesterday  in  the 
Barranca  Secca,  marking  the  grave  of  some  murdered  traveller.  We 
were  once  more  in  the  fields  of  romance  and  robbery;  yet,  well  guarded 
to-day  by  a  vigilant  troop,  and  in  good  spirits  at  the  near  termination  of 
our  trials,  we  again  launched  forth  for  our  final  ride.  Leaving  this 
narrow  and  desolate  ravine  among  the  hills,  the  road  once  more  ascends 
by  a  series  of  short  windings  through  the  pine  woods,  among  which  the 
wind  whistled  cold  and  shrill  as  over  our  winter  plains ;  and,  thus  grad- 
ually scaling  the  last  mountain  on  our  route,  while  the  increased  guard 
scoured  the  recesses  of  the  forest,  we  reached  the  lofty  summit  in  about 
an  hour,  and  rolled  for  some  distance  along  a  level  table  land,  catching 
glimpses,  occasionally,  of  a  distant  horizon  to  the  west,  apparently  as 
illimitable  as  the  sea.  The  edge  of  the  mountain  was  soon  turned,  and 
as  the  coach  dipped  forward  on  the  descent  of  the  western  slope,  a  sudden 
clearing  in  the  forest  disclosed  the  magnificent  Valley  of  Mexico. 

The  sight  of  land  to  the  sea-worn  sailor — the  sight  of  home  to  the  wan- 
derer, who  has  not  beheld  for  years  the  scene  of  his  boyhood — are  not 
hailed  with  more  thrilling  delight,  than  was  the  exclamation  from  one  of 
our  passengers  as  he  announced  this  prospect. 

I  am  really  afraid  to  describe  this  valley  to  you,  as  I  dislike  to  deal 
in  hyperboles.  I  have  seen  the  Simplon — the  Spleugen — the  view  from 
Rhigi — the  "  wide  and  winding  Rhine" — and  the  prospect  from  Vesuvius 
over  the  lovely  bay  of  Naples,  its  indolent  waves  sleeping  in  the  warm 
sunshine  on  their  purple  bed — but  none  of  these  scenes  compare  with  the 
Valley  of  Mexico.  They  want  some  one  of  the  elements  of  grandeur, 
all  of  which  are  gathered  here.  Although  the  highest  triumphs  of  human 
genius  and  art  may  disappoint  you,  Nature  never  does.  The  conceptions 
of  Ilim  who  laid  the  foundations  of  the  mountains,  and  poured  the  waters 
of  the  seas  from  his  open  palm,  can  never  be  reached  by  the  fancies  of 
men.  And  if,  after  all  the  exaggerated  descriptions  of  St.  Peter's  and 
the  Pyramids,  we  feel  sipk  with  disappointment  when  we  stand  before 
them,  it  is  never  so  with  the  sublime  creations  of  the  Almighty. 

You  would,  therefore,  no  doubt,  most  readily  spare  my  attempting 
to  give  by  the  pen  a  description  of  what  even  the  more  graphic  pencil  has 
ever  failed  faithfully  to  convey.  But  I  feel  in  some  measure  bound  to 
make  for  you  a  catalogue  of  this  valley's  features,  though  I  am  confident 
I  must  fail  to  describe  or  paint  them. 


VALLEY     OF    MEXICO.  gg 

Conceive  yourself  placed  on  a  mountain  nearly  two  thousand  feet  above* 
the  valley,  andnine  thousand  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  A  sky  above  you 
of  the  most  perfect  azure,  without  a  cloud,  and  an  atmosphere  so  trans^ 
parently  pure,  that  the  remotest  objects  at  the  distance  of  many  leagues 
are  as  distinctly  visible  as  if  at  hand.  The  gigantic  scale  of  everything 
first  strikes  you — you  seem  to  be  looking  down  upon  a  world.  No  other 
mountain  and  valley  view  has  such  an  assemblage  of  features,  because 
nowhere  else  are  the  mountains  at  the  same  time  so  high,  the  valley  so 
wide,  or  filled  with  such  variety  of  land  and  water.  The  plain  beneath 
is  exceedingly  level,  and  for  two  hundred  miles  around  it  extends  a 
barrier  of  stupendous  mountains,  most  of  which  have  been  active  volcanos, 
and  are  now  covered,  some  with  snow,  and  some  with  forests.  It  is  laced 
with  large  bodies  of  water  looking  more  like  seas  than  lakes — it  is  dotted 
with  innumerable  villages,  and  estates  and  plantations ;  eminences  rise 
from  it  which,  elsewhere,  would  be  called  mountains,  yet  there,  at  your' 
feet,  they  seem  but  ant-hills  on  the  plain ;  and  now,  letting  your  eye  fol- 
low the  rise  of  the  mountains  to  the  west,  (near  fifty  miles  distant,)  you 
look  over  the  immediate  summits  that  wall  the  valley,  to  another  and 
more  distant  range — and  to  range  beyond  range,  with  valleys  between 
each,  until  the  whole  melts  into  a  vapory  distance,  blue  as  the  cloudless" 
sky  above  you. 

I  could  have  gazed  for  hours  at  this  little  world  while  the  sUn  and 
passing  vapor  chequered  the  fields,  and  sailing  off  again,  left  the  whole 
one  bright  mass  of  verdure  and  water — bringing  out  clearly  the  domes  of 
the  village  churches  studding  the  plain  or  leaning  against  the  first  slopes' 
of  the  mountains,  with  the  huge  lakes  looming  larger  in  the  rarified  at- 
mosphere. Yet  one  thing  was  wanting.  Over  the  immense  expanse 
there  seemed  scarce  an  evidence  of  life.  There  were  no  figures  in  the 
picture.  It  lay  torpid  in  the  sunlight,  like  some  deserted  region  where 
Nature  was  again  beginning  to  assert  her  empire — Vast,  solitary  and 
melancholy.  There  were  no  sails — no  steamers  on  the  lakes,  no  smoke' 
over  the  villages,  no  people  at  labor  in  the  fields,  no  horsemen,  coaches, 
or  travellers  but  ourselves.  The  silence  was  almost  supernatural ;  one 
expects  to  hear  the  echo  of  the  national  strife  that  filled  these  plains  with 
discord,  yet  lingering  among  the  hills.  It  was  a  picture  of  "still  life " 
inanimate  in  every  feature,  save  where,  on  the  distant  mountain  sides,  the 
fire  of  some  poor  coal-burner,  mingled  its  blue  wreath  with  the  bluer  sky, 
or  the  tinkle  of  the  bell,  of  a  solitary  muleteer  Was  heard  from  among  the 
dark  and  solemn  pines. 

What  a  theatre  for  the  great  drama  that  has  been  performed  within  the 
limits  of  this  valley !  When  Cortez  first  stood  upon  these  mountains, 
and  looked  down  on  the  lovely  scene,  peaceful  then  and  rich  under  the 
cultivation  of  its  Indian  children ;  the  hills  and  plains  covered  with  for-; 
Csts,  and  much  of  what  is  now  dry  land  hidden  by  the  extensive  lake,  in 
the  midst  of  which  rose  the  proud  city  of  the  Aztec  kings  filled  with  pal-- 
aces  and  temples ;  in  site,  another  Venice  on  its  inland  sea ;  in  art,  the 
3* 


36  MEXICO. 

Indian  Attica — when  he  beheld,  I  say,  this  tranquil  scene  at  his  feet,  what 
must  have  been  the  avarice  and  the  relentlessness  of  an  unknightly  heart 
that  urged  him  onward  to  the  destruction  and  enslavement  of  a  civilized 
and  unoffending  people,  whose  only  crime  was,  the  possession  of  a  coun- 
try rich  enough  to  be  plundered  to  minister  to  the  luxury  of  a  bigo.ted 
race  beyond  the  sea ! 


Our  descent  commenced  from  the  eminence  where  we  had  halted 
awhile  to  survey  the  valley.  Our  coachman  was  an  honest  Yankee, 
fearless  as  the  wild  horses  he  drove,  and  they  scoured  along  under  his 
lash  as  if  we  had  the  level  roads  of  New  England  beneath  us.  But,  alas ! 
we  had  not.  I  question  whether  there  are  any  such  roads  elsewhere — in 
the  world — nor  can  you  conceive  them,  because  your  experience  among 
the  wilds  of  the  Aroostook  or  the  marshes  of  the  Mississippi,  can  furnish 
no  symptoms  of  such  highways.  They  were  gullies,  washed  into  the 
mountain  side  by  the  rains ;  filled,  here  and  there,  with  stones  and 
branches ;  dammed  up,  to  turn  the  water,  by  mounds  a  couple  of  feet 
high — and  thus,  gradually  serpentining  to  the  foot  of  the  declivity.  You 
may  readily  imagine  that  there  was  no  such  thing  as  rolling  down  with 
our  rapid  motion  over  such  a  ravine.  We  literally  jumped  from  dam  to 
dam,  and  rock  to  rock,  and  in  many  places  where  the  steep  is  certainly 
at  an  angle  of  45°,  I  must  confess  that  I  quailed  at  the  impending  danger 
while  the  horses  bounded  along  as  fiercely  as  if  they  bore  Mazeppa.  But 
the  driver  knew  what  he  was  about,  and  in  an  hour  drew  up  at  the  Venta 
de  Cordova,  where,  when  I  alighted,  I  found  myself  deaf  and  giddy  from 
the  heat,  dust,  and  irregular  motion.  In  a  few  moments,  however,  the 
blood  poured  from  my  head  and  I  was  relieved,  though  I  felt  ill  and  un- 
comfortable the  rest  of  the  day.  Two  of  the  other  passengers  suffered  in 
the  same  manner.* 

The  succeeding  distance  of  about  thirty  miles  lies  along  the  level,  and 
skirts  a  detached  range  of  volcanic  hills  between  the  lakes  of  Tezcoco 
and  Chalco,  the  same  which  I  described,  some  time  ago.  as  rising  like 
ant-heaps  from  the  plain.  We  passed  the  village  of  Ayotla,  and  through 
a  number  of  collections  of  mud- walled  huts  and  desolate  hovels,  buried 
up  among  palm-trees  and  fields  of  barley  and  maguey,  (resembling  the 
streets  of  ruined  tombs  near  Rome;)  but  nowhere  did  I  see  any  evidence 
of  neat  or  careful  cultivation,  or  of  comfort  and  thriftiness.  In  this  the 
valley  of  Mexico  is,  markedly,  different  from  that  of  Puebla.  Misery 
and  neglect  reigned  absolute.  Squalid  Indians  in  rags  exhibiting  almost 
entirely  their  dirty  bodies,  thronged  the  road  ;  miserable  devils  coming 

*  Almost  nil  travellers  suflbr  from  piilcliness  and  flow  of  blood  to  the  head  on  their  arrival  on  the  Valley  of 
Mexico.    This  nrisee  from  the  great  rarefaction  of  the  atmosphere,  7500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 


APPROACHING    THE    CAPITAL.  37 

from  market ;  children,  half-starved  and  naked,  and  women,  whose  wiry 
and  uncombed  hair  gave  them  the  mien  of  porcupines. 

At  length,  as  we  gained  the  top  of  a  little  eminence  our  driver  pointed 
out  the  "City  of  Mexico :" — a  long  line  of  turrets,  and  domes,  and  spires, 
lying  in  the  lap  of  beautiful  meadows,  and  screened,  partially,  by  inter- 
venino-  trees,  planted  along  the  numerous  avenues  leading  to  the  Capital. 
About  two  leagues  from  the  city  we  came  to  the  ancient  border  of  the 
lake  of  Tezcoco,  now  a  marshy  flat  from  which  the  waters  have  receded. 
Here  we  mounted  the  Calzada,  or  causeway,  raised  about  six  feet  above 
the  surrounding  waters. 

This  road  is  not  one  of  the  ancient  avenues  by  which  the  city  was  ap- 
proached, across  the  lake,  during  the  reign  of  the  Indians,  but  was  con- 
structed at  great  expense  by  the  old  Spanish  Government.  Although  the 
land  to  the  north  of  it  is  covered  with  saline  particles  that  are  perfectly 
visible  as  you  ride  along,  yet  the  southern  flats,  being  watered  by  the 
fresher  stream  from  Chalco  which  flows  through  several  apertures  of  the 
dike,  are  in  no  manner  discolored.  The  northern  marsh  was  covered 
with  myriads  of  ducks,  and  looked  as  if  it  had  been  literally  peppered 
with  wild  fowl.  These  birds  are  murdered  in  immense  quantities  with  a 
sort  of  infernal  machine,  formed  by  the  union  of  a  great  number  of  gun- 
barrels,  and^they  furnish  the  chief  food  of  the  poor  of  Mexico. 

Thus,  about  four  o'clock,  we  passed  this  unprepossessing  approach  to 
the  Capital,  driving  by  the  body  of  a  man  who  had  just  been  murdered, 
lying  on  the  road  side,  with  the  blood  flowing  from  his  recent  wound. 
Hundreds  passed,  but  no  one  noticed  him.  At  the  gates  we  were  detained 
only  a  lnoment  for  examination,  and  we  entered  the  city  by  the  Puerto  de 
San  Lazaro.  A  saint  who  suffered  from  impure  blood,  and  presides  over 
sores,  may  well  be  the  patron  of  that  portal  and  portion  of  the  suburbs 
through  which  we  jolted  over  disjoined  pavements,  while  the  water  lay 
green  and  putrid  in  the  stagnant  gutter,  festering  in  the  middle  of  close 
streets,  swarmed  with  ragged  thousands.  As  I  looked  at  them  from  our 
window,  they  seemed  more  like  a  population  of  witches,  freshly  dismounted 
from  their  broomsticks,  than  anything  else  to  which,  in  fancy,  I  can  readily 
compare  them. 

But  the  journey  ended  as  we  drove  to  the  hotel  Vergara,  where  a  dirty 
court-yard,  filled  with  sheep,  chickens,  horses,  bath-houses,  and  a  black- 
smith's shop,  received  our  jaded  crew.  I  found  that  a  kind  friend  had 
already  prepared  rooms  for  me,  where,  after  a  bath  and  dinner,  I  was 
made  as  comfortable  as  possible,  by  the  attentions  of  a  hospitable  land- 
lady. 


LETTER    VIII 


THE    CITY    OF    MEXICO. 


You  left  me  retiring  to  rest  at  my  hotel  in  Mexico,  and  soundly  did  I 
repose  after  my  last  fatiguing  ride  from  the  mountains  and  over  the  plain 
to  the  city.  I  was  roused,  however,  betimes  by  the  clang  of  the  church 
bells  for  early  mass.  This  sound  I  had  not  heard  since  my  visit  to 
Italy  many  years  ago,  and  it  brought  back  to  me  many  pleasant  memo- 
ries, as  I  lay  half  awake  and  half  dreaming,  during  the  early  hours. 
When  I  arose  other  recollections  of  Italy  were  excited.  The  windows, 
descending  to  the  ground,  of  the  brick-paved  room,  thrown  open,  let  in  an 
air  worthy  of  Naples  the  beautiful !  It  was  the  middle  of  November, 
but  there  was  a  May-mildness  in  the  atmosphere.  The  sky  was  of  that 
deep  ultra-marine  blue  peculiar  to  elevated  regions.  As  I  ranged  my 
eye  down  the  street  from  my  balcony,  the  town  was  alive  with  a  teeming 
population  ;  the  windows  of  the  houses  stood  open ;  fair  women  strolled 
homeward  from  mass ;  old  monks  shuffled  along  in  their  cowled  robes ; 
the  butcher  urged  along  his  ass  with  its  peripatetic  stall  hung  around 
with  various  meats ;  freshly-leaved  flowers  and  trees  stood  in  the  court- 
yards, of  which  I  caught  glimpses  through  the  opened  portals  ;  and  in  the 
balconies  lounged  the  early  risers,  enjoying  a  cigar  after  their  cup  of 
chocolate.  It  was  a  lively  and  beautiful  scene,  worthy  of  the  pencil  of 
that  master  painter  of  cities — Cannaletti,  who  would  have  delighted  in 
the  remarkable  transparency  and  purity  of  the  atmosphere  through  which 
the  distant  hills,  some  twenty  miles  off,  seemed  but  a  barrier  at  the  end 
of  the  street ! 

The  plan  of  the  city  of  Mexico  is  precisely  that  of  a  checquer-board 
with  a  greater  number  of  squares.  Straight  streets  cross  each  other  at 
ri^ht-angles  and  at  regular  intervals.  The  houses  are  painted  with  gay 
colors — light  blue,  fawn,  and  green,  interspersed  with  a  pure  white,  that 
remains  long  unstained  in  the  dry  atmosphere. 

The  view  of  all  these  from  the  elevated  tower  of  the  cathedral,  (to 
which  I  soon  repaired  after  my  arrival  in  the  capital,)  presents  a  mass  of 
domes,  steeples,  and  flat-roofed  dwellings,  frequently  covered,  like  hang 
ing  gardens,  with  flowers  and  foliage.  Beyond  the  gates,  (which  you 
would  scarcely  think  bounded  a  population  of  200,000,)  the  vast  plain 
stretches  out  on  every  side  to  the  mountains,  traversed  in  some  places  by 


PLAZA     AND     PARIAN. 


39 


long  lines  of  aqueducts  sweeping  to  the  city  from  the  hills,  and  in  others, 
studded  with  lakes,  cultivation,  and  beautiful  groves,  until  the  distant 
view  is  closed  by  the  volcanoes,  whose  snows  rest  against  the  blue  sky, 
uncovered,  at  this  season,  by  a  single  cloud. 

Below  is  the  great  square  or  Plaza  ;  a  large  paved  area,  fronted  on  the 
north,  bv  the  Cathedral ;  on  the  east,  by  the  National  Palace,  (the  resi- 
dence of  the  President ;)  to  the  south  of  which,  again,  are  the  museum, 
and  a  stone  edifice  recently  built  in  tasteful  style,  for  a  market.  The 
corner-stone*  of  this  was  laid  after  I  arrived  in  Mexico,  and  before  I 
left,  the  building  was  nearly  completed.  Until  that  time  the  fruits,  flow- 
ers, vegetables,  and  most  of  the  necessaries  of  the  table,  had  been  sold 
on  that  spot,  in  shambles  and  booths  built  of  bamboos  and  reeds,  sheltered 
from  the  rain  and  sun  by  thatched  roofs  ! 

In  the  southwestern  corner  of  the  square  is  the  Parian,  an  unsightly 
building  (erected,  I  believe,  since  the  revolution,)  which  greatly  mars  the 
effect  of  the  Plaza.  It  is  a  useful  establishment,  however,  as  it  affords 
a  large  revenue  to  the  municipality,  and  is  the  great  bazaar  where  every 
article  requisite  for  the  dress  of  Mexicans,  male  or  female,  may  be  pur- 
chased at  reasonable  prices.  On  the  pavement  which  runs  round  it,  sit 
numbers  of  coachmen  whose  stand  is  in  the  neighborhood,  and  crowds 
of  women  with  ready-made  shoes.  Not  the  least  curious,  however,  among 
the  multitude,  with  which  this  side-walk  is  generally  thronged,  are  about 
a  dozen  "  evangclistasf  or  "  letter-writers,"  whose  post  is  always  on  the 
curb-stones  of  the  eastern  front  of  the  Parian.  A  huge  jug  of  ink  is 
placed  beside  them ;  a  board  rests  across  their  knees ;  a  pile  of  different 
colored  paper  (most  of  which  is  either  cut,  valentine  fashion,  or  flourished 
over  and  adorned  with  pen-and-ink  ornaments,)  is  placed  on  it,  and,  on  a 
stool  before  them,  sits  some  disconsolate  looking  damsel  or  heart-broken 

*  A  medal  was  struck  in  commemoration  of  this  event,  the  legend  on  which  I  give  for  the  sake  of  those  who 
are  curious  in  inscriptions  of  "  modern"  latin.    The  medal  is  perfectly  plain,  and  of  silver. 


IEECLARVS 

MtLITIE 

EEIPVBLICE 

QVEDTIX 

ANTOKXOPEZ 

IDE  SMTA-ANKA, 

MDCCCXTil. 


HTXBEET43PI& 

ETDECOEIS 
PAUSE 

imMomnA. 

POSTIT. 


40  MEXICO. 

lover,  pouring  out  a  passion  which  the  scribe  puts  into  becoming  phrase- 
ology.  It  is  an  important  trade ;  and  more  money  is  earned  in  Mexico 
by  this  proxy-making  love,  than  perhaps  anywhere  else.  You  can  have 
a  "declaration"  for  one  rial;  a  scolding  letter  for  a  medio;  and  an  up- 
braiding epistle,  full  of  daggers,  jealousy,  love,  and  tenderness,  (leaving 
the  unfortunate  recipient  in  a  very  distracted  state  of  mind,)  done  upon 
azure  paper  be-sprinkled  with  hearts  and  doves,  for  the  ridiculous  price 
of  twenty-five  cents  ! 

West  of  the  Parian,  and  all  around  the  southern  and  western  sides  of 
the  Plaza,  or  those  portions  of  it  which  are  not  directly  occupied  by  the 
Cathedral  and  National  Palace,  run  the  arched  Portales,  similar  to  the 
arcades  of  Bologna.  These  are  filled  with  gay  shops,  peddlers,  caffes, 
old  clothes,  toys,  flower-venders,  sweetmeats,  bookstalls,  cutlers,  curiosity- 
hunters,  antiquities,  (veritable  and  doubtful,)  and  the  usual  crowd  of 
loungers  and  quidnuncs.  Here  the  last  revolution,  or  the  probability  of 
a  new  one,  is  in  continual  discussion,  by  knots  of  idlers.  Above  stairs, 
in  some  of  the  dwellings,  are  gambling-houses,  as  formerly  in  the  Palais 
Royal,  with  which  the  scene  here  presented  does  not,  of  course,  vie  in 
taste  or  splendor. 

Opposite  to  the  southern  end  of  the  Parian  is  the  Casa  Municipal,  or 
town-hall,  in  the  lower  story  of  which  is  the  Lonja,  (the  Exchange  of 
the  merchants  of  Mexico,)  a  noble  room,  filled  with  all  the  gazettes  of 
the  Republic,  of  Europe,  and  the  United  States,  and  adjoined  by  an  apart- 
ment in  which  readers  may  occasionally  amuse  themselves  with  a  game 
of  billiards. 


Descending  from  the  tower  of  the  Cathedral,  let  us  enter  the  doors  of 
the  sacred  edifice. 

Its  floor  is  of  loose  disjointed  boards,  filled  with  dirt  and  filth — the  cov- 
ering of  the  many  dead  who  lie  mouldering  beneath.  But  with  this,  all 
meanness  ends  ;  and  whether  we  contemplate  the  dimensions  of  the  edifice, 
or  the  millions  that  have  been  spent  upon  its  decoration,  the  mind  is  lost 
in  wonder.  It  is  impossible  for  me  to  describe  the  whole  of  this  building 
to  you — a  book  would  not  suffice  for  the  immense  and  minute  detail  with 
which  its  walls  and  altars  are  embellished. 

In  order  to  afford  you  some  idea  of  the  wealth  of  the  church,  generally — 
and  passing  over  plate  glass  and  crystal,  silver  frames,  lamps,  carving 
and  gilding  enough  to  make  an  ordinary  metropolitan  church  blaze  with 
splendor — I  will  only  mention  one  object  in  the  body  of  the  building : 
the  altar  and  its  accessories. 

The  Cathedral  occupies  a  space  of  500  feet  by  420  front.  The  main 
altar  is  not  erected  against  the  wall,  but  near  the  centre  of  the  edifice, 
beneath  the  dome.     From  this,  extending  around  the  choir  probably  twp 


THE     LEPEROS.  41 

hundred  feet,  there  isva  rail  between  four  and  five  feet  high,  and  of  propor- 
tionable thickness,  composed  of  gold,  silver,  and  a  small  alloy  of  brass. 
This  is  surmounted  Avith  silver  statues  for  candles.  In  front  of  the  altar  is 
the  choir,  itself  a  church,  built  of  dark  woods  of  the  rarest  antique  carving. 
The  altar  (placed  upon  a  mai-ble  platform,  elevating  it  from  the  floor  of 
the  building,  and  covered  with  gold  and  silver  ornaments,  candlesticks 
and  crosses,)  is  of  wrought  and  polished  silver ;  and  the  whole  is  sur- 
mounted by  a  small  temple,  in  which  rests  the  figure  of  the  Virgin  of 
Remedios,  who  enjoys  the  exclusive  right  to  three  petticoats  ;  one  embrou 
dered  with  pearls,  another  with  emeralds,  and  a  third  with  diamonds,  the  value 
of  which,  I  am  credibly  informed,  is  not  less  than  three  millions  of  dollars  ! 
This,  you  will  recollect,  is  only  one  part  of  one  church  in  Mexico,  and  that 
one  said  not  to  be  the  richest ! 

Around  this  splendid  mine  of  wealth  are  half-naked  Indians,  gaping 
with  surprise,  or  kneeling  to  the  figure  of  some  favorite  saint — the  misery 
of  the  man  a  painful  contrast  with  the  splendor  of  the  shrine  ! 


Passing  from  the  Cathedral  door  to  the  south-eastern  portion  of  the  city, 
you  reach  the  outskirts,  crossing,  in  your  way,  the  canals  from  the  lake. 
I  have  rarely  seen  such  miserable  suburbs ;  they  are  filled  with  hovels 
built  of  sun-dried  bricks,  often  worn  with  the  weather  to  the  shape  of  holes 
in  the  mud,  while  on  their  earthen  floors  crawl,  cook,  live  and  multiply, 
the  wretched-looking  population  of  leperos. 

This  word,  I  believe,  is  not  pure  Spanish,  but  is  derived  originally,  it  is 
said,  from  the  Castilian  lepra,  or  leper ;  and  although  they  do  not  suffer 
from  that  loathsome  malady,  they  are  quite  as  disgusting. 

Blacken  a  man  in  the  sun  ;  let  his  hair  grow  long  and  tangled,  or  be- 
come filled  with  vermin ;  let  him  plod  about  the  streets  in  all  kinds  of 
dirt  for  years,  and  never  know  the  use  of  brush,  or  towel,  or  water  even, 
except  in  storms ;  let  him  put  on  a  pair  of  leather  breeches  at  twenty,  and 
"wear  them  until  forty,  without  change  or  ablution  ;  and,  over  all,  place  a 
torn  and  blackened  hat,  and  a  tattered  blanket  begrimed  with  abomi- 
nations ;  let  him  have  wild  eyes,  and  shining  teeth,  and  features  pinched 
by  famine  into  sharpness ;  breasts  bared  and  browned,  and  (if  females) 
with  two  or  three  miniatures  of  the  same  species  trotting  after  her,  and 
another  certainly  strapped  to  her  back:  combine  all  these  in  your  ima- 
gination, and  you  have  a  recipe  for  a  Mexican  lepero. 

There,  on  the  canals,  around  the  markets  and  pulque  shops,  the  Indians 
and  these  miserable  outcasts  hang  all  day  long ;  feeding  on  fragments, 
quarrelling,  drinking,  stealing  and  lying  drunk  about  the  pavements,  with 
their  children  crying  with  hunger  around  them.  At  night  they  slink  off 
to  these  suburbs  and  coil  themselves  up  on  the  damp  floors  of  their  lairs, 
to  sleep  off  the  effects  of  liquor,  and  to  awake  to  another  day  of  misery 


42  MEXICO 


and  crime.  Is  it  wonderful,  in  a  city  with  an  immense  proportion  of  its 
inhabitants  of  such  a  class,  (hopeless  in  the  present  and  the  future.)  that 
there  are  murderers  and  robbers  ? 


In  the  Indian  population  which  pours  into  the  Capital  from  the  lakes, 
I  must  say  that  there  is  apparently  more  worth  and  character.  You  see 
them  lolling  about  in  their  boats  on  the  canals,  and  passing  and  repassing 
in  their  canoes,  plying  between  the  city  and  Chalco  and  Tezcoco.  It  is 
a  beautiful  sight  to  behold  these  tiny  vessels  skim  like  floating  gardens  to 
the  quays  in  the  morning,  laden  to  the  water's  edge  with  the  fruits,  flow- 
ers and  vegetables,  that  hide  the  skiff  that  bears  them. 

The  old  houses  in  this  neighborhood,  rising  out  of  the  canals,  the  slug- 
gish waters,  and  the  dark  multitude  of  the  better  classes  in  fanciful  dresses, 
remind  one  strongly  of  Venice. 

Skirting  the  canal,  and  leading  to  the  plain  which  adjoins  the  Chenampas, 
or  former  floating  gardens,  is  the  Passco  de  la  Viga,  a  public  drive  fre- 
quented by  the  beau  monde,  both  in  coach  and  on  horseback,  during  the 
season  of  Lent.  Scarcely  an  afternoon  passes,  at  that  period  of  the  year, 
that  the  observer  will  not  find  the  canal  covered  with  gay  boat-loads  of 
Indians,  passing  homeward  from  market,  dancing,  singing,  laughing, 
strumming  the  guitar,  and  crowned  with  wreaths  of  poppies.  I  do  not 
know  the  origin  of  the  custom  of  wearing  this  forgetful  flower ;  but  it  is 
both  a  healthier  and  more  poetic  oblivion  than  that  resorted  to  by  many 
folks  in  other  lands,  after  a  day  of  toil. 

Turning  once  more  westward,  we  again  reach  the  great  square. 

As  we  pass  the  front  of  the  National  Palace,  from  out  of  its  main  portal 
dash  fifty  gayly-caparisoned  huzzars,  followed  by  a  coach  richly  decked 
with  crimson  velvet  and  gold,  drawn  by  four  white  horses  and  driven  by 
a  Yankee  coachman.  Behind  this  dash  fifty  more  huzzars,  while  at  the 
side  of  the  coach,  six  aid-de-camps  rein  in  their  mettlesome  chargers, 
There  is  but  one  person  in  the  vehicle.  His  dress  is  that  of  a  General  of 
division,  with  red  facings  and  gold  embroideries.  He  wears  a  number 
of  decorations  around  his  neck,  while  a  medal  blazing  with  diamonds, 
voted  to  him  by  the  nation,  rests  on  his  bosom.  His  sword-handle  is 
studded  with  diamonds,  and  his  hand  rests  on  a  diamond-headed  cane. 
He  is  uncovered,  and,  as  he  passes  and  bows  gracefully  to  your  saluta- 
tion, you  recognize  the  President  of  the  Republic  ! 

The  departure  of  the  President  from  the  Palace  has  attracted  a  crowd, 
The  adjoining  market,  ever  filled  with  people,  pours  forth  its  multitudes 
into  the  square. 

First,  there  is  the  Aquador  or  water-carrier,  with  his  two  earthen 
jars* — one  suspended  by  a  leathern  belt  thrown  around  his  forehead  and 


THE    AGUADOR. 


43 


THE      AGUADOR, 


resting  on  his  back,  and  the  other  suspended  from  the  back  of  his  head 
in  front  of  him,  preserving  the  equilibrium.* 

Next,  there  is  the  Indian  with  a  huge  coop  of  chickens  and  turkies 
or  a  crate  of  earthenware,  or  a  pannier  of  oranges,  borne  on  his  back, 
like  the  aquador's  jar.  Then  a  woman,  with  peas,  or  ducks,  or  fish  from 
the  lake  ;  another  with  potatoes  ;  another  drives  along  a  poor  stunted  ass, 
laden  with  radishes  and  onions;  and  all  the  members  of  this  motley 
crowd,  are  crying  their  wares  and  merchandise  at  the  top  of  their  voices, 
It  is  a  Babel  I 

Amid  the  throng  treads  onward,  with  step  majestic,  the  queenly  Spanish 
woman ;  by  her  side  is  a  friar,  and  hard  by  a  couple  of  priests  in  their 
graceful  black  cloaks  and  shovel  hats. 


*  An  Englishman  passing  an  aguador  in  the  street,  struck  the  jar  on  the  fellow's  back  with  his  cane.  It 
broke— and  the  weight  of  the  other  jar  immediately  brought  the  poor  carrier  on  his  nose.  He  arose  in  a  rage, 
The  offender,  however,  immediately  calmed  him  with  a  couple  of  dollars.  "  I  only  wanted  to  see  whether  you 
were  exactly  balanced,  my  dear  fellow,  and  the  experiment  is  worth  the  money .'" 


44 


MEXICO. 


FRIAR      AND      PRIESTS. 


In  the  shadow  of  a  pillar  of  the  Portales  sneaks  a  miserable  looking 
wretch,  wrapped  in  his  tattered  blanket — a  lepero,  porter,  beggar,  thief,  as 
the  occasion  offers  ;  and  he  takes  the  advantage  of  the  latter  employment 
in  this  moment  of  excitement,  to  ease  an  unsuspicious  stranger  of  his 
handkerchief! 

A  tinkle  of  a  bell  at  the  door  of  the  Cathedral  sacristy,  and  a  roll  of 
drums  calling  out  the  guard  of  honor  at  the  palace  gate,  give  warning  of 
a  change  of  scene. 

Slowly  issues  a  gayly-painted  coach  with  glass  windows  on  all  sides, 
drawn  by  spotted  mules  ;  a  priest  in  his  vestments  sits  within ;  a  band 
of  boys  walk  on  each  side,  chanting  a  hymn  ;  and  in  a  moment,  a 
deathlike  stillness  pervades  the  whole  square.  From  the  tradesman,  sel- 
ling his  tapes  under  the  Portales,  to  the  thief,  who  has  barely  time  to 
conceal  the  handkerchief  in  his  dirty  blanket,  the  whole  crowd  is  un- 
covered and  kneeling :  the  Host  is  passing  to  the  house  of  some  dying 
Catholic  ! 

The  carriage  turns  a  corner,  and  the  square  is  alive  again  ;  the  trades- 
man to  sell,  the  lepero  to  steal,  and  the  lesson  of  death  is  forgotten  for 
ever ! 


THE    ALAMEDA.  45 

Turning  westward  from  the  square  we  reach  the  Alameda,  by  a  very- 
short  walk  through  the  Calle  Plateros,  a  street  filled  with  the  shops  of 
goldsmiths,  watchmakers,  French  hairdressers,  French  cooks,  French 
milliners,  French  carvers  and  gilders,  and  French  print-sellers ;  and  we 
pass  on  our  way  the  rich  Convent  of  the  Professa  or  ex-Jesuits — and  the 
more  splendid  one  of  the  blue-robed  Monks  of  St.  Francis.  The  Ala- 
meda is  a  beautiful  grove  of  forest-trees,  planted  on  about  ten  acres  of 
moist  and  luxuriant  soil.  The  wood,  which  is  walled  and  protected  by 
gates  closed  every  evening  as  the  bells  toll  for  Oration,  is  intersected 
with  walks  and  surrounded  by  a  carriage  road.  Fountains  fling  up  their 
waters  where  the  paths  cross  each  other,  and  the  ground  beneath  the  full- 
grown  trees  is  filled  with  flowers  and  shrubbery.  The  great  centre 
fountain  is  surmounted  by  a  gilded  figure  of  Liberty,  and  gilded  lions 
spout  forth  the  water  at  its  feet.  This,  and  the  other  smaller  jets,  in 
pleasanter  and  more  secluded  nooks,  are  circled  with  stone  seats.  It  is 
the  fashion  to  come  here  in  carriages  and  on  horseback  every  evening, 
(except  during  Lent,)  and  to  drive  round  and  round  the  inclosure,  on  the 
soft  roads  in  the  dense  shade,  until  the  vesper  bell — or,  to  draw  up  in 
line  on  the  side  of  one  of  the  highways,  while  the  cavaliers  pass  up  and 
down  in  review,  or  prattle  away  half  an  hour  at  the  coach-window  of 
some  renowned  belle. 

But  there  can  be  nothing  more  delightful  than  a  walk  here  during  the 
early  morning.  There  is  a  freshness  then  in  the  air,  a  quiet  and  peace- 
fulness,  that  are  found  at  no  other  time  of  the  day.  The  student  comes 
with  his  book  ;  the  priest,  from  his  early  mass  ;  the  nurse,  with  her  baby  ; 
the  sentimental  miss,  to  sigh  for  her  lover,  (and  perhaps  to  see  him ;)  the 
dyspeptic,  to  earn  an  appetite  for  his  breakfast ;  the  monk,  the  lounger, 
and  even  the  laborer,  stop  for  a  moment  beneath  the  refreshing  shades, 
to  take  breath  for  the  coming  day.  It  is  almost  druidical  in  the  solemn 
stillness  of  its  groves,  placed  in  the  midst  of  a  population  of  two  hundred 
thousand.  Even  the  birds  seem  to  have  been  made  sacred ;  scared  from 
the  plains,  they  are  here  in  sanctuary,  and  no  profane  hand  dares  touch 
them.  They  have  consequently  planted,  as  if  by  consent  of  each  other, 
distinct  colonies  in  different  parts  of  the  wood ;  the  owl,  sitting  on  her' 
branch,  in  one  place  ;  the  doves,  making  love  the  business  of  their  lives  in 
another  ;  the  mocking-birds,  making  a  third  spot  a  perfect  choir  ;  and  in- 
numerable sparrows  and  wrens,  like  so  many  Paul  Prys,  chattering  and 
pottering  about  with  an  intrusive  pertness  through  the  dominions  of  all 
the  rest. 

Directly  west  of  the  Alameda,  and  on  the  same  street,  is  the  Passeo 
Nuevo,  another  delightful  drive  of  a  mile  in  length,  bordered  with  paths 
and  trees,  and  divided  by  fountains  adorned  with  statuary  and  sculpture. 

Passing  out  of  the  western  gate  of  the  Alameda,  the  fashionables 
every  evening  take  a  turn  or  two  along  this  drive.  On  festivals  it  is 
crowded.  All  the  equipages  of  the  city  must  oe  there,  and  it  is  the 
mode  for  every  person  of  consideration,  or  who  desires  consideration,  to 


46  MEXICO. 

possess  an  equipage.  It  is  not  thought  "  exactly  proper"  for  a  lady  ever  to 
walk,  except  to  mass — or,  sometimes,  when  she  goes  shopping.  The 
coach,  therefore,  on  all  gala  days,  is  sure  to  appear  on  the  Passeo  with 
its  fair  burden,  dressed  in  the  French  style,  as  for  a  dinner  party  or  a 
ball.  When  I  first  arrived  in  Mexico,  it  was  rare  to  see  a  bonnet  on 
such  occasions;  but  that  awkward  appendage  of  fashionable  costume 
was  becoming  gradually  in  vogue  before  I  left. 

For  an  hour,  or  more,  it  is  the  custom  to  pass  up  and  down  the  sides 
of  the  Passeo,  nodding  and  smiling  at  the  cavaliers,  who  show  off  their 
horsemanship  along  the  centre  of  the  road.  Here  the  utmost  luxury  and 
style  are  exhibited  in  the  equipment  of  carriage  and  animals.  Gold  em- 
broidery, silver  plating,  and  every  ornament  that  can  add  splendor  to 
harness  and  livery  are  brought  forth.  To  such  an  extent  is  the  taste  for 
these  exhibitions  carried,  that  one  of  the  millionaires  of  Mexico  appears 
occasionally  at  the  Passeo,  on  a  saddle  which  (without  counting  the  value 
of  the  rest  of  his  caparison,)  cost  the  sum  of  five  thousand  dollars.  It 
was  the  chef  d'osuvre  of  an  honest  German  saddler,  who  made  it,  and — ■ 
retired  from  trade  to  his  beloved  "  father  land." 

On  approaching  this  charming  drive,  the  whole  plain  of  the  Valley  of 
Mexico  is  at  once  revealed  to  you,  without  passing  a  dirty  suburb.  On 
your  right,  is  the  cypress-covered  and  castle-crowned  hill  of  Chapulte- 
pec,  formerly  the  site,  it  is  alleged,  of  one  of  Montezuma's  palaces  ;  before 
you  and  behind,  stretch  two  immense  aqueducts — the  one  coming  from 
the  hills,  the  other  from  a  greater  distance,  near  Tacubaya,  and  screening 
that  village  as  it  leans  against  the  first  slopes  of  the  western  mountains. 
On  your  left  tower  the  volcanoes,  on  whose  summits  the  last  rosy  rays 
of  sunset  are  resting. 

The  gay  throng  disperses,  as  the  moon  rises  from  behind  the  moun- 
tains, pouring  a  flood  of  clear  light,  bright  as  the  day  in  other  lands, 
over  the  tranquil  landscape. 

The  moonlight  of  Mexico  is  marvellously  beautiful.  That  city,  you 
remember,  is  7,500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  nearly  that 
number  of  feet  closer  to  the  stars  than  we  are ;  the  atmosphere,  conse- 
quently, is  more  rarefied,  and  the  light  comes,  as  it  were,  pure,  and  pel- 
lucid from  heaven :  you  seem  able  to  touch  the  stars,  so  brilliantly  near 
do  they  stand  out  relieved  against  the  back-ground  of  an  intensely  blue 
sky.  Strolling  on  such  nights  in  Mexico,  when  1  saw  the  sharp  lines  of 
tower  and  temple  come  boldly  out  with  shape  and  even  color,  almost 
as  bright,  yet  softer  than  at  noon-day,  I  have  often  been  tempted  to  say 
that  the  moonlight  you  get  at  home  (much  as  it  is  the  theme  of  poets  and 
lovers.)  is  but  second-hand  stuff,  compared  with  that  of  Mexico. 

And  so  with  the  climates.  Between  the  sea-shore  at  Vera  Cruz  and  the 
volcanoes,  whose  eternal  snows  hang  over  Mexico,  you  have  every  climate 
of  the  world. 

In  the  Valley  there  is  a  perpetual  spring.  For  six  months  in  the 
year  (the  winter  months,  as  they  are  called,)  rain  never  falls  ;  during 


CLIMATE. 


47 


the  other  six  months  showers  occur  almost  daily.  It  is  never  hot^-never 
very  cool,  and  you  may  wear  your  cloak  or  your  summer  dress  the 
whole  year  according  to  the  temper  of  your  nervous  system.  One 
side  of  the  street  is  always  too  warm  at  noon.  Cold  and  sleeting  as  it  is 
here  in  January,  the  roses  are  already  blooming  freshly  in  the  gardens 
of  Mexico.  Nor  is  there  perceptible  change  of  foliage  on  the  forest  trees  ; 
the  new  leaves  push  off  the  old  ones  with  a  "  gentle  force,"  and  the 
regeneration  of  the  seasons  is  effected  without  the  process  of  fading,  wilt- 
ing, withering  and  dying,  which  makes  with  us  the  melancholy  days  of 
autumn  "  the  saddest  of  the  year." 

To  look  at  the  external  world,  you  would  say  there  was  no  such  thing 
as  death  in  Mexico.  The  rose  and  the  leaf  you  admire  to-day,  are 
replaced  to-morrow,  by  fresh  buds  and  renewed  verdure. 


LETTER   IX. 


THE    CITY    OF    MEXICO. 


When  a  traveller  arrives  in  an  European  city,  nothing  is  easier  than 
to  find  at  once  every  species  of  accommodation  for  his  comfort.  Indeed,  it 
is  not  necessary  to  seek  them.  He  can  scarcely  walk  a  square  in  any 
of  the  capitals  without  being  attracted  by  inviting  labels,  which  promise 
splendid  apartments  and  every  luxury  requisite  in  this  age  of  elegance 
and  ease. 

Not  so  in  Mexico.  The  Hotel  Vergara,  at  which  I  first  descended, 
though  kept  by  a  most  courteous  lady,  who  does  all  in  her  power  to  render 
her  guests  comfortable,  is  but  a  miserable  establishment  compared  even 
with  our  most  ordinary  inns.  It  is  but  a  small  remove  from  the  Fondas 
and  Mesones  of  the  olden  time  in  Mexico.  This  arises  from  the  fact  that 
travelling  is  only  of  a  recent  date ;  a  new  invention  as  it  were,  in  Mexico. 
In  former  times,  articles  of  merchandise  were  sent  under  the  care  of  Ar- 
rieros,  who  were  satisfied  with  the  accommodation  of  the  ordinary  tavern, 
to  wit:  four  walls,  covered  with  a  roof,  in  which  they  might  stretch  their 
mats,  pile  their  saddles,  and  sleep — living,  the  while,  on  tortillias, 
onions,  pulque  and  jerked  meats.  Whenever  the  better  classes  found  it 
needful  to  visit  the  Capital,  the  house  of  some  friend  was  open  to  them, 
and  thus,  hospitality  prevented  the  creation  of  an  honest  race  of  Boni- 
faces to  welcome  the  weary  wayfarer. 

I  soon  became  tired  of  my  comfortless  apartment,  for  which  an  extrava- 
gant price  was  charged,  and  betook  myself  to  furnished  rooms  in  a  French 
Hotel,  called  the  "  Gran  Sociedad,"  where,  for  about  seventy  dollars  a 
month,  I  got  a  flea-haunted  bed — space  enough  for  my  books  and  papers — 
a  broad  balcony  shielded  from  the  sun  by  a  fanciful  curtain — and  two 
Frenchified  meals  per  day,  from  a  restaurateur  kept  in  the  same  building. 

Here  I  tarried  six  months,  until,  tired  in  turn  of  the  discomforts  and 
expense,  I  went  to  housekeeping  in  a  set  of  apartments  with  the  American 
Consul.  We  took  a  portion  of  the  first  floor  of  a  dwelling  in  the  Calle 
Vergara,  belonging  to  an  ex-Marquesa,  to  whom,  and  to  her  worthy  son,  I 
must  bear  the  testimony  of  a  grateful  heart  for  unwearied  kindness  in 
sickness  and  in  health.  The  residence  was  one  of  the  pleasantest,  for 
its  size,  I  know  in  Mexico.  The  entrance  is  into  a  paved  yard,  around 
which  the  house  is  built,  with  its  apartments  looking  into  the  court  from 


INTERIOR  OF  A  MEXICAN  HOUSE. 


SOCIALFEATURES.  49 

all  sides,  perfectly  screened  from  the  street  and  sun.  On  the  second 
floor,  (on  which  we  lodged,)  a  corridor  runs  round  the  walls,  covered 
with  a  roof  to  protect  it  from  the  weather,  and  filled  with  orange  and 
lemon  trees,  and  a  variety  of  flowering  shrubs,  planted  in  vases  of  rare 
old  India  china,  that  would  delight  the  heart  of  a  London  fancier. 

Here  my  days  were  passed  in  the  fulfillment  of  my  official  duties,  and 
my  evenings,  when  not  at  the  theatre,  (which  I  found  a  great  aid  in 
acquiring  the  language,)  in  the  midst  of  this  pleasant  family.  The  ex* 
cellent  lady  at  the  head  of  it  had  once  belonged  to  one  of  the  wealthiest 
establishments  in  the  Republic.  The  revolutions;  and  a  series  of  mishapSj 
had  broken  her  fortunes ;  yet  they  could  not  deprive  her  of  her  talentSj 
her  accomplishments,  her  vivacity,  or  the  kindness  of  her  heart  and  tern* 
per.  Qualities  like  these  were  sure  to  endear  the  friends  of  her  better 
days,  and,  in  truth,  they  had  not  deserted  her.  It  was  thus,  that  in  her 
apartments,  over  a  quiet  game  of  monte,  where  a  thousand  nuts  were  the 
highest  stake ;  I  made  many  of  my  pleasantest  acquaintances,  both  male 
and  female,  in  Mexico.  Here  too  I  saw  the  better  phases  of  Mexican 
character,  in  private  life.  The  respect  for  age — -the  sincerity  of  friend- 
ship— the  results  of  reading  and  education — and  the  honest,  unpretending 
naturalness  of  character  for  which,  over  all  other  people  I  have  ever  met 
with,  I  think  the  best  of  them  are  remarkable. 

It  has  been  taxed  upon  people  who  live  in.  fine  climates — where  the 
warm  sun  and  the  teeming  fields  woo  constantly  to  the  open  air — that  they 
want  the  social  virtues.  They  possess  no  fireside — that  focus  into  which 
the  family  affections  are  gathered  and  cherished.  I  will  not  pretend  that 
the  Mexicans  are  a  home  people,  like  the  Germans,  the  English,  and,  per- 
haps, ourselves ;  but  it  is  equally  certain,  that  they  are  not  without  those 
social  tastes  and  reunions,  which  make  their  dwellings  a  favorite  re- 
sort. It  is  true,  that  much  time  is  devoted  by  fashionable  society  to  the 
morning  mass,  the  evening  drive,  and  to  the  theatre ;  but,  in  a  population 
of  200,000,  these  should  not  be  regarded  as  the  characteristics  of  the 
whole  people.  It  is  this  partial  examination  of  a  class,  and  an  identifica- 
tion of  its  peculiarities,  habits  or  tastes,  with  those  of  the  whole  nation, 
that  is  the  error  of  English  tourists  in  their  descriptions  of  our  own 
country.  It  is  neither  by  the  most  fashionable  society — which  is  always 
the  most  corrupt,  deceitful  and  unsubstantial ;  nor  by  the  very  lowest  class, 
which  is  always  the  most  vicious — that  we  are  to  characterize  nations. 
In  the  sober,  patient,  patriotic,  toilsome,  well  taught,  frugal,  middle  ranks 
of  life — the  true  virtues,  and  noblest  features  of  a  people  are  most  evi- 
dent ;  and,  although  these  characteristics  may  be  found  both  among  the 
very  highest  and  the  very  lowest,  yet  it  is  alone  in  this  class  that  they 
may  be  sought  with  certainty. 

****** 

The  houses  of  the  Mexicans  are  usually  built  of  the  strongest  materials, 
either  brick  or  stone,  and  without  much  architectural  pretension.     They 
are  erected  around  patios,  or  court-yards,  and  are  from  30  to  40  feet  front 
4 


50  MEXICO. 

on  the  street — the  grand  saloon  being  generally  the  length  of  the  whole 
house.  On  the  ground-floor  are  the  porter's  lodge,  offices  and  carriage- 
house.  From  this,  a  flight  of  steps  leads  to  an  entresol,  devoted  to  the 
domestics,  while  the  upper  story  is  universally  the  fashionable  and  best 
one.  Here  the  family  dwells  in  perfect  seclusion  from  the  street  and 
neighbors,  and  the  arcade  which  fronts  their  doors  is  filled  with  the  choi- 
cest fruit  and  flower-trees  in  constant  bloom.  Above  all  this  is  the  azotea, 
or  flat,  paved  roof,  a  delightful  retreat  on  summer  nights.  The  front 
windows  of  the  houses  are  all  guarded  by  balconies  covered  with  gayly- 
colored  awnings;  and  on  days  of  festival,  when  filled  with  the  gay  throng 
of  Mexican  women,  and  hung  with  tapestry  and  velvet,  they  present  a 
most  brilliant  appearance. 

The  carriage,  and  ever-harnessed  mules,  stand  constantly  in  the  court- 
yard below;  and  the  postillion  is  ready  to  mount  and  sally  forth  at  a 
moments'  notice  until  after  dark,  when  the  large  front  gate  is  closed,  locked 
and  barred ;  and  the  house  becomes  as  quiet  and  secure  as  a  castle,  with 
which  no  communication  from  without  is  permitted,  until  you  tell  your 
name,  or  signify  to  the  porter  the  object  of  your  visit.  Until  this  cere- 
mony has  passed,  no  bolt  is  drawn  in  the  wicket  or  latch  raised  to  admit 
you ;  and  the  caution  is  extremely  necessary,  on  account  of  the  frequent 
robberies  that  have  been  committed  by  allowing  unknown  persons  to  enter 
after  dark. 

It  has  been  $aid  that  "  cleanliness  is  a  virtue,"  and  I  think  that  polite- 
ness should  be  classed  next  to  it.  Cleanliness  does  not  always  proceed 
from  the  mere  love  of  personal  or  domestic  purity,  but  is  often  a  mere 
evidence  of  respect  for  the  opinion  of  the  world.  The  same,  perhaps,  may 
be  said  of  politeness.  Be  it  what  it  may,  however,  it  is  one  of  the  most 
agreeable  sacrifices  of  social  intercourse.  The  "  old  school "  seems  to 
have  taken  refuge  among  the  Mexicans.  They  are  formally,  and  I  think, 
substantially,  the  politest  people  I  have  met  with.  Bowing  and  shaking 
hands  are  common  all  the  world  over,  and  in  our  country  we  do  it  stiffly, 
and  often  gruffly  enough.  Savages  salute  one  another  with  a  grunt,  and 
the  Chinese  touch  noses.  But,  in  Mexico,  there  is  something  more  than 
mere  nonchalant  nods  of  recognition  and  farewell.  If  you  enter  a  Mexi- 
can's house,  there  is  no  rest  among  the  inmates  until  you  are  made  per- 
fectly at  ease,  and  your  hat  and  cane  taken  from  you.  The  lady  does 
not  sit  on  the  sofa — nod  when  you  come  in  as  if  it  were  painful  to  bend 
or  rise — talk  with  you  about  the  weather  as  if  your  rheumatisms  made 
you  a  species  of  walking  barometer — and  then  expect  you  to  nod  again, 
and  take  yourself  off'  as  a  bore;  but  a  frankness  and  a  warmth  are  im- 
mediately thrown  into  the  manner  of  the  whole  household  as  soon  as  you 
appear.  No  matter  what  they  may  be  engaged  in,  or  how  much  occu- 
pied ;  all  is  forgotten  in  a  moment,  and  they  are  entirely  at  your  service. 
Here,  in  the  United  States,  I  have  paid  fifteen  or  twenty  visits  on  a  morn- 
ing with  a  fashionable  lady.  To  do  so  in  Mexico — a  man  would  be  set 
down  as  an  oddity.     A  visit  is  a  visit — it  is  intended  to  be  something. 


MANNERb. 


51 


People  feel  that  they  can  see,  look  at,  and  pass  each  other  in  the  street ; 
and  they  think  a  stare  of  five  minutes  from  a  chair,  as  meaningless  as  a 
stare  on  one's  legs  in  the  highway.  In  the  saloon,  they  regard  it  proper 
to  devote  much  time  to  the  interchange  of  opinions  sociably ;  and  they 
look  upon  indifference  or  a  distrait  air,  or  what  would  elsewhere  be  called 
fashionable  ease,  as  little  better  than  rudeness. 

Upon  entering  a  room,  after  any  unusual  absence,  if  well  known  to  all 
the  members  of  a  family,  you  go  through  the  process  of  an  embrace,  and 
the  health  and  occupations  of  every  member  of  your  family  are  minutely 
and  affectionately  inquired  for.  After  a  while,  if  there  are  girls  in  the 
house,  a  little  music  will  be  given,  or  their  drawings,  embroidery,  or 
other  pretty  works  displayed,  as  you  are  supposed  to  have  an  interest  in 
such  things.  And  if  you  are  a  particular  favorite,  the  lady  of  the  man- 
sion, who  indulges  in  a  cigarritto,  will  take  a  delicate  one  from  her  golden 
etui,  light  it,  touch  it  to  her  lips,  and  present  it  to  you. 

At  parting,  the  ceremony  is  very  formal.  You  bid  good-bye  with  an 
embrace,  or,  if  less  acquainted,  with  a  profound  bow  to  each  individual ; 
you  turn  at  the  door  of  the  saloon,  and  bow  again ;  the  master  of  the  house 
accompanies  you  to  the  head  of  the  stairs,  where  you  shake  hands  and 
bow  again ;  you  look  up  from  the  landing  of  the  first  flight  of  stairs,  and 
find  him  ready  with  another ;  and  as  you  pass  through  the  court-yard 
below,  (if  he  like  you,  or  you  happen  to  be  a  person  of  consideration,) 
you  find  him  gazing  from  among  the  flowers  over  the  balustrade,  and  still 
gracefully  nodding  farewell !  Before  this  finale  it  is  not  very  safe  to  put 
on  your  hat. 


4* 


LADY     GOING      TO     MASS. 


52  MEXICO. 

There  are  few  things  more  beautiful  than  the  salutation  of  a  Mexican 
lady.  Among  themselves  they  never  meet  without  embracing.  But  to 
men  and  strangers,  on  the  street,  they  lift  the  right  hand  to  near  the  lips, 
gently  inclining  the  head  toward  it,  and  gracefully  fluttering  their  fingers, 
send  forth  their  recognition  with  an  arch-beaming  of  the  eye  that  is  almost 
as  bewitching  as  a  kiss. 

The  universal  conclusion  of  the  day  with  a  fashionable  lady  in  Mexico, 
is  the  theatre.  She  begins  with  mass,  to  which  she  walks  in  the  morning 
with  her  mantilla  gracefully  draped  around  her  head,  and  falling  in  folds 
of  splendid  lace  over  her  breast  and  shoulders.  But  the  night  must  end 
in  full  dress  at  the  opera  or  theatre.  It  is  as  regular  and  as  much  a 
matter  of  course  as  her  meals. 

It  is  then  you  may  behold  the  Mexican  woman  in  perfection.  And 
yet,  to  confess  the  truth,  I  cannot  say  that  they  are  beautiful  according 
to  our  ideas  of  beauty  in  the  United  States. 

You  do  not  see  those  charming  skins  and  rosy  complexions,  nor  do 
you  observe  that  variety  of  tint  which  springs  from  the  mingling  of  many 
nations  on  our  soil ;  but  there  is,  nevertheless,  something  in  Mexican 
women,  be  they  fair  or  dark,  that  bewitches  while  you  look  at  them :  it  is, 
perhaps,  a  universal  expression  of  sweetness  and  confiding  gentleness. 

There  is  not  much  regularity  of  features  ;  no  "  Attic  foreheads  and 
Phidian  noses;"  no  "rose-bud  lips  whose  kisses  pout  to  leave  their  nest;" 
no  majestic  symmetry  to  compel  admiration ;  but  their  large,  magnificent 
eyes,  where  the  very  soul  of  tenderness  seems  to  dwell,  and  their  natural 
grace,  conquer  every  one.     Their  gait  is  slow,  stately,  majestic. 

The  commonest  woman  of  the  middle  ranks  you  encounter  on  the 
streets,  with  but  a  fanciful  petticoat,  and  her  shawl  or  reboso,  struts  a 
queen — her  feet  small  almost  to  deformity.  Her  figure,  though  full  to 
embonpoint,  you  never  think  too  fat ;  her  lively  enthusiasm  always  seems 
tempered  and  delicately  subdued  by  the  softness  of  her  eye,  and  you 
feel  that  her  complexion,  sallow  or  dark  as  it  often  is,  is  yet  no  more  than 

"  The  embrowning  of  the  fruit  that  tells 
How  rich  within  the  soul  of  sweetness  dwells." 

I  give  opposite,  sketches  of  the  costume  of  the  lower  class  of  females,  as 
you  see  them  constantly  in  the  house  and  on  the  street,  with  and  without 
the  shawl,  or  reboso.  Without  it  the  dress  is  scarcely  any  dress  at  all : 
one  garment — besides  a  petticoat — braced  with  a  sash  around  the  waist. 
while  the  hair  falls  in  a  long  plait  down  the  back.  With  it — their  cos- 
tume is  made  up.  Flung  gracefully  over  the  left  shoulder  and  passed 
across  the  mouth — you  see  nothing  but  the  eyes,  which  are  her  greatest 
charm,  and  she  never  attempts  to  conceal  them  or  neglect  their  power. 

In  speaking  of  the  fine  eyes,  the  beautiful  feet,  and  the  queenly  tread 
of  the  Mexican  ladies,  and  their  costume,  I  should  not  forget  to  mention 
that  an  embroidered  India  crape  shawl,  blazing  with  all  the  colors  of  the 


MEXICAN     BELLES, 


53 


WITH     AND     WITHOUT      THE      REBOSO. 


rainbow,  and  a  painted  fan,  are  indispensable  portions  of  a  complete  dress. 
The  fan  is  none  of  your  new-fangled  inventions  of  feather  and  finery,  but 
the  old-fashioned  reed  and  paper  instruments  used  by  our  grandmothers. 
The  opening  and  shutting — the  waving  and  folding  of  these  is  an  especial 
language.  They  touch  them  to  their  lips — flirt  them  wide  open — close 
them — let  their  bright  eyes  peep  over  the  rim — display  their  jewelled  hands 
and  witching  eyes,  and,  in  fact,  carry  on  a  warfare  of  graceful  coquetry 
from  behind  these  pasteboard  fortresses,  that  has  forced,  ere  now,  many 
a  stout  heart  to  cry  for  quarter ! 


LETTER    X. 

THE    CITY    OF    MEXICO. 
SENTIMENTAL    BUTCHER    AND    PROFESSIONAL    BEGGARS. 

It  is  the  custom  for  most  of  the  small  dealers  to  hawk  their  wares  about 
the  streets,  and  indeed,  }rou  may  thus  be  supplied  with  all  the  necessaries 
of  life.  The  aguador  brings  you  water.  The  butcher  sends  his  ass  with 
meat.  The  Indians  bring  butter,  eggs,  fruit,  and  vegetables  ;  the  boat- 
men, fresh  fish  from  the  lake  ;  and  cakes  and  sweetmeats  are  carried  daily 
in  trays  to  your  door.  There  are,  nevertheless,  a  market  and  stalls,  or 
small  shops  in  the  streets.  In  a  large  and  poor  population  like  this  the 
competition  must  necessarily  be  very  great. 

One  of  the  butchers  in  the  Calle  Taenia  always  amused  me.  His 
shop  is  about  the  size  of  a  stall,  the  whole  front  being  open  to  the  street, 
with  a  fine  game-cock,  tied  by  the  leg  on  the  sill.  Suspended  from  the  e  oil- 
ing, and  but  two  or  three  feet  from  the  doorway,  hangs  the  entire  carcass 
of  a  beef;  at  a  short  distance  behind  is  the  counter ;  and,  in  the  rear  of 
this  again,  is  a  row  of  kids  and  delicate  morsels,  festooned  with  gilt  pa- 
per and  yards  of  sausages,  hung  in  the  most  tasteful  lines  and  curves. 
In  the  centre  of  this  carnal  show  rests  an  image  of  the  "  Holy  Virgin  of 
Guadalupe,"  under  whose  protection  he  thus  places  his  larder  and  his 
"  custom." 

The  most  interesting  figure,  however,  in  the  picture,  is  the  butcher 
himself;  a  sentimental-looking  fellow,  with  black  eyes,  curling  locks, 
and  altogether  a  most  captivating  personage,  barring  a  sort  of  oily  lustre 
that  polishes  his  skin.  I  invariably  find  him  lounging  romantically  over 
his  saw  and  cleaver,  strumming  his  guitar  to  half-a-dozen  housemaids, 
who,  doubtless,  are  attracted  to  his  steaks  by  his  omorous  staves.  It  is 
rare  to  see  such  a  mixture  of  meat  and  music.  What  would  be  said  with 
us  at  home,  to  see  the  celebrated  Jones  or  Smith,  in  the  Fulton  market, 
mounted  on  his  block,  with  a  blue  ribbon  about  his  neck,  and  a  dozen 
damsels  grouped  around  him,  listening,  with  rapt  air.  to  the  pet  morceau 
of  the  last  opera!  Yet  the  suggestion  might  be  useful  in  these  days, 
when  invention  is  taxed  to  the  utmost  for  now  modes  of  attracting  the 
people.  In  Mexico  at  any  rate  it  is  characteristic,  and  I  have,  therefore, 
note  1  it. 

*  *  *  *  *  * 


in  i:  Hi.n  bkgcaii. 


BEGGARS.  55 

Go  where  you  will  in  this  city,  you  are  haunted  by  beggars.  Beg- 
gary  is  a  profession  ;  but  it  is  not  carried  to  quite  the  extent  that  it  is  in  some 
of  the  Italian  States,  and  especially  the  Sicilian  dominions. 

The  capital  employed  in  this  business  is  blindness,  a  sore  leg,  a  de- 
crepit father  or  mother,  or  a  helpless  child ;  in  the  latter  case,  a  stout 
hearty  boy  usually  straps  the  feeble  one  on  his  back,  and  runs  after  ev- 
ery passer  beseeching  succor.  With  such  a  stock  in  trade,  and  a  good 
sunny  corner,  or  wall  of  a  church  door,  the  petitioner  is  set  up  for  life. 
Placed  in  so  eligible  a  situation,  their  cry  is  incessant  from  morning 
to  night:  "Senores  amicos,  por  el  amor  de  dios  ;"  "  for  the  love  of  the 
blessed  Virgin  !"  "  by  the  precious  blood  of  Christ !"  "by  the  holy  mys- 
tery of  the  Trinity  !"  repeated  with  many  variations  between  their  eter- 
nal scratchings,  winking  of  lids  over  sightless  balls,  and  the  display 
of  maimed  limbs  and  every  species  of  personal  deformity.  There  is  no 
"  poor-house"  in  Mexico,  to  which  such  vagrant  wretches  are  forced  to  go. 

One  blind  beggar,  remarkably  well  dressed,  and  a  person  who  has  evi- 
dently enjoyed  better  fortunes,  takes  up  his  place  on  the  seat  around  the 
chief  fountain  of  the  Alameda,  every  day  at  noon,  and  is  attended  by  a 
couple  of  servants  ;  his  respectful  demeanor  is,  doubtless,  a  valuable  capital. 

Another  beggar  has  a  burly  porter  to  carry  him  seated  in  a  chair  on  his 
back. 

Then  there  are  silent  beggars — l<poveri  vergognosi," — as  you  see  in 
Italy ;  men  who  make  no  oral  demand  for  charity,  but  crook  their  bodies, 
and  bow  their  concealed  faces,  in  such  a  shape  of  interrogative  supplica- 
tion, that  the  heart  must  be  hard  that  could  resist  them.  One  of  this  spe- 
cies particularly  arrested  my  notice.  I  never  met  him  by  daylight,  and 
he  may  not  have  been  what  he  appeared  to  be;  but  often  at  midnight, 
when  returning  from  the  theatre,  I  have  encountered  him,  cold  and  shiv- 
ering under  the  portales.  He  seemed  to  be  at  least  80  years  of  age ;  was 
bent  almost  double,  had  a  shocking  bad  cough,  and  squeaked  out  in  the 
most  piping  treble  you  ever  heard,  that  "  he  was  just  waiting  for  some  one 
to  take  him  horned    He  had  been  waiting  thus  for  many  a  year! 

They  all  have  different  voices  according  to  the  length  of  time  they  have 
been  employed.  There  are  your  old  sturdy  beggars  who  bellow  out  their 
ritual ;  then  the  modest  novice ;  then  an  old  fellow  who  never  utters  a 
distinct  word,  but  rolls  on  the  ground  and  howls,  as  if  with  pain ;  the  while 
his  eyes  glance  from  right  to  left  to  see  how  it  operates  !  Near  my  dwel- 
ling, at  a  church  door,  always  sat  a  gray-headed  blind  man,  who  was  as 
much  a  fixture  as  one  of  the  pillars  of  the  edifice.  The  oldest  neighbors 
could  not  remember  when  he  first  came  there.  He  usually  arrived  about 
noon,  as  soon  as  the  shadow  of  the  church  fell  over  his  wonted  seat  and 
afforded  shade.  He  begged  stoutly  for  an  hour  or  so,  when  a  daughter 
brought  him  an  excellent  warm  dinner.  This  dispatched,  he  went  to  work 
again  with  the  "  por  el  amor  de  dios,"  until  he  literally  sang  himself  into 
a  siesta.     Yet  the  ruling  passion  never  deserted  him  even  in  sleep.     His 


56  MEXICO. 

head  nodded,  but  his  open  and  outstretched  palm  rested  on  his  knee — a 
permanent  money-box  ! 

Although  exhibitions  like  this  are  enough  to  shut  the  heart  in  a  coun- 
try where  the  earth  yields  almost  for  the  asking,  yet  there  are  cases  of 
misery  that  do  not  appeal  in  vain. 

A  poor  little  beggar-boy  attracted  my  attention  by  haunting  the  door  of 
the  Gran  Sociedad.  We  noticed  him  first  by  seeing  something  coiled  up 
in  the  corner  of  the  portal,  which  looked  like  a  dirty  puppy  dog,  shiver- 
ing with  the  cold.  Slowly,  however,  at  our  approach,  it  unwound  itself 
from  the  lair,  and  a  poor  little  boy  tottered  toward  us  with  the  most 
wan  and  wretched  look  I  ever  beheld,  and  the  most  beautiful  black  eyes 
that  ever  appealed  for  charity.  He  was  a  personification  of  poor  Oli- 
ver Twist — a  perfect  little  atomy.  We  gave  him  a  real,  and  he  trotted 
off  delighted :  yet  his  feeble  limbs,  around  which  there  was  scarcely  any 
clothing,  refused  to  carry  him  twenty  steps :  he  tottered  and  fell  against 
the  wall  to  which  he  clung  for  support.  I  went  to  him  again :  "  Muero 
de  los  frios,  senor," — I  am  dying  of  the  chills,  said  he,  in  his  little  piping 
voice,  rendered  almost  inarticulate  from  pain,  accompanied  by  that  slow 
motion  of  the  head  from  side  to  side  indicative  of  suffering. 

We  put  a  small  blanket  over  him,  gave  him  shoes  and  food,  and  thus 
strengthened  and  warmed,  he  gradually  reached  home. 

The  next  day  he  made  his  appearance  again,  without  shoes,  shirt,  or 
blanket,  and  with  no  covering  but  his  ragged  trowsers  of  cotton,  tied 
across  his  shoulder  with  a  piece  of  twine,  and  an  old  handkerchief  about 
his  neck.  It  was  decided  that  he  was  a  professional  beggar,  and  his 
pains  were  but  capital  acting. 

I  did  not  think  so,  however;  and  while  others  speedily  rejected  him,  I 
determined  to  satisfy  myself  that  a  human  being  would  voluntarily  starve 
himself  until  the  bones  peered  through  his  shrunken  skin,  before  I  would 
deny  the  sufferer  the  comfort  of  a  daily  morsel.  Upon  inquiry,  I  found 
that  his  story  was  true  :  that  he  was  the  only  child  of  a  bed-ridden  mother, 
who,  confined  with  rheumatism  to  a  mat  stretched  on  the  earthen  floor  of 
a  hovel  in  the  suburb,  had  been  unable  to  provide  food  for  herself  or 
her  son  for  more  than  a  month.  Besides  this,  the  urchin  had  sold  the 
shoes  and  blanket  we  had  given  him  to  buy  bread  for  his  parent. 

He  was  a  regular  pensioner  afterward,  and  his  mother  recovered. 
The  last  time  I  saw  him  was  in  the  Alameda,  to  which  he  had  crawled, 
saying  that  the  "sunshine  felt  so  comfortable,  and  that  in  its  broad  walks 
he  did  not  suffer  so  much  from  the  'frios.'  " 

For  a  long  period,  after  this,  I  missed  the  urchin,  and  knew  not  what 
had  become  of  him ;  until  one  afternoon  passing  the  wall  of  the  convent 
of  Santa  Clara,  I  saw  a  man  trotting  along  at  the  usual  Indian  gait,  with 
a  tray  on  his  head  which  appeared  to  be  covered  with  roses.  Behind 
him  was  a  ragged  Upera,  in  tears,  with  her  long  black  hair  hanging  over 
her  shoulders.  As  the  man  passed  me,  I  looked  into  the  tray  and  found 
it  contained  a  corpse.     It  was  that  of  a  child  who  had  died  of  consump- 


THE     DEAD     BOY.  57 

tion.  The  flesh,  worn  to  the  utmost  emaciation,  was  stretched  tightly- 
over  the  prominent  bones ;  his  little  hands  were  bound  over  his  breast, 
with  a  single  thread  of  gold,  in  the  attitude  of  prayer  ;  the  body  was  sprin- 
kled with  faded  artificials,  and  its  mouth  was  perked  up,  and  its  lips 
parted,  as  if  the  sufferer  had  died  with  a  wail  of  pain. 

It  was  my  little  beggar-boy.     The  "frios"  had  been  too  much  for  him. 


LETTER    XI. 


A    BULL    FIGHT. 


I  was  told  after  my  arrival  in  Mexico,  that  unless  I  remained  some 
time  I  was  likely  to  lose  the  three  great  "  amusements"  of  Mexico,  to 
wit :  a  Revolution — an  Earthquake — and  a  Bull  Fight.  The  two  former 
I  would  gladly  have  dispensed  with  ;  and  as  to  the  latter,  civilization  had 
recently  introduced  the  Opera,  and  the  cadenzas  of  Italian  vocalists  had 
heen  substituted  for  the  roars  of  the  dying  bull. 

But  I  was  to  be  gratified  by  the  sight  of  at  least  one  of  these  recrea- 
tions. 

A  fight  came  off  rather  unexpectedly  in  the  Plaza  de  Toros,  an  im- 
mense circus,  erected  when  this  sport  was  in  its  palmy  days  in  Mexico. 

It  was  Sunday,  and  the  people  were  unoccupied.  The  idlers  had  a 
few  spare  medios,  picked  up  by  toil,  beggary  or  pilfering,  during  the  week, 
and,  as  to  the  rich,  it  was  expected  that  of  course  they  would  be  gratified 
by  the  sight  of  an  exhibition  from  which  they  had  been  long  debarred. 

I  have  a  great  objection  to  all  these  brutal  displays,  but  I  hold  it  to  be 
a  man's  duty  to  see  a  specimen  of  everything  in  the  course  of  his  life. 
In  Europe.  I  went  to  see  dissections  and  the  guillotine,  and  on  that  princi- 
ple, in  Mexico  I  went  to  a  bull  fight. 

The  expectations  of  the  projectors  of  the  day's  sport  were  not  disap- 
pointed. The  two  tiers  of  boxes  and  the  circle  below  of  this  immense 
theatre,  were  filled  to  the  very  brim  of  the  arena  with  not  less  than  eight 
thousand  men,  woynen  ami  children.  The  hour  of  opening  was  four 
o'clock — the  day  warm  and  cloudless — and  the  sun  shone  brightly  over 
the  motley  assemblage  in  their  gay  and  varied  costumes.  The  sunny 
side  of  the  edifice  was  devoted  to  the  plebs — the  other  half  to  the  patri- 
cians, or  half-a-dollar  payers,  who  thereby  enjoyed  the  luxury  of  shade. 

We  an  i\  ill  too  late  to  see  the  entrance  of  the  first  bull — he  was  already 
in  the  arena,  and  the  picadors  were  goading  him  with  their  long  lances, 
while  the  six  gayly-dressed,  lithe  and  active  matadors  teased  him  with 
red  cloaks,  which  they  flirted  within  a  few  feet  of  his  horns,  and  enabled 
them,  as  he  sprung  to  gore  the  garment,  to  display  their  agility  in  avoid- 
ing the  deadly  blow  of  his  horns. 


A    BULL    FIGHT.  59 

After  annoying  him  thus  with  cloaks  and  lances  for  about  ten  minutes, 
a  trumpet  was  sounded  ;  and  immediately  a  dozen  banderillos,  or  small 
lances,  covered  with  gilt  and  flowered  paper,  were  stuck  in  his  neck, 
making  him  bound  with  rage  at  the  assailant  as  he  felt  every  new  sting 
of  the  cruel  weapons. 

This  done,  the  crowd  circled  around,  and  he  stood  in  the  midst,  snort- 
ing, pawing  the  earth,  veering  his  head  from  one  portion  of  the  ring 
to  the  other,  beholding  everywhere  an  armed  foe  pointing  at  him  with  a 
lance,  and  howling  as  if  to  dare  them  to  attack.  But  he  was  effectually 
tamed. 

Another  blast  from  the  trumpet,  and  two  of  the  matadors  approached 
stealthily  from  the  rear,  and  plunged  lances  surrounded  with  fireworks, 
into  the  skin  of  his  neck.  Snorting,  roaring,  blazing,  cracking,  he 
bounded  over  the  arena  lashing  himself  with  his  tail,  and  dashing,  with- 
out purpose,  at  everything. 

At  the  third  blast  of  the  trumpet,  the  chief  matador,  who  now  made  his 
first  appearance,  stepped  forth,  and  proceeded  to  the  judge's  gallery  for 
the  sword,  to  dispatch  the  animal.  By  this  time  the  fireworks  had  burned 
out,  and  the  bull  had  been  teased  toward  the  southern  barricade  of  the 
theatre.  Panting  with  fatigue,  rage  and  exhaustion,  he  stood  at  bay. 
The  matador  (an  Andalusian,  in  pumps,  silk  stockings,  and  a  tight-fitting 
purple  dress,  embroidered  with  bugles,)  was  a  person  of  herculean  frame, 
and  his  manly  form,  in  the  perfection  of  human  beauty  and  strength, 
contrasted  finely  with  the  huge  mass  of  bone  and  muscle  in  the  beast. 

He  wound  his  red  cloak  around  the  short  staff  which  he  held  in  his 
left  hand,  and  approached  the  bull,  grasping  in  his  right  his  Avell-poised 
sword.  The  bull,  worried  by  the  red  cloak,  bounded  at  him.  As  the 
animal  stooped  to  gore,  the  matador  leapt  to  the  left  with  the  bound  of  a 
deer,  and  receiving  the  beast  with  the  whole  shock  of  his  weight  and 
spring  on  the  point  of  his  weapon,  passed  it  through  his  heart,  and  laid 
him  dead  without  a  struggle  at  his  feet.  The  circus  rang  with  applause 
at  the  successful  stroke.  Drawing  out  his  blade,  black  with  blood,  the 
matador  wiped  it  on  the  cloak,  and  bowing  to  the  multitude,  restored  it  to 
the  judge. 

The  trumpet  sounded  again  :  a  rope  was  noosed  around  the  beast's 
horns,  three  gayly-caparisoned  horses  were  led  in,  the  carcass  was  hitched 
to  them,  and,  at  another  blast  of  the  trumpet  they  dragged  the  body,  at 
full  gallop,  out  of  the  circus.  A  shovel-full  of  fresh  earth  was  thrown 
over  the  pool  of  blood ;  the  trumpet  was  again  sounded ;  the  eastern  bar- 
ricade thrown  open,  and  in  bounded  the  second  bull. 

Almost  blinded  by  his  sudden  plunge  into  daylight  from  the  utter  dark- 
ness of  his  den,  and  astounded  by  the  shouts  and  jeers  of  the  spectators, 
he  rushed  to  the  centre  of  the  arena,  and  paused.  His  head  wandered 
from  side  to  side,  as  if  seeking  for  something  at  which  to  tilt.  He  pawed 
the  earth,  lashed  his  back  with  his  tail,  and  was  evidently  "  game." 


60  MEXICO. 

In  a  moment,  the  three  picadors  were  at  him  with  their  long  lances ; 
and,  in  the  next,  two  of  them  were  rolling  in  the  dust,  and  trampled  by 
the  savage  beast.  This  brought  applause  from  the  multitude ;  and  an 
honest  Irishman  near  me  shouted,  at  the  top  of  his  lungs,  "  bravo,  bull !" 

The  matadors,  however,  were  instantly  at  him  with  their  red  cloaks, 
and  distracting  his  attention  from  the  fallen  picadors,  gave  them  time  to 
rise  and  mount — at  least  one  of  them,  I  should  say,  for  the  horse  of  the 
other  had  been  gored  in  the  stomach,  and  as  he  rose,  his  entrails  trailed 
along  the  ground ! 

The  usual  routine  was  gone  through  with  this  bull  as  with  the  first; 
and  at  length  the  trumpet  sounded  for  the  chief  matador  to  receive  the 
sword. 

But  this  was  evidently  not  an  animal  to  be  trifled  with ;  and  the 
courageous  Andalusian  approached  him  warily.  As  he  came  up  with 
the  bull,  the  beast  was  near  the  edge  of  the  barricade,  and  foaming 
with  rage.  His  hair  was  yet  blazing  from  the  explosion  of  the  crackers. 
The  Andalusian  flirted  the  red  cloak  in  his  eyes,  and,  turning  as  usual 
to  the  right  to  give  the  blow  as  the  animal  sprang,  he  lucklessly  missed 
his  aim,  and  was  caught  at  a  yard's  distance  between  the  palisade  and 
the  beast.  A  bound  over  the  inclosure  saved  him,  while  the  bull's  horns 
were  driven  against  the  boards,  with  a  force  that  made  the  theatre  ring 
and  the  strong  timbers  quiver. 

Directly,  however,  was  the  stout-hearted  fighter  again  on  the  sands  and 
taunting  his  foe.  Another  spring — another  wave  of  the  cloak  in  the 
beast's  eyes — and  his  sword  was  plunged  up  to  the  hilt  in  his  neck,  the 
point  penetrating  the  skin  and  hair  and  shining  out  on  his  other  side,  just 
above  the  right  shoulder.  Yet  the  wound  was  not  fatal,  and  the  beast 
bounded  on  madder  than  ever.  A  picador  came  at  him,  and  was  tram- 
pled in  the  dust.  Another  came  on,  and  his  horse,  too,  was  tossed  in  the 
air;  yet,  preserving  his  balance,  he  alighted  on  his  feet,  and  as  his  horse 
rose  from  his  fall,  he  rose  with  him,  seated  on  his  saddle  ;  at  the  same 
time,  with  admirable  presence  of  mind,  slinging  his  lasso,  which  caught 
on  one  horn  but  unfortunately  slipped  off.  Unsuccessful  as  was  this  act, 
the  self-command,  the  horsemanship,  and  the  graceful  skill  of  the  picador, 
brought  down  a  storm  of  applause. 

Meantime,  the  Andalusian  had  recovered  his  wind,  and  was  ready  for 
another  attack  on  his  unconquered  foe ;  but  this  time  he  made  the  attack 
unarmed.  Mad  as  the  animal  was,  and  goaded  by  the  lances  sticking  in 
his  back,  his  skin  scorched,  and  the  weapon  thrust  through  his  body,  yet  the 
matador  approached  bravely ;  he  threw  his  cloak  once  more  on  the  beast's 
eyes,  and,  with  a  leap  over  his  horns  as  he  stooped,  caught  the  handle  of 
the  sword  and  drew  it  out  streaming  with  blood. 

What  with  annoyance,  and  exhaustion  from  the  loss  of  blood,  the  bull's 
strength  was  by  this  time  well  nigh  spent.  He  made  for  the  door  in  the 
barricade  whence  he  had  been  admitted  to  the  arena.  He  paused  at  the 
gate — the  blood  pouring  from  his  wound.     It  was  evident  he  was  dying, 


A    BULL    FIGHT.  61 

and  all  attacks  were  at  once  abandoned.  He  had  fought  so  bravely  that 
picadors,  matadors,  coleadors,  and  all  the  troop  of  the  arena  drew  round 
him  in  a  circle,  as  if  to  look  on  the  death-struggle  of  a  hero.  All  seemed 
struck  with  admiration !  the  leperos  in  the  galleries,  even,  were  hushed  to 
profound  silence. 

The  bull  stood  a  moment  as  if  uncertain  what  to  do.  I  confess  that  the 
poor  wretch  seemed  to  me  to  possess  intellect — an  intellect,  stung  by  the 
reproach  of  strength  foiled  by  an  inferior  and  despised  foe. 

He  felt  his  limbs  grow  feebler.  He  attempted  to  run,  but  his  legs  re- 
fused to  move.  He  lifted  his  feet  convulsivly — waved  his  tail — opened  his 
eyes  as  if  alarmed  by  a  sudden  nervous  fear,  and  fixed  them  with  a  fierce 
stare  on  the  blood  which  was  pouring  in  a  stream  before  him.  He  tried 
to  run ;  reeled  twice,  but  recovered  his  balance.  A  matador  then  came 
again  before  him  with  his  cloak  and  a  short  dagger,  to  put  an  end  to  the 
painful  scene ;  but  as  he  approached,  the  beast  swayed  himself  forward 
with  his  lips  drawn  up,  and  the  foam  covering  his  teeth — drew  himself  up 
still  and  stiff  as  a  statue,  for  a  dying  effort  of  power — then  suddenly 
bending  his  head  to  the  earth,  sprang  at  the  matador  and  fell  dead — 

"  Foiled,  breathless,  bleeding,  furious — to  the  last !" 
*  *  *  *  *  *  *  *. 

This  was  the  best  fight  of  the  evening.  Five  more  bulls  were  brought 
out,  but  nearly  all  proved  craven.  None,  however,  were  killed  by  the 
matador  at  the  first  blow,  which  rather  lowered  the  mob's  opinion  of 
his  skill.  Some  of  the  animals  were  caught  by  the  tail,  which,  twisted 
around  the  high  pommel  of  the  saddles  of  the  coleadors,  while  their 
horses  were  brought  to  a  sudden  halt,  threw  the  bulls  on  their  sides. 
These,  however,  were  the  utter  cowards.  Others  were  caught  with  the 
lasso  around  the  horns  or  heels,  and  I  had  thus  the  first  opportunity  of 
seeing  the  perfection  obtained  by  most  Mexican  horsemen  in  the  use  of 
this  useful  instrument.  One  of  the  bulls  bounded  over  the  palisade, 
among  the  spectators,  within  a  few  feet  of  me ;  but  he  was  so  contemptible 
a  beast,  that  he  seemed  more  pleased  to  get  rid  of  the  crowd  than  the 
crowd  was  to  get  rid  of  him.  He  was  of  course  sacrificed  in  some  very 
ignoble  manner. 

As  the  evening  sports  ended,  and  even  before  sunset,  the  moon  rose 
in  her  calm  majesty,  casting  her  mild  light  on  the  multitude  in  that  bloody 
circus.  The  towers  and  dome  of  a  church  overlook  the  walls  of  the  arena 
on  the  east,  and  the  bells  called  the  crowd  from  that  scene  of  carnage  on 
the  Sabbath  evening,  to  the  adjacent  retreat  of  peacefulness  and  religion! 
As  I  went  home,  I  could  not  help  asking  myself,  if  I  had  spent  those  hours 
profitably  ?  It  is  true  that  there  are  "  sermons  in  stones,  and  good  in 
everything;"  and  the  contrast  of  life  and  death — the  passage  of  a  crea- 
ture from  robust  and  active  health,  and  the  full  enjoyment  of  every  phys- 
ical power,  to  death  and  utter  oblivion — was,  it  is  equally  true,  a  sermon 
and  a  lesson.  But  to  how  many  ?  Was  there  a  lepero  there,  who  went 
away  taught,  thoughtful  or  moralizing  ? 


62  MEXICO. 

I  must  confess,  that  I  can  regard  these  festivals  but  with  a  feeling  of 
unqualified  disgust,  both  at  the  scene  itself,  and  at  the  gradual  destruc- 
tion of  the  finer  sentiments  which  such  exhibitions,  frequently  repeated 
before  all  classes,  must  inevitably  produce. 

When  the  Romans  had  exhausted  the  whole  round  of  natural  amuse- 
ments,  they  invented  those  of  the  circus  ;  and,  not  contented  with  the  civi- 
lized butchery  of  the  brute  creation,  in  process  of  time  they  matched  man 
against  beast,  and  man  against  man.  It  was  the  extreme  of  refinement — 
the  height  of  expensive  luxury — the  termination  of  that  vicious  circle  of 
society,  where  civilization  merges  into  barbarism.  It  was  an  omen  of 
the  speedy  decline  of  that  mighty  empire. 

The  exhibition  of  the  slaughter-house,  as  a  sport,  can  tend  alone  to 
foster  a  brutal  passion  for  blood.  Death  becomes  familiarized  as  a  play- 
thing to  the  multitude.  They  make  a  clown  of  the  grim  monster.  They 
put  him  as  a  joker  on  the  arena  for  Sabbath,  sports ;  and  the  day  that  is 
assigned  as  a  period  of  repose,  thankfulness,  love,  and  remembrance  of 
the  blessed  God,  is  converted  into  a  school-time  of  the  worst  passions  that 
can  afflict  and  excite  the  human  heart. 

It  may  be  said,  that  this  is  not  true  of  all  classes.  I  grant  it,  and  reply 
that  although  all  classes  visit  the  circus,  yet  the  majority  of  the  spec- 
tators is  doubtless  composed  of  the  lowest  ranks,  requiring  most  moral  in- 
struction, and  least  addicted  to  reasoning.  With  such  a  population  as  that 
of  the  leperos  of  Mexico,  (men  scarcely  a  remove  from  the  beasts  whose 
slaughter  they  gloat  on,)  these  scenes  of  murder,  in  which  bulls,  matadors 
and  picadors,  are  often  indiscriminately  slain,  can  only  serve  to  nourish 
the  most  wicked  passions,  and  to  nerve  the  ignorant  and  vile  to  deeds  of 
most  daring  criminality. 

It  will  be  a  matter  of  sincere  congratulation  for  Mexican  patriots,  when 
this  remnant  of  barbarism  is  abolished  in  their  country,  and  the  thousands 
which  are  annually  expended  in  bull-fights  throughout  the  Republic,  are 
devoted  to  the  education  or  rational  amusement  of  the  people. 


LETTER    XII. 


THE    VIRGIN    OF    GUADALUPE  AND    HER    FESTIVAL. 


The  12th  of  December  is  the  Festival  of  the  "Virgin  of  Guadalupe," 
(the  Patron  Saint  of  Mexico ;)  and  as  the  history  of  this  personage,  and 
the  ceremonies  in  her  honor  are  rather  singular  ;  and  the  shrine  where 
she  is  worshipped  is  one  of  the  most  magnificent  in  the  Republic,  I  will 
give  you  some  account  of  them. 

The  church  lies  about  three  miles  from  the  city,  at  the  foot  of  the 
Sierra  that  rises  from  the  plain  on  the  north.  The  great  Collegiate 
edifice  is  built  on  the  level  ground ;  but  the  ancient,  and  I  believe  the 
original  chapel,  is  on  the  top  of  an  adjacent  hill.  The  collection  of 
buildings,  devoted  to  this  saint,  form  a  little  village  of  themselves,  in- 
dependently of  the  small  town,  which  has  grown  up  in  the  process  of 
time  from  the  pickings  and  pilgrimages  to  the  sacred  shrine. 

On  the  day  in  question,  thousands  went  out  to  the  church  from  the  city 
of  Mexico.  From  early  in  the  morning,  the  magnificent  paved  road, 
built  to  this  spot,  in  the  palmy  days  of  the  Spanish  Empire,  was  cov- 
ered with  foot-passengers,  horsemen,  leperos,  Indians,  grandees  in  their 
sumptuous  coaches,  and  in  fact  by  all  the  population  of  the  town,  who 
could  either  walk,  or  afford  to  ride  at  their  own  or  others'  cost.  Not  a 
vehicle  was  to  be  had  in  the  Capital  for  love  or  money,  unless  begged  or 
hired  on  the  preceding  day. 

I  went  rather  late,  and  found  the  churches  crammed  to  suffocation; 
while  the  Archbishop  recited  mass,  and  the  President  and  the  high  officers 
of  state,  seated  under  a  canopy  of  crimson  velvet,  in  the  main  body  of 
the  building,  assisted  in  the  service. 

A  large  portion  of  the  crowd  was  composed  of  leperos,  in  their  greasy 
blankets ;  and  from  far  and  wide  in  the  Department  of  Mexico,  and  even 
from  some  others,  thousands  of  Indians  had  come  to  the  festival,  with 
their  wives  and  children.  In  such  a  crowd,  on  a  rather  warm  day,  and  in 
a  church  of  ordinary  size,  you  will  readily  agree  with  me  that  the  odor 
was  not  exactly  that  of  attar  of  roses — consequently  I  left  them  to  their 
devotions ;  and,  with  a  friend,  betook  myself  to  the  open  air  and  a  sur- 
vey of  the  premises. 


64  MEXICO. 

Yet  this  could  scarcely  be  called  an  escape  :  the  crowd  without  seemed 
quite  as  great  as  that  within.  In  the  Plaza,  over  part  of  which  an  awning 
was  spread  for  a  procession  at  the  close  of  the  ceremonies,  the  Indians 
had  erected  booths  where  they  displayed  their  wares,  and  were  driving  a 
profitable  trade  in  trinkets,  pictures  of  saints,  &c.  ;  a  mode  of  speculation 
which  they  imitated  from  the  priesthood,  who,  at  the  doors  of  the  churches, 
likewise  carried  on  a  brisk  business  in  selling  to  the  faithful  slips  of  crim- 
son ribbon,  about  two  feet  long,  with  a  pious  inscription,  and  medals  of  the 
Holy  Virgin,  for  sixpence   a-piece.      I  bought  one,  and  passed  on. 

In  the  shops  around  the  square  were  all  the  unoccupied  Mexicans. 
The  church  was  too  small  to  contain  them,  and  they  were  necessarily 
forced  to  retire  to  these  establishments  ;  where,  with  their  donzellas  of  the 
reboso,  they  luxuriated  on  lemonade,  oranges,  and  sweet  biscuits,  varying 
their  food  and  flirtations  with  a  choice  cigarrito. 

At  the  distance  of  about  two  hundred  yards  from  the  main  edifice,  an- 
other chapel  is  erected  over  a  spring  of  mineral  water.  This  is  regarded 
as  a  "  holy  well ;"  and  part  of  the  ceremonial,  upon  this  occasion,  is  to  dip 
the  fingers  in  the  sacred  stream,  and  to  make  with  it  a  sign  of  the  cross  on 
brow  and  breast.  In  all  such  seasons,  none  are  of  course  more  devout 
and  more  conscientious  in  the  performance  of  this  duty  than  the  Indians. 
They  believe  that  the  Virgin  herself  has  specially  consecrated  the  wa- 
ter ;  and  the  consequence  is,  that  a  simple  dip  is  by  no  means  sufficient. 
I  suppose  there  could  not  have  been  less  than  three  thousand  of  these  In- 
dians in  the  village,  half  of  whom  were  constantly  pressing,  squeezing, 
shouting,  with  their  women  by  their  sides,  and  their  children,  in  full  squall, 
strapped  to  their  backs ;  all  struggling,  either  to  approach  or  leave  the 
well.  Not  satisfied,  however,  with  a  dip  in  the  water,  they  felt  it  to 
be  a  religious  duty  to  wash ;  and  as  so  many  thousands  were  paddling 
in  maudlin  devotion,  the  well  became  necessarily  fouled,  notwithstand- 
ing its  sacredness.  In  addition  to  this,  as  all  could  not  reach  the  foun- 
tain itself,  multitudes  were  obliged  to  content  themselves  with  the  refuse 
that  drained  along  the  gutters,  after  having  served  for  the  ablutions  of  the 
more  fortunate.  The  consequence  was.,  that  a  more  besmeared  set  of 
wretches  was  never  displayed,  than  when  the  Indians  completed  their  pious 
lustrations  toward  evening.  But  even  this  did  not  exhaust  their  craving 
appetites  for  the  sacred  water  ;  and  every  one  who  could  buy,  borrow,  steal, 
or  own  a  vessel,  capable  of  containing  liquids,  bore  it  with  him  to  his 
distant  home  full  of  the  turbid  flood.  It  was  a  panacea  for  many  an  ill, 
and  perhaps  superior  in  efficacy  to  a  "  blessed  candle  !" 

From  the  door  of  the  edifice  over  the  well,  a  steep  stairway  strikes  up 
the  hill  side  of  Tepcyac,  to  a  church  on  the  summit ;  and  to  this,  it  is  the 
duty  of  all  to  perform  a  pilgrimage  in  the  course  of  the  day.  I  followed 
the  steps  of  the  multitude ;  but  as  the  church  was  crowded  even  more 
densely  with  natives  than  the  edifice  below,  I  refrained  from  entering, 
and  sat  down  on  a  pile  of  stones  to  enjoy  a  charming  view  of  the  Valley 


LEGEND    OF    THE    VIRGIN.  65 

and  lakes,  slumbering  in  the  misty  sunshine,  as  beautiful  as  the  days  of 
our  Indian  summer. 

The  steps  and  walls  that  led  to  this  shrine  were  once  in  perfect  order ; 
but  the  mountain  chapel  has  been  neglected,  and  suffered  to  decay  since 
the  holy  picture  was  placed  in  the  edifice  on  the  plain,  where  the  padres 
are  more  comfortably  nestled  than  on  the  spot  of  the  miraculous  gift. 

As  I  gazed  down  from  this  elevation,  I  was  struck  with  the  appearance 
of  a  curious  towering  mass  of  brick  and  mortar,  half  way  up  the  hill, 
that  looked  in  the  distance  like  a  sail.  Upon  inquiry,  I  learned  the  fol- 
lowing story  of  its  erection. 

Many  years  ago,  while  a  wealthy  Mexican  was  at  sea,  returning  from 
Old  Spain,  a  violent  storm  arose,  which  threatened  his  vessel  with  im- 
minent danger.  The  gale  grew  gradually  stronger  ;  the  vessel  leaked ; 
every  sail  was  lost,  and  hope  herself  seemed  to  have  deserted  the  ill-starred 
bark,  when  the  Mexican  bethought  him  of  the  patron  Virgin  of  his 
native  land.  In  a  moment  he  was  on  his  knees,  with  a  prayer  and  a  vow  to 
Guadalupe — a  vow,  that  if  she  listened  and  saved,  he  would  build  in 
Mexico  another  temple  to  her  glory  !  The  wind  lulled — the  sea  became 
calm — a  friendly  vessel  hove  in  sight — and  the  drowning  crew  was 
rescued. 

But  with  the  calm,  the  worshipper's  fervor  also  relaxed  ;  and  on  his  re- 
turn, instead  of  bestowing  thousands  in  the  adornment  of  at  least  a  costly 
altar  to  the  Virgin,  he  compromised  the  matter,  by  the  erection  of  the 
semblance  of  a  sail  in  brick  and  mortar  on  the  ascending  wall  side ! 
Whether  he  ever  trusted  himself  at  sea  again  after  such  faithlessness, 
the  legend  does  not  tell ! 

While  recounting  the  stories  of  this  spot,  it  would  be  improper  to  omit 
the  legend  of  the  Virgin  herself;  and  in  order  that  it  may  come  with  due 
authority,  and  not  rest  alone  upon  hearsay,  I  translate  the  anecdote  from 
a  sermon  of  the  Illustrious  Cardinal  de  Lorenzano,  Archbishop  of  Mex- 
ico, preached  by  him  in  the  Collegiate  church  in  1760. 

"In  the  year  1531,  ten  years  and  four  months  after  the  conquest  of 
Mexico,  the  Holy  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  appeared  on  the  mountain  of  Te- 
peyac.  The  matter  occurred  thus :  On  the  9th  of  December  of  that 
year  the  adventurous  Indian,  Juan  Diego,  a  native  of  Quatititlan,  went  to 
Tlaltelolco  to  study  the  Christian  doctrine,  inasmuch  as  it  was  there  taught 
by  certain  holy  Franciscan  monks.  Passing  by  the  mountain,  the  Most 
Holy  Virgin  appeared,  and  told  him  to  go,  in  her  name,  to  the  Illustrious 
Bishop  Don  Francisco  Juan  de  Zummarraga,  and  say  that  she  desired 
him  to  come  and  worship  on  that  spot.  On  the  10th  of  the  same  month 
Juan  Diego  returned  to  the  mountain,  and  the  Holy  Virgin  again  ap- 
peared, asking  him  the  result  of  his  commission.  Diego  replied,  that 
notwithstanding  his  efforts,  he  could  not  obtain  admission  to  the  Bishop. 
Then,  the  Virgin  answered,  'Return,  and  tell  him  that  I,  Mary  the 
Mother  of  God,  have  sent  you !'  Juan  Diego  carefully  executed  the 
5 


66  MEXICO. 

order,  but  the  Senor  Zummarraga  refused  him  credence  :  his  only  re- 
ply being,  that  he  must  have  some  token  to  satisfy  him  of  the  verity  of 
the  annunciation.  Again  Juan  Diego  returned  to  the  mountain  with  this 
message  of  the  Bishop,  and  delivered  it  to  the  Holy  Virgin,  who  appeared 
to  him  on  the  12th  of  December  for  the  third  time.  She  ordered  him  then 
to  ascend  the  mountain  of  Tepeyac,  cut  roses  and  bring  them  to  her. 
The  humble  and  happy  messenger  went,  notwithstanding  he  knew  full 
well  that  on  the  mountain  there  were  not  only  no  roses,  but  no  vegetation 
of  any  kind.  Nevertheless,  he  found  the  flowers  and  brought  them  to 
Mary  !  She  threw  them  in  the  tilma  (a  part  of  Indian  dress)  and  said  to 
him,  '  Return  once  more  to  the  Bishop  and  tell  him  that  these  flowers  are 
the  credentials  of  your  mission.'  Accordingly,  Juan  Diego  immediately 
departed  for  the  episcopal  residence,  which,  it  is  said,  was  then  in  the 
house  called  the  Hospital  del  Amor  de  Dios ;  and  when  he  found  himself 
in  the  presence  of  the  prelate,  he  unfolded  his  tilma  to  present  the  roses, 
when,  lo  !  there  appeared  on  the  rude  garment  that  blessed  picture  of  the 
Virgin,  which  now  after  centuries  still  exists,  without  having  suffered  the 
slightest  injury  !  Then  the  illustrious  Bishop  took  the  image,  and  placed 
it  in  his  oratory.  It  is  now  in  this  Collegiate  church.  The  Virgin  ap- 
peared again,  a  fourth  time,  to  the  Indian.  She  then  restored  to  health 
his  uncle,  named  Juan  Bernardino,  and  told  Diego — '  The  image  on  thy 
tilma  I  wish  called  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  !'  " 

Such  is  the  story  given  of  the  sacred  portrait,  the  original  of  which 
presides  over  the  destinies  of  Mexico;  whose  name — " Maria  de  Guada- 
lupe"— is  given  to  one  half  the  females  of  the  Republic,  and  whose  shrine 
is  one  of  the  wealthiest  in  the  world.  A  copy  of  this  picture  is  hung  in 
every  dwelling  in  Mexico,  a  household  god,  as  dearly  cherished  as  the 
little  clay  images  were  by  the  ancient  Indians.  The  motto  beneath,  "  Non 
fecit  taliter  omni  Nationi,"  is  full  of  pride  and  consolation. 

Toward  the  close  of  the  services  in  the  church  the  crowd  became  less 
dense,  and  I  ventured  within.  For  the  last  half  hour  1  obtained  a  good 
stand  directly  in  front  of  the  position  occupied  by  General  Santa  Anna, 
and  an  opportunity  was  thus  afforded  me  of  seeing  him  at  his  devotions. 
The  same  refinement  of  manner,  easy  grace,  and  perfect  decorum  which 
characterize  the  well-bred  Mexicans  in  their  dwellings,  adhere  to  them  in 
church  ;  and  the  President  and  his  little  military  court  fully  sustained 
upon  that  occasion  the  reputation  of  their  countrymen. 

That  night  I  saw  him  again  at  a  ball  given  by  General  Valencia,  in 
honor  of  his  wife;  who,  being  named  "Maria  de  Guadalupe  "  enjoys  this 
as  her  festal  day  as  well  as  the  saint.  The  ball,  the  music,  the  style,  and 
the  supper  were  all  excellent ;  and  although  I  went  with  a  headache  at 
ten,  I  did  not  leave  the  cheerful  walls  of  the  General  until  the  "  small 
hours"  of  next  morning.  This  ball  and  supper,  I  was  told  by  those  who 
prepared  it,  cost  our  host  the  sum  of  near  four  thousand  dollars ,  and 
from  this,  you  may  form  an  opinion  of  the  extravagance  of  living  and 


IMAGE    OF    THE    VIRGIN.  67 

luxuries  in  Mexico.     A  similar  entertainment  could  have  been  given  in 
the  United  States  for  less  than  five  hundred. 


Some  time  after  the  visit  to  Guadalupe,  of  which  the  above  is  a  sketch, 
I  drove  out  again  on  a  quiet  day  when  there  was  no  ceremonial,  to  see 
the  establishment  undisturbed  and  at  leisure.  The  capellan  politely 
offered  to  show  us  over  the  edifice,  and  point  out  the  various  objects  of 
interest. 

He  took  us  first  to  the  sacristy,  where  are  found  some  badly  painted 
pictures  and  tinsel  figures ;  and  thence  to  the  main  body  of  the  church, 
which,  in  architectural  proportion  and  chasteness  of  adornment,  is  the 
neatest  I  have  seen  in  Mexico.  The  ornaments  are  all  green  and  gold, 
on  a  white  polished  surface,  and  have  just  been  renewed. 

Candles  were  lighted  in  front  of  the  miraculous  portrait  of  the  Virgin ; 
the  capellan  knelt  for  a  moment  before  it,  and  then  drawing  aside  a 
curtain,  displayed  the  picture  itself. 


THE      VIRGIN     OF      GUADALUPE. 


The  altar  at  the  north  end,  and  the  canopy  and  pillars  around  it,  are  of 
the  finest  marbles.  Above  it,  in  a  frame  of  solid  gold,  covered  with  a 
crystal  plate,  is  the  figure  of  the  Virgin  painted  on  the  Indian's  tilma,  as 
represented  in  the  preceding  cut.  On  each  side  of  the  image,  within  the 
frame  and  extending  its  whole  length,  are  strips  of  gold  literally  crusted 
with  emeralds,  diamonds  and  pearls.  At  the  feet  of  the  figure  there  are 
again  large  clusters  of  the  same  costly  gems.  From  each  side  of  the  frame 
5* 


68  MEXICO. 

issues  a  circle  of  golden  rays,  while  above  it,  as  if  floating  in  the  air, 
hangs  the  figure  of  a  dove,  of  solid  silver,  as  large  as  an  eagle  ! 

Descending  from  the  altar,  you  lean  on  a  rail  of  gilded  silver.  The 
massive  candlesticks,  and  all  the  stands  and  reading-desks  are  of  sil- 
ver, as  is  also  a  score  of  figures,  some  three  feet  high,  for  lamps  and 
torches. 

From  the  front  of  the  altar  to  the  body  of  the  church,  in  which  are  placed 
the  choir  and  organ,  there  is  another  silver  hand-rail  and  balustrade  on 
both  sides  of  the  central  aisle.  The  choir  is  of  a  dark  rich  wood,  covered 
with  the  most  exquisite  carvings,  in  high  relief,  of  passages  in  the  life  of 
our  Saviour,  and  its  gates  are  beautifully  inlaid  with  silver.  The  seats 
of  the  clergymen  rise  above  each  other  in  a  double  row,  and  in  the  centre 
stands  a  massive  reading-desk,  most  gorgeously  wrought  of  the  precious 
metal. 

To  the  left  of  the  altar,  a  chapel,  containing  a  collection  of  sacred  relics, 
branches  off  from  the  main  edifice.  The  whole  eastern  end  of  this  is  a 
blaze  of  crystal  and  gilded  carvings,  piled  up  to  the  lofty  arched  roof; 
while  on  the  steps  are  two  tall  India  jars,  that  would  make  in  Europe  the 
fortune  of  a  china  hunter. 

As  I  left  the  door  of  this  apartment,  I  noticed  a  recently  painted  pic- 
ture, or  rather  frame  of  pictures.  It  represented  a  series  of  miracles 
wrought  by  the  Virgin  within  the  last  ten  years.  First,  a  husband  had 
stabbed  his  wife,  and  yet,  by  a  prayer  to  the  Saint,  she  was  healed  : 
Second,  a  child,  who  had  fallen  from  a  window,  was  miraculously  pre- 
served by  her  intervention :  Third,  a  woman,  passing  through  a  wood, 
encountered  a  robber,  who  attempted  to  force  her ;  yet,  an  opportune 
ejaculation  to  Guadalupe  winged  her  feet,  and  she  escaped:  Fourth, 
a  man  was  thrown  from  his  horse,  and  saved :  Fifth,  a  carriage  passed 
over  another  harmlessly  :  And  Sixth,  the  Virgin  saved  a  woman  from 
being  gored  by  a  bull. 

As  I  passed  around  the  church,  I  saw  a  variety  of  similar  mementoes 
hung  upon  the  walls — little  pictures  of  sick  women — of  others  praying — 
silver  arms  and  legs,  and  even  little  waxen  ones.  In  one  place  I  noticed 
two  braids  of  hair ;  the  vow,  doubtless  of  some  poor  Indian,  and  perhaps 
her  most  precious  gift.  I  was  told  in  Mexico,  by  a  person  who  has  seen 
it,  that  the  native  Indians  at  times  come  to  this  shrine,  and  play  before 
the  Virgin's  image  on  their  drums  and  flageolets. 

As  I  passed  through  the  door,  I  encountered  a  16pero-looking  fellow, 
who,  on  one  side,  offered  me  a  ticket  in  the  "  Lottery  of  the  Virgin,"  while 
on  the  other,  a  servitor  of  the  church  held  out  a  stock  of  red  ribbons 
"  with  the  measure  of  the  Virgin's  hands,"  and  metal  medals  of  Guada- 
lupe. The  latter  I  thought  a  better  investment  than  the  lottery;  and 
buying  one,  which  I  dipped  in  th«  blessed  well,  I  keep  it  as  a  memento 
of  the  visit  and  the  spot. 

For  the  curious  in  such  matters,  I  give  the  original  of  a  Sonnet  and 
Verses — and  the  promise  of  Indulgences,  in  honor  of  the  Virgin  : 


SONNET— INDULGENCES. 


69 


A  MARIA  SANTISIMA  BE  GUADALUPE. 

SONETO. 


Es 


isa  GUADALUPANA  encantadora, 
Madre  del  Hombre  Dios  y  tambien  mia, 
Baj6  del  cielo  al  Tepeyac  un  dia 
Para  ser  nuestra  insigne  Bienhechora. 

A  la  presencia  de  tan  Gran  Senora 
Fugo  la  sanguinaria  Idolatria, 
Como  la  pavorosa  Noche  humbria 
A  los  primeros  rasgos  de  la  Aurora. 

Al  Dios  Huitziloposili  destrozaron  ; 
Los  demas  Idolillos  demolieron  ; 

Y  £  Jesus  en  sus  templos  colocaron : 
Los  Pueblos  a  su  voz  se  convirtieron ; 

Y  cuanto  en  la  Conquista  les  quitaron  : 
En  tree  centurias  por  MARIA  obtuvieron. 


En  tres  siglos  cuantas  cosas 
El  tiempo  cruel  devor6  '..... 
Los  montes  ;  los  altos  monies 
Mudaron  de  situacion. 

Solo  esa  copia  divina 
Cual  el  dia  en  que  se  formo 
Permanece  en  un  Ayate; 
Como  que  es  obra  de  Dios. 

A  su  Madre,  Esposa  e  Hija 
Por  si  mismo  la  pint6, 
Donandola  a  los  Indianos 
En  prueba  fiel  de  su  amor. 


Esto  ciertamente  no  hizo 
Con  ninguna  otra  nation : 
Bendito  sea  una  y  mil  veces 
Por  tan  insigne  favor. 

Demosle  todos  las  gracias, 

Y  sea  la  iluminacion, 
Las  salvas  y  los  repiques, 

Y  los  ecos  del  tambor : 

La  prueba  de  nuestro  afecto ; 

Y  un  indicio  de  que  en  nos 
Nunca  entibiard  el  impio 
La  pristina  devocion. 


Se  suplica  el  adorno  6  iluminacion  en  el  Novenario  ;  y  se  advierte  &  los  fieles  que  los 
Illmos.  Sres.  Obispos  de  Puebla  y  Tarazona,  concedieron  80  dias  de  indulgencia  en 
cada  cuarto  de  hora  en  que  dichas  Imagenes  se  espongan ;  y  por  cada  Ave  Maria  que 
se  rezare  delante  de  cualquiera  de  ellas  500  dias  :  lo  mismo  se  gana  diciendo  Ave  Ma- 
ria, 6  solicitando  devotos.=Ultimamente,  el  Illmo.  Sr.  D.  Fr.  Jose  Maria  de  Jesus  Be- 
launzaran  por  si,  y  los  Illmos.  Sres.  Obispos  actuales  de  Puebla,  Michoacan,  Jalisco  y 
Durango  concedio  200  dias  de  indulgencia  por  cada  palabra  de  los  devocionarios  de  la 
Sma.  Sra. ;  por  cada  paso  que  se  diere  en  su  obsequio ;  por  cada  una  de  las  reverencias 
que  se  le  hagan ;  y  por  cada  palabra  de  la  misa  que  en  su  obsequio  el  sacerdote  y  los 
oyentes  digeren.  Otros  tantos  dias  concede  por  cada  cuarto  de  hora  en  que  se  espongan 
las  Efigies  en  los  balcones,  ventanas  e  puertas  para  la  adoracion  publics. 


LETTER   XIII. 

COURT   CEREMONIES.       GENERAL    SANTA    ANNA.       DIPLOMATIC    DINNER. 

For  some  time  after  the  installation  of  General  Santa  Anna  as  Pro- 
visional President  of  Mexico,  under  the  system  known  in  the  political 
history  of  that  country  as  the  "  Plan  of  Tacubaya,"*  a  difficulty  existed 
between  the  Government,  and  Ministers  of  foreign  nations,  as  to  the  eti- 
quette which  was  to  be  observed  on  public  occasions  when  it  became  neces- 
sary for  them  to  meet  ceremoniously.  To  such  an  extent  had  this  variance 
of  established  rules  been  carried,  that  upon  the  consecration  of  the  present 
Archbishop,  the  Envoy  from  France  deemed  it  proper  to  mark  his  disap- 
probation, by  retiring  with  his  legation  from  the  Cathedral. 

These  matters,  which  to  us  republicans  seemed  of  no  very  great  mo- 
ment except  as  they  had  been  rendered  so  by  the  Mexicans  themselves, 
were,  however,  at  length  satisfactorily  arranged ;  and  on  the  first  of  Jan- 
uary, 1842,  the  members  of  the  different  missions  were  invited  to  meet 
the  President  in  the  morning,  for  the  purpose  of  exchanging  the  usual 
courtesies  of  the  day,  and  to  partake  of  a  dinner  in  the  evening.  This 
invitation  was  sent  with  all  due  form  through  his  Excellency,  Mr.  De 
Bocanegra,  the  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs.  As  the  system  of  entertain- 
ment at  table  is  quite  a  novelty  in  Mexican  diplomacy,  the  invitation  was 
entirely  unexpected ;  and  it  was  hailed  by  the  whole  corps  as  indicative  of 
an  agreeable  change  in  our  future  intercourse. 

Accordingly  at  noon  on  the  first  of  January,  the  diplomatic  body,  in 
full  uniform,  met  at  the  apartments  of  the  Minister  of  Foreign  Relations 
in  the  Palace.  Here  again,  some  trifling  question  of  etiquette  was  started 
relative  to  the  precedence  of  the  Archbishop,  which  being  arranged,  the 
corps,  as  soon  as  it  had  been  joined  by  the  Ministers  of  State,  was  ush- 
ered to  the  hall  of  audience  by  an  aid-de-camp  of  the  President.     Passing 

*  The  revolution  of  1841,  after  several  fruitless  battles,  in  which  victory  seems  to  have  crowned  neither  side, 
and  several  as  fruitless  interviews  of  the  Chiefs  and  messengers  of  the  different  parlies,  was  at  length  terminated 
by  a  meeting  of  commanding  officers  at  Tacubaya  on  the  88th  of  September,  when  a  plan  was  agreed  upon  and 
signed  by  1S1  persons,  by  means  of  which  the  existing  Constitution  of  Mexico  was  superseded.  By  this  system, 
or  "  Plan  of  Tacubaya."  consisting  of  13  articles,  a  general  amnesty  was  proclaimed— a  call  of  a  new  Con- 
gress to  form  a  Constitution  agreed  upon— and  a  Junta  created,  to  be  named  by  the  General  in  Chief  of  the 
Army.  The  Junta  was  to  elect  the  Provisional  President,  who,  by  the  7th  article,  was  clothed  "  with  all  the 
powers  necessary  to  reorganize  the  nation  and  all  the  branches  of  administration  ;"  or,  in  other  words,  with 
supreme  power.  That  General  was  Santa  Anna.  He  selected  the  Junta,  and  the  Junta  returned  the  compli- 
ment by  selecting  him ! 


AUDIENCE     OF     THE    PRESIDENT.  71 

along  several  balconies  hung  against  the  wall  of  the  inner  court-yard,  we 
soon  reached  an  antechamber  filled  with  all  the  chief  personages,  both 
military  and  civil,  of  the  Republic,  and  we  were  at  once  conducted 
to  the  reception-room.  This  is  a  large  and  newly  furnished  apartment, 
plainly  painted  in  fresco;  its  walls  are  hung  with  ordinary  oil  pictures  of 
the  history  of  Napoleon,  and  the  floor  is  covered  with  a  rather  common 
carpet. 

At  the  south  end  of  the  room  a  Chair  of  State,  with  the  flags  and  arms 
of  Mexico  richly  embroidered  in  gold  and  colors  on  its  velvet  cushions, 
was  placed  for  the  President,  under  a  canopy  of  crimson  edged  with  gold. 
On  either  side  of  this,  against  the  wall,  were  chairs  for  the  four  Ministers, 
and,  immediately  in  front  of  the  President's  seat,  running  the  length  of 
the  room,  beneath  the  great  chandelier,  were  ranged  two  rows  of  chairs 
facing  each  other,  for  the  diplomatic  corps.  Here  we  took  our  stand, 
according  to  the  rank  and  length  of  residence  of  the  respective  Envoys 
in  the  country. 

In  a  few  moments,  the  Ministers  of  State  (who  had  retired  after  we 
were  placed,)  entered  from  a  room  behind  the  audience-chamber,  and 
were  directly  followed  by  General  Santa  Anna,  in  the  full  uniform  of  the 
Chief  of  the  Army — blue  and  red,  richly  embroidered  with  gold.  You 
are  aware,  that  at  the  battle  of  Vera  Cruz  with  the  French,  in  the  year 
1838,  one  of  his  legs  was  shattered  by  a  cannon-ball,  as  he  pursued  the 
enemy  on  their  retreat  to  their  boats.  The  limb  was  badly  amputated, 
and  of  course  he  limps  along  on  a  wooden  substitute,  with  the  aid  of  a 
cane.  But  the  defect  does  not  take  from  the  dignity  and  manliness  of  his 
air  and  carriage. 

He  advanced  to  his  chair  under  the  canopy ;  his  Ministers  placed  them- 
selves on  either  side  of  him,  and  the  room,  which  had  hitherto  been  only 
occupied  by  ourselves,  was,  at  a  signal  to  the  aid-de-camp  in  waiting, 
filled  with  a  brilliant  cortege  of  officers  in  full  dress  uniforms. 

As  soon  as  silence  and  order  were  obtained,  the  President  bowed  grace- 
fully to  us,  and  received  an  obeisance  in  return.  Mr.  Pakenham,  the 
British  Envoy,  as  the  oldest  resident  Minister,  then  advanced,  and  in  the 
name  of  the  diplomatic  body,  made  an  address  of  congratulation  in  Spanish. 

The  General  listened  with  attention  and  interest,  and  when  the  Minister 
had  concluded,  replied  briefly,  but  with  considerable  hesitation  of  manner 
and  an  awkward  twisting  of  his  cane  and  chapeau,  showing  that  he  was, 
at  least  on  that  occasion,  more  of  the  soldier  than  the  speaker.  As  he 
seated  himself  after  concluding  his  reply,  he  motioned  us  to  our  chairs, 
while  the  rest  of  the  spectators  still  remained  standing.  A  short  conver- 
sation then  followed  between  him,  Mr.  Pakenham,  and  Mr.  Oliver,  the 
Spanish  Envoy,  who  were  immediately  in  front  of  him ;  and  at  the  first 
pause  we  rose,  advanced  to  him  singly  and  bowed ;  walking  slowly  to  the 
door  at  the  north  end  of  the  apartment,  we  turned  on  its  sill  and  bowed 
again,  both  of  the  salutations  being  gracefully  returned  by  him :  and  thus 
ended  the  morning  visit  of  ceremonious  congratulation ! 


72  MEXICO. 

I  have  been  so  minute  in  repeating  to  you  the  details  of  this  cere- 
mony, not  because  I  deem  any  account  of  bows  and  formal  speeches 
interesting  to  a  reader ;  but  because  such  a  scene  has  occurred  in  a 
Republic,  before  the  President  of  a  Republic,  and  in  a  National  Palace 
surrounded  with  soldiery,  amid  the  beating  of  drums,  the  braying  of  trum- 
pets, and  all  the  paraphernalia  of  a  court.  Such  a  detail  sounds  oddly  to 
one  who — entering  a  door  often  opened  without  a  porter — passing  through 
no  lines  of  grim  guards — amid  no  military  pomp  or  parade — approaches 
the  President  of  our  own  more  favored  land,  and  finds  him  seated  in  his 
plain  parlor,  by  a  comfortable  grate,  habited  in  neat  but  homely  dress ; 
and  ready,  without  ceremony,  to  grasp  your  hand  and  welcome  you  to  his 
fireside. 


We  left  the  Palace  at  one  o'clock,  and  entering  our  carriage,  proceeded 
to  pay  the  customary  visits  of  form  to  all  our  friends,  on  the  first  of  Jan- 
uary. We  found  numbers  of  people  at  home,  and  left  a  corresponding 
quantity  of  cards  for  those  who  were  engaged  in  the  same  duty  as  our- 
selves. 

It  was  a  pleasure  to  reach  home  once  more,  and  to  get  rid  of  the  stiff  uni- 
form in  which  my  limbs  had  been  cased  for  several  hours.  Accustomed 
all  my  life  to  the  plain  and  easy  coat  of  civil  life,  and  donning  gold  lace 
that  day  for  the  first  time,  I  felt,  I  suppose,  very  much  the  sensations  of 
"the  hog  in  armor;"  and  I  was  glad  after  that  essay,  to  find  but  few 
occasions  on  which  full  dress  was  requisite. 

As  the  bell  tolled  for  Oracion,  Mr.  Ellis  and  myself  mounted  the  car- 
riage once  more,  and  soon  reached  the  Palace. 

In  the  anteroom,  two  aids-de-camp  of  the  President  met  and  conducted 
us  to  the  audience-room,  now  brilliantly  lighted  with  lamps  and  chande- 
liers. The  saloon  was  sprinkled  over  with  a  gay  company  of  officers 
and  diplomats  in  full  dress.  Santa  Anna  soon  entered  from  his  private 
apartments,  and  taking  a  seat  near  the  upper  end  of  the  room,  his  friends 
gathered  sociably  around  him.  As  soon  as  all  were  seated,  Mr.  Ellis 
presented  me  privately  to  him.  He  took  my  hand  in  both  of  his,  and 
with  an  air  of  great  cordiality  and  a  winning  smile,  addressed  me  some 
complimentary  words,  inviting  us  to  take  Mats  near  him. 

The  total  repose  and  quietness  of  the  company  was  precisely  what  1 
desired.  It  afforded  me  an  opportunity  to  take  a  sort  of  mind  portrait  of 
the  Warrior  President;  and  seated  for  an  hour  within  the  sound  of  his 
voice,  at  the  distance  of  a  few  feet,  I  had  an  excellent  opportunity  to  do 
so.  His  demeanor  in  conversation  is  mild,  earnest  and  gentlemanly. 
He  uses  much  gentle  gesture  as  soon  as  he  becomes  animated,  and  seems 
to  speak  with  all  his  soul,  without  losing  command  over  himself  and  his 
feelings. 

I  have  since  seen  Santa  Anna  in  his  coach,  surrounded  with  guards 
and  all  the  pomp  of  the  military,  at  the  review  of  8000  troops ;  in  church 


SANTAANNA.  73 

at  prayer ;  in  the  ball-room  ;  in  the  cock-pit,  betting ;  in  the  audience- 
room  ;  at  the  banquet ;  and  in  private  interviews  of  delicate  diplomacy, 
when  the  political  interests  of  the  two  nations  were  at  stake.  No  one 
can  easily  forget  him ;  and  I  have  delayed  describing  him  until  now  be- 
cause I  have  been  unwilling  to  deceive  myself  or  others.  According  to 
public  opinion,  he  is  a  riddle  in  character  ;  he  surely  is  not  so  in  appear- 
ance, and  if  his  person  and  his  manners  are  not,  as  with  others,  to  be 
taken  as  a  fair  index  of  the  man,  he  is  either  an  arch-hypocrite,  or  a 
capital  actor. 

In  person,  General  Santa  Anna  is  about  six  feet  high,  well  made,  and 
of  graceful  bearing,  though  he  stumps  along  on  an  old-fashioned  wooden 
peg,  rejecting,  as  uncomfortable,  all  the  "mock  legs"  with  patent  springs 
and  self-moving  inventions,  which  have  been  presented  to  him  by  his  flat- 
terers from  all  parts  of  the  world.  His  dress,  as  I  have  said  before,  is 
on  all  public  occasions  that  of  a  high  officer  of  the  army ;  and  his  breast 
is  covered  with  richly-gemmed  decorations. 

His  brow,  shaded  with  black  hair  somewhat  sprinkled  with  gray,  is 
by  no  means  lofty,  but  narrow  and  smooth.  Although  his  whole  head 
is  rather  small,  and  perhaps  rather  too  long  for  its  breadth,  it  has,  how- 
ever, a  marked  and  boldly-defined  outline,  indicating  talent  and  resolu- 
tion. His  nose  is  straight  and  well  shaped,  and  his  brows  knit  in  a  line 
over  close  and  brilliant  eyes,  which  are  said  to  flash  with  fire  when 
aroused  to  passion.  His  complexion  is  dark  and  sallow,  and  his  temper- 
ament evidently  bilious.  His  mouth  is  the  most  remarkable  feature.  Its 
prominent  expression,  when  at  rest,  is  that  of  mingled  pain  and  anxiety.  In 
perfect  repose,  you  would  think  him  looking  on  a  dying  friend,  with  whose 
sufferings  he  was  deeply  but  helplessly  sympathizing.  His  head  and  face 
are  those  of  an  attentive,  thoughtful,  melancholy  but  determined  character. 
There  is  no  ferocity,  vindictiveness,  or  ill-temper  in  his  expression ;  and 
when  his  countenance  is  lighted  up  by  pleasant  conversation,  in  which  he 
appears  to  enter  eagerly  though  with  a  timid  and  subdued  voice  ;  and  when 
he  puts  on  that  sweetly  wooing  smile,  which  seems  too  tranquil  ever  to  ripen 
into  a  laugh ;  you  feel  that  you  have  before  you  a  man,  who  would  be 
singled  from  a  thousand  for  his  quiet  refinement  and  serious  temper  ;  one 
who  would  at  once  command  your  sympathy  and  your  respect ;  a  well- 
bred  gentleman,  and  a  resolute  soldier,  who  can  win  by  the  solicitation 
of  an  insinuating  address,  or  rule  by  the  authority  of  an  imperious  spirit. 
Such  is  a  portrait  of  the  man  who,  since  the  outbreak  of  the  Mexican 
Revolution,  has  played  a  chief  part  in  the  drama  of  the  time,  and  has 
fought  and  forced  his  way  to  eminence  from  the  humblest  rank.  The 
destroyer  and  builder  up  of  many  systems  and  men,  he  has  not  always 
been  on  the  side  of  republicanism,  according  to  the  liberal  and  enlight- 
ened notions  of  the  North ;  but  it  is  sincerely  to  be  hoped,  that  he  is  too 
deeply  pledged  as  an  old  soldier  and  brave  fighter  in  the  cause  of  liberty, 
now  to  shrink  back  into  the  folly  of  despotism. 


74  MEXICO. 

While  the  hour  passed  in  which  I  sat  looking  at  and  listening  to  this  re- 
markable person,  the  company  in  the  saloon  gradually  thickened.  Here 
a  newly  made  Colonel,  the  child  of  the  new  revolution,  in  as  new  and 
bright  a  uniform  ;  there  a  veteran  General,  in  the  time-stained  dress, 
tarnished  trappings,  and  old  cut  coat  of  the  ancient  regime.  Here  a  knot 
of  European  diplomatist*,  blazing  with  their  stars  ;  and  there  the  old 
Archbishop,  with  his  venerable  gray  locks  falling  on  his  violet  robes,  while 
another  dignitary  of  the  church  stood  by  him  in  velvet  and  lace,  with  a 
cross  of  large  diamonds  and  topazes  hung  round  his  priestly  throat  by  a 
collar  of  gems,  and  "ever  and  anon  "  taking  snuff,  in  a  manner  that  dis- 
played a  finger  which  almost  blinded  by  the  flash  of  its  diamonds.  The 
dress  of  every  person  in  the  room,  in  fact,  was  rich  and  tasteful,  except 
that  of  one  distinguished  citizen  of  Mexico,  and  a  priest  in  attendance  on 
the  Archbishop — who  adhered,  amid  all  the  show,  to  humble  and  respect- 
able black. 

After  an  hour's  delay,  which  added  to  the  sharpness  of  our  poorly  stayed 
appetites,  dinner  was  announced.  Santa  Anna  led  the  way,  and  in  the 
dining-room  we  found  our  places  indicated  by  cards  on  the  soup-plates. 

The  table-service  was  tolerably  good,  although  there  was  no  such  dis- 
play either  of  silver,  porcelain,  or  cut-glass,  as  we  see  on  hundreds  of  less 
courtly  tables  in  the  North  ;  nor  were  there  any  "  gold  spoons  "  for  Con- 
gressmen  to  cavil  with.  The  cookery  (French  and  English,)  was  capital, 
and  the  courses  innumerable.*  The  wines  and  the  conversation  went  off 
with  spirit ;  and,  indeed,  the  whole  entertainment  was  most  agreeable, 
except,  that  during  the  repast  six  of  the  President's  aids-de-camp  stood  be- 
hind his  chair.  Their  position  was,  I  feel  confident,  most  painful,  (at  least 
to  all  the  foreigners;)  and  although  they  performed  no  menial  offices, 
yet  the  act  was  inelegant,  unrepublican,  unnecessary,  and  in  excessively 
bad  taste.  I  hope  never  again  to  be  forced  to  witness  such  a  scene,  nor 
to  sit  at  table  while  such  men  stand. 

Thus  passed  two  hours  and  a  half,  enlivened  by  the  military  bands  of 
the  Palace,  playing  gay  airs  with  remarkable  taste  and  skill  in  the  pauses. 
Near  ten  we  all  retired  (without  the  universal  cigar)  to  the  reception-room, 
where  tea  and  coffee  were  handed  before  we  departed. 

As  we  passed  the  windows  of  the  dining-room,  we  saw  the  aids-de-camp 
at  dinner  in  our  lately  deserted  places;  and  I  sincerely  trust  as  they  had 
so  long  but  feasted  on  the  fumes  of  our  earlier  dinner,  that  they  had 
something  more  substantial  than  the  cold  and  broken  remains  of  our 
splendid  repast. 

In  the  palace  yard  below,  hundreds  of  soldiers  were  lolling  drowsily 
on  the  stone  seats,  or  bundled  up  in  their  blankets  stretched  on  the  pave- 
ment  within  the  gateways ;  and  as  we  left  the  portal,  the  band  in  the 
balconies  above  sent  over  the  still  square  the  parting  strains  of  its  beau- 
tiful music. 

♦This  entertainment  was  prepared  by  a  celebrated  French  cook  in  Mexico,  who  chareed  the  moderate  sum 
of  825  a  head  for  forty  persons,  exclusive  of  the  wines. 


AUTOGRAPHS. 


75 


I  made  several  efforts  while  in  Mexico,  to  procure  a  portrait  of  General 
Santa  Anna  for  the  purpose  of  presenting  it  to  you  ;  but  I  could  find  no 
engraving  or  lithograph,  and  the  oil  pictures  were  most  wretchedly  exe- 
cuted, without  doing  justice  to  his  very  characteristic  face.  In  this  age  of 
autographs,  however,  when  all  persons  collect,  and  some  few  even  under- 
take to  read  a  man's  mind  in  his  signature ;  I  have  thought  that  those  of 
the  President  and  of  the  late  Emperor  Iturbide,  might  not  be  uninteresting, 
and  I  therefore  subjoin  them.  That  of  Santa  Anna  is  a  firm,  clear,  and 
distinct  one ;  while  Iturbide's,  though  strong  and  decided  enough,  in  its 
lines,  has  still  a  straggling  manner,  which  indicates  perhaps  too  much 
the  weakness  of  many  parts  of  that  hero's  character. 


t^^cjo  ,    y/9. 


V 


^y^^L  A  ifec^£) 


W5  ■  ^  (rti.^c  (A/ 


LETTER    XIV. 


ST.    ATJGUSTIN    DE    LAS    CTJEVAS,    AND   THE    FEAST    OF    SAN    AUGUSTIN.       GAM- 
BLING  AND   COCK-FIGHTING. 

San  Atjgustin  is  one  of  the  most  charming  villages  in  the  neighborhood 
of  Mexico.  It  lies,  like  most  of  the  other  villages,  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountains,  south  of  the  city,  and  is  reached  by  a  level  road  about  twelve 
miles  long,  leading  through  some  of  the  most  beautiful  farms  in  the  Val- 
ley. Here,  not  only  are  immense  herds  of  cattle  grazed  and  large  quan- 
tities of  grain  cultivated,  but  you  see  extensive  plantations  of  the  maguey 
aloe,  or  Agave  Americana,  from  which  the  favorite  drink  of  the  natives 
is  made,  in  the  valleys  of  Puebla  and  Mexico.* 

When  the  plant  reaches  the  age  of  seven  years,  it  is  usually  ready 
to  bloom.  Upon  the  appearance  of  the  first  symptoms  of  a  bud,  the  centre 
stalk  is  cut  out,  and  a  bowl  hollowed  in  the  middle  of  the  large  leaves ; 
into  this,  for  several  days,  the  juice  of  the  plant  exudes  plentifully ;  and 
as  the  bowl  fills  at  certain  periods  during  the  day,  it  is  sucked  into  a  long 
gourd  by  the  Indian  laborers,  who  transfer  it  from  this  to  hog-skins.  In 
these  it  is  taken  to  the  haciendas,  slightly  fermented  in  large  vats  lined 
with  bull-hides,  whence  it  is  again  transferred  to  skins,  and  so  carried 
to  the  city  or  the  shops  and  sold.  It  is  really  amusing,  thus  to  behold 
the  skin  of  a  stout  porker  injected  with  the  heady  liquid — his  legs  stick- 
ing out,  and  even  the  remnant  of  his  tail  twisting  with  its  wonted  curve ! 

The  cultivation  of  the  maguey  is  one  of  the  most  profitable  in  the  Val- 
ley ;  the  outlay  is  calculated  generally  at  about  two  dollars  per  plant, 
and  the  return  is  from  seven  to  ten,  according  to  the  size  of  it.  I  cannot 
say  that  the  flavor  is  pleasant,  though  it  varies  greatly  in  different  parts 
of  the  country.  I  have  tasted  some  in  Mexico  that  had  been  sent  as  a 
present  from  a  hacienda  near  Puebla,  which  was  delicious ;  but  the  ordi- 
nary liquid  sold  in  the  shops,  seemed  to  me  very  like  sour  lemonade 
improved  by  the  addition  of  cream-of-tartar.  It  was  like  the  famous  wine 
of  one  of  the  vallies  that  pours  its  stream  into  the  Rhine,  with  which  the 
old  women  of  that  neighborhood  darn  their  stockings.  One  drop,  it  is 
said,  put  on  any  ordinary  hole,  draws  it  up  for  ever  and  securely  like  a 
purse-string! 

♦This  plant  is  one  of  the  moit  useful  in  Mexico.  'It  makes  an  excellent  fence  while  it  is  crowing  ;  after  it 
arrives  at  perfection,  pulque  is  extracted  from  its  stalk:  the  leaves  are  then  either  cut  up  as  food  for  animals,  or 
are  manufactured  into  rope,  twine,  coarse  Indian  cloth,  or  wrapping-paper  of  unequalled  toughness 


GAMBLING.  77 

The  road  to  St.  Augustin  is  remarkably  insecure  from  robbers ;  many- 
persons  have  been  attacked,  and  there  are  still  several  suspicious  spots 
where  the  rascals  are  supposed  to  hover  on  the  watch.  I  therefore  never 
ventured  out  except  with  a  large  company,  or  on  days  when  some  public 
amusement  was  likely  to  fill  the  country  with  strangers. 

The  16th  of  May  is  set  down  in  the  calendar  as  the  day  of  the  year 
dedicated  to  St.  Augustin,  and  this  village  is  appropriated  by  the  Mexi- 
cans to  the  celebration  of  his  festival.  Yet,  unlike  most  other  festivals, 
this  one  appears  to  have  little  or  nothing  to  do,  either  with  religion  or  the 
saint,  unless  they  have  a  version  of  his  story  unknown  to  other  nations. 

As  on  the  occasion  of  the  Feast  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe,  the  road 
was  filled,  after  daylight,  with  passengers  in  coaches,  on  horseback, 
in  diligences,  and  even  on  foot.  This  is  a  frolic,  chiefly  for  the  great, 
the  wealthy  and  the  fashionable,  (as  those  of  Los  Remedios  and  the  Vir- 
gin, are  for  the  mass  of  the  people,)  and  gambling  is  the  chief  bait  and 
attraction. 

The  square  in  the  centre  of  the  village  was  fitted  up  with  temporary 
booths,  and  devoted  to  all  sorts  of  festivity,  play  and  music,  for  the  lower 
classes,  while  many  of  the  adjoining  dwellings  were  adorned  in  magnifi- 
cent style  for  the  upper  ranks  who  sported  nothing  but  gold  and  silver. 

Indeed,  a  chance  is  offered  to  all  upon  this  occasion.  Every  man  who 
has  anything  to  lose,  or  the  hope  of  winning,  has  the  opportunity  pre- 
sented.    There  is  no  lack  of  temptation. 

First,  there  are  the  humblest  booths  in  the  square  where  small  sums 
of  copper  alone  are  played ;  next,  there  are  others  where  copper  and 
reals,  or  medios,  are  permitted ;  next,  those  for  copper  and  dollars ;  then 
roulette,  for  all  stakers  ;  then  banks  of  silver  alone  ;  then  banks  of  silver 
and  gold  ;  and  lastly,  banks  where  nothing  but  gold,  and  that  usually  in 
doubloons,  is  ever  ventured.  You  thus  perceive,  that  the  opportunity  is 
liberally  presented  for  every  man's  purse  to  become  "  small  by  degrees 
and  beautifully  less." 

It  is  estimated  that  25,000  doubloons  or  $400,000,  are  annually  placed 
in  these  banks,  and,  as  at  least  half  that  sum  is  brought  on  the  ground 
to  bet  against  them,  the  amount  of  money  lost  and  won  is  enormous. 
This  year  all  the  banks  lost  except  one,  and  its  owners  were  exceedingly 
dissatisfied  because  their  winnings,  during  the  three  days  of  the  festival, 
amounted  to  only  25  per  cent. ;  yet  you  will  imagine  how  great  must 
have  been  their  gains,  when  this  very  bank  had  at  one  time  lost  near  two 
thousand  doubloons/ 

The  saloons  where  gold  is  played  are  most  tastefully  fitted  up  in  cool 
and  airy  situations.  A  long  table,  covered  with  green  cloth,  is  placed  in 
the  centre,  and  in  the  middle  of  this  lie  the  shining  heaps,  rolls,  and 
piles  of  gold.  Around,  sit  the  patient  and  silent  players.  You  do  not 
see,  as  in  France,  the  iron  lip,  frowning  brow,  pale  visage,  and  clenched 
hand — indicative  of  anxiety,  remorse,  and  the  lust  of  greedy  gain.     The 


78  MEXICO. 

Spaniard  takes  it  with  the  nonchalance  of  eastern  fatalism.  Nothing  dis- 
concerts, disturbs,  or  forces  him  to  utter  an  exclamation  of  pleasure  or  a 
sigh  of  pain — but  he  sits  in  stoic  silence  receiving  his  ounces,  if  he  win, 
without  eagerness,  or  seeing  them  swell  the  bank  without  sorrow,  if  he 
lose. 

The  game  of  montt  has  become  part  of  the  very  nature  of  the  inhabit- 
ants of  Southern  America.  Accustomed  in  the  olden  times  under  the 
Colonial  Government,  to  immense  wealth,  "  wealth  (as  the  old  people 
describe  it,)  in  which  they  literally  swam,"  gold  lost  its  value  and  be- 
came but  a  counter,  by  means  of  which  they  passed  their  idle  hours  in 
an  agreeable  excitement  that  never  ruffled  or  elated  them.  This  habit- 
ual regard  for  the  game  has  descended  from  sire  to  son,  and  the  keeping 
of  a  table,  or  its  ownership,  is  not  esteemed  disreputable,  as  in  other 
countries.  On  the  contrary,  the  largest  sums  are  avowedly  furnished 
by  most  respectable  bankers,  and  the  sport  is  held  to  be  a  species  of 
legitimate  trade. 

Yet,  great  is  the  distress  produced  in  Mexico  by  gambling.  While  a 
hundred  establishments  are  opened  in  St.  Augustin  for  three  days,  there 
are  not  less  than  hundreds,  in  the  city  of  Mexico,  open  daily  during  the 
whole  year  !  The  consequence  is,  that  although  the  wealthiest  and  bold- 
est betters,  who  venture  their  200,  400,  or  even  1000  doubloons  on  a  sin- 
gle card  at  St.  Augustin,  play  only  there,  or  but  once  or  twice  a  year ; 
yet  the  constant  drain  on  the  small  gamblers  is  kept  up  day  after  day 
and  night  after  night  in  the  Capital.  Is  it  to  be  wondered  then,  amid  a 
nation  of  such  habits — so  prodigal,  proud,  and  easily  ruined,  that  persons 
who  venture  and  lose  their  all  on  a  single  stake,  or  habitually  live  by 
the  risks  of  fortune,  betake  themselves  at  last  to  the  road,  and  rob  with 
the  pistol  instead  of  the  cards  ? .  Both  are  short  cuts  to  fortune  or  the 
gallows. 

We  adjourned,  at  two  o'clock,  from  the  gambling-houses  to  the  Cock-Pit. 
The  President,  General  Santa  Anna,  and  General  Bravo,  with  their  suites, 
occupied  one  of  the  centre  boxes  of  the  theatre,  while  the  rest  were  filled 
with  the  beauty  and  fashion  of  Mexico.  It  is  the  vogue  for  women  of 
family  and  respectability  to  attend  these  festivals,  their  great  object  being 
to  outshine  each  other  in  the  splendor  and  variety  of  their  garments.  The 
rage  is  to  have  one  dress  for  mass  at  ten  o'clock,  one  for  the  cock-pit, 
another  for  the  ball  at  the  Calvario,  and  a  fourth  for  the  ball  in  the 
evening.  These  again  must  be  different  on  each  succeeding  day  of  the 
festival ! 

The  cocks  were  brought  into  the  centre  of  the  pit  within  the  ring,  the 
President's  fowls  being  generally  those  first  put  on  the  earth.  They  were 
then  thrown  off  for  a  spring  at  each  other,  and  taken  up  again  before  the 
betting  began.  Brokers  went  round,  proclaiming  the  amount  placed  in 
their  hands  to  bet  on  any  particular  fowl.     Whenever  a  bet  was  offered 


THE    COCK-PIT.  79 

against  Santa  Anna's  bird,  the  broker  was  called  to  his  box  and  an  aid- 
de-camp  covered  it.  Besides  these  bets,  the  General  usually  had  some 
standing  ones  agreed  on  beforehand  with  the  owners  of  other  cocks ;  and 
in  this  manner  five  or  six  thousand  dollars  were  lost  or  won  by  him  in 
the  pit  daily.  Seven  mains  of  cocks  were  fought  each  day — the  Presi- 
dent seeming  to  relish  the  sport  vastly,  while  his  aids  were  highly  ex- 
ited, and  the  ladies  looked  on  with  evident  gusto. 

Nothing  can  be  more  grossly  mean  than  a  passion  for  cock  fighting. 
A  bull  fight,  brutal  and  bloody  as  it  is,  has  still  something  noble  in  the 
contest  between  the  man  and  the  animal ;  there  is  a  trial  of  skill,  and 
often  a  trial  for  life.  Horse  racing  is  a  beautiful  sport,  it  is  both  exciting 
and  useful ;  and  the  breed  of  a  noble  animal  is  cherished  and  improved  by 
it.  But  to  see  grown  men,  and  among  them  the  chiefs  of  a  nation,  sit 
down  quietly  to  see  two  birds  kick  each  other  to  death  with  slashers  and 
spurs,  in  order  to  make  money  out  of  the  victory'  of  one  of  them,  is  too 
contemptible  to  be  sanctioned  or  apologized  for  in  any  way,  except  by 
old  traditionary  customs.  Such  were  the  old  customs  of  Mexico.  Their 
fathers  gambled — they  gamble.  Their  fathers  fought  fowls — they  fight 
fowls ;  and  if  you  speak  to  them  of  it,  they  shrug  their  shoulders,  with  a 
"  pues  que  ?" — "  what,  will  you  V 

It  is  with  pleasure,  however,  that  I  record  one  pleasant  scene  at  least 
in  this  festival  of  St.  Augustin.  On  the  second  day  I  did  not  go  out  early 
in  the  morning,  but  took  a  place  in  the  diligence  at  half-past  two  p.  m., 
reaching  the  village  in  a  couple  of  hours.  Disgusted  with  the  gambling 
scenes  and  the  cock-pit,  I  went  only  to  see  the  Calvario,  or  ball  given 
every  afternoon  at  the  Calvary,  which  adjoins  the  village  on  the  west. 

We  walked  to  this  spot  through  beautiful  lanes  of  Oriental-looking 
houses,  bowered  among  groves  of  orange  and  jasmine,  and  arrived  about 
six  o'clock.  As  the  people  were  just  assembling  we  strolled  up  the 
green  hills,  traversed  by  streams  of  crystal  water,  until  we  reached  an 
eminence  above  the  village,  bosomed  in  an  eternal  shade,  from  which 
peeped  out  the  white  walls  of  the  houses  and  azoteas,  covered  with  the 
most  beautiful  and  fragrant  flowers.  Across  the  valley,  the  eye  rested 
on  the  silvery  line  of  Tezcoco,  and  as  the  slanting  rays  of  the  sun  fell 
over  the  soft  midland- view,  and  athwart  the  hills  through  the  gaps  of  the 
western  mountains,  lighting  the  ravines,  and  throwing  the  bold  peaks  in 
shadow ;  I  thought  I  had  never  beheld  a  more  perfect,  picture  drawn  from 
fancy  of  the  peace  and  beauty  of  a  "  Happy  Valley."  It  was  soon  en- 
livened  by  figures,  and  became  a  scene  worthy  of  the  fairy  fancy  of 
Watteau. 

From  the  top  of  Calvary,  the  hill-side  sloped  down  amphitheatrically 
to  a  level  meadow,  a  bow-shot  in  width,  closed  on  the  east  and  west  by 
trees  in  their  freshest  foliage,  and  terminated  at  the  north  by  a  garden  and 
azotea  just  peeping  over  the  leaves  of  an  orange  grove.     On  the  side  of 


80  MEXICO. 

the  hill,  seats  had  been  placed  for  ladies,  which  were  speedily  filled  by 
them  attired  in  full  dress  for  the  evening.  The  fine  military  band  of  the 
garrison  struck  up  directly  in  the  centre  of  the  sward,  and  in  a  moment 
the  dancers  were  on  foot.  Galopades,  waltzes,  cotillons,  Spanish  dances 
— succeeded  each  other  rapidly.  It  was  difficult  to  say  which  was  the 
more  beautiful  display — that  of  Mexican  beauty  tripping  it  with  gay  cava- 
lier "to  music  on  the  green,"  or  that  of  Mexican  beauty  lining  the  hill- 
side, and  watching  the  festive  scene  with  its  pensive  gaze. 

The  dance  continued  until  twilight,  when  the  crowd  moved  off  to  town, 
in  carriages  and  on  foot.  In  a  moment  all  was  bustle,  and  as  I  gained  the 
road,  I  was  a  little  astonished  to  see  the  hosts  of  beggars  who  were  there 
to  meet  the  returning  mass  of  roystering  lads,  and  gleesome  fair  ones. 
Nor  were  these,  alone,  the  beggars  of  St.  Augustin — the  city  had  poured 
out  its  complement ;  all  my  well-known  acquaintances  were  present, 
anxious  to  pick  up  the  "crumbs  from  the  rich  man's  table,"  and,  for  ought 
I  know,  to  venture  some  of  them  slyly  in  the  booths  of  the  square.  As 
this  tide  of  joyous  life  swept  home,  I  could  not  help  noticing  one  of  these 
wretches,  who  threw  himself  actually  in  the  pathway  of  the  returning 
multitude,  and  rolled  along  the  road  in  such  a  manner  that  it  became  im- 
possible to  pass  without  treading  on  or  over  him.  It  was  the  old  howling 
beggar  of  the  Alameda:  kicks,  cuffs,  stumbles  availed  nothing;  still  he 
rolled,  and  still  he  howled. 

Such  is  the  contrast  presented  continually  between  enormous  wealth 
and  squalid  misery  in  the  Republic  of  Mexico! 


LETTER   XV. 


REVOLUTION.    ,    WAX-FIGURES.       VISIT    TO    THE    MUSEUM.       ANTIQUITIES. 

It  was  'just  after  the  conclusion  of  the  Revolution  of  18.41,  which  re- 
sulted in  placing  General  Santa  Anna  at  the  head  of  the  Government, 
that  I  arrived  in  the  city  of  Mexico,  and  found  the  marks  of  the  struggle 
that  took  place  on  that  memorable  occasion,  yet  visible  in  the  streets. 
For  a  month  the  city  had  been  in  a  state  of  siege ;  General  Bustamante, 
the  Constitutional  President,  occupying  the  National  Palace,  and  holding 
possession  of  portions  of  the  town  witfi  his  troops,  while  General  Valencia 
controlled  the  citadel,  from  which  he  cannonaded  and  threw  shells  into  the 
city.  During  all  this  time  the  work  of  slaughter  went  on;  but  the  chief 
injury  Was  inflicted  on  harmless  non-combatants,  who  happened  at  times 
to  pass  exposed  places,  or  to  cross  streets  which  were  raked  by  the  artil- 
lery. Numbers  of  poor  laborers,  and  laborers'  wives,  bringing  them  food, 
were  thus  destroyed ;  and  during  the  whole  of  the  period  I  remained  in 
the  Capital,  the  scars  and  indentations  made  by  the  balls  and  bullets 
in  the  walls  of  the  Calle  Refugio,  were  never  repaired.  From  the  tops  of 
houses,  too,  death  was  dealt  by  the  insurgents.  Screening  themselves 
behind  the  parapet  walls  of  azoteas,  and  frequently  in  church-towers,  they 
shot  down,  indiscriminately,  all  who  passed,  and  made  the  sureness  of 
aim  a  matter  of  boast  and  joke.  In  the  Revolution  or  imeute  of  the  pre- 
vious year,  General  Valencia  had  thus  well  nigh  fallen  victim  to  some 
reckless  marksman.  As  he  passed  along  one  of  the  streets,  at  the  head 
of  his  troops — at  a  moment,  too,  when  no  attack  was  meditated — a  solitary 
rifleman  sent  a  ball  from  a  steeple  through  his  chapeau.  The  General 
keeps  the  hat  as  a  sort  of  military  trophy. 

Upon  the  azotea  of  the  house  occupied  by  the  Prussian  Charge  d' Affaires, 
a  man  was  slain  early  one  morning,  by  a  shot  from  the  azotea  of  the  op- 
posite convent  of  the  Profesa ;  yet,  so  incessant  was  the  firing,  that  the 
family  was  prevented  from  coming  to  his  succor  or  removing  the  body  for 
several  hours. 

Thus  did  that  fearful  struggle  degenerate  into  murder  within  the  city 
walls,  while  the  horrors  of  civil  war  were  enhanced  by  a  bombardment 
and  cannonade  from  the  citadel,  under  a  commander  who,  until  within  a 
few  days,  had  enjoyed  the  highest  confidence  of  the  Constitutional  Gov- 
ernment. 

It  is  sincerely  to  be  hoped,  that  the  lesson  taught  at  this  epoch  has  dis- 
gusted the  nation  with  these  bloody  turmoils.     There  appears  among  the 


82 


MEXICO 


people  a  general  desire  for  peace ;  and  the  wise,  just,  and  thoughtful 
of  all  parties,  can  surely  agree  upon  some  plan  to  satisfy  the  common 
interests,  to  quell  the  inordinate  passions  of  military  chieftains,  and,  in 
fine,  to  terminate  for  ever  these  dreadful  scenes.  In  treating  hereafter  of 
the  political  condition  of  Mexico,  I  shall  have  occasion  to  refer  again  to 
this  subject,  and  shall  then  do  so  more  fully. 

These  ideas  struck  me  as  I  went  for  the  first  time  to  the  University, 
and  saw  even  the  front  of  that  edifice;  which  should  naturally  be  sacred 
to  learning  and  peace,  pierced  with  cannon  balls  and  bullets.  The  walls 
only,  I  believe,  were  injured.  Indeed,  from  the  appearance  of  the  houses 
throughout  the  city,  I  am  inclined  to  think  that  the  Mexicans  were  either 
exceedingly  bad  marksmen,  or,  that  they  aimed  high  (if  they  aimed  at 
all,)  to  prevent  carnage.  The  plaster  and  stones,  and  the  poor  non-combat- 
ants were  evidently  the  greatest  sufferers,  while  the  soldiers  seem  to  have 
had  an  amiable  compassion  for  each  other ! 

*  *  *       •         *  *  * 

The  University  is  a  fine  old  monastic  building,  erected  around  a  court- 
yard of  large  dimensions,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  now  placed  the  colos- 
sal bronze  statue  of  Charles  IV.,  cast  in  the  city  of  Mexico  by  Tolsa,  a 
Mexican  artist.  This  really  beautiful  work  formerly  stood  in  the 
great  square  fronting  the  Cathedral,  where  its  huge  mass  was  more  in 
proportion  to  the  surrounding  space  and  objects. 


STATUE     or     CHARLES     IV. 


MEXICAN    ARTISTS.  83 

The  statue  is  Equestrian.  The  monarch  is  represented  in  Roman  cos- 
tume,  his  brow  bound  with  a  wreath  of  laurel,  and  in  the  act  of  curb- 
ing  his  horse  with  his  left  hand,  while  his  right  extends  a  truncheon. 
An  antique  sword  rests  on  his  thigh,  and  an  imperial  robe  flows  in  easy- 
folds  from  his  shoulders  covering  the  haunches  of  the  horse,  who  is  mov- 
ing forward,  and  trampling  on  a  quiver  of  arrows.  The  face  of  Charles 
was  not  remarkable  for  dignity  or  command,  so  that,  in  order  to  preserve 
the  resemblance,  the  artist  has  been  obliged  to  throw  all  the  power  of 
his  work  into  the  figure.  But  the  result  has  been  a  statue  of  great  ma- 
jesty, and  worthy  of  the  most  judicious  praise.  Although  the  model 
of  the  horse  is  certainly  good,  and  the  dimensions  well  preserved  in  the 
colossal  size,  yet  it  is  quite  evident  that  the  artist  had  only  the  Mexican 
animal  in  his  mind's  eye  when  he  moulded  his  masterpiece.  The  chief 
defects,  as  well  as  I  was  able  to  judge  in  its  present  unfavorable  position, 
were  disproportions  in  the  neck  and  haunches;  the  former  being  entirely 
too  thick  and  large,  while  the  latter  are  too  heavy  and  small,  both  for 
the  legs -of  the  animal  and  the  figure  they  support.  The  drapery  of  the 
sovereign,  the  saddle-cloth,  sword,  bridle,  a  Medusa  head  on  the  mar- 
tingale, and  all  the  accessories,  are  admirably  finished  in  the  highest 
style  of  art.  One  of  the  most  severe  and  tasteful  critics  who  ever  saw 
it,  compares  this  work  of  the  native  Mexican  with  the  famous  statue  of 
Marcus  Aurelius  at  Rome,  which  has  so  frequently  been  the  theme  of 
praise  by  the  most  learned  sculptors  of  the  Old  World. 

Indeed,  the  art  of  imitating  nature  in  statuary,  is  a  talent  perhaps  no- 
where more  common  than  in  Mexico.  I  do  not  mean  by  this,  that  fine 
sculpture  is  common  there ;  but  I  know  of  few  places  where  there  is 
more  talent  to  produce  it. 

The  moment  a  stranger  arrives  in  Mexico  he  is  besieged  by  a  host  of 
wax-figure  makers,  with  small  statues  of  the  costumes  and  trades  of  the 
country.  These,  it  is  true,  are  cast  in  moulds,  but  the  talent  is  not  the 
less  remarkable.  They  are  admirably  executed.  Dress,  feature,  de- 
meanor, action,  are  all  caught  and  faithfully  depicted  to  the  very  life, 
and  no  collection  can  be  more  worthily  adorned  than  by  a  series  of  these 
figures.  You  can  obtain  them  of  any  size,  or  any  subject ;  and  although 
the  materials  are  frail,  they  may  be  safely  transported  from  the  Capital 
to  the  coast.  If  these  statuettes  are  wonderful,  their  makers  are  not  less 
so.  You  would  be  astonished  to  see  the  artist,  who  produces  a  gem  of  a 
figure  which  in  Europe  would  command  a  couple  of  doubloons.  A  little 
room  up  two  pairs  of  ricketty  stairs,  just  large  enough  to  turn  in,  where 
his  wife  cooks  and  sleeps  with  two  or  three  children  in  one  corner;  while 
he,  with  his  lump  of  wax  and  his  portable  furnace,  stands  working,  mould- 
ing and  dressing  his  figures  in  another.  Such  is  the  atelier,  while  the 
man  himself,  is  scarcely  distinguishable  from  the  commonest  l&peros. 


6* 


• .  there  were  in  the  c;.:t  of  Puebla  two  sixers,  remarkable 
for  the  manufacture  of  jiewrevjlnm  net.  Tbese  ladies  were  of  respect- 
able Sirtb.  and  always  commanded  a  ready  sale  for  their  works,  which 
_nt  for  even  in  Europe.  They  moulded  the  figures  of  lumps 
of  beeswax,  covered  the  different  parts  of  the  body  with  cotton  cloth  of 
colors  suited  to  the  complexion,  and.  while  the  wax  was  yet  soft,  moulded 
the  features  into  the  required  expression,  completing  the  representation 
with  appropriate  dresses.  I  hare  two  of  these  in  my  possession,  which, 
in  point  of  character,  are  worthy  of  the  pencil  of  Teniers.  They  repre- 
sent an  old  Indian  woman,  scolding  and  weeping  over  her  drunken  son. 
The  grief  and  age  of  the  one,  and  the  ti:  U  of  the  bead,  and 

want  of  mmmanA  over  the  limbs  of  the  other,  are  rendered  with  indes- 
cribable faithfulness.  One  of  these  remarkable  artists  died  while  I  was 
in  Mexico,  and  the  other  is  extremely  old  and  feeble,  so  that  it  has  now 
become  a  matter  of  great  difficulty  to  obtain  a  specimen  of  her  works ; 
nor  can  they  hereafter  be  as  perfect  as  formerly,  as  the  sister  wbo  died 
was  remarkable  for  her  perfection  in  formumg  the  figures,  while  the 
greater  talent  of  finishing  and  giving  expression,  was  the  task  of  the  sur- 
vivor. Both  duties  now  devolve  on.  her.  and  what  with  age  and  the  loss 
of  her  companion;  her  hand  seems  to  have  lost  much  of  its  cunning. 


But  let  us  retrace  our  va;  .  jseum. 

Turning  from  the  statue  of  Charles  IT.  in  the  centre  of  the  court-yard, 
to  the  left-hand  side  of  the  quadrangle,  you  observe  the  arcades  at  that 
end  covered  with  panels  of  wood,  ten  or  fifteen  feet  high,  and  apparently 
filled  with  boxes,  old  bookcases,  old  stones,  and  a  quantity  of  lumber.  A 
real  to  the  porter  will,  however,  admit  you  to  the  inclosure,  and  you  will 
be  surprised  to  find  amid  that  mass  of  filth,  dirt,  and  refuse  furniture, 
relics  of  antiquity  for  which  thousands  would  be  gladly  paid  by  the  Brit- 
ish Museum,  the  Louvre,  the  Glyptotheca  of  Munich,  or.  indeed,  by  anv 
enlightened  Sovereign,  who  possessed  the  taste  to  acquire  and  the  money 

You  see  a  mimic  tree,  with  a  stuffed  bear  climbing  up  it :  a  bleached 
and  hairless  tiger-skin  dangling  from  the  ceiling ;  half-a-dozen  Indian 
dresses  made  of  snake-skins,  fluttering  on  the  wall :  and,  amid  all  this 
:•..:'>-;.---    :~  a'  "  \v  gmnd  a: '.  Indeone  Indian  idol  >f  Ti  v..  :::- 
"be  grear  Stoxe  of  S  i:h  a  stone  cross  now  erected  in  the 

middle  to  sanctify  it ;)  the  celebrated  statue  of  the  Lvdio  Tkiste,  not  long 
since  disinterred ;  a  colossal  head  of  serpentine,  in  t:  a  style  of 

sculpture  ;  the  two  carvings  of  the  Feathered  Serpents,  already  described 
in  my  letter  on  Choi ula  ;  while,  on  the  benches  around  the  walls,  and  scat- 
tered over  the  floor,  are  numberless  figures  of  dogs,  monkeys,  lizards, 


: :  '  i  : 


:  -     H_.     _ 


and  raster 


lectt- 
A- 


i" ~. '—-. 


-  ''  '-.:■--'-  '.       -    : . :  • 

puMae.     Has  ewrnooBS  Saresafi*  was  'ffieDOTei'esd  in  fc  -    "    ja  tine 

; " ." ■: ■-.'.  '.'   ^ '     _  t  "  t  - ".    ' ~  '. i ~  s ;* f  : :    i_i  :  _ '    » ~  " "  ?. ~    r'?.  -..':-    ~._  f  ::•;  i_n ;c  :  * 
~:_. ::.  :-:■::■  s  ::  -~  ~  :-f  t_  :r_f  :--;  r:  :--f  : :   _■_ : :'::      ;?.  -  ~.i~    e:      _'  _? 

•  t;:;    ;  ~;.~.     ~.r_ "  :~f^";".: i^  _;  ;  ~_.- ;  _    j/„       _  1  ~-   ; * :    _;  7    ;  ;::__:';:."":.. 

rXr-ruir-:    mi  -•::,.._:-    ::  -   -":'_;_:"_'.  " ..-  _-":      1  'r-  .: :_::.-  ;;  .<-  .;:-f 

1 4  OEXI2UULI  r     :  '     : 

'    .•"" ". ""  T.~~-.  :^r  :r   "__f  1..  .'.~  .tIM-i  n   __t  ~'."Cr-"i  ;:'.:_;;  ;i:  :r.   _.tZ- 

tin  Ise  i3ae  sjod  ©f  Badhs-     GonadraL.  ftlbt 
tooraal  Uks  berlnaiafli,  alleges  it  to*-":-  -_.t  j  "  ;     —    7 

-         "       "  -    Sr  IS.  '      -  ■    - 

off  ■wftada  I  slaall  ureas  m.  1  '  ~  . .  -r 

. j:  :  _s 


■  .  *   ■         3  -  E     : 


86 


MEXICO. 


found  on  the  Hill  of  Tezcosingo,  near  the  town  of  Tezcoco,  on  the  eastern 
side  of  the  lake.  The  Indians  from  that  portion  of  the  country  say  that 
it  represents  the  God  of  Silence.  The  mouth,  where  the  lines  in  the  cut 
mark  a  square,  is  painted  red  on  the  statue,  but  Mr.  Gondra  believes  that 
the  color  was  added  by  the  Indian  who  discovered  it.     Next  to  this  is 


PER  R  O     UVIO. 


INDIAN    IDOLS. 


87 


a  figure  of  the  Perro  Mudo — or  dumb  dog.  This  carving  was  also 
found  in  the  Calle  de  St.  Teresa,  and  was  doubtless  an  Indian  idol. 
Silent  dogs,  were  said  to  have  been  plentiful  at  the  period  of  the  Spanish 
conquest ;  and,  although  they  have  been  destroyed  for  food,  in  the  south- 
ern and  middle  parts  of  Mexico,  they  are  still  found,  it  is  alleged,  among 
the  Apache  Indians.  The  figure  is  of  basalt,  like  the  god  of  Silence, 
and  is  one  foot  and  ten  inches  high. 

By  the  side  of  the  "  Perro  Mudo,"  on  the  bench  against  the  wall,  is  an 
Indian  Mortar  ; 


the  edge  of  the  bowl  is  surrounded,  as  you  perceive,  by  the  figure  of  a 
coiled  serpent,  exquisitely  carved  in  basalt.  Next  to  this  is  a  head,  also 
beautifully  cut  in  the  same  material. 


88  M  E  X  I  C  O  . 

1  was  unable  to  find  any  one  who  could  explain  its  signification,  or 
inform  me  of  the  place  where  it.  was  discovered. 

But  of  all  the  figures  within  this  inclosure,  none  struck  me  so  much  as 
that  of  the  Indio  Teiste — or  "Sad  Indian." 


This  remarkable  statue  was  discovered  behind  the  Palace,  beneath  the 
street  which  now  bears  its  name.  It  is  three  feet  four  inches  high,  and 
two  feet  broad,  and  was  disinterred  in  the  year  1828.  It  is  rather  the 
figure  of  a  surly,  than  a  sad  Indian.  His  brows  are  drawn  together  with 
anger.  His  eyes  are  wide  and  glaring.  His  tongue  is  slightly  protruded 
from  the  mouth.  Around  his  neck  is  a  cape  of  feathers,  and  his  feet  are 
sandalled.  His  hands  are  joined  by  the  points  of  the  fingers,  and  an 
aperture  is  thus  left  to  insert  a  staff  or  pole — the  bottom  of  which  evidently 
rested  in  a  socket  cut  in  the  base  of  the  statue,  between  the  feet,  as  indi- 
cated in  the  engraving.  This  figure  was  probably  set  on  the  wall,  or  at 
the  portal  of  some  edifice,  and  in  his  hand  was  erected  a  banner  or  in- 
signia of  command.  There  is  a  fixed,  stony  gaze  of  imperturbable  sur- 
liness and  impudence  in  the  face,  which  always  struck  me  as  making  it 
one  of  the  most  characteristic  remains  in  the  Museum 

Although  there  is  ample  material  around  me  for  further  illustration 
of  the  curious  idolatry  of  the  ancient  Indians,  I  will  not  trouble  you  with 
more  sketches  at  present,  and  conclude  this  part  of  my  description  of 
the  Museum  by  simply  saying,  that  the  remainder  of  the  idols  arc  chiefly 
images  of  dogs,  monkeys,  lizards,  and  rabbits — the  proportions  of  which 


INDIAN     IDOLS.  89 

are  greatly  exaggerated,  so  as  to  make  them  deformed  and  hideous.  If 
their  worship  was  a  worship  of  pure  propitiation,  they  seem  to  have 
adopted  the  idea  of  the  Chinese,  and  prayed  rather  to  the  Evil  principle 
of  things  than  to  the  Good.  "  God  is  too  good,"  said  a  Chinese  to  me 
once — ■''  God  is  too  good  to  hurt  us,  but  Ki — the  Devil — will ;  I  therefore 
pray  to  the  devil  to  let  me  alone !" 

It  may  be  readily  imagined  that  people,  in  the  dawn  of  religious  ideas, 
will  personify  every  ill  that  assails  them  under  the  shape  in  which  it 
becomes  most  annoying.  They  imagine  when  they  are  assailed  by  ser- 
pents, that  the  Evil  principle  vexes  them  in  that  form  ;  when  their  houses 
ar,e  overrun  with  lizards,  that  the  demon  has  attacked  them  in  another 
shape ;  and  thus,  according  to  their  simple  reasoning,  it  was  wise  to  mani- 
fest their  ideas  of  this  wicked  Spirit  in  statues  of  the  disguises  he  had 
himself  selected,  and  under  those  forms  to  appease  him  by  worship 
and  offerings.  It  is  by  imagining  a  system  of  this  nature,  that  we  can 
alone  account  for  the  extraordinary  and  fanciful  creations  of  Mexican 
art  which  have  been  preserved  until  our  day  and  generation. 


LETTER    XVI, 


THE    MUSEUM    AND    ITS    ANTIQUITIES,  CONTINUED. 

Ascending  by  a  broad  flight  of  steps  at  the  eastern  end  of  the  court- 
yard, you  reach  the  second  story  of  the  University  building,  in  which  are 
the  National  Museum  and  the  halls  appropriated  to  students.  On  the 
ground  floor,  are  a  rather  shabby  and  neglected  chapel  and  the  college- 
hall  or  recitation-room,  the  latter  of  which  reminded  me  of  some  of  the 
fine  monastic  chambers  of  the  Old  World,  with  their  high  ceilings,  lofty 
windows,  dark  walls,  carved  pulpit,  and  oaken  seats,  brown  with  the  hues 
of  venerable  age. 

On  the  wall  at  the  end  of  the  first  flight,  as  you  ascend  to  the  upper 
story,  there  is  a  huge  picture,  which  covers  the  whole  back  of  the  build- 
ing. It  represents  a  court  ceremony  of  the  time  of  Charles  IV. ;  and 
from  the  ugliness  of  the  faces,  and  the  characteristic  mien  of  all  the 
figures,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  it  is  a  faithful  representation,  both  of 
the  persons  and  costume  of  the  period  depicted. 

The  first  room  you  enter  on  your  right,  is  a  large  hall  which,  like 
everything  public  I  have  yet  seen  in  this  Republic,  is  neglected  and  lum- 
bered. Around  the  cornice  hangs  a  row  of  the  portraits  of  the  Viceroys, 
in  the  stiff  and  formal  guise  of  their  several  periods.  Some  are  in  mili- 
tary costume,  some  in  monkish,  some  in  civil,  and  some  in  the  out- 
landish frills,  furbelows  and  finery  of  the  last  century;  but  whether  it  be 
of  wisdom,  or  of  wickedness,  nature  has  invariably  stamped  a  decided 
character  on  every  head. 

In  one  corner  of  this  apartment  stand  the  remains  of  a  throne,  deposited 
among  the  rubbish  as  no  longer  valuable  in  a  Republic.  Near  it,  how- 
ever, and  in  strange  contrast,  is  placed  the  incomplete  basso-relievo  of  a 
trophy  of  liberty  ;  and  above  this,  against  the  wall,  in  a  rude  coffin  of 
rough  pine  boards,  hangs  a  mummy,  dug  up  not  long  ago  on  the  fields 
of  Tlaltelolco  north  of  the  city. 

Yet  this  room  is  not  altogether  destitute  of  interest,  if  you  can  induce 
the  keeper  to  open  the  shutters.  The  light  then  falls  upon  portraits  of 
Ferdinand  and  Isabella  at  the  end  of  the  hall,  which  are  worthy  of  the 
pencil  of  Velasquez. 

Passing  to  the  adjoining  sala,  we  enter  the  Museum  of  Mexican  Anti- 


NATIONAL     MUSEUM 


91 


quities,  and  odd,  indeed,  is  the  jumble  of  fragments  of  the  past  and  pres- 
ent that  bursts  upon  your  view. 

In  the  centre  of  the  room  is  a  Castle  and  Fortification,  made  of  wood  and 
straw,  with  mimic  guns  and  all  the  array  of  military  power.  This  was 
the  work  of  a  poor  prisoner — the  labor  of  years  of  solitude  and  misery. 

To  the  left  is  a  numismatic  cabinet,  tolerably  rich  in  Spanish  speci- 
mens and  in  a  collection  of  Roman  coins,  which  promises,  under  the 
care  of  Mr.  Gondra,  to  become  exceedingly  rare  and  valuable.  Next, 
there  is  a  small  library  of  manuscripts  of  the  early  missionaries  in  Mexico  ; 
volumes  of  their  sermons,  poems,  and  records  of  marriages,  births  and 
baptisms  soon  after  the  conquest.  It  is  astonishing  to  see  how  many  took 
the  name  of  Hernando  Cortez.  Next  to  this,  again,  is  another  case  con- 
taining (among  all  sorts  of  antiquated  gimcrackery,)  some  beautiful  spe- 
cimens of  the  rag  and  wax-work,  which  I  described  in  a  former  letter. 
In  a  corner  hard  by,  covered  with  dust,  lie  the  original  drawings  of 
Palenque  and  the  volumes  of  Lord  Kingsborough's  Mexico,  presented  to 
this  Museum  by  that  munificent  antiquarian.  They  are  rarely  looked 
at,  except  by  some  foreign  traveller  who  happens  to  straggle  into  the 
Museum. 

The  rest  of  the  collection  is  valuable.  In  the  adjoining  cases  are  all 
the  smaller  Mexican  Antiquities,  which  have  been  gathered  together  by 
the  labor  of  many  years,  and  arranged  with  some  attention  to  system. 
In  one  department  you  find  the  hatchets  used  by  the  Indians ;  the  orna- 
ments of  beads  of  obsidian  and  stone  worn  round  their  necks ;  the  mir- 
rors of  obsidian ;  the  masks  of  the  same  material,  which  they  hung  at 
different  seasons  before  the  faces  of  their  idols ;  their  bows  and  arrows 
and  arrow-heads  of  obsidian,  some  of  them  so  small  and  beautifully  cut, 
that  the  smallest  bird   might  be  killed  without  injuring  the  plumage. 

In  another  department  are  the  smaller  idols  of  the  ancient  Indians,  in 
clay  and  stone,  specimens  of  which,  together  with  the  small  domestic 
altars  and  vases  for  burning  incense,  are  exhibited  in  the  following 
drawings : 


92 


MEXICO. 


NATIONAL    MUSEUM, 


93 


Many  of  these  figures  were  doubtless  worn  suspended  around  the  neck, 
or  hung  on  the  walls  of  houses,  as  several  are  pierced  with  holes,  through 
which  cords  have  evidently  been  passed. 

In  the  next  case  is  a  collection  of  Mexican  Vases  and  Cups,  most  of 
which  were  discovered  about  the  year  1827,  in  subterranean  chambers, 
in  the  Island  of  Sacrificios, 


94 


MEXICO 


NATIONAL    MUSEUM, 


95 


96 


M  E  X  I  C  0 


It  is  well  known  to  all  who  have  read  the  history  of  Mexico,  that  at  the 
period  of  the  conquest  by  Cortez,  this  Island  was  a  spot  sacred  to  sepulture 
and  sacrifice. 

Owing  to  the  inertness  of  the  Mexican  Government,  no  thorough  explo- 
ration has  as  yet  been  made,  but  it  has  been  left  to  the  enterprise  of 
commanders  of  vessels,  and  especially  of  vessels  of  war,  who,  taking 
advantage  of  their  detention  at  anchor  under  the  lee  of  the  island,  have 
rummaged  the  sands  in  search  of  Indian  remains,  which  have  been  car- 
ried to  other  lands,  and  are  thus  for  ever  lost  to  Mexico. 

In  1841,  Monsieur  Dumanoir,  who  commanded  the  French  corvette 
Ceres,  undertook  to  explore  the  island.  In  the  centre  of  it  he  discovered 
sepulchres,  the  bones  in  which  were  in  admirable  preservation;  vases  of 
elav.  adorned  with  paintings  and  engraved  ;  arms,  idols,  collars,  bracelets, 
teeth  of  dogs  and  tigers,  and  a  variety  of  architectural  designs.  In  one 
place  he  found  a  vase  of  loliite  marble  ;  and  in  the  Museum  at  Mexico 
there  is  now  preserved  another,  also  found  at  Sacrificios,  of  which  the 
following  is  the  classic  shape  and  adornment  : 


I  give  the  form  of  another  vase  found  in  this  island,  which,  though  nei- 
ther beautiful  nor  classical  as  the  one  above  represented,  is  remarkable 
for  the  oddness  of  its  outline. 


NATIONAL     MUSEUM, 


97 


This  vessel  is  also  made  of  a  white  transparent  marble. 


In  a  neighboring  cabinet  is  seen  a  curious  little  figure,  carved  in  ser- 
pentine. It  appears  to  have  been  a  charm  or  talisman,  and  in  many 
respects  resembles  the  bronze  figures  which  were  found  at  Pompeii, 
and  are  preserved  in  the  Secret  Museum  at  Naples.  This  relic  was 
discovered  at  St.  Iago  Tlaltelolco,  immediately  north  of  the  city  of  Mexico  ; 
but  the  design  appears  to  me  too  indelicate  to  be  inserted  in  a  work  in- 
tended for  general  readers.  It  struck  me  as  resembling  the  images  used 
of  old  in  the  worship  of  Isis,  and  if  it  does  not  serve  as  a  link  in  the  sup- 
posed connection  between  the  Egyptians  and  the  Mexicans,  it  certainly 
exhibits  as  great  a  disregard  for  decency  as  characterized  the  great 
"  mother  of  ancient  art  and  civilization." 

The  figures  Nos.  1  and  2,  on  the  next  page,  are  drawings  of  two  Indian 

Axes  or  Hatchets,  of  stone,  the  first  of  which  was  discovered  in  Baltimore 

County,   State  of  Maryland,  and  the  second  near  St.   Louis  Potosi,  in 

Mexico !     I   have  contrasted   them,  as  singularly  alike   in   shape   and 

7 


98 


MEXICO. 


material,  both  being  grooved  near  the  top  for  the  purpose  of  fitting  into  a 
handle;— yet  at  what  a  distance  from  each  other  were  they  found! 


The  next  cut  represents  a  couple  of  Indian  Pipes,  the  larger  one  of 
which  is  finely  glazed  with  red. 


*  Axe,  of  this  shape  and  material  have  been  found  in  many  of  our  States.  Fov  an  interests  notice  of 
them  ve  Belknap's  History  of  New  Hampshire,  vol.  3rd.  p.  89.  -  The  hatchet  «  says  th.s  wn er  ,sa  d 
stone  efcht  orten  inches  in  length  and  three  or  four  in  breadth,  of  an  ova.  form,  flatted  and  rubbed  ,  a  ed*e 
.  t  on  end  ;  near  the  other  is  a  eroovc,  in  which  the  handle  was  fiutened  and  the*  process  to  »  w»J». 
When  the  stone  was  prepared,  they  chose  a  very  young  sapling,  and  .phtttn*  ,  near  he  >"«l™  *"*£ 
hatchet  into  H  as  far  as  the  P»Ove,  and  left  nature  to  complete  the  work  by  the  growth  ol  the  wood  so  a  o  fiU 
the  groove  and  adhere  firmly  to  the  stone.  They  then  cut  off  the  sapling  above  and  below,  and  the  hatchet  » 
fit  for  use." 


NATIONAL    MUSEUM.  99 

At  the  western  end  of  this  room  are  several  models  of  Mines,  chiefly- 
made  of  the  different  stones  found  in  the  mineral  regions  of  Mexico.  The 
figures  are  of  silver ;  and  the  various  parts  of  the  mine,  the  mode  of  ob- 
taining the  ore,  of  freeing  them  from  water,  of  sinking  shafts,  the  dresses, 
appearance  and  labors  of  the  workmen,  are  most  faithfully  portrayed. 

In  one  of  the  corners,  behind  a  quantity  of  rubbish,  old  desks  and 
benches,  is  the  Armor  of  Cortiz — a  plain  unornamented  suit  of  steel,  from 
the  size  of  which,  I  judge  that  the  Conqueror  was  not  a  man  of  large 
frame  or  great  bodily  strength.  Among  the  portraits  of  the  Viceroys 
contained  in  this  apartment,  there  is  one  of  Cortez  ;  and  in  it  he  is  depicted 
in  a  different  manner  from  that  in  which  we  have  been  accustomed  to 
know  him  since  our  boyhood,  when  we  first  made  his  acquaintance  in 
school  histories,  drawn  as  a  savage-looking  hero  with  slouched  hat  and 
feather  and  fur-caped  coat.  There  is  no  doubt,  I  am  told,  of  the  genu- 
ineness of  the  picture  in  this  Museum;  and  its  history  is  traced  with 
certainty  to  the  period  of  the  third  Viceroy,  when  the  gallery  of  portraits 
was  commenced.  It  represents  him  in  armor,  highly  polished,  and  in- 
laid with  gold.  One  hand  rests  upon  his  plumed  helmet  and  the  other 
on  a  truncheon.  The  figure  is  slender  and  graceful.  I  should  say,  from 
the  expression  of  the  head  alone,  that  the  portrait  was  accurate.  His 
eyes  are  raised  to  heaven- — his  gray  hair  curls  around  a  rather  narrow 
and  not  very  lofty  brow,  and  the  lower  part  of  his  face  is  covered  with 
a  grizzly  beard  and  mustache,  through  which  appears  a  mouth  marked 
with  firmness  and  dignity.  There  is  a  look  of  the  world,  and  of  heaven  ; 
of  veneration  and  authority.  It  is,  in  fact,  a  characteristic  picture  of  the 
bigoted  soldier,  who  slew  thousands  in  the  acquisition  of  gold,  empire, 
and  a  new  altar  for  the  Holy  Cross.  Never  was  the  biography  of  a  hero 
and  enthusiast,  more  fully  written  in  history,  than  has  been  done  by  the 
unknown  painter  of  this  portrait  on  the  canvas  which  embellished  the 
walls  of  the  Colonial  Palace  of  Mexico. 

In  the  same  room  with  this  picture,  hangs  the  banner  under  which  he 
conquered.  It  is  in  a  large  gold  frame,  covered  with  glass;  and,  as  well 
as  I  could  distinguish  in  the  bad  light  in  which  it  is  placed,  represents 
the  Virgin  Mary,  painted  on  crimson  silk,  surrounded  with  stars  and  an 
inscription. 

Just  below  this  is  an  old  Indian  painting,  made  shortly  after  the  con- 
quest, of  which  the  following  engraving  is  a  fac-simile.  I  copied  it  very 
carefully,  as  an  authentic  record  of  some  of  the  cruelties  practiced  by  the 
Spaniards  in  subduing  the  chiefs  of  the  country,  and  striking  terror  to  the 
minds  of  the  artless  Indians. 


100 


MEXICO. 


"/wcfrraia 


The  two  figures  in  the  left-hand  corner  are  Cortez  and  Dona  Marina, 
as  the  mottoes  above  indicate.  Marina  holds  a  rosary  in  her  hand,  while 
the  Marquis  appears  to  be  in  the  act  of  speaking  and  perhaps  giving 
order  for  the  execution  represented  beneath,  where  a  Spaniard  is  seen  in 
the  act  of  loosening  a  blood-hound,  who  springs  at  the  throat  of  an  Indian. 
In  the  original  copy  all  the  colors  are  given.  The  hair  of  the  victim  is 
erect  with  horror,  his  eyes  and  mouth  are  distended,  and  his  throat  is 
spotted  with  blood,  as  the  fangs  and  claws  of  the  ferocious  beast  are  driven 
through  his  flesh. 

Aptly  placed  just  below  this  curious  picture  is  another  of  the  last  of 
the  Kings  of  Tezcoco,  of  which  I  shall  have  occasion  to  speak  hereafter; 
and  beneath  that  again,  on  a  stand,  in  the  midst  of  a  number  of  hideous 
idols  carved  in  stone,  are  two  Funeral  Vases  of  baked  clay,  found  some 
years  since  at  St.  Jago  Tlaltelolco,  the  northern  suburb  of  the  city. 


FUNERAL  VASE  AND  COVER. 


NATIONAL     MUSEUM, 


101 


This  is  really  one  of  the  most  beautiful  relics  in  the  Museum,  and  is 
very  accurately  represented  on  the  opposite  page.  It  was  discovered 
about  nine  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  ground ;  the  upper  portion  of  it 
was  filled  with  skulls,  while  the  lower  contained  fragments  of  the  rest 
of  the  human  frame.  There  appears  to  have  been  no  bottom  to  the  vase, 
but  it  was  covered  with  the  circular  top  delineated  in  the  engraving. 
The  whole  vessel  is  one  foot  ten  inches  high,  by  one  foot  three  and  a  half 
inches  in  diameter. 

This  vase,  besides  being  remarkable  for  the  ornaments  in  relief  upon 
it,  presents  all  the  colors  with  which  it  was  originally  painted,  in  high 
preservation  and  brilliancy.  Immediately  below  the  rim  is  a  winged 
head,  with  an  Indian  dress  of  plumes.  The  eyes  are  wide  and  fixed, 
and  the  mouth  is  partly  opened,  displaying  the  teeth.  The  handles  are 
oddly  shaped,  and  depending  from  the  tips  of  the  wings  is  a  collar  formed 
of  alternate  ears  of  corn  and  sunflowers.  The  colors  of  the  body  of  this 
vase  are  a  bright  azure  ;  the  upper  rim  is  a  brilliant  crimson,  and  the  next 
a  light-pink.  The  head  and  the  ends  of  the  wings,  with  the  stripe  in  the 
middle,  are  painted  a  light-brown.  The  circular  ornament  in  the  centre 
is  crimson,  and  the  figures  on  it  yellow.  The  sunflowers  are  also  yel- 
low, while  the  two  outer  ears  of  corn  are  red,  and  the  centre  one  blue. 
The  band  below  these  is  brown,  similar  to  the  head  and  wings. 

The  head  on  this  vase  is  very  remarkable  in  its  expression.  There  is 
a  fixed,  intense,  stony  stare  in  the  eyes,  and  a  pinched  sharpness  about 
the  mouth,  which  denote  its  character.  It  was  evidently  the  idea  of  an 
Angel  of  death,  while  the  full  blown  sunflower,  and  the  ripe  and  stripped 
ears  of  corn,  denote  the  fullness  of  years. 

In  one  of  the  cases  are  a  series  of  interesting  objects,  of  which  the  fol- 
lowing designs  will  give  the  reader  some  idea. 


This  is  a  rattle,  made  of  baked  clay,  finely  tempered,  containing  a 
small  ball,  the  size  of  a  pea. 


102 


MEXICO. 


The  next  figures  are  specimens  of  "household  gods;"  some  of  the 
originals  of  which  are  now  in  my  possession. 

Like  the  ancient  Romans,  the  Mexicans  had  their  Penates,  called  by 
them  Tepitoton.  The  sovereigns,  and  great  lords  always  had  six  of  them 
in  their  dwellings ;  the  nobles  four,  and  the  common  people  two  ;  and  it 
is  related  by  Clavigero,  that  these  gods  were  to  be  found  everywhere  in 
their  streets. 


(U  [I]  GO  M 

[u  m  m  m 


NATIONAL     MUSEUM, 


103 


In  this  manner,  the  immense  number  of  clay  figures  and  fragments 
which  are  constantly  dug  up  in  every  excavation  made  in  the  city  of 
Mexico  and  its  neighborhood,  is  satisfactorily  accounted  for. 


104 


MEXICO. 


Besides  the  rattle,  given  before,  there  are  remains,  or  traditions,  of  but 
few  other  musical  instruments  known  to  the  Mexicans.  The  Teponaztli 
or  Indian  drum,  is  made  of  hollowed  wood,  the  exterior  being  covered 
with  tasteful  carving,  of  which  the  following  designs  will  convey  a  faith- 
ful idea. 


NATIONAL     MUSEUM, 


105 


The  sound  was  produced  by  striking  the  pieces  of  wood  which  extended, 
without  meeting,  over  the  upper  part  of  the  cavity  toward  the  centre  of 
the  instrument. 


These  are  whistles,  made  of  baked  clay,  and  covered  with  grotesque 
figures  in  relief. 


106  MEXICO. 

The  last  figures  represent  flageolets,  made,  like  the  whistles,  of  baked 
clay.  They  have  four  stops,  and  the  sound  is,  of  course,  very  monotonous. 
I  have  seen  them  used,  even  at  the  present  day,  in  some  religious  ceremo- 
nials of  the  Indians,  as  an  accompaniment  to  a  drum  which,  though  not 
shaped  like  the  tcponaztli,  produced  quite  as  little  music. 


Around  the  walls  of  this  chamber  of  the  Museum  are  hung  old  Indian 
paintings  of  portions  of  Mexican  history ;  genealogies  of  the  Mexican 
monarchs;  computations  of  time;  plans  of  the  city  before  the  conquest, 
and  pictures  of  various  battles  and  skirmishes  that  occurred  between  the 
natives  and  the  invaders.  I  regret  to  say  that  many  of  these  are  only 
copies,  the  originals  having  been  taken  to  England  shortly  after  the  estab- 
lishment of  Independence,  whence  they  have  never  been  returned.  They 
are  placed  better  there,  perhaps,  than  they  would  be  in  Mexico;  where  the 
existing  remains  of  antiquity  excite  no  curiosity,  and  lie,  from  year  to 
year,  covered  with  dust,  and  unexplored  on  the  walls  and  in  the  closets 
of  a  university.  With  the  exception  of  Don  Carlos  Bustamante,  I  know  no 
one  who  has  devoted  an  hour,  of  late  years,  to  these  interesting  studies  ; 
and  the  curator  of  the  Museum,  Don  Isidrio  Gondra,  is  so  continually  oc- 
cupied with  his  political  duties,  in  the  editing  of  the  Government  Gazette, 
and  lacks  so  greatly  the  encouragement  of  the  Government,  and  its  dedi- 
cation of  even  a  thousand  dollars  a  year  to  archaeological  researches,  that 
he  does  no  more  than  open  the  doors  of  these  saloons  on  stated  days  and 
smoke  his  cigar  quietly  in  a  corner ;  while  the  ladies,  gentlemen,  loafers 
and  leperos,  wander  from  case  to  case,  and  lift  up  their  hands  in  astonish- 
ment at  the  grotesque  forms. 

What  those  forms  and  figures  mean ;  what  was  represented  by  such 
an  idol,  or  what  by  another — receives  the  unfailing  Mexican  answer : 
"  Qaien  sabe  ?" — "  who  knows  ?   who  can  tell  ?" 

But  I  must  not  leave  this  building,  without  some  remarks  on  a  vase, 
of  which  the  sketch  on  the  next  page  is  an  accurate  drawing,  represent- 
ing both  its  sides. 


NATIONAL     MUSEUM. 


107 


108  MEXICO. 

This  vessel,  which  is  of  a  beautiful  yellowish  clay,  tempered  almost  as 
finely  as  porcelain,  and  perfectly  smooth  and  hard,  is  9'f  inches  high,  7 
in  diameter,  and  A  of  an  inch  thick.  It  was  found  in  the  Cerro  del  Te- 
soro,  or  "  hill  of  the  treasure,"  in  the  prefecture  of  Tula  and  Department 
of  Mexico. 

I  have  desired  to  place  it  before  you  for  the  purpose  of  comparing  the 
figures  engraved  on  it  with  the  style  of  the  figures  drawn  by  Mr.  Cather- 
wood,  in  Mr.  Stephens's  travels  in  Yucatan  and  elsewhere.  Although 
there  are  no  figures  to  which  I  can  at  once  and  entirely  assimilate  these, 
yet  there  is  a  general  resemblance  which  cannot  fail  to  strike  the  most 
careless  observer. 

It  will  be  recollected  that  Tula  was  the  head-quarters,  at  one  period,  of 
the  tribes  which  afterward  penetrated  into  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  and  some 
of  which  even  continued  still  farther  to  the  southward.  May  they  not 
have  been  the  parent  stock  from  which  sprang  the  builders  of  the  nume- 
rous cities  which  now  lie  in  ruins  in  Yucatan  ?  And  may  not  this  vase 
serve  to  show  a  connection  between  all  the  people  who,  at  the  time  of  the 
conquest,  dwelt  on  the  narrow  land  which  connects  the  Northern  and 
the  Southern  portions  of  our  Continent? 

I  recollect  very  well,  with  how  much  gusto  Mr.  Gondra  brought  it  forth 
for  my  inspection,  after  he  had  seen  the  designs  of  Mr.  Catherwood,  and 
how  perfectly  his  mind  seems  to  be  satisfied  of  the  identity  and  charac- 
ter, origin  and  habits,  of  the  people  who  formed  this  vessel  and  reared  the 
Temples  of  Palenque. 


Beyond  the  room  in  .which  we  have  been  so  long  detained,  there  is  still 
another  apartment,  devoted  to  Natural  History.  But  the  Present  fares 
no  better  than  the  Past.  The  birds  and  beasts  are  badly  stuffed,  badly 
mounted,  badly  arranged  ;  and  when  I  hoped  to  find  a  collection  of  miner- 
als, or,  at  least  some  rare  specimens  of  the  splendid  ores  of  Mexico,  sys- 
tematically arranged,  I  regret  to  say  that  I  met  with  equal  disappoint- 
ment. 

The  last  time  I  visited  the  Museum,  I  found  on  the  centre  table  of  the 
saloon  of  antiquities,  the  armor  of  Aharado.  It  was  pleasant  to  know 
that  it  had  at  length  reached  so  appropriate  a  destination,  after  having 
been  hawked  about  the  Capital  by  various  brokers,  who  were  at  one  period 
on  the  eve  of  selling  it  to  me,  together  with  the  hero's  commission,  signed 
by  the  Emperor,  for  the  sum  of  one  hundred  dollars !  The  Government 
gave  one  hundred  and  forty  dollars  for  them,  or  I  have  no  doubt  that  these 
relics  of  one  of  the  bravest  of  the  conquerors,  and  the  next  in  repute  to 
Cortez,  would  now  adorn  the  walls  of  our  National  Institute. 


rEovAouiqvi — prokh.k 


TlnVNMlQUI. FRONT. 


LETTER    XVII 


TEOYAOMIOJJI.       MEXICAN    MYTHOLOGY, 


The  chief  antiquities  of  the  Mexicans  which  have  descended  to  our 
times,  are  of  a  religious  character ;  and  their  gods,  their  temples,  their 
pyramids,  and  their  funeral  vases,  alone  remain,  after  every  other  im- 
portant record  of  a  material  character  has  wasted  before  Time  and  the 
bigoted  rapacity  of  the  Spaniards.  An  inquiry  in  relation  to  their  reli- 
gion is  therefore  interesting,  as  a  memorial  of  the  past.  Debase  a  nation 
as  much  as  you  can ;  crush  out  its  spirit  beneath  the  iron  heel  of  despot- 
ism ;  tear  from  it  and  destroy  every  record  of  its  greatness  and  its 
ancestry  ;  yet  the  miserable  remnant  which  survives  the  ruin,  will  still 
retain,  amid  changed  laws,  changed  customs,  and  even  a  changed  faith, 
the  shadow  of  some  of  the  rites,  and  the  recollection  of  the  gods  who  were 
adored  by  its  ancestors.  The  spirit  seems  to  cling  with  traditionary  fer- 
vor to  the  belief  of  our  fathers.  Thus,  in  Mexico,  even  after  three  cen- 
turies of  the  dominion  of  a  foreign  Priesthood,  the  Indian  worship,  (as  I 
shall  have  occasion  hereafter  to  show,)  still  tinges  the  rites  of  the  Catholic ; 
and  I  have  been  credibly  informed,  that,  even  now,  the  keepers  of  the 
University  sometimes  find  garlands  and  flowers  which  have  been  hung 
around  that  hideous  statue,  whose  figure  has  just  been  exhibited  in  the 
preceding  engraving. 

Clavigero  (who,  with  Veytia,  is  unquestionably  the  best  writer  on  Mex- 
ican history,)  informs  us,  that  the  ancients  believed  there  were  three 
places  assigned  to  their  departed  spirits. 

The  soldiers  who  died  in  battle  fighting  for  their  country,  or,  who  per- 
ished in  captivity,  and  the  souls  of  women  who  died  in  childbirth,  went  to 
the  House  of  the  Sun,  where  they  led  a  life  of  endless  delight.  "At 
morning  they  hailed  the  luminary  with  music  and  dancing,  attended  him 
in  his  journey  to  the  meridian,  where  they  met  the  souls  of  women,  and 
with  similar  festivities  accompanied  him  to  his  setting." 

After  years  of  these  pleasures  their  spirits  were  transformed  into 
clouds ;  birds  of  beautiful  plumage  and  pleasant  song ;  but  they  had 
power  to  ascend  again,  whenever  they  desired,  to  heaven.     The  ridicu- 


110  MEXICO. 

lous  notion  of  an  aristocracy  was  carried  by  them  even  to  the  other  world ; 
and  while  the  nobles  animated  gorgeous  birds  and  dazzling  clouds,  and 
floated  in  the  purest  air,  the  souls  of  the  common  people  were  doomed 
to  crawl  in  weasels,  beetles,  and  the  meaner  animals. 

The  spirits  of  those  who  were  drowned,  or  struck  by  lightning;  of  those 
who  died  with  dropsy,  tumors,  wounds,  or  similar  diseases ;  went,  with 
the  souls  of  children  who  had  either  been  drowned  or  sacrificed  in  honor 
of  Tlaloc,  "the  god  of  the  Water,"  to  a  delicious  place  named  Tlalocan, 
where  that  god  resided,  surrounded  by  everything  that  could  contribute 
to  pleasure  and  happiness. 

The  third  place  of  departed  spirits  was  Mictlan  or  Hell.  This  was  a 
kingdom  of  utter  darkness,  ruled  by  a  god  and  goddess,  and  the  gloomy 
blackness  of  the  realm  was  the  only  punishment.  Clavigero  thinks  that  the 
Mexicans  placed  this  hell  in  the  centre  of  the  earth — and  it  may  have 
been  but  a  type  of  utter  annihilation. 

They  had  some  imperfect  ideas  of  a  Supreme  God,  whom  they  feared 
and  adored,  yet  represented  by  no  external  form,  because  they  believed 
him  to  be  invisible.  He  was  generally  spoken  of  as  Teotl — God — but 
was  known,  also,  by  the  name  of  Ipalnemoani,  "  He  by  whom  we  live;" 
and  Tloque  Nahuaojte,  "He  who  has  all  in  himself."  They  had  also 
an  Evil  spirit,  inimical  to  mankind,  called  Tlaleatecolototl,  "  the  Rational 
Owl."  This  spirit  was  said  to  appear  frequently  to  men,  to  terrify  or 
injure  them;  but  there  is  no  distinct  history  of  this  wicked  power,  or  of 
their  religious  system  as  applied  to  it.  After  Teotl — the  Supreme  in- 
visible Being — there  were  thirteen  others  worshipped  in  Mexico  as  prin- 
cipal gods. 

Tetzcatlipoca,  the  "  Shining  Mirror  ;"  "  the  God  of  providence  ;  the 
Soul  of  the  world ;  the  Creator  of  heaven  and  earth ;  the  Master  of  all 
things." 

Ometeuctli  and  Omecihuatl,  a  god  and  goddess,  who  granted  mor- 
tals their  wishes.  These  divinities  appear  to  have  presided  over  new-born 
children,  and  reigned  in  the  "  celestial  paradise." 

CimiACOHTTATL,  or  "Woman  Serpent;"  also  called  Quilaztli  or  Toua- 
cacihua:  "woman  of  our  flesh;"  was  held  to  be  the  mother  of  the  human 
race,  and  was  venerated  next  to  Ometeuctli  and  Omecihuatl. 

Tonatricli  and  Meztli,  the  sun  and  moon  deified  ;  of  whom  I  shall 
have  occasion  to  say  something  in  describing  the  pyramids  of  St.  Juan 
Teotihuacan. 

Quetzalcoatl,  concerning  whom  I  have  already  written  in  my  letter 
on  Choi u la. 

Tlaloc,  "  the  god  of  Water ;"  the  fertilizer  of  the  soil,  the  protector  of 
temporal  goods.  His  image  was  painted  blue  and  green,  to  represent  the 
hues  of  water,  and  in  his  hand  he  held  an  undulating  and  pointed  rod  to 
signify  his  control  over  storms  and  lightning. 

Xiuhteuctli,  "master  of  the  year  and  grass;"  the  god  of  Fire.  An 
oblation  of  the  first  morsel  and  the  first  draught  at  dinner,  was  always 


MEXICAN    MYTHOLOGY.  HI 

given  him  by  the  Mexicans ;  and  at  the  close  of  the  festival  in  his  honor 
the  fires  in  the  temples  and  dwellings  were  extinguished,  and  rekindled 
from  the  one  lighted  before  the  idol. 

Centeotl,  the  "  goddess  of  the  Earth  and  Corn  ;"  and  known,  also,  by 
another  word  which  signifies  "  she  who  supports  us."  This  was  a  god- 
dess devotedly  worshipped  by  the  Totonacos,  who  believed  that  in  the 
course  of  time  she  would  free  them  from  the  slavery  of  the  other  gods, 
and  abolish  the  horrors  of  human  sacrifice.  To  her  only  were  offered 
doves,  quails,  leverets,  and  such  harmless  animals.  She  was  a  Mexican 
Ceres. 

Mictlanteuctli,  "  the  god  of  Hell,"  and  his  female  companion.  Sac- 
rifices were  made  to  him  at  night,  and  his  priests  were  clad  in  black 
during  their  ministrations  at  the  altars. 

Joalteuctli,  "the  god  of  Night;"  was  the  divinity  who  gave  sleep 
to  children,  while  Joalticitl  was  the  goddess  of  cradles,  and  presided 
over  their  infants  in  the  watches  of  the  night. 

The  next  deity  was  the  one  most  honored  by  the  Mexicans,  and  re- 
garded as  their  chief  protector — Huitzilipotchtli,  or  Mexitli,  "  the  god 
of  War,"  the  Mexican  Mars. 

This  was  the  mighty  power  who  became,  (according  to  their  tradition,) 
the  protector  of  the  Mexicans  ;  conducted  them  through  the  years  of  their 
pilgrimage,  and  at  length,  settled  them  on  the  spot  where  they  afterward 
founded  the  great  city  of  Mexico. 

"  To  him  they  raised  that  superb  Temple  so  much  celebrated  by  the 
Spaniards.  His  statue  was  of  gigantic  size,  in  the  posture  of  a  man  seated 
on  a  blue-colored  bench,  from  the  corners  of  which  issued  four  gigantic 
snakes.  His  forehead  was  blue,  and  his  face  and  the  back  of  his  head 
were  covered  with  golden  masks.  He  wore  a  crest  shaped  like  the  beak 
of  a  bird.  On  his  neck  was  a  collar  of  ten  figures  of  the  human  heart. 
In  his  right  hand  he  bore  a  blue  club,  huge  and  twisted — in  his  left  a 
shield,  on  which  appeared  five  balls  of  feathers  disposed  in  the  form  of  a 
cross,  while  from  the  upper  part  of  it  rose  a  golden  flag  with  four  arrows, 
Avhich  the  Mexicans  pretend  to  have  been  sent  from  heaven  to  perform 
the  glorious  actions  of  his  history.  His  body  was  girt  with  a  large 
golden  snake,  and  adorned  with  various  lesser  figures  of  animals,  made 
of  gold  and  silver  and  precious  stones,  each  of  which  ornaments  had  a 
peculiar  meaning."* 

Whenever  war  was  contemplated  by  the  Mexicans,  this  god  was  im- 
plored for  protection,  and  they  offered  up  to  him  a  greater  number  of 
human  victims  than  to  any  of  the  other  deities.  The  only  figure  I  found 
in  Mexico  upon  which  the  antiquarians  seemed  agreed  as  to  its  represen- 
tation of  this  god,  (though  not  with  all  the  splendor  described  by  Clavi- 
gero,)  was  the  following  :  it  is  in  bas-relief,  and  is  in  the  collection  of 
Don  Mariano  Sanchez  y  Mora,  ex-Conde  del  Pefiasco. 

*  Vide  Clavigero  and  McCulloh. 


112 


MEXICO, 


I  cannot  conclude  the  account  of  this  idol  without  referring  to  a  tra- 
dition which  is  given  in  relation  to  him,  by  Acosta,  in  his  Natural  and 
Moral  History,  book  4th,  chap,  xxiv.,  and  is  repeated  by  Clavigero  and 
Dr.  McCulloh. 

Two  days  before  his  festival,  an  idol  representing  him  was  made  by 
the  sacred  Virgins,  of  grains  of  parched  corn  and  seeds  of  beets,  mixed 
together  with  honey  or  the  blood  of  children.  This  they  clothed  with  a 
splendid  dress  and  seated  on  a  litter. 

On  the  morning  of  the  festal  day  this  figure  was  borne  in  solemn  pro- 
cession around  the  city  of  Mexico,  and  then  carried  to  the  temple,  where 
they  had  prepared  a  great  quantity  of  the  same  paste  of  seeds  and  blood, 
of  which  the  priests  also  made  an  idol,  called  "  the  jlesh  and  bones"  of 
Huitzilopotchtli. 

After  certain  ceremonials  and  consecration,  the  image  was  sacrificed 
as  they  sacrificed  their  human  victims,  "  and  his  body  was  broken  into 
small  pieces,  which,  together  with  those  portions  called  his  'Jlesh  and  bones,'' 
were  distributed  among  the  people,"  who,  according  to  Acosta,  "received 
the  same  with  tears,  fear  and  reverence,  as  if  it  was  an  admirable  thing, 
saying  that  they  did  eat  the  flesh  and  bones  of  God,  wherewith  they  were 
grieved.  Such  as  had  any  sick  folks,"  continues  Acosta,  "  demanded 
thereof  for  them,  and  carried  it  with  great  reverence  and  devotion." 


MEXICAN    MYTHOLOGY, 


113 


This  extraordinary  ceremonial  was  no  coinage  of  the  Spanish  priests, 
for  Acosta  calls  it  "  a  communion,  which  the  devil  himself,  the  prince  of 
pride,  ordained  in  Mexico,  to  counterfeit  the  Holy  Sacrament /"* 

Thus  magnificent  as  was  the  god  of  War,  he  did  not  disdain,  accord- 
ing to  tradition,  to  take  unto  himself  a  very  hideous  partner,  whose  mon- 
strous and  horrible  figure  has  been  preserved  to  these  times  in  the  statue, 
drawings  of  which  are  given  at  the  commencement  of  this  letter. 

Teoyaomiqui,  the  wife  of  Huilzilopotchtli,  was  the  goddess  who  con- 
ducted the  souls  of  the  warriors,  who  died  in  defence  of  their  altars,  to 
the  Mexican  Elysium — the  House  of  the  Sun. 

The  figure  on  the  opposite  page  represents  the  front  of  this  idol — the 
breasts  denoting  the  sex.  At  the  sides  of  these,  and  beneath,  are  four 
hands,  displaying  the  open  palms,  while  above  and  between  the  hands  are 
sacks,  or  purses  in  the  shape  of  gourds,  which,  according  to  Don  Fernando 
de  Alvarado  Tezozomoc,  represented  "  the  woven  purses,"  of  a  blue  color, 
filled  with  copal,  that  were  offered  to  the  idol  containing  the  sacred  incense 
used  at  the  election  and  funeral  ceremonies  of  Kings,  and  burned  with 
the  bodies  or  hearts  of  the  captives  slain  to  accompany  the  deceased 
sovereign  on  his  journey  to  the  world  of  spirits. 

In  front  of  the  waist,  a  death-head  is  attached.  The  strap  by  which 
these  skulls  are  held,  will  be  perceived  in  the  second  figure,  which  ex- 
hibits the  statue  in  profile. 

The  knots  of  serpents,  the  feathers,  the  shells,  and  the  nails  or  claws 
forming  the  lower  part  of  the  figure,  are  said  by  De  Gamaf  to  be  the 
insignia  of  other  gods  connected  with  Teoyaomiqui  or  her  husband ; 
while  all  those  above  the  waist,  both  in  front  and  behind,  are  symbols  of 
that  deity  herself.  The  top  of  the  statue  is  represented  in  the  following 
drawing : 


*  The  figure  of  the  Holy  Cross  has  been  found  in  Mexico,  and  a  drawing  of  one  discovered  at  Palanque,  is 
given  by  Mr.  Stephens  in  his  first,  volume.  It  is  known  that  an  idolatrous  worship  was  paid  it  before  the  con- 
quest. In  Egypt  it  was  venerated  from  the  greatest  antiquity  as  the  symbol  of  matter.  Among  the  Irish  it  was 
the  symbol  of  knowledge,  and  Garcilaso  de  la  Vega  informs  us,  that  the  ancient  Peruvians  had  "across  of 
white  marble  which  they  held  in  great  veneration,  but  did  not  adore."  They  could  give  no  reason  for  che  respect 
they  paid  it. 

t  P.  36.  Discripcion  Historica  y  Cronologica. 


114  MEXICO. 

And  the  next  is  a  picture  ol'  its  lower  part  or  bottom: 


It  is  the  opinion  of  all  the  Mexican  antiquarians,  from  the  fact  of  this 
sculpture  in  relief  being  formed  beneath  the  idol,  and  the  additional  fact 
of  the  projections  at.  the  sides  of  the  body  near  the  waist,  (as  seen  in  the 
first  plate,)  that  the  statue  was  suspended  by  them  on  pillars,  so  as  to  al- 
low the  worshippers  or  the  priests  to  pass  with  ease  beneath  the  monster. 
The  idol  represented  on  the  base  is  supposed  to  be  that  of  Mictlan- 
teuhtli,  the  "god  of  Hell." 

The  height  of  this  immense  mass,  carved  from  one  solid  block  of  basalt, 
is  nine  feet,  and  its  breadth  about  five  and  a  half. 

Such  was  one  of  the  hideous  gods  worshipped  by  the  ancient  Mexicans. 
In  the  year  1790,  on  the  13th  of  August,  it  was  found  at  a  short  depth 
below  the  surface  of  the  great  square.  It  was  removed,  some  time  after- 
ward, to  the  court-yard  of  the  University,  where  it  was  buried  again  to 
conceal  it  from  the  Indians,  who  might  have  been  tempted  by  the  devil,  (as 
was  said  by  the  priests,)  to  return  to  its  idolatrous  worship.  It  is  only 
since  the  year  1821,  that  it  has  been  exposed  to  public  view  in  the  in- 
closure  where  I  found  it.  and  which  I  have  described  to  you. 


TOP  OV  SACKII  IClAl.  STUNK 


LETTER    XVIII 


PRIESTS.       TEMPLES.       SACRIFICES. 


The  Priests  have  always  borne  an  important  part  in  Mexican  affairs ; 
and  it  is  stated,  upon  good  authority,  that  at  the  height  of  the  power  of 
the  Empire,  they  numbered  not  less  than  one  million  in  the  service  of  the 
different  idols. 

They  were  divided  into  different  orders,  and  there  were  both  monks  and 
priests,  as  among  the  Catholics.  Women,  also,  entered  into  the  sacred 
order,  and  performed  all  the  duties  usually  assigned  to  the  males,  except 
that  of  sacrifice.  The  monks  were  called  Hamacazques,  and  the  priests 
Teopixqui. 

They  had  two  chiefs,  who  obtained  their  rank  and  power  by  lives  of 
exemplary  probity  and  virtue,  and  by  a  profound  acquaintance  with  all 
the  rites  and  mysteries  of  their  religion.  These  were  the  "diviners"  or 
soothsayers,  who  were  consulted  by  the  authorities  on  all  high  matters  of 
state,  both  in  peace  and  war.  They  officiated  at  the  most  solemn  of  their 
sacrifices,  and  crowned  the  sovereign  upon  his  accession  to  the  throne. 
On  the  principal  festivals  their  dress  was  splendid,  and  bore  the  insignia 
of  the  god  in  whose  honor  they  officiated.  To  the  minor  priesthood, 
all  the  humble  duties  of  the  temples  were  assigned ;  they  cleaned  the 
sacred  edifice,  educated  the  young,  took  care  of  the  holy  pictures,  and 
observed  the  Calendar. 

Nor  did  they  lack  a  resemblance  to  portions  of  the  Catholic  clergy,  in 
the  austerity  and  mortification  of  their  lives.  Not  only  did  they  wear 
sackcloth  next  their  skin  and  apply  the  scourge  in  secret,  but  they  shed 
their  own  blood;  pierced  themselves  with  the  sharp  points  of  the  aloe;  and 
bored  their  ears,  lips,  tongues,  arms  and  legs,  by  introducing  fragments 
of  cane,  which  they  gradually  increased  in  size,  as  their  wounds  began  to 
heal.     Their  fasts,  too,  were  long  and  severe. 

Each  sex  lived  apart,  leading  a  life  of  celibacy,  in  monastic  establish- 
ments, and  their  income  was  derived  from  lands  set  aside  for  their  main- 
tenance,— separate  revenues  being  devoted  to  the  support  of  the  Temple. 


116  MEXICO. 

It  is  in  their  sacred  edifices  that  these  people  were  the  most  remarkable, 
and,  as  in  Egypt,  they  are  probably  the  only  remains  that  will  be  discov- 
ered in  our  day  and  generation. 

I  shall  have  occasion,  hereafter,  to  give  some  descriptions  of  other  Teo- 
callis,  "  Houses  of  God" — and  Teopans,  "  Places  of  God;"  but  I  cannot 
refrain,  in  this  connection,  from  giving  you  some  idea  of  the  condition  of 
the  great  Temple  of  Mexico  at  the  period  of  the  conquest,  as  the  account 
of  it  comes  from  eye-witnesses,  between  whom  there  can  by  no  possibility 
have  been  a  collusion  to  impose  either  upon  the  sovereign  for  whom  the 
one  wrote,  or,  upon  the  mass  of  the  Spanish  nation  to  which  the  writings  of 
the  others  were  addressed. 

It  is  related  that  in  the  year  1486,  Ahuitzotl,  the  eighth  King  of  Mexico 
and  predecessor  of  Montezuma,  completed  the  great  Teocalli  in  his 
capital. 

*  This  magnificent  edifice  occupied  the  centre  of  the  city,  and,  together 
with  the  other  temples  and  buildings  annexed  to  it,  comprehended  all  that 
space  upon  which  the  great  Cathedral  church  now  stands,  part  of  the 
greater  market  place,  and  part  of  the  neighboring  streets  and  buildings. 

It  was  surrounded  by  a  wall  eight  feet  thick,  built  of  stone  and  lime, 
crowned  with  battlements  in  the  form  of  niches,  and  ornamented  with 
many  stone  figures  in  the  shape  of  serpents.  Within  this  inclosure,  it  is 
affirmed  by  Cortez,  that  a  town  of  five  hundred  houses  might  have  been 
built! 

It  had  four  gates  fronting  the  cardinal  points,  and  over  each  portal  was 
a  military  arsenal  filled  with  needful  equipments. 

The  space  within  the  walls  was  beautifully  paved  with  polished  stones, 
so  smooth  that  the  horses  of  the  Spaniards  "  could  not  move  over  them 
without  slipping,"  and  in  the  centre  of  this  splendid  area  arose  the  great 
Teocalli.  This  was  an  immense  truncated  pyramid  of  earth  and  stones, 
composed  of  four  stories  or  bodies ;  an  idea  of  which  may  perhaps  be 
obtained  by  an  inspection  of  the  following  drawing,  taken  from  one  made 
by  the  Anonymous  Conqueror,  which  may  be  found  in  the  collection  of 
Ramusis,  and  in  the  CEdipus  JEgyptiacus  of  Father  Kircher. 

*  I  eive  the  description  of  Clavigero  and  Dr.  McCulloh,  founded  an  the  authority  of  Cortez's  Letters  to 
Charles  V.,  Bemal  Diaz,  Sahagun,  and  the  Anonymous  Conqueror. 


GREAT     TEOCALLI. 


117 


The  top  of  this  pyramid  (as  appears  from  the  design)  was  not  reached  by 
a  flight  of  steps  from  the  base  on  the  front  of  the  edifice,  but  by  a  stairway 
passing  from  body  to  body;  so  that  a  person,  in  ascending,  was  obliged  to 
move  four  times  around  the  whole  of  the  Teocalli  before  he  reached  its 
summit.  The  width  of  these  spaces  or  stories,  at  the  base  of  each  body, 
was  five  or  six  feet,  and  it  is  alleged  that  three  or  four  persons  abreast 
could  easily  pass  round  them. 

There  is  some  difference  of  opinion  among  the  old  writers,  as  to  the 
dimensions  of  the  mound;  but  Clavigero,  after  a  laborious  investigation, 
comes  to  the  conclusion,  "  that  the  first  body  or  base  of  the  building, 
was  more  than  fifty  perches  long  from  east  to  west,  and  about  forty-three 
in  breadth  from  north  to  south  ;  the  second  body  was  about  a  perch  less  in 
length  and  breadth ;  the  third  so  much  less  than  the  second,  and  the  rest 
in  proportion."  Dr.  McCulloh,  relying  on  Gomara  and  Humboldt,  states 
that  the  mound  was  faced  with  stone,  and  was  320  feet  square  at  the  base, 
and  120  feet  high. 

In  the  drawing  just  given,  it  will  be  observed  that  there  are  two  towers 
erected  on  the  upper  surface,  and  Clavigero  so  describes  the  edifice  ;  but 
the  learned  author  of  Researches  on  American  Aboriginal  History,  found- 


118  MEXICO. 

ing  his  opinion  on  Gomara  and  Bernal  Diaz,  ventures  to  differ  from  Cla- 
vigero.  Diaz  says  there  was  but  one,  and  those  who  read  his  work,  in  the 
original,  will  not  fail  to  be  struck  with  the  air  of  accuracy  and  truth  with 
which  the  whole  story  of  that  brave  old  soldier  is  given  from  beginning 
to  end. 

There  is  no  question,  however,  that  there  was  at  least  one  tower,  raised 
to  nearly  the  height  of  fifty-six  feet.  It  was  divided  into  three  stories,  the 
lower  one  of  stone  and  mortar ;  the  others  of  wood,  neatly  wrought  and 
painted.  The  inferior  portion  of  this  edifice  was  tlie  Sanctuary ;  where, 
Diaz  relates,  two  highly  adorned  altars  were  erected  to  Huitzilopotchtli 
and  Tezcatlipoca,  over  which  the  idol  images  were  placed  in  state. 

Before  these  towers,  or  tower,  on  two  vases  or  altars,  "  as  high  as  a  man," 
a  fire  was  kept  day  and  night,  and  its  accidental  extinguishment  was 
dreaded,  as  sure  to  be  followed  by  the  wrath  of  Heaven. 

In  addition  to  this  great  Teocalli,  there  were  forty  other  temples  dedi- 
cated to  the  gods,  within  the  area  of  the  serpent-covered  wall.  There 
was  the  Tezcacalli,  or  "  House  of  Mirrors,"  the  walls  of  which  were  cov- 
ered with  brightly  shining  materials.  There  was  the  Teccizcalli,  a  house 
adorned  with  shells,  to  which  the  sovereign  retired  at  times  for  fasting, 
solitude  and  prayer.  There  were  temples  to  Tezcatlipoca,  Tlaloc,  and 
Qaetzalcoatl — the  shrine  of  the  latter  being  circular,  while  those  of  the 
others  were  square.  "  The  entrance"  says  Clavigero,  "  to  this  sanctuary 
was  by  the  mouth  of  an  enormous  serpent  of  stone,  armed  with  fangs  ;  and 
the  Spaniards  who,  tempted  by  their  curiosity,  ventured  to  enter,  after- 
ward confessed  their  horror  when  they  beheld  the  interior."  It  is  said, 
that  among  these  temples  was  one  dedicated  to  the  planet  Venus  ;  and  that 
they  sacrificed  a  number  of  prisoners,  at  the  time  of  her  appearance, 
before  a  huge  pillar,  upon  which  was  engraved  the  figure  of  a  star. 

The  Colleges  of  the  priests,  and  their  seminaries,  were  likewise  various 
and  perhaps  numerous  ;  "  but  only  five  are  particularly  known,  although 
there  must  have  been  more,  from  the  prodigious  number  of  persons  who 
were  found  in  that  place  consecrated  to  the  worship  of  the  gods." 

Besides  these  edifices  of  religious  retirement  and  learning,  there  was  a. 
house  of  entertainment  to  accommodate  strangers  of  eminence,  who  piously 
came  to  vis-it  the  Temple,  or  to  see  the  " grandeurs  of  the  Court."  There 
were  ponds,  in  which  the  priests  bathed  at  midnight,  and  many  beautiful 
fountains,  one  of  which  was  deemed  holy,  and  only  used  on  the  most 
solemn  festivals. 

Then  there  were  gardens  where  flowers  and  sweet-smelling  herbs  were 
raised  for  the  decoration  of  the  altars,  and  among  which  they  frd  the 
birds  used  in  sacrifices  to  certain  idols.  It  is  said,  that  there  was  even 
a  little  wood  or  grove  filled  with  "hills,  rocks,  and  precipices,"  from 
which,  upon  one  of  their  solemn  festivals,  the  priests  issued  in  a  mimic 
chase. 

Without  entering  on  a  more  extended  description  of  the  Mexican  tem- 
ples, and  the  lives,  character,  and  occupations  of  the  priesthood,  I  will 


GROUP  EHOM  THE  SIDE  OK  THE  SACRIFICIAL  SI  one. 


SACRIFICIAL     STONE.  119 

conclude  this  branch  of  an  interesting  antiquarian  subject,  by  referring 
all  who  are  curious  in  such  matters,  to  the  very  interesting  volumes  of 
the  Abbe  Clavigero,  who,  after  a  residence  of  near  forty  years  in  the  prov- 
inces of  New  Spain,  composed  his  history  of  Mexico.  His  life  had  been 
passed  in  deep  study  of  the  Indian  and  Spanish  writers,  and  the  results  of 
his  well-digested  labors  have,  after  near  half  a  century,  passed  to  our 
times  as  indisputable  authority. 

But  after  instructing  you  in  some  degree  in  the  history  of  the  priest- 
hood and  the  temples,  it  would  be  improper  for  me  to  leave  the  subject 
without  an  account  of  the  services  to  which  they  were  both  devoted. 

The  chief  of  these  were  the  sacrifices — and  in  illustration  of  them,  I 
have  placed  at  the  commencement  of  this  letter,  a  drawing  of  the  large 
circular  stone  now  in  the  University  of  Mexico,  known  by  the  name  of 
the  "  Piedra  de  Sacrificios,"  or  Sacrificial  Stone.  It  is  an  immense  mass 
of  basalt,  nine  feet  in  diameter  and  three  in  height,  and  was  found  in  1790, 
below  the  great  square  of  Mexico,  on  the  site  of  the  Teocalli,  which  I 
have  just  described. 

When  first  discovered,  this  stone  was  overturned ;  but,  upon  reversing 
it,  carvings  in  bas-relief  were  seen  on  the  surface,  and  the  sides  were 
found  to  be  beautifully  sculptured,  as  will  be  observed  in  the  opposite 
plate. 

In  the  centre  of  the  upper  surface  there  is  a  circular  cavity,  from 
which  a  canal,  or  gutter,  leads  to  the  circumference  of  the  cylinder  and 
partly  down  its  side.  This,  together  with  the  sculpture,  has  induced  most 
writers  to  believe  it  to  have  been  the  stone  on  which  the  priests  performed 
their  sacrifices,  and  that  the  blood  of  the  victims  flowed  from  it  by  these 
evident  conduits.  Yet  other  authors  doubt  whether  it  was  ever  appropri- 
ated to  this  use.  It  is  true,  that  in  the  description  of  the  great  Temple 
given  by  the  old  writers,  it  is  alleged  that  in  front  of  the  tower,  on  the 
summit,  there  was  a  large  convex  stone  upon  which  they  extended  the 
person  who  was  to  be  sacrificed  ;  but  it  is  highly  probable  that  so  huge  a 
mass  of  rock  as  this,*  could  not  have  been  borne  up  such  intricate  passages 
as  the  steps  of  the  Teocalli,  to  the  height  of  120  feet.  De  Gama  is  of  opin- 
ion that  these  stones  were  also  found  in  the  square  below,  in  the  temples, 
or  before  the  altars  of  other  deities ;  and,  im  the  description  of  those  in 
the  temples  of  Huitzilopolchtli  and  Tlaloc,  Doctor  Hernandez  says  they 
were  "  convexas  et  orbiculari  forma"  and  called  "  Techcatl."  "Ante 
has"  (meusulas)  "  aderant  lapidas  orbiculari  forma,  quibus  techcatl  no- 
men,  ubi  servi,  at  in  proeliis  capti,  in  horum  Deorum  honorem  macta- 
bantur,  e  quibus  lapidibus  in  parimentum  usque  in  infernum  civi  sanguinei 
conspicieba?itur  vestigia,  quod  etiam  videbatur  in  cozteris  turribus ." 

With  these  authorities,  and  apparent  appropriateness  from  the  cavi- 
ties already  described,  it  is,  nevertheless,  the  opinion  of  De  Gama  that  this 
was  neither  a  Stone  of  Sacrifice,  nor  the  Gladiatorial  Stone.     Such,  how- 

*  Nine  feet  in  diameter  by  three  feet  high. 


120  MEXICO. 

ever,  is  its  name,  and  such  the  opinion  of  most  persons  in  Mexico  ;  and, 
although  I  should  not  perhaps,  in  justice,  venture  to  express  an  opinion, 
yet  I  cannot  help  believing  with  the  majority. 

When  we  look  at  the  sculpture  at  the  sides,  we  are  struck  with  the  fit- 
ness of  the  adornment  for  sacrificial  ceremonies.  The  Mexicans  un- 
doubtedly sacrificed  the  captives  they  had  taken  in  battle,  and  the  bas-relief 
evidently  represents  a  conqueror  and  a  captive.  The  victor's  hand  is 
raised  in  the  act  of  tearing  the  plumes  from  his  prisoner's  crest,  while  the 
captive  bows  beneath  the  indignity,  and  prostrates  his  arms : — and  here  let 
me  invite  the  reader's  attention  to  the  great  similarity  of  these  figures  and 
their  dresses,  to  those  delineated  by  Catherwood  and  Stephens,  as  having 
been  found  in  Yucatan  and  at  Palenque.* 


I  will  now  give  you  some  account  of  the  Mexican  Sacrifices.  These 
were  of  two  kinds :  the  common  sacrifice  of  human  victims,  and  the 
"  Gladiatorial  Sacrifice." 

It  is  supposed,  that  neither  the  Toltecs  nor  Chechemicas  permitted  hu- 
man sacrifices,  and  that  it  was  reserved  for  the  successors  of  these  occu- 
pants of  the  Vale  of  Analmac  to  institute  the  abominable  practice.  The 
history  of  the  Aztec  tribe  reveals  to  us  the  fact,  that  it  fought  itself  gradu- 
ally to  power.  The  Mexicans  founded  their  Empire  first  among  the  la- 
gunes  and  marshes  of  the  lake  ;  and  it  grew,  by  slow  degrees,  to  the 
power  and  wealth  it  possessed  at  the  period  of  the  conquest. 

When  I  encounter  in  Mexican  history  a  monstrous  fact  like  this,  of  the 
sacrifice  to  the  gods  of  the  unfortunate  prisoners  who  had  fallen  into 
their  power  in  battle ;  I  am  not  deterred,  by  its  enormity,  from  inquiring 
whether  some  secret  policy  may  not  have  originated  the  horrid  rite.  The 
mind  naturally  revolts  at  the  idea  that  it  sprang  from  a  mere  brutal  love 
of  blood,  or  that  a  nation  could,  at  any  period  of  the  world,  have  been  so 
cruel  and  so  inhuman  ! 

In  reviewing,  then,  the  history  of  the  Empire  of  a  weak  but  bold  and 
ambitious  people — fighting  for  a  foothold  ;  becoming  powerful  only  as  it 
was  able  to  inspire  its  enemies  with  terror ;  unable  to  maintain,  subdue, 
or  imprison  its  captives — we  may  ask  ourselves,  whether  it  was  not  rather 
a  stroke  of  savage  statesmanship  in  the  Chiefs  of  the  time,  to  make  a  merit 
of  necessity,  and  a  holy  and  religious  rite  of  what,  under  other  circum- 
stances and  in  a  later  period  of  the  world,  has  been  considered  a  murder  1 

And  such,  I  believe,  to  have  been  the  beginning  of  the  Mexican  sacri- 
fices. A  weak  people  unable  to  control,  enslave,  or  trust  its  prisoners, 
devoted  them  to  the  gods.  But,  in  the  progress  of  time,  when  that  nation 
had  acquired  a  strength  equal  to  any  emergency,  this  ceremony,  too,  had 
become  a  prescriptive  usage — a  traditionary  and  most  important  part  of 
the  religion  itself;  and  thus,  what  in  its  inception  was  the  policy  of  fee- 

*  Vide  Btephetu'l  Yucatan,  vol.  i,  pp.  412  and  4.13,  and  the  plates  opposite  tliem. 


HUMAN     SACRIFICES. 


121 


bleness,  ended  in  an  established  principle  of  the  mythology  of  a  powerful 
and  even  civilized  Empire. 


Let  us  now  proceed  to  consider  the  manner  in  which  these  sacrifices 
were  conducted. 

The  usual  number  of  priests  required  at  the  altar  was  six,  one  of  whom 
acted  as  Sacrificer  and  the  others  as  his  assistants.  The  Chief  of  these, 
whose  office  and  dignity  were  preeminent,  assumed  at  every  sacrifice  the 
name  of  the  deity  to  whom  the  oblation  was  made. 

His  dress  was  a  red  habit,  like  the  Roman  scapulary,  fringed  with  cot- 
ton ;  his  head  was  bound  with  a  crown  of  green  and  yellow  feathers ; 
his  ears  were  adorned  with  emeralds,  and  from  his  lips  depended  a  tur- 
quoise. The  other  ministers  at  the  rite  were  clad  in  white,  embroidered 
with  black  :  their  locks  bound  up,  their  heads  covered  with  leather  thongs, 
their  foreheads  filleted  with  slips  of  paper  of  various  colors,  and  their 
bodies  dyed  entirely  black. 

They  dressed  the  victim  in  the  insignia  of  the  god  to  whom  he  was  to 
be  offered ;  adored  him  as  they  would  have  adored  the  divinity  himself ; 
and  bore  him  around  the  city  asking  alms  for  the  temple.  He  was  then 
carried  to  the  top  of  the  temple  and  extended  upon  the  stone  of  sacrifice. 

Four  of  the  priests  held  his  limbs,  and  another  kept  his  head  or  neck 
firm  with  a  yoke,  an  original  of  which  is  preserved  in  the  Museum,  and 
is  here  represented. 


SACEI  FIC  UL     YOKE. 


122 


MEXICO. 


Thus  arranged,  the  body  of  the  captive  lay  arched  over  the  rounded 
stone,  with  the  breast  and  stomach  stretched  and  raised. 

The  Topiltzin,  or  Sacrificer,  then  approached  with  a  sharp  knife  of 
obsidian. 


SACRIFICIAL      KNIFE      OF      OBSIDIAN. 


lie  made  an  incision  in  the  victim's  breast ;  tore  out  his  heart  with  his 
hand ;  offered  it  to  the  sun,  and  then  threw  it  palpitating  at  the  feet  of  the 
god. 

If  the  idol  was  large  and  hollow,  it  was  usual  to  insert  the  heart  in 
its  mouth  with  a  golden  spoon  ;  and  at  other  times  it  "  was  taken  up  from 
the  ground  again,  offered  to  the  idol,  burned,  and  the  ashes  preserved  with 
the  greatest  veneration." 

"  After  these  ceremonies,"  says  Dr.  McCulloh,  "  the  body  was  thrown 
from  the  top  of  the  temple,  whence  it  was  taken  by  the  person  who  had 
offered  the  sacrifice,  and  carried  to  his  house,  where  it  was  eaten  by  him- 
self and  friends.  The  remainder  was  burned,  or  carried  to  the  royal 
menageries  to  feed  the  wild  beasts  /" 

At  times  they  offered  only  flowers,  fruits,  oblations  of  bread,  cooked 
meats,  (like  the  Chinese,)  copal  and  gums,  quails,  falcons,  and  rabbits ; 
but,  at  the  feasts  of  some  of  the  deities,  especially  every  fourth  year, 
among  the  Quanhtitlans,  the  rites  were  dreadfully  inhuman. 

Six  trees  were  then  planted  in  the  area  of  the  temple,  and  two  slaves 
were  sacrificed,  from  whose  bodies  the  skin  was  stripped,  and  the  thigh- 
bones withdrawn.  On  the  following  day,  "  clad  in  the  bloody  skins  with 
the  thigh-bones  in  their  hands,"  two  of  the  chief  priests  slowly  descended 
the  steps  of  the  temple,  with  dismal  howlings,  while  the  multitude  assem- 
bled below  shouted,  "  Behold  our  gods  !" 

At  the  base  of  the  temple  they  danced  to  the  sound  of  music,  while  the 
people  sacrificed  several  thousand  quails.  When  this  oblation  was  ter- 
minated, the  priests  fastened  to  the  tops  of  the  trees  six  prisoners,  who 
were  immediately  pierced  with  arrows.  They  then  cut  the  bodies  from 
the  trees  and  threw  them  to  the  earth,  where  their  breasts  were  torn 
open,  and  the  hearts  wrenched  out  according  to  the  usual  custom.  This 
bloody  and  cruel  festival  was  ended  by  a  banquet,  in  which  the  priests 
and  nobles  of  the  city  feasted  on  the  quails  and  the  human  jlcsh! 


HUMAN     SACRIFICES. 


123 


The  other  mode  of  sacrifice,  as  I  have  before  said,  was  the  "  Gladia- 
torial." 


GLADIATORIAL      STONE. 


The  stone,  of  which  the  foregoing  plate  is  an  outline,  was,  (like  the 
Sacrificial  Stone,)  found  in  the  great  square  of  Mexico,  where  it  still  lies 
buried,  for  want  of  the  trifling  sum  required  to  disinter  it  once  more,  and 
place  it  in  the  Museum. 

When  the  square  was  undergoing  repairs,  some  years  past,  this  monu- 
ment was  discovered  a  short  distance  beneath  the  surface.  Mr.  Gondra 
endeavored  to  have  it  removed,  but  the  Government  refused  to  incur  the 
expense  ;  and  its  dimensions,  as  he  tells  me,  being  exactly  those  of  the 
Sacrificial  Stone,  (viz.  nine  feet  by  three,)  he  declined  undertaking  it  on 
his  own  account.  Yet,  anxious  to  preserve,  if  possible,  some  record  of 
the  carving  with  which  it  was  covered,  (especially  as  that  carving  was 
painted  with  yellow,  red,  green,  crimson,  and  black,  and  the  colors  still 


124  MEXICO. 

quite  vivid,)  he  had  a  drawing  made,  of  which  the  sketch  in  this  work  is 
a  fac-simile. 

Mr.  Gondra  believes  it  to  have  been  the  Gladiatorial  Stone,  placed  per- 
haps opposite  the  great  Sacrificial  Stone,  at  the  base  of  the  Teocalli. 
This,  however,  would  not  agree  with  the  accounts  of  some  of  the  old 
writers,  who,  although  they  agree  that  this  stone  was  circular,  as  is  signi- 
fied by  its  name,  (Temalacatl)  yet  state  that  its  surface  was  smooth,  and 
had  in  its  centre  a  bore  or  bolt,  by  which  the  captive  was  attached,  as 
will  be  hereafter  described. 

The  figures  represented  on  the  stone  in  relief,  are  evidently  those  of 
warriors  armed,  and  ready  for  the  strife  ;  and  I  have  thought  it  proper  to 
give  the  picture  of  it  to  the  public,  for  the  first  time,  (subject,  of  course, 
to  all  critical  observations,)  with  the  hope  that  if  it  be  not  the  Gladiatorial 
Stone,  those  who  are  more  learned  in  Mexican  antiquity,  may  some  day 
discover  what  it  really  is.  It  is  certainly  remarkable  for  the  colors, 
which  are  yet  fresh ;  and  for  the  figure  of  the  "  open  hand,"  which  is 
sculptured  on  a  shield  and  between  the  legs  of  some  of  the  figures  of 
the  groups  at  the  sides.  This  "  open  hand  "  was  a  figure  found  by  Mr. 
Stephens,  in  almost  every  temple  he  visited,  during  his  recent  explora- 
tions of  Yucatan.* 


The  Gladiatorial  Sacrifice — the  most  noble  of  them  all — was  reserved 
alone  for  captives  renowned  for  courage. 

In  an  area,  near  the  temple,  large  enough  to  contain  a  vast  crowd  of 
spectators,  upon  a  raised  terrace  eight  feet  from  the  wall,  was  a  circular 
stone,  "  resembling  a  mill-stone,'*  says  Clavigero,j-  "  which  was  three  feet 
high,  well  polished,  and  with  figures  cut  on  it."  On  this  the  prisoner  was 
placed,  tied  by  one  foot,  and  armed  with  a  small  sword  and  shield  ;  while 
a  Mexican  soldier  or  officer,  better  armed  and  accoutred,  mounted  to  en- 
counter him  in  deadly  conflict.  The  efforts  of  the  brave  prisoner  were 
of  course  redoubled  to  save  his  life  and  fame,  as  were  those  of  the  Mex- 
ican, whose  countrymen  gazed  with  anxiety  upon  him  as  the  vindicator 
of  their  nation's  skill  and  glory.  If  the  captive  was  vanquished  in  the 
combat,  he  was  immediately  borne  "  to  the  altar  of  common  sacrifice," 
and  his  heart  torn  out,  while  the  multitude  applauded  the  victor,  who  was 
rewarded  by  his  sovereign.  Some  historians  declare,  that  if  the  prisoner 
vanquished  one  combatant  he  was  free ;  but  Cortez  tells  us  that  he  was 
not  granted  his  life  and  liberty  until  he  had  overcome  six.  It  was  then, 
only,  that  the  spoils  taken  from  him  in  war  were  restored,  and  he  was 
allowed  to  return  to  his  native  land. 

It  is  related  that  once  when  the  chief  lord  of  the  Cholulans  had  become 
captive  to  the  Huexotzincas,  he  overthrew,  in  the  gladiatorial  fight,  seven 

*  Clavigero,  vol.  ii.,  280. 

t  I  have  not  caused  the  figures  on  the  sides  of  this  stone  to  be  engraved  in  the  present  edition. 


HUMAN    SACRIFICES.  125 

of  the  foes  who  came  to  encounter  him  ;  and  being  thus  entitled  to  his 
fortune  and  liberty,  he  was  nevertheless  slain  by  his  enemies,  who  feared 
so  valiant  and  fortunate  a  chieftain.  By  this  perfidious  act,  the  nation 
rendered  itself  eternally  infamous  among  all  the  rest. 

The  number  of  the  victims,  with  whose  blood  the  Teocallis  of  Mexico 
were  in  this  manner,  and  in  the  "common  sacrifice"  annually  deluged, 
is  not  precisely  known.  Clavigero  thinks  20,000  nearer  the  truth  than 
any  of  the  other  relations ;  but  the  question  may  well  be  asked,  Whence 
came  the  subjects  to  glut  the  gods  with  these  periodical  sacrifices  ?  It 
seems  that  no  land  could  furnish  them  without  depopulation. 

In  the  consecration  of  the  Great  Temple,  however,  which,  it  is  related, 
took  place  in  the  year  1486,  under  the  predecessor  of  Montezuma,  there 
appears  no  doubt  among  those  who  have  most  carefully  examined  the 
matter,  that  its  walls  and  stairways,  its  altars  and  shrines,  were  baptized 
and  consecrated  with  the  blood  of  more  than  sixty  thousand  victims.  "  To 
make  these  horrible  offerings"  says  the  historian,  "  with  more  show  and 
parade,  they  ranged  the  prisoners  in  two  files,  each  a  mile  and  a  half  in 
length,  which  began  in  the  woods  of  Tacuba  and  Iztpalapan,  and  termin- 
ated at  the  Temple,  where,  as  soon  as  the  victims  arrived,  they  were 
sacrificed." 

Six  millions  of  people,  it  is  said,  attended,  and  if  this  is  not  an  exag- 
geration of  tradition,  there  can  be  no  wonder  whence  the  captives  sprung, 
or  why  the  rite  of  sacrifice  was  instituted.  If  anything  can  pardon  the 
cupidity  and  blood-thirstiness  of  the  Christian  Spaniard,  for  his  overthrow 
of  the  Temple  and  Monarchy  of  Mexico ;  it  is  to  be  found  in  the  cruel 
murders  which  were  perpetrated,  by  the  immolation  of  thousands  of  im- 
mortal beings  to  a  blind  and  bloody  idolatry. 


LETTER    XIX. 


THE    MEXICAN    CALENDAR.       FIRE-WORSHIP,  ETC 


Tzm 


Mm^miut^iMjm^^M 


igipg^ 


MEXICAN    CALENDAR.  127 

The  carved  stone  represented  in  the  plate  was  found  in  the  year  1790, 
about  six  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  Plaza,  in  the  city  of  Mexico.  The 
opinion  of  the  best  antiquarians  is,  that  it  was  the  Tonalponalli,  or  "  solar 
reckoning  "  of  the  ancient  Mexicans,  derived  by  them  probably  from  the 
Toltecs. 

Before  describing  this  relic,  I  will  present  a  brief  account  of  the 
division  of  time  among  these  nations,  illustrating  in  this  manner  and  by 
the  stone  itself,  one  branch  of  the  arts  and  sciences,  at  least,  in  which 
they  had  made  a  great  and  civilized  progress. 

The  Mexicans  had  two  Calendars  by  which  they  computed  Time  ;  the 
first  being  used  for  the  "  reckoning  of  the  moon,"  and  the  regulation  of 
their  religious  festivals,  and  the  other  for  the  "  reckoning  of  the  sun,"  or 
civil  purposes. 

Their  civil  year  consisted  of  18  months  of  20  days  each,  by  which 
division  they  gave  the  year  360  days;  but  the  remaining  five  days  were 
added  to  the  last  month,  and  bore  the  name  of  nemontemi,  or  "  useless 
days." 

The  tropical  year  being  six  hours  longer  than  365  days,  they  lost  a 
day  every  four  years ;  but  this  fact  appears  to  have  been  entirely  disre- 
garded by  them  in  their  calculations,  until  the  expiration  of  their  cycle 
of  52  years ;  when,  having  lost,  in  all,  13  days,  they  added  that  number 
to  the  period,  before  they  commenced  another  cycle. 

The  18  months  had  each  a  name  derived  from  some  festival,  bird, 
plant,  or  fruit,  occurring  or  appearing  at  that  season,  which  name  was 
designated  by  a  peculiar  hieroglyphic.  The  20  days  of  the  month  had 
also  each  a  name  and  mark,  that  was  ever  the  same  in  all  the  eighteen. 
They  reckoned  by  cycles  of  52  years ;  and  subdivided  the  months  into 
four  periods,  or  weeks  of  five  days ;  each  day  of  which  commenced, 
as  among  the  Romans  and  other  nations,  at  sunrise,  and  was  separated 
into  eight  portions.* 


The  stone  (of  which  I  have  presented  an  extremely  accurate  drawing 
from  one  made  with  the  greatest  care  by  De  Gama,)  is  now  walled  against 
the  base  of  one  of  the  towers  of  the  Cathedral,  where  it  passes  by  the 
name  of  el  Relox  de  Montezuma,  or  "  Montezuma's  watch."  It  is  a  vast 
mass  of  basalt,  eleven  feet  eight  inches  in  diameter,  and  the  circular  portion 
is  raised  by  a  rim  of  about  1\  inches  from  the  broken  square  of  basalt, 
out  of  which  the  whole  was  originally  carved.  This  rim  is  adorned  with 
the  sculpture  represented  in  the  second  figure. 

De  Gama,  in  his  "  Biscripcion  Historical  has  prepared  a  long  and 
very  learned  account  of  the  various  figures  and  symbols  with  which  this 
Calendar  is  covered,  and  from  his  observations,  and  those  of  Nebel,  I  have 

*  McCulloh's  Res  :  201,  et  seq. 


128  MEXICO. 

digested  the  following  description.  Involved  as  almost  all  antiquarian 
researches  are  in  obscurity,  and  free  as  those  who  engage  in  them  are  to 
mix  up  their  fancies  and  theories  with  the  slightest  facts  upon  which  thev 
can  found  a  hypothesis,  I  confess  that  1  do  not  rely  entirely  upon  the 
surmises  of  the  writers  I  have  cited.  Yet  they  are  the  only  persons  who 
have  hitherto  attempted  to  unravei  the  mystery,  and  I  am  therefore  obliged 
either  to  present  their  conjectures  or  none. 

The  large  head  in  the  centre,  with  a  protruding  tongue,  is  said  to  repre- 
sent the  sun ;  while  the  triangular  figures  marked  with  the  letter  R,  and 
the  other  figures  marked  with  the  letter  L,  denote  tbe  larger  and  lesser 
rays  with  which  the  Indians  surrounded  that  luminary. 

Around  this  central  sun  are  four  squares,  denoted  by  A,  B,  C,  D, 
which,  together  with  the  circular  figures  E  F  at  the  sides  of  the  triangle, 
I,  at  the  top,  and  the  character  H  at  the  bottom,  combined,  (according  to 
De  Gama,)  to  form  the  symbol  of  the  sun's  movement — or  perhaps  the 
symbols  of  the  four  weeks  into  which  the  month  was  divided. 

The  hieroglyphs  denoted  by  the  numerals  1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6sc.  up  to  20, 
are  the  days  of  the  month,  and  the  rest  of  the  figures  around  the  zone  are 
somewhat  fancifully  said  to  represent  the  milky  way  known  to  the  an- 
cients by  the  name  of  Citlalinycue.  By  an  equal  stretch  of  the  imagina- 
tion, the  waving  lines,  marked  V,  are  supposed  to  indicate  the  clouds, 
which  were  venerated  as  gods  called  Almaque,  the  inseparable  com- 
panions of  Tlaloc.  De  Gama  thinks  that  the  small  squares  at  e  are 
symbols  of  the  mountains  where  the  clouds  are  formed.  Such  are  the 
satisfactory  conjectures  of  antiquarians  ! 

Gnomons  were  placed  in  the  holes  at  X,  Z,  PP,  QQ,  and  YY  ;  the 
stone  was  then  set  up  vertically  due  east  and  west,  with  its  carved  face 
to  the  south ;  and  by  means  of  threads  stretched  from  the  tops  of  the  gno- 
mons and  the  shadows  they  cast  on  the  surface  of  the  stone,  the  seasons 
of  the  year,  and  the  periods  of  the  day,  were  determined  with  astronomi- 
cal accuracy. 

******* 
******  * 

Various  other  carved  stones  intended  for  astronomical  purposes,  have 
been  discovered  at  different  times  throughout  the  Valley  of  Mexico  and 
its  neighborhood.  De  Gama  relates,  that  "  in  the  year  1775,  while  labor- 
ers were  excavating  at  the  hill  of  Chalpultepec,  they  laid  bare  a  cluster 
of  curiously  sculptured  rocks,  which,  after  a  careful  examination,  he 
believed  had  once  formed  a  portion  of  the  system  by  which  the  Mexicans 
determined  the  exact  periods  of  sunrise  and  sunset  at  the  equinoxes,  and 
regulated  the  time  during  the  remainder  of  the  year."  But  when  he 
returned  to  the  hill  for  the  purpose  of  further  investigation,  he  found  these 
rocks  and  all  their  carving  had  been  destroyed  by  the  ignorant  excavators, 


FIRE    WORSHIP.  129 

through  the  utter  carelessness  and  neglect  of  the  authorities  of  the  place. 
The  same  fate  was  shared  by  another  astronomical  erection,  which  was 
found  on  the  hill  of  Tezcosingo,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  lake  of  Tez- 
coco,  to  which  I  shall  have  occasion  to  allude  in  an  account  of  a  visit  I 
paid  to  the  pyramids  of  St.  Juan  Teotihuacan. 

These  are  the  few  hasty  and  very  imperfect  sketches  I  have  collected, 
to  illustrate  one  branch  of  the  art  and  science  of  these  people  ;  and  I  will 
conclude  them  by  an  account  of  a  singular  superstition  which  is  related 
by  the  Baron  Humboldt  to  have  existed,  in  regard  to  the  termination  of 
their  cycle  of  52  years.  They  firmly  believed  that  the  sun  would  return 
no  more  on  his  diurnal  course,  and  that  evil  spirits  would  descend  to 
destroy  mankind ! 

"  On  the  last  day  of  the  great  cycle  the  sacred  fires  were  extinguished 
in  all  their  temples  and  dwellings,  and  the  people  devoted  themselves  to 
prayer.  At  the  approach  of  night  no  one  dared  to  kindle  a  flame — their 
vessels  of  clay  were  broken,  their  garments  rent,  and  whatever  was  pre- 
cious destroyed  as  .useless  in  the  approaching  ruin.  In  this  mad  super- 
stition, pregnant  women  became  the  objects  of  peculiar  horror  to  men; 
they  covered  their  faces  with  paper  masks,  they  imprisoned  them  in  their 
granaries;  and  believed  that  when  the  final  catastrophe  occurred,  these 
unfortunate  females,  transformed  into  tigers,  would  join  with  the  demons 
and  avenge  themselves  for  the  injustice  and  cruelty  of  men. 

"  As  soon  as  it  became  dark  on  that  awful  evening,  a  grand  and 
solemn  procession  of  the  "New  Fire"  was  commenced.  The  priests  put 
on  the  garments  of  the  various  idols,  and  followed  by  the  sad  and  bewild- 
ered people,  ascended  a  hill  about  six  miles  from  the  city. 

"  This  mournful  march  was  called  the  "  procession  of  the  gods,"  and 
was  supposed  to  be  their  final  departure  from  their  temples  and  altars. 

"  When  the  solemn  train  had  reached  the  top  of  the  hill,  it  rested  until 
the  pleiades  ascended  to  the  zenith,  and  then  commenced  the  sacrifice  of 
a  human  victim,  stretched  on  the  stone  of  sacrifice,  and  covered  on  the 
breast  with  a  wooden  shield  which  the  chief  priest  inflamed  by  friction. 

"  The  victim  received  the  fatal  blow  or  wound  from  the  usual  obsidian 
knife  of  sacrifice,  and  as  soon  as  life  was  extinct,  the  machine  to  create 
fire  was  put  in  motion  on  the  board  over  his  bosom.  When  the  blaze  had 
kindled,  the  body  was  thrown  on  an  immense  pile,  the  flames  of  which 
instantly  ascended  into  the  air,  and  denoted  the  promise  of  the  sun's  re- 
turn !  All  who  had  been  unable  to  join  in  the  sacred  procession  of  the 
departing  gods,  had  climbed  to  the  terraces  of  houses  and  the  tops  of 
Teocallis,  whence  they  strained  their  eyes  toward  the  spot  where  the 
hoped-for  flame  was  to  appear;  and  as  soon  as  it  burst  upon  their  sight, 
hailed  it  with  joyful  shouts  and  acclamations,  as  a  token  of  the  benevolence 
of  the  gods  and  the  preservation  of  their  race  for  another  cycle. 

"Runners,  placed  at  regular  distances  from  each  other,  held  aloft 
torches  of  resinous  pine,  by  which  they  transferred  the  new  fire  to  each 
other,  and  carried  it  from  village  to  village,  throughout  the  Empire,  de- 


130  MEXICO. 

positing  it  anew  in  every  temple,  whence  it  was  again  distributed  to  the 
dwellings  of  the  people. 

"  When  the  sun  arose  above  the  horizon  on  the  succeeding  day,  the 
shouting  and  joy  were  renewed  by  the  people  in  the  city,  toward  which 
at  that  moment  the  priests  and  crowd  took  up  the  line  of  returning  march. 
It  was  the  restoration  of  their  gods  to  their  deserted  shrines ! 

"  The  imprisoned  women  were  immediately  released ;  the  whole  popu- 
lation clad  themselves  in  new  garments ;  the  temples  were  purified  and 
whitened,  and  everything  that  was  requisite  for  domestic  comfort,  splendor 
or  necessity,  was  renewed  under  the  promise  of  renewed  life  and  protec- 
tion from  the  gods." 

There  is  scarcely  a  country  of  the  world,  in  which  there  are  not  or 
have  not  been  traces  of  this  adoration  of  the  sun,  the  great  source  of  life, 
light,  fruition,  and  beauty ;  and,  among  the  brutal  rites  of  the  Mexican 
priesthood,  it  is  gratifying  to  observe  a  festival  like  this  which  has  in  itself 
something  natural  and  dramatic. 


LETTER    XX. 


THE    CITY    OF    MEXICO    AS    IT    WAS    AT    THE    CONQUEST. 

After  having  given  an  account  of  the  antiquities  which  survived  the 
ravages  of  the  conquerors,  (who,  with  a  blind  zeal  to  establish  their 
power  and  religion,  overthrew  temple,  tower,  and  almost  every  record  of 
the  Indians,)  it  has  struck  me  that  a  notice  or  sketch  of  the  city  of  Mon- 
tezuma, its  sovereign  and  people,  would  not  be  uninteresting  to  even  the 
most  careless  reader.  I  have,  therefore,  gathered  from  the  letters  of 
Cortez  to  the  Emperor  Charles  the  V.,  and  the  history  of  Bernal  Diaz  del 
Castillo,  such  accounts  as  appear  to  be  most  authentic,  not  only  because 
they  impress  us  with  the  grandeur  and  advanced  civilization  of  the 
Indians,  but  because  they  may  probably  serve  to  establish  a  connection 
between  the  inhabitants  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico  and  the  people  who, 
dwelling  farther  south,  were  the  builders  and  occupants  of  the  temples 
and  palaces  which  have  lately  been  revealed  to  us  in  the  picturesque 
pages  of  Stephens  and  Catherwood. 

"  The  province  which  constitutes  the  principal  territory  of  Montezuma," 
(says  Cortez  in  his  letter  to  Charles  the  V.,)  "  is  circular,  and  entirely  sur- 
rounded by  lofty  and  rugged  mountains,  and  the  circumference  of  it  is 
full  seventy  leagues.  In  this  plain  there  are  two  lakes  which  nearly  oc- 
cupy the  whole  of  it,  as  the  people  use  canoes  for  more  than  fifty  leagues 
round.  One  of  these  lakes  is  of  fresh  water,  and  the  other,  which  is 
larger,  is  of  salt  water.  They  are  divided,  on  one  side,  by  a  small  col- 
lection of  high  hills,  which  stand  in  the  caitre  of  the  plain,  and  they  unite 
in  a  level  strait  formed  between  these  hills  and  the  high  mountains,  which 
strait  is  a  gun-shot  wide,  and  the  people  of  the  cities  and  other  settlements 
which  are  in  these  lakes,  communicate  together  in  their  canoes  by  water, 
without  the  necessity  of  going  by  land.  And  as  this  great  salt  lake  ebbs 
and  flows  with  the  tide,  as  the  sea  does,  in  every  flood  the  water  flows 
from  it  into  the  other  fresh  lake  as  impetuously  as  if  it  were  a  large  river, 
and  consequently  at  the  ebb,  the  fresh  lake  flows  into  the  salt. 

"This  great  city  of  Temixtitlan,  (meaning  Tenotchtitlan,  Mexico,)  is 
founded  in  this  salt  lake ;  and  from  terra  firma  to  the  body  of  the  city,  the 
distance  is  two  leagues  on  which  ever  side  they  please  to  enter  it. 

"  It  has  four  entrances,  or  causeways,  made  by  the  hand  of  man,  as  wide 
as  two  horsemen's  lances. 
9* 


132  MEXICO. 

"  The  city  is  as  large  as  Seville  and  Cordova.  The  streets  (I  mean  the 
principal  ones,)  are  very  wide,  and  others  very  narrow ;  and  some  of  the 
latter  and  all  the  others  are  one-half  land  and  the  other  half  water,  along 
which  the  inhabitants  go  in  their  canoes ;  and  all  the  streets,  at  given 
distances,  are  open,  so  that  the  water  passes  from  one  to  the  other ;  and 
in  all  their  openings,  some  of  which  are  very  wide,  there  are  very  wide 
bridges,  made  of  massive  beams  joined  together  and  well  wrought ;  and 
so  wide  that  ten  horsemen  may  pass  abreast  over  many  of  them." 

Bernal  Diaz  del  Castillo  gives  the  following  account  of  the  entry  of 
the  Spaniards  into  this  city,  on  the  8th  of  November,  1519 ;  the  period 
of  their  first  visit  to  Montezuma,  and  before  they  had  treacherously  ob- 
tained possession  of  the  monarch's  person. 

"  We  proceeded,''"  says  he,  "  by  the  great  causeway,  that  runs  in  a 
straight  line  to  the  city.  It  was  crowded  with  people,  as  were  all  the 
towers,  temples,  and  causeways,  in  every  part  of  the  lake,  attracted  by 
curiosity  to  behold  men  and  animals  such  as  never  before  had  been  seen 
in  these  countries.  When  we  arrived  at  a  place  where  a  small  cause- 
way turns  off  to  the  city  Cuyoacan,  we  were  met  by  a  great  many  of  the 
lords  of  the  court,  sent,  as  they  said,  before  the  great  Montezuma,  to  bid 
us  welcome. 

"  When  we  arrived  near  certain  towers  which  were  almost  close  to 
the  city,  Montezuma,  who  was  then  in  the  neighborhood,  quitted  his  litter 
that  was  borne  in  the  arms  of  the  Princes  of  Tezcoco,  Iztapalapa,  Tacuba, 
and  Cuyoacan,  under  a  canopy  of  the  richest  materials,  ornamented  with 
green  feathers,  gold,  and  precious  stones,  that  hung  in  the  manner  of  fringe. 
He  was  most  richly  dressed  and  adorned,  and  wore  buskins  of  pure  gold 
ornamented  with  jewels.  The  princes  who  supported  him  were  dressed 
in  rich  habits,  different  from  those  in  which  they  had  come  to  meet  us 
previously;  and  others,  who  preceded  the  monarch,  spread  mantles  on 
the  ground  lest  his  feet  should  touch  it.  All  who  attended  him,  except 
the  four  princes,  kept  their  eyes  fixed  on  the  earth,  not  daring  to  look  him 
in  the  face." 

They  entered  the  city.  "Who,"  continues  Diaz,  "could  count  the 
multitudes  of  men,  women,  andchildren,  who  thronged  the  streets,  canals, 
and  terraces,  and  the  tops  of  the  houses,  on  that  day ! 

"  The  whole  of  what  I  saw  on  this  occasion  is  so  strongly  imprinted  on 
my  memory,  that  it  appears  to  me  as  if  it  had  happened  only  yesterday. 
Glory  to  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ,  who  gave  us  courage  to  venture  on  such 
dangers,  and  brought  us  safely  through  them !" 

Lodgings  were  provided  for  the  Spaniards  by  the  luxurious  and  lavish 
monarch — they  were  fed  and  entertained  at  his  cost,  and  presents  were 
made  to  all.  "  Montezuma,"  says  the  historian,  "  made  signs  to  one  of 
his  principal  attendants,  to  order  his  officers  to  bring  him  certain  pieces 
of  gold  to  give  to  Cort£z — together  with  ten  loads  of  fine  stuffs  which  he 
divided  between  Cortez  and  his  captains,  and  to  every  soldier  he  gave 
two  collars  of  gold,  each  worth  ten  crowns,  and  two  loads  of  mantles  ;  and 


MONTEZUMA.  133 

the  gold  amounted,  in  value,  to  upward  of  a  thousand  crowns ;  and  he  gave 
it  with  an  affability  and  indifference  which  made  him  appear  a  truly- 
magnificent  prince." 

He  then  proceeds,  after  some  other  details,  to  give  an  account  of  the 
personal  appearance  of  this  sovereign,  and  of  the  style  and  splendor  of 
his  court. 

"  The  great  Montezuma  was,  at  this  time,  aged  about  40  years,  of  good 
stature,  well  proportioned,  and  thin.  His  complexion  was  much  fairer 
than  that  of  the  Indians ;  he  wore  his  hair  short,  just  covering  his  ears, 
with  very  little  beard,  well  arranged,  thin  and  black.  His  face  was 
rather  long,  with  a  pleasant  mien  and  good  eyes ;  gravity  and  good-humor 
were  blended  together  when  he  spoke.  He  was  very  delicate  and  cleanly 
in  his  person,  bathing  himself  every  evening.  He  had  a  number  of  mis- 
tresses of  the  first  families,  and  two  princesses,  his  lawful  wives ;  when 
he  visited  them,  it  was  with  such  secrecy  that  none  could  know  it  except 
his  own  servants.  He  was  clear  of  all  suspicions  of  unnatural  vices. 
The  clothes  which  he  wore  one  day  he  did  not  put  on  for  four  days  after. 
He  had  set  two  hundred  of  his  nobility  as  a  guard  in  apartments  adjoining 
his  own.  Of  these  only  certain  persons  could  speak  to  him,  and  when  they 
went  to  wait  upon  him,  they  took  off  their  rich  mantles  and  put  on  others 
of  less  ornament,  but  clean.  They  entered  his  apartment  barefooted, 
their  eyes  fixed  on  the  ground,  and  making  three  inclinations  of  the  body 
as  they  approached  him.  In  addressing  the  king  they  said,  "Lord — my 
lord — great  lord  !"  When  they  had  finished,  he  dismissed  them  with  a 
few  words,  and  they  retired  with  their  faces  toward  him  and  their  eyes 
fixed  on  the  ground.  I  also  observed,  that  when  great  men  came  from  a 
distance  about  business,  they  entered  his  palace  barefooted,  and  in  plain 
habit;  and  also,  that  they  did  not  enter  the  gate  directly,  but  took  a  circuit 
in  going  toward  it. 

"  His  cooks  had  upward  of  thirty  different  ways  of  dressing  meats,  and 
they  had  earthen  vessels  so  contrived  as  to  keep  them  constantly  hot. 
For  the  table  of  Montezuma  himself,  above  three  hundred  dishes  were 
dressed,  and  for  his  guards  above  a  thousand.  Before  dinner,  Montezuma 
would  sometimes  go  out  and  inspect  the  preparations,  and  his  officers  would 
point  out  to  him  which  were  the  best,  and  explain  of  what  birds  and  flesh 
they  were  composed ;  and  of  those  he  would  eat.  But  this  was  more  for 
amusement  than  anything  else. 

"  It  is  said,  that  at  times  the  flesh  of  young  children  was  dressed  for  him; 
but  the  ordinary  meats  were  domestic  fowls,  pheasants,  geese,  partridges, 
quails,  venison,  Indian  hogs,  pigeons,  hares  and  rabbits,  with  many  other 
animals  and  birds  peculiar  to  the  country.  This  is  certain — that  after 
Cortez  had  spoken  to  him  relative  to  the  dressing  of  human  flesh,  it  was 
not  practiced  in  his  palace.  At  his  meals,  in  the  cold  weather,  a  number 
of  torches  of  the  bark  of  a  wood  which  makes  no  smoke,  and  has  an  aro- 
matic smell,  were  lighted ;  and,  that  they  should  not  throw  too  much  heat, 
screens,  ornamented  with  gold  and  painted  with  figures  of  idols,  were 
placed  before  them. 


134  MEXICO. 

"  Montezuma  was  seated  on  a  low  throne  or  chair,  at  a  table  propor- 
tioned to  the  height  of  his  seat.  The  table  was  covered  with  white  cloths 
and  napkins,  and  four  beautiful  women  presented  him  with  water  for  his 
hands,  in  vessels  which  they  call  xicales,  with  other  vessels  under  them, 
like  plates,  to  catch  the  water.     They  also  presented  him  with  towels. 

"  Then  two  other  women  brought  small  cakes  of  bread,  and,  when  the 
King  began  to  eat,  a  large  screen  of  gilded  wood  was  placed  before  him, 
so  that  during  that  period  people  should  not  behold  him.  The  women 
having  retired  to  a  little  distance,  four  ancient  lords  stood  by  the  throne, 
to  whom  Montezuma,  from  time  to  time,  spoke  or  addressed  questions,  and 
as  a  mark  of  particular  favor,  gave  to  each  of  them  a  plate  of  that  which 
he  was  eating.  I  was  told  that  these  old  lords,  who  were  his  near  rela- 
tions, were  also  counsellors  and  judges.  The  plates  which  Montezuma 
presented  to  them  they  received  with  high  respect,  eating  what  was  on 
them  without  taking  their  eyes  off  the  ground.  He  was  served  in  earth- 
enware of  Cholula,  red  and  black.  While  the  King  was  at  the  table, 
no  one  of  his  guards  in  the  vicinity  of  his  apartment  dared,  for  their 
lives,  make  any  noise.  Fruit  of  all  kinds  produced  in  the  country,  was 
laid  before  him ;  he  ate  very  little  ;  but,  from  time  to  time,  a  liquor  pre- 
pared from  coco,  and  of  a  stimulative  quality,  as  we  were  told,  was  pre- 
sented to  him  in  golden  cups.  We  could  not,  at  that  time,  see  whether 
he  drank  it  or  not;  but  I  observed  a  number  of  jars,  above  fifty,  brought 
in,  ^filled  with  foaming  chocolate,  of  which  he  took  some  that  the  women 
presented  him. 

"  At  different  intervals  during  the  time  of  dinner,  there  entered  certain 
Indians,  humpbacked,  very  deformed,  and  ugly,  who  played  tricks  of 
buffoonery  ;  and  others  who,  they  said,  were  jesters.  There  was  also  a 
company  of  singers  and  dancers,  who  afforded  Montezuma  much  enter- 
tainment. To  these  he  ordered  the  vases  of  chocolate  to  be  distributed. 
The  four  female  attendants  then  took  away  'the  cloths,  and  again,  with 
much  respect,  presented  him  with  water  to  wash  his  hands,  during  which 
time  Montezuma  conferred  with  the  four  old  noblemen  formerly  men- 
tioned, after  which  they  took  their  leave  with  many  ceremonies. 

"  One  thing  I  forgot  (and  no  wonder,)  to  mention  in  its  place,  and  that 
is,  that  during  the  time  that  Montezuma  was  at  dinner,  two  very  beautiful 
women  were  busily  employed  making  small  cakes*  with  eggs  and  other 
things  mixed  therein.  These  were  delicately  white,  and,  when  made, 
they  presented  them  to  him  on  plates  covered  with  napkins.  Also  another 
kind  of  bread  was  brought  to  him  in  long  leaves,  and  plates  of  cakes  re- 
sembling wafers. 

"  After  he  had  dined,  they  presented  to  him  three  little  canes,  highly 
ornamented,  containing  liquid-amber,  mixed  with  an  herb  they  call  to- 
bacco; and  when  he  had  sufficiently  viewed  and  heard  the  singers,  dancers, 
and  buffoons,  he  took  a  little  of  the  smoke  of  one  of  these  canes,  and  then 
laid  himself  down  to  sleep. 

*  No  doubt,  tortil/ias,  or  mnire  cakes— still  the  staff  of  life  with  all  the  Indians,  and,  indeed,  a  favorite  and 
daily  food  of  all  chutes  of  Mexicans. 


MONTEZUMA, 


135 


"  The  meal  of  the  monarch  ended,  all  his  guards  and  domestics  sat 
down  to  dinner;  and,  as  near  as  I  could  judge,  above  a  thousand  plates  of 
those  eatables  that  I  have  mentioned,  were  laid  before  them,  with  vessels 
of  foaming  chocolate  and  fruit  in  immense  quantity.  For  his  women 
and  various  inferior  servants,  his  establishment  was  of  a  prodigious  ex- 
pense :  and  we  were  astonished,  amid  such  a  profusion,  at  the  vast  regu- 
larity that  prevailed. 


*s>  Kj 


MEXICAN     ARMS, 


136  MEXICO. 

"  His  major  domo  was,  at  this  time,  a  prince  named  Tapica;  who  kept  the 
accounts  of  Montezuma's  rents  in  books  which  occupied  an  entire  house. 

"  Montezuma  had  two  buildings  filled  with  every  kind  of  arms,  richly 
ornamented  with  gold  and  jewels ;  such  as  shields,  large  and  small  clubs 
like  two-handed  swords,*  and  lances  much  larger  than  ours,  with  blades 
six  feet  in  length,  so  strong  that  if  they  fix  in  a  shield  they  do  not  break ; 
and  sharp  enough  to  use  as  razors. 

"  There  was  also  an  immense  quantity  of  bows  and  arrows,  and  darts, 
together  with  slings,  and  shields  which  roll  up  into  a  small  compass,  and 
in  action  are  let  fall,  and  thereby  cover  the  whole  body.  He  had  also 
much  defensive  armor  of  quilted  cotton,  ornamented  with  feathers  in  dif- 
ferent devices,  and  casques  for  the  head,  made  of  wood  and  bone,  with 
plumes  of  feathers,  and  many  other  articles  too  tedious  to  mention." 

In  this  Palace,  where  the  Emperor  dwelt  in  almost  oriental  splendor, 
he  had  his  gardens,  and  ponds,  and  aviaries.  At  Chapultepec,  a  hill  on 
the  west  of  the  city,  he  owned  another  palace,  amid  groves,  fountains  and 
trees,  and  many  of  the  cypresses  with  which  the  grounds  were  adorned 
still  remain  in  all  their  vigor.  Besides  these,  he  had  his  menageries, 
where  every  species  of  wild  beast,  venomous  serpent,  curious  fish,  and 
bird  of  beautiful  plumage,  were  gathered  together  and  watched  by  innu- 
merable attendants. 

Soon  after  the  arrival  of  Cortez  in  Mexico,  he  expressed  to  the  Emperor 
a  desire  to  see  his  city ;  and,  with  all  becoming  pomp  and  ceremony, 
(having  first  of  all  consulted  his  priests  as  to  the  propriety,)  he  took  his 
future  conqueror  to  the  top  of  the  great  Temple,  whence  he  beheld  the 
splendor  of  the  Indian  capital. 

Streets,  canals,  shrines ;  large  and  beautiful  houses,  amid  groves  and 
gardens  ;  markets,  where  every  luxury  of  fruit  and  vegetable  were  to  be 
found;  aqueducts,  which  brought  sweet  water  from  the  hills;  streets 
filled  with  artists  who  wove  the  most  beautifully  pictured  garments  from 
plumes  of  birds,  or  fashioned  the  precious  metals  into  gorgeous  orna- 
ments ; — palaces,  where  the  nobles  dwelt  in  all  the  magnificence  of  bar- 
baric wealth  ; — all  these  lay  in  splendor  beneath  him,  while  the  land  and 
water  swarmed  with  an  active  but  superstitious  multitude,  and  the  lakes 
beyond  bore  them  across  its  silvery  surface,  dotted  with  floating  gardens, 

*  Called  miquahuitl.  They  were  composed  of  a  stout  club  of  wood,  into  the  sides  of  which  square  and 
sharpened  pieces  of  flint  or  obsidian  were  fastened  at  equal  distances,  as  will  be  seen  in  figure  A  in  the  cut. 
They  arc  described  by  Acosta  as  having  been  most  formidable  weapons ;  and  he  declares  that  he  has  seen  the 
skull  of  a  horse  cleft  in  twuin  by  one  of  them  at  a  single  blow.  The  foregoing  designs  are  taken  either  from 
ancient  paintings,  or  from  the  arms  themselves,  preserved  in  Die  Museum  at  Mexico.  Opposite  to  page  413,  of 
Mr.  Stephens's  first  volume  of  Incidents  of  Travel  in  Yucatan,  there  is  a  plate  representing  the  sculptured  figure* 
on  the  jamb  of  a  doorway  from  the  ruins  of  Kabah.  In  the  hands  of  a  kneeling  figure  in  the  group,  there  is  a 
weapon,  which  the  reader,  if  be  takes  the  trouble  to  compare  the  preceding  drawing  and  the  plate,  will  not  fail 
to  recognize  at  a  glance,  to  be  a  miqvahuitl.  This  incontestibly  proves  an  identity  of  arms  between  the  ancient 
Mexicans  and  Yucnteros ;  and  it  proves  something  more,  because  it  it  knoicn  that  these  batlic-azet  were  used 
by  the  Mexicans  at  the  period  of  the  conquest. 

The  sculptured  jamb  n  removed  from  Yucatan  by  Mr.  Stephens,  and  arrived  safely  in  the  United  St:tte«. 
It  escaped  the  loss  by  fire  of  the  rest  of  his  valuable  collection,  but  was  thrown  down  and  broken  by  a  raielos 
and  inquisitive  street  passenger,  while  unloodjng  from  the  car  th.it  conveyed  it  from  the  vessel. 


THE    CONQUEST.  137 

to  the  foot  of  mountains,  where  the  sunshine  for  ever  warmed  the  fruits  and 
flowers  into  vigorous  life. 

Such  was  the  city  of  Mexico,  and  the  style  of  the  Emperor;  but  it  was 
not  alone  in  externals,  that  the  nation  was  great  and  powerful.  It  was 
regulated  by  good  laws,  well  and  speedily  administered  ;  the  relations  of 
life  were  recognized  and  guarded  ;  it  fostered  a  good  system  of  education  ; 
the  arts  were  cultivated  and  encouraged ;  architecture  had  advanced 
to  a  high  degree  of  excellence  ;  the  knowledge  of  astronomy,  and  of  the 
calculation  of  time,  was  exact  and  scientific  ;  they  were  powerful  in  war; 
they  had  built  a  vast  Empire,  springing  from  a  sparse  tribe  which  found 
its  first  home  among  the  reeds  and  marshes  of  the  lake  where  they  had 
hidden  for  safety  from  their  foes  ;  and,  although  their  religious  rites  were 
brutal  and  bloody,  they  still  had  some  glimmering  ideas  of  an  invisible 
and  omnipotent  God.  It  was  a  nation  of  splendid  contradictions,  where 
social  elegance  and  comfort  were  almost  unequalled,  and  yet  where  reli- 
gious brutality  was  quite  as  unparalleled. 

The  sight  of  this  splendid  city  was  too  tempting  for  Cortez — "  The  king- 
doms of  the  world  were  at  his  feet."  He  had  resolved,  before,  to  attempt 
the  entire  subjugation  of  this  people  ;  and  the  view  of  this  wealth  only 
stimulated  his  resolution,  while  the  bloody  rites*  of  the  Temple  aided  in 
exciting  his  ambition  to  give  another  land  of  idolatry  to  the  control  of  the 
Holy  Cross. 

He  soon  afterward  seized  the  King,  and,  as  some  assert,  caused  him  to 
be  put  to  death,  or  to  be  so  exposed  that  his  death  was  inevitable ;  yet, 
when  the  wonted  spirit  of  the  Mexicans  was  aroused,  his  troops  were 
driven  from  the  Capital. 

He  returned  with  Indian  allies.  He  invested  the  city  with  a  sort  of 
mimic  navy,  which  he  launched  on  the  lake  from  Tezcoco  ;  and  at  length, 
after  a  severe  struggle,  the  Capital  fell  into  his  hands. 

"  What  I  am  going  to  say  is  truth,  and  I  swear,  and  say  Amen  to  it !" 
(exclaims  Bernal  Diaz  del  Castillo,  in  his  quaint  style  :)  "  I  have  read  of 
the  destruction  of  Jerusalem,  but  I  cannot  conceive  that  the  mortality 
there  exceeded  that  of  Mexico ;  for  all  the  people  from  the  distant  prov- 
inces, which  belonged  to  this  Empire,  had  concentrated  themselves  here, 
where  they  mostly  died.  The  streets,  and  squares,  and  houses,  and  the 
courts  of  the  Tlatelolcof  were  covered  with  dead  bodies ;  we  could  not 


*  "  The  walls  and  pavements  of  this  Temple,"  says  Bemal  Diaz,  "  were  so  besmeared  with  blood,  that  they 
stunk  worse  than  all  the  slaughter-houses  of  Castile."  Further  on  he  says :  "  At  the  door  stood  frightful  idols ; 
by  it  was  a  place  for  sacrifice,  and  within,  boilers,  and  pots  full  of  water,  to  dress  the  flesh  of  victims,  which 
was  eaten  by  the  priests.  The  idojs  were  like  serpents  and  devils  :  and  before  them  were  tahles  and  knives  for 
sacrifice,  the  place  being  covered  with  blood  which  was  spilt  on  those  occasions.  The  furniture  was  like  that 
of  a  butcher's  stall ;  and  I  never  gave  this  accursed  building  any  name  except  that  of  Hell  !  In  another  temple 
were  the  tombs  of  the  Mexican  nobility.  It  was  begrimed  with  soot  and  blood.  Next  to  this,  was  another,  full 
of  skeletons,  and  piles  of  bones,  each  kept  apart,  but  regularly  arranged." 

t  Diaz,  contrary  to  other  writers,  declares  this  to  have  been  the  site  of  the  great  Temple.  It  is  now  the  site 
of  the  Convent  of  St.  Iago  Tlaltelolco. 


133  MEXICO. 

step  without  treading  on  them  ;  the  lake  and  canals  were  filled  with  them, 
and  the  stench  was  intolerable. 

"  When  all  those  who  had  been  able,  quitted  the  city,  we  went  to  ex- 
amine it,  which  was  as  I  have  described  ;  and  some  poor  creatures  were 
crawling  about  in  different  stages  of  the  most  offensive  disorders,  the  con- 
sequences of  famine  and  improper  food.  There  was  no  water  ;  the  ground 
had  been  torn  up  and  the  roots  gnawed.  The  very  trees  were  stripped 
of  their  bark;  yet,  notwithstanding  they  usually  devoured  their  prisoners, 
no  instance  occurred  when,  amidst  all  the  famine  and  starvation  of  this 
siege,  they  preyed  upon  each  other.  The  remnant  of  the  population  went, 
at  the  request  of  the  conquered  Guatimozin,  to  the  neighboring  villages, 
until  the  town  could  be  purified  and  the  dead  removed."  Cortez  affirms, 
that  more  than  fifty  thousand  perished. 

Nor  was  this  all :  there  seems  to  have  been  a  disposition,  on  the  part 
of  the  conqueror,  to  obliterate  the  nation  from  the  face  of  the  earth.  As 
his  army  advanced  gradually  into  the  town  in  the  various  attacks  made 
upon  it,  the  buildings  were  levelled  to  the  ground  ;  but  when  the  final  con- 
flict had  ended,  the  bigotry  of  the  priesthood  was  added  to  the  ferocity  of 
the  soldier,  and  hand  in  hand  they  went  to  the  work  of  destruction.  After 
they  had  secured  every  article  of  intrinsic  value, — palace  and  temple  were 
given  up  to  ruin.  The  materials  of  which  the  houses  of  the  nobles  and 
wealthy  citizens  had  been  built,  were  used  to  fill  the  canals.  Every  idol 
was  broken  that  could  be  destroyed,  while  those  that  were  too  large  to  be 
mutilated  by  the  hand  or  by  gunpowder,  were  buried  in  the  lake  or  the 
squares ;  and  finally,  every  historical  record,  paper,  and  painting,  that 
could  be  found,  was  torn  and  burned,  with  a  fanaticism  as  ignorant  and 
stupid  as  it  was  zealous  and  bigoted. 

From  that  time,  of  course,  but  little  has  descended  to  us,  except  a  few 
fragments  of  manuscripts,  which  are  now  preserved  in  the  royal  collec- 
tions of  Berlin,  Dresden,  Vienna  and  the  Vatican  ;  the  idols  and  images 
with  which  the  Museum  is  filled  ;  and  the  magnificent  ruins  of  Palenque, 
Uxmal,  and  Guatamala. 

It  is  impossible  for  us  not  to  sympathize  with  the  conquered  in  the 
fall  and  subjection  of  their  Empire,  notwithstanding  the  cruelty  of  their 
worship.  Cortez  was,  at  best,  but  a  great  pirate,  around  whom  a  troop  of 
needy  adventurers  and  brave  soldiers  had  gathered,  with  all  the  appe- 
tite for  conquest  and  the  temper  of  freebooters.  It  is  undeniable,  that 
he  was  a  man  of  extraordinary  capacity.  Brave,  sagacious,  cool,  endu- 
ring, intrepid  ;  a  statesman,  orator,  historian,  soldier,  poet ;  he  united  in 
himself  every  manly  attribute  and  accomplishment,  and  he  added  to  them 
an  indomitable  resolution,  which  quailed  as  little  before  the  magnitude 
or  danger  of  an  enterprise,  as  before  the  multitudes  who  were  sent  to 
encounter  him.  He  was  worthy  of  a  better  cause,  and  the  founding  of  a 
greater  empire. 

As  for  Montezuma,  he  seemed  to  have  had  a  fatal  presentiment  of  his 
country's  destiny,  from  the  period  of  his  first  interview  with  Cortez  ;  and 


THE     CONQUEST.  139 

his  luxurious  habits  of  life,  operating,  most  probably,  upon  a  temperament 
naturally  unresisting  and  indolent,  induced  him  to  allow  a  foothold  to  the 
Spaniards,  who  might  have  been  crushed  by  his  armies  at  a  single  blow. 
Instead  of  striking  that  blow,  he  indulged  in  recollecting  the  legends  of 
his  forefathers ;  and  scarcely  had  his  future  conqueror  entered  the  Capital, 
when  he  hinted  the  fate  to  which  his  country  was  at  last  subjected.  "  It 
is  long  since  we  knew  from  our  ancestors,"  said  he,  "  that  neither  I  nor 
all  who  inhabit  their  lands  were  originally  of  them,  but  that  we  are  stran- 
gers, and  came  hither  from  distant  places.  It  was  said  that  a  great  lord 
brought  our  race  to  these  parts  and  returned  to  the  land  of  his  birth,  and 
yet,  came  back  once  more  to  us.  But,  in  the  mean  time,  those  whom  he 
first  brought  had  intermarried  with  the  women  of  the  country ;  and  when 
he  desired  them  to  return  again  to  the  land  of  their  fathers  they  refused 
to  go.  He  went  alone ;  and  ever  since  have  we  believed,  that  from  among 
those  who  were  the  descendants  of  that  mighty  lord,  one  shall  come  to 
subdue  this  land,  and  make  us  his  vassals !  According  to  what  you  de- 
clare of  the  place  whence  you  come,  (which  is  toward  the  rising  sun,)  and 
of  the  great  lord  who  is  your  King,  we  must  surely  believe  that  he  is  our 
natural  lord." 

Cortez  was  by  no  means  disposed  to  deny  it ! 


LETTER    XXI. 

MURDER  OF  THE   SWISS   CONSUL  AT   ST.  COSME.       TACUBA.       FESTIVAL  OF  THE 
VIRGIN  OF  REMEDIOS. 


Let  us  return  in  this  letter  from  the  Past  to  the  Present. 
The  28th  of  August  was  the  festival  of  the  Virgin  of  Remedios,  and, 
accompanied  by  some  friends,  I  went  to  an  Indian  village  of  that  name 
about  nine  miles  from  the  city,  upon  the  first  rise  of  the  western  mountains 
from  the  plain  of  the  valley.  In  passing  through  the  suburb  of  St.  Cosme, 
(where  many  of  the  pleasantest  residences  in  Mexico  are  situated,  sur- 
rounded by  tasteful  gardens  and  fountains  supplied  by  the  adjacent  aque- 
duct,) the  house  of  M.  Mairet,  the  Swiss  Consul,  was  pointed  out  to  us. 

This  gentleman  was  a  person  of  fortune,  and  lived  at  St.  Cosme  in  a 
tasteful  little  bachelor  establishment,  where,  according  to  the  custom  of 
this  bankless  country,  he  usually  kept  his  money.  Most  of  the  dwellings 
in  this  quarter  are  strongly  built,  and  the  windows  are  generally  pro- 
tected by  iron  bars,  so  that  it  would  be  difficult  for  robbers  to  effect  an 
entrance,  especially  as  the  occupants  usually  keep  a  couple  of  strong  and 
fierce  dogs  in  the  patio  and  on  the  azotea. 

One  day,  however,  a  coach  drove  to  the  front  gate  about  noon,  and  a 
man,  dressed  in  the  habit  of  a  priest  with  broad  shovel-hat,  descended 
from  it  accompanied  by  two  others,  and  stated  to  the  servant  who  admit- 
ted them,  that  they  were  exceedingly  anxious  to  procure  from  Mr.  Mairet 
a  skin  of  parchment;  in  which  article,  I  believe,  he  chiefly  dealt.  As 
soon  as  they  were  admitted  within  the  gate,  they  locked  it,  seized  the  ser- 
vant, tied  him  to  a  pillar,  and  gagged  him.  They  then  proceeded  to  the 
house,  where  they  found  Mairet  alone.  They  attacked  him  with  knives, 
cut  and  wounded  him  severely,  and  forced  him  to  disclose  the  place  where 
he  concealed  his  money.  Having  got  possession  of  it,  and  rifled  the  house 
of  everything  valuable,  they  fled.  Poor  Mairet  died  of  his  wounds;  and 
the  robbers  (but  one  of  whom  was  discovered,  tried  and  executed,)  escaped 
with  ten  thousand  dollars. 

This  is  one  instance  only  of  the  crimes  that  are  even  yet  often  com- 
mitted throughout  the  Republic. 

In  the  year  1824,  during  the  high  times  of  old-fashioned  bigotry  in 
Mexico,  a  murder  of  the  most  appalling  character  occurred. 


MURDER    OF    AN    AMERICAN.  141 

An  American  named  Hayden  resided  there,  and  followed  the  trade  of  a 
shoemaker.  He  was  a  Protestant,  but  carefully  observed  all  proper  and 
decorous  respect  for  the  Catholic  ceremonies  and  institutions  of  the  coun- 
try. One  day,  the  Host  was  passing  his  house  to  the  dwelling  of  some 
dying  person,  with  all  the  usual  pomp  and  parade  of  ringing  bells  and 
chanting  boys ;  and,  as  the  shops  are  generally  open  to  the  street,  Hay- 
den quietly  arose  from  his  work-bench,  and  coming  forward,  knelt  on  the 
sill  of  his  door.  He  had  scarcely  prostrated  himself,  when  a  person  (who 
is  believed  to  have  been  an  officer,)  accosted  him,  demanding  in  a  rude 
tone  "  why  he  did  not  advance  into  the  street  and  kneel  ?"  Hayden  re- 
plied, that  he  thought  it  proper  for  him  to  kneel  where  he  was.  Scarcely 
had  he  uttered  this  when  the  soldier  laid  his  hand  on  the  hilt  of  his  sword 
as  if  to  draw.  Hayden  perceived  this,  and  stepped  toward  his  counter  to 
seize  a  boot-tree  for  defence ;  but  before  he  could  reach  it,  the  soldier  had 
plunged  his  sword  through  the  poor  man's  back,  directly  into  the  heart, 
and  he  fell  dead  on  the  spot. 

An  American,  who  was  in  the  shop  at  the  time,  rushed  to  arrest  the 
murderer  and  give  the  alarm,  but  the  villain  had  fled — the  crowd  closed 
round  him,  no  one  pursued,  and  no  one  took  means  to  recognize  him ! 

Nor  was  this  all.  Difficulty  was  first  experienced  in  obtaining  per- 
mission from  the  authorities  to  bury  our  unfortunate  countryman ;  next, 
no  coachman  would  take  the  body  in  his  carriage,  and  the  Consul  was 
obliged  to  receive  it  in  his  private  coach ;  next,  the  funeral  procession 
was  pursued  by  a  crowd,  which,  gathering  in  formidable  numbers  as  the 
train  moved  along  the  streets  of  Plateros  and  San  Francisco,  pelted  it  with 
stones  and  other  missiles,  until  Mr.  Black  (who  is  now  our  Consul  in 
Mexico,)  was  obliged  to  halt  the  procession  at  the  Accordada,  and  ask  a 
guard  of  soldiers  from  the  commanding  officer  as  an  escort  to  the  grave 
at  Chapultepec.  The  guard  was  given,  ordered  to  load  with  ball-car- 
tridges, and  as  they  departed  the  officer  exclaimed — "Blessed  is  the  land 
where  there  are  no  friars!" 

Notwithstanding  the  presence  of  the  guard,  the  Consul  was  struck  on 
the  breast  by  a  stone  while  reading  the  solemn  service  at  the  grave. 

Crowds  had  followed  the  funeral  from  the  city,  even  to  the  distant 
graveyard ;  and  when  they  returned,  it  was  rumored  among  the  leperos 
that  the  "  American  had  been  buried  with  a  quantity  of  clothing,  bottles 
of  wine,  and  money  to  pay  the  expences  of  his  journey."  This  super- 
stitious tale  had  the  due  effect ;  and  although  a  man  had  been  hired  to 
watch  the  grave,  yet  soon  after  the  interment  it  was  broken  open,  and  the 
body  was  found  stripped  of  its  clothes  and  flung  naked  on  the  ground. 
A  reward  of  $2000  was  offered  by  the  foreigners,  but  no  traces  of  the 
murderer  or  of  the  human  hyenas  were  ever  discovered. 


142 


MEXICO. 


FESTIVAL  OF  THE  VIRGIN  OF  REMEDIOS. 


I  was  particularly  tempted  to  witness  the  celebration  of  this  festival, 
because  it  was  strictly  an  Indian  one,  in  which  many  of  the  old  super- 
stitions of  the  tribes  were  mingled  with  the  Catholic  rites. 

The  morning  was  beautiful,  and,  although  there  had  been  much  rain 
the  preceding  night,  the  roads  were  dry  and  hard,  and  the  whole  face  of 
nature  looked  sweet  and  clean.  The  road  swarmed  with  people.  The 
majority  of  these  was  of  course  composed  of  females,  scarcely  one  of 
whom  (from  thirteen  upward,)  was  without  a  baby  strapped  to  her  back ; 
and  all  jogged  along  in  that  little  trot  which  is  peculiar  to  the  movement 
of  the  Indians. 


INDIAN      W  0  M  B  N      AND      INFANTS. 


VIRGIN    OF    RE  MEDIOS.  143 

Besides  these,  there  were  files  of  arrieros ;  crowds  of  Indians,  with 
charcoal  in  huge  panniers  on  their  backs ;  others  with  turkies ;  asses 
laden  with  hay — the  hay  covering  the  whole  of  the  little  animal  so  com- 
pletely, that  at  a  short  distance  he  looked  like  a  self-moving  stack.  Then, 
again,  there  was  a  better  class  of  the  natives,  who  had  contrived  to  hire  a 
couple  of  planks  covered  with  a  mat-awning,  swung  upon  wheels,  in  the 
shafts  of  which  they  drove  a  lean  and  half-starved  mule, — while  among 
the  crowd  dashed  our  postillion,  with  his  antediluvian  vehicle.  We 
were,  in  fact,  the  only  foreigners  on  the  road,  except  a  band  of  valiant 
French  hair-dressers ;  who,  taking  advantage  of  the  holiday,  had  sallied 
forth  with  brightly  shining  guns  and  bloodless  bags,  to  do  execution  on  an 
army  of  snipes  that  lay  behind  its  intrenchments  of  marsh  and  grass. 

The  feast,  I  have  said,,  is  purely  Indian  in  its  celebration  at  this  shrine. 
You  will  remember  when  the  Spaniards  were  expelled  from  the  city — on 
that  dreadful  evening,  which  has  since  passed  into  history  by  the  name  of 
the  "  noche  triste,"  or  "  sad  night" — that  they  retreated  through  the  vil- 
lage of  Tacuba,  then  an  Indian  town  of  some  importance,  and  encamped 
on  the  adjacent  heights.  Some  of  the  forces  strayed  still  farther  west- 
ward, and,  quitting  the  shores  of  the  lake,  slept  on  the  first  rise  of  the 
mountains.  There  they  passed  a  panic-struck  night,  and  in  the  morning, 
a  small  doll,  which  had  dropped  from  the  knapsack  of  a  Spanish  soldier, 
(the  bruised  relic,  doubtless,  of  some  pet  baby  he  had  left  at  home,)  was 
found  on  a  maguey,  or  aloe.  Lo  !  it  was  proclaimed,  by  the  finder,  to  be 
a  miraculous  image  of  the  Holy  Virgin — a  token  of  approaching  success 
and  safety — and  the  doll  was  thenceforward  sanctified  !  When  the  Span- 
ish power  became  firmly  fixed  in  Mexico,  a  church  was  built  on  the  spot 
of  the  miraculous  visit,  and  the  shrine  was  endowed  with  the  votive  offer- 
ings of  the  wealthy  and  superstitious. 

Having  appeared  to  the  soldiers  just  at  the  critical  moment,  she  was 
called  the  Virgin  of  "  Remedios,"  or  Remedies — and  from  that  day  to 
this,  she  has  been  regarded  as  the  special  patroness  of  the  ill,  the  un- 
happy, the  sorrowful,  and  unlucky.  If  the  "  rainy  season"  does  not  come 
soon  enough  for  the  hopes  of  the  Indian  farmer,  so  that  he  can  raise  his 
corn  and  frijoles,  she  is  prayed  to.  If  it  lasts  too  long,  she  is  besought. 
If  the  small-pox,  cholera,  or  fevers  rage,  she  is  the  pious  medicine ; 
and  ever  with  success,  because  her  image  is  generally  brought  to  the  in- 
fected district,  from  her  healthy  mountain  country-seat,  when  the  mal- 
ady is  abating.  It  is  said,  however,  that  there  was  a  mistake  about  her  in 
the  case  of  the  last  small-pox  that  prevailed  in  the  Capital.  She  was 
produced  too  soon  !  The  convalescent  came  to  return  thanks ;  those 
who  had  it  in  its  incipient  state,  to  be  relieved ;  and  the  healthful,  to  be 
spared  entirely — the  result  was,  a  frightful  spreading  of  the  infection 
among  the  multitudes  who  prostrated  themselves  before  the  image. 

The  church  has,  of  course,  made  a  fine  revenue  out  of  this  miraculous 
power  of  the  Virgin ;  and  I  have  been  told  that  she  was  frequently  rented 
out  to  the  different  parishes,  at  the  rate  of  five  or  seven  thousand  dollars  per 


144  MEXICO. 

diem,  according  to  the  emergency  of  the  matter,  and  the  faculty  of  the  in- 
nabitants  to  pay.  Disease  being  the  most  selfish  of  all  demands  upon  a 
man's  purse,  he  will  more  readily  rid  himself  of  its  attacks  by  a  fee  and 
a  prayer,  than  by  a  doctor  and  a  nauseous  dose.  A  piece  of  painted 
wood  and  an  opportune  ejaculation,  are  much  more  palatable  than  the 
nostrum  and  long  face  of  even  the  kindest  physician. 

After  passing  through  the  village  of  Tacuba,  (now  only  remarkable 
for  a  few  Indian  remains,  among  which  are  part  of  a  Mexican  pyramid,  in 
the  rear  of  a  fine  church  erected  by  Cortcz,  and  a  noble  cypress,  doubt- 
less of  the  days  of  Montezuma,)  we  ascended  the  hill  among  the  increas- 
ing crowd  of  people  on  foot,  in  carts,  on  mules  and  horses.  The  church 
is  surrounded  by  a  few  miserable  huts  of  adobe,  which  scarcely  merit  the 
name  of  a  village  ;  and  as  we  approached  the  edifice  we  were  forced  to 
leave  our  carriage,  on  account  of  the  dense  crowd  of  leperos  and  Indians. 
I  am  confident,  that  not  less  than  seven  thousand  were  then  upon  the  spot. 

There  was  but  a  narrow  path  to  the  church-gate,  and  on  each  side 
of  it  were  stalls,  tables,  and  mats  of  the  humbler  classes,  covered  with 
fruits,  dried  meats,  and  pulque — the  latter  of  which,  from  the  glibness  of 
the  tongue  and  the  incessant  hum  of  voices  around,  must  have  been  pretty 
freely  circulated.  Gamblers,  too,  were  not  wanting :  there  was  one  fel- 
low with  his  dice,  and  a  dozen  with  monte-, — balls  rolling  ;  cards  shuffling  ; 
venders  crying  their  merchandise  ;  Indians  chattering  in  the  Mexican 
and  Ottony  dialects ;  the  yell  of  a  thousand  squalling  babies — and  the 
bells  tolling !  All  combined  to  make  a  perfect  Babel  of  noise,  yet  I  am 
in  considerable  doubt  whether  my  ears  suffered  more  than  my  olfactories  ! 

I  shouldered  my  way  through  the  crowd,  and  entered  the  large  court- 
yard in  front  of  the  church,  which  has  once  been  a  tasteful  edifice,  sur- 
rounded by  a  corridor,  with  a  roof  supported  by  stout  columns,  inclosing  a 
beautiful  garden.  All  is  now  in  ruins,  and  the  pillars  of  half  the  corridor 
lie  in  heaps  in  the  corners,  filled  with  filth  and  rubbish,  with  gigantic 
aloes  growing  in  their  crannies. 

From  the  steeple  of  the  church  to  the  top  of  the  gateway,  five  ropes 
were  stretched,  and  a  large  flower  made  of  silk,  in  the  shape  of  a  pome- 
granate, was  ascending  and  descending  on  each  of  them,  drawn  up  and  let 
down  by  men  stationed  on  the  azotea  of  the  edifice.  Among  these  flow- 
ers was  an  image  of  Juan  Diego,  the  virtuous  Indian  to  whom  the  Virgin 
presented  the  miraculous  picture,  which  is  now  in  the  Sanctuary  of 
Guadalupe.  Juan,  I  imagine,  was  a  sort  of  invited  guest  from  one  Virgin 
to  the  other,  and  seemed  to  enjoy  himself  vastly  as  he  was  jerked  up  and 
down  on  the  rope  by  the  Indians,  who  varied  their  task  by  an  occasional 
pull  at  the  bells. 

When  we  entered  the  church  mass  had  not  yet  begun,  and  the  edifice 
was  comparatively  empty.  Indeed,  1  did  not  find  it  (except  once  during 
the  day)  very  crowded  with  Indians,  who  seemed  better  satisfied  with 
their  goat-meat  and  pulque  in  the  fresh  air  out  of  doors. 


VIRGIN     OF    RE  MEDIO  S.  145 

The  altar  and  the  rail  around  it  were,  as  usual,  made  of  the  precious 
metals,  and  aloft  was  placed  an  image  of  the  Virgin,  in  a  rich  tabernacle. 
Candles  were  lighted  around  it,  and  some  persons  were  chanting  a  service 
accompanied  by  the  organ,  while  the  Indians,  in  their  rags,  spread  them- 
selves in  kneeling  groups  over  the  floor.  We  passed  into  the  sacristy, 
where  we  met  two  Augustine  monks,  who  were  engaged  in  baptizing  or 
blessing  a  dirty  Indian  baby.  The  mother — in  her  torn  tilma  and  petti- 
coat reaching  to  her  knees — knelt  before  the  padre  holding  the  child,  who 
amused  itself  by  playing  with  his  reverence's  robe  while  the  requisite 
prayer  was  recited.  The  father — in  his  leather  breeches  and  torn 
blanket — meanwhile  leaned  against  the  wall,  twirling  his  tattered  hat, 
with  open  mouth,  and  eyes  in  a  stupid  stare  of  pious  wonderment.  As 
soon  as  the  monk  had  concluded  the  service,  he  stepped  forward,  handed 
him  a  couple  of  cents,  and  both  parents,  with  a  sort  of  adoring  kiss  be- 
stowed on  the  friar's  hand,  departed.  Our  party  comprised  the  only 
whites  in  that  crowd  of  thousands. 

As  soon  as  the  padrecitos  had  got  through  their  ceremonies  over  two  or 
three  more  babies,  and  received  their  copper  fees,  Mr.  Black  mentioned 
to  them  our  desire  to  see  the  figure  of  the  Virgin.  A  sacristan  was  imme- 
diately sent  to  conduct  us  to  the  room  back. of  the  altar,  where,  mounting 
to  the  tabernacle,  and  peeping  cautiously  around  the  shrine,  so  as  not  to 
be  seen  by  the  congregation  in  the  body  of  the  church,  we  caught  a 
glimpse  of  the  figure.  It  is  a  beautiful  waxen-faced  doll,  about  a  foot 
high,  in  a  stiff  satin  dress,  sticking  out  very  much  at  the  bottom  as  if  with 
hoops,  and  the  whole  figure  rests  on  an  aloe  of  solid  silver.  I  observed 
some  pearls  on  the  dress  which  had  a  very  waxen  look,  together  with 
some  diamonds,  that  seemed  quite  as  brilliant  as  if  they  had  been  manu- 
factured in  Paris  by  the  dozen.  When  I  descended,  I  expressed  my  sur- 
prise to  the  half-breed  attending  us,  who  (with  a  very  significant  smile, 
and  that  indescribable  motion  of  the  long  forefinger  slowly  from  right 
to  left,  peculiar  to  the  Mexicans,  and  which  is  as  much  as  to  say,  "  You 
know  nothing  about  it,")  explained  the  mystery.  The  real  image  was 
not  there  !  Diamonds,  doll,  pearls,  petticoats,  emeralds,  and  all  the  other 
finery  had  been  taken  to  the  Cathedral ;  and  he  intimated,  that  in  these 
revolutionary  times  so  much  wealth  was  more  secure  within  hail  of  the 
palace  sentinels,  than  amid  the  lonely  wastes  of  this  mountain  church. 
Besides  which,  he  hinted  that  the  present  figure  was  handsomer,  newer, 
and,  on  the  whole,  good  enough  for  the  Indians ;  who  adored  it  with  quite 
as  much  fervor,  and  quite  as  successfully  as  the  famed  original. 

We  sallied  forth  from  the  chapel  as  the  mass  commenced.  Gradually 
the  church  began  to  fill  with  the  half-naked  Indian  crowd.  Deputations 
of  natives  from  the  different  villages  next  arrived,  bearing  their  offerings 
of  flowers  and  wax  candles  to  the  Virgin,  headed  by  a  band  of  Indian 
musicians  with  their  tom-tom  drum  and  flageolets,  making  a  low  monot- 
onous music.  The  offerings  were  taken  to  the  altar,  under  banners 
made  of  flowers ;  and  after  a  wild  dance  of  the  Indians  to  their  music 
10 


146  MEXICO. 

before  the  image,  they  were  deposited  in  the  sacristy.  A  constant  suc- 
cession of  these  oblations  poured  in  until  near  two  o'clock ;  when  the 
morning  services  being  finished,  the  image  was  taken  from  the  tabernacle 
and  placed  under  a  canopy,  while  a  priest  bore  the  consecrated  wafer,  and 
the  procession  began  its  march.  All  heads  were  at  once  uncovered,  and 
I  went  to  the  upper  story  of  the  church  to  have  a  better  view  of  the  cere- 
mony. At  the  door  of  the  church  stood  a  ragged  Indian,  with  a  large 
firework  on  his  head,  made  in  the  shape  of  a  horse,  surrounded  with 
squibs  and  rockets ;  behind  him  were  five  men  and  a  woman  from  one 
of  the  villages,  neatly  dressed,  their  heads  being  covered  with  red 
silk  or  cotton  handkerchiefs.  The  men  bore  thin  staves  in  their  hands, 
and  small  coops,  made  of  cane,  were  strapped  on  their  backs.  The 
woman  held  a  covered  basket  before  her,  and  one  of  the  men  thrummed 
a  guitar,  giving  forth  the  same  monotonous  tune  of  the  flageolets  and 
drum.  As  soon  as  the  procession  reached  the  portal,  the  whole  crowd 
knelt,  and  a  number  of  small  rockets  and  cannons  were  fired  by  the  In- 
dians. The  huge  flowers — which  I  have  before  described  as  ascending 
and  descending  on  ropes  from  the  church  tower  to  the  gate — were  pulled 
open  by  a  secret  spring,  and  a  shower  of  rose  leaves  fell  from  them  over 
the  passing  priests  and  images.  Juan  Diego's  knees  were  bent  by  some 
equally  secret  machinery,  and  he  continued  on  his  slack-rope  pilgrimage 
through  the  air.  The  flageolet  and  the  drum  were  once  more  put  into 
requisition,  and  the  Indian  with  the  horse-firework,  accompanied  by  six 
others,  began  retreating  in  a  trotting  dance  as  the  holy  image  approached 
— whirling  and  hopping  to  the  barbarous  music,  ever  careful  to  keep 
their  faces  to  the  Virgin.  Suddenly,  an  Indian  stole  behind  the  one 
who  bore  aloft  the  firework,  and  touched  its  match.  At  this  moment 
the  bells  began  to  chime, — and  thus,  amid  their  clang,  the  detonation 
of  the  squibs,  cannons  and  rockets,  and  the  loud  cracking  of  the  ex- 
ploding horse,  the  procession  sallied  from  the  court-yard  to  the  village, 
to  make  a  tour  of  the  plaza  among  the  gamblers,  pulque  shops,  and  fruit- 
sellers  ;  all  of  whom  suspended  their  operations  for  the  moment,  and  knelt 
to  the  sacred  figure. 

After  the  return  of  the  Virgin  to  the  church,  there  was  another  grand 
explosion  of  fireworks  on  a  wheel,  and  more  cannons  were  discharged. 
The  multitude  then  gathered  together  in  groups,  and  made  their  frugal 
meal  of  fruits,  duke,  tortillias,  and  the  never-failing  frijolcs  and  chile. 
By  four  o'clock,  the  majority  of  the  Indians  had  trotted  off  once  more 
to  their  villages,  some  of  which  were  at  a  distance  of  not  less  than  twenty 
or  thirty  miles. 

The  whole  of  the  ceremony  of  this  day,  seemed  to  me  nothing  more 
than  an  Indian  "  corn-dance  ;"  and  it  is,  no  doubt,  among  the  simple- 
minded  Indians,  a  festival  of  thankfulness  to  God  for  the  crops  with  which 
the  bountiful  leasons  have  blessed  them;  in  other  words,  a  substitute  for 
the  sacrifices  which  they  once  made  of  fruits,  flowers,  and  birds,  to  their 
goddess  Centeotl. 


VIRGIN     OF    REMEDIOS.  147 

The  fault  is  in  the  permission  of  these  idolatrous  rites,  before  the  mock 
image  of  another  image  ;  although  it  may  perhaps  be  urged,  that  as  the 
Catholic  is  the  "  blending  of  the  rituals  of  many  nations,"  there  is  no 
harm  in  these  innocent  Indians  being  allowed  to  mix  up  the  relics  of  the 
worship  of  their  fathers,  so  long  as  the  whole  service  is  offered  in  honor 
of  the  ever  living  God. 

During  the  morning,  I  climbed  to  the  top  of  the  church  tower,  through 
a  swarm  of  Indians,  who  were  hived  in  a  set  of  mud-floored  rooms  around 
the  inner  court,  and  the  upper  portion  of  the  sacred  edifice,  which  they 
were  allowed  to  occupy  as  a  sort  of  public  caravanserai  during  the 
period  of  their  pilgrimage.  Such  masses  of  dirt,  filth,  and  personal 
impurity,  it  is  difficult  even  to  imagine ;  and  I  am  happy  to  say,  that 
with  the  exception  of  the  festival  at  Guadalupe,  it  was  the  only  exhibi- 
tion of  the  sort  that  I  saw  of  the  Indians  while  in  Mexico. 

But  I  was  repaid  for  my  disgust  on  reaching  the  top  of  the  church 
tower.  The  view  was  magnificent,  as  is,  indeed,  almost  every  prospect 
from  the  heights  in  this  valley.  The  church  stands  alone,  on  the  bleak 
unsheltered  side  of  a  mountain.  Behind  it  the  steeps  rise  rapidly,  with 
deep  glens  descending  from  them,  watered  by  many  streams,  and  span- 
ned, in  wild  and  solitary  grandeur,  by  a  lofty  aqueduct  of  fifty  arches. 
But  to  the  east  lay  the  lovely  valley — its  plain — its  silvery  lakes — and 
turreted  city  nestling  on  its  borders  ;  while,  far  in  the  distance,  more  than 
forty  miles  away,  rose  the  gray  volcanoes,  capped  with  their  eternal  snows 
and  clouds. 

I  cannot  conclude  an  account  of  this  Indian  scene,  without  offering  my 
testimony  in  favor  of  the  temper  and  temperance  of  the  natives.  In  all 
the  scenes  of  that  day,  spent  among  so  many  thousand  Indians,  I  saw  but 
three  or  four  at  all  intoxicated.  There  was  neither  fighting,  nor  quar- 
relling ;  but  all  seem  to  have  met  together  for  the  purpose  of  an  annual 
frolic,  and  all  carried  it  out  in  that  pleasant  spirit.  The  most  tipsy 
man  in  the  crowd  was  the  Corregidor — an  old,  lazy,  leather-breeched 
savage,  who  trotted  among  the  multitude  all  day  long,  lecturing  the  In- 
dians on  sobriety  and  good  behavior.  It  was  his  misfortune,  however, 
that  the  duties  of  his  station  carried  him  more  frequently  to  the  pulque 
shops  than  elsewhere  ;  nor  was  he  allowed  to  quit  them  without  a  parting 
glass,  to  which  he  was  pressed  by  the  numerous  friends  with  whom  all 
great  men  are  afflicted.  I  left  him  hiccuping  a  lesson,  and  winking  his 
eyes  very  slowly  at  an  old  Indian;  who,  having  been  his  predecessor  in 
office,  had  fallen  into  disgrace  from  the  potency  of  pulque.  It  was  the 
fatal  misfortune  of  all  the  Corregidors  ! 

I  told  you,  in  the  previous  part  of  these  letters,  that  the  true  Virgin  had 
been  removed  to  the  Cathedral  in  Mexico ;  and  that  she  stands  in  that 
temple  on  her  shrine  of  silver,  enjoying  the  title  to  three  petticoats  em- 
broidered with  pearls,  diamonds  and  emeralds. 

If  she  possesses  the  power  to  cure  the  maladies  of  others,  she  has  not, 
alas  !  the  skill  to  heal  her  own.     She  is  in  a  most  dilapidated  condition  ! 
10* 


148  MEXICO. 

Her  whole  height  is  not  more  than  a  foot,  but  you  cannot  number  the 
scratches,  knocks,  and  bruises,  that  her  poor  little  frame  has  suffered ! 
Her  color  is  gone — both  her  eyes,  I  believe,  are  out — her  nose  is  knocked 
off,  and  there  is  rather  a  large  hole  in  one  corner  of  her  mouth.  The 
padres  declare,  that  all  who  attempt  to  repair  her  charms  sicken  and  die. 
Indeed,  in  the  midst  of  all  her  finery  and  ornaments,  she  reminds  one 
of  some  shrew  of  a  spinster,  who,  after  wasting  her  stock  of  charms  on  a 
thoughtless  world,  makes  up  for  them  on  every  public  occasion,  by  a  dis- 
play of  lace  and  diamonds,  hiding,  if  possible,  each  wrinkle  by  a  gem. 


LETTER   XXII. 

CARNIVAL.       LENT.       HOLY    WEEK. 

One  of  the  gayest  seasons  in  Mexico  is  that  of  the  Carnival ;  and 
although  the  amusements  are  not  so  numerous  or  splendid  as  those  of 
Rome  and  Naples,  yet  there  is  more  stirring  life  and  more  public  exhi- 
bition of  joy  and  pleasure  than  at  other  periods  of  the  year,  among  this 
staid  and  reserved  population. 

The  theatres  are  converted  into  ball-rooms,  and  decorated  with  great 
taste  ;  masters  of  ceremonies  are  regularly  appointed  ;  and  the  boxes  are 
filled  every  night  with  the  beau-monde — brilliant  with  diamonds — while 
the  pit  and  stage  are  covered  with  groups  of  motley  maskers.  Within 
the  few  last  years,  the  fashionables  have  refrained  from  participating  in 
the  ruses  of  masquerade ;  and  the  floor  has  thus  been  abandoned  chiefly 
to  the  French  hair-dressers,  pastry  cooks,  and  milliners  of  the  calle  Pla- 
teros,  who  frisk  about  with  as  much  gayety  as  if  they  were  at  the  grand 
Opera  of  their  beloved  Paris.  I  went  once  or  twice  to  witness  these 
amusements ;  but  confess  that  I  had  quite  enough  of  them,  when,  on  ven- 
turing once  to  stand  up  in  a  quadrille  with  some  unknown  fair  one,  I 
found  an  unmasked  negro  (the  leader  of  one  of  the  orchestras  in  the  city,) 
take  the  place  of  my  vis-a-vis  with  a  white  woman  !  I  plead  guilty  to  a 
prejudice  against  such  exhibitions. 

The  Carnival  over — Lent  is  observed  with  considerable  rigor  until 
Holy  Week.  As  the  ceremonies  of  that  season  are  not  without  their 
peculiarities,  I  will  give  you  some  descriptions  of  them ;  and  I  know  not 
how  I  can  do  so  better  than  by  extracts  from  my  journal  of  the  period. 


JOURNAL 


lQth  March,  Friday.  This  is  the  festival  #of  the  "Virgin  of  Dolores. 
It  is  impossible  to  trace  many  of  the  old  customs  of  the  Church,  in  a 
country  where  the  ritual  is  often  made  up  of  so  many  odd  and  fantastic 
notions,  except  by  supposing  that  the  idea  of  the  original  founders  was,  to 
attract  the  Indians  by  as  many  new  devices  as  they  could  ingraft  upon 
their  regular  services. 


150  MEXICO. 

On  the  festival  of  Mary,  the  mother  of  our  Saviour,  (who  is  worshipped 
here  under  so  many  metamorphoses,)  the  ceremonies  are  not  alone  con- 
ducted in  the  churches.  There  is  scarcely  a  house  in  the  city,  where 
a  little  shrine  is  not  erected,  and  adorned  with  a  profusion  of  glittering 
ornaments  and  blooming  flowers.  Glasses  and  vases  of  colored  waters 
flash  amid  innumerable  lamps  and  wax  candles ;  while  the  most  splendid 
jewels  of  the  mistress  of  the  mansion  adorn  the  sacred  image.  The 
floors  of  the  dwellings  are  strewn  with  roses,  leaving  a  path  for  visitors, 
and  music  and  refreshments  welcome  all  who  are  in  habits  of  intimacy 
with  the  family.  In  this  gorgeous  display,  there  is  considerable  rivalry, 
and  it  is  a  feather  in  a  family's  cap  to  have  its  Virgin  spoken  of  as — par 
excellence — the  saint  of  the  season. 


19th — Saturday.  This  is  another  festival — that  of  "El  Castisimo 
Patriarca  Sr.  S.  Jost,  patron  principal  de  la  Republica  y  N.  Seiiora  de 
la  Piidad."  It  is  a  festival,  in  other  words,  of  San  Jose  and  of  the 
Virgin  Mary,  under  another  name.  There  were  solemn  services  in  the 
churches. 

20th — Palm  Sunday.  At  eleven  I  went  to  the  Cathedral,  to  hear 
high  mass.  The  chief  altar  was  shrouded  with  purple  drapery,  and 
all  the  ornaments  were  covered.  The  Archbishop  sat  under  a  velvet 
canopy  fringed  with  gold,  and  the  edifice  was  filled  with  a  motley,  palm- 
bearing  congregation  of  ladies,  leperos,  cavaliers,  and  Indians.  The  ser- 
vice was  odd.  Two  clergymen  mounted  pulpits  on  each  side  of  the 
altar,  while  another  took  his  stand  in  the  middle  of  the  steps  leading  to  it. 
All  had  books  before  them,  and  palm  branches  in  their  hands,  as  had, 
also,  the  Archbishop  and  his  suite  of  servitors.  The  priests  in  the  pulpit, 
and  the  one  on  the  steps,  then  proceeded  to  chant  a  sort  of  dramatic  scene 
in  badly  pronounced  Latin ;  and  the  whole  ended  with  wretched  music 
from  the  choir  and  the  organ. 

While  this  service  was  going  on,  there  seemed  to  be  great  indifference 
in  the  demeanor  of  the  well-dressed  men.  The  ladies  sat  on  the  dirty 
floor,  and  with  their  books  open  before  them,  read  away  for  very  life; 
ever  and  anon  crossing  their  foreheads,  mouths  and  bosoms ;  while  the 
whole  of  the  lower  classes  stood  by  like  the  audience  at  some  strange 
drama  in  an  unknown  language,  which  they  thought  as  queer  as  it  was 
unintelligible.  The  Indians,  especially,  who  were  grouped  around  the 
base  of  the  columns,  in  all  their  usual  dirt  and  rags,  appeared  particularly 
surprised  at  the  Latin.  Among  the  multitude,  I  could  not  help  noticing 
an  old,  vicious-looking  lepero,  (a  scarred  veteran  in  crime  and  villainy, 
if  we  may  judge  by  his  countenance)  who  was  extraordinarily  zealous 
in  pounding  his  breast,  as  if  exorcising  an  evil  and  tormenting  spirit. 


HOLY    THURSDAY.  151 

After  the  ceremony  was  over,  no  one  omitted  going  to  the  basins  and 
sprinkling  with  holy  water.  The  Indians,  as  usual,  enjoyed  this  privi- 
lege greedily ;  and  after  devoutly  crossing  themselves,  spirted  a  quantity 
of  the  fluid  in  their  eyes,  and  last  of  all,  put  a  handfull  over  their  hair 
and  faces.  The  infants,  especially,  came  in  for  a  wholesome  ablution. 
\ 

23rd.  I  went  to  the  Cathedral  this  afternoon  to  hear  the  Miserire.  It 
was  a  different  affair  from  that  of  the  Sistine  Chapel,  where  the  agonizing 
music  is  wailed  out  by  the  Pope's  eunuchs.  I  only  remained  until  four  or 
five  candles  had  been  extinguished  on  the  great  candlestick  of  ebony, 
inlaid  with  silver.     The  music  was  execrable. 


242/j.  This  day,  which  is  elsewhere  perhaps  the  saddest  and  holiest 
to  the  spiritual-minded  of  Christ's  Church — preparing  the  soul  for  the 
dreadful  trials  of  to-morrow — is  in  Mexico  one  of  the  gayest  of  the  season. 

From  10  o'clock  in  the  morning,  not  a  horse  or  vehicle  of  any  sort  is 
permitted  to  appear  on  the  street,  and  all  who  venture  abroad  must  do  so 
on  foot.  In  the  olden  time,  this  was  no  doubt  intended  to  mark  the  day 
with  peculiar  solemnity ;  both  by  dispensing  with  one  of  the  most  needful 
luxuries  of  the  upper  classes,  and  detaining  the  gay  and  fashionable  at 
home,  or  inducing  them  to  go  on  humble  and  prayerful  pilgrimage  to  the 
churches.  It  is  now,  however,  but  an  excuse  for  ostentation ;  and  as  at  all 
other  seasons  of  the  year  fashion  has  made  it  imperative  for  no  lady  to 
walk  the  streets,  so  has  fashion  made  it  the  rule  for  the  sex  to  appear  on  this 
day,  apparelled  in  all  the  splendor  their  purses  will  admit.  Silks,  satins, 
velvets,  embroidery,  lace,  jewels,  diamonds,  ball-dresses,  dinner-dresses 
— every  species  of  vesture  to  attract  attention  and  envy,  and  these  again 
are  changed  several  times  in  the  course  of  the  day  !  For  weeks  previous 
the  mantuamakers  are  all  bought  up — not  a  stitch  is  to  be  had  for  love 
or  money — and,  on  Holy  Thursday,  the  cunning  of  their  needles  is  dis- 
played for  once  in  the  year  to  the  rude  and  open  air. 

The  professed  purpose  of  this  display  is  to  visit,  on  foot,  seven  of  the 
churches — which  are  adorned  with  all  their  plate,  jewels,  flowers,  and 
finery,  for  the  occasion,  while  their  floors  are  spread  with  the  richest 
carpets. 

Although  there  is  much  that  is  singular  to  Protestants  who  are  accus- 
tomed to  a  simple  ritual,  in  the  splendor  of  the  Roman  Church  in  Italy 
and  France,  yet  there  is  always  a  picturesque  fitness  of  the  ceremony 
to  the  season,  and  there  is  an  evident  meaning  in  its  dramatic  effect,  illus- 
trating the  incidents  of  the  time.  In  those  countries,  we  can  never  free 
ourselves  from  the  associations  of  the  place  and  the  ceremony  upon  which 
there  are  no  corrupt  grafts  of  heathenism.  The  rites  at  the  altar  are 
gorgeous,  but  chaste  and  beautiful ;  the  music  is  select,  and  suitable  to 
the  moment;  the  temple  in  which  you  kneel,  is  hallowed  by  historical 
memorials ;  the  dead  of  hundreds  of  years — illustrious  through  all  time — 


152  MEXICO. 

rest  in  the  carvpd  tombs  around  you ;  and  the  master-pieces  of  the  great- 
est artists  realize  once  more,  on  their  eloquent  canvas,  the  triumphs  of 
saints  and  martyrs.  But  not  so  here.  The  ritual  is  Indian,  rather  than 
civilized  or  intellectual.  The  show  is  tasteless  and  barbaric.  The  altars 
display  a  jumble  of  jewelry,  sacred  vessels,  and  utensils  of  the  pre- 
cious metals  mixed  up  with  glass  through  which  is  reflected  the  tints  of 
colored  water,  and  the  whole  is  overlaid  with  fruits  and  flowers.  It  is  a 
mixture  of  the  church  and  apothecary  shop.  Instead  of  the  glorious  pic- 
tures of  the  old  masters,  you  have  innumerable  bad  figures,  badly  drawn 
and  worse  colored,  set  in  frames,  the  gilding  and  carving  of  which  form 
the  greatest  attraction  ;  and  in  place  of  the  airs  of  Mozart  and  Haydn, 
you  have  the  music  of  the  last  Opera,  and  the  favorite  morceaux  of  Rob- 
ert le  Diable. 


When  the  carriages  cease  to  roll  to-day,  at  ten  o'clock,  the  bells  are 
also  silenced.  Not  a  clapper  is  allowed  to  strike  against  bell-side  until 
next  Saturday.  Yet,  in  order  not  to  be  without  incessant  noise  in  the 
streets,  they  have  substituted  rattles,  and  you  scarcely  meet  a  youth  who 
has  not  one  of  these  discordant  instruments  in  his  hand.  The  rattles  are 
usually  made  of  wood  and  bone,  surmounted  by  the  wax-figure  of  a  bird, 
baby,  or  even,  sometimes,  a  naked  Venus  ;  but  for  the  higher  classes  they 
are  of  richly  chased  silver  with  tasteful  ornaments,  and  become  the  fash- 
ionable presents  of  the  season.  This,  too,  is  a  relic  of  barbarism,  and  I 
am  told  is  derived  from  the  Indians,  who,  in  the  olden  time,  used  rattles 
to  exorcise  the  Evil  Spirit. 

The  streets  are  alive  with  the  gay  throng,  and  I  visited  the  churches 
of  San  Francisco,  La  Senora  de  Loreto,  the  Cathedral,  Santa  Clara, 
and  the  Profesa.  Sa?i  Francisco  and  La  Prqfcsa  divide  the  fashionable 
world ;  but  the  old  Jesuits  seem  to  have  carried  the  day  with  the  ladies. 

I  took  a  seat  on  the  benches,  placed  against  the  pillars  which  support 
the  roof  of  the  church,  as  I  found  it  to  be  the  custom  for  men  to  sit,  while 
the  aisle  of  the  church  is  occupied  by  the  kneeling  females.  When  I  en- 
tered the  edifice  there  were  but  few  at  their  devotions,  but  the  crowd 
gradually  increased,  and  in  half  an  hour  the  building  was  filled  with  the 
gentle  hum  of  a  thousand  lips  in  prayer. 

Near  me  knelt  a  lady,  whose  dress  must  have  cost  thousands  in  this  ex- 
pensive country.  She  wore  a  purple  velvet  robe  embroidered  with  white 
silk,  white  satin  shoes,  and  silk  stockings  ;  a  mantilla  of  the  richest  white 
blonde  lace  fell  over  her  head  and  shoulders,  and  her  ears,  neck,  and  fin- 
gers were  blazing  with  diamonds.  By  her  side,  and  almost  touching, 
crouched  an  Indian,  in  rags  scarcely  sufficient  to  hide  her  nakedness,  with 
wild  dishevelled  hair,  bare  legs,  and  a  vacant  stare  from  the  gorgeous 
altar  to  the  gorgeous  dame !  And  so,  over  the  whole  church,  the  floor 
was  a  checker-board  of  ladies  and  Uperos — of  misery  and  pride  ! 


RELIGIOUS    EXHIBITIONS.  153 

At  a  little  distance  knelt  a  group  of  fashionable  girls  under  the  guar- 
dianship of  their  mamma,  and  followed  by  a  female  servant — a  substitute 
for  the  old  duena.  After  the  sign  of  the  cross  and  the  bow  to  the  altar, 
the  two  lines  of  beaux  on  each  side  of  the  edifice,  first  attracted  the  at- 
tention of  the  penitents ;  but  their  prayer-books  were  immediately  opened, 
the  forehead,  mouth,  and  breast  were  again  crossed,  and  they  hummed 
a  prayer,  with  an  occasional  aside  to  mother  or  sister,  in  the  midst  of 
their  devotion.  After  this  mingled  occupation  of  prayer,  chatting,  cross- 
ing, and  criticism  had  been  carried  on  for  ten  minutes,  they  closed  their 
books,  sank  from  their  knees  backward  on  the  floor,  and  sitting  thus  on 
the  boards,  threw  aside  their  mantillas  so  as  to  display  a  pet  dimple  or  a 
pet  diamond.  Presently,  remembering  that  there  were  other  churches  to 
visit,  they  rose  slowly,  and  lounged  off  to  another  chapel  to  bring  up  the 
arrears  of  their  aves  and  paters. 

•  I  have  thus  sketched  both  the  street-walking  and  church-praying  of 
to-day,  but  there  was  one  church  which  I  must  mention  specially.  The 
Chapel  of  "  Nueslra  Sehora  de  Loreto"  is  situated  some  distance  from  the 
centre  of  fashion  in  Mexico,  and  is  considered  quite  a  pilgrimage  by  the 
pedestrians  who  walk  but  once  a  year.  I  visited  it,  both  in  the  morning 
and  at  night.  In  the  early  part  of  the  day,  the  crowd  was  small ;  but 
after  sunset  it  was  almost  impossible  to  effect  an  entrance,  notwithstand- 
ing the  doors  and  square  in  front  were  guarded  by  sentinels  with  fixed 
bayonets. 

The  church  was  transformed  into  a  grove  of  orange,  lemon,  and  flower- 
ing shrubbery  ;  and  the  blaze  of  a  multitude  of  wax  torches  was  reflected 
from  the  altar,  around  which  the  twelve  Apostles  were  seated  at  the 
Last  Supper,  amid  a  pile  of  silver  and  gold  plate  and  jewels,  arranged  in 
a  multitude  of  odd  devices,  not  only  on  the  table  but  from  the  floor  to  the 
ceiling.  In  grotesque  contrast  with  all  this  splendor,  there  were  common 
oranges  sprinkled  with  tin  foil,  and  twopenny  glass  decanters  filled  with 
dyed  waters. 

As  I  entered  from  the  front  door  of  this  edifice,  the  first  thing  that 
attracted  my  notice  was  a  side  altar  converted  into  an  arbor,  in  the  centre 
of  which  was  a  well,  with  Christ  and  the  woman  of  Samaria  beside  it. 
The  lady  had  been  fitted  out  by  a  most  fashionable  mantuamaker,  in  a 
costume  of  blue  satin  picked  out  with  pink,  and  while  she  leaned  grace- 
fully on  a  silver  pitcher,  resting  on  the  edge  of  the  well,  our  Saviour 
stood  opposite  in  a  mantle  of  purple  velvet,  embroidered  with  gold,  and 
covered  with  a  Guyaquil  sombrero  ! 

A  short  distance  from  this,  in  the  place  of  another  side  altar,  next  to 
the  chief  one,  was  the  representation  of  the  entombment  of  our  Lord. 
The  body,  swathed  in  linen,  was  laid  in  a  glass  coffin.  "  Mary  the  Mo- 
ther," dressed  in  a  full  suit  of  black  velvet,  with  a  fine  cambric  hand- 
kerchief in  hand,  stood  among  the  shrubbery  at  its  foot.  In  the  foreground, 
two  little  urchins  of  waxen  angelhood,  also  dressed  in  black  velvet, 
(with  black  wings  and  skirts  looped  up  in  front,  so  as  to  display  their 


154  MEXICO. 

neatlv-turncd  ankles  in  richly- worked  stockings,  and  somewhat  more  of 
he  leg  than  befits  other  persons  than  opera  dancers.)  put  themselves  in 
such  an  attitude,  that  you  might  naturally  imagine  they  were  in  the  act 
of  pirouetting  off  to  the  music  of  a  piano  in  the  opposite  corner,  that  gave 
forth  the  most  fashionable  waltzes  and  airs  from  the  operas.  Two  dogs, 
(emblems,  I  suppose  of  "  watchfulness,")  but  who  did  not  seem  to  under- 
stand their  duty  very  well,  amused  themselves,  meanwhile,  by  wandering 
about  among  the  pots  and  smelling  at  the  flowers ! 


Returning  from  Nuestra  Senora  de  Loreto,  I  found  the  streets  crammed 
with  people,  among  whom  were  crowds  of  ladies  dressed  quite  as  splen- 
didly as  in  the  morning  ;  many  of  them  still  wore  their  diamonds,  not- 
withstanding the  imminent  danger  of  robbery  in  such  a  concourse.  The 
stores  were  all  closed,  the  bells  were  silenced,  and  all  was  quiet  but  the 
hum  of  the  crowd  and  the  crack  of  the  thousand  rattles  that  filled  the 
air  like  a  meadow  of  grasshoppers. 

I  went  to  the  Profesa  and  found  a  similar  display.  I  continued  on  to 
San  Francisco,  and  there  beheld  the  most  tasteful  and  least  childish  of  all 
these  exhibitions.  The  walls  of  the  church  were  hung  with  large  pic- 
tures, portraying  parts  of  the  life  of  Christ;  and  over  the  altar  was  a  large 
architectural  design,  the  outlines  of  which  were  marked  with  lights  fast- 
ened on  the  canvas,  so  that  the  whole  picture  seemed  drawn  with  fire. 
The  effect  was  novel  and  beautiful,  and  the  better  for  a  misty  atmosphere 
in  the  church  arising  from  the  multitude  of  candles. 

In  another  of  the  seven  chapels  of  San  Francisco,  a  figure  of  our 
Lord,  as  large  as  life,  was  seated  at  the  foot  of  the  altar,  crowned  with 
thorns  and  bleeding  at  every  pore;  while,  at  a  side  altar,  was  the  Virgin, 
(again  in  becoming  black  velvet,)  with  a  large  straight  sword  thrust 
through  her  heart,  and  her  eyes  upturned  like  a  dying  Cleopatra.  The 
crowd  here  was  immense,  and  it  was  necessary  to  preserve  order  by  sta- 
tioning guards  at  all  the  doors. 

As  I  passed  down  the  street,  I  observed  that  numbers  of  booths  had 
been  erected  at  the  principal  corners  and  in  the  plaza.  They  are  neatly 
made  of  reeds  and  matting,  and  their  counters  are  woven  over  in  front 
with  sweet  clover  interlaced  with  flowers.  Orgeat  and  other  refreshing 
drinks  only  are  sold  in  them,  and  in  the  whole  throng  of  this  day  of  idle- 
ness I  have  not  met  a  drunken  Indian  or  lepero. 

The  Cathedral  was  also  lighted  up  like  the  rest  of  the  churches,  and 
there  was  a  similar  display  of  ornaments.  In  the  middle  of  the  left  aisle 
a  silver  altar  had  been  erected,  since  yesterday,  which  reached  nearly  to 
the  ceiling ;  but  it  was  tastelessly  crowded  with  figures  of  saints  and 
wooden  pillars,  painted  to  imitate  marble.  On  this  altar  was  displayed 
the  Holy  Sacrament  during  the  period  in  which  no  consecration  of  the 
elements  is  permitted  by  the  Church. 


INDULGENCES.  155 

At  the  doors  of  most  of  these  sacred  buildings  ladies  were  seated,  who 
received  alms  on  large  silver  dishes,  and  rewarded  you  with  a  sweet 
smile ;  but  in  the  sacristy  of  the  Cathedral  a  system  of  begging  was  car- 
ried on  that  I  did  not  notice  elsewhere.  It  was  a  regular  fair  for  Indul- 
gences. 

The  body  of  our  Lord,  in  wax,  was  laid  on  a  bier  near  the  door  as 
you  entered  from  the  Cathedral,  and  near  it,  another  figure  was  set  up, 
representing  him  as  he  came  bleeding  and  wasted  from  the  scourgers. 
Close  to  these  two  figures  sat  priests  begging  every  passer  for  a  donation 
in  return  for  indulgences.  "  Ten  years'  indulgence  for  an  alms  to  the 
Holy  Sepulchre,"  said  one  of  them,  with  the  plate  before  him; — and 
"twenty  years' indulgence  for  an  alms  for  the  redemption  of  the  faithful 
in  captivity,"  shouted  a  tall  blue-gowned  Franciscan,  who  stood  near  the 
door  as  you  went  out,  over-bidding  his  less  liberal  competitor  between  the 
figures. 

25th,  Good  Friday.  The  gay  dresses  of  yesterday  are  exchanged  for 
deep  black,  worn  by  both  men  and  women,  and  the  day  is  celebrated  by 
solemu  services.  I  missed  seeing  the  "  descent  from  the  cross,"  in  the 
church  of  Balbanera,  which  is  said  to  be  performed  by  puppets,  and  to 
be  admirably  well  executed. 

26th.  This  is  the  last  day  of  the  ceremonies,  and  at  half-past  nine 
in  the  morning  the  injunction  was  taken  from  the  bells  and  carriages. 
The  streets  were  of  course  immediately  filled  with  all  the  equipages  of 
the  city,  whose  postillions  only  waited  for  the  first  sound  from  the  church- 
towers,  to  dash  out  of  their  court-yards.  The  clang  of  the  bells  was  in- 
cessant, and  at  the  same  moment,  the  air  was  filled  with  the  smoke  and 
explosion  of  myriads  of  crackers  and  fireworks,  called  "  Judases"  and 
"  heretics"  extended  on  ropes  across  the  streets.  The  multitudes  of  dogs 
with  which  the  city  is  infested,  scared  at  the  unusual  racket,  howled 
along  the  streets,  and  the  great  amusement  of  the  leperos  was  to  trip  the 
poor  beasts  with  ropes  as  they  dashed  wildly  over  the  crowded  thorough- 
fares. And  so  ended  in  smoke,  yells,  jingling,  carriage-rolling,  horse- 
tramping,  Judas-bursting,  dog-tripping,  and  folly,  this  farcical  caricature 
of  the  most  awful  event  in  the  history  of  religion.  In  the  vanity  of  per- 
sonal ostentation  its  effect  is  thrown  away  on  the  better  classes,  and  it  is 
entirely  lost  in  the  barbaric  spectacle  and  tinsel  show  which  are  got  up  to 
bewilder  and  surprise  the  ignorant  and  low. 


LETTER    XXIII. 

THE   NEIGHBORHOOD   OF   MEXICO.       CHAPULTEPEC       TACUBAYA,  AND  THE 
MUBDER  OF  MR.  EGERTON.       ST.  ANGEL.       THE  DESIERTO. 

1  have  intimated  to  you  several  times  in  these  letters,  that  it  is  exceed- 
ingly dangerous  to  go  out  of  the  gates  of  the  city  of  Mexico  alone  or 
unarmed.  Indeed,  a  foreigner  scarcely  ever  takes  a  ride  as  far  as  Tacu- 
baya,  without  his  pistols  in  his  holsters,  and  a  trusty  servant  behind  him. 

Skirting  one  of  the  aqueducts  which  terminates  in  the  southern  part  of 
the  city,  you  pass  westward  over  the  plain  to  Chapultepec — the  "Hill 
of  the  Grasshopper."  It  is  an  insulated  porphyritic  rock,  rising  near  the 
former  margin  of  the  lake,  and  is  said  to  have  been  one  of  the  spots 
designated  by  the  Aztecs,  as  a  place  where  they  tarried  on  their  emigra- 
tion from  the  north  in  search  of  a  final  resting-place,  which  was  to  be 
denoted  by  "  an  eagle  sitting  on  a  rock  and  devouring  a  serpent." 

At  the  foot  of  this  solitary  hill  the  plain  spreads  out  on  every  side,  in  all 
the  beauty  of  extreme  cultivation,  while  a  belt  of  noble  cypresses  girdles 
its  immediate  base.  One  of  these  trees  still  bears  the  name  of  "  Mon- 
tezuma's cypress,"*  and  there  is  no  doubt,  from  the  remains  of  the  gar- 
dens, groves,  tanks  and  grottoes  still  visible  about  this  beautiful  spot, 
that  it  was  one  of  the  favorite  resorts  of  the  monarch  and  court  of 
the  Mexican  Empire.  The  tradition  is  that  the  Emperor  retired  from  the 
sultry  city  to  these  pleasant  shades,  which  were  filled,  in  his  day,  with 
every  luxury  that  wealth  could  procure  or  art  devise.  It  would  have 
been  difficult  to  select  a  spot  better  adapted  for  a  royal  residence.  From 
the  top  of  the  modern  Palace  (now  a  military  school)  erected  by  the 
Viceroy  Galvez,  there  is  a  charming  prospect  over  the  valley  and  lakes. 
You  sweep  your  eye  around  a  border  of  gigantic  mountains,  while  at  the 
bottom  of  the  hill  cluster  the  dense  groves  of  cypress — the  genuine  an- 
tiquities of  Mexico — old,  perhaps  already  at  the  period  of  the  conquest. 
Nor  is  it  the  least  agreeable  association  with  these  venerable  relics,  that 
they  are  unconnected  with  any  of  the  bloody  rites  of  religion,  but  are 
eloquent  witnesses  of  the  better  portions  of  Mexican  character. 

*  It  measures  41  feet  in  circumference,  anil  51,  over  some  excrescences. 


;■:.:;: 


I 


REVOLTING    MURDER.  157 

By  a  road  leading  south-westwardly  from  Chapultepec,  at  the  distance 
of  about  a  mile,  you  reach  Tacubaya,  a  town  somewhat  celebrated  in  the 
history  of  Spanish  diplomacy.  It  is  a  quiet  country  village,  containing 
many  delightful  residences  of  the  Mexican  merchants,  and  is  chiefly  re- 
markable for  a  palace  of  the  Archbishop  surrounded  by  beautiful  gardens 
and  groves,  from  the  azotea  of  which  there  is  one  of  the  finest  views  of 
the  volcano  of  Popocatepetl,  and  the  neighboring  mountain  of  Iztacci- 
huatl. 


On  the  28th  of  April,  1842,  the  city  of  Mexico  was  thrown  into  com- 
motion by  the  recital  of  a  dreadful  double  murder,  that  had  been  committed 
on  the  previous  night  in  this  village. 

Mr.  Egerton  was  an  English  artist — a  landscape  painter,  of  great  emi- 
nence— who  had  resided  several  years  in  the  Republic,  and  had  just 
returned  again  to  the  country  from  a  visit  to  England,  bringing  with  him 
a  lovely  young  woman  as  his  wife.  After  residing  a  few  months  in  town, 
he  rented  a  small  establishment  at  Tacubaya,  to  which  he  repaired  with 
his  lady,  and  during  the  period  that  he  remained  there,  but  seldom  visited 
the  Capital.  Yet  he  sometimes  came  in  to  see  his  brother,  and  on  the 
evening  of  the  day  preceding  the  fatal  event,  he  left  the  city  on  his  return 
home. 

As  soon  as  he  reached  Tacubaya,  he  went  out,  accompanied  by  his  wife, 
to  take  their  usual  evening  walk ;  and  this  is  the  last  that  is  known  of  them 
with  any  certainty.  In  the  course  of  the  night,  the  little  dog  that  usually 
followed  them  in  their  rambles  returned  to  the  house  alone. 

On  the  morning  of  the  28th,  some  pgons,  who  were  going  from  the  vil- 
lage to  work  in  the  fields,  discovered  Mr.  Egerton's  body  lying  on  the 
road.  The  spot  was  soon  thronged  by  the  villagers,  and,  after  a  thorough 
search  in  the  neighborhood,  the  body  of  his  wife  was  found  in  an  adjoining 
field  of  aloes. 

Those  who  saw  the  shocking  sight,  describe  it  as  the  most  horrible  they 
ever  beheld.  Egerton  had  evidently  been  slain,  after  a  severe  struggle ; 
a  rattan,  which  he  still  held  firmly  in  the  grasp  of  death,  was  cut  and 
broken ;  his  body  was  pierced  with  eleven  wounds,  and,  though  he  had 
been  dead  near  eight  hours  when  discovered,  his  teeth  were  still  clenched 
as  if  in  anger,  his  eyes  wide  open,  and  his  hair  stiff  on  end  !  The  poor 
lady  was  stripped  naked,  with  the  exception  of  her  stockings  and  shoes ; 
one  wound,  as  if  with  a  small-sword,  penetrated  her  right  breast ;  marks 
of  strangulation  were  around  her  throat ;  her  stomach  was  bitten,  and 
she  had  evidently  been  violated. 

It  is  impossible  to  describe  the  horror  with  which  all  classes  of  Mexico 
received  this  dreadful  tale.  The  British  Minister  and  Consul,  and  Mr. 
Egerton's  brother,  immediately  instituted  the  most  diligent  search  for  the 
perpetrators  of  these  crimes ;  but,  although  several  men  were  arrested,  the 
monsters  remain  to  this  day  undetected. 


158  MEXICO. 

A  small  wooden  cross,  near  a  tangled  thicket,  adjoining  a  ruined  church, 
marks  the  fatal  spot,  and  bears  an  inscription  imploring  your  prayers  for 
the  murdered  pair. 


In  a  nook  at  the  northwest  corner  of  the  city  of  Mexico,  as  you  pass 
out  of  the  gate  of  St.  Cosme,  is  the  English  Burying-ground,  bowered 
among  trees  and  flowers  toward  the  town,  and  open,  with  a  sweet  lowland 
prospect,  toward  the  setting  sun  ;  and  here  were  deposited,  side  by  side, 
the  unfortunate  victims.  Few  spectacles  have  ever  been  more  sorrowful, 
than  the  group  of  "  strangers  in  a  strange  land,"  who  gathered  around 
the  grave  of  their  murdered  friends  on  the  melancholy  evening  of  their 
interment. 


At  the  distance  of  a  few  feet  from  them,  repose  the  remains  of  Wil- 
liam McClure,  a  countryman,  dear  to  American  science.  The  Acad- 
emy of  Natural  Sciences  at  Philadelphia,  of  which  he  was  so  long  the 
President  and  benefactor,  erected  a  small  marble  monument  over  his 
grave,  and  surrounded  it  with  an  iron  rail.  A  short  time  before  I  left 
Mexico,  the  rail  was  torn  down,  the  monument  upset,  and,  on  the  same 
night,  the  newly-buried  body  of  a  Scotchman  was  disinterred,  stripped  of 
its  clothes,  and  thrown  over  the  wall  of  the  cemetery  ! 


ST.  AUGUSTIN— ST.  ANGEL— EL  DESIERTO. 

St.  Augustin  is  another  village  of  which  I  have  already  spoken ;  and 
St.  Angel  is  one  of  nearly  the  same  character,  except  that  the  views  from 
its  azoteas  over  the  valley  and  city,  are  perhaps  more  beautiful. 

The  pleasantest  ride,  however,  about  the  vale  or  its  adjoining  moun- 
tains, is  to  the  ruins  known  as  "  El  Dcsicrto,"  or  the  Desert ;  the  remains 
of  an  abandoned  Carmelite  convent,  built  among  the  rocky  recesses  of  the 
western  Sierra. 

It  is  a  fashionable  ride  of  about  seven  leagues,  and  parties  of  gentle- 
men, and  even  ladies,  make  it  a  resort  for  agreeable  pic-nics.  The  edi- 
fices were  built  between  two  hills,  and  are  now  going  rapidly  to  decay, 
yet  there  are  some  remains  of  cells  which  still  retain  their  coverings, 
while  the  main  buildings  are  unroofed  and  almost  choked  with  luxuriant 
trees  and  flowering  shrubbery. 

Thomas  Gage,  a  converted  monk,  who  visited  Mexico  about  the  end  of 
the  first  century  after  the  conquest,  gave  an  account  of  this  convent  in 
1677,  when  it  was  in  its  days  of  glory. 


ELDESIERTO.  159 

"  The  pleasantest  place,"  says  he,  "  of  all  that  are  about  Mexico,  is 
called  La  Soledad,  and  by  others  El  Desierto — the  Solitary,  or  Desert 
place.  Were  all  wildernesses  like  it,  to  live  in  a  wilderness  would  be 
better  than  to  live  in  a  city !  This  hath  been  a  device  of  poor  Fryers 
named  discalced,  or  barefooted  Carmelites,  who,  to  make  show  of  their 
apparent  godliness,  and  that  while  they  may  be  thought  to  live  like 
Eremites,  retired  from  the  world,  they  may  draw  the  world  unto  them, 
they  have  built  there  a  stately  cloister,  which  being  upon  a  hill  and 
among  rocks  makes  it  more  to  be  admired.  About  the  cloister  they  have 
fashioned  out  many  holes  and  caves,  in,  under,  and  among  the  rocks,  like 
Eremites'  lodgings,  with  a  room  to  lie  in,  and  an  oratory  to  pray  in,  with 
pictures  and  images,  and  rare  devices  for  mortifications,  as  disciplines  of 
wire,  rods  of  iron,  hair  cloths,  girdles  with  sharp  wire  points  to  girdle 
about  their  bare  flesh,  and  many  such  like  toys  which  hang  about  their 
oratories,  to  make  people  admire  their  mortified  and  holy  lives. 

"  All  the  eremitical  holes  and  caves  (which  are  some  ten  in  all)  are 
within  the  bounds  and  compass  of  the  cloister  and  among  gardens  and 
orchards  full  o|  fruits  and  flowers,  which  may  take  up  two  miles'  compass ; 
and  here  among  the  rocks  are  many  springs  of  water,  which,  with  the 
shade  of  the  plantains  and  other  trees,  are  most  cool  and  pleasant  to  the 
Eremites  ;  they  have,  also,  the  sweet  smell  of  the  rose  and  jasmine,  which 
is  a  little  flower,  but  the  sweetest  of  all  others ;  there  is  not  any  other 
flower  to  be  found  that  is  rare  and  exquisite  in  that  country  which  is  not 
in  that  wilderness,  to  delight  the  senses  of  those  mortified  Eremites ! 

"  They  are  weekly  changed  from  the  cloister ;  and  when  the  week  is 
ended,  others  are  sent,  and  they  return  unto  their  cloister ;  they  carry 
with  them  their  bottles  of  wine,  sweetmeats,  and  other  provision ;  as  for 
fruits,  the  trees  about  do  drop  them  into  their  mouths. 

"  It  is  wonderful  to  see  the  strange  devices  of  fountains  of  water  which 
are  about  the  gardens ;  but  much  more  wonderful  to  see  the  resort  of 
coaches,  and  gallants,  and  ladies,  and  citizens  from  Mexico  thither,  to 
walk  and  make  merry  in  those  desert  pleasures,  and  to  see  those  hypo- 
crites whom  they  look  upon  as  living  saints,  and  to  think  nothing  too 
good  for  them  to  cherish  them  in  their  desert  conflicts  with  Satan.  No 
one  goes  to  them  but  carries  some  sweetmeats  or  other  dainty  dish,  to 
nourish  and  feed  them  withal ;  whose  prayers  they  likewise  earnestly 
solicit,  leaving  them  great  alms  of  money  for  their  masses  ;  and  above 
all,  offering  to  a  picture  in  their  church,  called  "  Our  Lady  of  Carmel," 
treasures  of  diamonds,  pearls,  golden  chains,  and  crowns,  and  gowns  of 
cloth  of  gold  and  silver. 

''■Before  this  picture  did  hang,  in  my  time,  twenty  lamps  of  silver;  the 
worst  of  them  being  worth  a  hundred  pounds." 

Of  all  these  cool  retreats — these  quiet  haunts  for  monkish  mortification 
— the  abodes,  at  once,  of  humility  and  pride — nothing  now  remains  but 
heaps  of  ruins,  marking  the  former  cloisters  and  hermitages.  But  time 
has  been  unable  to  destroy  the  magnificent  prospect  that  bursts  upon  the 


160  AI  E  X  I  C  O  . 

traveller  as  he  emerges  from  between  the  hills  where  the  buildings  are 
nestled.  You  stand  nearly  a  thousand  feet  above  the  valley,  and,  in  the 
pure  and  rarefied  air  of  the  mountains,  the  vision  is  almost  unlimited 
over  a  world-like  panorama  of  crag,  lake,  city,  vale,  and  volcano.  I 
have  already  described  the  view  from  the  opposite  point  of  the  moun- 
tains, as  you  approach  Mexico  from  the  east,  and  I  shall  therefore 
not  detain  you  with  what  could  at  best  but  amount  to  an  amplified  cata- 
logue of  picturesque  features  in  the  most  charming  landscape  of  the 
world. 


JOURNAL    OF    A    JOURNEY 

IN    THE 

TIE  ERA    CALIENTE: 

BEING   AN    ACCOUNT    OF   A    VISIT    TO 

CUERNAVACA,     THE     RUINS    OF     XOCHICALCO,     THE 

CAVERN     OF     CACAHUAWAMILPA,     CUAUTLA 

DA     AMILPAS, 

AND    SEVERAL 

MEXICAN    HACIENDAS   OR   PLANTATIONS. 


17^  September,  1842.  This  is  still  the  rainy  season  in  the  Valley 
of  Mexico,  and  the  clouds  which  have  hung  around  the  valley  for  some 
weeks  past,  pouring  out  their  daily  showers,  seem  to  forbid  our  depar- 
ture upon  an  expedition  which  I  have  contemplated  making  before  I 
leave  Mexico ;  but  as  the  period  of  my  departure  is  rapidly  approaching, 
I  find  it  necessary  to  embrace  the  opportunity  presented  by  the  protection 
of  a  party  of  gentlemen  who  design  visiting,  during  the  next  two  weeks, 
some  of  the  most  interesting  portions  of  Tierra  Caliente,  south  of  the  Val- 
ley of  Mexico.  It  strikes  me,  too,  that  as  the  mountains  which  surround 
this  valley  are  the  highest  in  Mexico,  it  is  more  probable  that  the  stormy 
clouds,  driven  up  by  the  north  winds  from  the  sea,  gather  and  are  at- 
tracted by  these  heights,  and  consequently  expend  themselves  over  the 
nearest  plains  ; — the  adjoining  valleys  which  are  lower  than  this,  are 
likely,  therefore,  to  be  free  from  the  continual  deluge  of  water  with  which 
we  have  been  visited  for  the  last  two  months. 

Our  preparations  have  accordingly  all  been  made  to  set  out  to-day, 
about  four  o'clock. 
11 


162 


MEXICO. 


ST.  AUGUSTIN  DE  LAS  CUEVAS. 

At  three  o'clock  the  court-yard  of  our  houses  presented  the  appearance 
of  a  cavalry  barrack  ; — saddles,  sabres,  pistol-holsters,  huge  spurs,  whips, 
baggage,  horses,  and  servants.     By  four  o'clock  we  had  all  rendezvoused 

at  the  dwelling  of  Mr.  G ,  in  the  Calle  del  Semenario.     Our  party  is 

composed  of  seven,  among  whom  are  Mr.  Black  the  American  Consul, 
and  Mr.  Goury  du  Roslan,  the  Secretary  of  the  French  Legation ;  the 
rest  are  chiefly  Scotch  gentlemen,  engaged  in  commerce  in  Mexico. 
Two  mules  have  been  hired  and  laden  with  a  good  store  of  provant — 
such  as  hams,  corned- beef,  portable  soups,  sausages,  sardines,  and  wine, 
and  these  are  put  under  the  charge  of  an  arriero,  who,  with  my  servant, 
and  two  other  servants  of  our  companions,  make  up  a  company  of  eleven, 
all  mustered. 

Few  things  can  be  more  complete  for  all  weathers  and  all  seasons,  than 
the  outfit  of  a  Mexican  horseman.  He  has  everything  that  can  contri- 
bute to  the  comfort  or  necessity  of  the  passing  hour,  strapped  to  some  part 
of  his  horse  or  his  usual  equipments. 


NEXI.CAN     SERAPE, 


MEXICAN    HORSEMAN 


163 


First  of  all,  he  has  his  broad-brimmed,  steeple-crowned  Sombrero,  cov- 
ered with  oilskin ;  next,  his  short  leathern  jacket,  fancifully  embossed 
with  plated  nails,  like  the  old  buff-coats  of  the  feudal  freebooters ;  then, 
his  leather  trowsers  with  rows  of  buttons  at  the  seam,  preventing  the 
chafing  of  the  saddle,  and  his  leggings  to  protect  his  feet  and  ankles ;  in 
front  of  him  are  his  armas  de  agua,  a  large  skin  cut  in  two  parts,  the 
ends  of  which  on  one  side  are  fastened  to  the  saddle-bow,  the  other  two 
being  tied  behind  him,  so  that  his  legs  are  entirely  protected  from  rain ; 
before  them,  again,  are  strapped  his  pistols,  while,  passing  beneath  his 
left  leg,  rests  his  trusty  toledo.  From  the  peak,  in  front,  hangs  his  lasso, 
a  long  running-noose  with  which  he  catches  his  horse  in  the  morning ; 
and  behind  him  is  strapped  his  serape,  or  blanket-cloak,  with  a  slit  in  the 
middle,  which  he  throws  over  his  head  when  it  rains  or  is  cold,  and 
protects  him  from  the  weather  as  by  a  perfect  thatch. 


MEXICAN     HORSEMAN. 


Thus  mounted  on  his  high-peaked  Spanish  saddle,  with  stifF  wooden  stir- 
rups, over  which  are  long  ears  of  leather, — and  his  feet  armed  with  the 
11* 


164 


MEXICO. 


huge  Spanish  spur,  to  which  is  attached  a  small  ball  of  finely-tempered 
steel,  that  strikes  against  the  long  rowels  at  every  tread  of  the  man  or 
beast,  and  rings  like  a  fairy  bell, 


MEXICAN     STUR. 


you  have  a  complete  picture  of  a  Mexican  horseman,  equipped  at  every 
point  and  ready  for  the  road.  If  he  has  to  fight,  he  has  his  weapons  ;  if 
to  feed,  he  has  his  laden  mule ;  if  it  rain,  he  dons  his  serape  and  armas 
de  agua,  and  rides  secure  from  storm  and  wind  ;  and  if  he  arrives  at  an 
Indian  hut,  after  a  long  and  toilsome  journey,  and  no  bed  is  ready  to  re- 
ceive him,  he  spreads  the  skins  on  the  earthen  floor — his  saddle  is  his  pil- 
low, and  his  blanket  a  counterpane.  He  is  the  compendium  of  a  perfect 
travelling  household. 

In  this  guise  were  most  of  us  equipped  when  we  mustered  in  the  great 
square — except,  that  for  leathern  jackets,  we  had  substituted  blue  cloth, 
and  had  strapped  our  serapes  on  the  pillions  behind  us. 

All  were  punctual  to  the  minute,  and  the  arrie"ro,  together  with  Gomez, 
and  Antonio,  the  two  other  servants,  were  sent  on  to  the  Garrita,  to  pass 
our  carga  mules.  Gomez  was  a  stanch,  wooden-faced  old  trooper,  who  had 
done  good  service  in  the  troublous  times  in  Mexico  ;  Ramon,  a  Spaniard, — 
a  thin,  hatchet-visaged,  boasting,  slashing  rogue, — who  had  fought  through 
many  a  guerilla  party  of  the  Peninsular  war ;  and  Antonio,  a  sort  of 
weazened  supernumerary,  with  a  game  leg,  a  broken  nose,  a  toothless  up- 
per gum,  a  devilish  leering  eye,  and  a  pepper-and-salt  cur  as  worthless 
as  his  master,  who  amused  himself  during  the  whole  of  our  journey  by 
running  bulls,  tearing  sheep,  worrying  fowls,  and  taking  twice  as  much 
exercise  as  was  necessary. 


A    TROPIC    STORM.  165 

A  party  in  better  spirits  never  set  out.  We  had  the  prospect  of  relax- 
ation, the  sight  of  something  novel,  and  the  hope  of  propitious  skies. 

As  the  Cathedral  clock  struck  four  we  put  our  animals  in  motion — sed 
vana  spes  !  A  cloud,  which  had  been  for  some  time  threatening,  opened 
its  bosom.  In  a  moment  our  serapes  were  on,  the  armas  de  agua  tied 
round  our  waists,  and  the  storm  of  wind  and  rain  was  upon  us.  We  con- 
soled ourselves  by  thinking  it  was  only  the  baptism  of  the  expedition. 

At  the  city  gate  the  guard  of  Custom-house  officers  wished  to  charge 
an  export  duty  on  our  wine,  but  our  passes  from  M.  de  Bocanegra  and 
the  Governor  saved  us,  and  we  launched  forth  on  the  road  to  St.  Augus- 
tin,  with  the  shower  increasing  every  minute.  It  is  useless  to  say  more 
of  this  dreary  evening.  For  three  hours  the  rain  was  incessant ;  and 
that  the  rain  of  a  tropical  storm,  with  huge  drops,  and  wind  and  lightning. 
The  water  flowed  from  our  blankets  like  spouts.  The  road  over  the 
plain  was  no  longer  a  highway  but  a  water-course,  rushing  and  gurgling 
over  every  descent.  The  poor  Indians  returning  from  market  paddled 
along,  shrouded  up  in  their  petates.  There  was  no  conversation  in  the 
company.  Every  one  was  sulky,  and  felt  a  very  strong  disposition  to 
return  home  and  start  fair  with  dry  skies  to-morrow ;  but  it  was  decided 
to  push  on.  Finally,  one  of  our  carga  mules,  with  all  the  provant, 
tumbled  over  in  the  mud,  and  tried  to  kick  himself  clear  from  his  load ; 
the  arriero,  however,  was  directly  over  him  with  his  long  whip,  showering 
blows  on  head  and  haunches,  until  he  again  set  him  in  motion  for  the 
village. 

It  was  quite  dark  when  our  cold,  weary,  and  uncomfortable  party  en- 
tered St.  Augustin,  and  knocked  at  the  gate  of  Mr.  M 's  country- 
house,  where  we  were  to  stay  for  the  night.  We  hoped  to  find  everything 
duly  prepared  for  our  reception  ;  and  among  our  hopes,  not  the  least  was 
for  a  blazing  fire  to  dry  our  bespattered  garments.  We  came  up  to  the 
door,  one  by  one,  silently  and  surlily.  We  were  not  only  angry  with  the 
weather,  but  seemed  to  be  mutually  dissatisfied.  After  a  deal  of  thump- 
ing, the  door  was  slowly  opened,  and  instead  of  the  salutation  of  a  bril- 
liant blaze  in  the  midst  of  the  court-yard — one  miserable,  sickly  tallow 
candle  made  its  appearance  !  A  colder,  damper,  or  more  uncomfortable 
crew  never  reunited  after  a  storm ;  and  we  found,  notwithstanding  the 
usual  protection  of  Mexican  blankets,  Mexican  saddles,  and  armas  de 
agua,  that  the  rain  had  penetrated  most  of  our  equipments,  and  that  we 
were  decidedly  damp,  if  not  thoroughly  drenched. 

We  entered  the  house  after  disposing  of  our  accoutrements  in  a  large 
hall,  and  found  quite  comfortable  quarters,  and  beds  enough  for  all  par- 
ties. A  change  of  dress,  a  glass  of  capital  Farintosh,  (which  was  pro- 
duced from  the  capacious  leathern  bottle  of  Douglas,)  and  a  cut  at  the 
ham,  with  a  postscript  of  cigars,  set  us  all  to  rights  again ;  and  at  eleven 
o'clock,  as  I  write  this  memorandum,  the  party  are  singing  the  chorus  of 
a  song  to  Du  Roslan's  leading. 


166  MEXICO. 

Sunday,  18th.  I  was  asleep  last  night  in  five  minutes,  nor  did  I  awake 
until  aroused  at  5  o'clock  by  the  loud  pattering  of  the  rain  against  the 
shutters.  Cold,  gray,  cheerlessly,  the  day  broke ;  and  as  cold  and 
cheerlessly  did  we  assemble  in  the  kitchen  to  take  our  chocolate.  A 
council  was  held  as  to  proceeding  or  waiting  for  better  weather.  I  ad- 
hered to  my  theory,  that  the  rain  was  confined  to  the  Valley  of  Mexico ; 
and  that  when  we  had  passed  the  mountains  in  this  day's  journey,  we 
would  find  it  dry  and  pleasant  travelling  in  the  warmer  and  lower  coun- 
try. At  any  rate  there  was  something  consolatory  in  the  hope.  The  horses 
were  accordingly  ordered,  the  damp  dresses  packed,  our  serapes  wrung 
out,  and  the  mules  freighted  for  the  day. 

As  the  bells  were  ringing  for  mass,  and  the  villagers  hurrying  through 
the  streets  to  church,  we  sallied  forth,  every  man  trying  to  discover  the 
symptom,  even,  of  a  break  among  the  dreary  brownish  clouds  that  hung 
low  from  the  mountain-tops  to  the  valley. 

As  soon  as  the  road  leaves  the  town  of  St.  Augustin,  it  strikes  directly 
up  the  mountain,  and  runs  over  crags  and  ravines  which  in  our  country 
would  startle  the  delicate  nerves  of  a  lady.  Railroads  and  McAdam 
have  spoiled  us  ;  but  here,  where  the  toilsome  mule  and  the  universal 
horse  have  converted  men  almost  into  centaurs  and  are  the  traditionary 
means  of  communication,  no  one  thinks  of  improving  the  highways. 
But,  of  late  years,  diligences  are  getting  into  vogue  between  the  chief 
cities  of  the  Republic ;  and  one,  built  in  Troy,  has  been  started  on  this 
very  road.  How  it  gets  along  over  such  ruts  and  drains,  rocks  and  moun- 
tain-passes, it  is  difficult  to  imagine  ! 

On  we  went,  however,  over  hill  and  dale,  the  misty  rain  still  drifting 
around  us,  and  becoming  finer  and  mistier  as  we  rose  on  the  mountain. 
The  prospect  was  dreary  enough ;  but  in  fine  weather,  these  passes  are 
said  to  present  a  series  of  beautiful  landscapes.  In  front  is  then  beheld 
the  wild  mountain  scenery,  while,  to  the  north,  the  valley  sinks  gradually 
into  the  plain,  mellowed  by  distance,  and  traversed  by  the  lakes  of  Chalco 
and  Tezcoco.  Of  the  former  of  these  we  had  a  distinct  view  as  the  wind 
drifted  the  mist  aside  for  a  moment,  when  we  had  nearly  attained  the 
summit  of  the  mountain.  Here  we  passed  a  gang  of  laborers  impressed 
for  the  army,  and  going,  tied  in  pairs,  under  an  escort  of  soldiers,  to 
serve  in  the  Capital.  This  was  recruiting!  Further  on,  we  passed  the 
body  of  a  man  lying  on  the  side-path.  He  had  evidently  just  died,  and, 
perhaps,  had  been  one  of  the  party  we  had  encountered.  No  one  no- 
ticed him ;  his  hat  was  spread  over  his  face,  and  the  rain  was  pelting 
on  him. 

We  saw  no  habitations — no  symptoms  of  cultivation ;  in  fact,  nothing 
except  rocks  and  stunted  herbage,  and  now  and  then,  a  muleteer,  a  mis- 
erable Indian  plodding  with  a  pannier  of  fruit  to  Mexico,  or  an  Indian 
shepherd-boy,  in  his  long  thatch-cloak  of  watcr-fiags,  perched  on  a  crag 
and  watching  his  miserable  cattle.  We  were  now  travelling  among  the 
clouds,  near  9000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 


COUNTRY    HOTEL. 


167 


INDIAN      WITH      PANNIER, 


INDIAN     SHEPHERD. 


After  about  four  hours'  journey  in  this  desolation,  the  clouds  suddenly 
broke  to  the  southward,  revealing  the  blue  sky  between  masses  of  sullen 
vapor,  and  thus  we  reached  our  breakfasting  house  on  the  top  of  the 
mountain. 

Imagine  a  mud-hole,  (not  a  regular  lake  of  mud,  but  a  mass  of  that 
clayey,  oozey,  grayish  substance,  which  sucks  your  feet  at  every  step,) 
surrounded  by  eight  huts,  built  of  logs  and  reeds,  stuck  into  the  watery 
earth,  and  thatched  with  palm  leaves.  This  was  the  stage  breakfasting 
station,  on  the  road  from  Mexico  to  Cuernavaca !  We  asked  for  "  the 
house ;"  and  a  hut,  a  little  more  open  than  the  rest,  was  pointed  out.  It 
was  in  two  divisions,  one  being  closed  with  reeds,  and  the  other  entirely 
exposed,  along  one  side  of  which  was  spread  a  rough  board  supported  on 
four  sticks  covered  with  a  dirty  cloth.     It  was  the  principal  hotel  f 

There  was  no  denying  that  prospects  were  most  unpromising,  but  we 
were  too  hungry  to  wait  longer  for  food.     We  asked  for  breakfast,  but 


163  MEXICO. 

the  answer  was  the  slow  movement  of  the  long  forefinger  from  right  to 
left,  and  a  "  No  hai !" 

"  Any  eggs?" 

«  No  hai !" 

"  Any  tortillias  ?" 

"No  hai." 

"  Any  pulque  ?" 

«  No  hai." 

"  Any  chile  ?" 

"No  hai." 

"Any  water?" 

"  No  hai !" 

"  What  have  you  got  then  ?"  exclaimed  we,  in  a  chorus  of  desperation. 

"  Nada!"— nothing! 

We  tried  to  coax  them,  but  without  effect ;  and,  at  length,  we  ordered  a 
mule  to  be  unladen,  and  our  own  provisions  to  be  unpacked.  This  pro- 
duced a  stir  in  the  household,  as  soon  as  it  became  evident  that  there  was 
to  be  no  high  bid  for  food. 

In  a  moment  a  clapping  of  hands  was  heard  in  the  adjoining  room, 
and  I  found  a  couple  of  women  at  work,  one  grinding  corn  for  tortillias, 
and  the  other  patting  them  into  shape  for  the  griddle.  There  were 
two  or  three  other  girls  in  the  apartment,  and,  taking  a  seat  on  a  log,  and 
offering  a  cigarrito  to  each  of  them,  I  began  a  chat  with  the  prettiest, 
while  the  tortillias  were  cooking.  A  cigarrito,  a-piece,  exhausted,  and 
with  them,  half-a-dozen  jokes,  I  offered  another  to  each  of  the  damsels, 
and  found  them  getting  into  better  humor.  At  length,  one  arose,  and  af- 
ter rummaging,  among  the  pots  in  a  corner,  produced  a  couple  of  eggs, 
which  she  said'  should  be  cooked  for  me.  I  thanked  her,  and  by  a  lit- 
tle persuasion,  induced  her  to  add  half  a  dozen  more  for  the  rest  of  the 
party.  By  the  time  that  the  eggs  were  boiled  and  the  tortillias  baked,  I 
suggested  that  a  dish  of  molU  de  guagelote  would  be  delicious  with  them, 
and  felt  sure  that  a  set  of  such  pretty  lasses  must  know  how  to  make  it. 
"  Quien  sabe  ?"  said  one  of  them.  "  Was  there  not  some  left  from  this 
morning  ?"  said  another ;  and  they  both  arose  at  once  and  looked  again 
into  the  pots.  The  result  was  the  discovery  of  a  pan  heaped  with  the 
desired  turkey  and  chile,  and  another  quite  as  full  of  delicious  frijoles. 
These  were  placed  for  five  minutes  over  the  coals,  and  the  consequence 
was,  that  out  of  "  Nada"  I  contrived  to  cater  a  breakfast  that  fed  our 
company,  servants,  and  arriero,  and  which  would  have  doubtless  fed  the 
mules  also,  if  mules  ever  indulged  in  chiU-.  I  never  made  a  heartier 
meal,  relishing  it  greatly  in  spite  of  the  dirty  table-cloth,  the  dirty  women, 
the  dirty  village,  and  the  fact  that  my  respected  tortillia-maker,  while  en- 
gaged in  her  laudable  undertakings,  had  occasionally  varied  the  occu- 
pation, by  bestowing  a  pat  on  the  cake,  and  another,  with  the  same  hand, 
on  the  most  delicate  portion  of  the  leather-breeches  of  a  brat  wlio  annoyed 
her  by  bis  cries  and  his  antics.     I  shall  long  remember  those  girls,  and 


VALE    OF    CUERNAVACA.  169 

the  witchcraft  that  lies  in  a  little  good-humor,  and  a  paper  of  cigarritos. 
Let  no  one  travel  through  a  Spanish  country  without  them. 


About  one  o'clock,  we  had  again  mounted ;  and  riding  along  a  level 
road  which  winds  through  the  table-land  of  the  mountain-top,  we  passed 
the  Cruz  del  Marqttez,  a  large  stone  cross  set  up  not  long  after  the 
conquest,  to  mark  the  boundary  of  the  estate  presented  by  Montezuma 
to  Cortez.  At  this  spot  the  road  is  9,500  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  and  thence  commences  the  descent  of  the  southern  mountain-slope 
toward  the  Vale  of  Cuernavaca.  The  pine  forest  in  many  places  is 
open  and  arching,  like  a  park,  and  covers  a  wide  sweep  of  meadow 
and  valley.  The  air  soon  became  milder,  the  sun  warmer,  the  vege- 
tation more  varied,  the  fields  less  arid — and  yet  all  was  forest  scenery, 
apparently  untouched  by  the  hand  of  man.  In  this  respect  it  presents  a 
marked  difference  from  the  mountains  around  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  where 
the  denser  population  has  destroyed  the  timber  and  cultivated  the  land. 

This  road  is  remarkable  for  being  infested  with  robbers,  but  we  fortu- 
nately met  none.  We  were  probably  too  strong  for  the  ordinary  gangs — 
some  fifty  shots  from  a  company  of  foreigners,  with  double-barrel  guns 
and  revolving  pistols,  being  dangerous  welcome.  At  the  village  where 
we  breakfasted,  there  was  an  ugly-looking  band  of  scoundrels,  who  hung 
around  our  party  the  whole  time  we  remained  there,  watching  our  mo- 
tions and  examining  our  arms.  I  cannot  conceive  a  set  of  figures  better 
suited  to  the  landscape  that  village  presented,  than  these  same  human 
fungi,  who  had  sprung  up  amid  the  surrounding  physical  desolation,  and 
flourished  in  moral  rottenness.  Every  man  looked  the  rascal,  with  a 
beard  of  a  month's  growth  ;  slouched  hats,  from  under  which  they  scowled 
their  stealthy  side-glances  ;  sneaking,  cat-like  tread  ;  and  muffled  cloaks 
or  blankets,  that  but  badly  concealed  the  hilts  of  knives  and  machetes. 
None  of  these  gentlemen,  however,  pursued  or  encountered  us. 

After  a  slow  ride  during  the  afternoon,  we  suddenly  changed  our 
climate.  We  had  left  the  tierras  frias,  and  tierras  templadas,  (the 
cold  and  temperate  lands,)  and  had  plunged  at  once,  by  a  rapid  descent 
of  the  mountain,  into  the  tierra  caliente,  where  the  sun  was  raging  with 
tropical  fervor.  The  vegetation  became  entirely  different  and  more  luxu- 
riant, and  a  break  among  the  hills  suddenly  disclosed  to  us  the  Valley  of 
Cuernavaca,  bending  to  the  east  with  its  easy  bow.  The  features  of  this 
valley  are  entirely  different  from  those  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  for,  although 
both  possess  many  of  the  same  elements  of  grandeur  and  sublimity,  in 
the  lofty  and  wide-sweeping  mountains  ;  yet  there  is  a  southern  gentleness, 
and  purple  haziness  about  this,  that  softens  the  picture,  and  are  wanting 
in  the  Vale  of  Mexico,  in  the  high  and  rarefied  atmosphere  of  which  every 
object,  even  at  the  greatest  distance,  stands  out  with  almost  microscopic 


170  MEXICO. 

distinctness.  Besides  this,  the  foliage  is  fuller,  the  forests  thicker,  the 
sky  milder,  and  everything  betokens  the  sway  of  a  bland  and  tropical 
climate. 

A  bend  of  the  road  around  a  precipice,  revealed  to  us  the  town  of 
Cuernavaca,  lying  beyond  the  forest  in  the  lap  of  the  valley,  while  far  in 
the  east  the  mountains  were  lost  in  the  plain,  like  a  distant  line  of  sea. 
Our  company  gathered  together,  on  the  announcement  of  the  first  sight  of 
our  port  of  destination  for  the  night.  It  was  decided,  by  the  novices  in 
Mexican  travelling,  that  it  could  not  be  more  distant  than  a  couple  of 
leagues  at  farthest ;  but  long  was  the  weary  ride,  descending  and  descend- 
ing, with  scarcely  a  perceptible  decrease  of  space,  before  we  reached 
the  city. 

In  the  course  of  this  afternoon  we  passed  through  several  Indian  vil- 
lages, and  saw  numbers  of  people  at  work  in  the  fields  by  the  road  side. 
Two  things  struck  me  :  first,  the  miserable  hovels  in  which  the  Indians 
are  lodged,  in  comparison  with  which  a  decent  dog-kennel  at  home  is  a 
comfortable  household  ;  and  second,  the  fact  that  this,  although  the  Sab- 
bath, was  no  day  of  repose  to  these  ever- working,  but  poor  and  thriftless 
people.  Many  of  the  wretched  creatures  were  stowed  away  under  a 
roof  of  thatch,  stuck  on  the  bare  ground,  with  a  hole  left  at  one  end  to 
craicl  in  ! 

What  can  be  the  benefit  of  a  Republican  form  of  government  to  masses 
of  such  a  population  ?  They  have  no  ambition  to  improve  their  condi- 
tion, or  in  so  plenteous  a  country  it  would  be  improved  ;  they  are  con- 
tent to  live  and  lie  like  the  beasts  of  the  field  ;  they  have  no  qualifications 
for  self-government,  and  they  can  have  no  hope,  when  a  life  of  such  toil 
avails  not  to  avoid  such  misery.  Is  it  possible  for  such  men  to  become 
Republicans  ?  It  appears  to  me  that  the  life  of  a  negro,  under  a  good 
master,  in  our  country,  is  far  better  than  the  beastly  degradation  of  the 
Indian  here.  With  us,  he  is  at  least  a  man ;  but  in  Mexico,  even  the 
instincts  of  his  human  nature  are  scarcely  preserved. 

It  is  true  that  these  men  are  free,  and  have  the  unquestionable  liberty, 
after  raising  their  crop  of  fruits  or  vegetables,  to  trot  with  it  fifty  or  sixty 
miles,  on  foot,  to  market;  where  the  produce  of  their  toil  is,  in  a  few 
hours,  spent,  either  at  the  gambling  table  or  the  pulque  shop.  After  this 
they  have  the  liberty,  as  soon  as  they  get  sober,  to  trot  back  again  to  their 
kennels  in  the  mountains,  if  they  are  not  previously  lassoed  by  some  re- 
cruiting sergeant,  and  forced  to  "  volunteer"  in  the  army.  Yet  what  is 
the  worth  of  such  purposeless  liberty  or  the  worth  of  such  purposeless 
life  ?  There  is  not  a  single  ingredient  of  a  noble-spirited  and  highminded 
mountain  peasantry  in  them.  Mixed  in  their  races,  they  have  been  en- 
slaved and  degraded  by  the  conquest;  ground  into  abject  servility  du- 
ring the  Colonial  government ;  corrupted  in  spirit  by  the  superstitious 
rites  of  an  ignorant  priesthood  ;  and  now,  without  hope,  without  education, 
without  other  interest  in  their  welfare,  than  that  of  some  good-hearted 


CITY    OF    CUERNAVACA.  171 

village  curate,  they  drag  out  a  miserable  existence  of  beastiality  and 
crime.     Shall  such  men  be  expected  to  govern  themselves  ? 


It  was  long  after  sunset  when  we  descended  the  last  steep,  and  passed 
a  neat  little  village,  where  the  people  were  sitting  in  front  of  their  low- 
roofed  houses,  from  every  one  of  which  issued  the  tinkle  of  guitars. 
The  bright  sky  reflected  a  long  twilight,  and  it  was  just  beooming  dark 
when  we  trotted  into  Cuernavaca,  after  a  ride  of  fourteen  leagues. 

Our  companions  had  already  reached  the  inn,  and  as  we  dashed  into 
the  court-yard,  we  found  them  a  tort  et  a  travers  with  the  landlord  about 
rooms.  We  had  seen  a  flaming  advertisement  of  this  tavern  and  its  com- 
forts in  the  papers  of  the  Capital,  and  counted  largely  on  splendid  apart- 
ments and  savory  supper  after  our  tiresome  ride  and  pic-nic  breakfast. 
But,  as  at  the  "  diligence  hotel "  in  the  morning — everything  went  to 
the  tune  of  "  No  hai!"  No  hai  beds,  rooms,  meats,  soups,  supper — 
nada  !  They  had  nothing  !  We  ended  by  securing  two  rooms,  and  I  set 
out  to  examine  them,  as  well  as  my  legs  (stiff"  from  being  all  day  in  the 
hard  Mexican  stirrups)  would  let  me.  The  first  room  I  entered  was 
covered  with  water  from  the  heavy  rains.  The  second  adjoined  the  first ; 
and,  although  the  walls  were  damp,  the  floor  was  dry  ;  but  there  was 
no  window  or  opening  except  the  door ! 

We  had  secured  the  room,  and  of  course  wanted  beds  ;  because,  room 
and  bed,  and  bureau,  and  wash-stand,  and  towels,  and  soap,  are  not  all 
synonymous  here  as  in  other  civilized  countries.  Four  of  our  travellers 
had  fortunately  brought  cots  with  them;  but  I  had  trusted  to  my  two 
blankets  and  my  old  habits  of  foraging.  At  length  the  master  managed 
to  find  a  bed  for  two  more  of  us,  and  a  cot  for  me,  and  thus  the  night  was 
provided  for.  We  had  resolved  not  to  go  without  supper,  and  my  talents 
in  that  branch  of  our  adventures  having  been  proved  in  the  morning, 
I  was  dispatched  to  the  kitchen.  I  will  not  disclose  the  history  of  my 
negotiations  on  this  occasion,  but  suffice  it  to  say  that  in  an  hour's  time 
we  had  a  soup  ;  a  fragment  of  stewed  mutton  ;  a  dish  of  Lima  beans  ;  a 
famous  dish  of  turkey  and  peppers  ;  and  the  table  was  set  off  by  an  enor- 
mous head  of  lettuce  in  the  centre,  garnished  with  outposts  of  oranges 
on  either  side,  while  two  enormous  pine-apples  reared  their  prickly  leaves 
in  front  and  rear. 

An  hour  afterward  we  had  all  retired  to  our  windowless  room,  and 
after  piling  our  baggage  against  the  door  to  keep  out  the  robbers,  I  wrap- 
ped myself  in  my  blanket,  on  the  bare,  pillowless,  sacking-bottom,  and 
was  soon  asleep. 

Monday,  19th  September.  The  morning  was  exceedingly  fine,  the 
sun  was  out  brightly,  and  there  were  no  symptoms  of    the  rain  that 


172  MEXICO. 

had  fallen  during  the  night,  except  in  the  freshness  it  had  imparted  to 
the  luxuriant  vegetation  of  the  valley. 

Before  breakfast  I  sallied  forth  for  a  walk  over  the  town.  Cuernavaca 
lies  on  a  tongue  of  land  jutting  out  into  the  lap  of  the  valley.  On  its 
western  side,  a  narrow  glen  has  been  scooped  out  by  the  water  which  de- 
scends from  the  mountains,  and  its  sides  are  thickly  covered  with  the 
richest  verdure.  To  the  east,  the  city  again  slopes  rapidly,  and  then  as 
rapidly  rises.  I  walked  down  this  valley  street  past  the  church  built  by 
Cortez,  (an  old  picturesque  edifice,  filled  with  nooks  and  corners,)  where 
they  were  chanting  a  morning  mass.  In  the  yard  of  the  Palace,  or 
Casa  Municipal,  at  the  end  of  the  street,  a  body  of  dismounted  cavalry 
soldiers  was  going  through  the  sword  exercise.  From  this  I  went  to  the 
Plaza  in  front  of  it,  at  present  nearly  covered  with  a  large  Wooden  am- 
phitheatre, that  had  been  devoted  to  bull  fights  during  the  recent  national 
holydays.  Around  the  edges  of  this  edifice,  the  Indians  and  small  farm- 
ers spread  out  their  mats,  covered  with  fine  fruits  and  vegetables  of  the 
tierra  caliente.  I  passed  up  and  down  a  number  of  the  steep  and  nar- 
row streets,  bordered  with  ranges  of  one-story  houses,  open  and  cool, 
and  fronted  usually  with  balconies  and  porches  screening  them  from  the 
scorching  sun.  The  softer  and  gentler  appearance  of  the  people,  as  com- 
pared with  those  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  struck  me  forcibly.  The  whole 
has  a  Neapolitan  air.  The  gardens  are  numerous  and  full  of  flowers. 
By  the  street  sides,  small  canals  continually  pour  along  the  cool  and 
clear  waters  from  the  mountains. 

At  nine  o'clock  I  returned  to  breakfast,  and  found  it  rather  better  than 
our  last  night's  supper.  While  this  meal  was  preparing,  I  strolled  out 
into  the  garden  back  of  the  hotel. 

The  house  once  belonged  to  a  convent,  and  was  occupied  by  monks ; 
but  many  years  since  it  was  purchased  by  a  certain  Joseph  Laborde,  who 
played  a  bold  part  in  the  mine-gambling  which  once  agitated  the  Mexi- 
cans with  its  speculative  excitement. 

In  1743,  Laborde  came,  as  a  poor  youth,  to  Mexico,  and  by  a  fortunate 
venture  in  the  mine  of  the  Canada  del  Real  de  Tapujahua,  ho  gained 
immense  wealth.  After  building  a  church  in  Tasco  which  cost  him  near 
half  a  million,  he  was  suddenly  reduced  to  the  greatest  misery,  both  by 
unlucky  speculations,  and  the  failure  of  mines  from  which  he  had  drawn 
an  annual  revenue  of  between  two  and  three  hundred  thousand  marks. 
The  Archbishop,  however,  permitted  him  to  dispose  of  a  golden  soldi,  en- 
riched with  diamonds,  which,  in  his  palmy  days,  he  had  presented  to  his 
church  at  Tasco  ;  and  with  the  produce  of  the  sale,  which  amounted  to 
nigh  one  hundred  thousand  dollars,  he  returned  once  more  to  Zacatecas. 
This  district  was  at  that  period  nearly  abandoned  as  a  mining  country, 
and  produced  annually  but  fifty  thousand  marks  of  silver.  But  Laborde 
immediately  undertook  the  celebrated  mine  of  Quebradilla,  and  in  work- 
ing it,  lost  again,  nearly  all  his  capital.     Yet  was  he  not  to  be  deterred. 


LABORDE.  173 

With  the  scanty  remains  of  his  wealth,  he  persevered  in  his  labors; 
struck  on  the  veto,  granda,  or  great  vein  of  La  Esperenza,  and  thereby,  a 
second  time,  replenished  his  coffers.  From  that  period,  the  produce 
of  the  mines  of  Zacatecas  rose  to  near  five  hundred  thousand  marks 
a  year,  and  Laborde,  at  his  death,  left  three  millions  of  livres.  In  the 
meantime,  however,  he  had  forced  his  only  daughter  into  a  convent,  in 
order  that  he  might  bequeath  his  immense  property  unembarrassed  to  his 
son  ;  who,  in  turn,  infected  like  his  father  with  religious  bigotry,  volunta- 
rily embraced  the  monastic  life,  and  ended  the  family's  career  of  avarice 
and  ambition. 

During  his  days  of  prosperity,  Laborde  had  owned  the  property  on 
which  we  are  now  staying,  and  embellished  it  with  every  adornment  that 
could  bring  out  the  beauties  of  surrounding  nature.  The  dwelling  is  said 
to  have  been  magnificent  before  it  was  destroyed  during  the  Revolution, 
but  nothing  remains  now  of  all  the  splendor  with  which  the  speculator 
enriched  it,  except  the  traces  of  its  beautiful  garden.  This  is  situated  on 
the  western  slope  bending  toward  the  glen,  and  contains  near  eight  acres 
in  its  two  divisions.  These  he  covered  with  a  succession  of  gradually 
descending  terraces,  filled  with  the  rarest  natural  and  exotic  flowers.  In 
the  midst  of  these  gardens  is  still  a  tank  for  water-fowl,  and  over  the  high 
western  wall  rises  a  mirador  or  bellevue,  from  which  the  eye  ranges  north, 
south,  and  west,  to  the  mountains  over  the  plain,  which  is  cut  in  its  cen- 
tre by  the  tangled  dell. 

The  northern  division  of  this  garden  is  reached  by  a  flight  of  steps 
from  the  first,  and  incloses  a  luxuriant  grove  of  forest  trees,  broad-leaved 
plantains,  and  a  few  solitary  palms  waving  over  all  their  fan- like  branches. 
In  these  dense  and  delicious  shades  through  which  the  sun,  at  noon,  can 
scarcely  penetrate,  a  large  basin  spreads  out  into  a  mimic  lake.  A  flight 
of  fifteen  steps  descend  to  it  from  the  bank,  and  were  once  filled  with  jars 
of  flowers.  In  the  centre  of  this  sheet  two  small  gardens  are  still  planted, 
and  the  flowers  bending  over  their  sides  and  growing  to  their  very  edge, 
seem  floating  on  the  waters.  At  the  extreme  end  of  the  grounds,  a  deep 
summer-house  extends  nearly  the  whole  width  of  the  field  on  arches,  and 
its  walls  are  painted  in  fresco  to  resemble  a  beautiful  garden  filled  with 
flowers  and  birds  of  the  rarest  plumage.  Looking  at  this  from  the  south 
end  of  the  little  lake,  the  deception  is  perfect,  and  you  seem  beholding  the 
double  of  the  actual  prospect,  repeated  by  some  witchery  of  art. 

I  would  gladly  have  spent  the  day  in  this  garden,  but  we  had  arranged 
our  journey  so  as  to  devote  a  portion  of  this  morning  to  visit  the  adjacent 
hacienda  of  Temisco,  a  sugar  plantation,  owned  by  the  Del  Barrios,  of 
Mexico.  Accordingly,  after  breakfast  we  mounted,  and  passing  down  the 
steep  descents  to  the  east,  we  struck  off  into  the  fields  in  a  southwardly 
direction. 

The  beautiful  suburbs  of  Cuernavaca  are  chiefly  inhabited  by  Indians, 
whose  houses  are  built  along  the  narrow  lanes ;  and  in  a  country  where 
it  is  a  comfort  to  be  all  day  long  in  the  open  air  under  the  shade  of  trees, 


174  MEXICO. 

and  where  you  require  no  covering  except  to  shelter  you  in  sleep  and 
showers,  you  may  readily  imagine  that  the  dwellings  of  the  people  are 
exceedingly  slight.  A  few  canes  stuck  on  end,  and  a  thatch  of  cane, 
complete  them. 

But  the  broad-leaved  plantain,  the  thready  pride  of  China,  the  "  feath- 
ery palm,"  bending  over  them,  and  matted  together  by  lacing  vines  and 
creeping  plants  covered  with  blossoms — these  form  the  real  dwellings. 
The  whole,  in  fact,  would  look  like  a  picture  from  "  Paul  and  Virginia" — 
but  for  the  figures  !  "  Unkempt"  men,  indolent  and  lounging ;  begrimed 
women,  surrounded  by  a  set  of  naked  little  imps  as  begrimed  as  they ; 
and  all  crawling  or  rolling  over  the  filth  of  their  earthen  floors,  or  on 
dirty  hides  stretched  over  sticks  for  a  bed.  A  handful  of  corn,  a  bunch 
of  plantains,  or  a  pan  of  beans  picked  from  the  nearest  bushes,  is  their 
daily  food ;  and  here  they  burrow,  like  so  many  animals,  from  youth  to 
manhood,  from  manhood  to  the  grave. 


After  leaving  the  city,  our  road  lay  for  some  distance  along  the  high 
table-land,  and  at  length  struck  into  the  glen  which  passes  from  the  west 
of  Cuernavaca,  where,  for  the  first  time  in  Mexico,  I  actually  lost  the 
high-road.  Imagine  the  channel  of  a  mountain-stream  down  the  side  of 
an  Alleghany  mountain,  with  its  stones  chafed  out  of  all  order,  and 
many  of  them  worn  into  deep  clefts  by  the  continual  tread  of  mules  fol- 
lowing each  other,  over  one  path,  for  centuries.  This  was  the  main  turn- 
pike of  the  country  to  the  port  of  Acapulco,  and  several  of  our  party 
managed  to  continue  on  horseback  while  descending  the  ravine ;  but  out 
of  respect  both  for  myself  and  the  animal  I  bestrode,  I  dismounted,  and 
climbed  over  the  rocks  and  gullies  to  the  bottom  of  the  glen,  where  we 
crossed  a  swift  stream  on  a  bridge.  Ascending  from  this  to  the  ridge  on 
the  opposite  side,  in  rather  a  scrambling  manner,  we  entered  the  domain 
of  the  hacienda*  of  Temisco,  the  buildings  of  which  we  shortly  reached 
after  passing  through  an  Indian  village,  where  most  of  the  laborers  on 
the  estate  reside. 

This  is  one  of  the  oldest  establishments  of  note  in  the  Republic,  and 
passed,' not  many  years  since,  into  the  hands  of  the  present  owners  for  the 
sum  of  $300,000.  The  houses  (consisting  of  the  main  dwelling,  a  large 
chapel,  and  all  the  requisite  out-buildings  for  grinding  the  cane  and  re- 
fining the  sugar,)  were  erected  shortly  after  the  conquest,  and  their  walls 
bear  yet  the  marks  of  the  bullets  with  which  the  refractory  owner  was 
assailed  during  one  of  the  numerous  revolts  in  Mexico.  He  stood  out 
stoutly  against  the  enemy,  and  mustering  his  faithful  Indians  within  the 
walls  of  his  court-yard,  repulsed  the  insurgents. 

*  "  Hacienda,"  is  the  name  given  to  all  estates  or  plantations  in  contradistinction  to  "  Rancho,"  a  farm. 


INDIAN  HUT  IN  THE  TIERRA  CALIENTE. 


A    HACIENDA.  175 

The  estate  spreads  over  a  tract  of  eleven  leagues  in  length  by  three 
in  breadth.  It  employs  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  laborers,  at  two 
and  a  half  and  three  reals  per  day,  who  produce  about  fifty  thousand 
loaves  of  sugar,  of  from  twenty-two  to  twenty-four  pounds,  per  annum. 
It  is  calculated  that  the  molasses  pays  all  the  expenses  of  the  establish- 
ment, which  amount  to  near  thirty  thousand  dollars.  At  the  store  of  the 
hacienda,  (belonging  to  the  proprietor  of  the  estate,)  almost  the  whole  of 
this  sum  is  received  back  from  the  Indians,  who,  I  perceived,  purchased 
even  their  bread.  In  addition  to  the  revenue  from  the  sugar  crop,  about 
eight  thousand  head  of  cattle  feed  on  the  premises,  half  of  which  are  the 
property  of  its  owner,  the  other  half  being  strays  from  adjoining  haciendas. 


We  were  received  by  Don  Rafael,  (one  of  the  brothers  del  Barrios,)  who 
we  unexpectedly  met  on  the  estate.  He  conducted  us  into  a  long  monastic- 
looking  hall,  nearly  bare  of  furniture,  yet  bearing  traces  of  taste  and  re- 
finement, in  a  well-selected  library  and  valuable  piano  in  one  corner,  while 
a  hammock,  suspended  from  the  unplastered  rafters,  swung  across  the  airy 
apartment.  Here  we  were  most  hospitably  entertained,  and  enjoyed  a 
pleasant  chat  with  the  owner,  in  French,  Spanish,  English  and  German, 
all  of  which  languages  the  worthy  gentleman  speaks, — having  not  only 
travelled  in,  but  dwelt  long  and  observingly  in  every  country  of  Europe. 
It  was  strange,  in  these  wild  portions  of  Mexico,  in  the  midst  of  Indians, 
to  drop  thus  suddenly  and  unexpectedly  by  the  side  of  a  well-bred  man, 
dressed  in  his  simple  costume  of  a  plain  country  farmer,  who  could  con- 
verse with  you  in  most  of  the  modern  tongues,  upon  all  subjects — from 
the  collections  of  the  Pitti  Palace  and  the  Vatican,  to  the  breed  and  edu- 
cation of  a  game  cock  ! 

As  we  looked  •  over  the  fields  of  cane,  waving  their  long,  delicate 
green  leaves,  in  the  mid-day  sunshine  to  the  south,  he  pointed  out  to  us  the 
site  of  an  Indian  village,  at  the  distance  of  three  leagues,  the  inhabitants 
of  which  are  almost  in  their  native  state.  He  told  us,  that  they  do  not  permit 
the  visits  of  white  people ;  and  that,  numbering  more  than  three  thousand, 
they  come  out  in  delegations  to  work  at  the  haciendas,  being  governed  at  home 
by  their  own  magistrates,  administering  their  own  laws,  and  employing  a  Cath- 
olic priest,  once  a  year,  to  shrive  them  of  their  sins.  The  money  they  receive 
in  payment  of  wages,  at  the  haciendas,  is  taken  home  and  buried ;  and 
as  they  produce  the  cotton  and  skins  for  their  dress,  and  the  corn  and 
beans  for  their  food,  they  purchase  nothing  at  the  stores.  They  form  a 
good  and  harmless  community  of  people,  rarely  committing  a  depredation 
upon  the  neighboring  farmers,  and  only  occasionally  lassoing  a  cow  or  a 
bull,  which  they  say  they  "  do  not  steal,  but  take  for  food."  If  they  are 
chased  on  such  occasions,  so  great  is  their  speed  of  foot,  they  are  rarely 
caught  even  by  the  swiftest  horses  ;  and  if  their  settlement  is  ever  entered 
by  a  white,  the  transgressor  is  immediately  seized,  put  tinder  guard  in  a  large 
hut,  and  he  and  his  animal  are  fed  and  carefully  attended  to  until  the  follow- 


176  MEXICO. 

ing  day,  when  he  is  dispatched  from  the  village  under  an  escort  of  Indians, 
who  watch  him  until  far  beyond  the  limits  of  the  primitive  settlement. 

Du  Roslan  and  myself  felt  a  strong  desire  (notwithstanding  the  inhibi- 
tion,) to  visit  this  original  community,  as  one  of  the  most  interesting  objects 
of  our  journey ;  but  the  rest  of  our  party  objecting,  we  were  forced  to 
submit  to  the  law  of  majorities  in  our  wandering  tribe. 

I  observed,  that  on  this  hacienda  the  proprietors  have  introduced  all 
the  improvements  in  the  art  of  making  sugar,  and  obtained  their  horizontal 
rollers  and  boiling-pans  from  New- York.  How  they  reached  their  places 
over  the  wretched  roads,  must  ever  remain  a  riddle  to  others  but  Mexican 
teamsters ;  and  yet,  after  all  the  immense  outlay  of  capital,  in  the  pur- 
chase and  improvement  of  this  property,  the  proprietor  complains  bitterly, 
this  year,  of  the  difficulty  of  selling  its  produce,  and  the  general  depres- 
sion of  the  times.  With  roads  to  transport  his  crop  to  market,  and 
with  ideas  beyond  the  back  of  a  mule  as  the  only  means  of  transportation,  he 
would  not  be  forced  to  complain  long  of  stagnant  trade  and  trifling  profits. 
Peace,  internal  improvement,  and  native  enterprise,  unmolested  by  fiscal 
legislation,  are  what  Mexico  requires ;  and,  until  she  obtains  them,  the 
planter  may  vainly  expend  his  fortune  in  mechanical  improvements. 


We  reached  Cuernavaca  about  3  o'clock,  meeting  on  the  way  a  number 
of  muleteers,  and  Indians  with  their  wives,  returning  from  market.  A 
gang  of  thieves,  sent  under  a  guard  to  the  town  prison,  also  passed  us  on 
the  road. 

We  entered  the  city,  through  the  delightful  suburb  of  groves.  The 
families  of  many  of  the  better  classes  of  the  inhabitants  were  sitting  under 
the  shade  of  their  porches,  and  it  was  impossible  to  avoid  remarking  the 
delicate  beauty  of  the  females. 

Indolence  is  said  to  be  the  general  characteristic  of  Cuernavaca ;  and, 
as  in  all  fine  climates,  it  is  fatal  to  enterprise  and  industry.  The  tem- 
perature is  too  high  for  these  virtues.  Man  wants  but  shade,  shelter, 
and  a  gratified  appetite,  and  there  is  no  inducement  to  make  the  interior 
of  dwellings  either  beautiful  or  attractive.  Working  in  the  open  air 
fatigues — reading,  within,  makes  them  drowsy.  They  rise  early,  because 
it  is  too  warm  to  lie  in  bed ;  they  go  to  mass,  for  exercise  in  the  cool  and 
balmy  morning  air ;  they  go  to  sleep  after  their  meals,  because  it  is 
too  warm  to  walk  about ;  and  they  go  to  vespers,  to  pass  the  time  until  the 
hour  arrives  for  another  meal,  as  preparatory  to  another  nap  !  And  thus, 
between  sleep,  piety,  and  victuals,  life  passes  aimlessly  enough,  in  this 
region  of  eternal  summer. 


A    FANDANGO.  177 

We  lounged  for  an  hour  or  two  in  Laborde's  beautiful  garden,  watching 
he  sunset  over  the  western  glen,  and  found  it  difficult  to  leave  even  for  the 
promise  of  a  dinner.  While  we  had  been  on  our  morning  visit  to  the 
hacienda,  the  diligence  arrived  from  Mexico,  and  the  hungry  passengers, 
who  had  travelled  since  three  o'clock  almost  without  food,  made  a  deep 
inroad  in  the  larder.  It  required  some  energy  to  repair  this  havoc  ;  and 
as  our  dinner  had  been  ordered  at  six  o'clock,  I  took  occasion  to  pay  my 
respects  to  the  cook-maid.  With  the  aid  of  a  little  cash  and  persuasion, 
I  managed  to  preserve  our  own  stores  untouched  until  we  penetrate  far- 
ther into  the  country,  where,  in  all  likelihood,  we  will  need  them  more. 

After  dinner,  we  took  a  walk  by  moonlight  through  the  town.  The 
night  was  as  cloudless  and  serene,  as  one  of  our  summer  evenings  by 
the  sea-shore. 

Antonio,  the  broken-nosed  hero,  and  owner  of  the  cur,  proposed  that 
we  should  go  to  see  a  fandango,  at  the  house  of  one  of  the  burghers, 
who  was  his  friend.  He  led  the  way,  through  several  streets,  to  a  neat 
dwelling  in  the  midst  of  a  garden,  where  we  found  a  row  of  elderly  ladies 
strung  on  high-backed  chairs  against  the  wall,  while  a  dozen  young  and 
pretty  ones  (by  the  light  of  a  couple  o'f  starved  tallow  candles,)  received 
the  compliments  of  as  many  of  the  village  beaux.  Two  or  three  musi- 
cians were  seated  in  a  corner  strumming  their  bandalones,  and  going 
through  a  half  hour  of  preparatory  tuning,  while  the  company  gathered. 
At  length,  when  all  had  assembled,  the  schoolmaster — a  veteran  and  a 
bachelor,  the  briskest  and  busiest  man  of  the  party — constituted  himself 
master  of  ceremonies  for  the  evening,  and  insisted  on  our  joining  in  a 
contra  dance,  got  up  expressly  for  the  strangers.  Du  Roslan  and  myself 
joined  the  dance,  on  my  principle  of  "taking  people  as  they  are,  and 
doing  as  they  do ;"  besides  that  I  think  it  always  in  the  worst  taste  to 
leave  men,  no  matter  how  humble  or  poor  they  may  be,  under  the  im- 
pression that  you  have  visited  them  as  curiosities.  After  footing  it  through, 
we  handed  the  servants  a  couple  of  dollars  to  bring  in  refreshments  of 
"Perfect-love"  and  "Noyau"  for  the  ladies,  and  something  more  likely 
to  be  relished  by  the  gentlemen.  This  we  understood  was  not  contrary 
to  the  rules  of  "  good  society  ;" — so  they  sipped  and  became  livelier.  A 
couple  took  the  floor — the  lady  with  castanets,  and  the  man  chanting  an 
air  to  the  guitar.  Another  pair  followed  their  example,  while  the  re- 
mainder formed  a  cotillon,  to  the  twang  of  the  rest  of  the  instruments. 
The  Cuernavacans  seemed  wide  awake,  for  once  at  least,  and  we  stole 
off  quietly  at  midnight,  in  the  midst  of  an  uproar  of  music  and  merriment. 


20th  September.  At  four  o'clock,  day  was  just  breaking  and  the  moon 
still  shining,  when  we  passed  through  the  suburbs  of  Cuernavaca.  As 
we  reached  the  highlands  of  the  plateau,  where  the  barranca  breaks  pre- 
cipitously, the  sun  rose.  There  had  been  no  rain  during  the  night ;  the 
sky  was  perfectly  clear,  and  in  the  distance  lay  the  mountains  of  the 
12 


178  MEXICO. 

southern  Sierra,  with  the  morning  mists  resting  like  lakes  amon^r  their 
folds. 

Passing  over  the  declivitous  road  we  had  traversed  yesterday,  we  soon 
struck  off  to  the  right,  near  the  hacienda  of  Temisco,  and  after  crossing 
a  deep  ravine,  rose  to  a  still  higher  plateau,  where  we  enjoyed  a  beautiful 
view  of  this  splendid  estate,  with  its  white  walls  and  chapel  tower, 
buried  in  the  middle  of  bright  green  cane-fields,  waving  with  the  fresh 
breeze  in  the  early  light. 

From  this  eminence  the  guide  (who  was  a  half-breed  Indian  and  Ne- 
gro,) pointed  out  to  me  a  small  mountain,  at  the  extremity  of  the  plain  in 
front,  on  which  was  situated  the  Pyramid  of  Xochicalco — the  subject  of 
our  day's  explorations.  The  cerro  appears  to  rise  directly  out  of  the 
levels  between  two  mountains,  and  the  plain  continuing  to  its  very  foot, 
might  seemingly  be  traversed  in  half  an  hour.  Accordingly,  I  expressed 
this  opinion  to  the  guide,  and  put  my  horse  directly  in  motion  for  it ;  but 
the  half-breed  turned  off  to  the  right.  I  remonstrated,  as  the  whole  pla- 
teau appeared  to  be  a  perfect  prairie,  smooth  and  easily  crossed ;  but  he 
insisted  that  in  the  straight  forward  direction,  and,  indeed,  in  all  direc- 
tions, it  was  cut  by  one  of  those  vast  barrancas,  which,  worn  by  the  attri- 
tion of  water  for  ages,  break  on  you  unexpectedly  in  the  most  level  fields, 
forcing  you  frequently  to  tread  back  your  path,  or  to  go  miles  around  for 
a  suitable  crossing.  The  space  in  a  direct  line  over  these  gullies  may  be 
no  more  than  fifty  yards  before  you  strike  the  same  level  on  the  opposite 
bank — and  yet  to  reach  it,  you  are  compelled  to  descend  hundreds  of 
feet  and  ascend  again,  among  rocks  and  herbage,  for  the  distance  of  a 
mile.  Such  was  the  account  of  the  barrancas,  given  by  our  guide,  except 
that  he  declared  the  one  in  front  of  us  to  be  at  present  entirely  impassable. 
I  submitted,  therefore,  to  his  advice,  and  turning  off  with  him  to  the  right, 
we  trotted  away  at  the  head  of  our  party,  and  soon  lost  sight  of  our  lag- 
ging friends. 

In  a  quarter  of  an  hour  we  reached  one  of  the  barrancas  of  which  he 
had  spoken,  and  it  fully  justified  his  description  : — a  wide,  yawning  gulf 
in  the  midst  of  the  plain,  with  precipitous  sides  tangled  with  rocks  and 
shrubbery. 

Although  the  path  was  scarcely  broad  enough  for  the  horse's  feet, — 
with  a  steep  towering  on  the  right,  and  a  precipice  of  a  hundred  yards 
plunging  down  immediately  on  his  left, — this  bold  rider  never  quitted  his 
animal,  but  pushed  right  onward.  I  confess  that  I  paused  before  I  fol- 
lowed. 

Two  travellers,  who  passed  us  half  an  hour  before,  had  already  de- 
scended, and  were  thridding  their  way  on  the  other  side  of  the  glen  among 
the  rocks.  Instead,  however,  of  taking  the  side  of  the  opposite  steep  in 
a  right  line  with  the  descent,  as  they  ought  to  have  done,  they  had  fol- 
lowed the  downward  course  of  the  stream  in  seeking  for  an  easier  rise'j 
and  ilie\  wen  forced  to  halt  1"  fore  a  pile  of  impassable  rocks,  from  which 
houted  to  our  guide  tor  dire<  I 


THE    BARRANCA.  179 

When  I  again  caught  a  glimpse  of  the  half-breed,  his  head  was  rising 
and  sinking  with  the  motion  of  his  horse,  a  hundred  feet  below  me,  as 
he  slid  along  the  shelving  precipices  of  the  barranca.  Yet  there  was 
no  alternative  but  to  follow  him ;  and  as  my  horse  was  an  old  roadster 
in  the  tierra  caliente,  I  resolved  not  to  be  outdone,  and  so,  giving  him  his 
own  time  and  control  of  the  bridle,  I  trusted  to  his  sagacity,  and  put  him 
in  the  path.  Nor  had  I  occasion  to  regret  my  confidence  in  the  beast ; 
he  did  his  work  bravely,  feeling  his  path,  leaning  against  the  upper  sides 
of  the  dangerous  passes,  and  clambering  along  with  the  tenacity  of  a  fly 
and  the  activity  of  a  cat.  But  when  we  were  within  fifty  feet  of  the  bot- 
tom of  the  ravine,  a  sharp  turn  to  the  right  disclosed  to  me  an  almost 
headlong  wall  of  rock  for  the  remaining  distance,  into  which  steps  had 
been  cut  that  seemed  scarcely  passable  on  foot.  I  looked  about  me,  and 
found  there  was  room  to  dismount.  Although  I  had  great  confidence  in 
the  horse,  I  confess  to  more  in  my  own  feet ;  and  thus  scrambling  on 
ahead,  at  the  length  of  my  lasso,  I  led  the  animal  to  the  bottom  of  the 
dell,  through  which  ran  a  broad  and  rapid  stream  swollen  by  the  recent 
rains.  Here  I  found  the  guide  waiting  for  me.  We  plunged  in  at  once, 
and  partly  swimming  the  horses  and  partly  scrambling  over  the  huge 
stones  that  formed  the  bed  of  the  torrent,  we  attained  the  western  bank 
in  safety. 

Fairly  past  one  difficulty,  another  confronted  us  in  the  ascent  of  the  op- 
posite side,  which  seemed  steeper  and  more  craggy  than  the  other.  De- 
termined to  try  my  horse's  mettle,  I  now  continued  on  his  back,  and 
prepared  him  for  what  he  had  to  expect  by  leaping  a  stone-wall  at  the  foot 
of  the  declivity.  He  took  at  once  nimbly  to  the  crags,  sprang  after  the 
guide  from  rock  to  rock  and  ledge  to  ledge,  almost  at  a  run;  neither  laid 
his  ears  to  his  neck  for  a  moment,  nor  faltered  for  whip,  spur,  or  word  of 
encouragement ;  and,  in  half  the  time  occupied  in  the  descent,  placed  me 
on  the  top  of  the  plateau. 

But  our  companions  were  missing.  From  our  elevated  position,  we 
commanded  an  uninterrupted  view  over  the  levels  of  the  opposite  prairie, 
yet  they  were  neither  on  it,  nor  winding  down  the  sides  of  the  glen.  Mr. 
Black  soon  made  his  appearance,  and  followed  us  up  the  cliffs ;  but  he 
was  not  able  to  account  for  the  rest  of  the  party.  In  half  an  hour,  how- 
ever, they  appeared  near  a  mile  up  the  barranca  fording  the  river;  and 
as  it  was  evident  that  they  were  in  the  right  direction  and  saw  us,  we 
pushed  on.  Descending  another  fold  of  the  ravines,  and  again  crossing 
an  arm  of  the  same  stream,  and  zig-zagging  another  hill  to  its  summit,  we 
found  ourselves  at  last  on  the  table-land  without  the  interruption  of  more 
barrancas. 

Here  we  were  rejoined  by  some  of  the  party,  who  reported  one  of  the 
mules  to  be  broken  down.     The  other,  however,  soon  reached  us,  and  it 
was  sent  back  unladen,  for  the  carga  of  the  useless  beast  that  was  de- 
tained at  the  foot  of  the  last  declivity. 
12* 


180  MEXICO. 

In  half  an  hour  we  were  again  in  motion,  after  a  fruitless  effort  to  shoot 
a  young  buck  we  had  started  in  a  neighboring  corn-field.  The  sun  was 
now  intensely  hot,  and  from  its  influence  and  the  exercise  of  the  morn- 
ing, I  was  drenched  with  perspiration  ;  nor  was  it  disagreeable  to  find  the 
pores  of  the  skin  thus  relieved,  after  a  residence  of  eight  months  in  the 
Valley  of  Mexico,  where  the  sensation  is  scarcely  known. 

I  put  up  my  umbrella  to  screen  myself  as  much  as  possible  from  the 
direct  rays,  but  the  heat  was  reflected  as  scorchingly  from  the  naked 
plain  and  shrubless  hills.  Nevertheless,  wearied  by  the  fatigue  of  six 
hours  in  the  saddle  without  food,  I  soon  fell  into  a  doze,  which  lasted 
until  we  entered  the  bare  gorge  between  the  hills  through  which  com- 
mences the  ascent  to  the  ruined  pyramid. 

Here,  among  some  scanty  bushes  which  afforded  shade  and  shelter, 
we  dismounted  to  breakfast ;  but,  unluckily,  water  had  been  entirely 
forgotten  by  our  servants ;  there  was  not  a  drop  in  the  gourds  or  can- 
teens. Our  pic-nic  feast  of  sardines,  ham,  sausage,  and  corned-beef,  con- 
sequently but  added  to  a  parching  thirst,  which  there  was  no  hope  of 
allaying,  but  by  slow  draughts  of  claret  and  sherry  that  had  been  exposed 
for  hours  to  a  blazing  sun  on  the  backs  of  mules.  Nor  was  this  all. 
Scarcely  had  we  seated  ourselves,  when  clouds  of  black-flies  and  mosqui- 
tos  came  down  from  their  nests  among  the  ruins,  and  I  write  this  memo- 
rial of  them  with  hands  inflamed  by  their  inexorable  stings. 

In  a  bad  humor,  as  you  may  naturally  suppose,  for  antiquarian  re- 
searches, I  nevertheless  mounted  my  horse  as  soon  as  breakfast  was  over, 
and  ascended  the  hill  with  Pedro ;  while  my  companions,  who  had  less 
anxiety  about  such  matters,  laid  down  under  an  awning  of  serapes 
stretched  from  tree  to  tree,  to  finish  the  nap  that  had  been  interrupted 
at  half-past  three  in  the  morning. 


THE  RUINS  OF  THE  PYRAMID  OF  XOCHICALCO. 


At  the  distance  of  six  leagues  from  the  city  of  Cuernavaca  lies  a  cerro, 
three  hundred  feet  in  height,  which,  with  the  ruins  that  crown  it,  is  known 
by  the  name  of  Xochicalco,  or  "  the  Hill  of  Flowers."  The  base  of 
this  eminence  is  surrounded  by  the  very  distinct  remains  of  a  deep  and 
wide  ditch  ;  its  summit  is  attained  by  five  spiral  terraces ;  the  walls 
that  support  them  are  built  of  stone,  joined  by  cement,  and  are  still  quite 
perfect ;  and,  at  regular  distances,  as  if  to  buttress  these  terraces,  there 
are  remains  of  bulwarks  shaped  like  the  bastions  of  a  fortification.  The 
summit  of  the  hill  is  a  wide  esplanade,  on  the  eastern  side  of  which  are 
still  perceptible  three  truncated  cones,  resembling  the  tumuli  found  among 
manv  similar  ruins  in  Mexico.     On  the  other  sides  there  are  also  large 


RUINS  OK  XOCHICALCO. 


PYRAMID     OF     XOCHICALCO.  181 

heaps  of  loose  stones  of  irregular  shape,  which  seem  to  have  formed  por- 
tions of  similar  mounds  or  tumuli,  or,  perhaps,  parts  of  fortifications  in 
connection  with  the  wall  that  is  alleged  by  the  old  writers  to  have  sur- 
rounded the  base  of  the  pyramid,  but  of  which  I  could  discern  no  traces. 
The  stones  forming  parts  of  the  conical  remains,  have  evidently  been 
shaped  by  the  hand  of  art,  and  are  often  found  covered  with  an  exterior 
coat  of  mortar,  specimens  of  which  I  took  away  with  me  as  sharp  and 
perfect  as  the  day  it  was  laid  on  centuries  ago. 

Near  the  base  of  the  last  terrace,  on  which  the  pyramid  rises,  the  es- 
planade is  covered  with  trees  and  tangled  vines,  but  the  body  of  the  plat- 
form is  cultivated  as  a  corn-field.  We  found  the  Indian  owner  at  work 
in  it,  and  were  supplied  by  him  with  the  long-desired  comfort  of  a  gourd 
of  water.  He  pointed  out  to  us  the  way  to  the  summit  of  the  terrace 
through  the  thick  brambles;  and  rearing  our  horses  up  the  crumbling 
stones  of  the  wall,  we  stood  before  the  ruins  of  this  interesting  pyramid, 
the  remains  of  which,  left  by  the  neighboring  planters  after  they  had 
borne  away  enough  to  build  the  walls  of  their  haciendas,  now  lie  buried 
in  a  grove  of  palmettos,  bananas,  and  forest-trees,  apparently  the  growth 
of  many  hundred  years. 

Indeed,  this  pyramid  seems  to  have  been  (like  the  Forum  and  Collis- 
eum  at  Rome,)  the  quarry  for  all  the  builders  of  the  vicinity ;  and  Alzate, 
who  visited  it  as  far  back  as  1777,  relates,  that  not  more  than  twenty  years 
before,  the  Jive  terraces  of  which  it  consisted,  were  still  perfect;  and  that  on 
the  eastern  side  of  the  upper  platform  there  had  been  a  magnificent 
throne  carved  from  porphyry,  and  covered  with  hieroglyphics  of  the  most 
graceful  sculpture.  Soon  after  this  period,  however,  the  work  of  de- 
struction was  begun  by  a  certain  Estrada,  and  it  is  not  more  than  a  couple 
of  years  since  one  of  the  wealthiest  planters  of  the  neighborhood  ended 
the  line  of  spoilers  by  carrying  off  enormous  loads  of  the  squared  and 
sculptured  materials,  to  build  a  tank  in  a  barranca  to  bathe  his  cattle! 
All  that  now  remains  of  the  five  stories,  terraces,  or  bodies  of  the  pyra- 
mid, are  portions  of  the  first,  the  whole  of  which  is  of  dressed  porphyrytic 
rock,  covered  with  singular  figures  and  hieroglyphics  executed  in  a  skil- 
ful manner.  The  opposite  plate  presents  a  general  view  of  the  ruins  as 
seen  from  the  westward. 

The  basement  is  a  rectangular  building,  and  its  dimensions  on  the 
northern  front,  measured  above  the  plinth,  are  sixty-four  feet  in  length, 
by  fifty-eight  in  depth  on  the  western  front.  The  height  between  the 
plinth  and  frieze  is  nearly  ten  feet ;  the  breadth  of  the  frieze  is  three  feet 
and  a  half,  and  of  the  cornice  one  foot  and  five  inches.  I  placed  my 
compass  on  the  wall,  and  found  the  lines  of  the  edifice  to  correspond  ex- 
actly with  the  cardinal  points. 

The  western  front  is  quite  clear  of  bushes  and  fallen  stones,  and  we 
had  an  opportunity  to  examine  minutely  the  sculpture  of  the  northwest- 
ern corner,  which  is  very  accurately  delineated  by  Nebel*  in  the  sec- 
ond engraving. 

*  Viaje  pittoreco  y  Arqueologico  a  la  Republica  de  Mexico. 


182 


MEXICO. 


In  the  left-hand  corner  of  this  sculpture  will  be  perceived  the  head  of 
a  monstrous  beast,  whose  bearded  and  open  jaws  are  armed  with  sharp 
teeth,  from  between  which  protrudes  a  forked  tongue.  In  front  of  this  is 
a  crook  or  staff,  terminated  by  a  plume  of  feathers,  similar  to  that  of  the 
head-dress  of  the  figures  that  will  be  subsequently  described.  Beneath 
the  mouth  of  the  monster  is  a  square,  resembling  a  hieroglyph,  or  perhaps 
a  Chinese  letter ;  and  below  this  is  a  rabbit,  a  figure  which  will  be  no- 
ticed again  on  the  corner  stone  that  formed  part  of  the  base  of  the  second 
story,  as  well  as  on  the  frieze  of  the  first. 

Nothing  of  this  pyramid  remains  so  uninjured  as  the  northern  front; 
and  this,  with  the  exception  of  parts  of  the  frieze  and  cornice,  is  still  en- 
tire. I  present,  in  the  plate  marked  A,  a  copy  of  the  drawing  made  of 
it  by  Alzate  at  the  period  of  his  visit  in  1777. 

It  will  be  perceived,  that  although  the  figures  at  the  corners  somewhat 
resemble  those  already  described  on  the  western  front,  yet  the  lines  pro- 
ceeding from  the  mouths  of  the  monsters'  heads  fall  in  a  curve ;  and  it 
was  doubtless  from  these  that  the  story  repeated  by  Humboldt  originated, 
that  "  at  the  Pyramid  of  Xochicalco  there  were  representations  of  croco- 
diles spouting  water."  They  certainly  are  not  crocodiles,  but  more  prob- 
ably, some  fabulous  monsters  fashioned  from  the  imaginations  of  the  un- 
known builders,  or  compounded,  perhaps,  of  various  symbols  by  which 
they  represented  their  deities. 

On  the  frieze  are  constantly  repeated  the  figures  represented  by  Nebel 
in  the  following  drawings  : 


'at  -*■ 


t$ 


PYRAMID     OF     XOCHICALCO. 


183 


The  figures  in  both  of  these  bassi-relievi  are  seated  cross-legged; 
plumes  depend  from  a  cap  of  the  one,  and  from  an  odd  head-dress  of  the 
other ;  and  the  left  hand  of  the  figure  in  the  second  drawing  rests  upon 
an  ornament  or  symbol .  In  the  figure  of  the  first  drawing  the  right  hand 
is  placed  on  the  thigh ;  the  left  holds  a  sort  of  crooked  dagger,  and  a  cu- 
rious bandage,  not  unlike  a  pair  of  spectacles,  is  over  the  eyes.  Four 
symbols  cover  the  rest  of  the  square — a  rabbit,  a  figure  precisely  like 
the  letter  J,  another  like  the  letter  V,  on  its  side,  and  an  oval  in  which 
there  is  a  cross.  These  relievos,  as  T  before  observed,  run  round  the 
whole  of  the  remaining  frieze,  while  the  cornice  above  it  is  sculptured  with 
the  tasteful  ovals  represented  in  the  drawing  of  the  northwestern  angle. 

I  could  not  find  any  remains  of  color  on  the  sculpture,  which  is  gene- 
rally between  three  and  four  inches  deep.  I  have  represented  the  outlines 
of  the  stones  of  which  the  edifice  is  composed  in  the  design  of  the  north- 
western angle.  They  are  laid  upon  each  other  without  cement,  and  kept 
in  place  by  their  weight  alone  ;  and  as  the  sculpture  of  a  figure  is  seen 
to  run  frequently  over  several  of  them,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  bassi- 
relievi  were  cut  after  the  pyramid  had  been  erected. 

Some  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  immense  labor  with  which  this  build- 
ing was  constructed,  from  measurements  I  made  of  several  of  the  masses 
of  porphyry  that  compose  it.  The  whole  building  occupies  a  space  of 
three  thousand  seven  hundred  and  twelve  square  feet — the  middle  stone 
in  the  first  story  at  the  north  end,  is  seven  feet  eleven  inches  long,  and 
two  feet  nine  inches  broad  ;  the  stone  at  the  northeast  corner  on  the 
second  story,  represented  in  the  plate  as  bearing  the  figure  of  a  rabbit,  is 
five  feet  two  inches  loner   and  two  feet  six  inches  broad  ;  and  the  stone  at 


184  MEXICO. 

the  base  of  the  southwest  corner  is  two  feet  seven  inches  high,  five  feet 
long,  and  four  feet  seven  inches  broad. 

When  it  is  recollected  that  these  materials  were  not  found  in  the  neigh- 
borhood, but  were  brought  from  a  great  distance,  and  borne  up  a  hill, 
(more  than  three  hundred  feet  high,)  we  cannot  fail  to  be  struck  with  the 
industry,  toil  and  ingenuity  of  the  builders,  especially  as  the  use  of  beasts 
of  burden  was  at  that  time  unknown  in  Mexico.  Nor  was  this  edifice  on 
the  summit  the  only  portion  of  the  architect's  labor.  Huge  rocks  were 
brought  to  form  the  walls  supporting  the  terraces  that  surrounded  the  hill 
a  league  in  circumference,  and  the  whole  of  that  immense  mass  was 
cased  in  stone.  Beyond  these  terraces  again,  there  was  still  another 
immense  task  in  the  ditch,  of  even  greater  extent,  which  had  to  be  dug 
and  regularly  embanked  !  When  you  combine  all  these  difficulties  and 
all  their  labors,  I  think  you  will  agree  with  me,  that  there  are  but  few 
works,  not  of  essential  utility,  undertaken  in  the  present  age  by  civilized 
nations,  that  do  not  sink  into  insignificance  when  contrasted  with  the  hill 
of  Xochicalco,  from  whose  summit  towered  its  lofty  pyramid  of  sculptured 
porphyry. 

There  appears  to  be  no  doubt  that  a  flight  of  steps  rose  on  the  western 
front  from  the  commencement  of  the  terrace,  and  terminated  before  three 
portals,  the  remains  of  which  Nebel  alleges  he  discovered ;  but  since 
his  visit,  the  edifice  has  been  so  much  injured,  and  the  vegetation  has 
sprung  up  so  vigorously,  that  I  was  unable  to  perceive  any  indications  of 
the  apertures.  It  is  probable  that  these  led  to  the  intei'ior  of  the  Temple, 
whence  there  was  a  communication  with  the  subterranean  vaults  that 
have  been  explored  within  a  few  years  by  persons  acting  under  orders 
of  the  Government.  I  endeavored  to  examine  these  underground  apart- 
ments as  soon  as  I  found  the  opening  to  them,  at  the  foot  of  the  first 
terrace  on  the  northern  side  of  the  hill ;  but  the  guide  professed  igno- 
rance of  the  interior,  and  the  Indian  he  had  engaged  to  pilot  me  failed  in 
attending.  Indeed,  such  is  the  superstition  of  these  simple-minded  people, 
that  you  find  it  difficult  to  investigate  anything  in  which  their  services 
are  required,  among  the  relics  of  their  ancient  race.  They  believe  that 
the  mounds  and  caverns  are  haunted  by  the  spirits  of  their  ancestors — 
that  they  were  places  of  sepulture  or  holiness — and  few  have  the  hardi- 
hood to  assist  in  revealing  their  secrets. 

In  examining  various  works  on  the  subject  of  these  ruins,  the  best  notice 
I  have  found  of  them  is  the  account  of  a  visit  of  certain  gentlemen  in 
March,  1835,  by  order  of  the  Supreme  Government.*  In  making  a  com- 
plete examination,  both  of  the  pyramid  and  the  hill,  this  party  explored 
the  caverns  and  vaults. 

After  describing  their  course  through  various  dark  and  narrow  pas- 
sages, the  walls  of  which  were  covered  with  a  hard  and  varnished  gray 
cement,  that  preserved  its  lustre  in  a  remarkable  degree,  they  came  to 

*  Published  in  the  Revista  Mejicana  of  1835. 


PYRAMID    OF    XOCHICALCO.  185 

two  enormous  pillars,  or  rather  two  masses,  cleft  from  the  rock  of  which 
the  hill  is  composed,  affording  three  entrances,  between  them,  to  a  saloon 
near  ninety  feet  in  extent.  Above  them  was  a  cupola  of  regular  shape, 
supported  by  cut  stones  disposed  in  circles,  in  the  middle  of  which  was 
an  aperture  reaching  perhaps  to  the  summit  of  the  pyramid.  The  writer 
describes  the  stones  that  compose  the  cupola  as  "  diminishing  gradually 
in  size  as  they  rise  to  the  top.  and  forming  a  beautiful  mosaic."  It  is 
much  to  be  regretted  that  these  explorers  made  no  drawing  of  the  spot, 
as  it  would  be  most  interesting  to  see  the  outline  of  what  we  are  thus  led 
to  believe  is  a  regular  arch ;  and  it  is  equally  to  be  regretted,  that  the 
superstitions  of  the  Indians  and  the  fear  of  wild  beasts,  scorpions  and 
serpents,  that  are  said  to  fill  these  sombre  crypts,  prevent  a  more  ex- 
tended examination  of  the  interior  of  the  hill.  I  was  alone  deterred  by 
the  haste  of  my  companions,  from  delaying,  at  least  another  day,  and 
devoting  it  to  the  exploration  of  these  vaults. 

There  is  a  tradition  among  the  Indians,  related  by  Alzate,  that  when 
the  pyramid  still  numbered  its  five  stories,  there  was  on,  or  near,  the  hill 
of  Xochicalco,  an  enormous  stone  or  group,  representing  a  man  whose 
entrails  an  eagle  was  tearing ;  but  of  this  there  are  now  no  vestiges. 
Nebel  states,  that  there  was  undoubtedly  a  communication  from  the  inte- 
rior of  the  temple  to  the  vaults  below  ;  and,  founding  his  belief  on  Indian 
tradition  and  on  a  discovery  he  made  at  the  top  of  the  first  terrace,  he 
alleges,  that  an  aperture  extended  from  the  summit  of  the  pyramid  to  the 
crypt  we  have  described,  and  immediately  beneath  it  was  placed  an 
altar,  on  which  the  sun's  rays  fell  when  that  luminary  became  vertical. 
What  his  authorities  were  it  is  difficult  to  determine ;  but  I  imagine  the 
tale  to  be  quite  as  fanciful  as  many  other  portions  of  his  beautiful  work. 

This  gentleman  has  given  a  drawing  of  what  he  terms  the  "  Restora- 
tion of  the  Pyramid  of  Xochicalco/'  as  it  is  supposed  to  have  appeared 
when  its  terraces  were  all  complete ;  and  although  I  do  not  believe  he 
has  sufficient  authority  for  the  figures  with  which  he  adorned  the  upper 
stories  of  the  edifice,  I  have  adopted  his  ideas  generally  in  the  following 
drawing,  with  the  exception  of  adding  a  frieze  and  cornice  to  each  of  the 
stories,  as  will  be  seen,  also,  hereafter,  in  the  outlines  of  the  "  Pyramid 
of  Papantla." 


196 


MEXICO. 


RESTORATION     OF     THE      PYRAMID      OF      XOCHICALCO. 


Such,  in  all  probability — from  the  authority  of  unimpeachable  tradi- 
tions, and  the  remains  now  crumbling  to  ruins  and  overgrown  with  the 
forest  at  its  base — such,  was  the  Pyramid  of  Xochicalco,  when  it  first  rose 
aloft  covered  with  its  curious  symbols  of  mystic  rites,  and  received  from 
the  Indian  builders  its  dedication  to  the  gods,  or  to  the  glory  of  some 
sovereign  whose  bones  were  to  moulder  within.  Who  those  builders  and 
consecrators  were  no  one  can  tell.  There  is  no  tradition  of  them  or  of 
the  temple.  When  first  discovered,  no  one  knew  to  what  it  had  been 
devoted,  or  who  had  built  it.     It  had  outlasted  both  history  and  memory ! 

But  no  matter  who  built,  or  what  nation  used  it  as  temple  or  tomb, 
those  who  conceived  and  executed  it  were  persons  of  taste,  refinement  and 
civilization  ;  and  I  venture  to  assert,  that  no  one  who  examines  the  figures 
witli  which  it  is  covered,  can  fail  to  connect  the  designers  with  the  people 
who  dwelt  and  worshipped  in  the  palaces  and  temples  of  Uxmal  and 
Palenque. 

Fragmentary  fragment  as  this  pyramid  is,  it  may  still  be  deemed  in 
outline,  material,  carving,  design,  and  execution,  one  of  the  most  remark- 
able of  the  antiquities  of  America.  It  denotes,  besides,  an  ancient  civili- 
zation and  architectural  progress,  that  may  well  entitle  the  inhabitants  of 
our  Continent  to  the  character  of  an  Original  race.  On  the  other  hand, 
(for  those  who  are  fond  of  tracing  resemblances,  and  believe  that  whatever 
there  was  of  art,  science,  or  cultivation  among  the  aborigines,  came  from 
the  "old  world,")  there  is  much  in  the  shape,  proportions  and  sculptures 
of  this  pyramid,  to  connect  its  architects  with  the  Egyptians. 


CROSSING    A    RIVER.  187 

The  day  was  far  advanced,  when  I  stood  for  the  last  time  on  the  corner- 
stone of  the  upper  terrace  and  looked  at  the  beautiful  prospect  around  me. 
It  was  the  centre  of  a  mighty  plain.  Running  due  north  were  the  re- 
mains of  an  ancient  paved  road,  leading  over  prairie  and  barranca  to  the 
city,*  distinctly  visible  at  the  foot  of  the  Sierra  Madre — and,  all  around, 
at  the  distance  of  some  miles,  east,  west,  and  south,  rose  lofty  mountains, 
among  whose  valley-folds  nestled  the  white  walls  of  haciendas,  that  owed 
their  strength  and  massiveness  to  the  spoliation  of  the  very  ruins  on  which 
I  stood.  Palace,  temple,  tomb,  fortification,  whatever  it  was,  (and  to  all 
these  uses  has  it  been  appropriated  by  the  guessing  tribe  of  antiquarians,) 
the  Pyramid  of  Xochicalco  was  nobly  situated  in  its  day  and  generation, 
and  no  one  will  now  visit  its  crumbling  remains  without  a  better  opinion 
of  the  unfortunate  races,  who  were  pushed  aside  to  make  room  for  the 
growth  and  expansion  of  European  power. 


TETECALA. 


It  was  near  three  o'clock,  when  we  again  took  up  our  line  of  march 
under  a  burning  sun ;  and,  lingering  with  Pedro  until  after  my  compan- 
ions had  departed,  I  found,  on  reaching  the  bottom  of  the  hill,  that  they 
were  already  out  of  sight,  and  that  all  traces  of  them  were  lost  on  the 
path  among  the  trees  and  bushes.  I  shouted — but  there  was  no  an- 
swer. I  inquired  at  the  first  Indian  hut  I  passed,  but  no  travellers  had 
gone  that  way ;  and,  although  following  a  distinct  and  apparently  straight- 
forward road,  I  acknowledge  that  I  was  lost.  To  add  to  my  disquietude, 
I  had  forgotten  the  name  of  the  village  at. which  we  were  to  lodge.  It 
was  useless,  however,  to  sit  down  in  the  forest,  and  I  therefore  resolved 
to  push  onward  with  confidence  that  the  path  led  somewhere.  I  had  not 
gone  more  than  half  a  mile  when  I  came  up  with  another  straggler  of 
our  party — lost,  like  myself — and  we  trotted  along  side  by  side,  occa- 
sionally shouting  for  our  companions,  and  then  halting  a  moment  to  take 
breath  in  the  close  and  sultry  air,  filled  with  clouds  of  mosquitos  and 
flies  that  settled  on  our  hands  and  faces  as  soon  as  we  drew  our  bridles. 

Suddenly,  our  road  terminated, at  the  margin  of  a  wide  stream,  which 
was  swollen  over  its  banks  by  the  late  heavy  rains,  and  was  dashing  along 
with  the  rapidity  of  a  mill-race.  On  the  opposite  shore  the  road  again 
reappeared,  and  we  judged  that  this  was  of  course  the  ford. 

Pedro,  who  was  mounted  on  a  stout,  long-legged  animal,  was  sent  ahead, 
and  partly  swimming  his  animal  and  partly  wading,  he  reached  the  bank 
in  safety.  I  immediately  followed,  but  my  horse  was  both  short  limbed, 
and  weary  from  the  exertions  he  had  made  in  the  morning.  Scarcely  had 
the  water  risen  above  his  girth  when  he  was  off  his  legs.     I  kept  his  head 

*  Cuernavaca. 


188  MEXICO. 

toward  the  opposite  shore,  and  as  much  against  the  stream  as  possible ; 
but  with  all  his  efforts  he  could  make  no  headway,  and  was  swept  bodily 
down  by  the  current  toward  a  wreck  of  broken  trees  and  branches,  that 
bent  over  the  water  from  the  bank  we  had  quitted.  I  spurred,  whipped, 
encouraged  him,  without  avail.  He  made  another  effort ;  but  failing  in 
that,  kept  his  head  above  water  and  resigned  himself  to  the  tide.  I 
felt  my  situation  to  be  dangerous,  especially  as  I  was  rapidly  approach- 
ing the  long  and  sharp  branches,  by  which  I  knew  that  I  should  be  severely 
injured.  I  resolved,  therefore,  to  leap  off  and  swim  for  the  bank,  which 
was  not  more  than  a  dozen  paces  distant.  But,  at  that  moment,  Pedro 
galloped  down  to  the  point  opposite  which  I  was  drifting ;  and,  as  I  was 
about  executing  my  purpose,  I  saw  his  lasso,  flung  with  great  accu- 
racy, settle  around  my  animal's  head.  With  the  end  wound  round  his 
saddle-bow,  Pedro  stood  firmly  on  the  shore,  and,  in  a  minute,  the  action 
of  the  current  had  swung  my  horse  on  soundings.  Drenched  as  I  was, 
I  shall  ever  hereafter  feel  a  debt  of  gratitude  to  a  lasso — which  is  rarely 
felt  for  anything  in  the  shape  of  a  noose  ! 

My  companion  and  myself  continued  our  journey,  both  wet,  (for  he 
had  fared  not  much  better  than  myself,)  but  both  gratified  with  our 
drenching,  as  it  had  the  effect  of  a  bath,  while  the  evaporation  of  the  water 
from  our  soaking  clothes,  cooled  and  refreshed  us. 

Thus  through  valley  and  glade,  (rarely  meeting  an  Indian  or  passing 
one  of  their  miserable  houses,)  and  without  intelligence  of  our  party,  we 
pushed  onward  until  about  six  o'clock  in  the  evening,  when  we  reached 
a  wide  and  cultivated  plain,  traversed  by  a  considerable  stream,  resembling 
in  its  verdant  banks  and  soft  meadows  set  in  a  frame  of  lofty  mountains, 
the  scenery  about  the  sources  of  our  Potomac.  We  had  not  long  jour- 
nied  over  this  plain  before  we  passed  the  hacienda  of  Miacatlan.  At  a 
short  distance,  to  the  right  of  it,  appeared  the  village  of  Tetecala.  As 
soon  as  a  passing  Indian  mentioned  the  name,  we  recollected  it  to  be  that 
of  our  halting-place  for  the  night. 

We  speedily  passed  an  Indian  suburb,  buried,  as  usual  throughout  the 
tierra  caliente,  in  flowers  and  foliage,  among  which  lounged  the  idle  and 
contented  population.  Here  we  were  met  by  a  guide,  who  had  been  sent 
forward  by  our  courteous  entertainers,  and  we  were  soon  under  the  shelter 
of  their  friendly  roof. 

Our  horses  were  quickly  unsaddled  and  bounding  over  the  wide  corral ; 
and  refreshed  by  a  clean  suit  and  a  cigarrito,  I  had  strolled  over  the 
tasteful  village,  and  visited  the  market  and  the  church  (one  of  the  neatest 
I  have  seen,  especially  in  the  simple  and  true  taste  of  its  architecture, 
and  the  arrangement  of  the  altar  and  the  pulpits,)  before  our  companions 
made  their  appearance.  It  turned  out,  after  all,  that  they — not  we — had 
mistaken  the  road,  and  had  wandered  much  out  of  their  way  under  the 
direction  of  a  guide !     It  is  better  sometimes  to  have  none. 

In  addition  to  all  our  antiquarian  researches,  to-day  we  have  travelled 
nearly  fifteen  leagues,  and  although  I  have  earned  a  right  to  a  soft  pillow 


A    RANCHO.  189 

and  bed,  yet  as  there  are  none  of  these  comforts  in  the  house  for  me,  I 
wrap  myself  in  my  serape  on  the  hard  settee,  with  full  expectation  of  a 
night  of  sound  repose. 


21st  September — Wednesday.  We  left  Tetecala  rather  late  this  morn- 
ing, without  other  refreshments  than  a  cup  of  chocolate  and  a  biscuit,  as 
our  intention  was  to  stop  at  the  hacienda  of  Cocoyotla,  where  we  arrived 
about  11  o'clock. 

We  had  no  letter  of  introduction  to  Sefior  Sylva,  the  proprietor ;  but 
we  were,  nevertheless,  most  kindly  received  by  him.  He  requested  us  to 
dismount,  and  to  amuse  ourselves  by  inspecting  his  garden  and  orange* 
grove  while  he  ordered  breakfast. 

This  is  a  small,  but  one  of  the  most  beautiful  estates  in  the  tierra 
caliente.  A  handsome  chapel-tower  has  recently  been  added  to  the  old 
edifice ;  a  wing  on  broad  arches  has  been  given  to  the  dwelling,  and  the 
garden  is  kept  in  tasteful  order. 

Back  of  the  house  and  bordering  the  garden,  sweeps  along  a  sweet 
stream,  some  twenty  yards  in  width,  and,  by  canals  from  it,  the  grounds 
are  plentifully  supplied  with  water.  But  the  gem  of  Cocoyotla  is  the 
orangery.  It  is  not  only  a  grove,  but  a  miniature  forest,  interspersed 
with  broad-leaved  plaintains,  guyavas,  cocos,  palms,  and  mammeis.  It 
was  burthened  with  fruits ;  and  a  multitude  of  birds,  undisturbed  by  the 
sportsman,  have  made  their  abodes  among  the  shadowy  branches. 

We  sauntered  about  in  the  delicious  and  fragrant  shade  for  half  an 
hour,  while  the  gardener  supplied  us  with  the  finest  fruits.  We  were 
then  summoned  to  an  excellent  breakfast  of  several  courses,  garnished 
with  capital  wine. 

When  our  repast  was  Concluded,  Sefior  Sylva  conducted  us  over  his 
house ;  showed  us  the  interior  of  the  neat  church,  where  he  has  made 
pedestals  for  the  figures  of  various  saints  out  of  stalactites  from  some 
neighboring  cavern ;  and  finally  dismissed  us,  with  sacks  of  the  choicest 
fruit,  which  he  had  ordered  to  be  selected  from  his  grove. 


RANCHO  DE  MICHAPAS. 

P.  M.  Our  journey  from  this  hacienda  was  toward  the  Cave  of  Caca- 
huawamilpa,  which  we  propose  visiting  to-morrow,  and  we  have  reached, 
to-night,  the  rancho  of  Michapas. 

This  is  a  new  feature  in  our  travels.  Hitherto  we  have  been  guests 
at  haciendas  and  comfortable  town  dwellings,  but  to-night  we  are  lodged 
in  a  rancho — a  small  farmer's  dwelling — an  Indian  hut. 

We  arrived  about  five  o'clock,  after  a  warm  ride  over  wide  and  solitary 
moors,  with  a  back-ground  of  the  mountains  we  passed  yesterday.     In 


190  MEXICO. 

front  another  Sierra  stretches  along  the  horizon  ;  and  in  the  foreground 
of  the  picture,  a  lake,  near  a  mile  in  circuit,  spreads  out  its  silver  sheet 
in  the  sunset,  margined  with  wide-spreading  trees  and  covered  with  water- 
fowl. 

The  house  is  built  of  mud  and  reeds,  matted  together ;  that  is,  there 
are  four  walls  without  other  aperture  but  a  door,  while  a  thatch,  supported 
on  poles,  spreads  on  either  side  from  the  roof-tree,  forming  a  porch  in 
front.  This  thatch  is  not  allowed  to  touch  the  tops  of  the  walls,  but  be- 
tween them  and  it,  all  around  the  house,  a  space  of  five  or  six  feet  has 
been  left,  by  means  of  which  a  free  circulation  of  air  is  kept  up  within. 
The  interior  (of  one  room,)  is  in  perfect  keeping  with  this  aboriginal  sim- 
plicity. Along  the  western  wall  there  are  a  number  of  wretched  engra- 
vings of  saints,  with  inscriptions  and  verses  beneath  them  ;  next,  a  huge 
picture  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe,  with  tarnished  gilded  rays,  blazes 
in  the  centre  ;  and  near  the  corner  is  nailed  a  massive  cross,  with  the 
figure  of  our  Saviour  apparently  bleeding  at  every  pore.  A  reed  and 
spear  are  crossed  below  it,  and  large  wreaths  and  festoons  of  marigolds 
are  hung  around.  Six  tressels,  with  reeds  spread  over  them,  stand 
against  the  wall  ;  and  in  one  corner  a  dilapidated  canopy,  with  a  tattered 
curtain,  rears  its  pretentious  head  to  do  the  honors  of  state-bedstead. 
The  floor  is  of  earth,  and,  in  a  corner,  are  safely  stowed  our  saddles,  bridles, 
guns,  pistols,  holsters,  swords  and  spurs — so  that  taking  a  sidelong  glance 
at  the  whole  establishment,  you  might  well  doubt  whether  you  were  in  a 
stable,  church,  sleeping-room  or  chicken-coop  ! 

Don  Miguel  Benito — the  owner  and  proprietor  of  this  valuable  cata- 
logue of  domestic  comforts' — received  us  with  great  cordiality.  He  is  a 
man  some  fifty  years  of  age  ;  delights  in  a  shirt,  the  sleeves  of  which 
have  been  so  long  rolled  up,  that  there  is  no  longer  anything  to  roll  down  ; 
and  a  pair  of  those  elastic  leather-breeches  that  last  one's  life-time  in 
Mexico,  and  grow  to  any  size  that  may  be  required,  as  the  fortunate 
owner  happens  to  fatten  with  his  years.  Not  the  least  curious  part  of 
Don  Miguel's  household,  is  his  female  establishment.  He  appears  to  be  a 
sort  of  Grand  Turk,  as  not  less  than  a  dozen  women,  of  all  colors  and 
complexions,  hover  about  his  dwellings  ;  while  at  least  an  equal  number 
of  little  urchins,  with  light  hair  and  dark,  (but  all  with  an  extraordinary 
resemblance  to  the  Don,)  roll  over  the  mud  floors  of  the  neighboring  huts, 
or  amuse  themselves  by  kutfoirig  the  chickens. 

G ,  the  caterer  of  our  mess,  thought  it  but  a  due  compliment  to  Don 

Miguel  (who  docs  not  disdain  to  receive  your  money)  to  order  supper — 
though  we  resolved  to  tall  back  in  case  of  necessity  upon  our  own  stores, 
and  accordingly,  unpacked  some  pots  of  soup  and  sardines. 

In  the  course  of  an  hour,  a  hoard  was  spread  upon  four  slieks.  and  in 
the  middle  of  it  was  placed  a  massive  brown  earthen  platter,  with  the 
stew.  At  the  same  time,  a  .liny  copper  spoon  and  a  hot  tertillia  were 
laid  before  each  of  us.  Although  we  bad  determined  to  hold  ourselves 
in  res  there  was  but  little  left  of  the  savorj  mess. 


THE    ALCALDE.  191 

Our  turtle,  flanked  with  lemons  and  claret,  then  came  into  play  ;  and  the 
repast  was  ended  by  another  smoking  platter  of  the  universal  frijoles. 

Wild  and  primitive  as  was  the  scene  among  these  simple  Indians,  I 
have  seldom  passed  a  pleasanter  evening,  enlivened  with  song  and  wit. 
When  we  crept  to  our  reed  tressels  and  serapes,  at  eleven  o'clock,  I  found 
that  the  state-bed  was  already  occupied  by  a  smart-looking  fellow  from 
the  West  Coast,  (who  I  take  to  have  been  rather  deeply  engaged  in  the 
contraband)  and  his  young  wife — a  lively  looking  lass,  rather  whiter 
than  the  rest  of  the  brood — who  had  spruced  herself  up  on  our  arrival. 
Twelve  of  our  party  lodged  together  in  that  capacious  apartment,  while 
Don  Miguel  betook  himself,  with  the  rest  of  his  household,  to  mats  under 
the  porch. 

22nd  September.  It  rained  heavily  last  night,  but  the  morning,  as  usual, 
was  fresh,  clear  and  warm.  After  a  cup  of  chocolate,  we  sallied,  forth 
toward  the  Cave  of  Cacahuawamilpa,  having  previously  dispatched  our 
arricros  with  the  mules  to  Tetecala,  to  await  our  return  on  our  journey 
toward  Cuautla. 

Our  forces  this  morning  were  increased  by  the  addition  of  some  twelve 
or  thirteen  Indians,  who  had  been  engaged  by  Don  Miguel  to  accompany 
us  as  guides  to  the  cavern.  They  bore  with  them  the  rockets  and  torches 
which  were  to  be  burned  within,  and  a  large  quantity  of  twine  for  thrid- 
ding  the  labyrinth. 

Leaving  the  lake,  situated  on  the  very  edge  of  the  table-land,  we 
struck  down  a  deep  barranca,  at  the  bottom  of  which  our  horses  sunk 
nearly  to  their  girths  at  every  footstep,  in  an  oozy  marsh,  that  had  not 
been  improved  by  last  night's  rain.  But  passing  these  bogs,  we  ascended 
a  steep  line  of  hills,  whence  there  was  a  splendid  view  of  the  snow-cap- 
ped volcanoes  of  Puebla,  and  soon  reached  the  Indian  village  of  Totla- 
wahmilpa,  where  it  was  necessary  to  procure  a  "  license"  to  visit  the 
cavern,  or,  in  other  words,  where  the  authorities  extort  a  sum  of  money 
from  every  passenger,  under  the  plea  of  keeping  the  road  open,  and  the 
entrance  safe.  As  we  had  special  passports  from  the  Mexican  Govern- 
ment to  go  where  we  pleased  in  the  tierra  caliente,  I  thought  this  precaution 
unnecessary,,  but  our  Indians  refused  to  budge  a  peg  without  a  visit  to  the 
Alcalde ;  and  therefore,  while  some  of  the  party  entered  a  hut,  and  set 
the  women  to  cooking  tortillias,  others  proceeded  with  the  passports  to  the 
civic  authorities. 

We  found  the  Alcalde  to  be  a  stout  old  Indian,  in  bare  feet,  shirt  sleeves, 
skin  trowsers,  and  nearly  as  dark  as  an  African.  He  was  enjoying  his 
leisure  by  a  literary  conversation  with  the  schoolmaster,  who  was  his 
secretary,  and  the  two  were  discovered  in  the  midst  of  a  host  of  ragged 
boys  from  eight  to  sixteen  years  old,  seated  on  benches  and  learning  their 
letters.  , 

The  moment  we  appeared,  the  Alcalde  rose  to  receive  us  with  great 
t'y,  and  handing  the  passport  to  his  secretary,  he  listened  attentively 


192  MEXICO. 

while  he  heard  that  Mr. and  Mr. ,  of  the  Diplomatic  Corps, 

were  fully  authorized  by  the  Supreme  Government  to  travel  wheresoever 
they  pleased  without  let,  hindrance,  or  molestation  from  any  of  the 
good  citizens  of  the  Mexican  Republic.  When  the  secretary  had  con- 
cluded the  document,  and  the  Alcalde  had  looked  at  it— upside  down — 
and  they  had  examined  the  signature  of  Vieyra  and  Bocanegra,  and  ex- 
pressed themselves  perfectly  satisfied  of  their  genuineness,  they  retired 
to  a  corner  for  consultation. 

"  The  Senores,"  said  the  Alcalde,  turning  to  me,  "  wish  to  see  the  cav- 
ern, and  they  have  permission  from  the  Alcaldes  and  Chiefs  in  Mexico 
to  go  where  they  please ; — this  is  true ;  but  that  liberty  does  not  refer 
to  the  Cave  of  Cacahuawamilpa,  which  is  under  ground,  while  the  pass- 
port relates  only  to  what  is  above  !  The  Sefiores  must  have  a  license  from 
the  prefect  here,  and,  moreover,  they  must  pay  for  it." 

I  told  him  that  the  Diplomatic  Corps  never  paid  for  any  such  permis- 
sions. He  shrugged  his  shoulders  and  said  that  might  be,  and  no  doubt 
was  all  very  true  in  the  city  of  Mexico,  but  that  it  was  not  the  custom 
here  ;  "  los  diplomaticos  must  fare  like  other  people  and  pay  for  a  license." 

I  thought  of  Stephens  and  his  "  broad  seal ;"  and  I  produced  my  pass- 
port from  the  Department  of  State  with  the  coat  of  arms  of  the  United 
States,  and  the  signature  of  Mr.  Webster ;  but  it  was  all  Hebrew  to  the 
scribe  ;  the  eagle  was  not  the  Mexican  eagle,  and  "  Webastair,"  he  had 
never  heard  of.  He  shook  his  forefinger  from  right  to  left,  as  if  inti- 
mating that  it  was  all  a  humbug,  and  that  no  such  man  was  ever  known  in 
Mexico.  They  were  old  stagers  in  the  matters  of  fees,  and  strangers  did 
not  drop  down  on  such  visits  every  day  of  the  year ! 

While  this  by-scene  was  going  on,  the  school  exercises  were,  of  course, 
suspended,  and  the  pupils,  with  staring  eyes  and  gaping  mouths,  listened 
to  the  discussion.  At  length,  as  time  was  rapidly  passing,  the  Alcalde 
was  asked  hoio  much  he  wanted,  and  told  that  we  would  give  him  no  ex- 
travagant sum.  He  named,  I  believe,  ten  dollars  as  his  price,  but  we 
compromised  for  five — two  of  which  were  for  the  prefect,  two  for  himself, 
and  one  for  the  secretary.  As  I  was  anxious  to  get  the  autograph  of  so 
distinguished  a  functionary,  I  asked  him  for  a  written  license ;  but  he  re- 
plied  that  it  was  not  necessary.  "  You  may  go  now,"  said  he  ;  "  no  one 
will  molest  you ;"  and  turning  to  our  guide  :  "  The  Senores  are  muy  ca- 
balleros ;"  (which  may  be  translated,  "very  gentlemen")  "take  care  of 
them,  and  at  your  peril,  see  that  they  come  back  safely." 

The  secretary  made  a  bow — the  Alcald6  another — our  guide  led  the 
way,  and  we  rejoined  our  party  at  the  Indian  hut,  where  they  had  half  a 
dozen  women  baking  tortillias  as  fast  as  they  could  pat  them,  for  our 
breakfast  at  the  cave. 

We  lost  no  time,  but  mounting  at  once,  pushed  over  a  hill  or  two  until 
we  reached  a  small  path  leading  through  a  corn-field,  at  the  foot  of  which 
ran  a  clear  and  narrow  rivulet.  There  we  dismounted,  and  crossing  the 
hill,  the  mouth  of  the  cavern  was  pointed  out  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 


CAVE     OF     CACAHUAWAMILPA.  193 

glen,  half  way  up  the  mountain.  The  dell  was  filled  with  tangled  vines 
and  shrubbery,  growing  up  among  lofty  trees  that  sprung  amid  the  rocks 
and  debris  of  the  hill-side.  The  path  to  the  bottom  of  it  was  steep,  and 
so  covered  with  tall  grass  and  bushes  that  it  became  necessary  to  send  an 
Indian  with  a  machete  to  cut  a  path. 

On  reaching  the  stream  at  the  foot  of  the  opposite  side,  the  glen  was 
found  to  be  quite  as  tangled,  and  an  Indian  was  again  dispatched  to  clear 
the  way.  As  he  cut,  we  climbed  after  each  other,  slowly  and  painfully 
over  the  sharp  and  rugged  rocks.  When  near  the  top,  however,  and  in 
sight  of  the  entrance,  a  tall  shelf  of  rock,  slanting  at  a  sharp  angle  with 
the  hill,  opposed  itself  to  our  farther  progress.  It  was  about  four  yards 
wide — below  it  the  precipice  plunged  down  almost  perpendicularly  for 
two  hundred  feet,  while  there  was  nothing  to  grasp  but  the  bare  surface 
of  the  rock,  and  a  few  threads  of  vines  that  grew  from  the  fissures  of  the 
impending  cliff*.  A  ledge  of  about  three  inches  had  been  chipped  in  this 
rock,  along  which  it  was  necessary  to  pass.  The  barefooted  Indians 
crossed  as  nimbly  as  cats ;  and  those  of  our  party  who  wore  shoes  fol- 
lowed with  ease ;  but  I,  in  a  pair  of  water-proof,  thick-soled  boots,  and 
with  not  the  steadiest  head  over  steep  places,  found  the  transit  exceedingly 
difficult.  I  hung  on,  however,  by  the  vines,  and  succeeded  in  crossing 
in  a  very  lubberly  manner. 

The  Indian  women  with  our  tortillias,  and  the  detachment  we  had  dis- 
patched in  the  morning  with  our  cold  ham,  beef  and  sardines,  had  already 
arrived.  There  was  a  huge  rock  with  a  flat  surface,  upon  which  we 
spread  our  viands — fruit,  cocoanuts,  and  pines — and  made  as  picturesque 
a  breakfast  table  as  ever  was  longed  for  by  a  pic-nic  party  within  a  hun- 
dred miles  of  London. 


CAVERN  OF  CACAHUAWAMILPA. 

I  was  one  of  the  last  to  leave  the  entrance  of  the  cave,  which  hangs  in 
a  huge  arch  of  sixty  feet  span,  fringed  with  a  curtain  of  vines  and  trop- 
ical plants.  Our  party  preceded  me  for  some  distance  along  the  road 
that  descends  rapidly  for  the  first  hundred  yards.  Each  one  of  the 
guides,  Indians,  and  travellers,  carried  a  light;  and  when  I  saw  the 
swarthy  crew,  with  their  savage  features,  long  hair,  and  outlandish  dress, 
disappearing  gradually,  until  nothing  was  left  but  the  dot-like  glimmer  of 
their  torches  in  the  distance,  it  seemed  more  like  some  spectacle  of  witch- 
craft in  melodrama,  than  an  actual  scene  occurring  among  folks  on  earth. 
I  lit  my  torch  and  followed.  ♦ 

The  first  hundred  yards  brings  you  to  the  bottom  of  the  cavern,  and, 
if  not  warned  in  time,  you  are  likely  to  plunge  at  this  season  of  the  year, 
up  to  your  knees  in  the  water.  You  cross  a  small  lake,  and  immedi- 
13 


194  MEXICO. 

ately  before  you,  under  the  vast  Gothic  vault  of  the  cave,  rises  a  lofty 
stalagmite  pillar  with  a  fringe  falling  from  the  top  of  it,  formed  of  the 
brightest  foam,  congealed  in  a  moment.  A  mimic  pulpit  springs  from 
the  wall,  covered  with  elaborate  tracery, — and,  hard  by,  an  altar  is 
spread  with  the  fairest  napkins,  while,  above  it,  depends  a  crystal  curtain 
hanging  in  easy  folds,  each  one  of  which  flashes  back  the  light  of  your 
torch  as  if  carved  from  silver. 

We  fastened  the  end  of  our  twine  to  a  pillar  of  the  altar,  and  struck 
out  westwardly,  in  the  direction  of  the  cavern.  After  a  short  distance  we 
turned  slightly  to  the  south,  and  passing  down  a  pile  of  rocks  that  had 
fallen  from  the  roof,  entered  the  second  chamber. 

In  the  centre  of  this,  a  huge  stalagmite  has  been  formed.  We  called  it 
the  Tower  of  Babel.  It  is  a  lofty  mass,  two  hundred  feet  in  circum- 
ference, surrounded,  from  top  to  bottom,  by  rings  of  fountain-basins 
hanging  from  its  sides,  each  wider  than  the  other,  and  carved  by  the 
action  of  water  into  as  beautiful  shapes  as  if  cut  by  the  hand  of  a 
sculptor.  An  Indian  climbed  to  the  top  of  it,  and  firing  a  blue-light,  illu- 
minated the  whole  cavern.  By  the  bright,  unearthly  blaze,  every  nook 
and  corner  became  visible,  and  the  waters  and  carving  of  the  fountain- 
tower  stood  out  in  wonderful  relief. 

We  penetrated  to  the  third  chamber.  Here  there  was  no  centre  column, 
but  the  effect  was  produced  by  the  immensity  of  the  vault.  It  appears  as 
though  you  might  set  the  whole  of  St.  Peter's  beneath  it,  with  dome  and 
cross.  It  is  a  magnificent  cathedral ;  the  wall  sheeted  with  stalactites, 
and  the  floor  meandered  by  those  arabesque  troughs  of  pure  white,  and 
antique  pattern,  which  we  had  seen  at  the  Tower  of  Babel. 

An  Indian  fired  a  rocket,  which  exploded  as  it  struck  the  top  of  the  im- 
mense dome,  and  amid  the  falling  stars,  the  detonation  reverberated  from 
side  to  side  of  the  immense  vault  with  the  roar  of  a  cannonade.  A  sheet 
of  stalactite  was  struck,  and  it  sounded  with  the  clearness  of  a  bell.  Four 
Roman  candles  were  lighted  and  placed  on  rocks  midway  up  the  temple 
sides,  and  they  shed  a  faint  illumination,  like  the  twilight  stealing  through 
the  fretted  windows  of  an  old  cathedral . 

Beyond  this  chamber  was  a  narrow  path  between  the  almost  perpen- 
dicular rocks,  and,  as  we  passed,  the  guide  crept  through  an  entrance  near 
the  floor,  and  holding  his  torch  aloft,  (so  that  the  light  fell  as  from  an 
invisible  source,)  displayed  a  delicious  little  cave,  arched  with  snowy 
stalactites.  In  the  middle  rose  a  centre-table,  covered  with  its  fringed 
folds,  and  adorned  with  goblin  nicknacks.  It  was  the  boudoir  of  some 
gnome  or  coquettish  fairy  ! 

Two  rocks  standing  beyond  this  retreat,  are  the  portals  of  another  cham- 
ber, groined,  like  the  rest,  in  Gothic  arches  with  the  tracery  of  purest  sta- 
lactites, while  its  floor  is  paved  all  over  with  beautiful  little  globular 
stalagmites.     In  a  corner  fountain,  we  found  the  skeleton  head  of  a  serpent. 

The  path  beyond  this  is  nearly  blocked  up  by  immense  masses  that 
have  fallen  from  the  roof.     Passing  over  these,  you  attain  another  vaulted 


CAVE    OF    CACAHUAWAMILPA.  195 

cathedral,  bright  as  the  rest  with  flashing  stalactites,  while  its  floor  is 
covered  knee-deep  with  water.  The  dark  lake,  lit  up  by  the  blaze  of  a 
dozen  blue-lights  and  Roman  candles,  and  reflecting  the  flashing  walls 
of  the  cavern,  the  torches  of  the  party,  and  the  tribe  of  attendant  In- 
dians— would  have  made  a  picture  for  Martin. 

We  had  now  penetrated  nearly  five  thousand  feet  in  the  interior  of  the 
earth,  and  the  guides  said  that  the  chambers  were  still  innumerable  be- 
yond. Persons  have  slept  here  and  gone  on  the  next  day,  but  no  termi- 
nation has  yet  been  discovered.  Some  years  since,  in  exploring  beyond 
the  usual  limits,  a  party  of  travellers  discovered  the  skeleton  of  a  man ; 
his  bones  were  white  and  dry,  and  the  Indian  guides,  after  placing  them  in 
a  heap,  erected  a  cross  on  the  top  of  it,  with  which  they  consecrated  the 
whole  cavern  as  the  grave  of  the  unknown  dead.  Whether  he  was  a 
lost  traveller,  an  absconding  debtor,  a  suicidal  lover,  or  a  wretched  mur- 
derer seeking  concealment  from  vindictive  pursuers,  no  one  can  tell ! 

From  this  chamber  we  returned  to  the  entrance  by  the  clew  of  our 
twine.  I  scarcely  remember  anything  so  beautiful  as  the  view,  when  we 
caught  the  first  glimpse  of  daylight,  shining,  like  a  "  gray  dawn,"  through 
the  green  drapery  of  vines  that  mantled  the  mouth  of  the  cavern  and  re- 
flected on  the  lake-like  pool. 


We  returned  to  the  foot  of  the  hills,  where  we  found  our  servants  and 
horses,  and  refreshed  ourselves  from  the  fatigue  produced  by  the  incessant 
exercise  and  exertions  of  the  last  three  hours.  Retreating  through  the 
glen  to  Don  Miguel's  rancho,  and  paying  him  liberally  for  his  entertain- 
ment, we  bade  farewell  to  this  part  of  Mexico,  and  turned  our  faces 
eastward. 

We  were  obliged  to  return  to-night  to  the  village  of  Tetecala,  and  as 
the  afternoon  was  already  far  advanced,  we  obtained  a  guide  who  knew  a 
nearer  cut  over  the  mountain,  than  the  road  by  which  we  reached  the 
rancho  on  yesterday. 

Night  came  upon  us  before  we  had  half  finished  our  journey,  and  I 
know  no  more  of  the  road  from  actual  observation.  It  was  pitchy  dark, 
and  there  were  a  number  of  ravines  and  barrancas  to  pass ;  but  such 
is  the  unerring  sure-footedness  of  animals  of  Mexico,  that  I  reined  my 
horse  as  near  the  guide  as  I  could  conveniently  get,  and  followed  the 
lead  of  his  sagacious  mule.  From  the  manner  in  which  the  beasts  climbed 
and  slid  over  rocks,  in  the  utter  darkness,  I  have  no  doubt  that  the  path 
was  beset  with  many  perils.  After  passing  the  mountain,  we  had  to  swim 
a  river  near  thirty  yards  wide,  which  was  considerably  swollen  by  the  late 
rains,  so  that,  what  with  fatigue  and  danger,  I  was  glad  enough  to  reach  our 
destination  ;  where  the  first  salute  from  our  entertainers,  when  they  heard 
13* 


196  MEXICO. 

that  we  had  made  a  night-march  over  the  mountain,  was,  "  Thank  God, 
there  were  no  accidents  !" 

A  smoking  supper  was  soon  on  the  table,  and  although  our  worthy 
hosts  (who  had  not  made  a  journey  that  day  of  near  two  thousand  varas 
into  the  bowels  of  the  earth,)  were  exceedingly  anxious  to  prolong  the  chat 
after  our  cheerful  meal,  we  slipped  off,  one  by  one,  to  our  cots  and  sofas. 
We  have  travelled  seven  leagues  to-day,  besides  our  pedestrian  excursion 
in  the  cave. 


HACIENDA  OF  SAN  NICOLAS. 


23rd  September.  We  left  Tetecala  this  morning  at  eight  o'clock,  with 
the  intention  of  passing  to-night  at  the  hacienda  of  St.  Nicolas,  which 

belongs  to  the  Messrs.  J .     For  the  present  at  least  we  seem  to  have 

done  with  the  mountains,  as  our  road  to-day  lay  entirely  over  the  plain. 
During  the  three  last  days,  we  have  been  wandering  among  gigantic 
mountains  and  over  wild  moors,  where  the  solitude  of  nature  reigns  in 
all  its  majesty ;  but  the  picture  varies  in  the  direction  of  Cuatjtla.  The 
mountains  sink  into  the  plain,  and  the  plain  is  rich,  fertile,  and  cultivated 
with  the  nicest  economy. 

About  twelve  o'clock  we  saw  the  hacienda  lying  in  the  distance,  in  the 
lap  of  the  plain,  with  a  small  hill  or  two  hard  by,  just  large  enough  to 
vary  the  scenery.  As  we  approached  the  white  walled  buildings,  we 
could  not  help  remarking  the  uncommonly  neat  appearance  of  everything 
about  the  estate.  The  sugar-fields  were  in  capital  order,  the  roads  smooth, 
the  fences  had  been  put  up,  the  cattle  were  under  the  care  of  men.  The 
Indian  village,  inhabited  by  many  of  the  laborers  on  the  estate,  was  tidy 
and  comfortable,  and  there  was  a  cleanness  and  decency  in  the  appear- 
ance of  the  people,  that  I  had  not  seen  elsewhere.  Indeed,  the  whole  view 
of  this  plain,  hemmed  in  by  the  distant  summits  of  the  mountains,  reminded 
me  strongly  of  some  of  the  pictures  of  rural  beauty  constantly  presented 
to  the  traveller  in  New  England  ;  and  I  was  the  more  forcibly  struck  with 
this,  when  I  looked  from  the  corridor  of  the  hacienda  over  the  whole  ex- 
panse of  country,  and  saw  it  dotted  here  and  there  with  villages  and 
haciendas,  the  white  towers  of  whose  chapels  rose  up  beautifully  from  an 
unbroken  mass  of  verdure. 

We  were  received  at  this  plantation  by  the  administrador,  or  steward, 
who  had  been  expecting  us  for  an  hour  or  more ;  and  though  he  had  already 
partaken  of  his  dinner,  (believing  that  we  did  not  intend  visiting  St.  Nicolas 
to-day,)  he  immediately  ordered  another,  in  the  meantime  showing  us  to 
a  large  and  cool  apartment,  containing  a  number  of  beds,  where  we  made 
a  hasty  toilet. 

We  took  a  siesta  after  dinner,  and  then  walked  with  Don  A.  over  the 
estate.     The  whole  of  the  fields  are  planted  with  cane  for  a  great  dis- 


NATIVE     MUSICIANS.  197 

tance  around  the  house,  which  forms,  by  itself,  a  very  extensive  establish- 
ment. 

First,  there  is  the  dwelling,  a  large  two-story  edifice,  having  in  the 
basement  all  the  offices,  and  the  store  where  every  necessary  is  sold  to 
the  Indians ;  above  this  are  the  kitchens,  parlors,  bedrooms,  and  an  im- 
mense corridor  on  arches,  looking  toward  the  east,  filled  with  caged  birds, 
and  hung  with  hammocks,  where  the  family  pass  most  of  the  long  warm 
days  of  summer.  In  front  is  the  corral,  on  the  west  of  which  are  the 
store-houses  and  buildings  to  receive  the  crop ;  while  on  the  east  is  another 
huge  edifice  where  the  boilers,  engines,  crushing  machines,  cooling  vats, 
moulding  apartments,  &c,  constitute  the  trapiche  of  the  hacienda.  It  is 
a  little  city  in  itself. 

At  sunset,  all  the  Indians  employed  on  the  premises  assembled  under 
the  corridor  on  the  basement  floor,  to  account  to  the  administrador  for  their 
day's  labor  and  their  presence.  As  he  called  their  names,  each  one  re- 
plied with  "  Alabo  a  Dios," — "I  praise  God,"  and  ranged  himself  against 
the  wall  in  a  line  with  those  who  had  already  responded.  When  the  whole 
list  had  been  examined,  they  were  dismissed,  and  departed  in  a  body  sing- 
ing an  Indian  hymn  to  the  Virgin,  the  sounds  of  which  died  away  in  the 
distance  as  they  plodded  home  over  the  level  fields  to  their  village. 

At  night  we  heard  the  sound  of  a  clarionet,  bass-drum,  and  flute,  at 
some  distance  from  the  dwelling,  and  on  inquiry,  discovered  that  a  band 
of  musicians  had  been  organized  in  an  adjoining  village,  by  the  owner  of 
the  hacienda.  We  mustered  a  company  and  strolled  over.  The  whole 
of  a  large  hut  had  been  appropriated  for  a  musical  hall,  where  the  per- 
formers were  just  assembling;  while  others,  who  had  already  arrived, 
were  engaged  in  tuning  their  instruments.  The  leader  was  quite  a  re- 
spectable-looking Indian,  decently  dressed,  who  played  the  violin ;  the 
clarionet  player  was  fortunate  in  the  possession  of  cotton  drawers  and  a 
shirt ;  the  bassoon  had  a  pair  of  drawers  but  no  shirit ;  the  serpent  was 
the  wildest  looking  Indian  I  ever  saw,  with  long  dishevelled  black  hair, 
and  eyes  worthy  of  his  instrument ;  the  big  drum  was  a  huge  portly  old 
negro,  who  reminded  me  of  many  of  our  performers  on  it  at  home  ;  while 
the  octave  flute  was  an  urchin  of  not  more  than  twelve,  the  wickedest 
little  devil  imaginable,  but  a  fellow  of  infinite  talent  and  a  capital  per- 
former. 

The  night  was  rather  too  hot  to  permit  us  to  remain  long  in  the  apart- 
ment with  an  Indian  crowd ;  we  therefore  took  our  seats  outside,  where 
we  were  favored  by  the  self-taught  amateurs  with  several  airs  from  re- 
cent operas,  performed  in  a  style  that  would  not  have  injured  the  reputa- 
tion of  many  a  military  band  at  home. 

It  may  reasonably  be  argued,  from  a  scene  like  this,  that  the  Indians 
have  talents  for  one  of  the  arts  requiring  a  high  degree  of  natural  deli- 
cacy and  refinement.  If  it  had  been  the  care  of  all  Spanish  proprietors 
gradually  to  bring  forth  their  latent  dispositions,  as  the  Senores  J.  have 
done,  Mexico  would  now  present  a  picture  very  different  from  that  of  the 


198  MEXICO. 

degradation  which  fills  its  valleys  with  a  slothful,  ignorant,  and  debased 
multitude. 


When  we  returned  to  the  house,  we  found  that  some  travellers  who 
passed  in  the  course  of  the  day,  had  given  an  account  of  robbers  on  the 
road  we  are  to  travel  to-morrow.  About  two  weeks  since,  seven  armed 
and  mounted  ruffians  attacked  two  Frenchmen  and  their  servants  near 
the  hacienda  of  Trenta.  One  of  the  Frenchmen  was  severely  wounded, 
but  the  other,  aided  by  the  two  7iwsos,  succeeded  in  beating  off*  the  rob- 
bers, who  left  one  of  their  number  dead  on  the  field,  and  his  horse  and 
trappings  as  spoils  for  the  victor. 


CUAUTLA  DE  AMELPAS  AND  HACIENDA  DE  ST.  INEZ. 


24i/i  September.  We  left  the  hospitable  hacienda  of  San  Nicolas  at 
4  o'clock  this  morning,  and  passed  through  a  great  number  of  Indian 
villages,  and  some  haciendas  of  considerable  extent,  especially  that  of 
Trenta,  which  derives  its  name  from  the  fact  that  it  was  originally  pur- 
chased for  the  sum  of  thirty  dollars.  With  its  village,  its  church,  (nearly 
a  cathedral  in  size,)  its  immense  sugar  works  and  princely  domain,  I 
suppose  it  could  not  be  acquired  now  for  much  less  than  half  a  million. 

After  enjoying  a  fine  view  of  the  volcano  of  Popocatepetl  at  sunrise, 
and  passing  the  village  of  Tlaltisappan,  we  struck  into  the  mountain  gorges 
which  we  had  been  for  some  time  approaching.  The  ground  gradually 
rose,  the  glens  and  defiles  became  more  numerous,  and  among  the  wild 
and  tangled  forests  of  these  solitary  mountains  we  passed  many  ill  look- 
ing wretches,  armed  and  mounted,  but  always  in  too  small  a  number  to 
attack  our  party.  There  is  no  doubt  they  were  robbers,  as  several  had 
their  faces  partly  disguised,  while  their  weapons  were  cocked  and  resting 
in  their  hands  as  they  passed  us.  We  cocked  ours,  also,  and  thus  moved 
on  fairly  quits  with  the  vagabonds. 

On  the  sides  of  these  mountains,  there  were  continuous  groves  of  that 
tall  pillar-like  species  of  the  cactus,  which  is  called  "  organos." 

The  heat  became  insufferable  toward  noon,  and  I  felt,  for  the  first  time, 
weary  of  our  journey  among  the  lonely  hills  and  defiles.  Our  impa- 
tience to  reach  Cuautla  was  increased  by  the  accounts  of  the  Indians 
we  encountered  on  the  road,  who  invariably  added  a  league  or  half  league 
to  the  distance  as  we  advanced.  At  length,  however,  after  passing  through 
a  very  extensive  corn-field,  which  I  computed  to  contain  at  least  five  hun- 
dred acres,  we  reached  the  valley  of  Amilpas,  and,  in  half  an  hour  more, 
entered  an  Indian  village  bowered  in  the  foliage  of  bananas  and  palms, 
through  the  midst  of  which  ran  a  cool  and  sparkling  streamlet.     Here 


INNATCUAUTLA.  199 

we  halted  to  refresh  ourselves,  as  the  sun  was  blistering  our  skins  and  we 
burned  with  a  fever  that  was  scarcely  mitigated  by  profuse  perspiration. 
After  leaving  this  village,  Cuautla  appeared  immediately  on  our  left,  with 
a  rapid  river  running  by  it ;  while,  in  front,  was  the  stately  hacienda 
of  Cuauwistla,  belonging  to  the  Dominican  monks  of  Mexico,  from  the 
revenues  of  which  a  liberal  sum  is  annually  set  apart  for  the  entertain- 
ment of  travellers. 

By  some  accident,  the  chief  of  our  party  had  neglected  to  obtain  a 
letter  of  introduction  to  any  of  the  haciendas  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Cuautla,  and  we  expected  to  procure  comfortable  accommodations  at  the 
inn  of  the  town.  We  therefore  pressed  onward,  without  stopping  at 
Cuauwistla,  where,  I  had  no  doubt,  the  general  letter  of  introduction  with 
which  I  had  been  favored  by  the  Archbishop  of  the  United  States  to  all 
the  Church  in  Mexico,  would  have  procured  us  an  immediate  welcome. 

Cuautla  is  a  perfect  Southern  city.  The  houses  are  small  and  airy ; 
clear  water  gurgles  through  the  middle  of  the  street ;  broad-leaved  trees 
fling  their  branches  over  the  low  dwellings.  The  women  loll,  half-dressed, 
in  the  windows  and  doors,  gazing  at  nothing  or  each  other ;  the  men 
seem  to  have  as  little  to  do  as  the  women,  and  the  whole  has  an  air  of  the 
"  dolce  far  niente,"  which  pi'evails  in  this  mild  and  tempting  climate. 

Passing  through  the  square,  we  entered  a  bye-street  and  arrived  at  the 
door  of  the  meson. 

I  remembered  immediately  my  experience  at  Perote,  and  the  account 
given  by  Latrobe  of  Ms  experience  at  this  very  inn. 

The  gate  of  the  court-yard  was  thrown  open  for  us.  In  front  lay  a 
narrow  lane,  on  one  side  of  which  was  a  shed,  and  beneath  it  a  couple 
of  sheep  munching  a  stack  of  green  corn  in  a  corner,  while  a  couple  of 
turkeys  picked  up  what  they  could  find.  On  the  roof  a  lot  of  sheep- 
skins, recently  taken  from  the  animal,  were  spread  out  to  dry  in  the  sun. 
At  the  end  of  the  lane  was  the  kitchen  of  the  meson,  which  seemed  also 
to  be  the  cobbler's  stall  of  the  burly  landlord  ;  who,  tucking  up  his  apron 
in  front,  ran  out  to  salute  us  before  we  dismounted,  followed  by  his  stout 
wife,  and  a  greasy  scullion  as  fat,  dirty,  and  disgusting  as  Maritornes. 

We  inquired  if  he  could  "accommodate  us?"  "Si  Senores,  si  Se- 
nores !"  said  he,  with  a  strong  emphasis  on  the  si,  as  if  surprised  at  our 
even  doubting  for  an  instant  the  capabilities  of  his  establishment. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  we  now  numbered  twelve  in  the  party. 
We  asked  him  (still  without  dismounting)  to  show  us  the  rooms. 

From  the  end  of  the  lane  I  have  described,  another  struck  off  at  right- 
angles  with  it,  and  both  of  its  sides  were  adorned  with  a  row  of  one-story 
windowless  cabins,  over  the  doors  of  which  appeared,  in  true  hotel  fash- 
ion, the  numbers  1. — 2. — 3. — 4. — 5. — 6. 


200  MEXICO. 

G got  down  to  examine,  and  the  landlord  led  the  way.     He  first 

opened  No.  3.  It  was  eight  feet  long,  about  six  wide,  and  ten  high ;  in 
one  corner  lay  a  pool  of  mud  on  the  earthen  floor,  and  the  walls  were 

literally  black  with  fleas.     G at  once  objected  to  this,  and  the  landlord 

said  that  it  was  of  course  not  intended  for  the  Seilores,  but  for  the  baggage 
and  the  mosos.  He  had  "  another,  more  comfortable  "  for  ourselves ;  and 
stepping  across  the  street,  opened  No.  6,  which,  from  its  exterior,  appeared 
to  be  of  the  same  size  of  No.  3.  Scarcely  had  he  turned  the  bolt — when 
out  walked  a  full  grown  ass  ! 

But  our  discontent  did  not  satisfy  the  landlord — he  did  not  see  why  we 
could  not  be  "  accommodated  in  rooms  that  were  good  enough  for  other 
folks — and  we  might  praise  the  Virgin  if  we  got  better  in  Cuautla!'"' 

There  was  no  time  for  discussion,  however,  and  as  we  were  hungry, 
and  would  rather  betake  ourselves  to  the  fields  and  sleep  under  the  trees 
than  submit  to  the  vermin  of  Cuautla,  I  proposed  that  we  should  return 
to  Cuauwistla.  In  the  meantime,  however,  Don  Juan  Black  had  be- 
thought him  of  all  his  friends  in  the  village,  and  discovered  that  the 
administrador  of  Santa  Inez,  was  an  old  acquaintance  who  had  often 
requested  a  visit  in  his  journeys  to  the  tierra  caliente. 

It  is  true  that  we  made  a  formidable  party,  with  horses  and  mules,  be- 
sides our  own  ravenous  appetites  ;  but  Black  insisted  that  he  knew  the 
people  of  the  country,  and  that  we  would  undoubtedly  be  welcome  at  the 
neighboring  plantation. 

He  was,  therefore,  at  once  put  at  the  head  of  the  troop ;  and  we 
marched  out  of  the  court-yard  under  a  shower  of  abuse  from  the  cob- 
bling host — as  a  set  of  "  caprichosos  Ingleses,  who  deserved  to  rot  on  the 
road-side."  His  spouse  and  Maritornes  fell  into  their  parts  of  the  denun- 
ciatory trio,  as  the  hoof  of  the  last  horse  struck  his  abominable  gate-sill. 


The  hacienda  of  Santa  Inez  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  sugar-fields  to 
the  north  of  the  town,  and  the  works,  residence,  chapel,  and  Indian  vil- 
lage, are  bordered  by  a  beautiful  stream  among  some  of  the  finest  forest 
trees  I  have  seen  in  the  Republic.  I  shall  never  forget  the  kind  reception 
of  Don  Filipe  Vargas  ; — it  was  that  of  a  tried  old  friend.  Ample  accom- 
modations and  beds  were  offered  us ;  a  meal  (which,  in  apologizing  for, 
he  called  a  "  penetencia,")  was  quickly  spread  on  snowy  damask,  served 
with  a  fine  display  of  silver  and  excellent  claret ;  and  the  whole  was  sea- 
soned with  a  welcome  that  will  mark  Don  Filipe  in  my  memory,  as  a 
man  to  be  trusted  in  times  of  difficulty. 


r 
It  was  Saturday  evening,  and  after  a  walk  in  the  charming  groves  that 
border  the  brook  and  Indian  village,  from  which  there  was  a  noble  pros- 


INDIAN    DEGRADATION.  201 

pect  of  the  whole  of  Popocatepetl,  with  the  sunset  tinging  its  snows,  we 
returned  to  the  hacienda  and  took  seats  in  the  lower  court,  near  the  office 
where  the  clerk  of  the  administrador  was  paying  off  the  hands  for  their 
week's  work.  Here  chocolate  was  handed  us,  served  in  the  same  tasteful 
style  as  our  dinner. 

The  hands  were  all  mustered,  and  came  up  with  the  usual  "  Alabo  a 
Dios !"  to  receive  their  weekly  wages,  as  on  last  evening  at  San 
Nicolas. 

Don  Filipe  informs  me,  that  all  the  ordinary  expenses  of  this  estate  are 
$500  per  week;  but  during  the  working  season  they  rise  frequently  to 
$  1200.  Three  hundred  laborers  are  usually  employed  at  two  and  a  half 
to  three  reals  a  day,  and  the  total  production  of  the  hacienda  is  about 
40,000  loaves  annually — the  loaves  averaging  twenty-three  pounds — or, 
in  all,  920,000  pounds  of  refined  sugar.  Here,  as  elsewhere,  the  mo- 
lasses nearly  pays  the  expenses. 

He  complains  greatly  of  the  worthlessness  of  the  Indians,  and  expresses 
hopes  of  improvement  from  the  establishment  of  schools  in  Cuautla,  where 
the  young  children  learn  rapidly,  if  they  are  allowed  by  their  intemperate 
and  gambling  parents  to  continue  in  their  classes.  He  alleges,  that  the 
greatest  punishment  for  the  Indians  is  to  discharge  and  expel  them  entirely 
from  the  estate  upon  which  they  and  their  ancestors,  from  time  immemo- 
rial, have  worked  ;  but  he  intimates  that  other  punishments  are  resorted 
to  for  trifling  faults  and  excesses,  and  I  doubt  not  the  whip  is  made  to  play 
an  important  part  in  the  discipline  of  Mexican  plantations. 

Mr.  Stephens,  in  his  last  work  on  Yucatan,  gives  a  scene  of  this  sort 
which  he  witnessed.  "Looking  into  the  corridor,"  he  says,  "we  saw  the 
poor  Indian  on  his  knees  on  the  pavement,  with  his  arms  clasped  around 
the  knees  of  another  Indian,  so  as  to  present  his  back  fairly  to  the  lash. 
At  every  blow  he  rose  on  one  knee,  and  sent  forth  a  piercing  cry.  He 
seemed  struggling  to  retain  it,  but  it  burst  forth  in  spite  of  all  his  efforts. 
His  whole  bearing  showed  the  subdued  character  of  the  present  Indians, 
and  with  the  last  stripe  the  expression  of  his  face  seemed  that  of  thank- 
fulness for  not  getting  more.  Without  uttering  a  word,  he  crept  to  the 
major  domo,  took  his  hand,  kissed  it,  and  walked  away.  No  sense  of 
degradation  crossed  his  mind.  Indeed,  so  humbled  is  this  once  fierce 
people,  that  they  have  a  proverb  of  their  own :  '  Los  Indios  no  oigan  sino 
por  las  nalgas' — the  Indians  only  hear  through  their  backs." 

In  what  then  is  this  Indian  population,  throughout  the  planting,  farming 
and  mining  districts,  equal  to  our  slaves  ?  Although  not  hereditary  prop- 
erty by  law,  they  are  hereditary  by  custom,  and  the  force  of  those  circum- 
stances which  deny  them  the  opportunity  of  bettering  their  condition,  either 
by  emigration  to  foreign  countries,  or  by  diffusing  themselves  over  their 
own.  They  form  a  degraded  caste.  They  are  subjected  to  the  control 
of  masters  and  overseers,  and  although  it  is  true  that  they  are  regularly 
paid  for  their  labor  and  habitual  degradation,  yet  they  are  ignorant,  gam- 
bling, intemperate,  and  liable  at  any  moment  to  be  submitted  to  the  lash, 


202  MEXICO. 

against  which,  they  have  not  the  courage  to  offer  the  slightest  resist- 
ance. With  all  the  boast,  therefore,  of  the  authorities  of  Mexico,  that  no 
man  is  held  in  bondage  within  its  limits,  I  still  think  that  no  candid  person 
can  inspect  the  condition  of  these  laborers,  without  giving  the  palm  to  our 
negroes, — and  exclaiming,  indignantly,  at  the  masked  slavery  which  is 
carried  on  from  year  to  year,  without  the  slightest  prospect  of  ameliorating 
the  character  or  condition  of  the  miserable  natives. 

If  a  man  become  slave  by  descent,  under  the  well-established  laws 
of  a  nation  by  which  the  institution  is  recognized,  he  has  always  a 
master,  whose  duty  it  is  to  afford  him  food,  raiment  and  protection,  in 
recompense  for  his  toil ;  and  although  moralists  may  say  that  slavery  is  in 
its  very  nature  deteriorating,  yet  it  does  not  crush  the  very  spirit  from  the 
negro,  or  tend  always  to  his  debasement.  He  is  sober ;  he  cares  for  his 
family  ;  he  feels  the  duties  of  the  social  relations,  even  in  his  "  quarter  ;" 
and  is  ambitious  of  the  degree  of  respectability  he  may  acquire  among  his 
fellow  slaves.  His  condition  must,  therefore,  both  physically  and  intellec- 
tually, be  superior  to  that  of  the  Indian  who  becomes  a  slave,  in  spite 
of  the  law,  by  the  servility  of  his  character  and  the  loathsome  vices  that 
absorb  his  earnings,  without  a  care  for  the  comfort  of  his  family,  the  edu- 
cation of  his  children,  or  even  the  personal  appearance  he  presents  among 
his  fellows. 

When  we  remember  the  degree  of  civilization  that  had  been  attained 
by  these  races,  anterior  to  the  Mexican  conquest,  it  is  impossible  to  believe 
that  their  present  debasement  is  to  be  alone  attributed  to  an  enervating 
climate  ;  nor  can  Mexico  ever  claim  a  high  standing  among  nations,  until 
she  blots  this  stain  of  hypocritical  freedom  from  the  fairest  portions  of  her 
territory.  With  the  improvement  of  the  lot  and  character  of  her  Indians, 
(who  number  near  four  millions  of  the  seven  that  compose  her  whole  popu- 
lation,) the  steady  advancement  of  the  nation  will  proceed;  but  until  that 
occurs,  her  fondest  admirers  can  have  but  little  hope,  either  for  her  pro- 
gress or  even  for  her  continuance  as  a  nation. 


***** 
***** 


Sefior  Vargas,  with  true  Mexican  hospitality,  had  an  excellent  supper 
prepared  for  us  at  nine  o'clock  ;  but  I  was  too  much  fatigued  to  partake 
of  it,  and  retired  to  most  comfortable  quarters,  having  a  bed  entirely  to 
myself,  which  I  mention  as  a  luxury. 


TOWN    OF    CUAUTLA,  203 


CUAUTLA. 


25th  September.  The  next  morning  was  Sunday.  We  arose  early  and 
went  to  the  town  of  Cuautla,  passing  great  numbers  of  Indians  with  half- 
shaved  heads,  on  their  way  to  the  Sunday  market,  where  they  usually 
assemble  in  the  Plaza  to  purchase  and  sell  their  commodities.  As  we 
reached  the  town,  the  bells  were  ringing  for  mass,  and  we  strolled  into  sev- 
eral of  the  churches.  One  of  them  was  being  repaired,  and  the  altars  were 
filled  with  skulls  and  bones  that  had  been  taken  up  while  the  floor  was 
undergoing  the  requisite  renovation.  In  the  parroquia  or  parish  church, 
the  stench  from  the  dead  bodies  beneath  the  rough  boards  over  which  we 
trod,  was  so  abominable  that  I  hastened  out  of  it,  without  examining  some 
figures  of  Saints  and  Apostles  done  up  in  dresses  that  resembled  very 
much  the  antique  uniforms  of  the  eighteenth  century.  Such  anachronisms 
however  are  of  frequent  occurrence,  and  I  have  before  alluded  to  them, 
in  the  instance  where  even  our  Saviour  was  represented  in  one  of  the 
most  splendid  churches  of  Mexico,  in  a  blue  velvet  robe  and  a  Guyaquil 
sombrero  ! 

In  the  square,  there  were  hundreds  of  Indians  under  cane  booths,  on 
mats  spread  with  fruits,  skins,  rebosos,  serapes,  ices,  orgeats,  lemonade, 
vegetables,  flowers,  and  all  the  varied  products  of  the  tierra  caliente. 
I  stepped  into  one  and  breakfasted  on  oranges,  sponge  cake  and  iced  milk. 
The  stores  around  the  square  were  all  open,  and  indeed  I  saw  no  cessa- 
tion of  the  usual  week-day  occupations,  except  among  the  Indians,  who 
thronged  the  Plaza.  The  women,  as  on  yesterday,  lolled  in  the  broad 
window-sills  ;  the  men  lolled  opposite  them,  or  leaned  against  the  walls 
in  the  shade — and  the  excessive  heat  seemed  to  have  predisposed  every 
one,  before  ten  o'clock,  to  a  doze  or  a  siesta. 

In  one  of  the  stores  (while  Don  Juan  was  bargaining  for  a  horse,)  the 
owner  showed  me  a  centipede  of  the  tierra  caliente,  a  horrible  reptile  of  the 
scorpion  kind,  with  which  he  says  the  old  houses  of  Cuautla  are  infested. 
These  and  the  alacranes  (a  sort  of  cross  of  the  spider  on  the  scorpion,)  are 
the  scourges  of  the  warm  country,  and  the  bite  of  both  frequently  results 
in  the  extreme  illness  of  adults,  and  the  death  of  children. 

As  we  were  leaving  the  square,  we  met  the  cobbler  landlord  of  the 
Cuautla  inn.  He  was  stumping  along,  with  his  apron  rolled  up,  as  on 
yesterday  ; — he  bit  his  lip  and  shook  his  head,  as  much  as  to  say,  "  Let.  me 
ever  catch  you  out  on  the  hills,  alone,  old  fellows  !" 


We  returned  to  the  hacienda  of  St.  Inez  about  noon,  where  a  sump- 
tuous breakfast  awaited  us.     After  partaking  of  it,  and  bidding  a  most 


204  MEXICO. 

reluctant  farewell  to  our  kind  entertainer,  we  mounted  and  turned  our 
faces  northward,  toward  our  home. 

A  wide  plain  skirts  the  foot  of  the  sierra  that  hems  in  the  Valley  of 
Mexico,  and  runs  from  the  valley  of  Cuautla  into  that  of  Puebla.  Over 
it  lay  our  road  this  afternoon,  and  after  passing  one  of  those  strange  and 
deep  barrancas,  down  which  plunged  a  cascade  of  clear  water  for  some 
two  hundred  feet,  we  commenced  the  ascent  of  the  range  of  mountains 
forming  the  last  barrier  between  us  and  the  Capital. 

Scarcely  had  we  mounted  the  hills,  when  it  began  to  rain,  for  the  first 
time  during  the  day  since  we  left  Cuernavaca,  and  I  experienced  imme- 
diately a  remarkable  change  in  the  temperature,  from  the  scorching  heat 
in  the  square  of  Cuautla.  Our  serapes  were  at  once  put  on,  and  we  wore 
them  for  the  rest  of  the  evening. 

Santa  Inez  is  on  the  limit  of  the  tierra  caliente  ; — at  five  or  six  miles 
distance  the  culture  of  the  sugar  cane  ceases,  and  the  tierra  tcmplada 
commences. 

We  passed  the  beautiful  Indian  village  of  Acaclauca,  with  its  green 
leaves,  chapels,  and  churches,  in  front  of  one  of  which  I  saw  the  last  tall- 
group  of  palm-trees,  standing  out  with  their  feathery  branches  relieved 
against  the  snow  of  Popocatepetl.  It  was  a  strange  picture,  mingling  in 
one  frame  the  tropic  and  the  pole. 

Near  eight  o'clock  the  distant  barking  of  dogs  announced  our  approach 
to  the  village  where  we  designed  resting  until  morning.  Small  fires 
were  lighted  before  each  door,  and  by  their  light  we  meandered  through 
half  a  dozen  crooked  and  hilly  streets  before  we  reached  the  house  of  the 
worthy  Don  Juan  Gonzales,  (an  old  friend  of  the  Consul,)  who,  at  a  mo- 
ment's notice,  received  us  under  his  hospitable  roof. 

Don  Juan  is  a  man  "  well  to  do"  in  the  world  of  his  little  village  ; — he 
keeps  store,  rents  a  room  to  a  club  of  village  folks,  who  like  a  drop  of 
aguardiente  or  a  quiet  game  of  monti  ;  and,  above  all,  has  the  loveliest 
girl  in  the  tierra  templada  for  a  daughter. 

Don  Juan  ushered  us  ceremoniously  into  his  long,  low,  back  parlor. 
In  one  corner  stood  a  picture  of  the  Virgin  with  a  lamp  burning  before  it, 
while  opposite  was  a  table  around  which  were  gathered  five  of  the  neigh- 
bors in  shirt  sleeves,  slouched  hats,  and  beards  of  a  week's  growth,  busy 
with  a  game  of  greasy  cards,  in  the  light  of  a  dim  "tallow."  Ever  and 
anon,  the  little  sylph  of  a  daughter  brought  in  the  liquor  for  the  boors. 
It  was  Tilania  and  Bottom — Ariel  and  the  Clown ; — and  I  longed  for  the 
pencil  of  Caravaggio  to  sketch  the  gamblers,  or  of  Retzsch  to  embody  the 
whole  spirit  of  the  scene. 

After  a  frugal  supper  of  tortillias  and  chocolate,  we  retired  to  feather 
beds  and  clean  sheets  on  the  floor, — but  I  was  glad  when  we  were  called 
to  horse  at  three  in  the  morning.  It  had  been  a  night  of  sore  encounter ; 
an  army  of  fleas  attacked  us,  the  moment  we  retired,  with  a  vigor  and 
earnestness  that  did  justice  both  to  their  appetite  and  our  blood. 


INN    AT    TENANGO.  205 


AYOTLA. 

26th  September.  We  were  off  at  half-past  three,  by  the  moonlight  of  a 
cold  and  frosty  morning,  and  at  the  first  streak  of  day  found  that  we  were 
winding  high  up  the  spur  of  hills  that  juts  out  from  the  sides  of  Popoca- 
tepetl, which  was  in  full  view,  with  the  clouds  rolling  off  from  its  lofty 
head  as  the  sun  rose. 

Behind  us,  for  near  twenty  leagues,  the  tierra  caliente  extended  dis- 
tinctly until  the  view  was  bounded  by  a  bold  and  craggy  sierra.  We 
wound  upward  through  the  hill  farms,  hanging  against  the  sides  of  the 
mountains,  and  among  the  pine  forests,  through  whose  branches  a  cold 
autumn  wind  was  whistling.  The  road  was  lined  with  crosses,  many 
of  them  recently  erected,  and  hung  with  garlands  and  flowers ; — it  is  a 
dangerous  pass  and  infested  by  hordes  of  robbers,  who  attack  the  travel- 
lers either  passing  from  Cuautla  to  the  Valley  of  Mexico  or  returning 
with  the  proceeds  of  their  sales. 

Beyond  the  village  of  Hoochietipec  we  lost  sight  both  of  the  plain  of 
Cuautla  and  the  tierra  caliente,  and  soon  afterward  the  Valley  of  Mexico 
appeared  to  the  west. 

At  Tenango  we  stopped  for  breakfast  and  to  wait  for  Pedro,  who  had 
been  missing  for  the  last  two  hours,  having  lingered  behind  with  a  lame 
horse. 

Our  inn  was  a  small  rat  hole  of  a  meson  for  muleteers,  with  a  corral  of 
a  couple  of  acres ;  but  the  whole  establishment  bore  the  sounding  name 
of  the  "  Purissima  Sangre  de  Christof" 

We  found,  to  our  sorrow,  that  we  were  no  longer  in  the  land  of  rich 
haciendas  and  hospitable  administradors.  The  old  song  of  "no  hai !" 
had  recommenced.  Tortillias,  chile,  molle,  pan,  pulque,  agua  ? — "  no 
hai."  With  a  little  coaxing,  however,  we  got  one  of  the  women  of  the 
house  to  seek  out  the  remnant  of  corn  from  their  breakfast,  which  was 
soon  ground  into  tortillias.  As  we  were  beginning  to  devour  them,  Don 
Juan  espied  an  Indian  bearing  a  couple  of  earthen  jugs  of  milk,  with 
one  of  which  and  our  leathery  cakes,  we  managed  to  stay  our  stomachs 
till  dinner.  Pedro  had  not  yet  come  up  with  us,  and  as  it  was  decided 
to  wait  for  him,  I  laid  down  on  a  rock  at  the  door  of  the  meson  and  slept 
soundly. 

After  an  hour's  delay,  during  which  the  servant  did  not  appear,  and 
presuming  that  he  might  have  passed  by  some  other  road  (as  he  was  well 
acquainted  with  this  part  of  the  country,)  we  again  mounted,  and  descend- 
ing by  a  series  of  inclined  planes,  speedily  reached  the  level  of  the  plain 
of  Mexico. 

This  valley  is  exceedingly  different  from  the  tierra  caliente.  Although 
the  temperature  is  milder,  yet  everything  is  dry,  parched,  withered  and 
volcanic.     The  hill-sides  and  .mountains  are  stripped  of  their  forests — the 


206  MEXICO. 

fields  are  arid — the  grain  small  and  unproductive — and  the  whole  has  a 
waste  and  moor-like  appearance.  The  Indians  seem  even  dirtier,  if  pos- 
sible, than  those  we  have  left  behind  us,  and  the  patient,  mules  travel  over 
the  long  and  dreary  sands  as  if  in  a  new  Arabia. 

Passing  through  several  mud-walled  villages,  we  came  at  length  upon 
the  Vera  Cruz  road  and  reached  the  town  of  Ayotla,  seven  leagues  from 
Mexico,  about  four  in  the  afternoon.  Here  we  found  Pedro  waiting  for 
us  at  the  door  of  the  inn,  having  passed  through  the  village  of  Tenango 
while  we  were  enjoying  our  tortillias  and  milk  within  doors. 


We  rest  here  during  part  of  to-night,  and  to-morrow  at  daylight  we 
intend  to  reach  home,  after  a  journey  of  just  three  hundred  miles  on 
horseback,  without  robbery,  accident  or  illness. 

There  are  no  beds  for  us  to-night,  so  I  shall  stretch  myself  on  the  floor 
with  my  saddle-bags  for  a  pillow.  How  relative  are  all  our  comforts, 
or  ideas  of  comfort !  If  a  man  is  really  hungry  he  can  eat  unbuttered 
bread.  If  a  man  is  really  sleepy  he  can  repose  on  a  floor,  and  the  hard- 
ness of  the  planks  will  never  wake  him.  We  begin  life  by  finding  noth- 
ing soft  enough  but  our  mother's  bosom — we  go  on  to  the  cradle — we  rise 
to  the  crib — we  aspire  to  the  cot — and,  at  last,  arrive  at  the  dignity  of  a 
French  bedstead  with  mattress  and  tambour !  We  think  we  never  can 
sleep  out  of  this  last  extreme  of  modern  comfort — and,  scarcely  even  out 
of  "our  own."  Yet  nothing  is  easier.  I  commenced  this  journey,  little 
more  than  a  week  ago,  by  sleeping  on  a  sacking-bottom — and,  after  going 
through  all  the  variations  of  tressels,  canes,  beds,  cots,  and  hammock,  at 
last  came  down  to  the  floor  and  my  saddle-bags,  where  I  slept  just  as 
soundly  and  refreshingly. 

Yet  I  would  recommend  every  one  who  is  about  to  travel  through  the 
tierra  caliente,  to  procure  a  hammock  of  Sisal  grass.  With  this,  he  is 
entirely  his  own  master ;  and  surely  no  mode  of  sleeping  is  more  luxuri- 
ous in  a  hot  climate.  You  swing  it  from  the  rafters  of  the  room — it  is 
above  the  floor,  clear  of  the  walls  and  free  from  insects — it  bends  to  each 
motion  of  the  body,  fitting  neatly  to  every  part  of  your  frame — you  set  it 
in  motion,  and  while  it  swings  you  to  sleep,  it  fans  and  refreshes  by  its 
gentle  waving  through  the  air. 


Besides  the  beautiful  scenery  through  which  I  have  passed  during  this 
journey,  nothing  has  impressed  me  so  favorably  as  the  unaffected  hospi- 
tality we  met  with  everywhere,  whether  we  came  introduced  or  not.  The 
old  phrase  "  Mi  casa,  Sefior,  esta  muy  a  su  disposicion :"  "  My  house  is 
entirely  at  your  service,"  was  not  a  phrase  of  course — a  mere  formula  to 
be  gone  through  and  forgotten.     Their  houses,  their  animals,  their  serv- 


burial  of  Santa  anna's  leg.  207 

ants  and  themselves  were  all  at  our  command,  and  with  a  cordiality  that 
forbad  the  idea  of  an  arriire  pensee. 

Living  in  the  country,  at  a  distance  from  large  towns,  with  but  little 
literature  and  few  and  irregularly  received  newspapers,  the  haciendados 
and  their  administradors  are  glad  to  welcome  the  traveller  as  a  guest  to 
their  doors.  With  ample  means  of  accommodation  and  entertainment, 
they  enjoy  as  well  as  confer  a  favor,  and  are  as  thankful  for  your  visit, 
as  you  are  to  them  for  their  repasts  and  attentions.  You  feel  that  the 
account  is  fairly  balanced,  and  that  the  other  little  elegancies  and  assidui- 
ties which  are  thrown  in  for  your  comfort  are  the  result  of  genuine  hospi- 
tality, and  the  promptings  of  excellent  hearts.  They  are  noble,  liberal, 
generous  gentlefolks ;  and  I  hope  again  to  travel  in  the  tierra  caliente, 
and  meet  a  few  Senor  Sylvas,  Don  Antonios,  and  Don  Filipes. 


HOME. 

27  th  September.  We  left  Ayotla  at  half-past  two  this  morning,  and 
arrived  at  the  city  gates  just  after  sunrise,  as  the  cannons  were  firing  in 
honor  of  the  day  which  is  to  be  celebrated  by  the  "entombment  of  the  re- 
mains of  Santa  Anna's  leg,  that  was  shot  off  at  the  battle  of  Vera  Cruz  in 

1838  !" 


The  principal  streets  were  covered  with  an  awning ;  the  military  came 
out  in  all  their  finery ;  the  chief  functionaries  of  the  Government  united 
in  the  procession;  and  thus,  the  limb  of  the  President — cut  off  in  1838 — 
buried  since  then  at  Vera  Cruz — disinterred  and  brought  to  the  Capital  in 
1842 — and  now,  laid  in  a  crystal  vase — was  borne  to  the  cemetery  of 
Santa  Paula,  where  it  was  deposited  in  a  monument  erected  to  receive 
it  by  the  Commissary-general  of  the  Mexican  army ! 

A  solemn  eulogium  (on  the  President — not  the  leg)  was  then  pro- 
nounced by  Senor  Sierra  y  Rosa,  and  the  ceremonies  in  honor  of  the 
precious  relic  were  concluded. 

A  caustic  "Protest  of  the  dead  bodies  of  the  cemetery  against  the  recep- 
tion of  the  limb  among  them," — was  soon  afterward  found  on  an  adjacent 
tomb. 


•LETTER    XXIV. 


ACCOUNT  OF  AN  ASCENT  TO  THE   SUMMIT  OF  THE  VOLCANO  OF  POPOCATEPETL. 


INTERIOR     OF     THE     CRATER      OF     POPOCATEPETL. 


It  is  impossible  to  cast,  your  eyes  eastwardly  over  the  plain,  without 
having  their  view  bounded  by  the  lofty  peaks  of  Popocatepetl — "the 
smoking  mountain,''''  and  its  neighbor  Iztaccihuatl — or  "the  white  woman," 
lifting  their  snowy  heads  far  above  the  level  of  the  wall-like  sierra  that 
hems  in  the  Valley  of  Mexico.  I  had  ardently  longed  to  climb  one  of 
these  mountains  to  survey  the  adjacent  plains  from  its  craggy  crater, 
but  I  was  constantly  doomed  to  disappointment.  Several  parties  that 
were  made  up  failed  at  the  fixed  time,  and  the  rainy  season  coming 


!■■     llillflilllililliili      jli 


ASCENT    OF    POPOCATEPETL.  209 

on,  I  was  forced  to  abandon  the  enterprise  entirely.  In  the  course,  how- 
ever,  of  my  preparations  for  an  ascent,  I  had  enjoyed  frequent  conversa- 
tions with  Mr.  Egerton,  and  Mr.  Von  Gerolt,  the  Prussian  Charge  d'Aifaires, 
on  the  subject;  and  by  these  gentlemen  (who  have  both  ascended  the 
volcano,)  T  was  put  in  possession  of  the  preceding  drawing  and  the  sub- 
stance of  the  following  account,  which  has  hitherto  never  been  given  in 
our  language.  As  I  think  it  extremely  interesting,  when  compared  with 
the  various  published  accounts  of  the  ascent  of  Mont  Blanc  and  other 
mountains  in  the  Old  and  New  World,  I  shall  make  no  apology  for  pre- 
senting it  to  you  in  this  volume.  The  volcano  lies  about  60  miles  from 
the  city  of  Mexico,  and,  after  Chimborazo,  is  the  highest  peak  on  this 
continent. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  rainy  season  of  1833,  Mr.  Von  Gerolt  and 
the  Baron  Gros,  then  Charge  of  the  French  Legation  in  Mexico,  departed 
from  the  Capital  on  horseback,  escorted  by  a  troop  of  soldiers  to  protect 
them  from  robbers,  and  followed  by  mules  and  servants  bearing  the  neces- 
sary philosophical  instruments  and  sufficient  provisions  for  the  journey. 

They  sallied  forth  on  the  Vera  Cruz  road,  between  the  lakes  of  Tez- 
coco  and  Chalco,  for  eight  leagues,  to  Ayotla — beyond  which  they  struck 
off  in  a  southwardly  direction,  and,  at  the  distance  of  five  leagues  more, 
commenced  the  ascent  of  the  Cordillera,  on  the  summit  of  which  a  table- 
land is  spread  out  about  800  feet  above  the  level  of  the  city.  On  this 
plain  they  passed  the  villages  of  Ameca  and  Ozumba  at  the  foot  of  the 
volcano  and  its  neighboring  mountain,  and  here  they  found  the  first  signs 
of  those  immense  barrancas  or  deep  ravines,  worn  into  the  steeps  by  the 
melting  of  snow  for  centuries. 

The  southern  slope  of  Popocatepetl  appeared  to  offer  our  travellers  the 
easiest  ascent,  and,  accordingly,  having  obtained  three  Indian  guides  from 
the  Alcalde,  and  an  escort  of  two  soldiers,  for  the  wilds  of  the  forest,  they 
set  forth  on  their  perilous  journey  early  on  the  morning  of  the  22nd 
of  May.  Their  way  led  through  a  tangled  wilderness  of  plants  and  trees. 
After  passing  a  number  of  barrancas,  the  sides  of  which  were  covered 
with  beautiful  pines  standing  out  in  relief  against  the  bright  snows  above 
them ;  and  being  compelled  to  cut  a  way  through  the  matted  forest  with 
their  swords  and  Indian  axes,  they  reached,  about  noon,  the  rancho  of 
Zacapalco.  The  owner  was  absent  from  home,  but  they  found  the  exten- 
sive pasturages  round  his  house  filled  with  cattle,  and  protected  by  a 
guard  from  the  wolves  and  lions  with  which  the  woods  are  infested.  As 
there  was  no  one  in  the  dwelling  to  bid  them  welcome,  they  took  the  lib- 
erty to  help  themselves  to  the  grazier's  utensils,  and  dined  most  comfort- 
ably at  the  upland  farm.  The  air  was  chilly  and  respiration  had  already 
become  difficult. 

After  their  meal  they  bade  farewell  to  part  of  their  company,  and  with 
the  Indians  and  two  servants,  continued  their  upward  course  on  horseback 
notwithstanding  the  increasing  heaviness  of  the  sand.  In  two  hours  they 
14 


210 


MEXICO 


attained  the  limit  of  vegetation,  when  they  saw  but  a  few  pines — whose 
gnarled  and  twisted  branches  exhibited  scarcely  a  sign  of  verdure.  Some 
small  singing  birds  flew  by  them,  and  the  plants  they  had  observed  in 
the  course  of  their  ascent  thus  far,  are  mentioned  in  the  subjoined  note.* 

At  this  spot  our  travellers  found  a  wide  desert  of  black  volcanic  sand, 
covered  with  fragments  of  pumice.  They  were  soon  warned  of  approach, 
ing  difficulties.  The  clouds  gathered  in  thick  masses  around  the  top  of 
the  volcano  portending  a  storm ;  and,  scarcely  had  they  retreated  again 
to  their  tent,  when  it  came  down  on  them  with  all  the  mercilessness  of  a 
tropical  hurricane.  For  several  hours  during  the  ensuing  night  the  sur- 
rounding wastes  were  lit  up  with  incessant  flashes  of  the  most  brilliant 
lightning,  shooting  from  the  cloud?  above  and  below  them,  and  at  times 
even  streaming  horizontally  along  the  wastes  of  dreary  sand,  crashing  the 
branches  of  the  forest  and  rending  the  stoutest  pines.  They  seemed  en- 
veloped in  flame — yet  they  had  no  protection  from  the  fury  of  this  storm 
of  hail  and  thunder  but  a  scanty  cloth,  thrown  over  the  limb  of  a  tree  and 
pegged  to  the  ground  ! 

Thus  passed  the  night  until  four  o'clock.  When  day  dawned,  they 
found  the  mountain  covered  with  snow,  and  the  summit  entirely  enveloped 
in  clouds.  Nevertheless  they  resolved  to  proceed,  and,  with  the  greatest 
difficulty,  prevailed  on  the  Indians  to  accompany  them. 

For  a  league  and  a  half  farther,  they  advanced  on  horseback,  but  the 
pathway  became  so  deep  and  yielding  in  the  sand,  that  they  were  forced 
to  dismiss  their  servants  with  the  animals,  and  continue  with  the  guides 
alone.  The  toil  of  ascending  on  foot  now  commenced,  and  they  describe 
it  as  one  of  the  most  agonizing  they  ever  underwent ;  sliding  back  half 
the  distance  they  had  made  in  advance  at  every  footstep,  and  laboring 
with  the  increased  circulation  to  such  a  degree  that  they  could  scarcely 
breathe.  Yet  they  persevered  resolutely  for  several  hours,  until  the  ill- 
shod  Indians,  whose  feet  were  cut  by  the  snow  and  sands,  gave  out  en- 
tirely, and  the  Baron  and  Mr.  Von  Gerolt  were  forced  to  proceed  wholly 
unattended.  It  was  about  this  time  that  the  sun  broke  out  from  the  clouds, 
for  which  (although  they  disregarded  it  then,)  they  paid  dearly  enough 
in  the  sequel. 

At  noon,  after  immense  fatigue  and  exertions,  they  found  themselves  at 


*  Salviu,  three  species. 

Lobelia,                three  species 

Buccharis,  Cineraria,  fuur 

species. 

Btevia.                   do. 

do. 

Acacia. 

Leonia-snlvifolia,  do. 

do. 

Cestrum,      two  species. 

CEnotera,               do. 

do. 

Asclepias,     do.    do. 

fuchsia. 

Iresine,          do.    do. 

Achyrophorus  roseus. 

Arbutus,        do.    do. 

Those  nearest  the  limit  of  vegetation  were 

Eupntorinm,  do.    do. 

Chelone.  lentianoidct. 

Hedyotis,                   three 

species. 

Amaryllis,  minuta. 

Viburnum,                  do. 

do. 

l'hrclia. 

Corapsis,                     do. 

do. 

Cnetilleja. 

Myosotis  grandiflora.  do. 

do. 

Lupinus-vaginatus. 

do.       flor.  alb.       do. 

do. 

Kibes,  odoratum. 

Stachys,                       do. 

do. 

Arenaria  bryoides. 

ASCENT    OF    POPOCATEPETL.  211 

the  steep  basaltic  rock  which  is  visible  from  Mexico,  sticking  like  a  thorn 
out  of  the  volcano's  side,  and  is  called  the  Pico  del  Fraile — sixteen  thou- 
sand eight  hundred  and  ninety-five  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea — and 
apparently  but  a  short  distance  from  the  summit  of  the  cone. 

Nevertheless,  this  was  doomed  to  be  the  limit  of  their  present  enterprise. 
As  soon  as  they  had  refreshed  themselves  by  a  little  repose,  they  endeav- 
ored to  trace  a  path  upward  from  the  rocks  ;  but  everything  was  covered 
with  ice  and  snow.  None  of  the  ravines  were  bare,  as  usual  at  this  sea- 
son, when  they  are  generally  traversed  by  torrents  on  their  way  to  the 
valley.     All  was  a  waste  of  cloud  and  frost. 

In  addition  to  these  physical  dangers — the  day  was  far  advanced ; 
there  was  no  place  where  they  could  be  sheltered,  or  where  they  would 
not  freeze  to  death  during  the  night  if  they  advanced.  They  had  no  food 
— and  they  were  already  wearied  by  an  eight  hours'  march  in  a  rarefied 
atmosphere.  Disagreeable  as  was  the  alternative,  it  was  resolved  to 
retreat  to  the  rancho,  which  they  reached  at  sunset,  suffering  the  most 
excruciating  agony  in  their  eyes  and  faces  from  the  effects  of  the  reflec- 
tion of  the  sun  from  the  brilliant  snow. 

After  a  night  of  pain  and  sleeplessness  they  returned  next  morning  to 
Ozumba,  whence  they  reached  the  Capital  after  a  delay  of  a  couple 
of  days. 

This  unfortunate  termination  of  their  enterprise,  however,  did  not  dis- 
hearten them.  In  the.  following  year  they  again  undertook  the  ascent, 
and  were  accompanied  on  that  occasion  by  Mr.  Egerton,  the  distinguished 
artist,  who  was  murdered  last  year  at  Tacubaya. 

On  the  28th  of  April,  1834,  they  departed  early  in  the  morning  from 
the  village  of  Ozumba,  accompanied  by  three  guides,  two  of  whom  were 
the  brothers  Paez,  their  companions  of  the  previous  year.  They  were 
now  better  prepared  with  comforts  and  necessaries  for  their  journey,  and, 
besides,  had  provided  themselves  with  staves,  some  fifteen  feet  in  length, 
shod  with  iron,  to  aid  in  leaping  from  rock  to  rock  and  steadying  them  on 
the  slippery  snow. 

Reaching  the  limit  of  vegetation  at  three  in  the  afternoon,  they  pitched 
their  tents,  lighted  their  camp-fires,  and  after  making  out  the  route  for  the 
next  day,  passed  a  few  hours  of  comfort  and  repose.  At  two  A.  M.,  on 
the  29th,  they  were  astir  by  moonlight,  and  continued  the  ascent  for 
nearly  an  hour  and  a  half  on  horseback,  when,  as  on  the  former  occasion, 
they  were  obliged  by  the  heavy  sands  to  dismount  and  proceed  on  foot. 
They  were  still,  however,  accompanied  by  the  three  guides  and  one  serv- 
ant, who  bore  their  provisions  and  instruments.  In  this  manner  they  ad- 
vanced in  the  direction  of  the  Pico  del  Fraile,  veiling  their  faces,  to 
protect  their  eyes  and  skin  from  the  reflection  by  which  they  had  been  so 
much  injured  and  annoyed  last  year;  and  thus  they  passed  the  broad 
belt  of  volcanic  sand  between  the  limits  of  vegetation  and  eternal  snow. 

At  half-past  seven  the  view  was  sublime.  The  immense  plains  and 
valleys  were  spread  below  them  like  a  sea — and  as  the  sun  rose,  the 
14* 


212  MEXICO. 

gigantic  shadows  of  the  volcano  lay  over  the  western  levels  even  to  the 
distant  horizon. 

At  half-past  eight  the  party  had  attained  the  Pico — and  in  the  shelter 
of  the  porphyrytic  rock  that  shoots  upward  near  two  hundred  feet,  they 
made  a  slight  and  comfortable  breakfast.  But  as  no  promises  could  in- 
duce the  Indians  to  go  farther,  they  were  obliged  to  leave  behind  many 
of  their  most  valuable  instruments,  and  among  them,  a  theodolite,  with 
which  they  had  designed  making  some  interesting  observations  and  ex- 
periments on  the  summit.  They  took,  however,  a  barometer  and  a 
Daniell's  hygrometer,  and  set  out,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Egerton's  servant, 
(a  youth  of  eighteen)  the  only  person  who  mustered  courage  to  accom- 
pany them. 

A  spur  of  rocks  which  strikes  upward  from  the  Pico  del  Fraile  impeded 
their  progress  in  a  direct  line,  and  it  became  necessary  to  strike  off  east- 
wardly  through  a  deep  ravine  formed  by  one  side  of  this  spur  or  crest, 
and  a  similar  spur  that  descends  in  that  direction  from  the  summit. 
This  ravine  faces  the  south,  and  through  its  comparatively  warmer  bed 
the  melting  snows  discharge  themselves  into  the  vale  of  Amilpas.  They 
continued  ascending  over  the  bottom  of  the  barranca  at  an  angle  of  thirty- 
five  degrees,  finding  but  little  snow,  although  the  eternal  limit  of  it  was 
two  or  three  thousand  feet  below  them.  After  three  hours  of  difficult  and 
dangerous  labor,  on  the  sharp  and  slippery  surface  of  the  rocks,  they 
reached  the  upper  end  of  the  gorge  where  it  terminates  in  the  solid  lava 
forming  the  dome  of  the  volcano.  Thenceforward  their  path  was  con- 
stantly over  snow,  and,  although  they  frequently  sank  through  it  up  to 
their  waists,  they  describe  the  difficulties  as  less  than  while  passing  the 
slippery  rocks  and  sands  of  the  washed  barranca.  Over  these  snows 
they  zig-zagged  for  a  while  longer — stopping  at  almost  every  step  to 
gather  strength  and  breath,  until,  at  half-past  two,  they  stood  upon  the 
lofty  summit. 

Until  that  moment  they  had  observed  no  symptoms  of  a  crater ; — but  the 
vast  gulf  now  burst  upon  them  at  once,  yawning  at  their  feet,  filled  with 
curling  vapors  that  rose  to  near  the  edge  and  mingled  with  the  clouds. 

The  highest  point  of  the  crater  is  described  by  Mr.  Von  Gerolt  as  lying 
to  the  westward,  and  the  lowest  to  the  east.  Its  shape  is  that  of  an 
irregular  ellipse,  the  greatest  diameter  of  which  is  between  the  NE.  and 
SE.  This  he  estimates  to  be  nearly  five  thousand  feet,  while  the  shorter 
is  about  a  thousand  less,  making  the  whole  circumference  of  the  crater, 
therefore,  nearly  a  league.  Its  rough  walls  plunge  to  a  depth  of  a  thou- 
sand feet,  and  the  bottom  (although  of  the  same  shape)  has  not  the  same 
huge  dimensions  as  the  upper  rim. 

As  the  sun  penetrated  the  lowest  depths  of  the  crater,  our  travellers 
distinctly  saw  its  base,  from  which  two  fountains  of  sulphur  constantly 
poured  forth  a  whitish  smoke  that  rested  on  the  rocks  of  the  steep  walls, 
and  deposited  its  residuum  among  the  cracks  and  crannies.  The  base 
and  sides  appeared  to  be  entirely  crusted  with  sulphur,  and  they  judged 


THE    CRATER.  213 

that  the  narrower  dimensions  of  the  base  are  altogether  owing  to  the  im- 
mense accumulation  of  that  material  for  centuries.  On  the  upper  edge 
of  the  crater,  the  snow — drifted  by  the  winds — curled  over  the  sharp 
ledges,  but  there  were  no  indications  of  sulphur  on  the  nearest  rocks. 
Yet,  in  various  parts  of  the  rim,  there  were  circular  vents,  from  two  to 
five  inches  in  diameter,  whence  a  sulphurous  steam  issued  with  a  roaring 
sound,  intermitting  at  intervals  in  strength  and  volume. 

In  order  to  examine  these  valves  more  closely,  Mr.  Von  Gerolt  de- 
scended about  sixty  feet  into  the  crater,  over  masses  of  red  porphyry. 
These  contain  much  vitreous  feldspar  and  approach  the  character  of  porous 
lava,  while  the  immense  wall  of  the  opposite  side  seemed  to  be  composed 
of  different  rock ; — and,  through  the  telescope,  appeared  in  color  of  a  violet 
gray,  deposited  in  horizontal  strata,  resembling  the  material  of  the  vol- 
canic hill  near  Ayotla. 

Our  adventurers  discovered  no  place  by  which  they  could  reach  the 
bottom  of  the  crater,  nor  could  they  continue  their  examinations  on  the 
summit  for  any  great  length  of  time,  as  their  sufferings  were  intense  from 
the  rarefaction  of  air,  expansion  of  blood,  a  continual  aching  of  their 
eyes  and  brows,  and  excessive  debility.  They  conclude,  from  these  facts, 
that  the  story  related  by  Cortez  in  his  letters  to  Charles  V.,  that  Fran- 
cisco del  Montano  had  descended  into  this  gulf,  and  "  obtained  sulphur 
from  which  they  made  their  powder,"  is  entirely  inaccurate. 

The  silence  at  this  immense  height  is  described  by  Mr.  Von  Gerolt  as 
"  sepulchral,"  broken  only  at  intervals  by  a  subterraneous  roar,  like  the 
sound  of  a  distant  cannonade,  and  the  rattling  of  stones  and  masses  of  rock 
falling  from  the  walls  to  the  bottom  of  the  crater.  A  similar  sound  is  said 
to  be  frequently  heard,  even  in  the  city  of  Mexico,  in  the  direction  of 
Popocatepetl.  The  frequent  earthquakes  that  are  felt  in  the  Republic, 
heaving  the  whole  land  from  the  Gulf  to  the  Pacific,  from  east  to  west, 
like  the  undulations  of  the  sea,  and  manifesting  themselves  at  all  the  points 
where  there  are  indications  of  volcanic  action  on  the  surface,  can  only  be 
accounted  for  by  the  hypothesis,  that  at  a  great  depth,  all  these  volcanoes 
(separated  near  their  summits  by  transition  and  volcanic  rock,)  have  a 
general  communication  over  some  vast  central  furnace,  where  the  ele- 
ments are  in  continual  ferment. 

It  is  related  that,  in  the  great  earthquake  of  March,  1834,  at  half-past 
ten  at  night,  the  phenomenon  was  announced  by  regular  oscillations  of 
the  earth  from  east  to  west,  augmenting  gradually  until  it  became  diffi- 
cult to  stand  erect,  while  hundreds  suffered  as  from  the  nausea  of  sea- 
sickness. The  arches  of  the  aqueduct,  by  which  water  is  introduced 
into  Mexico,  (running  in  an  easterly  direction,)  were  split,  in  their 
centres,  while  the  one  that  comes  from  the  north  remained  uninjured. 
This  earthquake  was  experienced  nearly  at  the  same  moment  in  Vera 
Cruz,  St.  Andres  Tuxtla,  Huatusco,  (a  village  eight  leagues  from  the 
volcano  of  Orizaba,)  Jalapa  and  Puebla;  but,  singularly  enough,  it  was 
not  felt  three  leagues  north  of  Huatusco,  or  at  a  few  leagues  both  north  and 


214  MEXICO. 

south  of  the  city  of  Mexico.  Proceeding  westward  from  the  Capital,  it  was 
perceived  again  in  Morelia,  and  it  became  so  violent  in  the  direction 
of  Acapulco,  that  it  destroyed  houses,  cracked  the  earth,  and  finally 
plunged  into  the  sea,  whose  waves  rose  and  swelled  as  under  the  influ- 
ence of  a  violent  storm.  During  its  continuance  of  nearly  five  min- 
utes, there  were  no  meteoric  phenomena  worthy  of  note,  no  subterranean 
noise,  and  no  perceptible  change  in  the  altitude  of  the  barometer,  in  the 
city  of  Mexico. 

Standing  on  the  summit  of  Popocatepetl  and  looking  over  the  immense 
panorama — which  now  lay  spread  like  a  map  at  his  feet — Mr.  Von  Gerolt 
compared  his  repeated  examinations  of  the  geology  of  the  valley  and  of  the 
adjoining  departments,  and  he  came  to  the  conclusion,  that  both  the  volcano 
and  the  vale  owe  their  origin  and  present  condition  to  some  violent  erup- 
tion, by  which  the  actual  surface  has  been  raised  from  the  interior  to  its 
present  level,  through  the  primitive  and  transition  rocks ;  and  that  in  the 
mining  districts  of  the  states  of  Puebla,  Mexico  and  Michoacan,  the  rich 
veins,  manifested  in  slaty  formations,  or  in  metallic  porphyry,  are  but  the 
trifling  remains  or  islands,  as  it  were,  left  rising  above  the  plain,  after  the 
fiery  deluge  that  swept  over  portions  of  our  Continent. 

But  (turning  to  the  prospect  around  them,  from  the  examination  of  the 
crater  of  that  vast  stack,  which  pours  forth  the  smoke  and  vapors  of  the 
central  fires,  and  acts,  perhaps,  as  the  great  safety-valve  of  a  large  part 
of  the  New  World.)  the  travellers  speak  of  the  immense  picture  that  lay 
before  them  as  indescribably  sublime. 

The  day  was  remarkably  clear.  Few  clouds,  and  those  very  high  in 
the  air,  appeared  against  the  sky,  which  was  almost  black  with  the  inten- 
sity of  its  azure ;  and,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  in  every  direction, 
there  was  one  uninterrupted  waving  of  mountain,  valley  and  plain,  until 
(almost  without  a  horizon)  the  earth  and  the  sky  blent  in  vapory  blueness. 
In  the  midst  of  the  eastern  plain,  the  tall  cone  of  Orizaba  stood  up  in  bold 
relief  against  the  sky,  with  its  snowy  peak  glittering  like  a  point  of  flash- 
ing steel.  Below  them,  near  two  thousand  feet,  lay  the  summit  of  Iztac- 
cihuatl,  covered  with  snow,  and  exhibiting  not  the  slightest  evidence  either 
of  crater  or  volcanic  action. 

After  enjoying  this  splendid  panorama  as  long  as  their  enfeebled  con- 
dition would  allow  them,  erecting  a  flag-staff,  and  making  the  sketch  I 
have  placed  at  the  commencement  of  this  letter  ; — the  travellers,  at  four 
o'clock,  began  a  descent,  which  they  describe  as  not  the  least  difficult 
portion  of  their  enterprise.  If  they  complained  of  the  toilsome  slowness 
of  climbing,  they  could  now  with  equal  justice  complain  of  the  dangerous 
swiftness  of  their  return.  The  day  was  far  advanced  ;  the  cool  wind 
of  the  evening  had  already  frozen  the  surface  that  melted  under  the  noon- 
day sun,  and,  passing  over  the  sands  and  snows  at  a  sharp  angle,  they 


TOPOGRAPHIC     ELEVATIONS.  215 

were  often  violently  precipitated  either  against  masses  of  rocks,  or  to  the 
very  verge  of  precipices,  from  which  they  only  saved  themselves  by  the 
firmness  of  their  nerves  and  the  strength  of  their  iron-shod  staves.  At 
length,  however,  after  several  very  narrow  escapes,  they  reached  the  limit 
of  the  forest,  and  in  a  few  days  returned  to  Mexico  in  excellent  spirits. 

By  the  failure  of  the  Indians  to  ascend  with  them  to  the  summit,  they 
were  unable  to  make  many  experiments,  for  which  the  great  scientific 
acquirements  of  Mr.  Yon  Gerolt  so  highly  qualify  him.  In  addition  to 
this,  the  barometer,  which  had  been  slung  on  the  back  of  Mr.  Egerton's 
servant;  was  broken  by  a  fall :  so  that  (as  far  as  measurements  were  con- 
cerned,) the  expedition  was  entirely  fruitless.  I  have,  however,  compiled 
from  the  notes  of  two  other  parties,  the  following  statements,  which  are 
interesting,  as  affording  the  most  accurate  dimensions  of  this  remarkable 
volcano : 

Mr.  Berbece,  who  ascended  on  the  10th  of  November,  1837,  gives  the 
elevation  of  Popocatepetl,  above  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  at  10,382  feet. 
Mexico  is  above  Vera  Cruz,  according  to  Humboldt,        -       7,470 


Whole  height  of  volcano  above  the  sea,         -         -  -     17,852 

Mr.   Glexkie,  who  ascended  20th  April,  1837,  gives  the  elevation  of 

Popocatepetl,  above  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  at         -  -     10,413  feet. 

Mexico  above  Vera  Cruz,  according  to  Humboldt,  -       7,470 


17,883 

Bv  a  series  of  observations,  made  at  Vera  Cruz  in  1828,  the  opinion  is, 
that  the  true  height  of  Mexico  above  Vera  Cruz,  or  in  other  words,  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.  is  7,548  feet,  which,  added  to  their  elevations  above 
the  Valley  of  Mexico,  will  give  us,  for 

Berbeck, 17,930  feet. 

Glennie, 17,961 

While  Humboldt,  (who  gives  his  by  trigonometrical  ob- 
servations,)     --------     17,715 

The  limit  cf  all  vegetation,  according  to  Glennie,  is  -     12,693 

Pico  del  Fraile,    " 16,895 

Limit  of  pines.     ........      12,544 

In  November,  1827,  the  thermometer,  at  the  summit,  was  22°  of  Fahr. 
and  in  April  of  the  same  year.  33°. 

At  the  limit  of  vegetation.  Mr.  Von  Gerolt  found,  at  6  p.  u.,  the  precip : 
of  moisture,  by  DanielFs  hygrometer.  36°  Fahr.  on  the  interior  ther- 
mometer ;  and  at  50°  in  the  atmosphere.  Water  boiled  at  194°  Fahr. 
Barometer.  19.12.  English.  Temperature,  48°  Fahr.  Correspond- 
ing observations,  made  in  Mexico,  gave  23.071  English  inches,  from 
which  we  deduce  a  height  of  -  -  -  5.144  English  feet. 
To  which  add 7,548 

12,692 


216 


MEXICO 


which  is  within  one  foot,  it  will  be  perceived,  of  the  height  assigned  to 
this  spot  by  Mr.  Glennie. 

I  present  you  with  a  sketch  of  the  outline  of  the  mountain,  on  which 
the  different  elevations  are  marked,  so  that  the  whole  of  these  measure- 
ments will  be  at  once  mapped  out  before  you. 


179.70* 


12693fi.     J&j* 


1S4S  above:  THE  LEVEL  OF  THE  SEA. 


OUTLINE      OF      POPOCATEPETL.* 


*  This  is  a  difficult  word  to  pronounce,  but  it  is  easy  in  comparison  with  many  of  the  Indian  words  you  may 
hear  uttered  every  day  in  the  markets  of  Mexico. 

"Nothing,"  says  Humboldt,  "strikes  the  Europeans  more  in  the  Aztec,  Nahualt,  or  Mexican  language,  than 
the  excessive  length  of  the  words.  This  length  does  not  always  depend  on  their  being  compounded,  as  in  the 
Greek,  the  German,  and  the  Sanscrit,  but  on  the  manner  of  forming  the  substantive,  the  plural,  or  the  superla- 
tive. A  kiss  is  called  tetennamiquiliztli ;  a  word  formed  from  the  verb  tennamiqvi,  to  embrace,  and  the  addi- 
tive particles  te  and  liitli.  [n  the  same  manner  we  have  tlatolona,  to  ask,  and  tetlatolaniliztli,  a  demand  ;  tlay- 
hiouiltia,  to  torment,  and  tetlayhiouiltilizth,  torment.  To  form  the  plural,  the  Aztecs  in  several  words  double 
the  first  syllable;  as  miztli,  a  cat ;  mimiztin,  cats  ;  tochtli,  a  rabbit:  totochtin,  rabbits.  Tin  is  the  termination 
which  indicates  the  plural.  Sometimes,  the  duplication  is  made  in  the  midst  of  a  word  ;  for  instance,  ichpochtli, 
a  girl ;  ichpopocktin,  girls',  tclpochtli,  ahoy;  tclpopnchtin,  boys.  The  most  remarkable  example  1  have  met 
with  of  a  real  composition  of  words,  is  found  in  the  word  amatlacuilolitquiteatiaitlahuilli,  which  signifies,  the 
reward-given-to-the-messenger-who-carries-a-paper-on-which-is-painted-tidings.  This  word,  which  forms  by 
itself  an  Alexandrian  line,  contains  amatl.  paper  fof  the  ngave;)  cuiloa.  to  paint,  or  trace  hieroglyphics;  and 
tlaztlahuilli.  the  wages  or  salary  of  a  workman."  The  word  notlazomahuiztespiicatatzin,  which  signifies, 
venerable-priest-whom-I-cherish-as-my-father,  is  used  by  the  Mexicans  in  addressing  the  priests.  In  the  Aztec 
language,  the  letters  B,  D,  F,  G,  and  R,  are  wanting."— Humboldt's  Researches,  vol.  ii.  p.  246.  Pol.  Essay 
vol.  i.  p.  liS. 


JOURNAL  OF  AN  EXCURSION  TO 

TEZCOCO, 

THE   PYRAMIDS   OF   TEOTIHUACAN, 

THE    HILL    OF    TEZCOSINGO, 

&c  .     &c  .     &  c  . 


I  left  Mexico  on  the  seventh  of  October,  with  some  friends,  to  visit  the 
ancient  city  of  Tezcoco,  and  the  Pyramids  of  St.  Juan  Teotihuacan. 
There  are  two  routes  ;  one  by  the  road  around  the  southern  margin  of  the 
lake,  and  another  by  the  Indian  canoes  across  the  lake  itself.  We  selected 
the  latter,  and  rendezvoused  at  the  gate  of  San  Lazaro,  where  the  canal 
enters  the  city.  There  was  some  difficulty  in  finding  a  boat,  as  we  had 
delayed  beyond  the  hour  when  the  vessels  usually  leave  the  city,  on  their 
return  to  Tezcoco  ;  but  L ,  who  was  well  acquainted  with  the  neigh- 
borhood, beat  up  the  usual  haunts  of  the  Indians  about  the  pulque  shops, 
and,  by  dint  of  persuasion  and  clacos,  induced  a  couple  of  stout  rowers  to 
launch  their  vessel. 

In  half  an  hour  we  found  ourselves  on  board  a  flat-bottomed  scow,  under 
an  awning  of  mats  stretched  over  saplings,  and  reclining  at  full  length  on 
the  bedding  with  which  we  had  luckily  provided  ourselves,  against  the 
wants  of  Tezcoco. 

For  nearly  a  mile  from  the  city  gate,  the  canal  leads  through  a  tangled 
marsh,  tenanted  exclusively  by  mosquitos.  The  stings  of  the  annoying 
insects  were  not  idle  on  our  skins,  and  I  scarcely  ever  suffered  so  much 
as  in  reaching  the  waters  of  the  lake  through  these  foul  and  desolate  fens. 
We,  however,  soon  found  our  way  out  of  them,  stopping  for  a  moment  at 
the  Pefion  Viejo,  a  small  volcanic  hill  or  pustule  rising  from  the  plain, 


218  MEXICO. 

where  there  are  warm  baths,*  and  the  remains  of  some  ancient  sculpture, 
of  no  great  significance. 

On  attaining  the  lake  itself,  the  view  was  exceedingly  beautiful.  The 
expanse  is  a  clear  and  noble  sheet,  reflecting  on  its  calm  bosom  every  hill 
and  mountain  of  the  valley,  while  to  the  north  (where  it  unites  with  San 
Cristoval)  the  lakes  and  horizon  are  blended.  Yet  it  is  singular,  that, 
sounding  in  the  deepest  central  part  of  the  lake,  we  obtained  hut  two 
feet  and  a  half  of  water  !  The  boatmen  poled  the  entire  distance  of 
twelve  miles,  and  on  every  side  we  saw  fishermen  wading  along  in  the 
lake,  pushing  their  boats  as  they  loaded  them  with  fish,  or  gathered  the 
"  flies'  eggs"  from  the  tall  weeds  and  flags,  that  are  planted  in  long  rows 
as  nests  for  the  insects.  These  eggs  (called  agayacatl)  were  a  favorite 
food  of  the  Indians  long  before  the  conquest,  and,  when  baked  in  pate's,  are 
not  unlike  the  roe  of  fishes,  both  in  flavor  and  appearance.  After  frogs 
in  France,  and  "  hird  nests"  in  China,  I  think  they  may  be  esteemed  quite 
a  delicacy,  and  I  find  that  they  are  not  despised  even  at  fashionable  tables 
in  the  Capital. 

Father  Gage,  at  page  111  of  his  Travels,  says  that  "at  one  season  of 
the  year,  the  Indians  had  nets  of  mail,  with  the  which  they  raked  off  a 
certain  dust  that  is  bred  on  the  water  of  the  lake  of  Mexico,  and  is  kneaded 
together  like  unto  oas  of  the  sea.  They  gathered  much  of  this  and  kept 
it  in  heaps,  and  made  thereof  cakes  like  unto  brick-bats.  And  they  did 
not  only  sell  this  ware  in  the  market,  but  also  sent  it  abroad  to  other  fairs 
and  markets  afar  off;  and  they  did  eat  this  meal,  with  as  good  a  stomach 
as  we  eat  cheese  ;  yea,  and  they  hold  the  opinion,  that  this  scum  of  fatness 
of  the  water  is  the  cause  that  such  great  number  of  fowl  cometh  to  the 
lake,  which  in  the  winter  season  is  infinite." 

This  was  written  early  in  the  seventeenth  century,  and  "  infinite'''  still 
continues  to  be  the  number  of  wild  fowl  with  which  these  lakes  and  the 
neighboring  marshes  are  covered  during  the  winter.  I  have  elsewhere 
said,  that  the  plains  and  the  waters  seem  actually  peppered  with  them. 

There  can  of  course  be  but  little  skill  in  sporting  among  such  clouds 
of  birds,  and  the  consequence  is  that  they  are  slain  for  the  market,  by  per- 
sons who  rent  the  best  situated  shooting-grounds  from  the  proprietors  of  the 

*  According  to  Humboldt,  (Pol.  Essay,  vol.  ii.  p.  188.)  There  are  two  sources  of  mineral  waters  in  the  Valley 
of  Mexico;  one  at  Guadalupe,  the  other  at  the  Pciion.  Those  waters  contain  carbonic  acid,  sulphate  of  lime 
and  of  soda,  and  muriate  of  soda.    The  temperature  of  the  waters  at  the  Pefion  is  quite  high. 

At  this  place  the  Indians,  also,  make  salt. 

"Of  the  five  lakes  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  the  lake  of  Tezcoco  is  most  impregnated  with  muriate  and  carbon- 
ate of  soda.  The  nitrate  of  barytes  prove)  that  this  water  contains  DO  sulphate  m  solution.  The  purest  and  most 
limpid  water  is  that  of  the  lake  of  Xochimilco,  the  specific  weight  of  which  Hound  to  be  1.2009,  when  that  of 
water  distilled  at  the  temperature  of  51  :  l'ahr.  was  1.090,  and  water  from  the  lakeof  Tezcoco  was  1.0215.  The 
water  of  this  lad  mentioned  lake  is  consequently  heavier  than  that  of  the  Baltic  sea,  and  not  so  heavy  as  thai  of 
the  ocean,  which,  under  different  latitudes,  has  been  found  between  1.02ti9  and  1.0285.  The  quantity  of  sulphur- 
eted  hydrogen  which  is  detached  from  the  surface  of  the  Mexican  lakes,  and  which  the  acetate  of  lead  indicates 
in  great  abundance  in  the  lakes  of  Tezcoco  and  Chalco,  undoubtedly  contributes  in  certain  seasons  to  the  mi- 
healthiness  of  the  air  in  the  valley.  However,  the  fact  is  curious,  that  intermittent  fevers  are  very  rare  on  the 
banks  of  these  lakes,  the  surface  of  which  is  partly  hidden  by  rushes  and  aquatic  herbs.—  Vide  Humboldt— et 
Mod.  Traveller,  vol.  vi.  p.  251. 


THUNDER    STORM.  219 

lake  margins.  The  gunners  erect  a  sort  of  infernal  machine,  with  three 
tiers  of  barrels — one,  level  with  the  marsh  or  water,  another  slightly  ele- 
vated, and  the  third  at  a  still  greater  angle.  The  lower  tier  is  discharged 
at  the  birds  while  they  are  setting,  and  this  of  course  destroys  a  multitude  ; 
but  as  some  must  necessarily  escape  the  first  discharge,  the  second  and 
third  tiers  are  fired  in  quick  succession,  and  it  is  rare  indeed  that  a  duck 
avoids  the  wholesale  slaughter.  From  125,000  to  200,000  annually  load 
the  markets  of  Mexico,  and  form  the  cheapest  food  of  the  multitude  ;  but 
it  is  rare  that  you  can  procure  one  delicate  enough  to  bring  to  your  table. 


It  was  near  four  o'clock,  when,  under  the  slow  impulse  of  our  polers, 
we  approached  the  eastern  border  of  the  lake.  The  shores  were  dotted 
with  white-walled  haciendas  and  lines  of  beautiful  groves,  while  at  the 
distance  of  a  few  miles,  in  the  interior,  rose  the  lofty  sierra,  in  the  midst 
of  which,  the  mountain  of  Tlaloc,  '-'the  god  of  Storms,"  was  brewing  a 
heavy  thunder-storm.  The  clouds  were  thickly  gathered  around  the  top 
of  the  mountain,  and  as  we  disembarked  on  the  waste-like  quay,  among 
sands  and  marshes,  the  first  premonitory  drops  began  to  patter  on  our  hats. 
Here  we  had  expected  to  find  a  carriage,  or  at  least  horses,  waiting  to 
convey  us  the  remaining  league  to  the  town  of  Tezcoco.  But  as  we  did 
not  arrive  by  the  early  boats  of  the  morning,  our  friends  had  returned 
home,  presuming  that  we  had  relinquished  our  proposed  expedition. 

While  our  baggage  was  landing  from  the  boat,  the  rain  increased  rap- 
idly. There  was  no  place  for  shelter,  except  an  open  shed  occupied  by 
the  boatmen  during  the  day.  Thunder  and  lightning  were  soon  added  to 
the  storm  ;  and  yet,  in  the  midst  of  these  accumulated  discomforts,  we  took 
up  our  line  of  march,  as  the  prospect  of  remaining  was  worse  than  the 
danger  of  a  drenching.  None  of  the  Indians  could  be  bought  or  bribed  to 
leave  their  boats  and  carry  our  luggage,  nor  were  there  any  idlers  about, 
willing  to  earn  an  honest  penny  as  porters.  I  therefore  put  on  my  serape, 
and  the  oil-skin  cover  of  my  hat ;  and  fastening  my  valise  by  a  handker- 
chief on  my  back,  balanced  it  {ciguador  fashion,  in  front,)  by  my  gun  and 
sword, — and  thus  set  forth  for  a  dreary  tramp  over  the  lonely  waste. 

As  we  advanced,  the  rain  and  tempest  of  wind,  thunder  and  lightning, 
increased ;  and  I  have  no  recollection,  in  the  course  of  my  travels,  of  a 
more  disagreeable  pilgrimage  than  the  one  we  made  to  Tezcoco.  Our 
anxiety  was  greatly  increased  by  the  loss  of  one  of  our  party  in  the  dark- 
ness among  some  morasses,  and  by  the  rise  of  a  considerable  stream  that 
crossed  the  road  near  the  town.  We  however  waded  the  brook,  and, 
about  eight  o'clock,  arrived  at  the  hospitable  dwelling  of  an  American, 
who,  after  wandering  about  the  world  in  various  capacities,  has  settled 
down  in  the  city  of  Tezcoco,  where  (from  his  connection  with  an  exten- 
sive menagerie,  that  once  astonished  the  Mexicans  with  its  lions  and 
monkeys,)  he  passes  by  the  significant  cognomen  of  "  El  de  losjieros." 


220  MEXICO. 

A  kindlier  heart,  however,  exists  not  on  earth  ;  and  to  him  and  to  his  Mexi- 
can wife,  I  am  indebted  for  many  a  pleasant  hour,  beguiled  by  the  exqui- 
site music  of  the  one,  and  the  story  of  wild  adventure  of  the  other. 


TEZCOCO. 


Sth  October.  We  rose  early.  Every  symptom  of  yesterday's  storm 
was  swept  from  the  sky — a  clear  and  beautiful  day,  mild  as  our  June. 

After  breakfast  we  sallied  forth  to  make  arrangements  for  our  journey 
to  Teotihuacan,  but  found  that  the  person  who  was  to  furnish  us  with 
horses  had  gone  on  a  bull-catching  expedition  to  a  neighboring  hacienda. 
Finding  it,  therefore,  impossible  to  make  any  excursions  to  the  neighbor- 
hood to-day,  we  amused  ourselves  by  strolling  over  the  town  and  seeing 
all  that  is  interesting  in  the  way  of  antiquarian  research. 

At  the  period  of  the  conquest,  Tezcoco  was  the  second  city  of  the 
Mexican  Empire  ;  and  what  it  must  have  been  in  splendor  and  vastness, 
may  be  judged  from  the  account  I  have  heretofore  given  of  the  Capital 
itself.  Situated,  then,  on  the  borders  of  the  lake,  (the  spot  from  which 
Cortez  launched  his  brigantines  when  he  invested  Mexico  by  water,)  it 
perhaps  resembled  Pisa  both  in  power  and  importance ;  but  every  trace 
of  its  former  magnificence  has  disappeared,  and  it  has  dwindled  to 
scarcely  more  than  a  respectable  village,  where  a  few  herdsmen,  fisher- 
men, and  farmers  have  gathered  together  for  mutual  protection  and  traffic. 
The  large  Plaza  is  silent  and  deserted — the  people  loll  about  their  shops 
and  houses  as  on  a  holyday — a  universal  quietude  rests  over  the  whole 
town — and  a  general  listlessness  seems  to  prevail  both  in  regard  to  the 
present  and  the  future.* 

I  was  particularly  struck  with  one  bad  feature  in  the  character  of  the 
Tezcocans — a  disregard  for  their  dead.  In  passing  through  the  western 
portion  of  the  town  we  came  to  the  parish  church,  which  was  being  re- 
paired. On  entering  the  square  in  front  of  it,  I  stumbled  against  a 
human  skull ;  a  little  farther  on,  I  found  the  niches  in  the  walls  filled 
with  them  ; — the  floor  of  the  edifice  was  taken  up,  and  the  dead-pits  had 
been  cleaned  and  scraped,  yet  the  remains  of  the  human  frame  were  still 
plenteously  scattered  over  the  bottom,  and  the  stench  was  intolerable. 
The  whole  surface  of  the  yard  was  strewn  with  ribs  and  thigh  bones — 
lower  jaws — teeth — and  fragments  of  skulls,  and  a  huge  pile  of  rich, 
black  mould,  mottled  with  human  bones,  was  thrown  in  a  corner — the  contents 
of  the  pits  within. 

*  When  Cortez  entered  the  city  of  Tezcoco,  on  the  last  day  of  the  year  1520,  the  nobles  came  out  to 
meet  him,  and  conducted  him  to  one  of  the  Palaces  of  the  late  King  Nezahualcojotl,  which  was  large  enough, 
according  to  the  Conqueror,  "  to  contain  not  only  the  six  hundred  Spaniards  who  were  lodged  in  it,  but  as 
many  more."— Claviokro,  Book  x.,  vol.  2,  p.  139. 


ANC1LNT    BAS    REI.1KK. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    TEZCOCO.  221 


PYRAMIDS. 

In  the  northwestern  corner  of  Tezcoco  is  a  pile  of  earth,  bricks,  mor- 
tar and  pottery,  entirely  shapeless,  and  covered  with  a  field  of  aloes ;  on 
the  top  of  this  I  found  several  very  large  slabs  of  basalt,  squared  with 
the  chisel  and  laid  due  north  and  south.  Tradition  says,  that  these  are 
the  remains  of  the  Palace  of  Montezuma. 

On  this  spot,  some  years  ago,  the  small  fragment  represented  in  the  op- 
posite drawing  was  found,  and  immediately  transferred  to  the  collection 
of  the  Conde  del  Penasco,  in  Mexico,  where  it  is  now  preserved. 

It  appears  to  be  the  remains  of  a  trough  or  basin,  and  the  sculpture  is 
neatly  executed  in  relief.  I  imagine  that  it  was  designed  to  represent  a 
conflict  between  a  serpent  and  bird,  and  you  cannot  fail  to  remark  the 
cross  distinctly  carved  near  the  lower  right-hand  corner  of  the  vessel. 

At  the  southern  end  of  the  town,  there  are  still  distinctly  traceable 
three  immense  pyramids,  the  forms  of  which  are  not  so  much  obliterated 
as  might  be  simposed  after  the  lapse  of  centuries.  They  lie  in  a  line 
with  each  other  from  north  to  south — are  about  four  hundred  feet  in  ex- 
tent on  each  side  of  their  bases,  and  are  built  partly  of  adobes  and  partly 
of  large  burned  bricks  and  fragments  of  pottery.  In  many  places  I  dis- 
covered remains  of  a  thick  covering  of  cement,  through  which  small  ca- 
nals or  gutters  had  been  formed  to  carry  off  the  water,  or,  perhaps,  the 
blood,  from  the  upper  terrace.  The  sides  of  these  pyramids  were  strewn 
with  fragments  of  idols,  clay  vessels,  and  obsidian  knives.  It  is  related 
by  Bernal  Diaz  del  Castillio,  that  the  great  temple  of  Tezcoco  was  as- 
cended by  one  hundred  and  seventeen  steps ;  and  it  is  probable  that  one 
of  these  pyramids  was  the  base  of  the  Teocalli  to  which  the  historian 
alludes. 

These  were  all  the  antiquities  I  could  find  in  the  town  of  Tezcoco, 
except  the  spot  where  tradition  says  that  Cortez  launched  his  vessels. 
It  still  passes  by  the  name  of  "  Puente  de  las  Brigantinas,"  and  is  now 
probably  rather  more  than  a  mile  in  a  direct  line  from  the  lake. 

While  I  was  in  Mexico  a  most  interesting  piece  of  antiquity  was  sent 
from  Tezcoco  to  General  Tornel,  and  presented  by  him  to  Mr.  Morphy, 
an  opulent  English  merchant,  who  has  since  returned  to  England.  It 
was  a  group,  modelled  in  clay,  about  a  foot  and  a  half  high,  representing 
a  sacrifice,  and  consisted  of  two  figures — the  priest  and  the  victim. 
The  latter  (a  female)  had  been  thrown  over  a  tall  and  narrow  stone ;  the 
priest  had  just  made  a  deep  incision  in  her  back — torn  out  her  heart — 
and  was  in  the  act  of  offering  it  to  the  idol.  The  expressions  of  death  and 
agony  in  the  countenance  of  the  woman — and  of  pride  and  enthusiasm 
in  the  priest,  were  admirably  rendered.  I  intended  making  a  drawing  of 
this   group,  but  Mr.  Morphy  sent  it  to  the  coast  for  shipment  immedi- 


222  MEXICO. 

ately  after  its  reception,  and  I  scarcely  regret  the  occurrence  now,  as  one 
of  the  best  antiquarians  of  Mexico  cast  considerable  doubt  on  its  genuine- 
ness. It  is  the  fashion  here,  as  in  Italy,  to  manufacture  antiquities  by 
the  gross,  and  it  requires  a  keen  eye  to  detect  the  imposture. 

As  we  left  the  Pyramids  of  Tezcoco,  after  our  morning's  examina- 
tion, we  were  beset  by  several  of  the  burghers  who  professed  to  sell 
large  collections  of  interesting  fragments  arid  statues.  Among  these 
worthies  was  an  old  Indian  who  lived  directly  opposite  the  largest  of  the 
pyramids,  and  spent  his  leisure  hours  in  groping  among  the  ruins.  We 
accompanied  them,  one  after  the  other,  to  their  houses,  but  found  scarcely 
anything  worthy  of  purchase  except  a  few  small  idols  of  serpentine,  and 
some  personal  ornaments  cut  from  an  exceedingly  hard  and  brittle  stone. 
As  to  the  Indian — -his  idols  were  the  dolls  of  all  his  progeny,  and  had 
been  pounded  about  the  yard  of  his  mud  hovel  for  so  many  years,  that 
their  features  were  entirely  obliterated. 


In  the  evening,  the  person  who  was  to  be  our  guide  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, came  into  town  and  immediately  visited  us.  I  found  him  to  be  an 
honest,  open-hearted,  rollicking  fellow ;  who  passed  his  time  in  catching 
cattle — looking  after  a  small  milpa,  or  corn-field — and  hunting  in  the 
neighboring  mountains.  His  hands  and  face  were  scarred  by  his  numer- 
ous encounters  with  the  beasts ;  yet  before  he  left  us  he  made  one  of  the 
girls  of  the  family  tune  her  guitar,  and  leading  out  another,  danced  a 
fandango,  while  he  chanted  a  song  in  a  patois  that  I  could  not  under- 
stand, but  which  seemed  highly  amusing  from  the  merriment  of  the 
company. 

9th  Octoher. — Sunday.  A  night  passed  in  fieadom  !  We  were,  con- 
sequently, abroad  early — and  the  day  was  beautiful.  At  half-past  nine 
we  were  in  our  saddles,  and  on  our  way  to  the 


PYRAMIDS  OF  ST.  JUAN  TEOTIHUACAN. 


On  leaving  the  town  our  road  lay  in  a  northeasterly  direction,  through 
a  number  of  picturesque  villages  buried  in  foliage,  and  fenced  with  the 
organ  cactus,  lifting  its  tall  pillar-like  stems  to  a  height  of  twenty  feet 
above  the  ground.  The  country  was  rolling,  and  we  passed  over  several 
elevations  and  a  stream  or  two  before  we  turned  suddenly  to  the  right, 
and  saw  the  village  of  St.  Juan  with  an  extensive  level  beyond  it,  bor- 
dered on  all  sides  by  mountains,  except  toward  the  east,  where  a  deep 
depression  in  the  chain  leads  into  the  plains  of  Otumba.  In  the  centre 
of  this  level  are  the  Pyramids  of  Teotihuacan,  and  the  opposite  engra- 


■*l 

#   ia    '<» 


The  Geld  is  covered  with  treej. 
hushes,  nopals,  and  magueys. 
There  are  also  numerous  ves 
tiges  of  Mounds,  not  indi- 
cated on  tills  plan. 


'lllllllilK 

A.  Pyramid  nf  tlie  Moon. 

B.  A  huge  mass  of  granite, 
globular  in  shape,  and 
ti  yards  and  90  inches  in  E 
circumference. 

C.  The  Inrge  stnne   Pillar 

presented  in  tl 
ing  nn  the  next  page. 

U.  Pyramid  of  the  Son. 

E.   Rows  o!'  Mounds. 

5^ 


PLAN  OF  THE  RUINS 

O  F     T  H  If 

PYRAMIDS 

O  F 

st.  J  r  a  n 

T  HOT  Hi  U  AC  A  N. 


PYRAMIDS    OF    TEOTIHUACAN.  223 

ving  will  give  you  an  accurate  idea  of  their  position  and  present  appear- 
ance from  this  point. 

After  we  passed  through  the  village,  the  high-road  was  soon  lost  among 
paths  leading  between  the  walled  fields  of  Indian  farmers.  At  short  dis- 
tances, as  we  advanced  in  the  direction  of  the  pyramids,  I  observed  evi- 
dent traces  of  a  well  made  ancient  road,  covered  with  several  inches  of 
a  close  and  hard  cement,  which,  in  turn,  was  often  overlaid  with  a  foot  or 
two  of  soil.  We  crossed  the  plain,  and,  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  stood 
at  the  foot  of  the  Tonatiuh  Ytzagual,  or,  ■  House  of  the  Sun,"  the  base 
line  of  which  is  six  hundred  and  eighty-two  feet,  and  the  perpendicular 
height,  two  hundred  and  twenty-one.* 

There  is  no  other  description  of  these  monuments  to  be  given  than  by 
.  saying  that  they  are  pyramids,  three  stories  or  stages  of  which  are  yet  dis- 
tinctly visible.  The  whole  of  their  exteriors  is  covered  with  a  thick 
growth  of  nopals  or  prickly  pears ;  and,  in  many  places,  I  discovered 
the  remains  of  the  coating  of  cement  with  which  they  were  incrusted  in 
the  days  of  their  perfection.  A  short  distance,  northwestwardly,  from 
the  "  House  of  the  Sun,"  is  the  Metzli  Ytzagual,  or  "  House  of  the  Moon," 
with  a  height  of  one  hundred  and  forty-four  feet.  On  the  level  summits 
of  both  of  these,  there  were  erected,  no  doubt,  the  shrines  of  the  gods 
and  the  places  of  sacrifice. 

I  ascended,  clambering  among  the  bushes  and  loose  stones  with  uncer- 
tain footing,  to  the  top  of  the  "  House  of  the  Sun."  The  view  from  it  was 
exceedingly  picturesque  over  the  cultivated  fields  to  the  east  and  south. 
Immediately  to  the  south  were  a  number  of  mound-like  clusters,  run- 
ning toward  a  number  of  elevations  arranged  in  a  square,  beyond  the 
streamlet  of  Teotihuacan,  and  bordering  the  road  that  leads  to  Otumba. 
On  the  western  front  there  were  also  five  or  six  tumuli  extending  toward 
a  long  line  of  similar  mounds,  running  from  the  southern  side  of  the 
"  House  of  the  Moon."  These  lines  were  quite  distinct,  and  the  whole 
plain  was  more  or  less  covered  with  heaps  of  stones.  It  is  extremely 
probable,  that  at  one  time  they  all  formed  the  sepulchres  of  the  distin- 
guished men  of  the  Empire,  and  constituted  the  Micoatl  or  "  Path  of  the 
Dead" — a  name  which  they  bore  in  the  ancient  language  of  the  country. 
It  was  perhaps  the  Westminster  Abbey  of  the  Toltecs  and  Aztecs. 

You  will,  however,  obtain  a  much  better  idea  of  the  arrangement  of 
these  pyramids  and  smaller  tumuli  by  reference  to  the  opposite  plan, 
made  some  years  since  by  a  scientific  friend  of  mine,  and  compared  by 
me  with  the  remaining  ruins  on  the  spot,  in  1842. 

An  examination  of  the  "  House  of  the  Moon,"  or  lesser  pyramid,  af- 
fords no  more  information  to  the  inquirer  than  the  "House  of  the  Sun." 
Like  its  neighbor,  it  is  a  mass  of  stones,  rocks  and  cement ;  but,  within  a 
few  years  past,  an  entrance  has  been  discovered  between  the  second  and 
third  terraces,  leading  through  a  narrow  passage,  that  may  be  traversed 
on  hands  and  knees  on  an  inclined  plane  for  about  twenty-five  feet,  to 


224 


MEXICO. 


two  walled  chambers,  or  sinks,  like  wells  ; — one  of  which  has  a  depth  of 
about  fifteen  feet,  and  the  other  rather  less.  The  walls  of  the  entrance 
and  of  the  sinks  are  of  the  common  adobe,  and  there  are  no  remains 
either  of  sculpture,  painting,  or  human  bodies,  to  reward  the  groper 
through  the  dark  and  dusty  adit.  I  could  perceive  no  sign  of  an  entrance 
in  the  "House  of  the  Sun." 

It  is  useless  to  inquire  into  the  antiquity  of  these  pyramids.  There  is 
no  authentic  tradition  of  their  builders,  although  they  are  usually  referred 
to  the  Toltecs.  Clavigero*  is  very  brief  in  his  remarks  in  regard  to 
them,  but  says  that  in  the  temples  dedicated  to  the  Sun  and  Moon,  there 
were  two  idols  of  huge  bulk  carved  of  stone  and  covered  with  gold.  The 
breast  of  the  idol  of  the  Sun  was  grooved  out,  and  a  massive  image  of  the 
planet,  in  solid  gold,  was  fixed  in  the  hollow.  Of  this  the  conquerors 
immediately  possessed  themselves,  while  the  idol  was  destroyed  by  order 
of  the  Bishop  of  Mexico,  and  the  fragments  remained  in  the  neighborhood 
until  the  end  of  the  seventeenth  century.  A  huge  globular  mass  of  gra- 
nite at  the  spot  indicated  on  the  plan  by  the  letter  B — measuring  nineteen 
feet  and  eight  inches  in  circumference — may  probably  be  either  part  of  its 
ruins,  or  the  sacrificial  stone  upon  whose  convex  surface  thousands  have 
been  offered  to  the  gods. 

A  short  distance  west  of  this  ball,  at  the  place  marked  with  the  letter 
C,  in  the  middle  of  the  small  semicircular  elevation  of  ground  and  stones, 
(on  the  top  of  which  are  three  tumuli  with  five  more  on  its  eastern  base,) 
is  the  curious  stone  of  which  the  following  is  an  exact  design. 


•  Vol  i,  p.  !K8  UIHI286 


INDIAN    TRADITION.  225 

It  lies  due  east  and  west,  and  is  ten  feet  six  inches  in  length  by  five 
feet  in  breadth.  The  material  is  granite,  and  though  the  sculpture  on  the 
northern  and  upper  sides  is  very  faint,  yet,  on  the  side  facing  the  south, 
it  is  quite  as  distinct  as  represented  in  the  drawing.  The  dark  shade  B 
is  a  hollow,  three  inches  deep  at  the  sides,  and  six  at  the  top  and  bottom. 
In  looking  at  this  stone  one  might  imagine  that  it  had  been  a  pillar,  thrown 
down  accidentally  on  its  side  ;  but  the  exact  east  and  west  position — 
precisely  in  the  centre  of  the  group  of  tumuli — would  seem  to  forbid  such 
an  idea.  It  is  said,  that  all  who  sit  or  recline  on  this  singular  fragment 
are  immediately  seized  with  a  fainting  fit ;  and,  although  we  had  heard 
of  this  remarkable  property  of  the  relic,  we  forgot  to  test  the  truth  of  it. 

Clavigero  tells  us,  that  in  the  principal  temple  of  Teotihuacan  there 
dwelt  constantly  four  priests,  who  were  remarkable  for  the  virtue  and 
austerity  of  their  lives.  Their  dress  was  of  the  most  ordinary  stuffs,  and 
their  food  was  confined  to  a  loaf  of  maize,  weighing  two  ounces,  and  a 
cup  of  atolU  or  gruel  of  the  same  grain. 

Every  night  two  of  these  devotees  kept  watch — offering  incense,  sing- 
ing hymns  to  the  gods,  and  shedding  their  blood  on  the  stones  of  the  tem- 
ple. Their  fastings  and  vigils  continued  for  four  years,  except  during  a 
monthly  festival,  when  they  were  permitted  to  indulge  in  as  much  food  as 
they  desired ;  but,  while  preparing  for  this  enjoyment,  they  were  obliged 
to  undergo  additional  mortifications.  At  the  end  of  four  years  they  re- 
tired from  the  temple,  and  an  equal  number  supplied  their  places,  to  go 
through  the  same  rites  and  sufferings — and,  in  honor  thereof,  to  receive 
the  same  homage  and  respect  both  from  the  people  and  their  sovereign. 

But  high  as  was  the  recompense  of  their  virtues,  the  punishment  of 
vice,  or  of  a  violation  of  chastity,  was  proportionably  severe.  If  the  crime 
was  proved  after  strict  investigation,  the  culprit  was  beaten  to  death — his 
body  burned — and  his  ashes  scattered  to  the  winds. 


TRADITION. 

There  is  a  singular  tradition  in  regard  to  the  reappearance  of  the  Sun 
and  Moon  after  the  regeneration  and  multiplication  of  the  human  race, 
which  I  will  here  recount  to  you. 

Omecihuatl — the  wife  of  the  god  Ometeuctli — after  having  borne  many 
children  in  heaven,  happened  once  to  bring  forth  a  knife  of  flint,  which 
her  enraged  offspring  flung  to  earth — when  lo !  from  its  fragments,  sprang 
sixteen  hundred  heroes!  Immediately  they  petitioned  their  mother  to 
grant  them  power  to  create  men  for  their  servants.  But  she  disdained  to 
aid  her  children,  and  sent  them  to  the  god  of  Hell,  who,  she  declared, 
would  furnish  them  with  a  hone  of  one  of  the  men  who  had  perished  in  the 
general  destruction  of  the  races.  This  fragment  she  ordered  them  to 
15 


226  MEXICO. 

sprinkle  with  their  blood,  and  a  human  pair  should  spring  from  it  to  re- 
generate the  species. 

Xolotl,  one  of  the  heroes,  departed  on  the  dangerous  errand,  and 
having  obtained  the  gift  from  the  infernal  deity,  hastened  off  precipitately 
in  fear  that  he  might  repent  the  present.  So  rapidly  did  he  return  to 
earth,  that  in  his  speed  he  accidentally  fell  and  broke  the  bone!  Never- 
theless, he  returned  to  his  brothers  with  the  fragments,  and,  placing  them 
in  a  vessel,  sprinkled  the  precious  relics  with  blood  drawn  from  their 
bodies.  On  the  fourth  day  there  appeared  a  boy  ;  and,  after  a  lapse  of 
three  days  more — during  which  the  bloody  sprinklings  were  continued — 
a  girl  was  formed.  They  were  reared  by  their  guardian  Xolotl  with  the 
milk  of  thistles — and  thus  commenced  the  regeneration  of  the  world  ! 

But  there  was  no  Sun  nor  Moon  !  The  luminaries  that  existed  in  for- 
mer days  had  been  extinguished  in  the  general  ruin. 

The  heroic  brothers,  therefore,  assembled  on  the  plain  of  Teotihuacan. 
They  built  a  huge  pile,  and,  kindling  it,  declared  that  the  first  who  threw 
himself  into  the  flames  should  have  the  glory  to  be  transformed  into  a 
Sun.  Nanahuatzin,  the  boldest  of  the  multitude,  immediately  leaped  into 
the  blaze  and  descended  to  hell.  After  a  short  period,  the  Sun  rose  in 
the  east ! 

But  scarcely  had  he  appeared  above  the  horizon  when  he  stopped  in 
his  course.  They  sent  a  message  to  the  Orb  desiring  him  to  continue  his 
travels,  but  he  politely  declined  doing  so  until  he  should  see  them  all  put 
to  death! 

This,  as  may  well  be  imagined,  was  anything  but  agreeable  to  the 
band  of  sixteen  hundred,  and  not  a  few  undertook  to  manifest  their  dis- 
pleasure very  openly.  One  seized  his  bow  and  shot  «tn  arrow,  which  the 
Sun  safely  avoided  by  dodging!  Another  made  an  equally  passionate 
and  fruitless  demonstration  ;  and,  so  on  with  several,  until  the  luminary, 
tired  of  the  sport,  and  somewhat  annoyed,  flung  back  one  of  the  arrows, 
and  fixed  it  in  the  forehead  of  the  first  hero  who  had  rashly  aimed  at  his 
blazing  disc. 

The  heroic  brothers,  intimidated  by  the  fate  of  their  companion,  and 
unable  to  cope  with  the  Orb,  resolved  to  yield  to  his  behests  and  to  die  by 
the  hands  of  the  daring  Xolotl ;  who,  after  slaying  all  his  relatives,  com- 
mitted suicide.  Before  the  heroes  perished,  they  bequeathed  their  clothes 
to  their  servants ;  and,  even  at  the  period  of  the  conquest,  many  "ancient 
garments"  were  preserved  by  the  Mexicans  with  singular  veneration,  un- 
der the  belief  that  they  were  the  dying  gifts  of  the  valiant  heroes,  who 
had  restored  the  lost  Sun  for  the  comfort  of  their  race. 

A  similar  fable  is  told  of  the  origin  of  the  Moon.  Before  the  final  sac- 
rifice of  the  1600,  another  person  of  the  same  assemblage  followed  the 
example  of  his  brother  Nanahuatzin,  and  threw  himself  into  the  flames. 
But  the  strength  of  the  fire  had  declined,  and  as  the  voluntary  victim 
burned  with  a  paler  flame,  he  was  glorified  only  by  the  humbler  dignity 
of  a  Moonship  ! 


- 1  --K^'^i  ,.ji 


VIATICUM    AND    FUNERAL    RITES.  227 

On  the  plain  which  had  been  the  scene  of  this  wonderful  incantation  and 
miraculous  result,  the  descendants  of  the  race  consecrated  two  temples  to  the 
Sun  and  Moon,  and  the  pyramids  I  have  just  described  were,  doubtless,  the 
bases  of  their  shrines  and  altars* 


It  was  late  when  we  turned  our  horses'  heads  homeward,  from  the  pyr- 
amids. At  the  base  of  that  of  the  Moon,  I  met  several  old  Indians  who 
brought  me  a  number  of  obsidian  sacrificial  knives,  and  small  heads  of  a 
finely  tempered  clay,  of  which  the  opposite  figures  are  specimens.  They 
have  evidently  never  been  attached  to  bodies,  and  their  purposes  are  en- 
tirely unknown  by  the  Mexican  antiquarians,  although  they  have  hitherto 
been  discovered  in  great  quantities  at  the  foot  of  these  Teocallis. 

As  we  were  just  departing,  an  old  woman  lugged  from  beneath  her 
petticoat  a  singular  box  of  mottled  marble,  divided  into  four  compart- 
ments, and  covered  on  its  exterior  with  very  elaborate  carving.  The  fig- 
ures appeared  to  be  those  of  Spaniards,  and,  in  one  place,  there  was  a 
symbol  resembling  the  cross.  She  said  it  had  been  dug  up  in  an  old 
field  by  her  husband,  when  planting  his  last  year's  crop.  Having  pur- 
chased it  for  a  dollar,  it  was  forthwith  deposited  in  the  folds  of  a  serape 
on  my  pillion,  with  the  sonorous  title  of  "  Montezuma's  inkstand  /" 

We  rode  merrily  home,  and  reached  Tezcoco  by  a  brilliant  moonlight, 
meeting  troops  of  Indians  returning  from  their  Sunday's  frolic  in  the  town. 
As  we  passed  through  the  numerous  corn-fields  with  which  the  road-side 
is  bordered,  we  heard  the  loud  crack  of  the  milperos'  whip,  as,  seated 
on  his  high  perch  in  the  midst  of  the  acres,  he  waved  it,  during  the  whole 
night,  in  terrorem,  over  the  flocks  of  robber  black-birds  that  infest  the 
neighborhood  as  the  grain  is  ripening. 


VIATICUM  AND  FUNERAL  RITES. 

10th  October. — Monday.  An  idle  day,  as  Tio  Ignacio,  (as  he  is  famil- 
iarly called,)  was  unable  to  accompany  us  to  Tezcosingo. 

Last  night  a  young  woman  died  in  the  house  next  to  us,  and  her  body 
is  exposed  to-day  on  a  bier,  surrounded  with  flowers  and  candles,  in  the 
entrance  of  the  dwelling,  so  that  it  may  be  seen  by  every  passer. 

Approaching  death,  and  the  funeral  services,  are  matters  of  considera- 
ble pomp  in  Mexico  with  almost  all  classes — and,  especially,  with  the 
rich. 

*  Vide  McCulIoh,  229,  230,  231. 

15* 


228  MEXICO. 

In  April  last,  Madame  Santa  Anna,  the  wife  of  the  President,  was  dan- 
gerously ill,  and  on  the  19th  of  the  month  her  life  was  in  imminent 
peril.  Early  in  the  morning  it  was  rumored  that  she  was  to  receive  the 
last  sacrament,  and,  in  all  probability,  would  not  survive  the  service. 
About  noon,  notes  of  invitation  were  sent  from  the  Foreign  Office  to  all 
the  members  of  the  Diplomatic  Corps,  requesting  their  presence  at  the 
ceremony  of  the  Viaticum  ;  and  at  seven  o'clock  we  repaired,  in  uniform, 
to  the  Palace,  where  we  were  provided  with  massive  wax  torches,  and 
ranged  round  the  walls  of  the  audience-chamber  with  the  invited  citizens, 
strangers,  and  friends  of  the  suffering  lady. 

It  was  already  quite  dark.  Presently  the  large  bell  of  the  Cathedral 
began  to  toll  mournfully ;  and,  being  near  a  window  overlooking  the 
great  square,  I  could  perceive  a  solemn  procession,  with  torches,  issue 
from  the  door  of  the  sacred  edifice,  preceded  by  a  military  band  perform- 
ing appropriate  music.  Slowly  it  advanced  to  the  Palace  gates — the 
jewelled  robes  of  the  Archbishop  and  attendant  priests,  flashing  in  the 
blaze  of  a  thousand  lights,  as  they  approached  the  portals.  They 
mounted  the  steps  ;  entered  the  apartment ;  and,  as  the  prelate  passed 
through,  chanting  a  hymn,  the  crowd  knelt  to  the  sacred  elements. 
The  Cabinet  Ministers  and  Chiefs  of  the  army  then  accompanied  the 
priests  into  the  chamber  of  the  lady,  where  the  required  functions  were 
performed.  Returning  again,  through  our  saloon,  they  issued  into  the 
square,  and,  after  making  a  tour  around  it,  entered  the  Cathedral.  The 
effect  of  this  procession — with  its  torches  blazing  in  the  night  like  so 
many  diamonds — its  solemn  military  music,  and  its  melancholy  hymn — 
was  solemn  and  picturesque. 

There  was  a  similar  display  (though  not  with  so  much  magnificence,) 
at  the  death  of  General  Moran,  ex-Marquis  of  Vivanco.  His  dwelling 
was  directly  opposite  my  hotel,  and  1  saw  the  whole  of  the  preparations 
for  his  funeral  from  the  windows. 

Having  been  a  patriotic  soldier  in  his  day,  the  Government  undertook 
the  arrangement  of  the  last  rites  in  his  honor,  and  he  was  escorted  by  the 
flower  of  the  troops. 

His  body  was  embalmed  by  the  process  of  Ganal.  It  was  laid  on  an 
open  bier,  dressed  in  the  full  uniform  of  a  Major-general,  with  boots, 
spurs,  plumed  hat,  sword,  and  even  the  cane  by  his  side,  as  is  usual  with 
Spanish  officers.  So  perfectly  had  the  operation  been  performed  on  the 
body,  that  it  presented  in  these  equipments,  a  horrid  and  unnatural  mock- 
ery of  sleep ;  nor  shall  I  ever  forget  the  stony  gaze  of  the  glass  eyes,  as 
the  dead  body  of  the  General  issued  from  his  gate-way. 

To  the  sound  of  solemn  music  the  procession  moved  along  the  streets 
of  Espiritu  Santo  and  San  Francisco,  toward  the  great  church  near  the 
Alameda.  The  bier  was  placed  on  a  lofty  catafalque  before  the  altar, 
hung  with  black  velvet  and  lighted  with  tapers.  A  solemn  service  was 
performed  with  every  aid  of  ecclesiastical  splendor — and  a  multitude  of 


A    RUSE     DE     GUERRE 


229 


priests,  in  the  different  chapels,  immediately  commenced  their  masses  for 
the  repose  of  the  hero's  soul.  At  dark,  his  body  was  left  with  watchers 
around  the  pile  on  which  it  reposed,  and,  in  a  few  days,  it  was  deposited 
in  an  oaken  sarcophagus  and  carried  to  a  favorite  hacienda  for  interment. 

TEZCOSINGO. 

Will  October.  Another  fine  day.  After  breakfast  we  started  on  our 
promised  expedition  to  the  hill  of  Tezcosingo — which  rises  in  a  tall  cone 
at  the  end  of  the  eastern  plain,  jutting  out  for  a  mile  or  two  from  the  wall 
of  mountains. 

Tio  Ignacio  accompanied  us  on  this  occasion,  and  proved  an  excellent 
guide  over  the  country;  By  his  free,  bold,  dashing  manners,  and  con- 
summate courage,  he  has  managed  to  obtain  a  remarkable  control  over  all 
the  neighboring  Indians,  and  appears  to  be  a  person  likely  to  make  him- 
self obeyed.  He  took  an  active  part  in  the  Revolution,  and,  as  we  rode 
from  the  town,  pointed  out  to  me  the  spot  where,  during  a  sudden  night- 
attack  of  a  guerilla  party,  he  had  been  chased  by  a  band  of  troopers  from 
whom  he  was  alone  saved  by  the  swiftness  of  his  horse.  It  seems,  however, 
that  one  of  the  cavalry,  more  daring  than  the  rest,  continued  the  pursuit 
after  his  companions  had  retreated  ; — but  he  paid  dearly  for  his  rashness 
in  the  end. 

When  Ignacio  had  cleared  the  streets  and  the  suburbs  of  Tezcoco,  he 
suddenly  turned  on  his  follower,  and  striking  off  at  right-angles,  dexter- 
ously threw  his  lasso  over  the  trooper.  In  a  moment  he  had  dismounted 
his  pursuer  ; — and  putting  his  animal  into  full  gallop,  dragged  the  wretch 
for  more  than  a  mile  over  the  plain,  and  cast  his  mangled  body  into  a 
barranca  ! 


THROWING      THE       I.  A  S  S  O 


230  MEXICO. 


As  we  trotted  over  the  league  of  level  ground  that  intervened  between 
the  town  and  hill,  this  story  of  the  "  tio"*  brought,  out  some  of  the  revo- 
lutionary recollections  of  one  of  our  party.  I  will  record  a  couple  of 
these  illustrating  the  jugglery  of  the  chiefs,  and  the  controlling  supersti- 
tious power  of  the  priesthood  over  the  mass  of  insurgent  Indians. 

It  is  related  that  Hidalgo,  the  celebrated  priestly  leader  of  the  Revo- 
lutionary movement,  was  accustomed  to  travel  from  village  to  village 
preaching  a  crusade  against  the  Spaniards,  and  exciting  the  Creoles  and 
Indians ;  and  one  of  his  most  effective  tricks  is  said  to  have  been  the  fol- 
lowing. Although  he  had  thrown  off  the  cassock  for  the  military  coat, 
he  wore  a  figure  of  the  Virgin  Mary  suspended  by  a  chain  around  his 
neck.  After  haranguing  the  mob  on  such  occasions,  he  would  suddenly 
break  off,  and  looking  down  at  his  breast,  address  himself  to  the  holy 
image,  after  the  following  fashion  : — "  Mary  !  Mother  of  God  !  Holy  Vir- 
gin !  Patron  of  Mexico !  behold  our  country, — behold  our  wrongs, — be- 
hold our  sufferings !  Dost  thou  not  wish  they  should  be  changed  ?  that 
we  should  be  delivered  from  our  tyrants  ?  that  we  should  be  free  1  that 
we  should  slay  the  Gauchupines  ?  that  we  should  kill  the  Spaniards'?" 

The  image  had  a  moveable  head  fastened  to  a  spring,  which  he  jerked 
by  a  cord  concealed  beneath  his  coat,  and,  of  course,  the  Virgin  responded 
with  a  nod  !  The  effect  was  immense — and  the  air  was  filled  with  In- 
dian shouts  of  obedience  to  the  present  miracle. 


During  the  heat  of  the  insurrection,  it  was  deemed  necessary,  upon  a 
certain  occasion,  to  execute  a  priest ;  and  the  officer  in  command  of  the 
party  ordered  a  common  soldier  to  lead  the  padre  to  a  neighboring  ditch, 
and  dispatch  him  with  a  bullet. 

The  soldier  peremptorily  refused,  declaring  that  it  was  unlawful  for 
him  to  kill  a  "servant  of  God."  The  officer  threatened  him  with  instant 
death  if  he  persisted  in  his  refusal ;  but  the  soldier  continued  firm.  The 
Captain  then  turned  to  the  priest,  ordered  him  to  "  receive  the  confession  of 
the  soldier  on  the  spot,"  and  then  sent  both  to  the  ditch,  where  they  were 
murdered  together  ! 

He  who  writes  the  secret  history  of  the  Mexican  Revolt,  will  have  to 
record  a  story  of  blood,  crime  and  superstition,  unequalled  in  the  annals 
of  the  world. 


*  "  Tio,"  or  uncle,  is  a  familar  mode  of  addressing  intimates  in  the  country. 


EXCURSION     TO     TEZCOSINGO.  231 

At  the  village  of  Huejutla  there  are  some  interesting  remains  of  the 
ancient  Indians.  A  large  ruined  wall,  about  twenty-five  feet  in  height 
and  five  or  six  in  thickness,  is  pointed  out  as  part  of  a  palace,  and  ter- 
minates, to  the  eastward,  on  the  steeps  of  a  barranca.  This  barranca  is 
crossed  by  an  ancient  arched  bridge,  which  we  neglected  visiting.  The 
most  interesting,  and  certainly  the  most  picturesque,  antique  in  the  vicin- 
ity, is  a  noble  row  of  seventeen  olive  trees,  in  an  inclosure  near  the 
church,  alleged  to  have  been  planted  by  the  conquerors. 

We  stopped  at  the  house  of  an  Alcalde  in  the  village  of  Natividad,  to 
procure  an  Indian  guide,  who  had  promised  his  services  to  aid  Ignacio  in 
discovering  certain  fossil  remains  that  lay  on  the  edges  of  the  mountains 
to  the  eastward ;  but,  after  waiting  a  considerable  length  of  time,  neither 
Ignacio  nor  the  Indian  appeared,  and  we  determined  to  proceed  alone  to- 
ward Tezcosingo,  under  the  escort  of  L ,  who  professed  to  be  well 

acquainted  with  the  hill  and  its  antiquities. 

The  conical  mountain  rose  out  of  the  plain  directly  north  of  us  ;  but  in 
order  to  reach  its  base,  we  were  obliged  to  descend  a  ravine  three  or  four 
hundred  feet  in  depth,  and  to  ascend  afterward  along  cliffs  and  herbage 
like  those  that  opposed  us  on  our  journey  to  Xochicalco.  At  length  we 
gained  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  and  commenced  a  zig-zag  ascent  to  the 
eastward  among  nopals  and  rocks  that  seemed  almost  impassable. 

We  managed,  nevertheless,  to  reach  the  summit  of  the  ridges  after  an 
hour's  labor,  and  beheld  Ignacio  in  the  distance,  scouring  the  plain  at  a 
gallop.  A  shout  from  our  party  soon  arrested  his  attention,  and  wheeling 
his  horse,  he  was  quickly  at  our  side  at  full  dash  over  cliff  and  ravine. 
I  felt  mortified  at  having  lost  confidence  in  him  at  the  village,  as  we  found, 
on  explanation,  that  he  had  been  most  anxiously  engaged  in  endeavoring 
to  persuade  the  Indian  to  guide  us.  The  savage,  however,  steadily  per- 
sisted for  a  long  time  in  refusing  to  accompany  him ;  believing  that  if  he 
pointed  out  the  fosil  remains,  we  would  certainly  carry  off  some  of  them, 
"  to  which  he  would  never  consent,  as  they  were  the  bones  of  certain 
giants  who  had  been  the  ancestors  of  his  race  /" 

I  know  not  by  what  witchcraft  Ignacio  managed  finally  to  prevail  with 
the  Indian ;  but  he  pointed  him  out,  waiting  for  us  at  the  foot  of  a  group 
of  palmettos  on  an  opposite  hill.  Thither  we  quickly  ascended;  yet, 
scarcely  had  we  reached  the  trees,  when  the  rain  commenced  pattering 
down  from  the  eastward,  where  it  had  been  brewing  as  usual  for  the  last 
hour  around  the  brow  of  old  Tlaloc. 

The  day  was  already  far  advanced  and  we  had  as  yet  seen  nothing  of 
remarkable  interest.  At  the  distance  of  a  couple  of  leagues  to  the  east- 
ward, was  the  edge  of  the  barranca  containing  the  bones ;  while,  a  league 
to  the  west,  was  the  unexplored  hill  of  Tezcosingo.  To  see  both  of  these 
spots  on  that  evening  was  impossible,  and  yielding,  therefore,  to  the  earn- 
est solicitation  of  the  Indian,  who  pointed  out  to  us  the  resting-place  of 
the  "huesos  de  sus  antepasados"  in  the  clayey  soil  of  the  eastern  barran- 


232  MEXICO. 

cas,  we  gathered  together  under  the  shelter  of  the  trees,  and  partook  of 
a  dinner  of  dried  kid,  peppers  and  pulque,  preparatory  to  our  visit  to 
Tezcosingo.* 

Directly  at  the  foot  of  the  eminence  on  which  we  rested,  there  was  an 
extensive  Indian  remain.  By  an  able  system  of  engineering,  the  water 
had  been  brought  by  the  ancients  from  the  eastern  sierra,  for  a  distance, 
probably,  of  three  leagues,  by  conduits  across  barrancas  and  along  the 
sides  of  the  hill ;  and  the  ruin  below  us  was  that  of  one  of  these  aque- 
ducts, across  a  ravine  about  a  hundred  feet  in  elevation. 

You  will  find  a  view  of  this  work  in  the  opposite  picture.  The  base  of 
the  two  conduit  pipes  is  raised  to  the  required  level  on  stones  and  masonry, 
and  the  canals  for  the  water  are  made  of  an  exceedingly  hard  cement, 
of  mortar  and  fragments  of  pounded  brick.  Although,  of  course,  long 
since  abandoned,  it  is,  in  many  places,  as  perfect  as  on  the  day  of  its  com- 
pletion ;  and  perhaps  as  good  a  work,  for  all  the  necessary  purposes,  as 
could  be  formed  at  the  present  day  by  the  most  expert  engineers. 

The  view  over  the  valley,  to  the  north,  toward  the  Pyramids  of  Teoti- 
huacan,  and  across  the  lake  to  Mexico,  was  uninterrupted  ;  and  the  city 
(beyond  the  waters,  surrounded  by  a  mirage  on  the  distant  plain,)  seemed 
placed  again,  as  it  was  three  hundred  years  ago,  in  the  midst  of  a  beauti- 
ful lake. 

After  we  had  finished  our  meal,  we  gave  a  small  compensation  to  the 
conscientious  Indian,  (who  seemed  delighted  to  escape  from  the  medita- 
ted sacrilege,)  and  resumed  our  route  toward  Tezcosingo.  The  road, 
for  a  long  distance,  lay  over  an  extensive  table-land,  with  a  deep  valley 
north  and  south,  filled  on  both  sides  with  haciendas,  villages,  and  planta- 
tions. We  crossed  the  shoulder  of  a  mountain,  and  descended  half  way 
a  second  ravine,  near  the  eighth  of  a  mile  in  extent,  until  we  struck  the 
level  of  another  ancient  aqueduct  that  led  the  waters  directly  to  the  hill 
of  Tezcosingo.  This  elevation  was  broader,  firmer,  and  even  in  better 
preservation,  than  the  first.  It  may  be  crossed  on  horseback — three 
abreast. 

As  soon  as  we  struck  the  celebrated  hill  we  began  ascending  rapidly, 
by  an  almost  imperceptible  cattle-path,  among  gigantic  cacti,  whose  thorns 
tore  our  skins  as  we  brushed  by  them.  Over  the  whole  surface,  there 
were  remains  of  a  spiral  road  cut  from  the  living  rock — strewn  with  frag- 

*  After  my  return  to  Mexico,  tw  Ignacio  persisted  in  obtaining  some  of  these  "ancestral  bones"  from  the  bar- 
rancas, and,  although,  the  bagfull  he  sent  was  nearly  ground  to  powder  before  it  reached  me,  there  were  still 
some  considerable  fragments  which  I  desired  to  submit  to  our  naturalists  for  their  opinion.  They  have  not  yet. 
however,  arrived  in  the  United  States  from  Vera  Cruz. 

Latrobe,  at  page  144,  of  his  Rambles  in  Mexico,  relates  that  some  workmen  in  excavating  for  a  canal  at  Cha- 
pingo,  (a  hacienda  near  Tezcoco, )  reached,  at  the  distance  of  four  feet  below  the  surface,  "an  ancient  cause- 
way, of  the  existence  of  which  there  had  not  been  the  remotest  suspicion.  The  cedar  piles  by  which  the  sides 
were  supported  were  still  sound  at  heart ;  and  three  feet  below  the  edge  of  this  ancient  work  they  struck  upon  the 
entire  skeleton  of  a  Mastodon  imbedded  in  blue  clay.  The  diameter  of  the  tusk  was  eighteen  inches.  Wherever 
extensive  excavations  have  been  made  on  the  table-land  and  in  the  valley,  of  late  years,  remains  of  this  animal 
have  almost  always  been  met  with.  In  the  foundation  of  the  Church  of  Guadalupe— on  the  estate  of  St.  Nich- 
olas, four  leagues  to  the  south,  and  in  Guadalaxara,  portions  of  the  skeleton  have  been  discovered."  Had  the 
ancients  some  means  of  taming  these  beasts  into  laborers  for  their  gigantic  architecture  I 


J 


SUMMIT    OF    TEZCOSINGO.  233 

merits  of  pottery,  Indian  arrows,  and  broken  sacrificial  knives ;  while, 
occasionally,  we  passed  over  the  ruins  of  an  aqueduct  winding  round  the 
hill.  The  eminence  seems  to  have  been  converted,  from  its  base  to  its 
summit,  (a  distance  of  perhaps  five  hundred  feet,)  into  a  pile  of  those 
terraced  gardens,  so  much  admired  by  every  tourist  who  falls  into  rap- 
tures among  the  romantic  groves  of  Isola  Bella. 

Our  horses  seemed  to  be  better  accustomed  to  the  dangerous  clamber- 
ing among  these  steeps,  than  ourselves,  and  we  therefore  continued  in 
our  saddles  until  we  reached  a  point  about  fifty  feet  below  the  summit, 
where,  in  a  due  northerly  direction,  the  rock  had  been  cut  into  seats  along 
a  recess  leading  to  a  perpendicular  wall,  which  is  said  to  have  been  cov- 
ered, until  recently,  with  a  Toltec  Calendar.  When  the  Indians  found 
that  a  place,  otherwise  so  unattractive,  was  visited  by  foreigners,  they 
immediately  imagined  their  ancestors  had  concealed  treasures  behind  the 
stone ;  as  they  supposed  that  gold,  and  not  mere  curiosity  could  have  lured 
strangers  from  a  distance  to  so  unsightly  a  spot.  They  consequently  de- 
stroyed the  carved  rock  in  order  to  penetrate  the  hill,  and  there  is  now  not 
a  fragment  of  the  ancient  sculpture  remaining.  In  the  hole,  burrowed 
by  the  treasure-finders,  we  discovered  a  number  of  Indians,  of  both  sexes, 
sheltering  themselves  from  the  rain ;  and  as  they  had  a  supply  of  nopals, 
(with  which  the  surrounding  rocks  are  covered,)  we  were  not  loth  to  dis- 
mount, and,  forgetting  our  indignation  for  the  moment — crawled  into  their 
cavern  to  enjoy  the  luscious  fruit. 

A  few  steps  upward  led  us  to  the  summit  of  Tezcosingo.  I  found  there 
no  remains  of  a  temple  or  edifice  ;  but  as  the  hill  is  supposed  to  have  been 
formerly  dedicated  to  the  bloody  rites  of  Indian  worship,  modern  piety  has 
thought  proper  to  purify  the  spot  by  the  erection  of  a  cross.  And  never 
was  one  built  on  a  more  majestic  and  commanding  site.  From  its  foot, 
the  entire  valley,  lake,  Tezcoco,  Mexico,  and  lakes  far  to  the  north,  were 
distinctly  visible,  and  the  beauty  of  the  panorama  was  greatly  increased 
by  the  sudden  clearing  of  the  skies,  and  an  outburst  of  the  setting  sun. 

Bidding  our  Indians  farewell  in  their  burrow,  we  descended  over  massive 
fragments  of  architecture,  to  a  spot  where  a  path  terminates  abruptly  in  a 
bastion-like  wall,  plunging  precipitously  down  the  side  of  the  mountain 
for  two  hundred  feet.  Here  we  found  what  is  called  the  "Bath  of 
Montezuma." 


234 


MEXICO 


diiP* 


m 

. :  &  ■ 


BATH      OF      MONTEZUMA, 


It  will  be  observed  in  the  drawing,  that  the  rock  is  smoothed  to  a  perfect 
level  for  several  yards,  around  which,  seats  and  grooves  are  carved 
from  the  adjacent  masses.  In  the  centre  there  is  a  circular  sink,  about 
a  yard  and  a  half  in  diameter,  and  a  yard  in  depth,  and  a  square  pipe, 
with  a  small  aperture,  led  the  water  from  an  aqueduct,  which  appears  to 
terminate  in  this  basin.  None  of  the  stones  have  been  joined  with  cement, 
but  the  whole  was  chiselled  from  the  mountain  rock. 

The  origin  and  purpose  of  this  work  are  entirely  unknown.  The  view 
from  it  is  secluded  and  picturesque,  over  a  small  glimpse  of  plain  seen 
through  a  frame-work  of  narrow  and  shadowy  valley  ; — but,  (as  Latrobe 
says,)  "  As  to  being  Montezuma's  Bath — it  might  have  been  hisybof-bath, 
if  you  will — but  it  would  be  an  impossibility  for  any  monarch,  of  larger 
dimensions  than  Oberon,  to  take  a  duck  in  it !" 

Such,  however,  is  the  extent  of  general  Mexican  antiquarianism  ;  their 
knowledge  of  history  reaches  to  the  reign  of  the  last  monarch  but  one  of 
the  ancient  Empire,  and  if  a  monument  or  an  idol  is  not  referable  to 


GROVE     OF    THE     CONTADOR.  235 

Montezuma  it  is  disposed  of  most  summarily  by  the  universal — "  Quien 
sabe !" 


It  was  growing  quite  late  (after  descending  the  hill  of  Tezcosingo  to 
the  plain  at  the  north  of  it,)  as  we  passed  through  the  estate  of  the  ex- 
Marquis  of  V ,  known  as  "  La  Molina"  or  the  Mill.  Extensive  plant- 
ations of  grain  and  maguey  spread  out  over  a  vast  expanse  of  country, 
and  no  buildings  are  perceptible  until  you  approach  the  edges  of  a  wide 
barranca,  traversed  by  a  stream  from  the  mountains,  freshening  the  ver- 
dure of  clusters  of  shrubbery,  that  conceal  the  rocks  and  rugged  sides 
of  the  ravine.  After  falling  over  a  number  of  precipices,  as  the  glen 
deepens,  and  forming  some  beautiful  cascades,  the  brooklet  gradually 
spreads  out  on  the  flats  to  the  west,  and  here  (niched  in  the  last  steeps  of 
the  tangled  barranca,)  have  been  erected  the  lofty  dwelling,  stores  and 
mills  of  the  farmer  Marquis.  Farther  up  the  glen,  beyond  the  dwelling, 
and  reached  by  a  narrow  entrance  which  almost  bars  approach,  the  taste- 
ful owner  has  formed  the  gorge  through  which  the  stream  gurgles  into  one 
of  the  most  exquisite  retreats  that  can  be  imagined.  The  barranca  is 
quite  narrow  ;  in  its  centre  the  brook  skims  along  over  a  rocky  bed  ;  its 
sides  have  been  smoothed  and  planted ;  grassy  seats  are  built  around 
sward-  covered  recesses ;  rare  flowers  are  imbedded  in  spots,  where, 
shielded  from  the  storms,  they  are  ever  fresh  and  blooming ;  a  tiny 
chapel  is  erected  on  a  jutting  rock,  and  breaks  the  silence  with  its  silvery 
bell ;  and,  over  all,  the  lofty  trees  (meeting  in  a  Gothic  arch  from  bank  to 
bank,)  cast  their  eternal  shade  throughout  the  scarcely  varying  seasons. 
It  is  the  most  beautiful  bijou  of  rural  design  that  I  have  seen  in  Mexico. 
Indeed,  it  is  equalled  by  few,  elsewhere,  and. may  be  regarded  as  the  more 
remarkable,  as  the  whole  has  been  formed  out  of  what  was  once  but  an 
unsightly  gully. 

12th  October.  We  rode  to-day  to  the  Contador,  another  relic  of  Monte- 
zuma. It  is  a  noble  grove  of  cypresses,  about  a  league  northwest  of 
Tezcoco.  It  was,  however,  not  only  our  intention  to  see  those  trees  ;  but 
Don  Ignacio  had  eagerly  persuaded  us  to  join  him  in  a  plover-shooting 
expedition,  on  the  marsh  lands  near  the  lake.  I  was,  therefore,  as  you 
may  well  imagine,  exceedingly  surprised  to  find  our  guide  waiting  at 
'  his  door,  to  accompany  us,  mounted  on  a  bull !  My  first  disposition  was 
to  laugh ;  but  he  prevented  it  by  a  smile,  and  a  request  to  "  wait  until 
we  got  among  the  chichiquillotes,  and  see  what  a  sportsman  his  beast 
was !"  Tio  is  remarkable  for  his  hunting  strategy ;  and,  besides  his 
bull,  (with  which  he  hunts  even  in  the  mountains,)  he  has  invented 
a  pipe  that  perfectly  counterfeits  the  bleating  of  deer ;  and  by  its  sound 
he  has  often  attracted  a  dozen  around  him,  while  lying  concealed  in  the 
coverts  of  the  forest.  Upon  the  whole,  he  is  a  perfect  Yankee  in  inventive 
talent  for  the  destruction  of  game;  and  I  doubt  not  that,  if  it  were  his 


236  .MEXICO. 

lot  to  live  for  a  season  on  the  banks  of  the  Chesapeake,  he  would  manage 
to  convert  himself  occasionally  into  a  stalk  of  "  wild  celery,"  to  decoy  the 
canvas-backs  within  reach  of  his  weapon. 


A  ride  of  an  hour  over  flats,  partially  covered  with  wretched  looking 
salt-works,  brought  us  to  the  grove  of  the  Contador,  which  had  been  dis- 
tinctly visible  as  soon  as  we  left  the  garden  suburb  of  Tezcoco. 

Our  party  led  their  horses  toward  some  higher  ground,  north  of  the 
square,  which  is  formed  by  a  double  line  of  magnificent  cypresses,  near 
five  hundred  in  number,  and  inclosing  about  ten  acres  of  ground — while 
I  (although  warned  by  Ignacio)  kept  on  to  the  interior  of  the  grove,  in- 
tending to  coast  around  the  trees  in  expectation  of  finding  abundance  of 
game.  After  lingering  for. half  an  hour  in  the  grove,  and  finding  my 
labor  useless,  T  thought  it  best  to  take  a  short  cut  across  the  square  in 
order  to  reach  my  companions  ;  but,  scarcely  had  my  horse  advanced  a 
dozen  paces  over  the  apparently  solid  earth,  when  he  suddenly  halted 
and  snorted,  as  if  unwilling  to  proceed.  I  applied  both  whip  and  spur ; 
and,  in  the  next  moment,  he  was  above  his  girths — sinking  in  a  morass ! 
I  sprang  immediately  on  top  of  the  saddle,  and,  seizing  the  lasso,  leaped 
to  the  last  spot  where  the  animal  had  stood  firmly.  In  the  meantime  my 
poor  beast  was  sinking  deeper  and  deeper — and  when,  by  dint  of  the  whip 
and  encouragement,  I  brought  his  head  around,  he  had  already  sunk  to 
the  saddle-cloth.  Rolling  himself  slightly  on  his  side,  he  made  room  to 
lift  his  legs,  and  thus,  gradually  floundered  out  of  the  deceptive  marsh. 
When  I  rejoined  my  friends,  they  congratulated  me  on  escaping  as  for- 
tunately as  I  had  done. 

At  the  northwestern  angle  of  this  square  I  found  a  double  row  of 
cypresses,  running  westwardly  toward  a  dyke.  North  of  this  again,  I 
discovered  a  deep  tank,  of  oblong  shape,  neatly  walled  with  cut  stone, 
and  filled  with  water.  Of  the  great  antiquity  of  all  these  remains 
there  can  be  no  doubt,  and  it  struck  me  that  the  interior  of  the  cypress 
square  was  once  a  pond  or  mimic  lake,  filled  no  doubt  from  the  neighbor- 
ing Tezcoco,  and  forming  part  of  the  gardens  of  the  luxurious  monarchs. 
Unless  this  were  the  case,  it  is  difficult  to  account  for  the  spongy  and 
yielding  mass  in  the  centre  of  the  grove,  while  the  surrounding  grounds 
are  dry  and  cultivated. 

After  lingering  in  the  pleasant  shade  for  an  hour,  and  amusing  our- 
selves with  rifle-shooting  at  zopilotes  perched  on  the  highest  branches  of 
the  cypresses,  we  started  off  (marshalled  by  tio  on  his  bull  Sanrho,) 
toward  the  marshes  that  lay  between  the  grove  and  town.  Just  as  wo 
were  passing  through  a  small  Indian  village  near  the  salt-works,  a  thun- 
der storm  came  on,  and  we  immediately  took  shelter  in  the  house  of  one 
of  Ignacio's  numerous  acquaintances.  The  worthy  man  was  a  candle- 
maker  by  trade,  and  had  a  manufactory  in  full  blast  in  the  adjoining 


AN    ODD    SPORTSMAN.  237 

room.  The  neighborhood,  of  course,  was  anything  but  fragrant ;  yet  he 
drove  out  a  couple  of  sheep,  chickens  and  turkeys  from  a  corner — ar- 
ranged our  saddles  for  chairs  on  the  earthen  floor — and  we  were  soon 
enjoying  a  refreshing  lunch  of  tortillias  and  pulque. 

After  the  shower  had  passed  we  again  sallied  forth}  and  reaching  the 
marshy  flats,  amused  ourselves  with  watching  the  operations  of  Ignacio, 
instead  of  making  war  ourselves  upon  the  delicate  birds.  After  wander- 
ing about  for  some  time  without  starting  game,  Ignacio  at  last  perceived 
a  flock  alight  a  hundred  yards  to  the  north  of  him.  He  dismounted 
immediately — waved  his  hand  to  us  to  remain  quiet — crouched  behind 
the  bull,  and  putting  the  animal  in  motion,  in  the  direction  of  the  birds, 
they  both  crept  on  together  until  within  gunshot.  Here,  by  a  twitch  at 
his  tail,  the  beast  was  stopped,  and  began  munching  the  tasteless  grass 
as  eagerly  as  if  gratifying  a  relishing  appetite.  Ignacio  then  slowly 
raised  his  head  to  a  level  with  the  bull's  spine  and  surveyed  the  field  of 
battle,  while  the  birds  paddled  about  the  fens  unconscious  of  danger. 
Althougn  evidently  within  good  shooting  distance,  the  tio  discovered  that 
he  had  not  precisely  got  a  raking  range ;  and  therefore,  again  dodging 
behind  his  rampart,  put  the  bull  in  motion  for  the  required  spot.  This 
attained,  he  levelled  his  gun  on  the  animal's  back  and  fired — honest 
Sancho  never  stirring  his  head  from  the  grass  !  Several  birds  fell,  while 
the  rest  of  the  flock,  seeing  nothing  but  an  unbelligerent  bull,  scarcely 
flew  more  than  a  dozen  yards  before  they  alighted  again — and  thus,  the 
conspiring  beast  and  sportsman  sneaked  along,  from  shot  to  shot,  until 
nearly  the  whole  flock  was  bagged  ! 

The   result  of  the   afternoon's   work  was  a  plentiful  platter,  around 

which  we  gathered  in  the  hospitable  dwelling  of  L ;  and  not  the 

least  entertainment  of  the  evening  was  a  song  from  the  "  tio"  and  a  wild 
dance  called  "the  Zopilote"  which  he  accomplished  after  several  supple- 
mentary tumblers  of  .capital  pulque. 

13th  October.  Although  our  researches  in  this  neighborhood  are  fin- 
ished, we  can  to-day  get  no  conveyance  to  Mexico.  There  is  not  a 
vehicle  to  be  had  in  the  town ;  the  boats  do  not  leave  until  to-morrow, 
and  I  feel  indisposed  to  undergo  the  fatigue  and  exposure  of  a  day's  jour- 
ney on  horseback  over  the  plains  between  the  lakes. 

I  have  therefore  resolved  to  wait  for  the  Indian  canoes,  and,  in  the 
meantime,  will  connect  some  sketches  of  interesting  ruins  that  I  find  in 
memoranda  made  by  me  during  the  study  of  various  authors  who  have 
written  on  American  and  Mexican  antiquities. 

I  do  so,  because  the  works  in  which  these  subjects  are  discussed  are 
exceedingly  expensive,  and  rarely  to  be  found  either  in  this  country  or 
in  Europe ;  and  I  desire,  moreover,  to  show  how  completely  the  whole 
of  this  country  has,  at  one  time,  been  covered  with  an  active  and  intelli- 
gent population,  the  only  hints  of  whose  history  are  left  in  the  ruins  of 
their  splendid  architecture. 


AN     ACCOUNT 


ANCIENT     REMAINS 


ON    THIS    CONTINENT 


Mounds  and  tumuli  covering  human  relics,  have  been  traced  from 
Wales  across  the  continent,  through  Russia  and  Tartary.  I  have  been 
able  to  find  no  account  of  these  works  on  the  western  side  of  the  Rocky 
mountains,  or  in  the  direction  of  Behring's  Straits ;  but,  from  the  limits 
of  Ouiskonsin,  they  constantly  increase  in  number  and  extent.* 

On  the  south  side  of  Ontario,  one  of  these  remains,  not  far  from  Black 
river,  is,  I  am  informed,  the  farthest  that  has  been  discovered  in  a  north- 
eastern direction.  One  on  the  Chenango  river,  at  Oxford,  is  the  farthest 
south  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Alleghanies,  of  undoubted  and  untradi- 
tional  antiquity. 

In  travelling  westwardly  toward  Lake  Erie,  some  are  to  be  found  in 
Genessee  County,  but  they  are  scarce  and  small  until  we  arrive  at  Cat- 
taraugus Creek,  where,  according  to  the  late  Governor  Clinton,  a  chain 
of  forts  commences,  extending  southwardly  upward  of  fifty  miles,  at  a 
distance  from  each  other  of  not  more  than  four  or  five. 

South  of  these  again,  extensive  works  were  discovered  at  Circleville, 
at  Chillicothe,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Scioto  and  Muskingum,  at  Cincin- 
nati, at  St.  Louis,  and  at  numerous  points  along  the  Valleys  of  the  Ohio 
and  Mississippi. 

Among  these  tumuli  and  fortifications,  a  variety  of  interesting  relics 
have  been  found  by  their  explorers.  Vessels  of  earthenware,  utensils 
of  copper,  painted  pottery,  vases  of  curious  form,  copper  beads,  and  cir- 
cular plates  of  the  same  material,  carvings  in  stone,  silver  and  gold  orna- 
ments; and,  at  Natchez  and  near  Nashville,  idols  of  stone,  which  are  not 
unlike  those  heretofore  represented  in  my  letters  as  existing  in  Mexico. 
Drawings  of  these  idols  are  given  in  the  Archoeologia  Americana,  at  pages 
211  and  215  of  the  first  volume. 

*  Most  interesting  accounts,  accompanied  by  plates,  of  the  ancient  remains  in  Ouiskonsin  Territory,  and  on 
the  (rreat  war-path  from  the  Mississippi  to  Lake  Michigan,  are  to  be  found  in  the  January  number  of  Sillimao'e 
Journal  for  1843,  and  also  in  the  34th  volume  of  that  valuable  work. 


INDIAN    ANTIQUITIES.  239 

Extensive  mural  remains  are  scattered  over  the  immense  plain,  from 
the  southern  shore  of  Lake  Erie  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  may  be 
traced  around  the  Gulf,  across  Texas  into  New  Mexico,  increasing  in 
size  and  splendor  as  they  advance  toward  the  south.  The  student  who  de- 
sires to  examine  the  subject  more  minutely,  may  refer  to  the  before-men- 
tioned volume  of  the  Archseologia  Americana,  where  he  will  find  a  long 
and  interesting  treatise  by  Mr.  Attwater ; — the  plates  of  which  will  illus- 
trate the  size  and  character  of  these  works  more  satisfactorily  than  any 
mere  verbal  descriptions. 

I  have  thus  traced  a  continuous  chain  of  structures,  chiefly  of  earthen 
mounds,  and  trifling  relics  pertaining  to  the  necessaries  of  life,  defence, 
and  worship,  throughout  the  greater  portion  of  our  western  territory  until 
it  joins  the  soil  of  Mexico.  I  will  now  proceed  with  the  account  of  such 
antiquities,  of  an  architectural  character,  besides  those  already  described 
by  me,  as  have  come  to  my  knowledge  in  the  latter  Republic. 

In  the  year  1773,  the  Padre  Francisco  Garces,  accompanied  by  Padre 
Font,  in  the  course  of  their  travels  in  the  northern  departments  of  Mex- 
ico, arrived  at  a  vast  and  beautiful  plain  on  the  south  bank  of  the  river 
Gila,  running  westwardly  from  the  great  chain  of  the  Rocky  mountains, 
and  falling  into  the  Gulf  of  California  between  the  thirty-third  and  thirty- 
fourth  degrees  of  north  latitude.  There  the  travellers  discovered  remains 
of  extensive  works  and  ruins,  covering  a  square  league  of  ground,  in 
the  midst  of  which  was  an  edifice,  called  by  them  the  "  Casa  Grande." 

Like  most  of  the  Indian  works,  it  was  built  of  unburned  bricks,  and 
measured  about  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  length,  by  two  hundred 
and  fifty  in  breadth.  Within  this  edifice  they  found  traces  of  five  apart- 
ments. A  wall,  broken  at  intervals  by  lofty  towers,  surrounded  the  build- 
ing, and  appeared  to  have  been  designed  for  defence.  The  remains  of 
a  canal  were  still  perceptible,  by  which  the  waters  of  the  Gila  had  been 
conveyed  to  the  ruined  town. 

The  neighboring  plains  were  covered  (like  the  ruins  I  have  recently 
described  at  Tezcoco  and  Tezcosingo,)  with  fragments  of  obsidian,  and 
glazed  and  painted  pottery ;  the  Indians  of  the  vicinity  were  found  by 
the  explorers  to  be  mild,  civil,  and  intelligent  people,  devoted  to  the  culti- 
vation of  the  soil,  and  possessing  in  no  degree  the  ferocity  or  savage  hab- 
its of  the  Cumanches  or  Apaches. 

Northwestwardly  from  Chihuahua,  and  southwestwardly  from  these 
ruins,  near  the  thirtieth  degree  of  latitude,  are  similar  remains ;  and  in 
the  mountains  in  the  latitude  of  27°  28',  there  is  a  multitude  of  caverns 
excavated  from  the  solid  rocks,  on  the  sides  and  walls  of  which  are 
painted  the  figures  of  various  animals,  and  of  men  and  women,  in  dresses 
by  no  means  unlike  the  habiliments  of  the  ancient  Mexicans,  as  de- 
picted in  drawings  and  pictures  that  have  been  preserved  until  our  day, 


240  MEXICO. 

Some  of  the  caves  discovered  by  Father  Joseph  Rotea,  are  described  as 
being  thirty  feet  in  length  by  fifteen  in  breadth,  and  are  supposed  by 
writers  to  have  been,  perhaps,  the  "seven  abodes"  from  which  the  Mexi- 
can tradition  describes  their  ancestors  as  having  issued  when  they  be- 
gan their  emigration. 

QUEMADA. 

North  of  the  city  of  Mexico,  in  the  department  of  Zacatecas,  (a  coun* 
try  that  is  supposed  to  have  been  inhabited  by  the  Chicimecas  and  Otto- 
mies  at  the  period  of  the  conquest,)  situated  on  the  level  of  a  hill  top, 
which  rises  out  of  the  plain  like  another  Acropolis,  are  the  extensive  re- 
mains of  an  Indian  city,  known  as  the  "  Ruins  of  Quemada."* 

The  northern  side  of  the  cerro  rises  with  an  easy  slope  from  the  plain, 
and  is  guarded  by  bastions  and  a  double  wall,  while,  on  the  other  sides, 
the  steep  and  precipitous  rocks  of  the  hill  itself,  form  natural  defences. 
The  whole  of  this  elevation  is  covered  with  ruins;  but  on  the  southern 
side,  chiefly,  may  be  traced  the  remains  of  temples,  pyramids,  and  edi- 
fices for  the  priests,  cut  from  the  living  rock,  and  rising  to  the  height  of 
from  two  to  four  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  surrounding  country. 
These  rock-built  walls  are  sometimes  joined  by  mortar  of  no  great  te- 
nacity, and  the  stones  (many  of  which  are  twenty -tioo  feet  in  thickness, 
and  of  a  corresponding  height,)  ai*e  retained  in  their  positions  mainly  by 
their  own  massiveness. 

The  opposite  engraving  represents  the  patio,  or  courtyard  of  a  temple, 
as  drawn  by  M.  NebeJ.  On  the  back  part  of  the  square  is  raised  the 
pyramid,  or  teocalli,  on  which  was  placed  the  altar  and  idol.  The  stairs 
behind  the  teocalli  conduct  to  other  temples  and  pyramids  beyond,  and 
served,  perhaps,  as  seats  for  the  spectators  of  the  bloody  rites  that  were 
celebrated  by  the  priests. 

The  most  satisfactory  account  I  have  seen  of  these  ruins,  is  given  by 
Captain  Lyon  in  a  volume  of  his  travels  in  Mexico. 

"We  set  out,"  says  he,  "on  our  expedition  to  the  Cerro  de  los  Edifi- 
cios,  under  the  guidance  of  an  old  ranchero,  and  soon  arrived  at  the 
foot  of  the  abrupt  and  steep  rock  on  which  the  buildings  are  situated. 
Here  we  perceived  two  ruined  heaps  of  stones,  flanking  the  entrance  to 
a  causeway  ninety-three  feet  broad,  commencing  at  four  hundred  feet 
from  the  cliff.  , 

"  A  space  of  about  six  acres  has  been  inclosed  by  a  broad  wall,  of 
which  the  foundations  are  still  visible,  running  first  to  the  south  and  after- 
ward to  the  east.  Off  its  southwestern  angle  stands  a  high  mass  of 
stones,  which  flanks  the  causeway.  In  outward  appearance  it  is  of  a 
pyramidal  form,  owing  to  the  quantities  of  stones  piled  against  it  either 
by  design  or  by  its  own  ruin  ;  but  on  closer  examination  its  figure  could 

*  Tins  name  has  been  given  from  that  of  an  adjacent  hacienda. 


RUINS    OF    QUEMADA.  241 

be  traced  by  the  remains  of  solid  walls,  to  have  been  a  square  of  thirty- 
one  feet  by  the  same  height :  the  heap  immediately  opposite  is  lower  and 
more  scattered,  but  in  all  probability  formerly  resembled  it.  Hence  the 
grand  causeway  runs  to  the  northeast  until  it  reaches  the  ascent  of  the 
cliff,  which,  as  I  have  already  observed,  is  about  four  hundred  yards  dis- 
tant. Here  again  are  found  two  masses  of  ruins,  in  which  may  be  traced 
the  same  construction  as  that  before  described ;  and  it  is  not  improbable 
that  these  two  towers  guarded  the  inner  entrance  to  the  citadel.  In  the 
centre  of  the  causeway,  which  is  raised  about  a  foot  and  has  its  rough 
pavement  uninjured,  is  a  large  heap  of  stones,  as  if  the  remains  of  some 
altar ;  round  which  we  could  trace,  notwithstanding  the  accumulation  of 
earth  and  vegetation,  a  paved  border  of  flat  slabs  arranged  in  the  figure 
of  a  six-rayed  star. 

"  We  did  not  enter  the  city  by  the  principal  road,  but  led  our  horses 
with  some  difficulty  up  the  steep  mass  formed  by  the  ruins  of  a  defensive 
wall,  inclosing  a  quadrangle  two  hundred  and  forty  feet  by  two  hundred, 
which,  to  the  east,  is  still  sheltered  by  a  strong  wall  of  unhewn  stones, 
eight  feet  in  thickness  and  eighteen  in  height.  A  raised  terrace  of  twenty 
feet  in  width  passes  round  the  northern  and  eastern  sides  of  this  space, 
and  on  its  southeast  corner  is  yet  standing  a  round  pillar  of  rough  stones, 
of  the  same  height  as  the  wall,  and  nineteen  feet  in  circumference. 

"  There  appear  to  have  been  five  other  pillars  on  the  east,  and  four  on 
the  northern  terrace  ;  and  as  the  view  of  the  plain  which  lies  to  the  south 
and  west  is  hence  very  extensive,  I  am  inclined  to  believe  that  the  square 
has  always  been  open  in  these  directions.  Adjoining  to  this,  we  entered 
by  the  eastern  side  to  another  quadrangle,  entirely  surrounded  by  perfect 
walls  of  the  same  height  and  thickness  as  the  former  one,-  and  measuring 
one  hundred  and  fifty-four  feet  by  one  hundred  and  thirty-seven.  In  this 
were  yet  standing  fourteen  very  well-constructed  pillars,  of  equal  dimen- 
sions with  that  in  the  adjoining  inclosure,  and  arranged,  four  in  length 
and  three  in  breadth  of  the  quadrangle,  from  which  on  every  side  they 
separated  a  space  of  twenty-three  feet  in  width:  probably  the  pavement 
of  a  portico  of  which  they  once  supported  the  roof.  In  their  construction, 
as  veil  as  that  of  all  the  walls  which  we  saw,  a  common  clay  having 
straw  mixed  with  it  has  been  used,  and  is  yet  visible  in  those  places 
which  are  sheltered  from  the  rains.  Rich  grass  was  growing  in  the  spa- 
cious court  where  Aztec  monarchs  may  once  have  feasted ;  and  our  cat- 
tle were  so  delighted  with  it  that  we  left  them  to  graze  while  we  walked 
about  three  hundred  yards  to  the  northward,  over  a  very  wide  parapet, 
and  reached  a  perfect,  square,  flat-topped  pyramid  of  large  unhewn 
stones.  It  was  standing  unattached  to  any  other  buildings,  at  the  foot  of 
the  eastern  brow  of  the  mountain,  which  rises  abruptly  behind  it.  On 
the  eastern  face  is  a  platform  of  twenty-eight  feet  in  width,  faced  by  a 
parapet  wall  of  fifteen  feet,  and  from  the  base  of  this  extends  a  second 
platform  with  a  parapet  like  the  former,  and  one  hundred  and  eighteen 
feet  wide.  These  form  the  outer  defensive  boundary  of  the  mountain, 
16 


242  MEXICO. 

which  from  its  figure  has  materially  favored  their  construction.  There 
is  every  reason  to  believe  that  this  eastern  face  must  have  been  of  great 
importance.  A  slightly  raised  and  paved  causeway  of  about  twenty-five 
feet  descends  across  the  valley,  in  the  direction  of  the  rising  sun ;  and 
being  continued  on  the  opposite  side  of  a  stream  which  flows  through  it, 
can  be  traced  up  the  mountains  at  two  miles  distance,  until  it  terminates 
at  the  base  of  an  immense  stone  edifice,  which  probably  may  also  have 
been  a  pyramid.  Although  a  stream  (Rio  del  Partido)  runs  meandering 
through  the  plain  from  the  northward,  about  midway  between  the  two 
elevated  buildings;  I  can  scarcely  imagine  that  the  causeway  should 
have  been  formed  for  the  purpose  of  bringing  water  to  the  city,  which 
is  far  more  easy  of  access  in  many  other  directions  much  nearer  to  the 
river,  but  must  have  been  constructed  for  important  purposes  between  the 
two  places  in  question ;  and  it  is  not  improbable,  that  it  once  formed  the 
street  between  the  frail  huts  of  the  poorer  inhabitants.  The  base  of  the 
large  pyramid  measured  fifty  feet,  and  I  ascertained,  by  ascending  with  a 
line,  that  its  height  was  precisely  the  same.  Its  flat  top  was  covered  with 
earth  and  a  little  vegetation ;  and  our  guide  asserted,  although  he  knew 
not  whence  he  received  the  information,  that  it  was  once  surmounted  by 
a  statue.  Off  the  southeast  corner  of  this  building  and  at  about  fifteen 
yards  distant,  is  to  be  seen  the  edge  of  a  circle  of  stones  about  eight  feet 
in  diameter,  inclosing,  as  far  as  we  could  judge  on  scraping  away  the 
soil,  a  bowl-shaped  pit,  in  which  the  action  of  fire  was  plainly  observable  ; 
and  the  earth,  from  which  we  picked  some  pieces  of  pottery,  was  evi- 
dently darkened  by  an  admixture  of  soot  or  ashes.  At  the  distance  of 
one  hundred  yards  southwest  of  the  large  pyramid,  is  a  small  one,  twelve 
feet  square,  and  much  injured.  This  is  situated  on  somewhat  higher 
ground,  in  the  steep  part  of  the  ascent  to  the  mountain's  brow.  On  its 
eastern  face,  which  is  toward  the  declivity,  the  height  is  eighteen  feet ; 
and  apparently  there  have  been  steps  by  which  to  descend  to  a  quadran- 
gular space,  having  a  broad  terrace  round  it,  and  extending  east  one  hun- 
dred feet  by  a  width  of  fifty.  In  the  centre  of  this  inclosure  is  another 
bowl -shaped  pit,  somewhat  wider  than  the  first.  Hence  we  began  our 
ascent  to  the  upper  works,  over  a  well-buttressed  yet  ruined  wall,  built 
to  a  certain  extent,  so  as  to  derive  advantage  from  the  natural  abruptness 
of  the  rock.  Its  height  on  the  steepest  side  is  twenty-one  feet,  and  the 
width  on  the  summit,  which  is  level,  with  an  extensive  platform,  is  the 
same.  This  is  a  double  wall,  one  of  ten  feet  having  been  first  constructed 
and  then  covered  with  a  very  smooth  kind  of  cement,  after  which  the 
second  has  been  built  against  it.  The  platform  (which  faces  to  the  south, 
and  may  to  a  certain  extent  be  considered  as  a  ledge  from  the  cliff",)  is 
eighty-nine  feet  by  seventy-two ;  and  on  its  northern  centre  stand  the 
ruins  of  a  square  building,  having  within  it  an  open  space  of  tea  feet  by 
eight,  and  of  the  same  depth.  In  thr  middle  of  the  quadrangle  is  to  be 
seen  B  mound  of  Stones  eight  feet  high.  A  little  farther  on,  we  en- 
tered by  a  broad  opening  between  two  perfect  and  massive  walls,  to  a 


RUINS    OF    QDEMADA.  243 

square  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  This  space  was  surrounded  on  the 
south,  east,  and  west,  by  an  elevated  terrace  of  three  feet  by  twelve  in 
breadth,  having  in  the  centre  of  each  side  steps,  by  which  to  descend  to 
the  square.  Each  terrace  was  backed  by  a  wall  of  twenty  feet  by  eight 
or  nine.  From  the  south  are  two  broad  entrances,  and  on  the  east  is  one 
of  thirty  feet,  communicating  v/ith  a  perfect  inclosed  square  of  two  hun- 
dred feet,  while  on  the  west  is  one  small  opening,  leading  to  an  artificial 
cave  or  dungeon,  of  which  I  shall  presently  speak. 

"  To  the  north,  the  square  is  bounded  by  the  steep  mountain  ;  and,  in  the 
centre  of  that  side,  stands  a  pyramid  with  seven  ledges  or  stages,  which 
in  many  places  are  quite  perfect.  It  is  fiat-topped,  has  four  sides,  and 
measures  at  the  base  thirty-eight  by  thirty-five  feet,  while  in  height  it  is 
nineteen.  Immediately  behind  this,  and  on  all  that  portion  of  the  hill 
which  presents  itself  to  the  square,  are  numerous  tiers  of  seats,  either 
broken  in  the  rock  or  built  of  rough  stones.  In  the  centre  of  the  square, 
and  due  south  of  the  pyramid,  is  a  small  quadrangular  building,  seven  feet 
by  five  in  height.  The  summit  is  imperfect,  but  it  has  unquestionably 
been  an  altar  ;  and  from  the  whole  character  of  the  space  in  which  it 
stands,  the  peculiar  form  of  the  pyramid,  the  surrounding  terrace,  and 
the  seats  or  steps  on  the  mountain,  there  can  be  little  doubt  that  this  has 
been  the  grand  Hall  of  Sacrifice  or  Assembly,  or  perhaps  both. 

"  Passing  to  the  westward,  we  next  saw  some  narrow  inclosed  spaces, 
apparently  portions  of  an  aqueduct  leading  from  some  tanks  on  the  sum- 
mit of  the  mountain  ;  and  then  were  shown  the  mouth  of  the  cave,  or  sub- 
terraneous passage,  of  which  so  many  superstitious  stories  are  yet  told 
and  believed.  One  of  the  principal  objects  of  our  expedition  had  been  to 
enter  this  mysterious  place,  which  none  of  the  natives  had  ever  ventured 
to  do,  and  we  came  provided  with  torches  for  the  purpose  :  unfortunately, 
however,  the  mouth  had  very  recently  fallen  in,  and  we  could  merely 
see  that  it  was  a  narrow,  well-built  entrance,  bearing  in  many  places  the 
remains  of  good  smooth  plastering.  A  large  beam  of  cedar  once  sup- 
ported the  roof,  but  its  removal  by  the  country  people  had  caused  the 
dilapidation  which  we  now  observed.  Mr.  Tindal,  in  knocking  out  some 
pieces  of  regularly  burnt  brick,  soon  brought  a  ruin  upon  his  head,  but 
escaped  without  injury  ;  and  his  accident  caused  a  thick  cloud  of  yellow 
dust  to  fall,  which  on  issuing  from  the  cave  assumed  a  bright  appearance 
under  the  full  glare  of  the  sun  ; — an  effect  not  lost  upon  the  natives,  who 
became  more  than  ever  persuaded  that  an  immense  treasure  lay  hidden 
in  this  mysterious  place.  The  general  opinion  of  those  who  remember 
the  excavation  is,  that  it  was  very  deep ;  and,  from  many  circumstances, 
there  is  a  probability  of  its  having  been  a  place  of  confinement  for  vic- 
tims. Its  vicinity  to  the  great  hall,  in  which  there  can  be  little  doubt  that 
the  sanguinary  rites  of  the  Mexicans  were  once  held,  is  one  argument  in 
favor  of  this  supposition ;  but  there  is  another  equally  forcible — its  im- 
mediate proximity  to  a  cliff  of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  down 
which  the  bodies  of  victims  may  have  been  precipitated,  as  was  the  eus- 
16* 


244  MEXICO. 

torn  al  the  inhuman  sacrifices  of  the  Aztecs.*  A  road  or  causeway,  to 
be  noticed  in  another  place,  terminates  at  the  foot  of  this  precipice,  ex- 
actly beneath  the  cave  and  overhanging  rock ;  and  conjecture  can  form 
no  other  idea  of  its  intended  utility,  unless  as  being  in  some  manner  con- 
nected with  the  purposes  of  the  dungeon. 

"  Hence  we  ascend  to  a  variety  of  buildings,  all  constructed  with  the 
same  regard  to  strength,  and  inclosing  spaces  on  far  too  large  a  scale  for 
the  abode  of  common  people.  On  the  extreme  ridge  of  the  mountain 
were  several  tolerably  perfect  tanks. 

"  In  a  subsequent  visit  to  this  extraordinary  place,  I  saw  some  other 
buildings,  which  had  at  first  escaped  my  notice.  These  were  situated  on 
the  summit  of  a  rock  terminating  the  ridge,  at  about  half  a  mile  to  the  N. 
N.W.  of  the  citadel. 

"  The  first  is  a  building  originally  eighteen  feet  square,  but  having  the 
addition  of  sloping  walls  to  give  it  a  pyramidal  form.  It  is  flat-topped, 
and  on  the  centre  of  its  southern  face  there  have  been  steps  by  which  to 
ascend  to  the  summit.  The  second  is  a  square  altar,  its  height  and  base 
being  each  about  sixteen  feet.  These  buildings  are  surrounded  at  no 
great  distance  by  a  strong  wall,  and  at  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  north- 
ward, advantage  is  taken  of  a  precipice  to  construct  another  wall  of 
twelve  feet  in  width  upon  its  brink.  On  a  small  flat  space,  between 
this  and  the  pyramid,  are  the  remains  of  an  open  square  edifice,  to  the 
southward  of  which  are  two  long  mounds  of  stone,  each  extending  about 
thirty  feet ;  and  to  the  northeast  is  another  ruin,  having  large  steps  up 
its  side.  I  should  conceive  the  highest  wall  of  the  citadel  to  be  three 
hundred  feet  above  the  plain,  and  the  bare  rock  surmounts  it  by  about 
thirty  feet  more. 

"  The  whole  place  in  fact,  from  its  isolated  situation,  the  disposition  of 
its  defensive  walls,  and  the  favorable  figure  of  the  rock,  must  have  been 
impregnable  to  Indians;  and  even  European  troops  would  have  found  great 
difficulty  in  ascending  to  those  works,  which  I  have  ventured  to  name  the 
Citadel.  There  is  no  doubt  that  the  greater  mass  of  the  nation  which 
once  dwelt  here,  must  have  been  established  upon  the  plain  beneath,  since 
from  the  summi£  of  the  rock  we  could  distinctly  trace  three  straight  and 
very  extensive  causeways,  diverging  from  that  over  which  we  first  passed. 
The  most  remarkable  of  these  runs  southwest  for  two  miles,  is  forty-six 
feet  in  width,  and,  crossing  the  grand  causeway,  is  continued  to  the  foot  of 
the  cliff,  immediately  beneath  the  cave  which  I  have  described.  Its  more 
distant  extreme  is  terminated  by  a  high  and  long  artificial  mound,  imme- 
diately beyond  the  river,  toward  the  hacienda  of  La  Quemada.  We 
could  trace  the  second,  south  and  southwest  to  a  small  rancho  named 
Coyote,  about  four  miles  distant;  and  the  third  ran  southwest  by  south, 
still  farther,  ceasing,  as  the  country  people  informed  us,  at  a  moun- 
tain six  miles  distant.     All  these  roads  had  been  slightly  raised,  were 

*  The  writings  of  CJavigero,  Bolis.  Bernal  Diaz,  and  others,  describe  this  mode  of  disposing  of  the  bodies  of 
those  whose  hearts  hud  been  torn  out  and  offered  to  the  idol. 


RUINS     OF     QUEMADA.  245 

paved  with  rough  stones,  still  visible  in  many  places  above  the  grass,  and 
were  perfectly  straight. 

"  From  the  flatness  of  the  fine  plain  over  which  they  extended,  I  cannot 
conceive  them  to  have  been  constructed  as  paths,  since  the  people,  who 
walked  barefoot  and  used  no  animals  of  burthen,  must  naturally  have 
preferred  the  smooth,  earthy  footways,  which  presented  themselves  on 
every  side,  to  these  roughly  paved  ones.  If  this  be  allowed,  it  is  not  dif 
ficult  to  suppose  that  they  were  the  centre  of  streets  of  huts,  which,  being 
in  those  times  constructed  of  the  same  kind  of  frail  materials  as  those  of 
the  present  day,  must  long  since  have  disappeared.  Many  places  on  the 
plain  are  thickly  strewed  with  stones,  which  may  once  have  formed  build- 
ing materials  for  the  town ;  and  there  are  extensive  modern  walls  round 
the  cattle  farms,  which,  not  improbably,  were  constructed  from  the  near- 
est streets.  At  all  events,  whatever  end  these  causeways  may  have  an- 
swered, the  citadel  itself  still  remains,  and  from  its  size  and  strength 
confirms  the  accounts  given  by  Cortez,  Bernal  Diaz,  and  others  of  the 
conquerors,  of  the  magnitude  and  extent  of  the  Mexican  edifices,  but 
which  have  been  doubted  by  Robertson,  De  Pau,  and  others.  We  ob- 
served also,  in  some  sheltered  places,  the  remains  of  good  plaster,  con- 
firming the  accounts  above  alluded  to ;  and  there  can  be  little  doubt  that 
the  present  rough,  yet  magnificent  buildings,  were  once  encased  in  wood 
and  whitened,  as  ancient  Mexico,  the  towns  of  Yucatan,  Tobasco,  and 
many  other  places  are  described  to  have  been.* 

"  The  Cerro  de  los  Edificios,  and  the  mountains  of  the  surrounding 
range,  are  all  of  gray  porphyry,  easily  fractured  into  slabs,  and  this,  with 
comparatively  little  labor,  has  furnished  building-materials  for  the  edifices 
which  crown  its  summit.  We  saw  no  remnants  of  obsidian  among  the 
ruins  or  on  the  plain — which  is  remarkable,  as  being  the  general  sub- 
stance of  which  the  knives  and  arrow-heads  of  the  Mexicans  were 
formed  ;f  but  a  few  pieces  of  a  very  compact  porphyry  were  lying  about, 
and  some  appeared  to  have  been  chipped  to  a  rude  form  resembling  arrow- 
heads. 

"  Not  a  trace  of  the  ancient  name  of  this  interesting  place,  or  that  of 
the  nation  which  inhabited  it,  is  now  to  be  found  among  the  people  in  the 
neighborhood,  who  merely  distinguished  the  isolated  rock  and  buildings  by 
one  common  name,  'Los  Edificios.'  I  had  inquired  of  the  best  instructed 
people  about  these  ruins ;  but  all  my  researches  were  unavailing,  until  I 
fortunately  met  with  a  note  in  the  Abbe  Clavigero's  History  of  Mexico, 
which  throws  some  light  on  the  subject.  '  The  situation  of  Chicomoztoc, 
where  the  Mexicans  sojourned  nine  years,  is  not  known ;  but  it  appears 
to  be  that  place,  twenty  miles  distant  from  Zacatecas,  toward  the  south, 
where  there  are  still  some  remains  of  an  immense  edifice,  which,  accord- 

*  See  the  Voyage  of  Juan  de  Grijalva,  in  1518 ;  also  Bernal  Diaz,  Cortez,  Clavigero,  and  others. 

t  It  is  not  improbable,  however,  that  this  material  was  unknown  to  the  nation  who  dwelt  here,  if,  according 
to  the  Abbe  Clavigero,  this  city  was  one  of  the  earliest  settlements  of  the  Aztecs,  before  they  established  them- 
selves in  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  near  which  (at  Real  del  Monte  principally)  the  obsidian  is  found  in  great  abun- 
dance, although  1  believe  that  no  traces  of  it  are  seen  in  the  more  northern  provinces. 


246 


MEXICO. 


ing  to  the  tradition  of  the  Zacatecanos,  the  ancient  inhabitants  of  that 
country,  was  the  work  of  the  Aztecs  on  their  migration  ;  and  it  certainly 
cannot  be  ascribed  to  any  other  people,  the  Zacatecanos  themselves  being 
so  barbarous  as  neither  to  live  in  houses  nor  to  know  how  to  build  them.'  "* 


MAPILCA. 

Following  the  course  of  the  river  Tecolutla  from  its  mouth  near 
Nautla,  and  directing  himself  across  the  Virgin  mountains  and  plains,  Mr. 
Nebel  found,  at  the  distance  of  a  few  leagues  from  Papantla,  the  ruins 
of  a  city,  near  an  Indian  rancho  called  Mapilca. 

It  is  impossible,  he  states,  to  define  precisely  the  limits  of  this  ancient 
work,  because  it  is  now  entirely  covered  with  thick  vegetation,  and  a 
forest,  the  silence  of  which  has,  perhaps,  never  been  disturbed  by  an  axe. 
He  nevertheless  discovered  some  pyramids,  many  large  sculptured  stones, 
and  some  other  indications  of  an  extensive  city  and  civilized  people. 


SCULPTURED      STONE     AT      MAPILCA. 

*  Clavigero,  vol.  i.  book  ii.  p.  153.— Torquemnda  snys,  that  the  capital  city  of  the  Cherhemocos  was  called 
Amiiqueninrnn.  He  snys  this  place  was  600  miles  distant  from  where  the  city  of  Guadalnxurn  now  stands. 
Clavigero,  who  quote)  I  bis  passage  and  comments  upon  it  in  a  note,  remarks  that  "in  more  lhan  one  thousand  two 
hundri  i  (tiles  of  inhabited  couptry  beyond  that  city,  there  is  not  the  least  trace  or  memory  of  Amaquemacan." 
l\i.'v  not  the  city  I  have  described  be  the  capital  in  question  1 


TKMPI.E   AT  TUSAPAN. 


RUINS    OF    TUSAPAN.  247 

The  stone,  represented  in  the  cut,  is  twenty-one  feet  long  and  of  compact 
granite ;  its  carving  is  oddly  different  from  anything  else  we  have  seen 
among  Mexican  antiquities,  and  it  is  supposed,  by  Nebel,  to  have  formed 
part  of  an  edifice.  He  caused  an  excavation  to  be  made  by  the  Indians  in 
front  of  this  fragment,  and,  at  a  short  distance  below  the  surface,  struck 
upon  a  road  formed  of  irregular  stones,  not  unlike  the  ancient  pavements 
in  the  neighborhood  of  Rome.  The  picturesque  traveller  (whose  book,  I 
regret,  is  too  large  and  expensive  for  republication  in  our  country,)  ex- 
ceedingly regrets  that  he  was  unable  to  prosecute  his  inquiries  and  exam- 
inations in  this  neighborhood.  He  was  alone,  and  unaided  in  the  forests, 
except  by  a  few  idle  and  ignorant  Indians ;  yet  he  has  presented  his 
readers  with  a  drawing  of  this  curious  fragment,  as  the  sign  of  a  civili- 
zation that  once  reigned  in  a  country  which  was  hitherto  imagined  to  have 
been  inhabited  alone  by  wild  beasts  and  reptiles. 


TUSAPAN. 


We  have  now  advanced,  in  the  course  of  this  examination,  into  the 
tierra  caliente,  near  the  eastern  coast  of  Mexico.  Fifteen  leagues  west 
from  Papantla,  lie  the  remains  of  Tusapan,  supposed  to  have  been  a  city 
of  the  Totonacos.  They  are  situated  in  the  lap  of  a  small  plain  at  the 
foot  of  the  Cordillera,  and  are  relics  of  a  town  of  but  limited  extent. 
Of  all  these,  however,  nothing  remains  in  great  distinctness  but  the  pyr- 
amidal monument,  or  Teocalli,  of  which  the  opposite  drawing  is  given  by 
Nebel. 

This  edifice  has  a  base  line  of  thirty  feet  on  every  side,  and  is  built  of 
irregular  stones.  A  single  stairway  leads  to  the  upper  part  of  the  first 
story,  on  which  was  erected  a  quadrangular  house  or  tower, — while,  in 
front  of  the  door,  still  stands  the  pedestal  of  the  idol,  though  all  traces 
of  the  figure  itself  are  gone.  The  interior  of  this  apartment  is  twelve  feel 
square,  and  the  roof  terminates  in  a  point  like  the  exterior.  The  walls 
have  evidently  been  painted,  but  the  outlines  of  the  figures  are  no  longer 
distinguishable. 

The  door  and  the  two  friezes  are  foi'med  of  sculptured  stones ;  but  it  is 
evident  from  the  fragments  of  carving,  and  a  variety  of  figures  of  men 
and  animals  that  lie  in  heaps  about  the  rest  of  the  city,  that  this  temple 
was,  in  point  of  adornment,  by  no  means  the  most  splendid  edifice  of 
Tusapan. 

Nebel  has  also  presented  us  with  a  drawing  of  the  following  singular 
monument,  which  he  found  among  the  ruins  of  this  ancient  city. 


248 


MEXICO. 


FOUNTAIN     AT     TUSAPAN, 


It  is  a  statue,  nineteen  feet  high,  cut  from  the  solid  rock.  The  dress 
clearly  indicates  the  figure  to  be  that  of  a  squatting  woman,  with  her  head 
inclining  on  one  side.  Behind  the  head,  there  are  remains  of  a  pipe  con- 
veying water  to  the  body,  through  which  it  passed  somewhat  in  the  style  of 
the  celebrated  fountain  of  Antwerp.  From  this  figure,  the  stream  was  car- 
ried by  a  small  canal  to  the  neighboring  city,  and  the  whole  is  supposed, 
by  Monsieur  Nebel,  to  have  been  dedicated  as  the  idol  of  some  god  or 
goddess  of  the  waters. 

There  is  a  tradition  extant  that  the  people  who  once  inhabited  Tusapan, 
finding  their  soil  comparatively  steril,  and  their  springs  failing,  emigrated 
to  Papantla, — to  which  we  come  next  in  the  course  of  our  antiquarian 
ramble. 

PAPANTLA. 


The  village  of  that  name  lies  sixteen  leagues  from  the  sea,  and  fifty- 
two  north  from  Vera  Cruz,  at  the  base  of  the  eastern  mountains,  in  the 
midst  of  fertile  savannahs,  constantly  watered  by  streams  from  the  neigh- 


PYRAMID  OF  rAI'ANTI.A. 


RUINS     OF    PAPANTLA.  249 

boring  hills.  Although  it  is  the  centre  of  a  country  remarkable  for 
fertility,*  the  Indian  village  has  scarcely  a  white  inhabitant,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  Curate  and  some  few  dealers,  who  come  from  the  coast  to 
traffic  their  wares  for  the  products  of  the  soil.  The  people  of  the  upper 
country  dislike  to  venture  into  the  heat  and  disease  of  the  tierra  caliente  ; 
and,  in  turn,  its  inhabitants  dislike  an  exposure  to  the  chills  of  the  tierras 
frias  or  templadas.  Thus  the  region  of  Papantla,  two  leagues  from  the 
village,  has  hitherto  remained  an  unexplored  nook,  even  at  the  short  dis- 
tance of  fifty  miles  from  the  coast ;  and,  although  it  was  alluded  to  by 
Baron  Humboldt,  it  had  never  been  correctly  drawn,  or  even  accurately 
described  before  the  visit  of  M.  Nebel.  The  neighboring  Indians,  even, 
had  scarcely  seen  it,  and  considerable  local  knowledge  was  required  to 
trace  a  path  to  the  relic  through  the  wild  and  tangled  forest. 

There  is  no  doubt,  from  the  masses  of  ruins  spread  over  the  plain,  that 
this  city  was  more  than  a  mile  and  a  half  in  circuit.  Although  there 
seems  good  reason  to  believe  that  it  was  abandoned  by  its  builders  after 
the  conquest,  there  has  still  been  time  enough,  both  for  the  growth  of  the 
forest  in  so  warm  and  prolific  a  climate,  and  for  the  gradual  destruction 
of  the  buildings  by  the  seasons  and  other  causes.  Indeed,  huge  trees, 
trailing  plants  and  parasite  vines  have  struck  their  roots  among  the  cran- 
nies and  joints  of  the  remaining  pyramid,  and,  in  a  few  years  more,  will 
consign  even  that  remnant  to  the  common  fate  of  the  rest  of  the  city. 

The  opposite  plate  presents  a  view  of  the  pyramid,  (called  by  the 
natives,  "  El  Tajin,")  as  seen  by  Nebel,  after  he  had  cleared  it  of  trees 
and  foliage.  It  consists  of  seven  stories,  each  following  the  same  angle 
of  inclination,  and  each  terminated,  as  at  Xochicalco,  by  a  frieze  and 
cornice.  The  whole  of  these  bodies  are  constructed  of  sand-stone,  neatly 
squared  and  joined, — and  covered,  to  the  depth  of  three  inches,  with  a 
strong  cement,  which  appears,  from  the  remains  of  color  in  many  places,  to 
have  been  entirely  painted.  The  pyramid  measures  precisely  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty  feet  on  every  side,")"  and  is  ascended,  in  front,  by  a  stair- 
way of  fifty-seven  steps,  divided  in  three  places,  by  small  box-like  recesses 
or  niches  two  feet  in  depth,  similar  to  those  which  are  seen  perforating 
the  frieze  of  each  of  the  bodies.  This  stairway  terminates  at  the  top  of 
the  sixth  story,  the  seventh  appearing  (although  in  ruins,)  to  have  been 
unlike  the  rest,  and  hollow.  Here,  most  probably,  was  the  shrine  of  the 
divinity  and  the  place  of  sacrifice. £ 


*  The  productions  here  are  vanilla,  sarsaparilla,  pepper,  wax,  cotton,  coffee,  tobacco,  a  variety  of  valuable 
woods,  and  sugar,  produced  annually  from  canes,  which  it  is  necessary  to  plant  only  every  seven  or  eight  years. 

t  Nebel  does  not  give  the  elevation,  but  says  there  are  57  steps  to  the  top  of  the  sixth  story— each  step  meas- 
uring one  foot  in  height. 

t  Vide  Humboldt,  vol.  ii.,  345-and  Nebel. 


250  MEXICO 


MISA.NTLA. 


Passing  by  the  Island  of  Sacrificios,  (of  which  I  have  already  given 
some  account,  when  treating  of  the  Museum  of  Mexico,)  I  will  now  de- 
scribe the  ruins  that  were  discovered  as  recently  as  1835,  adjacent  to 
Misantla,  near  the  city  of  Jalapa  and  not  very  far  from  the  direct  road 
to  the  Capital. 

The  work  from  which  I  extract  my  information  is  the  Mosaico  Mexi- 
cano,  to  which  it  was  contributed,  I  believe,  by  Don  Isidrio  Gondra. 

On  a  lofty  ridge  of  mountains  in  the  Canton  of  Misantla,  there  is  a  hill 
called  Estillero,  (distant  some  thirty  miles  from  Jalapa,)  near  which  lies 
a  mountain  covered  with  a  narrow  strip  of  table-land,  perfectly  isolated 
from  the  surrounding  country  by  steep  rocks  and  inaccessible  barrancas. 
Beyond  these  dells  and  precipices  there  is  a  lofty  wall  of  hills,  from  the 
summit  of  one  of  which  the  sea  is  distinctly  visible  in  the  direction  of 
Nautla.  The  only  parts  of  the  country  by  which  this  plain  is  accessi- 
ble, are  the  slopes  of  Estillero ; — on  all  other  sides  the  solitary  mountain 
seems  to  have  been  separated  from  the  neighboring  land  by  some  violent 
earthquake  that  sunk  the  earth  to  an  unfathomed  depth. 

On  this  secluded  and  isolated  eminence,  are  situated  the  remains  of  an 
ancient  city.  As  you  approach  the  plain  by  the  slopes  of  Estillero,  a 
broken  wall  of  large  stones,  united  by  a  weak  cement,  is  first  observable. 
This  appears  to  have  served  for  protection  to  a  circular  plaza,  in  the  cen- 
tre of  which  is  a  pyramid  eighty  feet  high,  forty-nine  feet  front,  and  forty- 
two  in  depth. 

The  account  does  not  state  positively  whether  this  edifice  is  constructed 
of  stone,  but  it  is  reasonable  to  suppose  that  it  is  so  from  the  wall  found 
around  the  plaza,  and  the  remains  which  will  be  subsequently  mentioned. 
It  is  divided  into  three  stories,  or  rather,  there  are  three  still  remaining. 
On  the  broadest  front,  a  stairway  leads  to  the  second  body,  which,  in  turn, 
is  ascended  at  the  side,  while  the  top  of  the  third  is  reached  by  steps  cut 
in  the  corner  edge  of  the  pyramid.  In  front  of  the  teocalli,  on  the  second 
story,  are  two  pilastral  columns,  which  may  have  formed  pari  of  a  stair- 
case ;  but  this  portion  of  the  pyramid,  and  especially  the  last  body,  is  so 
overgrown  with  trees  that  its  outline  is  considerably  injured.  On  the  very 
top,  (driving  its  roots  into  the  spot  that  was  doubtless  formerly  the  holy 
place  of  the  Temple,)  there  is  a  gigantic  tree,  which,  from  its  immense 
size  in  this  comparatively  high  and  temperate  region,  denotes  a  long  period 
since  the  abandonment  of  the  altar  where  it  grows. 

At  the  periphery  of  the  circular  plaza  around  this  pyramid,  commence 
the  remains  of  a  town,  extending  northerly  in  a  straight  line  for  near  a 
league.  Immense  square  blocks  of  stone  buildings,  separated  by  streets 
at  the  distance  of  about  three  hundred  yards  from  each  other,  mark  the 


PYRAMID  OK  M1SANTI..A. 


RUINS     OF     MISANTLA    AND     MITLA.  251 

sites  of  the  ancient  habitations,  fronting  upon  four  parallel  highways. 
In  some  of  the  houses  the  walls  are  still  three  or  four  feet  high,  but  of 
most  of  them  there  is  nothing  but  an  outline  traoery  of  the  mere  founda- 
tions. On  the  south,  there  are  the  remains  of  a  long  and  narrow  Avail, 
which  defended  the  city  in  that  quarter. 

North  of  the  town  there  is  a  tongue  of  land,  occupied  in  the  centre  by 
a  mound,  or  cemetery.  On  the  left  slope  of  the  hill  by  which  the  ruins 
are  reached,  there  are,  also,  twelve  circular  sepulchres,  two  yards  and  a 
half  in  diameter,  and  as  many  high ;  the  walls  are  all  of  neatly  cut 
stone,  but  the  cement  with  which  they  were  once  joined  has  almost  en- 
tirely disappeared.  In  these  sepulchres  several  bodies  were  found,  parts 
of  which  were  in  tolerable  preservation. 

Two  stones — a  foot  and  a  half  long,  by  half  a  foot  wide — were  discov- 
ered, bearing  hieroglyphics,  which  are  described,  in  general  terms,  as 
"  resembling  the  usual  hieroglyphics  of  the  Indians."  Another  figure 
was  found  representing  a  man  standing ;  and  another,  cut  out  of  a  firm 
but  porous  stone,  which  was  intended  to  portray  a  person  sitting  cross- 
legged,  with  the  arms  also  crossed,  resting  on  his  knees.  This,  however, 
was  executed  in  a  very  inferior  style.  Near  it,  were  discovered  many 
domestic  utensils,  which  were  carried  to  Vera  Cruz,  whence  they  have 
been  dispersed,  perhaps,  to  the  four  quarters  of  the  globe. 

It  is  thus,  in  the  neglect  of  all  antiquities  in  Mexico,  in  the  midst  of 
her  political  distractions  and  bloody  revolutions,  that  every  vestige  of  her 
former  history  will  gradually  pass  to  foreign  countries,  instead  of  enrich- 
ing the  Cabinets  of  her  University,  and  stimulating  the  inquisitiveness  of 
her  scientific  students. 


MITLA , 


I  will  close  this  notice  of  Mexican  Architectural  Remains,  With  an 
account  of  the  ruins  of  Mitla,  as  described  by  Mr.  Glennie,  and  Baron 
Humboldt,  from  whose  great  work  the  sketch  of  one  of  the  mural  frag- 
ments opposite  the  next  page,  has  been  taken. 

In  the  Department  of  Oaxaca,  ten  leagues  distant  from  the  city  of  that 
name,  on  the  road  to  Tehuantepec,  in  the  midst  of  a  granitic  country, 
surrounded  by  sombre  and  gloomy  scenery,  lie  the  remains  of  what  have 
been  called,  by  the  general  consent  of  antiquarians,  the  Sepulchral 
Palaces  of  Mitla.  According  to  tradition,  they  were  built  by  the  Zapo- 
tecs,  and  intended  as  the  places  of  sepulture  for  their  Princes.  At  the 
death  of  members  of  the  royal  family,  their  bodies  were  entombed  in  the 
vaults  beneath ;  and  the  sovereign  and  his  relatives  retired  to  mourn  over 
the  loss  of  the  departed  scion,  in  the  chambers  above  these  solemn  abodes, 
screened  by  dark  and  silent  groves  from  the  public  eye.  Another  tra- 
dition devotes  the  edifices  to  a  sect  of  priests,  whose  duty  it  was  to  live 


252  MEXICO. 

in  perfect  seclusion,  and  offer  expiatory  sacrifices  for  the  royal  dead  who 
reposed  in  the  vaults  beneath. 

The  village  of  Mitla  was  formerly  called  Miguitlan,  signifying,  in  the 
Mexican  tongue,  "  a  place  of  sadness;"  and,  by  the  Zapotecs,  Leoba,  or 
"The  tomb." 

These  palace-tombs  formed  three  edifices,  symmetrically  placed  on  a 
romantic  site.  The  principal  building  (which  is  still  in  the  best  pres- 
ervation,) has  a  length  of  near  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  A  stairway 
leads  to  a  subterranean  apartment  of  about  one  hundred  feet  by  thirty  in 
width,  the  walls  of  which  are  covered  with  ornaments,  a  la  greqae,  simi- 
lar to  those  that  adorn  the  exterior  walls  represented  in  the  drawing. 
These  ornaments  are  inlaid  in  a  mosaic  of  porphyritic  stones,  and  resem- 
ble the  figures  found  on  Etruscan  vases,  and  on  the  frieze  of  the  temple 
of  the  god  Redicolus,  near  the  Egerian  grotto  at  Rome. 

The  engraved  fragment  represents  a  corner  of  one  of  the  edifices,  and 
you  cannot  fail  to  remark  a  similarity  to  some  of  the  designs  presented  to 
the  public  by  Mr.  Catherwood,  in  his  researches  farther  south. 

The  ruins  of  Mitla  are  distinguished,  I  believe,  from  all  the  remains  of 
ancient  architectm*e  in  Mexico,  by  six  columns  of  porphyry,  placed  in  the 
midst  of  a  large  saloon,  and  supporting  the  ceiling.  They  have  neither 
bases  nor  capitals,  and  are  cut,  in  a  gradually  tapering  shape,  from  a  solid 
stone  rather  more  than  fifteen  feet  in  length.  The  dimensions  of  the 
stones  that  cover  the  entrances  of  the  principal  halls,  are  stated  by  Mr. 
Glennie  to  be  as  follows  : 


1 

Length. 

19  feet  6  inches. 

Breadth. 

4  feet  10  inches. 

Thickness. 

3  feet  4  inches, 

2 

18    "    8     " 

4     "    10       " 

3    "     6     " 

3 

19    '•'    4     " 

4     "    10£    " 

3    "     9     " 

Mr.  De  Laguna  has  discovered,  among  the  ruins,  some  curious  paint- 
ings of  war  trophies  and  sacrifices ;  and  Humboldt  remarks,  that  the 
distribution  of  the  apartments  in  the  interior  of  this  building  presents 
some  striking  similarities  to  the  monuments  of  Upper  Egypt,  as  de- 
scribed by  Mr.  Denon,  and  the  savans  of  the  Institute  of  Cairo.  "  In 
comparing  the  grandeur  of  these  tombs  with  the  meanness  of  the  habita- 
tions of  the  former  race,"  says  the  Baron,  "  we  may  exclaim,  with  Dio- 
dorus  Siculus,  that  there  are  people  who  erect  their  most  sumptuous 
monuments  for  their  dead  alone,  regarding  existence  as  too  short  and 
transitory  to  be  worth  the  trouble  of  erections  for  the  living  !"f 

It  was  the  same  in  Egypt.  The  hereafter,  and  not  the  present,  en- 
gaged the  hearts  of  its  ancient  race.  In  Mexico,  the  temple  to  worship 
in,  and  the  tomb  for  final  repose,  seem  to  have  been  the  chief  care  of  the 

*  The  reader  will  find  a  ground  plan  of  these  remains  in  Delafield's  "  Antiquities  of  America"— page  55,  taken 
from  Baron  Humboldt's  Atlas, 
t  Vide  Humboldt,  vol.  ii,  page  322.  et  seq.    Paris  edition,  1811. 


Scale  of  Varas. 


RUINS  AT  MITLA. 


THE    HONEST    HUNTER.  253 

people.  It  was  a  pious  and  philosophic  devotion  of  time,  worthy  as  well 
of  Christian  nations  as  of  those  believing  in  the  necessary  care  of  their 
worthless  bodies,  until  the  period  of  their  ultimate  reunion  with  the  spirit. 

I  have  thus  hastily  gathered  together  some  sketches  of  the  remains  that 
cover  our  Continent  from  the  remote  north  of  our  own  possessions  to  near 
the  region  of  Mr.  Stephens's  discoveries. 

If  they  fail  to  identify  the  Southern  nations  with  the  Northern  tribes,  or 
to  prove  that  the  rude  mound  of  the  savage  was  but  the  precursor  of 
the  stone  pyramid  of  the  civilized  southern,  they  will  at  least  serve  to 
show  that  at  the  north,  as  well  as  in  more  genial  climates,  there  have 
been  races  who  worshipped  the  Great  Spirit,  buried  their  dead,  defended 
themselves  from  their  foes,  and  possessed,  at  least,  a  partial  taste  for  the 
refinements  of  life.  At  all  events,  it  is  not  probable  that  the  remains  so 
plentifully  sprinkled  over  the  Mexican  territory,  from  the  Rio  Gila  to  the 
limits  of  Oaxaca,  were  untenanted  and  unused  at  the  period  of  the  con- 
quest, while  it  is  known  that  the  cities  of  Mexico  and  of  Cholula  contained 
within  their  limits  magnificent  edifices,  devoted  to  the  domestic  comfort 
and  public  worship  of  a  refined  and  numerous  population. 


HOME. 


14th  October.  Returned  to  Mexico.  The  last  person  who  bade  us  fare- 
well in  Tezcoco,  was  the  worthy  Tio  Ignacio — of  whose  hunting-bull, 
deer-call,  rough  honesty,  and  wild  adventures,  I  shall  long  retain  a  pleas- 
ing recollection. 

"I  am  poor,  Caballero,"  said  he,  with  a  grasp  of  his  hard  hand,  "I  am 
poor,  and  have  led  a  dog's  life  of  it  from  the  age  of  five  years — fighting, 
bull-catching,  beef-selling,  hunting  and  living  with  the  Indians  up  in  the 
mountains  for  weeks,  with  no  covering  but  my  blanket  and  a  pine  tree ; — 
but  I  have  managed,  nevertheless,  to  raise  a  large  family  of  boys,  every 
one  of  whom  can  ride  better  than  I  can;  catch  a  bull  at  full  gallop;  know 
how  to  read  and  write  ;  tell  the  truth ;  obey  their  father  without  question- 
ing, and  hit  the  mark  at  eighty  varasf  I  owe  no  man  a  claco.  I  love 
my  horse,  my  gun,  my  pulque, — and,  better  than  all,  I  love  my  old  wife, 
who,  with  all  my  wildness,  passion,  and  temper,  has  never  quarrelled 
with  me  in  a  casamiento  of  twenty  years!  Who  says  as  much  in  Mexico? 
Vaya  ! 

"  Come  to  Tezcoco  once  more,  Caballero,  and  we  will  go  up  to  Tlaloc — 
together  with  my  people,  'the  Indians,  and  I'll  make  that  old  demonio  give 
up  some  of  the  bones  of  his  ancestors— pz'caro  /     Adios!" 


LETTER    XXV. 

WHENCE  CAME  THE  ANCIENT  POPULATION  ?     WHO  BUILT  THE  ANCIENT  CITIES  ? 
WHO  WORSHIPPED  THE  IDOLS  ? 


After  this  somewhat  extended  inspection  of  the  Monuments  of  Mexi- 
can antiquity,  the  question  naturally  proposes  itself  to  our  minds  : — Who 
were  the  builders  of  these  temples,  the  worshippers  of  the  idols,  and 
whence  did  they  come  ?  Separated  now  by  wide  and  lonely  seas  from  the 
Continents  of  the  Old  World,  was  there  once  a  period  when  the  lands  were 
united,  and  the  same  race  spread  over  both  ?  Or,  are  we  to  doubt  the 
traditional  and  written  histories  of  ages,  and  believe  that  an  original  race 
peopled  the  American  wilds,  and  built  and  worshipped  after  the  prompt- 
ings of  their  own  spirits  ? 

These  are  questions  that  have  puzzled  and  must  continue  to  puzzle  the 
antiquarians  of  both  hemispheres.  They  cannot  be  solved.  The  tradi- 
tions— the  habits — the  languages — the  edifices — of  all  tribes,  races,  and 
nations,  have  been  studied  and  contrasted  without  result.  Separate  theo- 
ries have  been  earnestly  and  ingeniously  advanced.  First,  that  the 
inhabitants  came  by  the  north  and  through  Behring's  Straits.  Second, 
that  they  came  by  the  islands  of  the  Pacific,  or  that  in  times  long  past, 
the  Pacific  was  not  all  sea,  but  partly  filled,  perhaps,  with  a  vast  Conti- 
nent— and  Third,  that  they  may  have  arrived  from  the  Old  World  by  the 
Atlantic.  There  are  long  periods  of  unwritten  and  even  untraditional 
history  of  the  world,  and  learned  and  pious  geologists  seem  now  to  be 
agreed  in  believing  that  when  it  is  declared  :  "  In  the  beginning  God  cre- 
ated the  heaven  and  the  earth,"  it  is  not  affirmed  that  God  created  the 
heaven  and  the  earth  on  the  first  day,  but  that  "this  'beginning'  may  have 
been  an  epoch,  at  an  unmeasured  distance,  followed  by  periods  of  unde- 
fined duration,  during  which  all  the  jriiysical  operations  disclosed  by  geol- 
ogy were  going  on."* 

This  is  certainly  satisfactory  as  to  the  formation  of  the  earth — a 
mere  fulcrum  for  the  development  and  powers  of  a  future  human  race. 
But,  must  not  the  Bible  be  considered  a  full  historical  account  of  "all 
the  operations  of  the  Creator  in  times  and  places  with  which  that  human 

*Buokland,  vol.  i.  p. 26. 


PEOPLING    OF    AMERICA.  255 

race  is  concerned  ?"  Is  it  daring  to  question  this  ?  How  small  is  the 
geographical  space  covered  by  the  history  of  the  Old  Testament  !  It  is 
an  established  fact,  that  the  whole  of  the  animal  races  are  not  common  to 
both  Continents.  A  great  variety  of  quadrupeds  have  been  found  in 
America  that  were  unknown  in  Europe,  and  the  same  is  true  in  regard 
to  birds  and  fish. 

It  is  difficult  to  touch  this  question,  without  interfering  with  the  authority 
of  the  Pentateuch  ;  but  if  we  were  at  liberty  to  discuss  such  matters,  there 
are  few  who  would  not  hold  the  doctrine,  that  it  is  perfectly  reconcilable 
with  rational  science  to  believe,  that  the  two  Continents  existed  contempo- 
raneously from  the  oldest  periods,  filled  with  distinct  races,  of  separate 
customs,  manners,  habits  and  languages  ;  who,  by  the  simple  and  natural 
impulses  of  humanity  arrived  at  similar  results,  in  religion,  science,  archi- 
tecture and  government.  Animals  found  in  both  hemispheres  arrive  at 
the  same  results — why  may  not  man  ?  It  is  replied,  that  they  are  guided 
alone  by  instincts  ?  Is  it  not  by  his  instincts,  improved  by  his  reason, 
that  man,  too,  is  led  to  every  operation  of  his  varied  life  ?  By  the  ruins 
which  are  left,  of  what  those  instincts  and  reason  once  produced  on  this 
Continent,  we  are  alone  enabled  to  judge  of  our  ancestors.  Defence — pro- 
tection from  the  weather — religion — the  calculation  of  time — the  necessity 
of  food  ;-*-these  are  the  chief  instinctive  wants  and  promptings  of  man's 
nature.  Men  suffer  from  the  seasons,  from  sun  and  shower, — hence  dwel- 
lings. Men  have  a  natural  feeling  of  adoration,  gratitude,  dependence, — 
hence  religion,  groves,  altars,  mounds,  and  even  pyramids,  as  they  advance 
in  civilization.  Men  behold  the  natural  changes  of  day  and  night ;  the 
motion  of  the  sun,  moon  and  stars ;  they  note  that  there  is  an  equality 
of  time  and  season,  and  that  these  are  comparatively  of  longer  or  shorter 
duration  at  different  periods  of  the  year, — and  hence  a  calendar.  Men 
are  social,  and  congregate  into  societies,  and  in  the  process  of  time  their 
natural  passions  beget  discontent  and  wars, — hence  fortifications  and 
weapons  of  defence.  Men  hunger, — and  hence  the  invention  of  instruments 
by  which  they  succeed  in  the  sports  of  the  field,  or  control  the  chase. 
And,  at  length,  with  all  the  elements  of  civilized  society  around  them,  in 
shrines,  bulwarks,  domestic  retreats,  arsenals,  social  love,  and  national 
glory — they  come  to  have  a  history  ;  and,  with  the  laudable  desire  of  per- 
petuating the  memory  of  themselves  and  of  their  epoch,  you  find  at  Pa- 
lenque,  as  well  as  in  Egypt  and  on  the  Ganges,  those  figured  monuments 
which  tell  the  tale  of  the  departed  great,  by  symbols,  letters,  paintings  or 
hieroglyphics. 

Now,  separated  by  thousands  of  leagues  of  sea  from  the  Eastern  hem- 
isphere, and  with  men  who  had  no  means,  but  the  frail  canoe,  of  transport- 
ing themselves  over  it,  you  suddenly  alight  on  these  shores,  in  the  midst 
of  the  sixteenth  century ; — and  find  temples,  idols,  the  remains  of  dwellings, 
fortifications,  weapons  of  defence  and  chase,  astronomical  calendars,  and 
people,  worshipping,  living  and  governing  in  the  midst  of  every  external 
evidence  of  ancient  civilization.     The  whole  of  North  America,  we  have 


256  MEXICO. 

seen,  and  a  large  portion  of  South  America,  is  strewn  with  these  or 
similar  remains,  from  Canada  to  far  below  the  equator.  Here,  in  the 
north,  it  is  supposed  that  there  were  three  races,  succeeding  each  other, 
two  of  which  have  vanished  even  from  tradition. 

"  The  monuments  of  the  first,  or  primitive  race,"  said  the  late  William 
Wirt,  "  are  regular  stone  walls,  wells  stoned  up,  brick  hearths,  found  in 
digging  the  Louisville  canal,  medals  of  copper,  silver  swords,  and  other 
implements  of  iron.  Mr.  Flint  assures  us  that  he  has  seen  these  strange 
ancient  swords.  He  has  also  examined  a  small  iron  shoe,  like  a  horse- 
shoe,  incrusted  with  the  rust  of  ages,  and  found  far  below  the  soil,  and  a 
copper  axe,  weighing  about  two  pounds,  singularly  tempered  and  of  pecul- 
iar construction. 

"  These  relics,  he  thinks,  belonged  to  a  race  of  civilized  men,  who  must 
have  disappeared  many  centuries  ago.  To  this  race  he  attributes  the 
hieroglyphic  characters  found  on  the  limestone  bluffs  ;  the  remains  of  cities 
and  fortifications  in  Florida  ;  the  regular  banks  of  ancient  live-oaks  near 
them  ;  and  the  bricks  found  at  Louisville,  nineteen  feet  below  the  surface, 
in  regular  hearths,  with  the  coals  of  the  last  domestic  fire  upon  them  j — these 
bricks  were  hard  and  regular,  and  longer  in  proportion  to  their  width  than 
those  of  the  present  day. 

"  To  the  second  race  of  beings  are  attributed  the  vast  mounds  of  earth, 
found  throughout  the  whole  western  region,  from  Lake  Erie  and  western 
Pennsylvania  to  Florida  and  the  Rocky  mountains.  Some  of  them  con- 
tain skeletons  of  human  beings,  and  display  immense  labor.  Many  of 
them  are  regular  mathematical  figures,  parallelograms  and  sections  of 
circles,  showing  the  remains  of  gateways  and  subterranean  passages. 
Some  are  eighty  feet  high,  and  have  trees  growing  on  them,  apparently 
of  the  age  of  five  hundred  years.  They  are  generally  of  a  soil  differing 
from  that  which  surrounds  them,  and  they  are  most  common  in  situations 
where  it  since  has  been  found  convenient  to  build  towns  and  cities. 

"  One  of  these  mounds  was  levelled  in  the  centre  of  Chillicothe,  and 
cart-loads  of  human  bones  removed  from  it.  Another  may  be  seen  in  Cin- 
cinnati, in  which  a  thin  circular  piece  of  gold,  alloyed  with  copper,  was 
found  last  year.  Another  in  St.  Louis,  named  the  "  Falling  Garden,"  is 
pointed  out  to  strangers  as  a  great  curiosity. 

"  Many  fragments  of  earthenware,  some  of  curious  workmanship,  have 
been  dug  up  throughout  this  vast  region  ;  some  represented  drinking  vessels, 
some  human  heads,  and  some  idols  ; — they  all  appear  to  have  been  moulded 
by  the  hand,  and  hardened  in  the  sun.  These  mounds  and  earthen  im- 
plements indicate  a  race  inferior  to  the  first,  which  was  acquainted  with 
the  use  of  iron. 

'•  The  third  race  are  the  Indians  now  existing  on  the  Western  Terri- 
tories. In  the  profound  silence  and  solitude  of  these  regions,  and  above 
the  bones  of  a  buried  world,  how  must  a  philosophic  traveller  meditate 
upon  the  transitory  state  of  human  existence,  when  the  only  traces  of  the 
beings  of  two  races  of  men  are  these  strange  memorials  !     On  this  very  spot 


REMAINS     IN    PERU. 


257 


generation  after  generation  has  stood,  lived,  warred,  grown  old  and  passed 
away  ;  and  not  only  their  names,  but  their  nation,  their  language  has  per- 
ished, and  utter  oblivion  has  closed  over  their  once  populous  abodes  !  We 
call  this  the  New  World.  It  is  old  !  Age  after  age,  and  one  physical  revo- 
lution after  another  has  passed  over  it — :but  who  shall  tell  its  history  ?" 

Who  ?  We  have  seen  the  memorials  of  three  distinct  races — but  who 
can  tell  the  origin  of  the  first  two — or  even  of  the  last  ?  And,  yet,  these 
are  only  part  of  the  inhabitants  of  North  America. 

I  have  attempted  to  describe  to  you  the  prominent  remains  that  still  exist 
farther  south,  in  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  and  in  other  portions  of  the  Re- 
public. Following  the  links  of  the  chain  still  farther  south,  Messieurs 
Stephens  and  Catherwood  have  given  an  account  of  forty  cities  visited  by 
them  in  their  second  tour  ;  and  they  describe  the  ruins  of  others  and  their 
monuments,  still  more  southerly,  in  their  former  volumes. 

In  South  America,  we  have  only  the  most  distinct  accounts  of  Peru ; 
and  although  the  Government  of  the  Incas  possessed  no  regular  city  but 
Cuzco,  many  interesting  specimens  have  been  exhumed  from  the  "  Gua- 
cas,"  or  mounds,  with  which  they  covered  the  bodies  of  the  dead.  "  Among 
these,"  says  Dr.  Rees,  are  "  mirrors  of  various  dimensions,  of  hard  shining 
stones,  highly  polished  ;  vessels  of  earthenware,  of  different  forms ;  hatchets 
and  other  instruments,  some  destined  for  war,  and  others  for  labor.  Some 
were  of  flint,  some  of  copper,  hardened  by  an  unknown  process,  to  such  a 
degree  as  to  supply  the  place  of  iron."  To  these  may  be  added  a  variety 
of  curious  drinking  vessels,  made  of  pottery  baked  and  painted ;  many 
specimens  of  which  embellish  the  public  and  private  Museums  of  our 
country,  and  are  not  unlike  some  that  have  been  found  in  the  Island  of 
Sacrificios. 


PERUVIAN      WATER      VESSELS 


The  public  roads  of  the  Peruvians  were  also  worthy  of  all  praise  ; 
especially  those  two  magnificent  highways  traversing  the  country  from 
Quito  to  Cuzco  for  fifteen  hundred  miles  ;- — the  one  passing  through  the  in- 
17 


258  MEXICO. 

terior  over  mountain  and  valley,  and  the  other  by  the  plains  of  the  sea- 
coast.  But,  in  the  construction  of  their  Temples  this  remarkable  people 
exhibited  their  greatest  ingenuity,  as  well  as  in  their  edifices  designed  for 
the  comfort  and  occupation  of  their  sovereigns.  "  The  Temple  of  Pacha- 
camac,  together  with  the  Palace  of  the  Inca,  and  Fortress,  were  so  con- 
nected together,  as  to  form  one  great  structure  above  half  a  league  in 
circuit.  Though  they  had  not  discovered  the  use  of  mortar,  or  of  any 
other  cement  in  building,  the  bricks  and  stones  are  joined  with  such  nicety 
that  the  seams  can  hardly  be  discerned.  Notwithstanding  the  inconve- 
nient arrangement  of  the  apartments,  and  the  want  of  windows,  the  archi- 
tectural works  of  the  Peruvians,  which  still  remain,  must  be  considered 
as  stupendous  efforts  of  a  people  unacquainted  with  the  use  of  iron  and 
the  mode  of  applying  the  mechanical  powers.  Among  the  ancient  edi- 
fices of  this  people,  we  may  mention  the  Obelisk  and  Statues  of  Tiahu- 
anuca,  and  Mausoleums  of  Chachapoyas,  which  are  conical  buildings  of 
stone,  supporting  rude  busts  of  huge  and  massive  dimensions."* 

Yet  all  that  these  remains  from  north  to  south,  through  such  a  varied 
extent  of  latitude  and  climate,  can  effect,  is  to  strike  us  with  wonder, 
and  stimulate,  though  they  puzzle  our  most  eager  curiosity.  The  monu- 
ments, themselves,  disclose  nothing  of  the  origin  of  the  races.  Is  there, 
then,  a  written  record  ?  Are  there  any  volumes  or  scattered  leaves  re- 
maining to  tell  the  story  ? 

The  only  remnant  of  this  character  that  I  have  been  able  to  discover 
(and  it  is  slightly  referred  to  by  Mr.  Stephens,)  is,  what  is  called  an  Aztec 
manuscript,  which  was  purchased  in  1739  by  Goetz,  at  Vienna,  during  a 
literary  tour  he  made  to  Italy,  and  is  now  preserved,  under  the  name  of 
Codex  Mexicanus,  in  the  Royal  Collection  of  Dresden. 

It  is  written  on  metl,  or  paper  undoubtedly  made  of  the  leaves  of  the 
Agave  Americana,  similar  to  others  brought  from  Mexico  and  preserved 
at  Veletri,  Vienna,  and  in  the  Vatican.  It  is  described  as  forming  a 
tabella  plicalis,  or  folding  book,  which  may  be  shut  up  like  a  map;  nearly 
eighty-one  yards  in  length,  and  covered,  on  both  sides,  with  paintings  and 
written  characters.  Each  page  is  about  seven  inches  in  length  by  three 
inches  and  a  little  more  in  breadth.  One  side  of  the  page  is  occupied 
by  painted  figures,  and  the  rest  by  signs  or  letters  placed  side  by  side,  and 
by  no  means  unlike  the  Chinese,  or  the  hieroglyphic  characters  delin- 
eated by  Mr.  Catherwood,  as  partly  covering  the  monuments  at  Palenque 
and  Copan. 

The  opposite  plate  is  a  precise  copy  of  one  page  of  this  manuscript  as 
given  by  Baron  Humboldt,  in  his  Atlas,  except  that  I  have  been  unable 
to  present  you  with  the  brilliant  blue,  red,  green  and  yellow  colors  that 
tint  the  figures,  and  give  to  the  whole  the  appearance  and  effect  of  an 
illuminated  missal. 

A  writer  in  the  sixteenth  volume  of  the  Edinburgh  Review,  at  page 
222  of  the  American  edition,  casts  doubts  on  the  genuineness  of  this  man- 

•Reet,  vol.  xxviii.  article,  Peru. 


on®flfl©«aeso© 

a  ©oil    g50®  Q 


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rt"""T       o 


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l&\s&®mj<m  £gzr- 


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#iii^^(?:iif?^  ^»V|  assy  sc* 
5-1 


MEXICAN  MANUSCRIPT. 


MEXICAN    MANUSCRIPT.  259 

uscript,  as  being  of  Aztec  origin ;  he  thinks  "  it  highly  improbable  that 
it  is  Mexican,  as  nothing  like  it  has  yet  been  found  among  the  monuments 
of  that  people  ;  while,  on  the  other  hand,  it  seems  probable  that  it  is  the 
workmanship  of  the  same  race  that  reared  and  inhabited  Palenque, 
seeing  that  similar  characters  abound  among  its  ruins."  One  of  the 
strongest  circumstantial  evidences,  in  all  legal  investigations  of  the  au- 
thenticity of  documents,  is  the  material  on  which  they  are  written.  False 
wills  have  thus  been  detected  by  the  date  in  the  water  mark;  and,  in  this 
instance,  it  will  be  recollected  that  the  material  is  precisely  similar  to 
that  which  is  known  to  have  been  brought  from  Mexico,  containing  draw- 
ing, that  were  undoubtedly  made  by  the  Aztecs.  In  addition  to  this,  it  is 
a  work  written  and  painted  on  paper  made  of  the  Agave  Americana,  or 
American  Aloe,  not  a  single  one  of  which  is  delineated  by  Mr.  Cather- 
wood  as  growing  wild  among  the  ruins  of  Palenque.  In  fact,  it  is  a  plant 
almost  unknown  in  the  level  and  warmer  territories  near  the  coast ;  it  is 
peculiar  to  the  elevated  plateaus  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico  and  the  adja- 
cent country,  and  I  do  not  remember  to  have  seen  it,  in  the  course  of  my 
journey  through  the  tierra  caliente,  even  at  the  short  distance  of  sixty 
miles  south  of  the  Capital  in  the  vale  of  Cuernavaca.  If  it  be  replied 
to  this  that  the  paper  or  leaf  may  have  been  brought  to  Palenque  from 
Mexico,  the  answer  would  at  once  show  a  connection  of  arts  between  the 
people,  and  go  far  to  prove  their  national  identity  or  close  alliance  and 
intercourse.  It  should  be  remembered,  too,  that  works  like  this  would 
very  naturally  have  been  the  first  to  be  destroyed  in  Mexico,  and  the 
smallness  of  their  number  would  thus  be  successfully  accounted  for. 

From  these  facts  we  may  fairly  argue  that  this  book  of  eighty  yards  in 
length,  covered  with  written  characters  and  illuminated  with  pictures,  is,  in 
all  probability,  a  Mexican  production.  The  figures  of  the  men  or  demons 
are  evidently  similar,  both  in  physignomy,  posture  and  faces,  to  those  on  the 
monuments  and  idols  I  have  already  described  to  you.  But  who  shall 
decipher  their  meaning,  or  that  of  the  hieroglyphics  ? 

It  was  for  years  that  the  antiquarians  of  the  Old  World  were  guessing 
at  the  signification  of  Egyptian  hieroglyphics,  until,  in  1799,  a  French 
engineer,  when  digging  the  foundations  of  Fort  St.  Julien,  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  Nile,  between  Rosetta  and  the  sea,  discovered  the  fragment  of  a 
stone  which  is  now  deposited  in  the  British  Museum.  It  contained  an  in- 
scription in  hieroglyphic,  Demotic,  and  Greek — two  of  which  are  ancient 
Egyptian  languages.  The  Greek  was  deciphered  and  the  translation 
applied  to  the  Demotic,  and  both,  again,  to  the  hieroglyphic ;  and,  thus, 
after  years  of  patient  and  unceasing  toil,  a  key  has  been  formed  by  which 
the  present  savans  of  Europe  go  among  the  relics  of  Egypt,  and  decipher 
the  inscriptions  on  their  tombs  as  easily  as  we  read  the  mementoes  over  the 
graves  of  our  friends  in  the  cemeteries  of  Boston  or  Baltimore.  But  even 
if  a  Rosetta  stone  were  discovered  in  Mexico,  there  is  no  Indian  tongue 
to  supply  the  key  or  interpreter. 
17* 


260  MEXICO. 

We  arc  thus,  in  all  probability,  for  ever  stopped  in  our  investigations  of 
the  origin  of  these  races ; — either  from  their  Monuments  or  their  written 
Records.  We  are  left  to  trace  national  relations  by  similar  buildings, 
similar  dresses,  similar  traditions,  similar  worship,  similar  governments, 
or  similar  faith ;  but  all  these  identities  are  not  inconsistent  with  the  idea 
arrived  at  by  Mr.  Bradford  in  his  Researches  on  the  Origin  and  History 
of  the  Red  Race,  that  the  Aborigines  of  America  may  have  been  "  a  prim- 
itive branch  of  the  human  family."* 

I  confess,  when  I  recollect  the  Mexican  tradition,  that  the  original  tribes 
came  to  their  beautiful  valley,  after  many  years  and  vicissitudes  of  a 
dreary  pilgrimage  from  the  north,  I  have  not  thought  it  fanciful  to  be- 
lieve, that  they  may  have  belonged  to  one  of  the  two  races  described  by 
Mr.  Wirt,  as  extinct  before  the  origin  of  the  present  Red  Men  of  our  for- 
ests and  prairies.  Wave  after  wave  of  the  flowing  tide  of  humanity  may 
have  beaten  gradually  along  this  Continent  from  north  to  south,  each  urg- 
ing on  the  preceding.  Tired  of  the  hunter  life  at  the  inhospitable  north, 
they  wandered  off  to  the  south.  A  straggler  now  and  then  returned  with 
a  tale  of  the  genial  climate,  shady  groves,  and  prolific  soil  of  the  central 
regions ; — and,  thus,  family  after  family,  colony  after  colony,  tribe  after 
tribe,  was  induced  to  quit  its  colder  homes,  and  settle  in  the  south.  As 
in  the  Old  World,  that  south  became  the  centre  of  civilization.  Men 
were  modified  by  climate.  The  rude  savage,  who  depended  upon  the 
chase  for  subsistence  at  the  north,  and  dwelt  in  caves  or  sheltered  under 
the  forest  leaves,  awoke  to  a  new  idea  of  life  in  his  newer  home.  The 
energy  of  his  character  was  not  yet  lost ; — he  saw  the  magical  power  of 
agriculture,  and  a  new  idea  was  revealed  to  him  through  its  mysterious 
agency.  There  was  no  need  of  excessive  toil  in  the  fields  or  in  the  for- 
ests. His  spirit  became  less  warlike,  and  more  social,  as  men  congregated 
in  populous  neighborhoods.  While  in  the  north,  the  merest  and  fewest 
necessaries — his  weapon,  his  breastwork,  his  fireplace,  his  cave  for  a 
dwelling,  and  a  mound  for  a  grave — sufficed  the  Indian,  his  whole  purposes 
and  instincts  assumed  a  different  character  in  the  south. 

The  warrior  and  hunter  loved  the  hardships  taught  him  at  the  north, 
by  his  wandering  habits  from  infancy ; — but,  the  burning  sun  and  milder 
climate  of  the  south,  while  they  inclined  to  peace  and  longevity,  induced 
him  to  build  tasteful  and  sheltering  edifices  for  himself  and  his  posterity. 
The  adoration  of  his  gods,  became  an  enthusiasm,  under  more  fervid  skies  ; 

*  In  Mr.  Norman's  work  on  Yucatan  at  page  218,  there  is  a  letter  from  Doctor  Morton,  the  celebrated  author 
of  "  Crania  Americana,"  in  which,  after  expressing  his  thankfulness  to  Mr.  N.  for  the  opportunity  afforded  him 
of  examining  certain  hones  brought  from  Yucatan,  he  observes,  that,  "dilapidated  as.  they  are,  their  characters, 
as  fur  as  I  can  ascertain  them,  correspond  with  all  the  esteological  remains  of  that  people  which  have  hitherto 
come  under  my  observation,  and  go  to  confirm  the  position,  that  all  the  American  tribes  (excepting  the  Esqui- 
maux, who  are  obviously  of  Asiatic  origin,)  are  of  the  same  unmixed  race.  I  have  examined  the  skulls  (now  in 
my  possession)  of  four  hundred  individuals  belonging  to  tribes  which  have  inhabited  almost  every  region  ol  North 
and  South  America,  and  I  find  the  same  type  of  organization  to  pervade  and  characterize  them  all. 

"  I  much  regret  that,  we  have  in  this  country  so  few  skulls  of  the  Mongolian  or  Polar  tribes  of  Northern  Asia. 
These  are  all  important  in  deciding  the  question  whether  the  Aboriginal  American  race  is  peculiar  and  distinct 
from  all  others;  a  position  which  I  have  always  maintained,  and  which  I  think  wdl  be  verified  when  the  requisite 
means  of  comparison  are  procured." 


EMIGRATION     OF     THE     TRIBES.  261 

and  the  vow  or  the  worship  that  were  once  offered  in  the  recesses  of  groves, 
in  the  silence  of  dark  woods,  or  on  the  mountain-top, — were  here  poured 
forth  on  the  lofty  pyramid,  built  by  human  hands  and  fashioned  by  hu- 
man art. 

Although  we  are  left  in  this  mystery  as  to  the  peopling  of  America,  I 
think  there  is  not  so  much  doubt  in  regard  to  the  inhabitants  of  Uxmal, 
Palenque,  Copan,  Chichen-Itza,  and  the  various  cities  that  have  been 
described  by  Mr.  Stephens. 

According  to  Clavigero,  a  tribe,  known  as  the  Toltecs,,  left  their  home 
in  the  north,  and,  after  a  journey  of  emigration  that  lasted  104  years, 
(during  which  time  they  frequently  tarried  in  certain  places  for  years 
and  months,  erecting  edifices  and  partially  establishing  themselves,)  they, 
at  length,  reached  the  vale  of  Anahuac,  a  territory  that  subsequently  be- 
came the  seat  of  the  Mexican  Empire.  At  Tollan,  or  Tula,  they  founded  the 
Capital  of  a  dynasty,  which  lasted  384  years  ; — celebrated  for  its  wisdom, 
knowledge,  and  extensive  civilization.  About  1051,  (the  tradition  runs,) 
famine  and  pestilence  nearly  desolated  the  kingdom,  and  a  great  por- 
tion of  those  who  escaped  the  ravages  of  disease  emigrated  immediately 
to  Yucatan  and  Guatemala,  leaving  but  a  scattering  remnant  of  this  once 
flourishing  empire  in  Tula  and  Cholula. 

For  one  hundred  years  afterward  Anahuac  was  nearly  depopulated. 

Then  came  an  emigration  of  the  Chichimecas,  from  the  north,  like  the 
Toltecs,  and  from  a  place  which  they  called  Amaquemecan.  These, 
too,  intermingling  with  the  Toltec  remnants,  had  their  reign  among  the 
ruins  of  the  former  empire,— dwelling,  however,  in  small  villages,  and 
lacking  all  the  elements  of  civilization. 

Eight  years  after  their  advent  to  Anahuac,  six  tribes  called  the  Nahu- 
atlacks  arrived,  having  left,  at  a  short  distance,  a  seventh,  called  Aztecs. 
Shortly  afterward,  they  were  joined  by  their  missing  tribe  and  by  the 
Acolhuans,  who  are  said  to  have  emigrated  from  Teoacolhucan,  near  the 
original  country  of  the  Chichimecas.  These  were,  undoubtedly,  the  most 
enlightened  of  all  the  wandering  tribes  who  had  penetrated  these  valleys 
since  the  days  of  the  Toltecs,  and  they  speedily  formed  an  alliance  with 
their  ancient  neighbors. 

Of  all  these  wanderers,  however,  we  have  now  no  traditions,  except  in 
relation  to  the  Aztecs,  who,  departing  from  Azatlan  in  the  north  about  the 
year  1160,  continued  their  singular  and  weary  pilgrimage,  with  frequent 
delays,  until  1325  ;  when,  finding  on  a  rock  in  a  lake,  the  "  Eagle  on  the 
Prickly  Pear,"  (the  omen  to  which  they  had  been  prophetically  directed 
for  the  foundation  of  their  future  Capital,)  they  gathered  together  among 
the  marshes  of  Tezcoco,  and  built  the  city  of  Tenochtitlan, — the  Mexico 
of  Cortez.  It  is  believed,  both  by  Clavigero  and  Humboldt,  that  all  these 
tribes  of  the  Toltecs,  Acolhuans,  Chichimecas  and  Nahuatlacks,  spoke  the 
same  language,  and  therefore,  in  all  probability,  emigrated  from  about 
the  same  degree  of  northern  latitude. 


262  MEXICO. 

Besides  these  tribes,  there  were  others  in  the  country  at  the  period  of 
the  conquest.  The  Tarascos  who  inhabited  Michoacan,  the  barbarous 
Ottomites.  the  Olmecs  and  Xicalancas,  and  Miztecas  and  Zapotecas  ; — the 
latter  of  whom  are  held,  by  Humboldt,  to  have  been  even  superior  to  the 
Mexicans  in  point  of  civilization,  and  were  probably  antecedent,  in  the 
date  of  their  emigration,  to  the  Toltecs.  In  addition  to  this,  you  must 
bear  in  mind  that  the  ancient  Mexican  Empire  did  not  cover  (as  is  usually 
supposed,)  the  whole  of  what  is  now  the  Republic  of  Mexico,  or  formerly 
New  Spain.  On  the  east,  it  was  bounded  by  the  river  Coatzacualco ;  on 
the  north,  it  did  not  extend  farther  than  Tusapan ;  on  the  west,  it  was 
washed  by  the  Pacific  ;  and  on  the  south,  it  reached,  in  all  probability,  to 
near  the  limits  of  what  are  now  the  provinces  of  Chiapas  and  Tobasco.* 

You  will  recollect,  that  after  the  "  pestilence  and  famine"  that  thinned 
the  numbers  of  the  Toltecs,  the  greater  portion  of  the  survivors  emi- 
grated to  Yucatan  and  Guatemala ;  these  were  a  highly  civilized  people, 
— living  in  houses,  and  building  temples — to  whom,  perhaps,  the  Mexicans 
were  indebted  for  the  germ  of  their  subsequent  refinement.  Is  it  not, 
then,  highly  probable,  that  the  ancient  ruins  found  by  Mr.  Stephens, 
scattered  over  Guatemala,  Yucatan  and  Chiapas,  were  the  palaces  and 
temples  of  this  wandering  race  ?  It  strikes  me,  that  no  one  can  compare 
the  unquestionably  Toltec  Vase  found  in  the  department  of  Tula,  and 
described  at  page  108,  the  sculptures  on  the  Stone  of  Sacrifice,  at  page 
119;  and  in  fact  the  general  characteristics  of  all  the  sculpture,  idols 
and  figures  heretofore  represented,  with  those  delineated  by  Mr.  Cather- 
wood,  and  doubt  the  identity  or  close  connection  between  the  people. 
We  have  every  evidence  of  high  civilization  among  the  Mexicans,  as  you 
have  observed  in  the  preceding  pages.  They  had  temples,  gods,  gardens, 
magnificent  dwellings,  and  all  the  paraphernalia  of  a  splendid  Empire. 
This  Empire  was  in  full  power  and  glory  at  the  period  of  the  Spanish 
conquest.  Its  southern  limit  nearly  bounded  on  Guatemala  and  Yucatan, 
and,  with  the  most  distant  portion,  there  was,  unquestionably,  a  com- 
munication kept  up  by  the  Capital.  Why,  then,  may  not  the  palaces  of 
Uxmal,  Palenque  and  Chiapas,  have  been  inhabited,  and  their  altars  and 
temples  used,  as  places  of  sacrifice  in  the  days  of  Cortcz,  as  well  as  the 
heights  of  Chapultepec — or  the  Teocalli  of  Mexico  ? 

The  silence  of  contemporary  historians  in  regard  to  the  former  cities  of 
Yucatan  and  Guatemala,  is  no  argument  against  their  having  been  inhab- 
ited. The  two  best  writers,  Cortez  and  Bernal  Diaz,  were  soldiers,  not 
antiquarians.  They  came  for  conquest,  not  research  ;  and  it  is  greatly 
to  be  regretted  that  a  history  of  Guatemala,  known  to  have  existed  a 
few  years  ago  in  that  country,  in  the  original  manuscript  of  Diaz,  (and 
which  was  once  in  the  possession  of  Mr.  Whitehead,  of  Mexico,)  has  been 
utterly  lost  in  the  turmoils  and  confusion  of  that  country. 

It  seems  to  me  impossible  to  believe  that  the  Valley  of  Mexico  was 
the  only  seat  of  refinement,  taste,  and   luxury  on  the  isthmus,  or  that  so 

*  Vide  Humboldt,  ClaviEero,  and  McCulloh. 


EMIGRATION    OF    THE     TRIBES.  263 

powerful  an  Empire  existed  in  all  its  splendor,  while  the  pyramids,  tern- 
pies,  palaces,  and  edifices  which  are  represented  in  the  plates  accompany- 
ing these  letters,  were  abandoned  to  the  forest  and  its  beasts.  I  cannot 
believe,  that  in  so  small  a  geographical  space  there  could  be  such  palpa- 
ble anachronisms, — so  much  light  in  one  spot  with  so  much  blackness  next 
it ; — that  people,  at  the  height  of  social  and  architectural  refinement, 
should  have  had  neighbors  at  the  distance  of  100,  200,  or  300  miles, 
who  were  utter  savages,  while,  a  few  degrees  farther  south,  there  was 
another  stratum  of  known  civilization  in  Peru. 

I  do  not  rely  upon  all  the  dates,  assigned  by  Mexican  historians,  for  the 
rise  and  fall  of  the  Toltecs  and  Aztecs.  There  is  doubt  among  the  best 
writers  on  these  subjects.  The  period,  during  which  their  emigration 
from  the  north  continued,  may  be  correct ;  but  I  question  the  accuracy  of 
the  time  given  for  the  commencement  and  spread  of  their  respective  mon- 
archies, especially,  when  we  remember  the  numbers  who  fell  either  in 
battle  or  under  the  sacrificial  knife.  The  empires  were  exceedingly  pop- 
ulous, and  it  would  seem  to  have  required  centuries  to  gather  all  the  pop- 
ulation that  existed  in  the  vale  of  Anahuac  after  the  ravages  that  termi- 
nated the  Toltec  sway.  Besides  this,  the  Mexicans  rose  to  great  refinement 
from  absolute  barbarism,  or  from  the  comparative  ignorance  and  bad  hab- 
its they  had  contracted  during  a  long  emigration.  This  requires  time. 
The  growth  of  nations  is  gradual.  How  long  did  it  require  to  pile  up 
the  hill  of  Xochicalco — to  dig  its  ditch  of  a  league  in  extent — to  quarry 
its  immense  stones — to  bring  them  from  their  distant  caves — to  bear  them 
to  the  summit  of  the  mound — to  pile  them  up  in  the  several  stories  of  the 
pyramid — and,  lastly,  to  cover  the  whole  with  elaborate  carving  ?  How 
long  did  it  require  to  prepare  the  mind  of  a  nation,  step  by  step,  for  the 
idea  and  construction  of  such  an  edifice  ; — which,  we  must  remember,  is 
but  one  out  of  thousands  ! 

It  is  difficult  to  determine  what  might  have  been  the  extent  of  our 
knowledge  of  all  the  questions  with  which  I  began  this  letter,  if  the  holy 
fathers,  instead  of  making  bonfires  of  Mexican  records,  had  studied  them 
with  antiquarian  zeal.  Yet,  I  have  at  least  satisfied  myself,  that  if  we 
know  nothing  of  the  origin  of  the  people  of  America,  we  may  at  least 
be  confident  that  Palenque,  Uxmal,  Copan,  Mexico,  Xochicalco,  Teo- 
tihuacan,  Cholula,  Papantla,  Tusapan,  and  Mitla,  were  the  dwellings 
and  temples  of  civilized  nations  at  the  period  of  the  Spanish  conquest. 
If  ever  the  city  of  which  Mr.  Stephens  heard,  as  existing  among  the 
mountains,  (unvisited  hitherto  by  white  men,)  is  penetrated  by  some  fu- 
ture band  of  adventurous  travellers,  the  mystery  may,  perhaps,  be  solved. 
That  such  a  city  exists,  I  think  by  no  means  improbable,  when  it  is  re- 
collected, that  near  the  town  of  Cuernavaca,  not  more,  perhaps,  than 
seventy  miles  from  the  Capital  of  Mexico,  there  is  a  populous  and  well 
governed  Indian  village,  enjoying  its  native  habits,  and  refusing  to  hold  in- 
tercourse with  the  Spaniards.  How  much  more  probable  that  there  should 
be  primitive  tribes  of  which  we  have  not  the  slightest  information  flour- 


264  MEXICO. 


ishing  with  their  original  laws,  customs,  towns,  and  temples,  among  the 
folds  of  the  distant  mountains  in  the  bosom  of  our  unexplored  Continent ! 


Note.— The  Mexican  Cosmogony  has  four  periods,  when,  it  is  alleged,  thatall  mankind,  with  the  exception  of 
two  or  three  individuals,  perished. 

The  1st    period  was  terminated  by  famine  at  the  end  of. 5206  years. 

"  2nd  "  "  fire  "        "  4804     " 

"  3rd  hurricane   "         "  4010     " 

"  4th  "  "  deluge        "         "  4008     " 

In  this  deluge  all  perished,  with  the  exception  of  Coxcoz,  and  his  wife  Xochiquetzal,  who  escaped  in  a  canoe. 

I  have  already,  at  page  28,  presented  you  an  account  of  a  Toltee  legend,  showing  how  one  of  the  giants, 
called  Xelhua,  and  his  six  brethren,  were  saved  from  the  deluge  on  the  mountain  of  Tlaloc,  while  all  the  rest  of 
mankind  perished  in  the  waters  or  were  transformed  into  fish. 

Josephus,  quoting  from  the  96th  book  of  Nicholas  of  Damascus,  says  "  there  is  a  great  mountain  in  Armenia, 
over  Mingas,  called  Baris,  upon  winch,  it  is  reported,  that  many  who  fled  at  the  time  of  the  deluge  were  saved  : 
and  that  one  who  was  carried  in  an  ark  came  on  shore  on  the  top  of  it;  and  that  the  remains  of  the  timber  were 
a  great  while  preserved.    This  might  be  the  man  about  whom  Moses,  the  legislator  of  the  Jews,  wrote." 

In  the  construction,  form,  and  object  of  the  Mexican  tcucallis,  there  is  a  striking  analogy  to  the  tumuri  and 
pyramids  of  the  old  world.  According  to  Herodotus,  the  temple  of  Belus  was  a  pyramid,  built  of  brick  and 
asphaltum,  solid  throughout,  (nvpyos  crcpos,)  and  it  had  eight  stories.  A  temple  (vao;)  was  erected  on  its 
top,  and  another  at  its  base.  In  like  manner,  in  the  Mexican  tcocallis,  the  tower,  (vaoj)  was  distinguished  from 
the  temple  on  the  platform  ;  a  distinction  clearly  pointed  out  in  the  letters  of  Cortez.  Diodorus  Siculus  states, 
that  the  Babylonian  temple  served  as  un  observatory  to  the  Chaldeans ;  so,  the  Mexican  priesu,  says  Humboldt, 
made  observations  on  the  stars  from  the  summit  of  the  tcocallis,  and  announced  to  the  people,  by  the  sound  of 
the  horn,  the  hour  of  the  night.  The  pyramid  of  Belus  was  at  once  a  temple  and  a  tomb.  In  like  manner,  the 
tumulus  (^cepa)  of  Calisto  in  Arcadia,  described  by  Pausanias  as  a  cone,  made  by  the  hands  of  man,  but  cov- 
ered with  vegetation,  bore  on  its  top  the  temple  of  Diana.  The  teocallis  were  also  both  temples  and  tombs; 
and  the  plain  in  which  are  built  the  houses  of  the  sun  and  moon  at  Teotihuacan,  is  calied  the  path  of  the  dead. 
The  group  of  pyramids  at  Gheeza  and  Sakkara  in  Egypt ;  the  triangular  pyramid  of  the  queen  of  the  Scyth- 
ians, mentioned  by  Diodorus ;  tlie  fourteen  Etruscan,  pyramids  which  are  said  to  have  been  inclosed  in  the 
labyrynth  of  King  Porsenna  at  Clusium:  the  tumulus  of  Alyattes  at  Lydia  (see  Modern  Traveller,  Syria  and. 
Asia  Minor,  vol.  ii.  p.  153  ;)  the  sepulchres  of  the  Scandinavian  king  Gormus  and  his  queen  Daneboda ;  and  the 
tumuli  found  in  Virginia.  Canada,  and  Peru,  in  which  numerous  galleries,  built  with  stone  and  communicating 
with  each  by  shafts,  fill  up  the  interior  of  artificial  hills ;— are  referred  to  by  the  learned  Traveller  as  sepulchral 
monuments  of  a  similar  character,  but  differing  from  the  tcocallis  in  not  being,  at  the  same  time,  surmounted 
with  temples.  It  is  perhaps  too  hastily  assumed,  however,  that  none  of  these  were  destined  to  serve  as  buses  for 
altars  ;  and  the  assertion  is  much  too  unqualified,  that  "  the  pagodas  of  Hindustan  have  nothing  in  common 
with  the  Mexican  temples.  That  of  Tanjore,  notwithstanding  that  the  altar  is  not  at  the  top,  bears  a  striking 
analogy  in  other  respects  to  the  teocallis."— See  Humboldt's  Researches,  vol.  i.  pp.  81—107 ;  Pol.  Essap,  vol. 
ii.  pp.  146—149 ;  Mod.  Traveller,  vol.  vi.  p.  241. 


LETTER    XXVI. 

CITY    OF    MEXICO.       PUBLIC    INSTITUTIONS.       PRISONS.       PRISON    STATISTICS. 
ACADEMY.       PRIVATE    COLLECTIONS. 

We  will  return  now  from  the  edifices  of  Ancient  Mexico,  to  the  mod- 
ern institutions  and  erections  of  the  Spaniards,  who  have  displaced  the 
Indians. 

I  have  already  given  you  some  descriptions  of  the  City  of  Mexico,  and 
the  appearance  and  character  of  the  castle-like  dwellings  of  the  people ; 
but,  (with  the  exception  of  the  Cathedral,)  I  have  as  yet  said  nothing  of 
the  public  edifices  and  churches. 

There  are  two  Palaces  in  the  City  of  Mexico,  one  of  which  is  appro- 
priated to  the  Archbishop,  and  the  other  to  the  President  and  Government 
officers. 

The  Archbishop's  Palace  fronts  the  northern  end  of  the  President's, 
and  is  plain  and  simple  both  within  and  without.  The  same  may  be  said 
of  the  National  Palace  ;  it  has  no  architectural  pretensions,  and  until  the 
year  1842,  was  a  long  low  pile  of  unadorned  buildings,  filled  with  a  mis- 
erable collection  of  comfortless  rooms.  Upon  the  accession  of  General 
Santa  Anna,  however,  a  change  took  place.  The  Minister  of  Finance 
fitted  up  a  suite  of  apartments  for  his  bureaux,  in  a  tasteful  modern  style ; 
and,  in  the  months  of  August  and  September,  the  Grand  Sala  was  en- 
tirely completed,  and  opened  to  the  public  for  the  first  time  on  the  anni- 
versary of  the  crowning  victory  of  Mexican  Independence. 

In  this  spacious  and  well-proportioned  apartment  they  have  gathered  a 
quantity  of  gorgeous  furniture,  and  placed,  on  a  platform  at  the  northern 
end,  under  a  crimson  canopy,  a  magnificently  carved  and  gilded  throne. 
Various  flags,  alleged  to  have  been  taken  from  the  Texans,  in  battle,  are 
affixed  to  staffs  extending  from  the  cornice.  The  walls  are  covered  with 
large  French  mirrors,  and  the  deep  windows  are  festooned  with  the 
most  tasteful  upholstery  of  French  artistes.  I  have  wandered  over 
the  whole  of  this  immense  pile  of  edifices,  but  1  recollect  nothing  else 
about  it  worthy  of  notice.  The  private  apartments  of  General  Santa 
Anna  are  plain,  neat,  and  tasteful,  and  a  full-length  portrait  of  General 
Washington  adorns  an  obscui'e  chamber. 

In  an  inner  court,  to  the  eastward,  is  the  Botanic  Garden,  surrounded 
by  the  lofty  walls  of  adjoining  edifices.     It  is  of  small  extent,  and  the 


266 

poor  flowers,  shut  up 
ful  nuns  secluded  for 
a  Roman — aged,  he 
little  of  his  business, 
like  a  hermit,  in  the 
and  amuses  himself 
curiosity  of  the  place 


MEXICO. 

in  the  dreary  inclosure,  seem  like  so  many  beauti- 
ever  from  the  vulgar  gaze.  The  chief  gardener  is 
alleges,  more  than  a  century — who  either  knows 
or  has  become  useless  by  extreme  age.  He  lives, 
shady  nooks  of  his  tangled  and  neglected  garden, 
by  pointing  out  to  every  visitor  the  greatest  floral 
— the  celebrated  Arbol  Manita. 


HAND      FLOWER. 


The  almost  unpronounceable  Indian  name  is  MacpahocKquauhitl,  the 
botanic,  Chiranthodendron  pentadactylon  ; — but  it  is  usually  known  as  the 
"  hand  floioer ."  Two  trees  only  are  said  to  exist  in  the  Republic — one  at 
Toluca  and  the  other  in  the  Capital ; — and  it  is  chiefly  remarkable  for 
the  brilliancy  of  ils  linls,  and  the  claw  that  protrudes  from  its  thorny  cup 
— a  singular  mingling  of  bird  and  blossom. 

Behind  the  Palace  are  the  Senate  Chamber,  and  the  Chamber  of  De- 
puties— both  of  them  tasteful  and  comfortable  apartments.  The  latter  is 
of  semicircular  form,  with  a  throne-like  stage  for  the  seat  of  the  Presi- 
dent on  public  occasions; — beneath  its  canopy  are  hung  the  Declara- 
tion of  Independence,  and  the  sword  which  Iturbide  first  drew  in  defence 


PUBLIC    INSTITUTIONS.  267 

of  Mexican  liberty.  The  chairs  of  the  members  are  ranged  in  two  rows, 
rising  one  above  the  other  against  the  walls  of  the  semicircle,  without 
desks ;  and  above  these,  again,  are  lodges,  or  boxes  supported  by  pil- 
lars, for  the  audience.  A  well  executed  picture  of  the  Victory  of  Tam- 
pico,  occupies  a  panel  over  the  door  in  front  of  the  thi*one ;  and  on  the 
table  of  the  secretaries  is  placed  the  omnipresent  crucifix. 

The  buildings  of  the  Mint  form  the  back  of  the  palace  square,  and 
are  filled  with  the  old  and  cumbrous  machinery  of  the  last  century.  I 
saw  none  of  the  modern  improvements  which  have  been  introduced  both 
in  Europe  and  in  this  country ;  but  I  cannot  pass  over  this  institution 
without  doing  justice  to  the  artistical  skill  of  the  artist,  who  is  at  pres- 
ent engaged  in  making  new  dies  for  the  future  coinage  of  the  Republic. 
The  taste  and  talent  of  this  young  gentleman  were  discovered  by  some 
of  the  chiefs  of  Government,  and  he  was  immediately  dispatched  to  Rome, 
whence,  after  a  few  years  study,  he  has  returned  to  honor  his  native 
Capital  with  the  works  of  his  graver. 

I  will  say  nothing  of  the  old  edifice  of  the  Inquisition,  with  its  vaulted 
rooms,  its  inner  chambers,  and  its  monastic  gloom  ;  or  of  the  neighboring 
church  of  the  Dominicans,  in  the  court-yard  of  which  you  are  still  shown 
the  hollow  among  the  stones,  wherein  the  stake  was  erected  that  sustained 
the  victims  of  their  former  auto's.  There  is  no  longer  an  Inquisition,  or 
a  faggot. 

Near  this  is  the  Adotjana — or  Custom  House — which,  like  the  Dipu- 
tacion,  is  a  stately  and  commodious  edifice.  There  are  fourteen  parish 
churches,  six  private  churches,  thirteen  convents  and  seminaries  for  men, 
and  twenty-two  for  women;  six  colleges,  one  university,  and  five  hos- 
pitals and  poor-houses. 


MONTE  PIO. 


The  Monte  Pio — a  species  of  national  pawnbroker  establishment — is 
in  the  great  Square,  occupying  the  building  known  as  the  Palace  of 
Cortez,  said  to  be  erected  on  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Palace  of  Monte- 
zuma. This  is  one  of  the  most  beneficent  institutions  in  the  world,  and 
was  founded  in  1775,  by  the  Conde  de  Regla,  who  endowed  it  with  about 
$300,000.  Since  that  period  it  has  been  administered  faithfully  by  the 
Government,  and  affords  succor  daily  to  more  than  two  hundred  persons. 
It  is  ruled  by  a  general  Board  of  Directors,  and  receives  pledges  of 
clothes,  jewels,  plate,  and  every  species  of  valuables.  These  articles  are 
appraised  at  a  fair  valuation,  the  amount  of  which  (deducting  the  interest) 
is  paid  to  the  pawner; — they  are  then  retained  for  six  months,  during 
which  period  the  owner  is  at  liberty  to  withdraw  them  upon  repayment 
of  the  sum  advanced.  If  the  debt  is  not  refunded  at  the  end  of  that  time, 
the  pledges  are  disposed  of  at  public  sale  ;  and  if  they  bring  more  under 


268  MEXICO. 

the  hammer  than  the  valuation,  the  difference  is  given  to  their  original 
owners. 

From  the  foundation  of  this  admirable  Institute — which  has  been  the 
means  of  preventing  so  much  disgrace  and  misery  during  the  .revolution- 
ary difficulties  of  the  Capital — 2,232,611  persons  had  received  succor 
up  to  the  beginning  of  1836.  During  the  same  period  it  had  distributed 
$31,674,702,  besides  giving  $134,746  in  alms. 

In  the  year  1837,  it  aided  29,629  persons  by  the  distribution  of  $477, 
772,  and  gave  $1,089  for  masses  to  be  said  daily  by  three  chaplains,  who 
received  a  dollar  for  each  of  their  services. 

You  may  form  an  idea  of  the  number  and  variety  of  persons  who 
derive  assistance  from  the  Monte  Pio,  by  a  walk  through  its  extensive 
apartments.  You  will  there  find  every  species  of  garment,  from  the 
tattered  reboso  of  the  Icpira  to  the  lace  mantilla  of  the  noble  dame ; 
every  species  of  dress,  from  the  blanket  of  the  beggar,  to  the  military 
cloak  and  jewelled  sword  of  the  impoverished  officer ;  and,  as  to  jewels, 
Aladdin  would  have  had  nothing  to  wish  anions;  the  blazing  caskets  of 
diamonds  for  which  the  women  of  Mexico  are  proverbial. 

MINERIA. 


The  Minerja — or  School  of  Mines — is  one  of  the  most  splendid  edifices 
in  America.  It  was  planned  and  built  by  Tolsa — the  sculptor  of  the 
statue  of  Charles  IV. — and  is  an  immense  pile  of  stone,  with  courts, 
stairways,  saloons,  and  proportions  that  would  adorn  the  most  sumptu- 
ous palaces  of  Europe.  But  this  is  all.  The  apparatus  is  miserable;  the 
collection  of  minerals  utterly  insignificant ;  the  pupils  few ;  and,  among 
the  wastes  and  solitude  of  the  pile,  wanders  the  renowned  Del  Rio — one 
of  the  most  learned  naturalists  of  this  hemisphere — ejaculating  his  sor- 
rows over  the  departed  glory  of  his  favorite  schools. 

An  edifice  used  for  the  manufacture  of  tobacco,  situated  at  the  north- 
western corner  of  the  city,  and  erected  by  the  old  Spanish  government, 
has  been  converted  into  a  citadel.  I  never  visited  it,  and  can  give  no 
account  of  its  interior. 


ACCORDADA,  OR  PUBLIC  PRISON. 

Passing  westward,  toward  the  Passeo  Nuevo  from  the  Alameda,  you 
cross  the  square  in  front  of  the  Accordada,  the  common  prison  of  thp 
Capital.  In  the  front  of  one  of  its  wings  a  low-barred  window  is  constantly 
open,  and  within,  on  an  inclined  plane,  are  laid  the  dead  bodies  found  daily 
within  the  limits  of  the  city.  It  is  almost  impossible  to  take  your  morning 
walk  to  the  adjoining  fields,  without  seeing  one,  and  frequently  two  corpses, 
stretched  bleeding  on  the  stones.     These  are  the  victims  of  some  sudden 


PUBLIC    INSTITUTIONS.  269 

quarrel,  or  unknown  murder  during  the  night ;  and  all  who  miss  a  friend, 
a  parent  or  a  brother,  resort  to  these  iron  bars  to  seek  the  lost  one.  It  is 
painful  to  behold  the  scenes  to  which  this  melancholy  assemblage  fre- 
quently give  rise,  and  hear  the  wails  of  sorrow  that  break  from  the  home- 
less orphan,  whose  parent  lies  murdered  on  the  stones  of  the  dead-house. 

Yet  this  is  scarcely  more  shocking  than  the  scenes  presented  by  the 
living,  within  the  walls  of  the  loathsome  prison.  A  strong  guard  of  mili- 
tary is  stationed  at  the  gate,  and  you  enter,  after  due  permission  from  the 
commanding  officer.  A  gloomy  stair  leads  to  the  second  story,  the  en- 
trance to  which  is  guarded  by  a  portal  massive  enough  to  resist  the  assault 
of  a  powerful  force.  "Within,  a  lofty  apartment  is  filled  with  the  officers 
of  the  prison  and  a  crowd  of  subalterns,  engaged  in  writing,  talking, 
and  walking — amid  the  hum  of  the  crowd,  the  clank  of  chains,  the  shout 
of  prisoners,  and  the  eternal  din  of  an  ill-regulated  establishment. 

Passing  through  several  iron  and  wood- barred  gates,  you  enter  a  lofty 
corridor,  running  around  a  quadrangular  court-yard,  in  the  centre  of 
which,  beneath,  is  a  fountain  of  troubled  water.  The  whole  of  this  area  is 
filled  with  human  beings — the  great  congress  of  Mexican  crime — mixed 
and  mingling,  like  a  hill  of  busy  ants  swarming  from  their  sandy  caverns. 
Some  are  stripped  and  bathing  in  the  fountain ;  some  are  fighting  in  a 
corner  ;  some  making  baskets  in  another.  In  one  place  a  crowd  is  gath- 
ered around  a  witty  story-teller,  relating  the  adventures  of  his  rascally 
life.  In  another,  a  group  is  engaged  in  weaving  with  a  hand-loom.  Rob- 
bers, murderers,  thieves,  ravishers,  felons  of  every  description,  and  vaga- 
bonds of  every  aspect,  are  crammed  within  this  court-yard  ; — and,  almost 
free  from  discipline  or  moral  restraint,  form,  perhaps,  the  most  splendid 
school  of  misdemeanor  and  villainy  on  the  American  Continent. 

Below,  within  the  corridor  of  the  second  story — from  which  I  have  de- 
scribed the  view  of  this  wretched  mass  of  humanity — a  rather  better  sort 
of  criminals  are  kept ;  and  yet,  even  here,  many  were  pointed  out  to  me 
as  being  under  sentence  of  death,  who  still  went  about  entirely  without 
restraint. 

In  one  corner  of  the  quadrangle  is  the  chapel,  where  convicts  for  capi- 
tal offences  are  condemned  to  solitude  and  penance,  during  the  three  last 
days  of  their  miserable  life ;  and,  at  a  certain  hour,  it  is  usual  for  all 
the  prisoners  to  gather  in  front  of  the  door,  and  chant  a  hymn  for  the 
victim  of  the  laws.     It  is  a  solemn  service  of  crime  for  crime. 

I  did  not  see  the  prison  for  the  women,  but  I  am  told  it  is  much  the  same 
as  the  one  I  have  just  described.  About  one  hundred  of  the  men,  chained 
in  pairs  like  galley  slaves,  are  driven  daily  into  the  streets,  under  a  strong 
guard,  as  scavengers  ;  and  it  seems  to  be  the  chief  idea  of  the  utility  of 
prisons  in  Mexico,  to  support  this  class  of  coerced  laborers. 

There  can  be  no  apology,  at  this  period  of  general  enlightenment  in  the 
world,  for  such  disgraceful  exhibitions  of  the  congregated  vice  of  a  coun- 
try. Punishment,  or  rather,  incarceration,  and  labor  on  the  streets,  in  the 
manner  I  have  described,  is,  in  fact,  no  sacrifice ; — both  because  public 


270  MEXICO. 

exhibition  deadens  the  felon's  shame,  and  because  it  cannot  become  an 
actual  punishment  under  any  circumstances  of  a  lepero's  life.  Indeed, 
what  object  in  existence  can  the  lepeio  propose  to  himself?  His  day  is 
one  of  precarious  labor  and  income  ;  he  thieves  ;  he  has  no  regular  home, 
or  if  he  has,  it  is  some  miserable  hovel  of  earth  and  mud,  where  his  wife 
and  children  crawl  about  with  scarce  the  instinct  of  beavers.  His  food 
and  clothing  are  scant  and  miserable.  He  is  without  education,  or  pros- 
pect of  improvement.  He  belongs  to  a  class  that  does  not  me.  He  dulls 
his  sense  of  present  misery  by  intoxicating  drinks.  His  quick  temper 
stimulates  him  to  quarrel.  His  sleep  is  heavy  and  unrefreshing,  and  he 
only  rises  to  a  day  of  similar  uncertainty  and  wickedness.  What,  then,  is 
the  value  of  life  to  him,  or  to  one  like  him  ?  Why  toil  ?  Why  not  steal? 
What  shame  has  he  1  Is  the  prison,  with  certainty  of  food — more  punish- 
ment than  the  free  air,  with  uncertainty  ?  On  the  contrary,  it  is  a  lighter 
punishment;  and  as  for  the  degradation,  he  knows  not  how  to  estimate  it. 
Mexico  will  thus  continue  to  be  infested  with  felons,  as  long  as  its  prison 
is  a  house  of  refuge,  and  a  comparatively  happy  home  to  so  large  a  portion 
of  its  outcast  population.* 

I  have  collected  some  statistical  information  on  these  subjects,  which  I 
think  will  be  interesting  in  connection  with  Mexican  prisons,  and  prove 
how  necessary  it  is,  in  the  first  place,  to  alter  their  whole  system  of 
coercive  discipline ;  and,  in  the  second,  to  strike  immediately  at  the  root 
of  the  evil,  by  improving  the  condition  of  the  people — by  educating,  and 
proposing  advantages  to  them,  in  the  cultivation  of  the  extensive  tracts 
of  country  that  now  lie  barren  over  their  immense  territory. 

IMPRISONMENTS  IN  MEXICO  FOR  1842. 

During  the  first  six  months  of  1842,  there  were  imprisoned  in  the  City  of 

Mexico, 3,197  men. 

1,427  women. 
During  the  second  six  months,       ....         2,858  men. 

1,379  women. 


Total  of  both  sexes  for  1842,         8,861 

Without  specifying  each  of  the  several  crimes,  for  which  these  persons 
were  committed  to  prison,  or  being  able,  from  all  the  accounts  furnished 
me,  to  state  the  exact  number  of  those  who  were  finally  convicted,  I  will 

*  As  an  evidence  of  the  little  vnluc  these  teperos  place  upon  their  lives,— an  old  resident  in  Mexico  told  me, 
that  he  had  once  been  the  witness  of  a  street-fight  between  two  women,  which  resulted  in  the  use  of  knives,  and 
the  ripping  of  one's  belly,  so  thnt  her  bowels  were  exposed.  The  wound  was  not  ratal,  and  as  soon  as  she  had 
slightly  recovered  from  the  loss  of  blood,  while  the  attendants  were  preparing  a  litter,  she  drew  forth  a  rigurrito 
from  her  bosom,  obtuined  a  light  from  a  bystander,  and  was  bomc  off  to  the  hospital,  smoking  as  contentedly  as 
if  preparing  for  a  siesta  I 


Men. 

Women. 

Total. 

312 

179 

491 

,500 

470 

1,970 

!,129 

1,104 

3,233 

612 

444 

1,056 

i,   70 

17 

87 

65 

21 

86 

7 

1 

8 

3 

0 

3 

PUBLIC    INSTITUTIONS.  271 

present  some  lists  of  the  numbers  imprisoned  for  the  chief  crimes,  during 
the  whole  year. 


1.  Prostitution,  adultery,  bigamy,  sodomy,  incest, 

2.  Robbery,  -         -         -         -.        - 

3.  Quarreling  and  wounding,  -         - 

4.  Quarreling,  bearing  arms,  &c. 

5.  Homicide,  attempt  at  do.,  and  robbery  and  homicide,   70 

6.  Rape  and  incontinence,      - 

7.  Forgery,  ...... 

8.  Gambling,         -         -         -         -         • 

Which,  added  together,  give  the  frightful  amount  of        -         -     6,934 

males  and  females,  for  the  higher  crimes  and  misdemeanors — leaving  a 
balance  of  1,927  only,  to  be  divided  among  the  lesser.  It  should  be  stated, 
in  addition  to  the  above,  that  numbers  were  committed  for  throwing  vitriol 
on  the  clothes  and  faces  of  persons  passing  along  the  street; — that  113 
dead  bodies  were  found; — 17  individuals  executed,* — and  894  sent  to 
the  hospital. 

The  sum  of  $4,121  is  expended  in  salaries  of  officers  for  this  Institution, 
and  $30,232  for  the  support  of  the  prisoners. 


ACADEMY   OF   ARTS. 


Let  us  pass  from  this  examination  of  vice  and  immorality  in  Mexico, 
to  something  more  agreeable. 

My  expectations  had  been  greatly  excited  by  the  Baron  Humboldt's 
account  of  the  Academy  of  Fine  Arts  ;  but  how  greatly  was  I  disap- 
pointed, in  its  comparatively  miserable  condition  at  present !  It  has  shared 
the  fate  of  the  University,  Museum,  Mineria,  and  other  public  institutions. 
The  halls  are  untenanted.  The  multitudes,  described  by  the  Baron  as 
attending  the  instruction  of  Professors,  and  sketching  from  the  splendid 
collections  of  antique  casts, — have  departed.  One  artist  occupies  an  ill- 
arranged  studio  in  a  dark  corner  of  the  buildings,  and  paints  stiff  figures 
of  formal  officers  in  gold  lace,  embroidery  and  crosses,  in  a  style  as  dis- 
agreeable as  his  manners. 

*  The  mode  of  execution  in  Mexico,  as  in  Spain,  is  by  the  garrotte.  The  culprit  is  seated  in  a  chair,  and  his 
neck  is  placed  in  an  iron  collar,  which  may  be  contracted  by  a  screw.  A  sudden  turn  drives  a  spike  through  the 
spinal  marrow  at  the  same  time  that  the  collar  closes  round  the  throat  of  the  victim.  Life  is  almost  immediately 
extinct,  and  the  sufferings  are  consequently  but  trifling.  The  crowd,  to  see  those  executions,  in  Mexico,  are  innu- 
merable. 

According  to  Humboldt,  there  were  in  1790,  in  all  the  prisons  of  Mexico,  770  of  both  sexes,  for  all  crimes,  out 
of  a  population  of  about  113,000. 


272  MEXICO. 

It  is  to  be  hoped  that  with  the  "  regeneration  of  the  Republic,"  this 
branch  of  tasteful  science  will  be  properly  encouraged,  and  the  remark- 
ably acute  and  imitative  talents  of  the  natives  subjected  to  a  discipline, 
that  cannot  fail  to  rank  the  Mexicans  high  in  the  grade  of  distinguished  art. 

The  old  Spanish  government  supplied  this  Institution  with  a  revenue 
of  near  twenty-five  thousand  dollars  a  year  ;  and,  at  an  expense  of  forty 
thousand  dollars,  safely  transported  to  Mexico  over  the  rough  mountain 
roads  and  passes,  a  beautiful  collection  of  casts  of  the  most  renowned  sta- 
tues and  groups  of  antiquity.  These,  I  am  glad  to  say,  are  altogether 
uninjured,  and  still  adorn  the  lonely  halls  of  the  neglected  Academy. 

I  asked  for  the  pictures  of  the  former  scholars,  and  a  few  were  shown 
me,  bad  in  coloring  and  worse  in  outline.  I  asked  for  the  drawings ;  and 
the  answer  was,  that  there  were  none  but  a  few  sketches  hung  along 
the  walls,  bearing  the  date  of  long  passed  years.  Among  them,  how- 
ever, I  could  not  avoid  noticing  a  drawing  in  ink  by  one  of  the  pupils, 
which,  had  it  been  executed  on  copper,  would  have  ranked  him  high  in 
the  list  of  the  engravers  of  the  period. 


PRIVATE    CABINETS. 


The  private  collections  of  Mexico  are  not  very  numerous.  Don  Jose 
Gomez,  ex-Conde  de  la  Cortina,  has  a  rare  collection  of  offensive  and 
defensive  arms,  ancient  and  modern,  chronologically  arranged.  In  addi- 
tion to  this,  he  has  gathered  a  number  of  interesting  memorials  of  his  own 
country,  together  with  some  original  pictures,  and  copies  of  the  most  dis- 
tinguished artists  of  the  Dutch,  French,  Flemish,  Spanish  and  Italian 
schools.  Among  the  painters  are  Murillo,  Morales,  Julio  Romano,  Paul 
Veronese,  Salvator,  Watteau,  Mignard,  David,  and  Laflond. 

PENASCO'S   COLLECTION. 

The  Museum  of  Don  Jose  Mariano  Sanchez  y  Mora,  ex-Conde  del 
Penasco,  is  comprised  in  four  branches : — Antiquities,  natural  history, 
paintings,  and  instruments  of  the  physical  sciences.  His  collection  of 
coins  is  extremely  valuable,  consisting  of  upward  of  three  thousand  speci- 
mens ;  and  his  mineralogical  cabinet  is  unquestionably  the  rarest  in  the 
Republic.  The  ores — amethysts,  emeralds,  and  diamonds,  would,  alone, 
almost  make  the  fortune  of  a  European  collector. 

Don  Jose  was  kind  enough  to  permit  me  frequently  to  examine  his 
Museum  of  Mexican  Antiquities,  and  to  present  me  with  some  rare  and 
interesting  idols.  He  possesses  several,  Indian  manuscripts  in  the  ancient 
picture-writing,  and  a  collection  of  dii  pennies,  talismans,  amulets,  and 
musical  instruments  made  of  serpentine,  basalt  and  clay. 


PRIVATE    CABINETS. 


273 


The  above  cuts  represent  two  stamps  or  seals  of  baked  clay,  with  which 
the  Indians  were  accustomed  to  impress  marks  upon  their  cottons.  They 
go  far  to  prove  how  near  these  people  were  to  the  discovery  of  the  art  of 
printing. 


18 


274 


MEXICO 


[n  the  National  Museum  and  in  the  collection  of  the  Conde,  are  several 
masks,  made  of  obsidian,  said  to  have  been  found  in  Indian  tombs,  cover- 
ing the  faces  of  skeletons,  the  remains,  perhaps,  of  some  of  the  illustrious 
dead  of  the  Empire.  The  one  here  represented  was  found  in  the  Depart- 
ment of  Chiapas.  When  you  recollect  the  exceedingly  frail  and  glass- 
like material  out  of  which  these  things  are  cut,  you  cannot  fail  to  be 
struck  with  the  skill  and  ingenuity  of  the  person  who  contrived  to  work  it 
into  the  semblance  of  human  features,  without  fracturing  the  mass,  and 
gave  to  the  whole  a  polish  resembling  that  of  the  finest  mirrors.  You  will 
be  the  more  surprised  at  this  on  looking  at  the  following  ring, 


also  made  of  obsidian,  and  but  one-tenth  of  an  inch  in  thickness  !  It  is 
perfectly  transparent,  beautifully  wrought,  and  apparently  so  brittle  and 
thin,  that  the  slightest  blow  would  fracture  it. 


The  above  is  also  a  mask,  about  a  foot  long,  made,  not  of  obsidian,  but 
of  serpentine.  There  are  holes,  as  you  perceive,  in  the  upper  part, 
which  were  doubtless  used  to  suspend  it  before  the  face  of  some  of  the 
idols,  according  to  one  of  the  occasional  rites  of  their  worship.  This 
mask  is  extremely  interesting,  because  it  is  a  perfect  profile  of  the  present 
race  of  Indians,  who  frequent  the  very  spot  at  St.  Jago  de  Tlaltelolco, 
where  the  relic  was  found. 


MEXICAN    IDOLS 


275 


This  is  an  idol  found  at  Tula — the  ancient  capital  of  the  Toltecs.  The 
second  figure  represents  the  bottom  of  the  statue,  and  the  whole  appears 
to  have  been  a  Toad  or  Frog — the  croaking  annoyer  of  some  marshy 
neighborhood,  who  was  raised  to  the  dignity  of  a  divinity  in  stone  and 
propitiated  by  the  offer  of  an  occasional  sacrifice. 

And  so,  perhaps,  was  the  Grasshopper  in  the  following  figure,  found  in 
the  Capital,  cut  out  of  red  marble  and  beautifully  polished.  It  is  said  to 
be  the  god  of  Chapultepec — the  "  hill  of  the  Cicala." 


276  MEXICO. 

The  next  is  a  Sacrificial  Yoke,  similar  to  the  one  described  at  page  121. 


The  two  following  figures  are  those  of  Serpents,  ten  and  nineteen  inches 
in  diameter — and  carved  from  basalt.  They  were  no  doubt  connected 
with  the  worship  of  the  god  Quetzalcoatl,  which  I  have  heretofore  de- 
scribed to  you. 


MEXICAN     IDOLS 


277 


278 


MEXICO. 


The  preceding  are  four  figures  of  unknown  idols.  One  seems  to  rep- 
resent a  deformed  Dwar^j  another,  a  gaping  Baboon  ;  and  the  third  is  a 
monkey's  or  Idiot's  head,  cut  out  of  white  marble,  found  some  years  since 
in  the  Misteca ;  and  the  fourth  is  a  mutilated  body  neatly  carved  in  ser- 
pentine. 

But  the  finest  idol-specimen  contained  in  tlie  Conde's  gallery,  is  the 
next  that  I  have  delineated.  It  was  brought  to  him  from  Oajaca,  the  an- 
cient country  of  Mitla  and  the  Zapotecs — lying  southwestwardly  from  the 
Valley  of  Mexico — and  is  beautifully  carved  from  a  white  sandstone, 
similar,  I  think,  in  material,  to  those  found  farther  south  by  Mr.  Stephens. 


COMPARISON     OF     IDOLS. 


279 


You  cannot  fail  to  notice  the  tasteful  arrangement  of  the  head-dress,  re- 
sembling those  of  our  Indians  as  exhibited  in  the  following  designs,  taken, 
for  the  sake  of  illustration,  from  the  work  of  Mr.  Catlin. 


290 


MEXICO 


In  the  first  figure,  you  will  observe  feathers  depending  from  the  crest 
and  back,  similar  to  those  on  the  sculptures  of  Xochicalco  and  Palenque ; 
and,  in  the  second,  you  will  perceive  that  they  are  arranged  in  a  circle 
of  rays,  so  as  to  be  seen  in  front,  as  on  the  statue  from  Oajaca.  Another 
thing  is  interesting  in  these  figures  of  our  Northern  Indians.  On  the 
robe  of  the  first  Indian  is  an  open  hand.  This,  too,  has  been  the  subject 
of  great  speculation  by  recent  writers.  Mr.  Stephens  found  it  constantly 
in  the  temples  he  explored.  It  is  in  several  places  on  the  sides  of  the 
"  gladiatorial  stone,"  at  page  124  of  these  letters ;  and  Mr.  Schoolcraft 
(unquestionably  the  best  informed  of  our  Indian  scholars,)  regards  it  as 
emblematic  of  strength,  courage  and  -power. 

The  figure  in  the  collection  of  the  Conde  del  Penasco,  is  a  deity  con- 
nected with  the  Indian  notions  of  fruition  or  plenty.  The  ears  of  corn  in 
the  head-dress  indicate  this  idea,  while  the  whole,  perhaps,  may  be  an  idol 
of  Centeotl,  the  "goddess  of  the  Earth  and  Grain"  or,  (as  she  was  more 
confidingly  called,)  "  she  who  supports  us." 


I  had  just  finished  sketching  the  idols  represented  in  the  preceding 
plates,  when  I  was  called  to  the  window  by  the  noise  of  a  crowd  below, 
gathered  around  a  man  lying  on  his  back.  I  presumed  it  to  be  one  of 
the  numberless  street-fights  or  quarrels  with  which  you  arc  daily  an- 
noyed in  this  Capital,  and  was  about  retiring,  when  the  fellow  suddenly 
raised  his  legs  in  the  air — balanced  himself  by  his  shoulders — and,  pitch- 
ing up  a  pole  horizontally,  caught  it  on  his  feet. 


This,  too,  was  a  remnant  of  antiquity  ;  and  having  sketched  the  exhib- 
itor alongside  of  an  idol,  I  do  not  think  him  out  of  place  in  this  letter. 

The  ancient  Mexicans  had  a  variety  of  similar  sports; — such  a3  bal- 
ancing on  each  other's  shoulders;  on  staves;  and  on  wheels  whirling  in 
the  air ;  but  this  exercise,  with  the  pole  or  beam,  was  perhaps  the  most 


THE    MOUNTEBANK. 


281 


common  of  all,  and  ordinarily  practiced,  in  the  streets,  as  a  decent  mode 
of  begging. 

The  operator  is  usually  stripped  to  his  trowsers,  and  his  capital  in 
trade  consists  of  a  pair  of  stout  thighs  and  muscular  calves.  The  pole 
once  balanced  on  the  soles  of  his  feet,  he  plays  all  manner  of  tricks  with 
it  as  easily  as  if  it  were  in  his  hands ;  but  I  have  never  seen  them  sport, 
as  the  ancients  are  said  to  have  done,  with  men  seated  on  each  end  of  the 
heavy  bar. 


AGAVE     AMERICANA 


LETTER    XXVII. 

DESAGUA.       CARRIAGES.       MULES.       TROOPS.       MUSIC.       OPERA.      RECRUITS. 
THEATRES.       MEXICAN    THIEVES.       THE    JUDGE    AND    TURKEY. 

Mexico,  lying  in  the  lap  of  a  valley,  with  mountains  around  it  contin- 
ually pouring  their  streams  into  the  sandy  soil,  has  been  frequently  in 
danger  of  returning  to  the  "slime  from  whence  she  rose."  Since  the 
trees  have  been  cut  from  the  plains  and  the  surface  exposed  to  the  direct 
action  of  the  sun,  the  valley  has  become  drier,  and  the  lake  has  shrunk ; 
but  Mexico  has,  nevertheless,  been  several  times  threatened  with  inunda- 
tions. 

In  estimating  the  dangerous  situation  of  the  Metropolis,  it  is  necessary 
for  you  to  recollect  the  position  and  levels  of  the  adjacent  lakes.  South- 
eastwardly  is  the  lake  of  Chalco;  northwestwardly  the  lake  of  Tezcoco; 
and  north  of  that  again,  in  a  continuous  chain,  are  the  lakes  of  San  Cris- 
toval  and  Zumpango.  The  latter  sheet  of  water  is  about  eighteen  feet 
higher  than  San  Cristoval, — San  Cristoval  is  twelve  feet  higher  than  Tez- 
coco,— and  the  level  of  the  great  Square  of  Mexico  is  not  more  than  three 
feet  above  that  of  Tezcoco.  Thus,  the  head  of  water  which  could  be 
easily  poured  over  the  Capital  is  immense,  especially  as  the  river  Cuautit- 
lan  pours  an  additional  stream  constantly  into  the  northern  link  of  the 
chain  at  Zumpango.  In  1629  the  whole  city  of  Mexico,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  Plaza,  was  laid  waste  by  inundation.  In  most  of  the  streets 
the  water  continued  for  upward  of  three  years,  and,  until  1634,  portions 
of  the  town  were  still  traversed  by  canoes. 

So  great  was  the  misery  and  want  caused  by  this  misfortune,  that  the 
Court  of  Spain  had  issued  orders  to  abandon  the  Capital  and  build  a  new 
one,  between  Tacuba  and  Tacubaya,  on  upland  levels,  that  had  never 
been  reached  by  the  lakes  before  the  conquest.  An  earthquake,  how- 
ever, rent  the  earth  and  freed  the  city  of  the  accumulated  waters ;  and 
the  result  of  this  warning  was  the  completion  of  an  immense  Desagua  or 
sewer,  which  thoroughly  empties  the  ordinary  contents  of  the  valley.  But 
urgent  as  was  the  necessity  for  this  work,  it  was  procrastinated  by  the 
dilatoriness  of  Mexican  laborers,  until  the  year  1789.  "The  whole  length 
of  the  cut,"  is  said  by  Mr.  Ward,  "to  be,  from  the  sluice  called  Vertide- 
ros,  to  the  salto  of  the  river  Tula,  67,537  feet ;  where  the  waters  are 
discharged  at  a  spot  about  300  feet  beneath  the  level  of  the  lake  of  Zum- 


TERMINATION  OF  AQUEDUCT  IN-  MEXICO. 


SPANISH    AQUEDUCTS.  383 

pango."  The  estimate  of  the  whole  cost  of  this  gigantic  enterprise,  and 
its  necessary  repairs,  until  the  year  1830,  is  $8,000,000;  yet,  with  all 
the  expenditure  and  vast  labor,  it  may  still  prove,  in  certain  cases,  only 
efficacious  against  a  portion  of  the  waters  that  are  collected  in  the  val- 
ley. South  of  the  Capital  are  the  lakes  of  Chalco  and  Xochimilco,  and 
their  level  is  more  than  a  yard  higher  than  that  of  the  great  Square  of 
Mexico. 

This  Desagua,  and  the  noble  aqueducts  by  which  the  city  is  supplied, 
are  the  only  very  great  enterprises,  of  this  character,  in  the  country  ; 
and  they  are  all  owing  to  the  energy  of  the  old  Spanish  government, 
which  emulated  the  magnificence  of  the  Romans  in  its  public  improve- 
ments, connected  with  elegance  and  comfort.  During  the  royal  sway 
the  roads,  also,  were  properly  made  and  repaired ;  but  since  the  Revo- 
lution, when  most  of  them  were  torn  up  to  prevent  the  passage  of  troops, 
or  destroyed  by  the  transit  of  artillery,  they  have  been  abandoned  to 
the  weather  and  travel,  so  that  in  fact,  (with  the  exception  of  the  high- 
way to  Vera  Cruz,  which  has  recently  been  improved,)  there  is  scarcely 
a  road  in  the  Republic  that  does  not  resemble  more  the  deserted  bed  of 
a  mountain  stream,  than  a  work  intended  to  facilitate  communication. 
The  idea  of  "  internal  improvements"  has  never  entered  into  the  cal- 
culation of  these  people  ; — though,  some  years  since,  a  scheme  was 
set  on  foot  to  construct  a  railway  from  the  coast  to  the  Capital,  and  its 
practicability  proved  by  a  scientific  reconnoissance.  Adventures  of  this 
character  will  be  the  first  evidences  of  the  growth  of  mind  among  the 
masses  in  Mexico,  when  they  are  taught  to  believe  that  they  have  other 
sources  of  wealth  besides  mines,  and  that  riches  do  not  consist  alone  in 
gold  and  silver.  Until  that  period,  the  patient  and  toilsome  mule  will 
continue  to  be  the  means  of  transportation  of  the  chief  burdens  from  the 
sea  to  the  interior. 

M  we  suppose  it  to  be  perfectly  practicable  to  make  a  railway  of  about 
350  miles  in  length,  with  all  its  sinuosities,  from  Vera  Cruz  to  the  Cap- 
ital, I  think  the  following  estimate  may  be  reasonably  made  of  the  profits 
of  such  an  enterprise ;  especially,  when  it  is  recollected  that  the  distance 
will  be  passed  in  less  than  24  hours,  instead  of  four  days,  (as  at  present  in 
the  diligence,)  and  from  eighteen  to  twenty -jive  days,  by  mules  and  wagons. 

Cost  of  Railway,  say,        -  $6,000,000 

Motive  power,  cars,  &c.  -  200,000 

Contingent  expenses,  '-.-..  300,000 


$6,500,000 


The  interest  on  which,  per  annum,  at  6  per  cent,  will  be    $390,000 

It  may  be  estimated,  that  about  fifty  thousand  tuns  are  imported  an- 
nually into  Vera  Cruz.  A  tun  weight  is  transported  usually  on  about 
seven  mules,  each  mule  load  being  worth  $25,  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Mexico. 


284  MEXICO. 

Fifty  thousand  tuns  will  then  cost  for  transportation  $8,750,000.  But 
suppose  we  take  only  the  half,  or  twenty-five  thousand  tuns  to  be  trans- 
ported to  the  interior,  and  we  shall  have  for  the  cost,  $4,375,000,  for 
the  annual  value  of  mule  freight. 

I  think  it  would  be  perfectly  fair  to  consider  this  sum  as  the  income  of 
a  railway,  (at  least,  during  the  first  years  of  the  enterprise,)  especially 
when  the  transportation  of  passengers  and  the  speed  with  which  merchants 
will  be  served  with  their  goods,  are  taken  into  consideration  as  induce- 
ments. 

The  statement  of  freights  which  I  have  made  above,  is  only  of  carriage 
to  the  Capital ;  an  equal  sum,  nearly,  may  be  expected  to  cover  the  trans- 
portation from  it,  including  passengers,  and  pay  for  the  portage  of  coin 
and  bullion  to  the  coast.  But,  if  nothing  more  than  $4,375,000,  in  all, 
are  raised  as  income,  you  will  perceive  that  the  road  must  pay  for  itself 
in  less  than  two  years,  or  yield  (after  deducting  expenses,)  more  than 
thirty  per  cent,  to  its  shareholders.  If  the  low  cost  of  the  railway  is 
objected  to,  let  the  estimate  be  doubled,  and  still  the  profits  will  be  pro- 
portionably  great,  if  we  take  into  account  the  extension  of  business  that 
will  be  created  by  the  increase  of  facilities. 

I  think  it  may  be  safely  stated,  that  two  thousand  passengers  pass  over 
the  road  every  year  between  Vera  Cruz  and  Mexico,  each  paying  $50 
for  his  seat,  or,  $100,000  in  all.  How  great  would  be  the  increase  of 
travelling — the  security  of  life  and  property  from  robbers — the  induce- 
ments to  trade — and  the  general  promotion  of  the  prosperity  of  the  Re- 
public, by  an  outlay  of  money  at  so  profitable  an  interest  !* 

MEXICAN  COACHES  AND  MULES. 

Not  the  least  singular  of  the  sights  of  the  Metropolis,  are  the  mules 
harnassed  to  the  antique  vehicles  still  used  by  some  of  the  old-fashioned 
folks  of  Mexico.  The  carriage  is  usually  quite  globular,  or  tun-like, 
with  its  doors  and  sides  covered  with  elaborate  gilding  and  painting. 
This  clumsy  cavity  is  suspended  on  a  carved  and  gaudy-colored  frame- 
work, or  square  scaffolding,  resting  on  enormous  wheels ;  and  the  whole 
machine  has  the  appearance  of  a  big  fly  hanging  in  the  midst  of  a 
spider-web.  A  long  pole  extends  in  front,  to  which  are  attached  a  pair 
of  mules,  almost  hidden  in  a  heavy  harness  studded  with  brass  bosses  and 
shining  ornaments,  while  the  tails  of  the  luckless  animals  are  invariably 
stuck  into  leathern  bags  by  way  of  queue !  A  postillion,  with  short  jacket, 
of  brown  stamped  leather,  embroidered  with  green  braid ;  stout  leggings, 

*  Since  the  above  was  written,  I  learn  that  the  Government  has  issued  orders  for  the  repair  and  improvement  of 
roads  all  over  the  Republic.  An  enterprise  has  been  actually  set  on  foot  by  Mexican  merchants  of  great  wealth 
and  respectability,  to  open  a  communication  with  the  Pacific,  across  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantcpec,  partly  by 
railway. 

The  railway  from  Vera  Cruz  to  the  river  San  Juan,  in  the  direction  of  Jalapa,  has  also  been  commenced,  and 
laborers  are  already  at  work  on  four  miles  of  the  twenty-oneof  which  it  is  to  coruist. 


TROOPS     OF    THE    LINE.  285 

spurs  with  two-inch  rowels ;  broad-brimmed  hat,  and  whip  of  sounding 
thong,  bestrides  one  of  the  beasts ;.  and  the  whole  apparatus  moves  off 
with  a  slow  lumbering  pace,  that  resembles  in  motion  and  appearance 
nothing  that  I  can  noAV  recollect,  but  one  of  those  old-fashioned  wooden 
houses,  that,  in  times  long  past,  we  used  to  see  removed  from  street  to 
street,  until  they  disappeared  in  the  suburbs. 

Even  the  riding  horses  of  the  Mexicans  are  not  yet  freed  from  the  an- 
cient lumber  and  trappings  with  which  their  ancestors  covered  them.  At 
page  163,  you  will  find  a  picture  of  a  Mexican  horseman,  and  observe 
that  the  animal's  haunches  are  covered  with  a  sort  of  hemisphere  of  leather 
terminated  by  an  iron  fringe,  that  jingles  with  every  movement.  This 
cumbrous  hide  was  originally  designed,  at  the  period  of  the  conquest,  as 
an  armor  for  the  protection  of  the  horse  from  Indian  arrows,  while  the 
guard  was  continued  in  front  of  the  beast  by  a  similar  apron  that  shielded 
his  neck  and  throat.  But  now,  although  there  are  no  more  assailants  of 
the  peaceful  riders,  you  may  still  frequently  observe  this  uncouth  cover- 
ing on  the  finest  animals  ;  and  the  apology  for  the  usage  is,  that  by  contin- 
ually striking  on  a  certain  point  of  his  hind  legs  with  the  lower  fringe  of 
iron,  the  horse  is  forced  into  a  short,  ambling  trot,  which  is  held  to  be  the 
summum  bonum  of  Mexican  comfort  in  the  saddle.  I  confess,  that  I  saw 
no  beauty  in  the  mincing  gate  which  is  thus  acquired,  especially  as  the 
animal  most  celebrated  for  it  in  Mexico  scarcely  advanced  a  dozen  yards 
in  a  minute,  while,  from  the  amount  of  exercise  he  appeared  to  be  taking, 
and  the  incessant  pawing  of  his  feet  and  chafing  of  his  bit,  an  observer 
would  be  induced  to  believe  that  he  advanced  at  a  furious  pace.  It 
is  one  of  those  capricious  luxuries  to  which  men  resort,  when  they  have 
exhausted  the  round  of  natural  and  simple  tastes. 

I  have  forgotten  to  say  anything  to  you  hitherto  of  the  parades  of  troops, 
for  which  this  Capital  is  in  some  degree  famous.  As  I  profess  to  have 
no  military  knowledge,  you  must  not  expect  a  very  critical  account  of 
their  appearance  or  manoeuvres ;  but  I  have  seldom  seen  better  looking 
regiments  in  Europe  than  the  11th  Infantry,  under  the  command  of  Lom- 
bardini.  The  uniform  is  white,  like  the  Austrian,  and  is  kept  in  excel- 
lent order.  The  arms  are  clean  and  bright,  and  the  officers  of  division 
appear  to  be  well  trained,  and  to  have  imparted  their  training  to  the  men. 
On  the  13th  of  June  last,  about  eight  thousand  of  these  troops  were  brought 
together,  to  be  reviewed  by  General  Santa  Anna,  on  the  meadows  south 
of  the  city.  In  line  they  had  an  extremely  martial  bearing,  and,  so  far 
'as  I  was  able  to  judge  of  their  skill,  the  sham-fight  that  took  place  after- 
ward was  admirably  executed.  Excellent  and  daring  riders,  as  are  all 
the  Mexicans,  they  must  ever  have  a  decided  advantage  in  their  cavalry; 
and,  although  they  did  not  present  so  splendid  an  appearance  in  equip- 
ments as  some  of  the  other  regiments,  I  have  no  doubt  they  constitute 
the  most  effective  arm  of  the  Mexican  service.  Indeed,  almost  all  the 
foreigners  (and  even  Texans,)  with  whom  I  have  spoken  in  regard  to 


286  MEXICO. 

the  qualities  of  the^e  men,  concur  in  a  high  estimate  of  the  Mexican 
soldier,  although  they  do  not  think  so  well  of  the  Mexican  officer.  This, 
in  all  probability,  arises  from  the  irregular  manner  in  which  persons 
arrive  at  command,  and  the  want  of  soldierlike  education  and  discipline. 
Officers  have  been,  most  frequently,  taken  at  once  from  private  life,  or 
pursuits  by  no  means  warlike,  and  found  themselves  suddenly  at  the  head 
of  troops,  without  a  knowledge  of  their  duties,  either  in  the  barrack,  camp, 
or  field  ;  or  a  due  estimate  of  the  virtues  of  obedience,  and  that  disciplined 
courage,  arising  from  a  perfect  self-reliance  in  every  emergency.  The 
result  of  this  unfortunate  state  of  things  has  been,  that,  in  conflicts  with 
the  Texans,  while  the  men  have  often  appeared  anxious  to  fight,  they  lacked 
officers  who  were  willing  to  lead  them  into  the  thick  of  the  mette. 

You  can  fancy  nothing  more  odd,  than  the  manner  in  which  this  army 
is  recruited.  A  number  of  men  are  perhaps  wanted  to  complete  a  new 
company,  and  a  sergeant  with  his  guard  is  forthwith  dispatched  to  inspect 
the  neighboring  Indians  and  Meztizoes.  The  subaltern  finds  a  dozen  or 
more  at  work  in  the  fields ;  and,  without  even  the  formality  of  a  request, 
immediately  picks  his  men  and  orders  them  into  the  ranks.  If  they  at- 
tempt to  escape  or  resist,  they  are  at  once  lassoed  ;  and,  at  nightfall,  the 
whole  gang  is  marched,  tied  in  pairs,  into  the  quartel  of  the  village  or 
the  guardroom  of  the  Palace,  with  a  long  and  lugubrious  procession  of 
wives  and  children,  weeping  and  howling  for  the  loss  of  their  martial 
mates.  Next  day  the  "  volunteers"  ai'e  handed  over  to  the  drill-sergeant ; 
and  I  have  often  laughed  most  heartily  at  the  singular  group  presented 
by  these  new-caught  soldiers,  on  their  first  parade  under  their  military 
tutor.  One  half  of  their  number  are  always  Indians,  and  the  rest,  most 
likely,  leperos.  One  has  a  pair  of  trowsers,  but  no  shirit ;  another  a  shirt 
and  a  pair  of  drawers ;  another  hides  himself,  as  well  as  he  can,  under  his 
blanket  and  broad-brimmed  hat ;  another  has  drawers  and  a  military  cap. 
But  the  most  ridiculous  looking  object  1  remember  to  have  seen  in  Mexico, 
was  a  fat  and  greasy  lepero,  who  had  managed  to  possess  himself  of  a 
pair  of  trowsers  that  just  reached  his  hips,  and  were  kept  up  by  a  strap 
around  his  loins,  together  with  an  old  uniform  coat  a  great  deal  too  short 
for  him,  both  in  the  sleeves,  and  on  the  front.  As  he  was  not  lucky 
enough  to  own  a  shirt,  a  vast  continent  of  brown  stomach  lay  shining  in 
the  sun  between  the  unsociable  garments  !  He  held  his  head  (which  was 
supported  by  a  tall  stock,)  higher  than  any  man  in  the  squad,  and  marched 
magnificently — especially  in  "  lock  step  !" 

The  drilling  of  these  men  is  constant  and  severe.  The  sergeant  is 
generally  a  well-trained  soldier,  and  unsparing  in  the  use  of  his  long 
hard  rod  for  the  slightest  symptom  of  neglect.  In  a  few  weeks,  after  the 
new  troops  acquire  the  ordinary  routine  of  duty,  they  are  put  into  uniform, 
paraded  through  the  streets,  and  you  would  scarcely  believe  they  ever  had 


MUSIC,    OPERA,    THEATRES.  287 

been  the  coarse  Indians,  and  scurvy  leperos,  who  robbed  you  on  the  road 
or  pilfered  your  pockets  in  the  streets. 


It  would  be  improper,  in  speaking  of  the  Mexican  military,  not  to  notice, 
especially,  their  excellent  bands  of  music.  The  Spaniards  transplanted 
their  love  and  taste  for  this  beautiful  science  to  Mexico.  The  Indians 
have  caught  the  spirit  from  their  task-masters ; — and  whether  it  be  in  the 
tinkling  guitar  or  the  swelling  harmonies  of  a  united  corps,  you  can  scarce 
go  wrong,  in  expecting  an  exhibition  of  the  art  from  a  native.  It  is  the 
custom  for  one  of  the  regimental  bands  to  meet  after  sundown,  under  the 
windows  of  the  Palace,  in  the  Plaza,  which  is  filled  with  an  attentive 
crowd  of  eager  listeners  to  the  choicest  airs  of  modern  composers. 

I  have  said,  that  this  musical  taste  pervades  all  classes ;  and  it  was, 
therefore,  to  be  hoped,  that  a  regularly  established  Operatic  corps  would 
have  readily  succeeded  in  the  Capital.  But  from  a  variety  of  causes  the 
experiment  failed.  The  Revolution  of  1841,  interfered  with  it  at  the  out- 
set, in  the  months  of  August  and  September ;  and,  from  the  unfavorable 
location  of  the  house,  and  other  circumstances,  the  whole  enterprise  was 
visited  with  a  series  of  disastrous  losses  that  left  the  management,  in  July, 
1842,  with  a  deficit  of  upward  of  32,000  dollars.  The  singers  were 
good ;  the  prima  donna  (Madame  Castellan,)  and  basso,  unexceptionable ; 
but  the  establishment  never  became  fashionable. 

Not  so,  however,  with  the  Theatres ; — three  of  which  were  almost  con- 
stantly in  operation  while  I  resided  in  Mexico.  The  "Principal,"  the 
resort  of  the  old  aristocracy,  was  the  theatre  of  staid  fashion ; — the 
"  Nuevo  Mexico,"  a  haunt  of  the  newer  people,  who  looked  down  on  the 
"  legitimate  drama,"  and  tolerated  the  excitement  of  innovation  and  nov- 
elty ; — and  the  "  Puente  Quebrada,"  a  species  of  San  Carlino,  where 
"  the  people"  revelled  in  the  coarser  jokes  and  broader  scenes  of  an  ad 
libitum  performance. 

I  frequently  visited  the  Principal,  but  kept  a  box  with  several  young 
friends  at  the  Nuevo  Mexico,  where  I  found  the  greatest  advantage  in 
the  study  of  the  Spanish  language,  from  the  excellent  recitations  of  the 
"  comicos."  Most  of  them  were  Castillians,  who  spoke  their  native  tongue 
with  all  the  distinctive  niceties  of  pronunciation,  besides  producing  all 
the  newest  efforts  of  the  Spanish  muse. 

It  was  singular  to  observe,  how  from  a  small  beginning  and  really 
excellent  performances,  the  taste  and  wealth  of  Mexico  was  gradually 
drawn  from  its  old  loves  at  the  Principal  to  the  daring  upstart.  I  have 
elsewhere  told  you  that  the  theatre  is  a  Mexican  necessary  of  life.  It  is 
the  legitimate  conclusion  of  a  day,  and  all  go  to  it ; — the  old,  because  they 
have  been  accustomed  to  do  so  from  their  infancy  ;  the  middle  aged,  be- 


288  MEXICO. 

cause  they  find  it  difficult  to  spend  their  time  otherwise  ;  and  the  young, 
for  a  thousand  reasons  which  the  young  will  most  readily  understand. 

The  boxes  are  usually  let  by  the  month  or  year,  and  are,  of  course, 
the  resort  of  families  who  fill  them  in  full  dress  every  evening,  and  use 
them  as  a  receiving-room  for  the  habitue's  of  their  houses  ;  although  it  is 
not  so  much  the  custom  to  visit  in  the  theatre  as  in  Italy. 

The  pit  is  the  paradise  of  bachelors.  Its  seats  are  arm-chairs,  rented 
by  the  month,  and  of  course  never  occupied  but  by  their  regular  owners. 
The  stage  is  large,  and  the  scenery  well  painted;  but  the  whole  per- 
formance becomes  rather  a  sort  of  mere  repetition  than  acting,  as  the 
"  comicos"  invariably  follow  the  words,  uttered  in  quite  a  loud  tone  by 
a  prompter,  who  sits  in  front  beneath  the  stage  with  his  head  only 
partially  concealed  by  a  wooden  hood.  A  constant  reliance  on  this 
person,  greatly  impairs  the  dramatic  effect,  and  makes  the  whole  little 
better  than  bad  reading ;  but  I  was  glad  to  perceive  that  the  actors  of 
Nuevo  Mexico  had  evidently  studied  their  parts,  and  really  performed  the 
characters  of  the  best  dramas  of  the  Spanish  school. 

I  cannot  but  think  this  habitual  domestication  at  the  theatre,  is  injurious 
to  the  habits  of  the  Mexicans.  It  makes  their  women  live  too  much  abroad, 
and  cultivates  a  love  of  admiration.  The  dull,  dawdling  morning  at  home, 
is  succeeded  by  an  evening  drive  ;  and  that,  again,  by  the  customary  seat 
at  the  Opera  or  Play-house,  where  they  listen  to  repetitions  of  the  same 
pieces,  flirt  with  the  same  cavaliers,  or  play  the  graceful  with  their 
fans.  If  the  entertainments  were  of  a  highly  intellectual  character,  or 
a  development  of  the  loftier  passions  of  the  soul,  (as  in  the  master-pieces 
of  our  English  school,)  there  would  be  some  excuse  for  an  indulgence 
of  this  national  taste  ;  but  the  disposition  of  the  audiences  is  chiefly 
directed,  either  toward  comedy,  or  to  a  vapid  melodrama  in  the  most 
prurient  style  of  the  modern  French.  Love  and  murder, — crime  and 
wickedness, — have  converted  the  stage  into  a  dramatic  Newgate,  where 
sentimental  felons  and  beautiful  females,  whose  morality  is  as  question- 
able as  the  color  of  their  cheeks,  are  made  by  turns  to  excite  our  wonder 
and  disgust. 


MEXICAN    ROGUERY. 

When  giving  you  an  account,  the  other  day,  of  Mexican  prisons  and 
prisoners,  I  forgot  to  relate  some  anecdotes  that  arc  told  in  the  Capital  of 
the  adroitness  of  native  thievery. 

Some  time  since,  an  English  gentleman  was  quietly  sauntering  along 
the   Portales — the   most  crowded  thoroughfare  of  Mexico — his  attention 


IMPUDENT    AND    ADROIT    THIEVES.  289 

being  occupied  with  the  variety  of  wares  offered  for  sale  by  the  small 
dealers ; — when,  suddenly,  he  felt  his  hat  gently  lifted  from  his  head. 
Before  he  could  turn  to  seize  the  thief,  the  rascal  was  already  a  dozen 
yards  distant,  dodging  through  the  crowd. 

Upon  another  occasion,  a  Mexican  was  stopped  in  broad  daylight,  in  a 
lonely  part  of  the  town,  by  three  men,  who  demanded  his  cloak.  Of 
course,  he  very  strongly  objected  to  parting  with  so  valuable  an  article ; 
when  two  of  them  placed  themselves  on  either  side  of  him,  and  the 
third,  seizing  the  garment,  immediately  disappeared,  leaving  the  victim 
in  the  grip  of  his  companions. 

His  cloak  gone,  he  naturally  imagined  that  the  thieves  had  no  further 
use  for  him,  and  attempted  to  depart.  The  vagabonds,  however,  told  him 
to  remain  patiently  where  he  was,  and  he  would  find  the  result  more 
agreeable  than  he  expected. 

In  the  course  of  fifteen  minutes  their  accomplice  returned,  and  politely 
bowing,  handed  the  gentleman  a  pawnbroker's  ticket ! 

"  We  wanted  thirty  dollars,  and  not  the  cloak,"  said  the  villain;  "here 
is  a  ticket,  with  which  you  may  redeem  it  for  that  sum  ;  and  as  the  cloak 
of  such  a  Caballero  is  unquestionably  worth  at  least  a  hundred  dollars, 
you  may  consider  yourself  as  having  made  seventy  by  the  transaction  I 
Vaya  con  Bios!" 

A  third  instance  of  prigging,  is  worthy  the  particular  attention  of  the 
London  swell  mob ;  and  I  question  if  it  has  been  surpassed  in  adroitness, 
for  some  time  past,  in  that  notorious  city,  where  boys  are  regularly  taught 
the  science  of  thieving,  from  the  simple  pilfer  of  a  handkerchief,  to  the 
compound  abstraction  of  a  gold  watch  and  guard-chain. 

A  TALE   OF  A  TURKEY. 

As  a  certain  learned  Judge  in  Mexico,  some  time  since,  walked  one 
morning  into  Court,  he  thought  he  would  examine  whether  he  was  in  time 
for  business ;  and,  feeling  for  his  repeater — found  it  was  not  in  his  pocket. 

"  As  usual,"  said  he  to  a  friend  who  accompanied  him,  as  he  passed 
through  the  crowd  near  the  door — "As  usual,  I  have  again  left  my 
watch  at  home  under  my  pillow." 

He  went  on  the  bench  and  thought  no  more  of  it.  The  Court  adjourned 
and  he  returned  home.  As  soon  as  he  was  quietly  seated  in  his  parlor, 
he  bethought  him  of  his  timepiece,  and  turning  to  his  wife,  requested  her 
to  send  for  it  to  their  chamber. 

"But,  my  dear  Judge,"  said  she,  "I  sent  it  to  you  three  hours  ago!" 

"  Sent  it  to  me,  my  dear  1     Certainly  not." 

"Unquestionably,"  replied  the  lady,  "  and  by  the  person  you  sent  for  it!" 

"  The  person  I  sent  for  it !"  echoed  the  Judge. 
19 


290  MEXICO. 

"  Precisely,  my  dear,  the  very  person  you  sent  for  it !  You  had  not 
left  home  more  than  an  hour,  when  a  well-dressed  man  knocked  at  the 
door  and  asked  to  see  me.  He  brought  one  of  the  very  finest  turkies  I 
ever  saw ;  and  said,  that  on  your  way  to  Court  you  met  an  Indian  with 
a  number  of  fowls,  and  having  bought  this  one,  quite  a  bargain,  you  had 
given  him  a  couple  of  reals  to  bring  it  home ;  with  the  request  that  I  would 
have  it  killed,  picked,  and  put  to  cool,  as  you  intended  to  invite  your 
brother  judges  to  a  dish  of  molU  with  you  to-morrow.  And,  '  Oh  !  by  the 
way,  Senorita,'  said  he,  '  his  Excellency,  the  Judge,  requested  me  to  ask 
you  to  give  yourself  the  trouble  to  go  to  your  chamber  and  take  his  watch 
from  under  the  pillow,  where  he  says  he  left  it,  as  usual,  this  morning, 
and  send  it  to  him  by  me.'     And,  of  course,  mi  querido,  I  did  so." 

"  You  did  ?"  said  the  Judge. 

"  Certainly,"  said  the  lady. 

"  Well,"  replied  his  Honor,  "  all  I  can  say  to  you,  my  dear,  is,  that 
you  are  as  great  a  goose,  as  the  bird  is  a  turkey.  You've  been  robbed, 
madam  ; — the  man  was  a  thief; — I  never  sent  for  my  watch  ; — you've 
been  imposed  on ; — and,  as  a  necessary  consequence,  the  confounded  watch 
lost  for  ever !" 

The  trick  was  a  cunning  one ;  and  after  a  laugh,  and  the  restoration  of 
the  Judge's  good-humor  by  a  good  dinner,  it  was  resolved  actually  to  have 
the  turkey  for  to-morrow's  dinner,  and  his  Honor's  brothers  of  the  bench 
to  enjoy  so  dear  a  morsel. 

Accordingly,  after  the  adjournment  of  Court  next  day,  they  all  repaired 
to  his  dwelling,  with  appetites  sharpened  by  the  expectation  of  a  rare 
repast. 

Scarcely  had  they  entered  the  sala  and  exchanged  the  ordinary  salu- 
tations, when  the  lady  broke  forth  with  congratulations  to  his  Honor  upon 
the  recovery  of  the  stolen  watch  ! 

"  How  happy  am  I,"  exclaimed  she,  "  that  the  villain  was  appre- 
hended !" 

"  Apprehended !"  said  the  Judge,  with  surprise. 

''Yes ;  and  doubtless  convicted,  too,  by  this  time,"  said  his  wife. 

"  You  are  always  talking  riddles,"  replied  he.  "  Explain  yourself, 
my  dear.     I  know  nothing  of  thief,  watch,  or  conviction." 

"  It  can't  be  possible  that  I  have  been  again  deceived,"  quoth  the  lady, 
"  but  this  is  the  story  : 

"  About  one  o'clock  to-day,  a  pale,  and  rather  interesting  young  gen- 
tleman, dressed  in  a  seedy  suit  of  black,  came  to  the  house  in  great  haste 
— almost  out  of  breath.  He  said  that  he  was  just  from  Court ; — that  he 
was  one  of  the  clerks ; — that  the  great  villain  who  had  had  the  audacity 
to  steal  your  Honor's  watch  had  just  been  arrested  ; — that  the  evidence 
was  nearly  perfect  to  convict  him  ; — and  all  that  was  required  to  complete 
it  was  'the  turkey,'  which  must  be  brought  into  Court,  and  for  that  he 
had  been  sent  with  a  porter  by  your  express  orders." 

"And  you  gave  it  to  him  !" 


IMPUDENT  AND  ADROIT  THIEVES. 


291 


"  Of  course  I  did — who  could  have  doubted  him,  or  resisted  the  orders 
of  a  Judge  /" 

"Watch — and  turkey — both  gone — pray,  what  the  devil,  madam,  are 
we  to  do  for  a  dinner  V 

But  the  lady  had  taken  care  of  her  guests,  notwithstanding  her  simpli- 
city, and  the  party  enjoyed  both  the  joke  and  their  viands. 


19* 


LETTER    XXVIII. 


MEXICAN    CHARACTER. 


I  have  adverted  already  in  previous  letters  to  the  private  character  and 
domestic  customs  of  the  Mexicans,  and  confess,  that  I  came  to  the  coun- 
try with  opinions  anything  but  favorable  to  the  morals,  tastes,  or  habits 
of  the  people.  It  was  alleged,  that  they  entertained  a  positive  antipathy 
to  foreigners,  and  that  the  exclusive  system  of  Spain,  under  which  they 
were  educated,  had  excited  in  them  a  distaste  for  innovation  ;  an  insouciant 
contentment  with  the  "statu  quo;"  and,  in  fact,  had  created  in  our  New 
World  a  sort  of  China  in  miniature. 

I  think  it  exceedingly  reasonable,  that  the  Mexicans  should  be  shy  of 
foreigners.  They  have  been  educated  in  the  strict  habits  of  the  Catholic 
creed  ;  they  know  no  language  but  their  own  ;  the  customs  of  their  coun- 
try are  different  from  others ;  the  strangers  who  visit  them  are  engaged 
in  the  eager  contests  of  commercial  strife  ;  and,  besides  being  of  differ- 
ent religion  and  language,  they  are  chiefly  from  those  northern  nations, 
whose  tastes  and  feelings  have  nothing  kindred  with  the  impul- 
sive dispositions  of  the  ardent  south.  In  addition  to  the  selfish  spirit  of 
gain  that  pervades  the  intercourse  of  these  visitors,  and  gives  them  no 
character  of  permanency  or  sympathy  with  the  country,  they  have  been 
accustomed  to  look  down  on  the  Mexicans  with  contempt  for  their  obso- 
lete habits,  without  reflecting,  that  they  were  not  justly  censurable  for 
traditional  usages  which  they  had  no  opportunity  of  improving  by  com- 
parison with  the  progress  of  civilization  among  other  nations. 

Yet,  treating  these  people  with  the  frankness  of  a  person  accustomed 
to  find  himself  at  home  wherever  he  goes,  avoiding  the  egotism  of  na- 
tional prejudices,  and  meeting  them  in  a  spirit  of  benevolence  ;  I  have 
found  them  kind,  gentle,  hospitable,  intelligent,  benevolent,  and  brave. 
Among  their  better  classes,  no  people  see  more  clearly  than  they  do  the 
vices  of  an  ill-regulated  society  and  the  misery  of  their  political  condi- 
tion ;  but,  when  rebuked  in  the  presumptuous  and  austere  spirit  of  arro- 
gant strangers,  they  repel  the  rudeness  by  distance  and  reserve.  The 
consequence  is,  that  these  disturbers  of  social  decency  are  seldom  the 
chosen  friends  or  inmates  of  their  dwellings.     The  Mexicans  are  a  proud 


MEXICAN    CHARACTER.  293 

and  sensitive  people  ;  yet,  none  are  more  easily  subdued  by  kindness — 
none  more  easily  won  by  a  ready  disposition  to  mingle  in  their  ranks,  and 
treat  them  with  a  due  respect  for  their  habitudes  and  their  prejudices. 

There  may  be  other  reasons,  too,  why  Mexicans  have  been  jealously 
shy  of  strangers.  It  seems  impossible  for  them  to  get  rid  of  the  idea, 
that  European  powers  are  seeking  to  obtain  their  wealth  and  territory, 
and  to  reestablish  the  systems  from  which  they  freed  themselves  by  so 
many  years  of  revolutionary  war ;  nor  can  they  (since  the  Texan  war,) 
divest  themselves  of  the  erroneous  notion,  that  the  United  States  has  ever 
a  longing  eye  on  their  Capital  and  country. 

There  are  but  few  entertainments  given  in  Mexico,  in  comparison  with 
those  of  other  cities  abroad,  where  a  lavish  expenditure  in  viands,  lights, 
and  amusements  for  the  few  hours  of  a  single  evening,  are  mistaken  for 
the  elegancies  and  refinements  of  genuine  hospitality ; — instead,  however, 
of  these  ostentatious  displays,  there  are  frequent  reunions  at  turtulias, 
where  an  hour  or  two  are  most  agreeably  spent  in  friendly  intercourse, 
and  the  unrestrained  flow  of  pleasant  and  instructive  conversation. 

I  have  already  alluded  to  the  extreme  of  fashionable  life,  and  its  dispo- 
sition for  the  theatre  ;  and  I  do  not  intend  to  treat  again  of  the  propensity 
of  the  ultras  to  living  thus  constantly  in  the  public  eye,  without  devoting 
a  portion  of  each  day  to  that  domestic  intercourse  and  reunion  which 
make  the  comfort  and  beauty  of  an  English  or  American  fireside.  I 
speak,  however,  of  that  juste  milieu  of  society,  wherein  resides  the  virtue 
and  intellect  of  a  country ;  and  I  had  an  excellent  opportunity  of  judging 
of  the  private  life  of  this  class  during  my  stay  in  the  Capital. 

It  was  my  good  fortune  to  reside  for  more  than  half  a  year  in  a  native 
family,  once  rich  and  titled,  but  broken  in  fortunes  by  the  political  and 
commercial  vicissitudes  of  the  Republic,  and  it  was  there  that  I  con- 
stantly witnessed  the  most  beautiful  evidences  of  a  filial  devotion  and 
parental  love,  amounting  almost  to  passionate  attachment.  The  lady  at 
the  head  of  the  establishment,  (as  I  remarked  in  a  preceding  letter,)  was 
a  person  who  had  been  distinguished  for  her  talents  and  accomplishments 
in  the  days  when  Mexico  was  adorned  with  the  splendor  of  a  Spanish 
court.  She  would  have  been  considered  highly  cultivated  in  any  coun- 
try ;  her  manners  were  excellent ;  her  bearing  graceful  and  courteous  j 
and  a  wide  circulation  in  her  youth  among  distinguished  men,  (both  before 
and  during  the  Revolution,)  and  a  ready  talent  for  imparting  her  recol- 
lections, made  her  conversation  delightful  and  instructive.  Besides  this, 
she  possessed  a  genius  for  miniature  painting  and  sketching  in  crayons, 
rarely  attained  by  a  female,  and  worthy  of  a  distinguished  artist.  Qual- 
ities, like  these,  brought  around  her  constantly  a  large  and  intelligent  cir- 
cle of  both  sexes.  The  change  of  fortune  had  by  no  means  diminished 
her  estimation  in  society,  and  the  numbers  of  fast  friends  who  adhered  to 


294  MEXICO. 

her  in  her  comparative  indigence,  proved  their  admiration  of  talent,  and 
the  constancy  of  attachment,  by  the  repetition  of  the  most  delicate  and 
disinterested  assiduities. 

It  was  in  this  Mexican  home,  and  not  from  the  unsympathizing  dis- 
tance of  the  hotel  and  ball-room,  (the  scene  of  most  travellers'  observa- 
tion,) that  I  obtained  my  insight  into  the  structure  of  Mexican  society  and 
character.  Had  I  kept  myself  aloof  in  my  own  house  or  my  own  inn, 
as  is  the  habit  of  foreigners,  I  should  have  judged  from  the  theatre,  the 
passeo,  the  bull-ring,  the  cock-pit,  and  the  gaming-table  ;  that  the  women 
were  but  so  many  painted  dolls,  without  more  education  or  soul  than  was 
required  to  languish  over  a  love-sick  play,  or  to  ogle,  with  idle  gaze, 
a  favored  cavalier.  I  might  have  supposed,  too,  that  the  men  were 
supremely  blessed  by  this  dalliance  with  the  sex,  and  considered  them- 
selves in  perfect  elysium  when  they  could  divide  their  attention  be- 
tween their  sirens,  their  horses,  and  the  card-table  ; — but  in  the  privacy 
of  this  dwelling,  I  learned  to  estimate  the  love  and  regard  between  pa- 
rents and  children  ;  the  beautiful  benevolence  of  ancient  friendship ;  the 
universal  respect  for  genius ;  and,  besides,  had  frequent  occasion  to  no- 
tice the  expanding  spirit,  ardent  patriotism,  desire  of  cultivation,  and  quick 
talent,  which  embellish  the  Mexican  character. 

It  must  not  be  said  that  I  am  estimating  a  country  by  one  example  ; — I 
am  as  far  from  so  partial  a  judgment,  as  the  opponents  of  Mexico  are 
from  a  just  one  on  their  side  of  the  question.  It  is  true,  that  this  family 
afforded  me  an  extensive  field  of  observation,  but  it  chiefly  served  to  stim- 
ulate my  attention  and  inquiries  elsewhere  ;  and  I  can  frankly  declare, 
that  wherever  I  observed,  I  invariably  found  the  same  qualities  of  head 
and  heart.  It  is  this  heart  that  is  in  fact  the  great  characteristic  of  Mex- 
icans, and  especially  of  their  females.  There  is  a  noble  naturalness,  an 
antique  generosity  about  them,  which  is  the  parent  of  a  multitude  of  vir- 
tues, and  it  is  by  an  abandonment  of  themselves  to  impulses,  that  so  much 
irregularity  and  indiscretion  have  been  frequently  manifested,  both  in 
politics  and  society. 

I  have  said  that  the  Mexicans  are  a  people  of  quick  talent,  and  my  re- 
mark is  borne  out  by  the  observation  of  all  foreigners.  They  are  quick 
to  apprehend,  quick  of  study,  and  quick  in  mastering  a  subject ;  but  this 
very  facility,  joined  with  their  impulsiveness,  is  often  fatal  to  their  en- 
during application  and  progress. 


I  came  among  these  people  an  entire  stranger,  without  especial  claims 
on  their  attention,  and  studious  to  avoid  that  bill  of  exchange  hospitality, 
which  is  the  result  of  introductory  letters  from  former,  and,  perhaps,  for- 
gotten acquaintances.  Yet  mingling  freely  among  all  classes,  and  com- 
paring them  now — when  gratitude  for  acts  of  kindness  has  been  long 
yielded  and  the  annoyance  of  petty  impertinences  forgotten — I  have  none 
but  kindly  recollections  of  the  people,  and  none  but  favorable  impressions 


MEXICAN    CHARACTER.  295 

of  the  mass  of  a  society,  in  which  I  had  been  taught  to  believe  that  I 
should  be  held  in  utter  antipathy  as  a  heretical  stranger. 

There  are,  of  course,  in  Mexico  as  in  all  other  countries,  specimens  of 
egotism,  selfishness,  haughtiness,  ill-breeding,  and  loose  morals,  both 
among  the  men  and  the  women ;  but,  although  we  find  these  floating-like 
bubbles  on  the  top  of  society,  they  must  not  therefore  be  considered  the 
characteristics  of  the  country.  You  must  separate  from  the  multitude  the 
few  who  sometimes  lead  and  control  the  masses  that  do  not  wish  to  come 
in  contact  or  conflict  with  them.  A  nation  in  which  "  revolutions  and  coun- 
ter-revolutions are  events  of  almost  daily  occurrence,  is  naturally  prolific 
in  desperate  and  crafty  political  adventurers,"  and  dissimulation  and  strat- 
agem may,  in  time,  form  the  chief  element  of  the  character  of  such  a 
people  ; — yet  such,  it  is  hoped,  is  not  to  be  the  corrupting  fate  of  Mexico. 

The  idea  that  large  social  entertainments  require  great  magnificence 
and  lavish  expense,  deprives  the  Mexicans,  in  their  towns,  of  many  of 
those  agreeable  gatherings  which  fill  up  so  pleasantly  our  winter  nights 
and  autumn  evenings ;  but  it  is  on  their  haciendas  or  plantations,  that 
their  hospitality  is  most  distinguished.  As  you  had  occasion  to  remark 
in  the  account  of  my  journey  to  the  tierra  caliente,  nothing  is  withheld 
from  you  ; — their  establishments  are  placed  at  your  entire  control,  and 
the  welcome  is  as  sincere  as  it  is  hearty  and  cheerful. 

That  they  are  brave,  none  will  doubt,  who  read  the  history  of  their  War 
of  Independence,  although  the  bad  discipline  (especially  of  their  officers,) 
has  prevented  the  very  eminent  exhibition  of  this  quality  in  their  foreign 
battles.  In  fact,  regard  them  in  any  way,  and  they  will  be  found  to  pos- 
sess the  elements  of  a  fine  people  who  want  but  peace  and  the  stimu- 
lus of  foreign  emulation,  to  bring  them  forward  among  the  nations  of  the 
earth  with  great  distinction. 

Their  geographical  position,  however,  is  very  unfavorable  for  this  emu- 
lative stimulus.  They  are  placed  among  the  mountains,  on  an  isthmus  con- 
necting two  large  Continents,  while  their  territory  is  washed  by  two  seas. 
They  are  cut  off  by  a  large  belt  of  savage  country  from  us  at  the  north, 
and  the  communication  with  Europe  is  both  distant  and  uncertain.  They 
have  a  small  population,  spread  over  an  immense  territory,  and  want, 
therefore,  both  the  constant  comparison  of  the  intellect  of  other  nations, 
and  social  compacting  or  aggregation  among  themselves.  I  can  (from 
personal  experience,)  state  how  disagreeable  is  this  want  of  intercourse 
with  the  rest  of  the  world.  There  is  intelligence  from  the  United  States, 
perhaps,  once  a  month,  and  about  as  often  from  Europe.  The  informa- 
tion brought  by  these  arrivals,  passes  chiefly  into  the  hands  of  the  mer- 
chants,— and,  after  a  while,  is  gradually  translated  in  fragments  for 
some  of  the  meagre  newspapers,  which  treat  you,  months  afterward,  to 
a  refacciamento  of  the  stories  or  improvements  that  you  had  already  for- 
gotten.    In  this  respect,  our  community  of  language  with  Great  Britain  is 


296  MEXICO. 

of  vast  importance  to  us.  England  acts  the  part  of  an  editor  for  the  United 
States.  She  collects  the  news,  the  literature,  the  progressive  inven- 
tions, and  the  genius  of  the  old  world,  with  unparalleled  activity ; — 
and  we  are  always,  at  farthest,  but  twelve  days  behind  her  in  diffusing 
these  results  among  the  seventeen  millions  of  our  own  people.  But  it 
may  be  feared,  that  it  will  be  long  before  Mexico  imitates  our  example. 
Spain  is  not  an  England,  in  intellectual  energy  or  advancement ;  and  the 
day  has  not  yet  arrived  in  Mexico  when  a  work  in  two  volumes  can  be 
printed,  bound,  and  distributed  to  her  chief  cities  within  twenty-four  hours 
after  its  reception  from  Europe. 

I  am  afraid  the  tendency  of  our  sister  Republic  is  too  much  toward  the 
opposite  extreme.  She  has  not  disenthralled  herself  from  the  Spanish  big- 
otry which  inculcated  the  idea  that  a  nation  must  do  all  for  herself,  without 
a  commercial  marine  of  her  own  to  cany  on  a  well-regulated  commerce. 
This  seems  to  me  to  be  a  churlish  policy,  and  is  as  likely  to  make  boors 
of  the  people  who  practice  it,  as  seclusion  is  calculated  to  make  ascetics 
of  those  who  refuse  to  mingle  with  the  world,  and  improve  their  spirits  by 
a  free  interchange  of  opinions  and  feelings.  It  is  well  to  live  where  you 
feel  the  beatings  of  the  great  pulse  of  society ;  and  it  is  time  that  man 
should  remember  he  is  not  a  mere  machine,  whose  account  with  time  is  a 
balance-sheet  between  such  productive  manual  powers  as  God  has  given 
him,  and  certain  fearful  columns  of  dollars  and  cents. 

In  the  summary  I  have  endeavored  to  present  you,  of  the  Mexican 
character,  I  must  not  be  charged  with  inconsistency  by  those  who  think  I 
am  contradicting  what  I  have  previously  advanced,  either  about  supersti- 
tious customs,  or  the  vices  that  consign  so  many  to  the  prison,  and  make 
others  so  reckless  of  life  and  fortune.  These  are  evils  begotten  by  the 
times  and  want  of  resources.  At  present,  I  treat  neither  of  political 
nor  social  gamblers ;  neither  of  female  frailties,  nor  that  crafty  duplicity 
which  leads  to  high  places  in  the  state ;  neither  of  genteel  vagrancy, 
nor  the  outcast  leperos  and  ignorant  Indians  who  form  so  large  a  por- 
tion of  the  population  of  the  country.  All  these  are  numerous  enough 
and  bad  enough.  But  it  has  been  my  task — amid  the  desolation  and  ruin 
of  the  country — amid  the  dust  and  ashes  to  which  a  great  nation  has  been 
reduced  by  civil  war — to  seek  for  some  living  embers,  and  to  discover 
sufficient  elements  of  a  sound  and  healthful  society,  from  which  the  re- 
generation of  the  country  may  be  expected.  With  domestic  virtue, 
genius,  and  patriotism,  no  people  need  despair ;  and  it  must  be  the  prayer 
of  every  republican  that  enough  of  these  still  remain  in  Mexico  to  recon- 
struct their  government  and  their  society. 

I  will  not  venture,  however,  upon  any  conjectures  in  regard  to  these 
matters,  until  I  speak  of  the  political  prospects  of  the  country. 


LETTERS 


ON      THE 


TERRITORY,  POPULATION,  COMMERCE,   MANUFACTURES, 


ARMY,  NAVY,  REVENUES,  CHURCH,  MINES, 


COINAGE,  EDUCATION,  POLITICAL 


HISTORY,  &c.  &c.  &c. 


OF 


MEXICO. 


LETTER    XXIX. 

TERRITORY.       POPULATION  AND   DEPARTMENTS.       RATIO  OF  CASTES  AND   EDU- 
CATION.      SCHOOLS    AND    COLLEGES.       PERIODICALS. 

According  to  the  best  authorities,  the  territory  of  the  Mexican  Republic 
contains  an  area  of  1,650,000  square  miles,  and  the  United  States  of 
America,  2,300,000.  If  we  allow,  as  is  calculated,  that  the  square  mile 
will  maintain,  under  ordinary  careful  cultivation,  a  population  of  200  per- 
sons, we  shall  have  the  sum  of  330,000,000  for  the  total  ultimate  capa- 
bility of  the  Mexican  soil,  and  460,000,000  for  the  United  States, — or, 
130,000,000  less  in  Mexico  than  in  our  Union. 

It  may  be  well  for  us  to  continue  this  comparative  statement  somewhat 
further.     In  the  year — 

1753  our  Population  was  estimated  at     -        -        -         -  1,051,000 

1790  "  ".-...  3,929,827 

1800  "  " 5,305,925 

1810  "  " 7,239,814 

1820  "  " 9,638,131 

1830  "  " 12,854,880 

1840  "  " 17,069,453 

I  regret  that  there  are  not  equally  correct  data  for  the  statistics  of  popu- 
lation in  Mexico.  The  census  has  been  carelessly  made  at  several  peri- 
ods, and  I  will  endeavor  to  present  you  with  what  are  deemed  the  most 
accurate  estimates. 

In  1793,  according  to  the  report  made  to  the  King  of  Spain  by  the  Conde 
de  Revellagigedo,  the  population  of  New  Spain,  exclusive  of  the  Intend- 
encies  of  Vera  Cruz  and  Guadalaxara,  was  as  follows : 

Indians,                             * 2,319,741 

Europeans,          ........  7,904 

White  Creoles 677,458 

Different  castes,           .        . 1,478,426 

4,483,529 
To  which  add  the  population  of  Vera  Cruz  and  Guadalaxara, 

according  to  the  estimate  of  1803,        .        -        - '       .  786,500 

Total  population  in  1793,  ....  5,270,029 


300  MEXICO. 

The  Baron  Humboldt  estimates  it  to  have  been  in  the  year  1803, 
5,837,100 ;  and  Mr.  Poinsett,  in  1824,  (from  the  best  data  of  the  period,) 
6,500,000. 

In  1830,  Mr.  Burkhardt,  an  accurate  German  traveller,  rates  the  sev- 
eral classes  of  Mexicans  thus  : 

Indians, 4,500,000 

Whites,                •    1,000,000 

Negroes, 6,000 

Mestizos,  and  other  castes, 2,490,000 

Total,  7,996,000 

Another  estimate  in  1839,  reduces  the  sum  to  7,065,000,  and  gives 
eight  inhabitants  to  the  square  mile  ;  but  the  most  complete,  and,  probably, 
the  most  accurate  of  the  recent  calculations,  is  the  one  which  was  made 
by  the  Government  itself,  (without  special  enumeration,)  and  served  as 
a  basis  for  the  call  of  a  Congress  to  form  a  new  Constitution,  under  the 
plan  of  Tacubaya  in  1842. 

Departments.  Population. 

Mexico, 1,389,520 

Jalisco, 679,311 

Puebla, 661,902 

Yucatan, 580,948 

Guanajuato,    ........         .  512,606 

Oajaca 500,278 

Michoacan, 497,906 

San  Luis  Potosi,          ......         .  321,840 

Zacatecas, 273,575 

.      Vera  Cruz, 254,380 

Durango, 162,618 

Chihuahua, -  147,600 

Sinaloa, 147,000 

Chiapas, 141,206 

Souora,           .                  124,000 

Queretazo, 120,560 

NuevoL6on,          - 101,108 

Tamaulipas, 100,068 

Coahuila, 75,340 

Aguas  Calientes, 69,698 

Tabasco, 63,580 

Nuevo  Mexico,        ....         ...  57,026 

Californias, 33,439 

Total  in  1842,        ....  7,015,509 

Since  the  year  1830,  the  population  of  the  Republic  has  been  dread- 
fully ravaged  by  smallpox — measles  and  cholera.  In  the  Capital  alone, 
it  is  estimated  that  about  5000  died  of  the  first  named  of  these  diseases, 
2000  of  the  second,  and  from  15,000  to  20,000,  of  the  third.  The  mor- 
tality must  have  been  in  a  corresponding  ratio  throughout  the  territory. 


POPULATION    AND    EDUCATION.  301 

I  am,  however,  by  no  means  satisfied  that  the  estimates  of  both  Poinsett 
and  Burkhardt  are  not  too  high ;  yet,  assuming  the  statements  of  1842 
and  of  1793  to  be  nearly  accurate,  we  find  in  49  years  an  increase  of 
only  1,774,111  in  the  entire  population.  Again,  if  we  assume  the  popu- 
lation to  have  been  6,000,000  in  1824,  (the  year,  in  fact,  of  the  establish- 
ment of  the  Republic,)  we  find  that  in  the  course  of  18  years  of  liberty 
and  independence,  the  increase  has  not  been  greater  than  1,044,140. 

In  the  United  States  of  America,  with  only  650,000  more  of  square 
miles  of  territory  now,  and  not  so  large  a  space  at  the  achievement  of  our 
independence,  the  increase  of  our  population  during  the  first  twenty  years 
of  freedom,  cannot  have  been  less  than  two  millions  and  a  half,  while,  in 
the  course  of  the  last  thirty  years,  it  has  averaged  an  increase  of  rather 
more  than  33  per  cent,  every  ten. 

The  several  castes  and  classes  of  Mexicans  may  be  rated  in  the  follow- 
ing manner  : 

Indians, 4,000,000 

Whites, 1,000,000 

Negroes, 6,000 

All  other  castes,  such  as  Zambos,  Mestizos,  Mulattoes,  &c,  2,009,509 


7,015,509 


It  appears,  therefore,  that  the  Indian  and  Negroes  amount  to  4,006,000, 
and  the  whites,  and  all  other  castes,  to  3,009,509.  A  very  respectable 
and  aged  resident  of  Mexico,  who  is  remarkable  for  the  extent  and  accu- 
racy of  his  observations,  estimates  that  of  the  former  (or  Negroes  and  In- 
dians,) but  two  per  cent,  can  read  and  write,  while  of  the  latter,  at  a  lib- 
eral estimate,  but  about  20  per  cent. 

If  we  take  this  computation  to  be  correct,  as  I  believe  from  my  own 
observation  it  is, — and  using  the  estimate  of  the  decree  of  1842  for  the 
basis  of  the  population,  we  shall  have : 

Of  Indians  and  Negroes  who  can  read, 80,120 

Of  Whites  and  all  others, 607,628 


Total  able  to  read  and  write  out  of  a  population  of  7,000,000,  687,748 

This  would  appear  to  be  a  startling  fact  in  a  Republic  the  basis  of  whose 
safety  is  the  capacity  of  the  people  for  an  intellectual  self-government. 
Let  us,  however,  carry  this  calculation  a  little  further.  If  we  suppose  that 
out  of  the  1,000,000  of  Whites,  500,000,  or  the  half  only,  are  males, 
and  of  that  half  million,  but  20  per  cent.,  or  but  100,000  can  read  and 
write  ;  we  will  no  longer  be  surprised  that  a  population  of  more  than  seven 
millions  has  been  hitherto  controlled  by  a  handful  of  men,  or  that,  with 
the  small  means  of  improvement  afforded  to  the  few  who  can  read,  the 


302  MEXICO. 

selfish  natures  of  the  superior  classes,  who  wield  the  physical  and  intel- 
lectual forces  of  the  nation,  have  forced  the  masses  to  become  little  more 
than  the  slaves  of  those  whose  wit  gives  them  the  talent  of  control. 

In  addition  to  this,  you  will  observe  how  little  has  been  done  hitherto  for 
the  cause  of  learning  by  the  Government,  when  you  examine  a  table  of 
the  expenses  of  the  nation,  by  which  it  will  be  seen,  that  in  the  year 
1840,  while  8180,000  were  spent  for  hospitals,  fortresses,  and  prisons, 
and  $8,000,000  for  the  army,  (without  a  foreign  war  !)  only  $110,000  were 
given  to  all  the  institutions  of  learning  in  Mexico.* 

I  learn,  however,  with  pleasure,  that  under  the  new  scheme  of  national 
regeneration  which  has  recently  been  put  in  action,  the  subject  of  Education 
has  engaged  the  especial  attention  of  the  existing  powers,  and  that  they 
design  to  foster  it  by  every  means  in  their  power. 

In  every  one  of  the  parishes  into  which  the  city  is  divided,  there  is  estab- 
lished a  school  for  boys,  and  another  for  girls,  supported  by  the  Ayunta- 
miento,  or  Town  Council.  In  these  establishments  the  pupils  are  taught, 
without  charge,  to  read,  write,  and  calculate,  and  are  besides  instructed 
in  religious  and  political  catechisms.  In  the  schools  for  girls,  in  addition 
to  these  branches,  they  learn  sewing  and  other  occupations  suitable 
for  their  sex.     Books  and  stationery  are  furnished  gratis. 

There  is  another  establishment  called  the  Normal  School,  supported  by 
the  Government,  and  devoted  to  the  instruction  of  the  soldiers  of  the  army 
in  the  rudiments  of  learning.  Advancement  and  improvement  in  this 
school  are  suitably  rewarded  by  ranks  in  the  army.  Besides  this,  there 
is,  also,  a  Lancasterian  Company,  which,  commencing  its  labors  in 
the  Capital,  is  spreading  its  branches  all  over  the  country.  It  is  devoted 
to  primary  instruction,  and  is  protected  by  all  the  citizens  of  the  Republic 
who  are  remarkable  either  for  their  wealth,  education,  or  social  posi- 
tion. The  contribution  is  a  dollar  monthly.  I  am  glad  to  learn  that, 
since  I  left  Mexico,  the  usefulness  of  this  Company  has  been  so  apparent 
to  the  people,  that  schools  upon  its  plan  have  not  only  been  established  in 
the  principal  cities  and  towns,  but  that  they  are  now  being  founded  in 
almost  every  village  of  importance,  and  even  upon  extensive  haciendas  or 
plantations,  where  the  laboring  population  is  numerous  and  ignorant. 

In  the  city  of  Mexico,  this  Company  has  formed  a  large  number  of 
schools  for  children  of  both  sexes,  upon  the  same  footing  as  those  estab- 
lished by  the  Ayuntamiento ;  that  is  to  say,  the  pupils  are  taught  without 

*  The  United  States  Census  for  1840,  gives  the  following  results- 
Number  of  Universities  and  Colleges, 173 

"       of  Students  in  do 16,233 

Academies  and  Grammar  Schools 3,242 

Students  in  do 164,159 

1'rimary  Common  Schools 47.209 

Scholars  in  do 1,845.244 

gchola rs  at  public  charge 468,264 

Total  number  of  whites  in  the  United  States 14,189,108 

Total  number  of  whites  in  the  United  States  over  the  age  of  20  who  cannot  read  and  write,  549,693 


SCHOOLS    AND    SEMINARIES.  303 

charge,  and  are  furnished  with  the  requisite  stationery  and  books.  There 
is  a  Night  School  for  adults,  very  fully  attended  by  citizens,  whose  oc- 
cupation prevents  them  from  devoting  themselves  to  study  during  the  day. 
In  the  women's  and  men's  Prisons,  and  in  the  House  of  Correction  for  juve- 
nile delinquents,  I  also  learn  that  schools  have  been  formed ;  and  it  is  by 
no  means  a  cheerless  feature  in  this  picture  of  dawning  improvement, 
that  the  ladies  of  Mexico,  most  distinguished  by  talent,  wealth,  and  culti- 
vation, have  gladly  availed  themselves  of  the  opportunity  to  devote  a 
portion  of  their  time  for  the  purpose  of  instructing  their  unfortunate  sisters 
in  the  prisons. 

Besides  these  establishments,  (which  you  will  observe,  are  all  of  a  free 
and  public  character,)  it  is  difficult  to  give  any  idea  of  the  number  of  pri- 
vate schools  for  both  sexes  in  the  Capital  and  Departments.  Many  of  them 
are  conducted  by  foreigners  as  well  as  Mexicans,  and  although  they  gen- 
erally instruct  in  French,  English,  grammar,  reading,  writing,  arithmetic, 
geography,  the  rudiments  of  history,  book-keeping,  drawing,  and  music,  I 
have  reason  to  believe  that  none  of  them  are  remarkable  for  the  regu- 
larity or  perfection  of  their  system. 

In  the  city  of  Mexico,  there  are  the  collegiate  establishments  of  El 
Seminario  Conciliar,  San  Ildefonso,  San  Gregorio,  and  San  Juan  Lateran. 
The  first  of  these  is  under  the  immediate  supervision  of  the  Archbishop, 
and  supported  by  a  portion  of  the  ecclesiastical  revenues.  The  other 
three  are  under  the  care  of  the  Government.  In  almost  all  the  Depart- 
ments of  the  Republic,  there  are  collegiate  Institutes,  and  in  some,  even 
two  or  three. 

The  course  of  instruction  in  these  establishments  is  alleged  to  be  thor- 
ough and  modern.  The  students  who  live  within  the  walls,  are  expected 
to  contribute  for  their  education,  while  others,  who  only  attend  the  lec- 
tures of  the  Professors,  are  exempt  from  all  costs  and  charges,  so  that 
about  two-thirds  of  the  pupils  of  every  College  receive  their  literary  edu- 
cation gratuitously. 

If  peace  be  now  permitted  to  reestablish  her  beneficial  sway  over  the 
country,  and  men's  minds  are  allowed,  in  the  general  calm,  to  direct 
themselves  to  their  own  and  their  children's  culture,  these  institutions 
cannot  fail  to  afford  the  most  rational  hope  to  the  well-wisher  of  Mex- 
ican prosperity  and  happiness.  The  regeneration  of  Mexico  lies  in  her 
schools.  Without  their  success  she  must  not  expect  to  drive  Ujperos 
from  the  streets,  or  usurping  Dictators  from  the  Palace  of  her  ancient 
Kings. 

As  an  interesting  Table  connected  with  the  diffusion  of  information,  I 
insert,  in  conclusion,  the  following  statement  of  the  number  of  newspa- 
pers and  periodicals  published  in  the  Republic : 


•M) i  M  k  xico. 

In  Chlhuthm 1 

Cothuilti      ...........i 

I'lniipns,  ..........1 

I'oliiiKi.  ---..-.....1 

Dartngo,  ...9 

(ui:\li:\|ii:lti> ......2 

Guadalutn .....3 

\     ■.;is<-;ilionlcs,       ..........1 

l.:i:..'S 1 

tftudoo .....6 

li.i a 

Montanj  >i<'  N.  l.<on,  .........a 

Ntttmoni ....       2 

OtXtM| 2 

TinMa 2 

Querottro, 1 

TtbMOO ....1 

SlMUTM,  ...........1 

Bvkioa 1 

Tiimpiro.        ...........2 

Cittdtd  Vu-torin, ...1 

.l:\l:ip:l. ......1 

^" cm :»  I'm;, -J 

VlU-:il;\ll 2 

lto»t>OM|         ..........       2 

S;»n  LttkPotoiJ 9 

Totil 44 

:  :ho  nki  efeoaptilrafe,  tii<?  fcOawtef  MMIsiaftfci  pruning  in  the  Cnitwi  Sarn, 
Nuniivi  of  ntnltni  Oflkm ijw 

liimWtes, +17 

IXmlv  I'mvn 138 

W.vUv      •        1.141 

Semi  .iiiil  Tri  \V«vkly US 

IVn.xlioal* SH7 

Mm  ontpWcit 11. SB 

Amount  of  capital  ruiplovo.1. $&,SCJ,S15 


LETTER    XXX 


commerce  a;vd  manufactures  of  Mexico. 


The  Commerce  of  Mexico  has  been  sensibly  diminishing  for  the  last  ten 
years.  This  is  attributable  to  the  continual  revolutionary  disturbances 
of  the  country,  the  decrease  of  the  wealth  of  the  people,  and  the  pecu- 
niary embarrassments  to  which  most  of  the  inhabitants  have  been  sub- 
jected, by  the  non-payment  of  Government  loans  and  unfortunate  invest- 
ments. 

In  1832  and  1833,  the  products  of  the  Custom  House  amounted  to  about 
twelve  millions  per  annum.  In  1839,  on  account  of  the  French  blockade, 
they  fell  to  near  three  millions  ;  in  1 840,  they  rose  again  to  seven  millions  ; 
and,  in  the  following  year,  fell  to  little  more  than  five,  which  sum  may 
be  divided  among  the  different  ports  as  follows,  to  wit : 

Vera  Cruz, $3,329,802 

Tampico, 883,Q39 

Matamoras, 312,403 

Marattan -  383,159 

Guyamas,    -.-----  55,814 

Monterrey, 96,853 

Acapulco, 17,182 

San  Bias, 208,845 


$5,287,097 


This  corresponds  to  about  twelve  millions  three  hundred  thousand  dol- 
lars of  importation  annually,  divided  (according  to  an  estimate,)  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner : 

From  England, $4,500,000 

"  France,         ......  3,000,000 

"  Hamburgh, 1,500,000 

"  China,           -.-.--  1,000,000 

"  United  States, 800,000 

"  Spain, 500,000 

"  Genoa,  and  other  ports,     ....  1,000,000 


20 


$12,300,000 


306  MEXICO. 

The  expense  to  the   Government,  for  the  collection  of  this  revenue, 
was  $348,290. 

The  Exports  from  the  Republic,  (chiefly  of  course  of  its  own  pro- 
ductions,)  may  be  rated  at : 

i     f  Specie,  through  Vera  Cruz, $4,000,000 

5^  j      "             "        Mazatlan  and  San  Bias,         ...  2,500,000 

p  1  Silver  and  Gold,  through  other  ports,         ....  5,000,000 

|     I  Silver,  through  Tampico, 7,000,000 

Cochineal,  Jalap,  Vanilla,  Sarsaparilla  and  Hides,      -         -  1,000,000 

Sundries, 500,000 


$20,000,000 

From  this  estimate,  you  perceive,  that  about  $18,500,000,  in  the  precious 
metals,  are  exported  annually  from  Mexico.  The  mines  produce  near 
twenty-two  millions  of  silver,  of  which,  it  is  calculated,  that  twelve  mill- 
ions are  coined  in  the  seven  mints  of  the  Republic,  per  annum. 

From  the  above  calculations,  it  will  be  observed,  that  there  is  a  differ- 
ence of  about  $8,000,000  between  the  imports  and  exports,  a  large  portion 
of  which  is  estimated  to  be  covered  by  smuggling. 

The  following  comparative  estimate  of  the  Exports  and  Imports  of  the 
United  States  and  of  Mexico,  for  the  years  1841  and  1842,  cannot  fail  to  be 
interesting  in  this  connection,  especially  when  you  take  into  consideration 
the  comparative  extent  of  territory  and  population : 

Exports  from  Mexico,  in  1842,       ......     $20,000,000 

Of  which,  in  gold  and  silver 18,500,000 

Balance  in  other  products  of  industry,    -----      $1,500,000 

Excess  of  Imports  over  the  industrial  Exports,  exclusive  of  the 

precious  metals, -        -     $10,500,000 

Imports  of  the  United  States  in  1841-2,          ....     $99,357,329 
Exports  from        "  "  " 104,117,969 

Difference,      $4,760,640 

Exports  of  Gold  and  Silver,  "         .....       $9,805,235 

Of  which  was  the  produce  of  U.  S.  Mines,  -     $2,746,486 

"  "     foreign  Gold,       ....  677,297 

»  "     foreign  Silver,       ....        6,381,452 

Total,    $9,805,235 
Whole  exports  from  the  United  States,      -        -        -        -        $104,117,969 
Deduct  exports  of  the  Precious  Metals,         ....  9,805,235 

$94,312,734 


COMMERCE 


307 


Or,  in  other  words,  the  United  States  exported  $94,312,734  worth,  repre- 
senting her  industry,  (exclusive  of  gold  and  silver,)  while  Mexico,  with  a 
territory  nearly  as  large,  exported  but  $1,500,000.  In  addition  to  this, 
it  must  be  recollected,  that  but  $2,746,846  of  the  precious  metals  were 
the  product  of  our  own  country,  while  at  least  $15,000,000  were  the 
product  of  the  Mexican  mines  ;  leaving  an  excess  of  nearly  three  millions 
above  the  total  annual  coinage  of  the  nation. 


Whole  Exports,  for  say  8,000,000  people, 
"  "  "     17,000,000  .    " 


$20,000,000 
104,117,969 


This  will  give  us  the  ratio  of  about  $6  12£  for  each  person  in  the  United 
States,  and  $2  50  for  each  person  in  Mexico. 

In  order  to  afford  some  idea  of  Mexican  commerce  more  in  detail, 
(so  far  as  the  Eastern  Coast  is  concerned,)  I  have  constructed  the 
following  Table,  the  accuracy  of  which  may  be  confidently  relied  on. 
In  regard  to  the  Western  Coast,  it  is  impossible  to  state  anything  with 
certainty.  The  chief  contraband  trade  of  the  Republic  has  been  carried 
on  there  with  the  most  unblushing  audacity,  until  very  recently  ;  and,  of 
course,  statistical  returns  will  tend  rather  to  deceive  than  enlighten. 

COMMERCE  OF  THE  PORT  OF  VERA  CRUZ. 


ONE  YEAR. 
From  1st  January  to  31st  December,  1841. 


Entries. 

Departures. 

American, 

39 

37 

English, 

45 

42 

French, 

31 

33 

Spanish, 

36 

35 

Hamburgh, 

5 

5 

Danish, 

5 

4 

Belgian, 

3 

3 

Bremen, 

4 

4 

Prussian, 

2 

2 

Sardinian, 

4 

5 

Colombian, 

5 

5 

Mexican, 

37 

43 

216 

218 

Passenger 

s  in  1841, 

Immigrants,     - 

■        - 

SIX 

MONTHS. 

From  1st  January,  1842,  to  1st  July. 

Entries. 

Departures. 

19 

19 

26 

21 

13 

17 

12 

15 

3 

4 

1 

1 

1 

0 

1 

1 

2 

0 

2 

2 

2 

3 

20 

26 

102 


Increase  of  population, 


1,109 
459 

614 


109 


20* 


308 


MEXICO, 


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MEXICO. 


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310 


MEXICO. 


TRADE  WITH  MATAMORAS  1841. 

The  whole  trade  of  1841  was  carried  on  in  vessels  from  the  United  States  : 
Vessels  32 Tonnage  2,345 

EXPORTS    TO   THE    UNITED    STATES. 

Specie $352,766-17, 

Hides 117,334 

Wool 15,943 

Horses  and  mules  ....        -  800 

486.834J& 


IMPORTS    FROM    THE    UNITED    STATES. 


Countries 

where 

manufactured. 

Silks. 

Woollens. 

Cottons. 

Linens. 

Ironware 
and  Ma- 
chinery. 

Paper. 

Jew- 
elry. 

Sundries. 

Total. 

Germany 

England 

Spain 

U.  States 

France 

Havana 

$1,040 
2,340 

$25,046 
4,148 

$2,051 
146,280 

25,640 

31,480 

$40,947 
23,768 

6,597 

$3,921 

15,120 
270 

$1,680 

$452 

$246 
3,140 
8,060 

66,140 
5,334 

13,215 

$43,244 

203,195 

8,060 

106,900 

52,301 

13,245 

Tot. Values. 

$3,380 

29,194 

205,451 

71,312 

19,311 

1,680 

452 

96,165 

426,945 

It  may  be  well  for  us  to  take  heed  of  the  gradual  decline  of  our  com- 
merce with  Mexico,  which  has  diminished  to  almost  utter  insignificance. 
I  am  not  merchant  enough  to  divine  what  are  the  commercial  causes  of 
this  state  of  things ;  but  I  can  readily  imagine,  that,  in  connection  with 
the  general  difficulties  of  the  country,  our  trade  has  been  seriously 
affected  by  the  part  which  our  citizens  have  taken,  or  are  alleged  to  have 
taken,  in  the  insurrectionary  movements  of  Texas.  The  rebellion  in  that 
province,  the  union  of  a  portion  of  North  Americans  with  its  armies,  and 
the  sympathy  of  many  others,  expressed  in  a  manner  which  I  believe  to 
be  both  unwise  and  illegal,  have  caused  our  people  to  be  unpopular 
throughout  the  Republic,  and  have  made  the  authorities  averse  to  exhibit- 
ing that  strict  justice  in  our  personal  and  commercial  rights  which  should 
characterize  the  intercourse  of  friendly  nations.  Our  citizens  have 
been  imprisoned  in  Mexico  on  frivolous  pretences.  Forced  loans  have 
been  wrested  from  our  merchants.  Tribunals  have  been  deaf  to  demands 
for  restitution,  and  a  mutual  distrust  has  arisen,  which  has  proved  fatal 
in  many  instances  to  trade  and  intercourse.  The  effects  of  this  will, 
however,  be  most  strikingly  exhibited  in  the  following  table,  compiled 
chiefly  from  the  reports  of  the  Secretary  of  our  National  Treasury. 


COMMERCE    OF    THE    TJNITED    STATES    AND    MEXICO. 

For  the  year  ending  30th  September,  1823,  the  imports  and  exports  to  Mexico  and 
South  America  generally,  were  as  follows  : 

Imports        -  $4,842,503 

Exports  3,229,343 


$1,613,160  balance  in  our  favcr. 


Of  these  imports 


$1,950,416  were  in  specie  and  bullion. 


STATISTICS     OF    TRADE 


311 


TRADE    "WITH    MEXICO    FOR    TWELVE    YEARS. 


Year  ending  30th  Sept. 


1829 
1830 
1832 
1833 
1834 
1835 
1836 
1837 
1838 
1839 
1840 
1841 


Imports  from  Mexico. 

$5,026,761 

-  5,235,241 
4,293,954 

-  5,452,818 
8,066,068 

-  9,490,446 
5,615,819 

-  5,654,002 
3,127,153 

-  3,500,707 
4,175,001 

-  3,284,957 


Exports  to  Mexico. 

$2,331,151 
■  4,837,458 
3,467,541 
5,408,091 
5,265,053 
9,029,221 
6,041,635 
3,880,323 
2,787,362 
2,164,097 
2,515,341 
2,036,620 


GOLD   AND    SILVER    IMPORTED    INTO    THE    UNITED    STATES    FROM    MEXICO. 


Bullion. 

Specie. 

S.America  and  Mexico  in  1823 

$121,970 

$1,828,446 

From  Mexico 

1836     - 

68,546 

4,468,872 

a              tt 

1837 

165,429      ■*§£ 

4,405,549 

CC                   (( 

1838     - 

-      230,183 

2,459,243 

cc             u 

1840 

100,976 

3,357,936 

a             (i 

1841     - 

51,184 

1,886,918 

By  this  you  will  observe,  that,  from  having  a  trade  worth  upward  of 
$9,000,000  in  1835,  we  have  been  reduced  to  a  comparatively  insignifi- 
cant commerce  of  $1,000,000,  at  the  extreme,  in  1843  !  If  peace  be 
restored  in  Mexico  and  mutual  confidence  reestablished,  I  can  see  no 
cause  why  our  interests  may  not  become  replaced  on  their  ancient  basis, 
and  a  natural  alliance  firmly  established  between  two  sister  Republics, 
who,  in  addition  to  a  community  of  political  tendencies,  are  the  closest 
neighbors. 

England  has  striven  for  a  two-fold  object  in  Mexico.  She  has  always 
looked  to  her  debt  from  that  country  as  the  great  means  of  affecting  her 
commerce  and  manufactures,  and  ultimately,  perhaps,  of  affording  her  a 
claim  for  its  satisfaction  in  territory.*  If  our  Government  was  always 
careful  to  have  herself  properly  represented  in  that  Republic  by  vigilant 
persons,  whose  eyes  were  constantly  open  to  the  encroachments  of  foreign 
Powers,  and  especially  to  the  grasping  tendencies  of  England ;  and  if,  at 
the  same  time,  it  took  occasion  upon  every  fitting  opportunity,  to  sustain 
the  rights  of  our  citizens  by  enforcing  the  reasonable  and  friendly  ap- 
peals of  its  Representative ;  I  doubt  not  that,  in  a  few  years,  Mexico 
would  awake  from  the  spell  of  her  foreign  delusions,  and  remember  the 
hand  that  was  first  stretched  forth  to  welcome  her  into  the  family  of  inde- 
pendent nations.  She  would  have  every  reason  to  do  so.  The  political 
feelings  of  the  mass  of  her  intelligent  men  are  decidedly  republican. 
Her  own  independence  would  be  assured  to  her.     The  constant  alliance 


*  Vide  appendix,  No.  1. 


312 


MEXICO. 


of  the  United  States  would  protect  her  in  the  event  of  a  hostile  foot  being 
set  upon  her  shores.  She  would  secure  the  integrity  of  this  Continent, 
and  free  her  people  from  the  dangers  that  menace  them  from  abroad, 
whenever  a  minister  is  obliged  to  dun  her  for  her  debts,  or  threaten  her  with 
the  "  last  argument "  known  to  diplomats  and  nations.* 

A  favorite  mode  of  raising  loans  in  Mexico,  for  the  benefit  of  the  Gov- 
ernment, has  been  that  of  granting  permits  to  merchants  (chiefly  English- 
men,) to  introduce  cotton  twist  into  the  Republic.  This  is  a  prohibited 
article ; — prohibited  for  the  purpose  of  cherishing  the  manufacturing  es- 
tablishments of  the  country.  That  these  have  progressed  to  a  very  con- 
siderable extent,  and  have  entirely  outstripped  the  production  of  the  cotton 
planters  of  Mexico,  will  be  seen  by  the  annexed  Table,  which  I  have 
obtained  from  the  most  authentic  sources. 

STATISTICS  OF  MEXICAN  MANUFACTURES. 


No.  of  Factories  in  each  Department. 

Spindles 
established. 

Spindles 
In  erection. 

Total. 

In  Mexico, 
"  Puebla,     - 
"  Vera  Cruz,    - 
"  Guadalaxara,     - 
"  Queretaro,    - 
"  Durango,  - 
"  Guanajuato, 
"  Sonora.     - 

12 
21 

7 
5 
2 
4 
1 
1 

30,156 

35,672 

17,860 

11,312 

7,620 

2,520 

1,200 

1,000 

12,240 
5,200 
6,500 

30,156 

47,912 

23,060 

17.812 

7,620 

2,520 

1,200 

1,000 

53  1  107,340  |    23,940  |  131.280 

*  I  believe  that  there  exists  only  a  temporary  ill  feeling  toward  the  United  States.  The  people  of  that  Republic 
have  been  excited  by  the  idea  so  industriously  circulated  by  some  of  her  leading  men,  (under  foreign  prompting  1 
think,)  that  our  Government  and  citizens  are  all  andunitcdly,  anxious  for  the  success  of  Texas,  in  order  to  add 
that  territory  to  our  own  possessions.  If  the  accomplished  diplomats  who  now  conduct  the  relations  of  the 
countries  prevail  in  dissipating  this  delusion,  they  will  confer  lasting  benefits  upon  both  Republics. 

I  did  not  design  alluding,  in  this  work,  to  the  Texans  or  to  the  Santa  Fe  expedition  ;  but  I  cannot  let  this  oc- 
casion pass  without  hearing  testimony  to  the  kind  hearts  and  generous  disposition  of  the  Mexicans,  in  regard  to 
the  prisoners  of  that  ill-starred  adventure.  It  is  true,  that  several  persons  connected  with  it  were  travellers  and 
merchants  only,  utterly  ignorant  of  the  purposes  of  the  rest;  but  I  believe  there  is  now  no  doubt  that  the  great 
body  of  the  troops  entertained  the  idea  of  revolutionizing  the  department  of  New  Mexico.  Yet  these  men  were 
neither  court-marshalled  nor  executed.  They  were  forced  to  undergo  a  long  and  fatiguing  march  to  the  Capi- 
tal, and  some  of  them  were,  in  Mexico,  Puebla  and  Peroto,  chained  and  treated  with  indignity  by  the  officers 
of  the  Government.  But  I  have  heard  them  all  speak  in  terms  of  the  must  heartfelt  gratitude  of  the  continual 
sympathy  expressed  for  them  by  tJie  citizens.  The  Mexicans  visited  them  ;  sent  them  food  and  raiment ;  inter- 
ceded for  them,  and  used  every  effort  to  mitigate  their  sufferings.  The  officers  were  allowed  nuiiiy  privileges  by 
their  keepers,  ami,  finally,  the  whole  of  them  were  released,  after  having  sworn  not  to  take  up  arms  against 
Mexico.  .Not  withstanding  this  oath,  several  of  them  had  scarcely  landed  in  Texas  before  they  were  again  in  hostile 
array  against  the  Government  that  freed  them,  and  although  BOme  were  mire  more  seized  upon  the  Mexican  terri- 
tory, I  learn  that  their  lives  have  been  spared,  and  that  they  will  probably  be  again  released. 

I  must  be  permitted,  in  this  note,  to  mention  the  brave  Colonel  Cooke,  (a  native  of  Virginia,  who  commanded 
a  division  of  the  expedition,)  as  one  of  those  rare  heroes,  whose  chivalry  reminds  ns  of  the  days  of  romance.  At 
the  battle  of  San  Jncinto,  it  is  said,  that  he  saved  the  life  of  Santa  Anna  by  interposing  himM  It'  between  tlie  infu- 
riated trooiis  and  the  captured  General,  when  he  was  brought  into  Houston's  camp.  I  have  been  told  that  Santa 
Anna  remembered  hit  name,  as  soon  as  he  learned  that  a  person  called  Cooke  was  in  the  Santa  Fe  expedition, 
ami  resolved  to  release  him  if  he  proved  to  be  his  preserver.  On  Cooke's  airiv.il.it  Mexico,  i  lie  President  sent  for 
and  questioned  him  closely  as  to  the  facts,  but  Cooke  steadily  denied  his  identity.  When  reproved  by  his  friends, 
he  exclaimed,  that  he  would  avail  himself  of  no  such  advantage  gained  merely  by  honorable  war,  and  that  he 
had  resolved  to  share  the  fate  of  his  companions,  he  it  what  it  might.  Together  they  had  been  captured,  together 
they  would  undergo  the  sufferings  of  imprisonment,  and  together  they  would  be  released,  or  die.  He  kept  his 
promise  till  the  last,  and  on  the  13th  of  June,  1842,  marched  at  the  head  of  his  little  band  to  the  review  at  which 
Santa  Anna,  in  person,  released  them. 


MANUFACTURES.  313 

It  must  be  remarked,  that  there  are  three  manufacturing  establishments 
in  the  Department  of  Durango,  the  number  of  spindles  in  which,  are  not 
included  in  the  preceding  Table,  because  the  Junta  de  Industria  had  not  re- 
ceived very  definite  information  respecting  them.  They  may,  however, 
■  be  calculated  at  about  4000,  which,  added  to  the  131,280,  will  give  a 
grand  total  of  135,000,  at  least.  The  number  of  looms,  also,  in  the  Re- 
public is  not  presented,  because  data  have  ,been  furnished  only  in  relation 
to  those  moved  by  machinery.  An  immense  number  of  hand-looms  are 
in  constant  occupation  throughout  the  Republic. 

I-  Lbs.  Dollars. 

The   Cotton  Factories  of  the   Republic   consume,    daily, 

with  the  107,340  spindles,  in  actual  operation,        -         -        39,755 
Which  produce  in  spun  thread,  at  the  rate  of  |  of  a  lb.  for 

each  spindle,    -         -         -  -         -         -         -         -     35,780 

Which,  converted  into  mantas  and  rebosos,  have  a  value  of  39,358 

II. 

The  same  factories,  after  the  23,940  spindles  in  erection 

are  in  operation,  will  consume  daily,  ...  48,622 

Each  spindle  will  produce  of  thread,     ....  43,760 

Which  converted  as  aforesaid,  will  amount  in  value  to      -  48,037 

III. 
The  consumption  of  cotton,  in  the  year,  of  300  working 

days,  with  131,280  spindles,  will  be    -  14,586,666 

The  produce  in  thread, 13,138,000 

The  produce  in  manufactured  value,  as  above,  ...  14,440,800 

IV. 
The  131,280  spindles,  working  day  and  night,  will  con- 

sume, 24,797,332 

Produce  in  thread, 22,317,600 

Produce  in  manufactured  value,  as  above,  ...  24,549,360 

V. 
The  131,280  spindles  will  occupy  (working  only  by  day,)  8,753  looms. 

"  "  «         (working  day  and  night,)  14,880     " 

No.  of  Operatives  employed  by  day,         ....  17,000 

"  "  "         day  and  night,  .         -         .  29,000 

VI. 

It  will  require  for  the  131,280  spindles  working  by  day,       -  145,666f  quin.  cotton. 

The  produce  of  the  country,  at  the  utmost,  is  not  more  than  50,000 

Leaving  a  deficit  of        .....         .  95,666§ 

*But  if  the  spindles  work  day  and  night,  they  will  require,  247,973^ 

Produce  of  the  country,  as  above,         .....  50,000 

Leaving  a  deficit  of 197,973£  quintals. 


*  At  the  town  of  Lowell,  alone,  they  make  nearly  a  million  and  a  quarter  yards  of  cotton  cloth  per  week, 
employ  about  9000  operatives  (6375  females)  and  use  433,000  lbs.  of  raw  cotton  per  week.  The  annual  amount 
of  raw  cotton  used  is  22,568,000  lbs. ;  enough  to  load  50  ships  of  350  tuns  each ;  and  of  cotton  manufactured! 
70.275,910  yards— 100  lbs.  of  cotton  will  produce  89  yards  of  cloth, 


314  MEXICO. 

The  value  of  the  Mexican  manufacturing  establishments  may  be  stated, 
in  round  numbers,  at  $10,000,000. 

Hitherto  the  cotton  crop  of  the  Republic  has  not  greatly  exceeded  50,000 
quintals ;  which,  calculated  at  a  mean  of  $35  the  quintal,  will  give  a  total 
valuation  of  the  produce  at  $1,750,000.  The  estimate  I  have  presented 
in  the  foregoing  tables  shows,  however,  that  the  spindles,  working  day  and 
night,  will  require  247,937£  quintals,  or,  in  other  words,  that  there  is  a 
deficit  of  197,973£,  which,  valued  at  the  same  rate,  will  amount  to 
$6,929,072. 

It  is  true,  that  many  persons  have  been  induced  by  this  condition  of  the 
market,  and  the  prohibition  of  importing  the  raw  material,  to  commence 
plantations  of  cotton ;  but  I  greatly  doubt  whether  the  habits  of  the  agri- 
cultural population  will  permit  their  prosperity.  They  dislike  to  adventure 
in  new  branches  of  industry.  If  their  ancestors  wrought  on  cotton  plan- 
tations, they  are  content  to  continue  in  the  same  employment ;  but  it  will 
be  difficult  to  train  the  new  laborer  to  the  newer  cultivation.  They  ad- 
here too  closely  to  traditional  occupations,  and  I  have  heard  of  some  most 
signal  failures,  which  have  forced  persons  to  abandon  their  establish- 
ments, after  a  considerable  outlay  of  money  in  land  and  implements. 

Under  these  circumstances,  we  may  well  ask  our  countrymen  whether 
Mexico  might  not  be  looked  to  as  a  market  for  a  portion  of  our  crops,  and 
if  the  Government  should  not  be  required  to  turn  its  attention  to  this  vast 
interest,  for  the  purpose  of  attempting  to  obtain  a  removal  of  the  inhibi- 
tions on  that  valuable  article  of  commerce.  If  England  were  a  cotton 
growing  country,  or  had  an  adjacent  colony  producing  it,  I  am  confident 
that  the  opportunity  would  be  promptly  and  advantageously  improved. 
Under  any  circumstances  it  is  worth  the  trial ;  and,  especially,  at  this 
moment,  when  Great  Britain  is  interfering  in  the  quarrel  between  Mexico 
and  Texas,  and  seeking  either  to  produce  a  peace  or  to  form  an  alliance 
with  the  revolted  province,  which  will  either  extinguish  slavery  and  cotton 
planting,  or  make  Mexico  the  buyer  of  her  offspring's  productions,  to  the 
detriment  of  our  Union. 

The  cotton  crop  of  Mexico  has  been  very  variable  in  value.  At  Tepic, 
on  the  west  coast,  it  has  been  as  low  as  $15  the  quintal  ;  at  Vera  Cruz, 
on  the  east  coast,  $22  and  $34  ;  while  at  Puebla  and  in  the  Capital,  it  has 
risen  to  $40,  and  even  $48. 

In  spite  of  all  the  efforts  of  English  capitalists  and  diplomacy,  the  Gov- 
ernment has  steadily  persevered  in  fostering  the  manufactures  of  the  Re- 
public, except  by  the  occasional  allowances  of  the  importation  of  twist. 
The  administration  of  Santa  Anna,  however,  has  been  energetic  I  am 
informed,  both  in  its  opposition  to  the  introduction  of  this  article,  and  in 
its  effects  to  suppress  the  smuggling  of  English  and  American  fabrics. 
The  manufacturers,  therefore,  regard  their  establishments  as  perfectly 
safe,  and  their  future  success  as  certain. 


MANUFACTURES.  315 

The  average  price  of  manias,  (cotton  cloth)  of  one  vara  width,  in  1842, 
was  about  twenty-five  cents  the  vara;  and  of  twist,  No.  12  to  22,  about 
seventy-five  cents  the  pound.  It  was  estimated,  that  if  cotton  fell  in  con- 
sequence of  importations  being  allowed,  or  a  larger  crop,  to  $25  the  quintal, 
these  articles  would  be  reduced  to  18f  cents  the  vara  for  the  first,  and  to 
50  cents  the  pound  for  the  second.  This  condition  of  the  market  would 
prevent  all  importations  from  abroad,  even  aided  by  smuggling. 

An  intelligent  merchant  of  the  city  of  Mexico,  who  has  resided  long  in 
the  country,  and  has  an  extensive  acquaintance  in  the  Republic,  informs 
me,  that  there  are  about  five  thousand  hand-looms  throughout  the  Depart- 
ments, which  will  work  up  all  the  spun  yarn  into  manias  and  rebosos  as 
fast  as  it  can  be  made.  Many  of  these  looms  are  entirely  employed  in 
the  manufacture  of  the  common  rebosos — described  in  some  of  my  pre- 
ceding letters — the  consumption  of  which  is  so  great  among  the  poorer 
classes.  The  value  of  these  looms  is  estimated  at  between  six  and  seven 
hundred  thousand  dollars.  The  number  of  persons  employed,  in  every 
way,  in  manufactures,  cannot  be  much  short  of  thirty  thousand. 

The  power  made  use  of  for.  the  movement  of  the  factories  is  water  ; 
which  is  abundant,  for  that  purpose,  all  over  the  country,  proceeding  from 
small  streams  falling  from  the  mountains  into  the  neighboring  plains  or 
barrancas.  Owing  to  the  scarcity  of  wood,  and  the  costliness  of  its 
transportation,  steam  cannot  be  advantageously  applied. 

There  are  several  manufactories  of  cotton  balls,  or  thread,  in  Mexico, 
but  they  are  not  of  very  great  importance. 

Paper  factories  are  working  with  considerable  success.  There  are 
two  near  the  Capital,  one  at  Puebla,  and  one  in  Guadalaxara.  Their 
productions  are  very  good,  but  by  no  means  adequate  to  the  consumption 
of  the  country.  The  quantity  of  this  article  used  for  cigarritos,  or  paper 
cigars,  is  inconceivable.  The  best  coarse  wrapping  or  envelope  paper,  I 
have  ever  seen,  is  made  in  Mexico  from  the  leaves  of  the  Agave  Ameri- 
cana, the  plant  which  yields  "  pulque."  It  has  almost  the  toughness  and 
tenacity  of  iron. 

Both  at  Puebla  and  Mexico  there  are  several  glass  factories,  making 
large  quantities  of  the  material  for  windows,  and  common  tumblers. 
Their  produce  is,  nevertheless,  insufficient  for  the  wants  of  the  country. 

Woollen  blankets,  and  some  very  coarse  woollen  cloths  or  baizes,  are 
also  manufactured  in  the  Republic.  The  blankets,  or  serapes,  I  have 
heretofore  described  when  speaking  of  the  equipment  of  a  Mexican  horse- 
man. They  are  often  of  beautiful  texture,  and  woven,  with  the  gayest 
colors  and  patterns,  into  a  garment  that  frequently  costs  a  fashionable 
cavalier  from  two  to  five  hundred  dollars.  As  this  is  as  indispensable  an 
article  for  the  comfort  of  a  lepero  as  of  a  gentleman,  and  as  necessary 
for  a  man  as  a  reboso  is  for  a  woman,  you  may  readily  imagine  how  great 
is  the  consumption. 


316 


MEXICO, 


Such  is  a  sketch  of  this  branch  of  industry,  to  which  the  Government 
and  people  seem  to  have  devoted  themselves  with  a  hearty  will.  I  have 
dwelt  at  considerable  length  upon  it,  as  evincing  an  energy  and  temper 
not  usually  attributed  to  Mexicans,  and  for  the  purpose  of  exhibiting  a 
phase  of  character  at  once  creditable  to  their  resolution,  and  manifesting 
a  degree  of  independence  and  thriftiness  worthy  of  imitation. 


LETTER    XXXI. 

THE    REVENUE    AND    RESOURCES    OF    MEXICO.       ARMY.       NAVY.       PRODUCE    OF 
MINES.       TOTAL  COINAGE.       THE  CHURCH,  ITS  WEALTH  AND  INFLUENCE. 

The  income  of  the  Mexican  Government  is  derived  from  revenues 
on  foreign  commerce,  imposts  on  internal  trade,  imposts  on  pulque,  ex- 
port duty  on  the  precious  metals,  lotteries,  post-office,  stamped  paper, 
taxes,  tobacco,  powder,  salt-works,  and  several  other  sources  of  trifling 
importance. 

In  1840,  these  revenues  are  stated  in  the  Report  of  the  Minister  of  the 
Treasury  as  follows : 


Nett  proceeds  after  deducting  expense  of  collection. 

Imposts  on  Foreign  Commerce, $7,115,849 

"         Interior  "  4,306,585 

"        On  property,  income,  &c.  .....       466,061 

Exchanges,  &c 307,427 

Creditos  Activ6s, 3,309 

Balances  of  accounts,         ........  355 

Enteros  de  productos  liquidos,        ......        452,146 

Extraordinary  subsidy,         ........  103 

Arbitrio  estraordinario,  -         ......  78,177 

Capitacion,  -  -  .......  483 

Donations,        -  -  .......         13,662 

$12,744,157 


In  1839,  the  revenues  amounted  to  $11,215,848.  The  income  from 
the  post-office  department,  (which  is  not  included  in  the  statement  for  1840,) 
was  $178,738,  in  1839.  In  1840,  the  lotteries  produced  the  gross  sum 
of  $215,437 — but  as  the  expenses  connected  with  their  management, 
amounted  to  $158,485,  it  left  a  balance  of  but  $56,952,  for  the  Govern- 
ment. The  "  sealed  paper,"  or  stamp  tax,  produced  $110,863,  but  as  this 
impost  has  been  nearly  doubled  during  1842,  the  revenue  must  at  present 
be  proportionally  greater. 


318 


MEXICO 


I  have  been  unable  to  obtain  any  of  the  official  documents  of  1841  and 
1842,  (in  consequence  of  the  disturbed  condition  of  the  country,)  with  the 
exception  of  the  Custom  House  returns,  for  the  former  year. 


East  Coast. 


West  Coast. 


Custom-Houses. 

f  Vera  Cruz, 
■j  Tampico, 
[  Matamoras, 
Mazatlan, 
Guyamaa, 
■{  Monterey, 
|  Acapulco, 
I  San  Bias, 


Tunnage  Duty. 

Nett  proceeds  after  deducti 
costs  of  collection. 

$31,032 

$3,374,528 

7,363 

1,019,04C 

3,525 

279,627 

6,245 

397,213 

2,092 

46,189 

810 

85,982 

573 

7,193 

2,719 

190,270 

$55,259 


$5,399,948 


It  will  be  perceived  that  the  Custom  Houses  of  Tabasco,  Campeche, 
Sisal,  Isla  de  Carmen,  and  Bacalar,  are  not  included  in  the  preceding 
statement,  in  consequence  of  the  separation  of  the  first  (during  the  pe- 
riod,) from  her  allegiance  to  the  Republic,  and  on  account  of  the  rebel- 
lious condition  of  the  rest.  At  the  date  of  the  statement,  reports  from 
Goatzacoalco,  Alvarado,  Tuxpan,  Huatulco,  Manzanillo,  La  Paz,  Pueblo 
Viejo,  Altata,  Loreto,  San  Diego,  San  Francisco,  Soto  la  Marina,  and 
from  the  frontier  posts  of  Paso  del  Norte,  Comitan,  Tonala,  Santa  Fe  de 
N.  Mexico,  y  Presidio  del  Norte,  had  not  been  yet  received  at  the  Treas- 
ury Office  in  the  Capital.  The  costs  of  the  collection  of  this  revenue 
amounted  to  $52,886,  and  the  salaries  of  officers  to  $295,404. 

I  regret  that  I  was  unable  to  obtain  any  very  accurate  date  of  the  Santa 
Fe  Trade,  which,  under  judicious  management,  might  no  doubt  be  very 
advantageously  conducted  for  the  interest  of  both  countries.  In  the  pres- 
ent distracted  state,  however,  of  Texas  and  the  Northern  Provinces  of 
Mexico,  little  is  to  be  hoped,  until  better  feelings  and  better  regulations  are 
firmly  established.  Santa  Fe,  and  Chihuahua  divide  the  trade  ;  the  lat- 
ter, since  the  year  1831.  The  subjoined  rough  estimate  has  been  given 
me  of  the  value  of  our  trade  at  both  places  since  that  period : 


Years. 

Total  at  cost. 

Taken  to  Chihuahua. 

Men. 

Wages. 

1831 

$250,000 

$40,000 

320 

130 

1832 

150,000 

45,000 

150 

80 

1833 

145,000 

50,000 

140 

75 

1834 

160,000 

60,000 

160 

80 

1835 

135,000 

55,000 

140 

70 

1836 

122,000 

55,000 

120 

60 

1837 

150,000 

75,000 

150 

80 

1838 

90,000 

50,000 

100 

50 

1839 

260,000 

150,000 

250 

135 

1840 

50,000 

10,000 

60 

30 

1841 

100,000 

50,000 

150 

80 

1842 

200,000 

60,000 

200 

120 

SMUGGLING.  319 

No  one  who  has  resided  any  length  of  time  in  Mexico,  either  connected 
or  unconnected  with  commerce,  can  fail  to  have  heard  of  the  extent  to 
which  smuggling  has  been  and  still  is  carried  on  in  the  Republic.  This 
infamous  system,  alike  destructive  of  private  morals  and  public  integrity, 
has  become  a  regular  business  in  portions  of  the  country,  and,  after  hav- 
ing been,  to  a  great  extent,  suppressed  on  the  Eastern  coast,  has  for  several 
years  occupied  the  attention  of  numbers  on  the  West.  Mr.  McClure* 
calculated  that  the  Republic  possesses  "  a  frontier  of  five  thousand  miles, 
including  the  sinuosities,  windings,  and  turnings  of  bays,  gulfs  and  rivers 
on  the  Pacific ;  three  thousand  miles  on  the  United  States  of  America  and 
Texas ;  and  above  two  thousand  five  hundred  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico ; 
making,  in  all,  ten  thousand  five  hundred  miles  of  frontier  to  guard 
against  illicit  trade,  without  an  individual  on  the  one  thousand  two  hundredth 
part  of  the  space  to  give  notice  of  any  depredations  that  may  happen." 

Now,  although  the  estimate  of  this  philanthropist  may  appear  rather 
fanciful,  when  we  remember,  that  wherever  there  are  smugglers  to  intro- 
duce it  is  probable  that  there  are  individuals  to  receive,  and  consequently 
dbat  the  Government  might  be  protected  ;  still  it  is  undeniable  that  the  ter- 
ritory is  vast,  the  population  sparse,  and  the  corruption  of  government 
agents  has  been  as  shameful  as  it  was  notorious.  Facts  came  to  my 
knowledge,  while  a  resident  in  Mexico,  which  proved,  beyond  question, 
this  immoral  tampering,  and  went  far  to  implicate  men  of  rank  anH  capa- 
city in  the  country.  I  forbear  to  detail  these  occurrences  here,  but  I  have 
the  documents,  in  writing,  under  the  attestation  of  an  individual  who  was 
approached  by  one  of  the  vile  instruments  in  the  deed  of  shame,  and  I 
feel  perfectly  satisfied  of  their  unexaggerated  accuracy.  I  do  not  men- 
tion this  circumstance,  for  the  purpose  of  reflecting  on  the  existing  Gov- 
ernment ;  but  simply  to  direct  the  attention  of  such  Mexicans  as  may  read 
these  letters,  to  a  frightful  evil,  the  extirpation  of  which  will  at  once  in- 
crease the  financial  resources  of  the  country  and  improve  the  morals  of 
their  people.  It  may  be  urged,  perhaps,  that  it  is  impossible  to  correct 
this  mal- administration ;  and,  I  confess,  there  appears  to  be  much  force  in 
the  remarks  which  I  subjoin,  from  the  author  I  have  just  quoted.  At  page 
292,  of  his  "  Opinions,"  Mr.  McClure  observes : 

"  In  the  comparatively  limited  frontiers,  and  crowded  population  of  the 
European  monarchies,  with  their  hundreds  of  thousands  of  soldiers  and 
officers  of  the  customs,  it  has  been  found  impossible  to  prevent  smuggling, 
with  all  its  attendant  crimes  and  corruptions.  What  hopes,  then,  can  a 
small  population  scattered  over  so  extensive  a  surface,  have,  that  a  reve- 
nue will  be  collected,  even  if  it  were  probable  in  the  present  state  of 
morals  to  find  honest  collectors !  It  would  be  contrary  to  all  former 
experience  and  analogy,  to  expect  anything  else,  in  this  country,  than  a 
gradual  diminution  of  the  revenue,  in  the  ratio  of  the  organization  of  smug- 
gling.    All  additional  guards  or  officers  of  the  customs,  would  certainly 

♦Vide  McCIure's  "Opinions." 


320  MEXICO. 

increase  the  quantity  of  bribery  and  corruption,  but  would  not  add  to  the 
revenue  a  sum  equal  to  their  pay  !" 

NATIONAL  DEBT. 

The  national  debt  of  Mexico  is  one  of  very  considerable  importance, 
and  may  be  divided  into  the  two  great  classes  of  Foreign  and  Internal 
debt. 

The  Internal  Debt  amounts  to  $18,550,000  ;  and  in  1841  the  customs 
were  mortgaged  to  pay  this  sum,  in  the  following  subdivisions  : 


15  "  " 

12  "  « 

10  «  " 

8  "  " 

10  "  « 

16f  "  « 

10  «  " 

98|  $18,550,000 

1$  balance  clear  of  lien,  for  the  Government ! 

100 

The  Foreign  Debt  is  still  larger  than  this  ;  and  (including  the  above,) 
I  will  state  the  entire  national  responsibility,  as  it  existed  at  the  end 
of  last  year : 

Internal  debt, $18,550,000 

Debt  to  English  creditors, 60,000,000 

United  States  claims  and  interest,  say      ....  2,400,000 

Copper  to  be  redeemed,  i      -         ....  2,000,000 

Claims  for  Hilazo, 700,000 

Bustamante  loan,        .......  500,000 


voted  to  a  debt  of 

$2,040,000 

<<                     (< 

410,000 

it                          it 

2,100,000 

«                          it 

3,100,000 

«                          « 

1,200,000 

"             Tobacco  fund  debt, 

9,700,000 

"             Interest  on  English  debt. 

"             Garrison  fund. 

$84,150,000 


Until  1841,  the  whole  of  the  revenue,  except  ll£  per  cent,  was  appro- 
priated to  the  payment  of  $18,550,000,  while  the  remaining  claims  were 
entirely  unprotected  by  securities.  Shortly  after  the  accession  of  Santa 
Anna  to  power,  he  suspended  (by  a  decree  of  the  16th  of  February)  the 
payment  of  the  first  five  funds  charged  upon  the  customs,  as  stated  in  a 
preceding  table,  but  reserved  the  active  appropriation  for  the  Tobacco  and 
English  interest  dells.  This,  as  may  be  well  imagined,  created  great  dis- 
satisfaction among  the  mercantile  classes,  and  among  numbers  of  persons 
who  had  invested  their  capital  in  Government  loans,  with  a  reliance  upon 
the  revenues  as  a  solemn  pledge  for  their  redemption.  Santa  Anna,  how- 
ever, withstood  the  torrent  manfully.  He  was  assailed  by  legations, 
newspapers,  and  individuals,  but  nothing  could  induce  him  to  yield  the 


NATIONAL    DEBT.  321 

pressing  wants  of  the  Government  to  their  importunities.  He  was,  in  fact, 
forced  to  the  measure.  The  national  credit  was  irremediably  impaired, 
and  he  found  it  impossible  to  obtain  loans.  The  consequence  was,  the 
seizure  of  the  customs  by  the  suspension  of  their  prior  appropriation  until 
he  was  enabled  to  relieve  his  Treasury. 

Independently  of  the  English  and  the  American  debt,  the  claims  upon 
the  Mexican  Government  have  usually  been  created  by  means  of  loans 
of  the  most  usurious  character.  In  order  to  illustrate  this  system,  and  to 
show  the  enormous  rates  at  which  lenders  endeavored  to  assure  themselves 
against  loss  by  depreciation;  I  will  recount  some  transactions  which  were 
partly  effected  in  1841. 

On  the  20th  of  September,  fifteen  days  before  the  treaty  of  Estansuela, 
the  administration  of  President  Bustamante  offered  the  following  terms  for 
a  loan  of  $1,200,000.  It  proposed  to  receive  the  sum  of  $200,000  in  cash, 
and  $1,000,000  represented  in  the  paper  or  credits  of  the  Government. 
These  credits  or  paper  were  worth,  in  the  market,  nine  per  cent.  About 
one-half  of  the  loan  was  taken,  and  the  parties  obtained  orders  on  the  seve- 
ral maritime  Custom  Houses,  receivable  in  payment  of  duties. 

The  revenues  of  the  Custom  House  of  Matamoras,  have  been  always 
hitherto  appropriated  to  pay  the  army,  on  the  northern  frontier  of  the  Re- 
public. During  the  administration  of  General  Bustamante,  the  command- 
ant of  Matamoras  issued  bonds  or  drafts  against  that  Custom  House  for 
$150,000,  receivable  for  all  kinds  of  duties  as  cash.  He  disposed  of  these 
bonds  to  the  merchants  of  that  port  for  $100,000 — and,  in  addition  to  the 
bonus  of  $50,000,  allowed  them  interest  on  the  $100,000,  at  the  rate  of 
three  per  cent,  per  month,  until  they  had  duties  to  pay  which  they  could 
extinguish  by  the  drafts. 

Another  transaction,  of  a  singular  nature,  developes  the  character  of  the 
Government's  negotiations,  and  can  only  be  accounted  for  by  the  receipt  of 
some  advantages  which  the  act  itself  does  not  disclose  to  the  public. 

The  mint  at  Guanajuato,  or  the  right  to  coin  at  that  place,  was  con- 
tracted for,  in  1842,  by  a  most  respectable  foreign  house  in  Mexico,  for 
$71,000  cash,  for  the  term  of  fourteen  years,  at  the  same  time  that  another 
offer  was  before  the  Government,  stipulating  for  the  payment  of  $400,000 
for  the  same  period,  payable  in  annual  instalments  of  $25,000  each.  The 
$71,000  in  hand,  were,  however,  deemed  of  more  value  than  the  pros- 
pective four  hundred  thousand  !  This  mint  leaves  a  nett  annual  income 
of  $60,000  ! 

With  such  a  spendthrift  abandonment  of  the  resources  of  the  country, 
continued,  for  a  series  of  years,  in  the  midst  of  the  pressure  of  foreign 
claims  and  domestic  warfare,  it  is,  indeed,  wonderful  that  Mexico  has  so 
long  survived  the  ruin  which  must  inevitably  overtake  her  with  a  debt  of 
$84,000,000,  and  an  annual  expenditure  (as  will  be  seen  from  the  suc- 
21 


322  MEXICO. 

ceeding  statement.)  of  $13,000,000,  independent  of  payment  of  interest, 
balances,  and  loans.  Yet  with  all  these  incumbrances,  created  under  the 
most  usurious  exactions,  it  is  greatly  to  her  honor  that  she  has  not  repu- 
diated the  claims  of  her  creditors  ; — a  moral  and  political  firmness  in  which 
she  may  well  be  emulated  by  some  of  those  very  States  that  have  been 
loudest  in  their  thoughtless  abuse  of  a  sister  Republic. 

A  late  Mexican  paper  states,  that  the  Minister  of  the  Treasury  of  Mex- 
ico has  published  a  decree,  by  which  the  President  directs  twenty-five 
per  cent,  of  all  the  receipts  of  the  Custom  Houses  of  the  Republic  to  be 
set  apart  as  a  "  sinking  fund,"  to  pay  the  public  debt.  This  fund  is  to 
be  inviolable.  The  decree  provides  for  the  consolidation  and  funding  of 
the  debt  at  the  rate  of  a  six  per  cent,  stock,  for  which  it  will  be  ex- 
changed by  such  as  choose.  Those  who  do  not  embrace  this  arrange- 
ment with  the  Government  are  to  have  their  claims  liquidated,  only,  uihcn 
out  of  the  sinking  fund  now  created,  those  who  accede  to  the  exchange  of 
stock,  shall  have  been  first  of  all  paid! 

If  we  exclude  the  American  debt,  now  in  the  course  of  payment,  (an 
exclusion  nevertheless  improper,  as  the  Government  has  but  changed  her 
responsibility  from  a  foreign  creditor  to  a  domestic  one,)  the  debt  of  Mex- 
ico may  still  be  fairly  estimated  at  $82,000,000,  which,  at  six  per  cent., 
bears  an  annual  interest  of  $4,920,000.  The  actual  income  from  cus- 
toms and  all  resources  may  be  set  down  at  $13,000,000 — 25  per  cent,  on 
which  will  produce  a  fund  of  $3,250,000,  or  $1,670,000  less  than  the  in- 
terest on  the  whole  debt!  It  may  well  be  asked  whence  is  to  proceed  the 
"  sinking  fund,'"  so  long  as  such  a  deficiency  exists  ? 

TABLE  OF   THE  EXPENSES  OF   THE   MEXICAN   GOVERN- 
MENT IN  1840. 


SUPREME    POWERS.  Dollars.  Total. 

Poder  Conservador, 30,000 

Legislature, 319,550 

Executive,  Ministers, Council,  Secretary,  Archives,  &c.  230,930 

Supreme  Court, 79,300 


$G59,780 


DIPLOMACY. 
Legations,  Consuls,  Commissioners,  &c.         -         -        140,000 

TREASURY. 
National  Treasury,  Almacanes  generalis,  Direccion 
de  Rentas,  Heads  of  the  Treasury,  and  Depart- 
mental Treasuries,   ------      251,758  6 

Pensions  to  retired  officers,  -----  174,942 

Pensions  of  the  Mont  de  Piete,        ...        -      160,554 


587,254  6 
$1,387,034  6 


CIVIL    LIST.  323 

Dollars.  Total. 

B't  for'd,  $1,387,034  6 

JUDICIARY. 
Salaries  of  Departmental  Magistrates,  Judges  and  Sub- 
alterns,  1,207,376 

POLITICAL. 
Governors,  Secretaries,  Departmental  Juntas,  Prefects, 

their  Secretaries  and  sub-Prefects,     -        -  : 847,467 

ECCLESIASTICAL. 
Bishoprics  of  Sonora  and  Yucatan,        ...  15,200 

Missions, 31,930 

.  47,130 

INSTRUCTION,  BENEVOLENCE,  AND  PUNISHMENT. 

Academy  of  San  Carlos,      .....  13,000 

Museum,         ........  5,600 

Conservatory  of  Chapultepec,  and  Professor  of  Botany,  2,200 
Colleges  of  St.  Juan  Lateran,  Ildefonso,  Esperito  San- 
to at  Puebla,          ......  20,000 

Professors  in  University  at  Mexico,    ....  7,613 

School  of  Surgery,        ......  1,500 

Professors  of  Medical  School  or  College,    .         .        -  10,800 

Director  of  Institution  of  Medical  Sciences,  &c.  &c.  2,160 

Hospitals,  Prisons,  Fortresses,        .         -         -  ■       -  180,000 

260,409 

SALARIES    OP    VARIOUS    OFFICERS    OF    PALACE. 

Concierge, --  420 

Architect,         *    -         -        -        -        -        ...  200 

Chaplain, 600 

Two  Porters,        -        -        -                 -        -        -  1,200 

Gardener,          - 1,000 

3,420 

RENTS,  PENSIONS,  ETC. 
Collegiate  of  N.  S.  of  Guadalupe,  -        -         -  26,391  4  9 

Civil  Pensions, 70,178 

96,596  4  9 

Sundries,  Printing,  &c.  &c -  87,596  5  3 

WAR  OFFICE. 

Salaries  of  officers— (active,)      -.       -        -        -  -    357,397  3  6 

"       "      «            (on  leave,)      ....  28,759  7  0 

"      "      "           (retired,)     -        -        -        -  .    718,399  2  0 

Military  Mont  de  Fiete, 291,079  3  9 

Army,  privates,  and  all  other  military  expenses,  -  6,604,379  7  9 

8,000,000 

DIVIDENDS    ON    FOREIGN    DEBT,  -  -  -  .       1,155,922  2   5 

$13,155,922  2  5 

Exclusive  of  the  payment  of  loans  and  balances. 

Mexico,  28th  July,  1841. 

The  deficiencies  to  which  I  have  alluded,  on  the  page  preceding  the 
last  tabular  statement,  must  be  still  more  apparent  and  lamentable  after 
21* 


324  MEXICO. 

an  examination  of  a  document  which  exhibits  an  expenditure  of  $8,000,000 
(in  a  time  of  peace  with  all  the  rest  of  the  world,)  for  a  War  Department, 
the  active  officers  of  which  receive  $357,397  a  year,  while  the  retired  are 
paid  more  than  double  that  amount ;  at  the  same  time  that  the  whole  Civil 
Administration  of  the  country  costs  but  about  four  millions  !  This  state- 
ment would  appear  to  indicate  a  degree  of  necessary  coercion  and  cor- 
ruption, which  are  but  slender  promises  of  the  growth  of  peace,  glory, 
and  prosperity.  The  feeble  support  given  to  public  instruction  by  direct 
contributions  of  the  Government  I  have  already  alluded  to,  and  the  reader 
may,  at  a  glance,  see  how  much  is  expended  for  punishment,  and  how 
little  for  instruction  and  benevolence.  The  army  is  constantly  the  fond- 
ling of  the  rulers  of  the  day.  By  it  they  are  elevated  to  power ;  by  it 
they  are  sustained  or  defeated,  and,  relying  on  its  bayonets  rather  than 
the  hearts  and  intellects  of  the  great  masses  of  their  countrymen,  they 
are  obliged  to  pay  both  well  and  promptly  the  masters  they  pretend  to 
rule. 

The  cost  of  this  branch  of  the  service  must  have  greatly  increased  in 
1842  and  1843,  in  consequence  of  the  meditated  attack  upon  Texas  and 
the  actual  conflict  with  Yucatan.  I  regret  that  I  have  no  data  upon  these 
subjects ;  but  it  may  fairly  be  calculated,  that  if  the  expenses  were 
$8,000,000  in  1840,  in  a  period  of  comparative  tranquillity,  (with  the  ex- 
ception of  a  short  revolution  in  the  Capital,)  they  must  have  been  swelled 
in  1842  and  the  present  year,  by  the  purchase  of  steamers  and  munitions 
of  war,  to  near  10  or  $12,000,000. 

ARMY  AND  NAVY. 

In  regard  to  the  numbers  of  the  Army,  I  am  equally  without  informa- 
tion since  1840 ;  but  I  may  state  that  the  forces  have  been  considerably 
augmented,  and  in  all  probability  amount  to  40,000  men.  In  1840,  the 
Mexican  army  was  composed  of 

14  Generals  of  Division, $500  per  month. 

26         "         of  Brigade, 375  "       « 

ARTILLERY. 
3  Brigades,  (on  foot,) 
1         "         (mounted,) 

5  Separate  Companies. 

ENGINEER    CORPS. 
1  Director  General, 
3  Colonels, 235  "       " 

6  Lieutenant  Colonels,             -.--...    141  «       « 
1  Adjutant, 104  "       " 

14  Captains, 84  «       « 

16  Lieutenants, 62  "        " 

10  Sub-lieutenants, 39  "       " 

SAPPERS. 
1  Battalion. 


NAVAL    AND    MILITARY    FORCE.  325 

PLANA    MAYER    DEL   EJERCITO. 
This  was  composed  of  the  General-in-Chief  and  a  number  of 
Colonels,  Lieutenant-Colonels,  Captains,  &c.  &c. 

PERMANENT  INFANTRY. 

8  Regiments  of  2  battalions  each,  each  battalion  of  8  companies, 

each  company  of  112  men,  officers  included — or  in  all  14,336 

persons  :  each  soldier  is  paid,    -         -         -         -         -         -  $11  93|  per  month. 

ACTIVE    INFANTRY. 

9  Regiments.     This  body  differs  from  the  preceding,  or  Perma- 

nent Infantry,  in  being  liable  to  service  only  when  required 
by  Government ;  or,  in  other  words,  it  is  a  sort  of  national 
militia,  well  drilled — Total  number,  16,128. 

PERMANENT    CAVALRY. 
8  Regiments,  each  regiment  composed  of  2  squadrons,  each 
squadron  of  2  companies.     Each  regiment  composed,  in  all, 

of  676  men,— or  the  8  of  4,056,  at 12  50     "       " 

35  Separate  Companies  in  various  places  throughout  the  Republic. 

ACTIVE    CAVALRY. 
6  Regiments  of  4  squadrons,  each  squadron  of  2  companies. 


The  Navy  of  Mexico  consists  at  present  of  3  Steam  Frigates,  2  Brigs,  3  Schooners, 
2  Gunboats.* 


MINES  AND  COINAGE. 

In  treating  of  the  resources  of  men  and  money  of  Mexico,  it  will  not 
be  uninteresting  (after  knowing  that  the  production  of  the  mines  amounts 
in  value  annually  to  about  twenty-two  millions,  of  which  twelve  find 
their  way  to  the  mints,)  to  present  a  statement  of  the  total  coinage  of  the 
country,  derived  from  the  records  of  the  earliest  periods  to  which  access 
could  be  had. 


*The  regular  force  of  the  United  States,  as  now  authorized  bylaw,  consists  of  717  commissioned  officers, 
17  storekeepers,  (of  whom  15  are  attached  to  the  Ordnance  and  2  to  the  Purchasing  department,)  250  en- 
listed men  for  the  ordnance  service,  and  7,590  non-commissioned  officers,  musicians,  artificers,  and  privates,  20 
chaplains  and  schoolmasters,  and  as  many  ordnance  sergeants  as  there  are  military  posts.  Clerks,  forage-mas- 
ters, and  wagon-masters,  are  also  employed  in  the  Quartermaster's  department  from  time  to  time,  according  to 
the  exigencies  of  the  service.  The  act  of  August  23, 1842,  reduced  the  rank  and  file  of  the  army  3,920  men.  The 
reduction  is  gradually  proceeding  in  the  manner  contemplated  by  the  act,  and  the  excess,  according  to  the  last 
returns,  is  l,970men.    It  is  supposed  the  prescribed  minimum  will  be  reached  by  the  beginning  of  the  year  1844. 

The  whole  number  of  troops  now  in  service  is  9,847,  consisting  of  781  commissioned  officers,  9,600  non-commis- 
sioned officers,  musicians,  artificers,  and  privates,  and  247  enlisted  men  of  ordnance. 

It  is  confidently  believed  that  the  present  military  establishment,  including  all  the  expenses  of  the  military 
academy  of  a  permanent  or  contingent  character,  may  be  estimated  at  $3,100,000,  exclusive  of  the  ordnance,  ord- 
nance stores,  small  arms,  and  equipments,  which  are  distributed  among  the  States,  or  accumulated  for  future 
use. 


326  MEXICO. 

TABLE  OF  THE  COINAGE  OF  MEXICO  FROM  THE  EARLIEST  PERIODS 
TO  THE  PRESENT  DAY. 

The  Mint  of  the  City  of  Mexico  was  established  in 
1535,  but  there  are  no  returns  for  the  first  155 
years,  until  1690.  If  we  take  the  average  of 
the  coinage  of  these  years  to  have  been  $1,- 

000,000,  we  shall  have $155,000,000 

From  1690  to  1803,  inclusive,         ....     1,353,452,020 

"     1803  to  1821,  inclusive, 261,354,022 

"  1822 5,543,254 

"  1823   - 3,567,821 

"  1824 3,503,880 

"  1825   ........  6,036,878 

"     1825  to  1831  (on  an  average  three  millions  per 

annum,) 15,000,000 

"     1831 13,000,000 

"     1832 12,500,000 

"     1833 12,500,000 

"     1834 12,040,000 

"     1835 12,000,000 

"     1836       ........  12,050,000 

"     1837 11,610,000 

"     1838  to  1843  (averaging  twelve  millions,)          .  60,000,000 
To  this  must  be  added  the  coinage  of  State  mints  not 
included  in  the  above  : 

Guanajuato,  from  1812  to  1826          ....  3,024,194 

Zacatecas        "     1810  to  1826      ...        .        .  32,108,185 

Guadalaxara,    «     1812  to  1826          ....  5,659,159 

Durango,          "     1811  to  1826       ....  7,483,626 

Chihuahua,      "     1811  to  1814          .        .        ...  3,603,660 

Sombrerete.,     "     1810  to  1811      ....  1,561,249 
All  of  these  for  the  five  years  (after  1826)  since  which 

they  have  been  calculated  in  the  general  coinage,  60,000,000 

Total $2,068,597,948 

This  amount,  you  will  see,  is  less  than  it  has  been  made  by  several 
other  writers. 


THE  CHURCH  OF  MEXICO— ITS  WEALTH  AND 
INFLUENCE. 

The  Church  of  Mexico  is  the  next  and  last  topic  to  which  I  shall  direct 
your  attention,  and  I  am  compelled  again  to  regret  the  want  of  an  accu- 
rate account  of  the  convents,  properties,  members,  and  wealth  of  the  Reli. 
gious  Orders  in  1842.  I  diligently  sought  information  from  individuals 
who  should  have  been  au  fait  on  these  subjects,  yet  I  could  gain  from 


NATIONAL     CHURCH.  327 

them  but  little  knowledge  of  an  authentic  character.  I  am  satisfied,  that 
this  arose  neither  from  a  narrow  distrust  of  foreigners,  nor  a  Chinese  dis- 
like of  divulging  the  secrets  of  their  country.  The  want  of  a  general 
work  of  reference  on  statistics  is  denounced,  as  "  shameful  and  lamenta- 
ble," by  Senor  Otero  in  his  treatise  on  the  social  and  political  condition  of 
Mexico. 

"  In  1842,"  says  this  writer,  "  we  possess  no  publication  upon  Mexican 
statistics  except  the  work  of  Baron  Humboldt,  written  in  1804.  That 
work,  precious  as  it  is,  has  become  useless  as  a  guide,  in  consequence  of 
the  immense  changes  during  the  intervention  of  a  long  and  revolutionary 
period.  A  complete  statistical  treatise  might  be  easily  compiled  without 
expense  to  the  National  Treasury,  by  merely  obliging  the  functionaries 
of  the  Government  to  make  regular  and  minute  returns,  which  should  be 
digested  and  edited  by  competent  persons  in  the  Capital.  Without  such 
a  work  it  will  be  impossible  to  understand  the  complicated  interests  of  this 
vast  country,  or  to  keep  the  machinery  of  its  Government  in  successful 
operation."* 

It  is,  indeed,  difficult  to  imagine  how  the  administrations  carried  on  the 
affairs  of  the  nation  as  long  as  they  have  done,  without  a  system  of 
statistical  book-keeping,  which  is  as  necessary  for  them  as  a  ledger  is  for 
the  prudent  merchant. 

The  Ministers  of  State  have  occasionally  presented  reports  to  the  Na- 
tional Congresses  upon  the  condition  of  their  several  Departments;  but 
these  productions  have  been  brief,  unsatisfactory,  without  detail,  and  rather 
involving  the  matters  of  which  they  treat  in  doubt  and  uncertainty,  by 
their  vague  generalization,  than  clearly  illustrating  the  interests,  wants, 
and  resources  of  the  Republic. 

Of  all  branches  of  the  national  administration,  none  has  suffered  more 
obscuration  by  this  diplomatic  rhetoric  than  the  question  of  the  Church, 
which  properly  belonged  to  the  portfolio  of  the  Minister  of  Public  Justice 
and  Instruction.  It  was  a  subject  that  men  seemed  fearful  to  approach. 
They  admitted  that  there  were  abuses  in  the  body ; — that  many  of  its 
members  were  corrupt,  idle,  ignorant,,  and  vicious  ; — and  that  it  enjoyed 
large  revenues,  flowing  in  a  narrow  stream,  which,  if  suffered  to  diverge 
into  smaller  rivulets,  would  nourish  the  parched  land  and  improve  the 
condition  of  suffering  multitudes.  But  wealth  and  property  were  banned 
and  sanctified.  The  establishment  was  the  religion;  and  he  who  ven- 
tured to  assail  the  one  must  necessarily  attack  the  other.  Thus,  even 
patriots  who  were  not  ordinarily  affected  by  nervous  dread,  stood  appalled 
at  the  first  frown  of  priestly  indignation,  and  trembled  for  their  fate  in  a 
conflict  between  the  temporal  power  and  that  tremendous  spiritual  influ- 
ence which  slept  like  an  electric  fire  in  the  hearts  of  the  people,  ready, 
on  the  slightest  impulse,  to  be  kindled  into  a  destructive  flame. 

It  would  be  unjust,  however,  to  leave  you  under  the  impression  that 
the  ministers  of  this  church  have  been  solely  engaged  in  enriching  them... 

*  Vide  Otero,  Cuestion  Social  y  Politica,  p.  30—31. 


328  M  E  X  I  C  O. 

selves,  and  scandalizing  the  cause  of  true  faith,  as  has  been  so  often  pro- 
claimed by  European  travellers.  Although  many  of  them  are  unworthy 
persons,  and  notwithstanding  their  rites  and  ceremonies  are  often  rather 
accommodated  to  a  population  scarcely  emerged  from  the  forests,  than  to 
intellectual  man ; — yet  the  wealth  of  the  church  has  not  been  at  all  times 
devoted  to  base  and  sordid  purposes,  or  used  to  corrupt  its  possessors  and 
the  people.  Throughout  the  Republic  no  persons  have  been  more  univer- 
sally the  agents  of  charity  and  ministers  of  mercy,  than  the  rural  clergy. 
The  village  curas  are  the  advisers,  the  friends  and  protectors,  of  their 
flocks.  Their  houses  have  been  the  hospitable  retreats  of  every  travel- 
ler. Upon  all  occasions  they  constituted  themselves  the  defenders  of  the 
Indians,  and  contributed  toward  the  maintenance  of  institutions  of  benevo- 
lence. They  have  interposed  in  all  attempts  at  persecution,  and,  wher- 
ever the  people  were  menaced  with  injustice,  stood  forth  the  champions  of 
their  outraged  rights.  To  this  class,  however,  the  wealth  of  the  church 
was  of  small  import. 

These  virtues  and  devotion  have  served  to  fix  the  whole  priesthood 
deeply  in  the  hearts  of  the  masses,  and  to  attach  the  poor  to  their  persons 
and  enlist  them  in  defence  of  their  property.  The  priest,  the  creed,  the 
church  and  its  revenues,  seemed  to  be  one  and  indivisible  in  the  notions  of 
the  people  ;  and,  in  turn,  the  priesthood  became  jealous  and  watchful  of 
the  power  which  this  very  affection  had  created.  Avarice  was  not  want- 
ing to  increase  their  gains  from  dying  penitents,  pious  bequests,  holy  offer- 
ings and  lavish  endowments.  And  thus  (often  grossly  human  while 
humbly  good,)  they  have  contrived,  upon  the  same  altar,  to  serve  God 
and  Mammon. 

It  is  now  quite  natural,  that  they  should  desire  to  preserve  the  property 
which  has  been  collected  during  so  many  years  of  religious  toil  and  ava- 
ricious saving,  and  they  dread  the  advance  of  that  intellectual  march 
which,  in  the  course  of  time,  will  consign  their  monastic  establishments 
to  the  fate  of  those  of  England  and  Spain.  The  combination  of  large 
estates,  both  real  and  personal,  in  the  hands  of  a  united  class  acting  by 
spiritual  influence,  under  the  direction  of  one  head,  must  be  powerful  in 
any  country,  but  certainly  is  most  to  be  dreaded  in  a  Republic,  where 
secret  ecclesiastical  influence  is  added  to  the  natural  control  of  extra- 
ordinary wealth. 

It  is  difficult  to  say  with  accuracy,  for  the  reasons  I  have  already 
assigned,  what  this  wealth  at  present  is, — but  I  think  the  number  of  Con- 
vents, devoted  to  about  two  thousand  Nuns  in  the  Republic,  is  fifty-eight ; 
for  the  support  of  which,  (in  addition  to  a  floating  capital  of  rather  more 
than  four  millions  and  a  half,  with  an  income  therefrom  of  two  hundred 
and  fifty  thousand  dollars,)  they  possess  some  seventeen  hundred  estates 
or  properties,  producing  an  annual  revenue  of  about  five  hundred  and 
sixty  thousand  dollars. 

There  are  about  three  thousand  five  hundred  Secular  Clergymen  and 
seventeen  hundred  Monks. 


NATIONAL    CHURCH.  329 

The  latter  possess  one  hundred  and  fifty  Conventual  establishments, 
divided  as  follows : 

The  Dominicans,  .        .        .        *  ....    25 

Franciscans,       ..........         68 

Augustines,  -        -        -        -        -        •        -        .        .         -22 

Carmelites,         -     ■   -        -        -        -        -        -        -        -.16. 

Mercedarios,         -        -        -        -        -        -        ...        .19 

150 

Nuns,       -•-        .        .        -        --        -        -        ...    2,000 

Monks,  -        - 1,700 

Secular  Clergy,         -        -        -        -        -        .        -        -        -    3,500 

7,200 

C     i 

A  number  certainly  inadequate  to  the  spiritual  wants  of  a  population 
of  seven  millions,  and  yet  too  small  to  be  proprietors  of  estates  worth  at 
least  ninety  millions  of  dollars,  according  to  the  annexed  valuation : 

Real  property  in  town  and  country,  -         -         -         -         -         .         $18,000,000 

Churches,  houses,  convents,  curates,  dwellings,  furniture,  jewels,  pre- 
cious vessels,  &c.         -         -         -         -         -         -         -        -         -         52,000,000 

Floating  capital — together  with  other  funds — and  the  capital  required 

to  produce  the  sum  received  by  them  annually  in  alms,       -   ~    -  20,000,000 

$90,000,000 

The  real  property  is  estimated  to  have  been  worth  at  least  25  per  cent, 
more,  previous  to  the  Revolution  ;  and,  to  this  enhanced  value  must  be 
added  about  $115,000,000  of  capital,  founded  on  "  contribuciones  "  and 
"derechos  reales,"  or  imposts  to  which  they  were  entitled,  on  the  property 
of  the  country.* 

The  value  of  their  churches,  the  extent  of  their  city  property,  the 
power  they  possess  as  lenders,  and  the  quantity  of  jewels,  precious  ves- 
sels, and  golden  ornaments,  will  raise  the  above  statement,  I  am  confident, 
to  nearer  $100,000,000  than  ninety,  or  to  a  sum  about  eighty -eight  millions 
less  than  it  was  before  the  outbreak  of  the  war  of  Independence ;  at  which 
period,  the  number  of  ecclesiastics  is  estimated  to  have  been  10,000  or 
13,000,  including  the  lay-brotherhood  and  the  subordinates  of  the  church. 

During  the  royal  Government,  the  influence  of  these  rich  proprietors 
must  necessarily  have  been  exceedingly  great.  It  was  the  policy  of  the 
Spanish  cabinet  to  cherish  the  temporalities  of  the  Mexican  Church.  The 
mayorazgos  or  rights  of  primogeniture,  forced  the  younger  sons  either  into 
the  profession  of  arms  or  of  religion  ;  and  it  was  requisite  that  ample  pro- 
vision should  be  made  for  them  in  secure  and  splendid  establishments. 
Thus,  all  the  lucrative  and  easy  benefices  came  into  the  hands  of  Span- 

*  Vide  Otero,  p.  38.  39,  43. 


330  MEXICO. 

iards  or  their  descendants,  and  by  far  the  greater  portion  of  the  more 
elevated  ecclesiastics  were  persons  of  high  birth  or'  influential  connections. 

But  the  rights  of  primogeniture  have  been  abolished.  The  laws  of  the 
Republic  have  taken  away  the  power  to  collect  tithes  by  compulsory  pro- 
cesses. And  the  consequence  is,  that  the  church  has  become  unpopular 
with  the  upper  classes  as  a  means  of  maintenance,  while  a  comparatively 
democratic  spirit  has  been  infused  into  its  members,  who  now  spring  from 
the  humbler  ranks.  Still,  however,  the  remaining  wealth  and  the  forces 
of  clanship  have  preserved  in  their  body  a  most  powerful  influence. 

While  this  change  has  occurred  in  the  church,  the  army  has  become 
equally  unpopular  with  the  upper  ranks  as  a  profession,  and  as  its  com- 
mand is  consequently  intrusted  to  men  who  have  arisen  immediately 
from  the  people,  or,  in  other  words,  as  the  same  classes  of  society  fur- 
nish both  the  church  and  the  army,  the  church  and  the  army  will,  in 
all  probability,  (while  forming  aristocracies  in  themselves,)  sustain  each 
other  against  the  aristocracy  of  landed  proprietors,  and  all  who  live  upon 
their  income  without  the  necessity  of  labor. 

Between  these  two  classes  there  will  be  a  constant  war  of  opinion,  while 
the  only  real  democracy  of  the  nation  is  left  to  reside  in  individuals, 
who  have  neither  estates  to  despoil  nor  wealth  to  confiscate.  The  fellow 
feeling  between  the  church  and  the  army,  arising  from  the  kindred  ori- 
gin of  their  numbers,  is,  however,  no  protection  to  the  riches  of  the  former. 
The  Government,  pressed  by  its  wants,  is  beginning  to  encroach  gradually 
on  its  resources,  and,  within  the  last  two  years,  has  appropriated  parts  of 
the  real  estates  of  the  clergy  to  replenish  an  empty  treasury.  That  such 
is  an  honest  and  patriotic  devotion  of  ecclesiastical  means,  no  one  can 
deny,  and  the  doctrine  is  sustained  by  legal  writers  of  the  highest  author- 
ity.* The  church  has  no  need  of  possessions,  except  for  purposes  of 
beneficence  and  charity.  The  vow  of  its  members  is  for  chastity  and 
poverty.  It  receives,  only  to  become  an  almoner  for  more  extensive 
benevolence.  And  as  the  State,  in  the  hour  of  need,  must  ever  be  the 
chief  pauper,  she  has  an  unquestioned  right  to  call  upon  the  ministers 
of  God,  in  the  spirit  of  the  religion  they  teach,  to  open  their  coffers  freely 

*  Vide  Vattel,  Book  1,  Chapter  12,  §152. 

"The  State,"  says  this  high  legal  authority,  "  has  unquestionably  the  power  to  exempt  the  property  of  the 
church  from  all  imposts,  when  that  property  is  not  more  than  adequate  to  the  support  of  the  ecclesiastics.  But 
the  priesthood  has  no  right  to  this  favor  except  by  the  authority  of  the  State,  which  has  always  the  right  to  revoke 
it  when  the  public  good  requires.  One  of  the  fundamental  and  essential  laws  of  society  is,  that  on  all  occasions 
of  need  the  goods  of  all  its  members  ought  to  contribute  proportionally  to  the  wants  of  the  community.  Even 
the  prince  himself  cannot,  by  his  authority,  grant  an  entire  exemption  to  a  numerous  and  wealthy  body  of  per- 
sons, without  committing  an  extreme  injustice  to  the  rest  of  his  subjects,  upon  whom  the  burden  would  alto- 
gether fall  by  this  exemption." 

Far  from  the  goods  of  the  church  being  exempted  because  they  are  consecrated  to  God,— it  is  for  that  very 
reason  that  they  should  be  the  first  taken  for  the  welfare  of  the  State.  There  is  nothing  more  agreeable  to  the 
Common  Father  of  men,  than  to  preserve  a  notion  from  destruction.  As  God  has  no  need  of  property,  the  con- 
secration of  goods  to  Him,  is  their  devotion  to  such  usages  us  are  pleasant  to  him.  Besides,  the  property  of  the 
church,  by  the  confession  of  the  clergy  themselves,  is  chiefly  destined  for  the  poor.  Now,  when  the  State  is  in 
want,  it  is,  doubtless,  the  first  pauper  and  the  worthiest  of  succor.  We  may  extend  this  reasoning  to  the  most 
ordinary  cases,  and  say,  that  to  impose  a  part  of  the  current  expenses  on  the  church  property  in  order  to  relieve 
tho  people  to  that  extent,  is  really  to  give  those  goods  to  the  poor,  according  to  the  spirit  of  their  original 
destination. 


NATIONAL     CHURCH 


331 


for  the  public  good.  With  its  ninety  or  one  hundred  millions  of  property 
and  money,  it  might  extinguish  the  national  debt  of  eighty-four  millions, 
and  still  leave  an  ample  support  for  its  seven  thousand  members,  or,  at 
least,  for  its  Secular  Clergy,  who  would  be  cherished  and  sustained  more 
liberally  by  the  masses  for  an  act  of  such  Christian  sacrifice  and  benev- 
olence- 


LETTER    XXXII. 


POLITICAL    HISTORY. 


Darkness  hangs  upon  both  extremes  of  Mexican  History.  The  an- 
cient  story  of  that  beautiful  country  is  lost  in  the  gloom  of  tradition  ; — the 
detail  of  her  colonial  histoiy  is  buried  in  Spanish  archives ; — her  revolu- 
tionary history  is  blotted  with  blood ; — her  present  is  uncertain,  and  her 
future  is  impenetrable  even  to  the  eye  of  hope. 

I  will  take  the  liberty  to  recall  to  you,  however,  some  of  the  prominent 
events  that  have  recently  occurred,  and  the  character  and  purposes  of 
those  to  whom  the  nation  owes  its  origin. 

Cortez  was  the  personification  of  a  period  in  the  development  of  this 
Continent.  Warrior,  orator,  statesman,  poet,  historian  ; — he  blended  in 
himself  every  requisite  for  a  daring  adventurer,  and  his  success  may 
well  be  esteemed  the  result  of  a  single  resolute  mind  over  a  whole  Em- 
pire of  mere  physical  force.  He  had  the  power  to  conceive  and  fashion 
his  projects ;  to  lead  and  control  men  ;  to  fight ;  to  diplomatize  with  cun- 
ning foes ;  to  speak  with  fluency  and  eloquence  to  multitudes ;  to  sing  in 
sweet  verse  the  lay  of  knight  or  lover,  and,  with  becoming  modesty  and 
grace,  to  tell  the  tale  of  his  own  achievements  in  phrase  befitting  the 
ear  of  an  enlightened  monarch.*  In  fact,  he  was,  in  every  quality,  the 
proper  person  to  lead  so  bold  a  band  of  Spaniards  as  that  which  gathered 
around  his  standard,  when  he  unfurled  it  for  the  conquest  of  Mexico. 

While  the  love  of  glory,  and  the  enthusiasm  of  a  bigot  in  religion,  united 
with  the  most  eminent  loyalty  to  form  the  chief  characteristics  of  Cortez, 
the  purposes  and  temper  of  those  who  joined  his  enterprise  are  much  more 
questionable. 

Spain  required  a  vent  for  her  population,  and  the  new-found  world 
afforded  it.  People  of  staid  habits  and  regular  morals  were  not  tempted 
to  the  perils  of  an  adventurous  life ;  but  there  were  thousands  who  had 
neither  means  nor  objects  sufficient  to  retain  them  on  their  native  soil. 
Men  of  mark,  but  broken  fortunes  ;  rakes  of  old  distinction,  such  as  de- 
cay in  the  corrupting  atmosphere  of  courts  ;  noisy  and  riotous  young  men  ; 
soldiers,  half  bandit,  half  warrior ;  and  all  the  offal  of  a  society  dissi- 

*  Sec  the  recent  translation  of  his  Dispatches  to  the  Emperor,  translated  by  Mr.  Folsom.  of  New- York. 


POLITICAL    HISTORY.  333 

pated,  hopeless  and  impoverished,  and  living  without  those  sanctions  and 
restraints  that  alone  make  life  valuable  or  useful.  Such  were  the  reck- 
less  crews  that  first  set  forward  in  the  conquest  of  this  hemisphere,  without 
the  common  sympathies  of  humanity  ;  regardless  of  the  laws  of  nature  or 
nations,  and,  indeed,  heedless  of  everything  but  the  acquisition  of  treasure 
or  territory,  by  a  warfare  that  degenerated  into  the  murder  of  people  to 
whom  the  name  of  the  Spanish  king,  or  the  idea  of  the  Christian's  God,  had 
never  been  revealed,  even  in  their  wildest  dreams. 

Thus  was  the  foundation  of  the  new  Empire  laid,  in  the  violent  destruc- 
tion of  an  ancient  religion  and  monarchy. 

Families  of  character  and  distinction  soon  came  over,  and  the  new  do- 
main was  rapidly  filled  with  a  population  willing  to  take  advantage  of  its 
resources ; — but  several  things  impeded  the  social  and  moral  progress  of 
New  Spain. 

It  was  but  a  colony  ;  and  a  colony,  too,  devoted  by  the  mother  country  to 
none  of  those  branches  of  industry  that  foster  the  independent  and  manly 
growth  of  a  people,  and  bring  out  the  mind  of  a  nation.  It  was  the  mine 
and  mint  of  Spain. 

It  was  taught  to  believe,  that  silver  was  a  sort  of  vegetable  product  of 
the  earth,  growing  like  flowers,  and  to  be  had  for  the  asking.  And  thus 
at  the  outset  of  its  career,  the  germ  of  industrious  self-reliance  and  inde- 
pendence, was  withdrawn  from  the  fostering  policy  of  the  parent  State. 
Commerce,  manufactures,  and  an  extensive  agriculture, — looking  to  all 
parts  of  the  world  as  its  consumers, — were  discouraged,  and  the  infant 
colony  was  forced  to  receive  from  Spain  the  results  of  her  industry,  while, 
in  turn,  it  sent  nothing  back  that  indicated  genius,  talent,  activity,  enter- 
prise, invention; — or,  indeed,  anything  but  that  its  valleys  and  hills  con- 
tained exhaustless  quantities  of  precious  metals,  which  it  could  drag  from 
their  recesses  and  transmute  into  coin  by  the  labor  of'  enslaved  and 
ignorant  Indians. 

Nor  was  New  Spain  opened  to  the  colonization  of  other  nations,  who 
might  have  been  invited  to  a  healthful  and  energizing  mixture  of  races. 
On  the  contrary,  the  Spaniards  grafted  themselves  upon  the  conquered 
and  debased  aborigines,  and  the  mongrel  blood  became  dull  and  indolent. 

Although  the  laws  of  the  Indies  were  calculated  to  protect  the  natives, 
they,  nevertheless,  suffered  dreadfully  under  the  proscriptive  adminis- 
tration of  colonial  power;  and,  becoming  the  victims  of  avarice,  were 
gradually  degraded,  step  by  step,  to  the  helot  condition  in  which  we  find 
them  at  the  present  day. 

"  Instead  of  restraints  on  the  claims  of  ecclesiastics,  the  inconsiderate 
zeal  of  the  Spanish  legislators,"  says  Dr.  Robertson,  "  admitted  them  into 
America  to  their  full  extent,  and  at  once  imposed  on  the  Spanish  colonies 
a  burden,  which  is  in  no  slight  degree  oppressive  to  society,  even  in  its 
most  improved  state.  As  early  as  the  year  1501,  the  payment  of  tithes 
in  the  colonies  was  enjoined,  and  the  mode  of  it  regulated  by  law.     Every 


334  MEXICO. 

article  of  primary  necessity,  toward  which  the  attention  of  new  settlers 
must  naturally  be  turned,  was  submitted  to  this  grievous  exaction.  Nor 
were  the  demands  of  the  clergy  confined  to  articles  of  simple  and  easy 
culture.  Its  more  artificial  and  operose  productions,  such  as  sugar,  indigo 
and  cochineal,  were  declared  to  be  titheable  ;  and  thus  the  industry  of  the 
planter  was  taxed  in  every  stage  of  its  progress,  from  its  rudest  essay  to 
its  highest  improvement.  To  the  weight  of  this  legal  imposition,  the 
zeal  of  the  American  Spaniards  made  many  voluntary  additions; — they 
bestowed  profuse  donations  on  churches  and  monasteries,  and  thus,  unpro- 
fitably  wasted  a  large  proportion  of  that  wealth,  which  might  have  nour- 
ished and  given  vigor  to  productive  labor  in  a  growing  colony." 

The  Spaniard  found  a  beautiful  world, — a  land  bathed  by  two  oceans, 
rising  from  one  and  sloping  to  the  other, — and  on  both  acclivities  pos- 
sessing all  the  climates  of  the  world,  from  the  graceful  shadow  of  the 
palm  on  the  sea-shore,  to  eternal  ice  on  the  mountains  overhanging  the 
Valley  of  Mexico.  All  these  climates  {on  the  same  parallel  of  latitude,). 
produced  cotton,  sugar,  tobacco,  rice,  cochineal,  wheat,  barley,  corn,  wine, 
and  every  variety  of  luscious  fruit ;  while,  over  all,  an  eternal  spring  bent 
its  blue  and  cloudless  skies.  And,  as  if  the  surface  of  the  earth  were  not 
sufficient  to  pamper  the  most  craving  appetites  of  her  creatures,  nature 
had  veined  the  secret  depths  of  the  mountains  with  silver  and  precious 
materials,  in  exhaustless  quantities.  Yet,  this  prolific  richness  served  but 
to  hasten  the  destinies  of  the  invaders,  and  to  make  them  careless,  depen- 
dent and  idle. 

The  parallel  has  so  frequently  been  attempted,  that  it  would  perhaps  be 
profitless  to  contrast  the  settlers  of  this  alluring  country  with  the  equally 
enthusiastic  but  hardy  and  toilsome  bands  who  peopled  our  north.  But, 
it  may  not  be  unwise  to  remember  the  stability  we  have  attained,  on  dreary 
and  inhospitable  coasts,  by  the  steady  march  of  faith,  liberty,  and  the  purity 
of  enterprise ;  while  our  southern  neighbors,  more  favored  by  soil  and 
seasons,  have  failed  in  producing  the  results  of  social  and  political  peace, 
under  the  influence  of  a  different  creed,  and  the  corruptions  of  a  monarch- 
ical Government. 

We  have  now,  however,  to  deal  with  a  new  people.  Mexico  has  thrown 
off  the  dominion  of  old  Spain,  and  there  is  no  marvel  greater,  in  history, 
than  that  an  Empire,  with  enervated  character, — oppressed,  ignorant,  and 
almost  destroyed  as  was  this  colony, — should  still  have  had  the  spirit  to 
discover  and  assert  her  rights.  She  cast  aside  the  allurements  of  rank  ; 
she  converted  her  whole  territory  into  a  battle-field  ;  she  tore  herself  from 
all  the  fast-rooted  allegiances  and  loyalties  of  three  centuries;  she  aban- 
doned fortune  ;  she  went  through  fifteen  years  of  civil  slaughter, — and, 
at  length,  alone,  unaided,  unsympathized  with  by  the  rest  of  the  world, 
she  achieved  her  independence.  For  the  victory  over  such  obstacles, 
Mexico  deserves  praise.     She  deserves  more.     She  deserves  the  high  and 


POLITICAL    HISTORY.  335 

unqualified  respect  of  the  world,  and  especially  of  that  portion  of  it  which, 
par  excellence,  pretends  to  be  the  fostering  parent  of  human  rights  and 
liberty  throughout  the  globe.  It  proves  that  she  possesses  a  sense  of  right, 
a  virtue  of  endurance,  a  devotion  to  principle  • — and  that,  with  domestic 
peace,  she  would  assume  among  the  nations  of  the  earth  the  high  place 
to  which  she  is  entitled,  by  the  genius  of  her  children  and  the  magnificence 
of  her  Empire. 

Let  me  now  invoke  your  attention  to  a  brief  historical  outline  of  the 
Mexican  Revolution,  and  its  consequences. 

It  was  not  until  the  mother  country,  herself,  became  temporarily  sub- 
jected to  a  foreign  Power,  that  the  war  of  Independence  was  successfully 
commenced  in  her  possessions  on  this  Continent.  That  war  had  its  origin 
as  much  in  a  desire  of  independence  of  France,  as  of  Spain ;  but  it  was 
too  late  to  quell  entirely  the  growing  love  of  liberty,  after  the  restoration 
of  Ferdinand  VII.  in  1814. 

When  Spain,  in  the  following  year,  made  her  chief  effort  against  her 
rebellious  colonies,  by  the  noted  expedition  from  Cadiz  under  Morillo, 
those  colonies  might  still  have  been  within  her  control  if  proper  means  had 
been  resorted  to  by  the  directors  of  her  councils.  And  it  is  the  opinion 
of  distinguished  statesmen,  that  had  she  succeeded  in  "  reducing  the  coast 
of  Terra  Firma  and  New  Grenada,  the  pi'ovinces  of  La  Plata,  divided 
among  themselves,  and  weakened  by  the  Portuguese  occupation  of  Monte 
Video,  would,  in  all  probability,  not  have  held  out  against  her  power." 

But  there  were  a  thousand  things  to  exasperate  the  war  of  Independence. 
It  was  not  only  a  war  of  freedom,  but  of  caste;  and  it  is  almost  impossible 
to  credit  the  atrocities  with  which  it  was  prosecuted  against  the  insurgents. 

After  the  first  successes  of  the  Mexicans,  there  was  a  period  of  reaction 
when  the  Spaniards  again  obtained  a  temporary  mastery  under  Calleja, 
and  the  annals  of  the  time  teem  with  accounts  of  the  sanguinary  ven- 
geance wreaked  by  that  inhuman  monster  on  the  victims  who  fell  within 
his  grasp.  After  he  obtained  possession  of  the  revolted  city  of  Guana- 
juato, he  caused  the  inhabitants  to  be  driven  into  the  great  Square  of  the 
town,  and  near  fourteen  thousand  men,  women  and  children  were  butchered, 
like  cattle,  on  the  spot.  Proclaiming  that  "  powder  and  ball  were  too  costly 
to  be  wasted  in  their  execution,"  he  let  loose  his  soldiery  on  the  defence- 
less crowd,  with  an  order  "  to  cut.  their  throats," — and  it  is  related,  that  the 
fountains  and  gutters  of  the  city,  literally  ran  with  human  blood ! 

These  were  things  to  be  remembered  and  to  exasperate.  There  was 
no  longer  any  hope  for  the  people.  There  was  no  disposition  to  temporize 
or  conciliate.  It  was  submission  or  death.  And  the  "una  salus  victis 
nullam  sperare  salutem,"  nerved  their  arms  and  forced  them  into  ardent 
and  continued  resistance. 

They  conquered.  I  will  not  go  over  the  whole  detail  of  the  Revolution. 
On  the  24th  of  February,  1822,  the  Plan  of  Iguala  was  declared.  Shortly 


336  MEXICO. 

afterward,  Iturbede  ascended  the  Imperial  throne,  to  enjoy  a  short  and 
troubled  reign ;  and  it  was,  perhaps,  by  the  false  direction  given  to 
public  sentiment  and  the  ideas  of  the  masses  at  this  early  moment  of  Inde- 
pendence, that  we  may  attribute  the  subsequent  disorders  of  the  Republic. 
It  is  true,  that  Mexico  was  not  then  prepared  for  perfect  democracy ;  but 
as  the  nation  required  a  patriotic  direction,  efforts  should  have  been  made, 
under  proper  checks  and  balances,  to  win  ihe  minds  of  the  people  to  a 
love  of  those  free  institutions  which  the  pure  and  intellectual  men  of  the 
country  have  been  ever  desiring.  Dissatisfied  as  the  Mexicans  were  with 
the  administration  and  principles  of  Iturbede,  they  resorted  to  no  acts  of  vio- 
lence against  an  individual  who  had  so  signally  aided  them  in  their  recent 
conflict.  They  provided  an  ample  support  for  himself  and  family,  after  his 
dethronement,  and  on  the  eleventh  of  May,  1823,  he  sailed  for  Leghorn. 

It  is  at  this  period  that,  in  fact,  commences  the  portion  of  Mexican  his- 
tory with  which  it  is  our  chief  interest  to  deal.  The  war  of  Independence, 
as  we  have  seen,  was  a  war  of  escape.  It  settled  no  principle, — estab- 
lished no  system.  And  when  the  old  order  of  things  had  entirely  disap- 
peai-ed,  the  question  rose  as  to  what  should  be  the  government  hereafter. 
Independence  had  opened  the  rest  of  the  world  to  the  inspection  of  the 
Mexicans.  They  beheld  the  progress  of  art,  civilization,  and  freedom 
among  their  immediate  neighbors  at  the  north,  and  they  resolved  to  adopt 
our  system. 

After  the  departure  of  the  Emperor,  the  Government  remained  provis- 
ionally in  the  hands  of  Bravo,  Victoria,  and  Negrete ;  and  a  National 
Representative  body,  after  a  session  of  fourteen  months,  formed  a  Con- 
stitution, (proclaimed  on  the  4th  of  October,  1824,)  by  which  the  sixteen 
original  States  were  united  in  a  Federal  Republic. 

On  the  1st  of  January,  1825,  the  first  Congress  under  this  Constitution 
assembled  in  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  General  Victoria  was  installed  as 
President  of  the  Republic.  During  the  administration  of  this  person,  the 
spirit  of  discontent  already  broke  forth  among  the  ambitious  spirits  of  the 
country,  and  there  were  several  "  Pronunci?nientos,"  or  declarations  of 
distinguished  men,  seconded  by  portions  of  the  military,  intended  to  ex- 
cite revolutionary  movements  against  the  existing  Government. 

The  first  of  these  gritos  was  headed  by  Robato  and  Colonel  Staboli, 
and  designed,  as  they  declared,  to  deprive  every  Spaniard  throughout  the 
country,  of  public  employment.  The  next,  was  by  Padre  Arenas,  against 
the  Federative  System,  and  in  favor  of  Centralism  ; — and  another,  (also 
against/edera//on,)  called  the  "  Plan  of  Montanyo,"  was  made  at  Tulan- 
cingo,  but  soon  suppressed  by  Guerrero. 

Upon  the  whole,  however,  the  administration  of  Victoria  passed  off  with 
some  degree  of  popularity,  until  near  its  close,  when  the  two  great  parties 
of  the  country  became  embodied  and  powerful  in  the  associations  known 
as  the  Escossaises  and  Yorkinos,  or,  Scotch  and  York  lodges. 

The  Escossais,  or  Scotch  party,  was  decidedly  in  favor  of  the  establish- 
ment of  a  political  power  with  central  strength,  if  not,  indeed,  of  bringing 


POLITICAL     HISTORY.  337 

the  country  back  again  to  its  ancient  allegiance.  Its  rival  party,  or 
Yorkino,  meanwhile,  was  as  positively  opposed  to  all  foreign  interference, 
central  rule  and  monarchial  tendencies,  as  it  was  devoted  to  Federation 
and  Republicanism. 

The  influence  of  State  Rights  and  Federation  were  known  to  be  hostile 
to  the  centralization  and  efficacy  of  arbitrary  powers ;  and  there  is  but 
little  doubt,  that  the  aristocratic  faction  was  favored  in  its  operations  by 
those  European  powers  and  their  emissaries,  who  sought  to  gain  by  intrigue 
an  influence  on  this  Continent  which  they  had  lost  in  the  recent  wars. 
It  is  alleged,  by  some,  that  this  was  perceived  by  the  Minister  who  so  ably 
represented  us  at  that  period,  with  the  new  Republic  ;  and  he  is  charged 
with  having  procured  the  charter  for  the  opposing  lodge,  and  with  foster- 
ing and  stimulating  the  designs  and  leaders  of  the  democratic  party.  It 
is  not  necessary  for  me  to  treat  of  the  propriety  with  which  a  foreign 
Minister  could  interfere  in  the  domestic  strifes  of  the  Government  to  which 
he  is  accredited,  nor  do  I  believe  that  Mr.  Poinsett  ever  stepped  beyond 
the  limits  of  his  official  duties  and  rights  in  regard  to  these  matters  in 
Mexico.  Yet  I  cannot  but  think  it  was  both  his  right  as  a  man,  and 
his  duty  as  a  diplomatist,  (faithfully  representing  a  republican  nation 
near  another  Republic  on  the  American  Continent,)  to  do  all  in  his  power, 
lawfully,  to  cherish  and  vivify  the  spirit  of  freedom  in  the  country  to 
which  he  was  accredited,  and  to  overcome  the  efforts  of  European  powers 
for  the  establishment  of  a  state  of  things  directly  hostile  to  American 
principles  and  interests.  It  is  unnecessary  for  me  to  pursue  this  subject 
further,  as  the  wisdom  of  such  diplomacy  must  be  evident  to  all  who 
know  the  difficulties  and  temptations  with  which  a  young,  inexperienced, 
and  distracted  Republic  is  surrounded  at  the  outset  of  its  political  ex- 
istence. 

But  the  term  of  Victoria's  administration  was  not  to  end  without  some 
signal  opposition  to  himself  personally.  In  December,  1827,  General 
Bravo  denounced  the  President  as  connected  with  the  Yorkinos.  He  took 
arms  against  the  Government,  proclaimed  himself  in  open  revolt,  and 
was  speedily  subdued  and  banished  ;  but  the  seed  of  discord  had  been  al- 
ready deeply  sown  ;  and  in  the  election  which  subsequently  occurred, 
Gomez  Pedraza,  who  was  the  candidate  of  the  Escossais,  obtained  the  Pres- 
idency by  a  majority  of  but  two  votes  over  Guerrero,  his  competitor. 
Thus,  amid  the  most  angry  excitement  of  embittered  parties,  terminated 
the  first  chief  magistracy  of  the  new  Republic. 

It  should  be  recollected,  that  during  this  administration  Iturbede  had  re- 
turned from  his  banishment,  and  was  shot  almost  immediately  after  land- 
ing. It  is  the  general  impression,  that  this  act  was  not  desired  by  the 
Government,  and  that  the  execution  of  the  illustrious  patriot  was  alone 
owing  to  the  indiscreet  zeal  of  his  captor. 

Scarcely  had  Pedraza  been  elected,  when  symptoms  of  discontent  were 
manifested  among  the  liberals.  The  Yorkinos  had  been  foiled  most  un- 
22 


338  MEXICO. 

expectedly,  and  by  a  mere  nominal  majority ;  but  they  were  not  content 
to  bow  with  submission,  like  good  republicans,  to  the  will  of  the  people 
expressed  according  to  the  forms  of  a  Federal  Constitution.  The  conse- 
quence was,  that  before  the  new  President  had  taken  his  seat,  Santa  Anna 
made  his  appearance  on  the  political  stage,  and,  under  the  plea  that  the 
election  of  Pedraza  had  been  produced  by  fraud,  "'pronounced,"  against 
him  at  the  head  of  a  small  but  determined  force.  The  movement  became 
speedily  popular.  The  prejudices  of  the  Creoles,  or  natives,  against  the 
Spaniards  and  their  aristocratic  partisans,  were  skillfully  played  upon, 
and  the  imeute  resulted  on  the  4th  of  December,  1828,  in  the  "  Pronun- 
cirniento  of  the  Accordada  "  in  favor  of  the  defeated  candidate,  Guer- 
rero. The  City  of  Mexico  was  given  up  to  a  mob ;  the  Parian  was 
sacked ;  the  defenceless  Spaniards  suffered  from  the  resentment  of  an 
infuriate  populace ;  and  Pedraza  (abandoning  the  post  of  Minister  of  War 
to  his  opponent,  Santa  Anna,)  fled  from  the  country,  and  took  refuge  in 
the  United  States.  On  the  first  of  January,  1829,  Congress  declared 
Guerrero  to  have  been  duly  elected  President ; — Bustamante  was  named 
Vice-President ;  and  the  government  went  once  more  into  quiet  operation 
under  the  old  Constitution. 

The  ease  with  which  the  supreme  authority  could  be  destroyed  or 
established  by  a  bold  and  daring  chieftain,  had  been  now  most  fatally 
demonstrated  for  the  future  peace  of  the  country ;  and  ambitious  spirits 
were  not  long  wanting  to  take  advantage  of  this  dangerous  facility. 
Scarcely  had  Guerrero  been  seated  in  the  presidential  chair,  and  signal- 
ized his  duplicity  by  desiring  the  recall  of  Mr.  Poinsett,  when  Bustamante, 
who  came  into  power  with  him  as  Vice-President,  organized  the  army  at 
Jalapa,  and  upon  some  trifling  pretext,  " pronounced' "  in  that  city.  Santa 
Anna  at  first  feebly  opposed  this  movement,  but  at  length  joined  the  dis- 
contented General.  The  revolution  was  made  effectual  ; — Guerrero  was 
overthrown,  and  fled  ; — the  Vice-President,  Bustamante,  assumed  the  reins 
of  government,  and  under  his  administration,  the  Spanish  power  was  finally 
subdued  by  the  victory  gained  by  Santa  Anna  over  Barradas,  on  the  11th 
of  September,  1830,  at  Tampico.  The  unfortunate  Guerrero  was  in  the 
meantime  taken  prisoner,  and,  in  1831,  was  executed  for  treason. 

After  this,  tranquillity  prevailed  until  1832,  when  Santa  Anna — who  in 
fact  had  been  the  author  of  the  present  dynasty — suddenly  "pronounced" 
against  the  Ministers,  and  soon  afterward  against  the  President  himself, 
at  Vera  Cruz.  A  battle  was  fought  at  Tolomi,  and  the  insurgents  de- 
feated ; — but  he  retired  again  to  Vera  Cruz,  strengthened  his  power  by 
forces  from  some  other  Departments,  declared  himself  in  favor  of  Pedraza, 
(wlwm  he  had  driven  out  of  the  country  two  years  previous,)  entered  into  a 
convention  with  Bustamante  at  Zavaleta,  in  December  of  1832,  and 
— having  dispatched  a  vessel  for  the  exiled  Pedraza — brought  him  back 
to  the  Republic  and  sent  him  to  the  Capital,  to  serve  out  the  remaining 
three  months  of  his  unexpired  term ! 


POLITICAL    HISTORY.  339 

The  first  act  of  the  restored  President  was  to  eulogize  his  foe  and  friend, 
and  his  last,  (in  the  brief  power  allowed  him,)  to  exercise  his  influence  in 
controlling  an  election  to  the  chief  magistracy,  by  which  this  skillful 
Warwick  was  elevated  to  supreme  power  on  the  16th  of  May,  1833. 

Santa  Anna  was  not,  however,  to  be  safe  from  the  perils  that  had  beset 
his  predecessors.  He  had  given  a  fearful  example  of  discontent  to  the 
country,  and — notwithstanding  his  known  and  dreaded  vigor — in  the  first 
year  of  his  presidency,  a  "Pronimcimiento,"  (central  in  its  character,) 
was  made  by  Escalada,  at  Morelia,  in  favor  of  the  "fueros"  of  the  church 
and  army.  About  this  period  he  was  proclaimed  Dictator  by  the  army 
at  Cuautla — an  office  he  refused  to  accept — and,  immediately  marching 
a  sufficient  force  against  the  insurgents,  he  suppressed  the  revolutionary 
movement  at  Guanajuato. 

In  1835,  there  was  another  "  Pronuncimiento  "  against  the  Government 
in  Zacatecas,  which  was  quelled  ;  and,  in  a  few  days  after  the  victory 
over  General  Garcia,  there  was  another  declaration,  known  in  the  history 
of  the  country  as  the  "  Plan  of  Toluca,"  which  is  generally  believed  to 
have  been  favored  by  the  President  himself. 

This  Plan  struck  a  fatal  blow  at  the  Federative  System.  It  destroyed 
the  Constitution  of  1824: — it  vested  the  power  in  a  Central  Government; 
abolished  the  Legislatures  of  the  States,  and  changed  those  States  into 
Departments,  under  the  control  of  military  commandants  and  governors, 
who  were  responsible  to  the  chief  authorities  of  the  nation  alone.  This 
was  the  last  great  act  in  Mexico  of  the  military  President,  and  its  princi- 
ples formed  the  basis  of  the  "  Central  Constitution,"  adopted  in  1836, 
in  lieu  of  the  Federal  Constitution  of  1824. 

While  these  things  were  occurring,  the  revolt  in  Texas  had  become  so 
formidable,  that  it  appeared  necessary  for  the  Mexican  Government  to 
strike  a  decisive  blow  against  the  rebellious  province.  Accordingly,  as 
soon  as  Santa  Anna  had  assured  himself  of  the  establishment  of  Central- 
ism, he  departed  with  the  flower  of  his  troops  to  reconquer  Texas.  The 
fate  of  that  memorable  expedition  is  too  well  known  to  require  notice  in 
this  sketch.  The  regulator  of  his  own  country  and  the  conqueror  of  the 
Spaniards,  lost  both  his  liberty  and  his  reputation  in  a  conflict  against 
another  race  at  the  battle  of  San  Jacinto;  and  it  is  perhaps  owing  to  the 
private  interposition  of  our  own  President,  and  the  popularity,  at  that 
period,  of  Houston,  that  his  life  was  preserved  from  a  population  infuriate 
with  the  memory  of  massacres  that  emulated  the  butcheries  of  Calleja. 
But  he  was  both  spared  and  liberated,  and  returned,  through  the  United 
States,  to  his  farm  at  Manga  de  Clavo,  where,  suffering  under  exceeding 
unpopularity  with  his  countrymen,  he  buried  himself  for  a  long  period  in 
obscurity  and  retirement. 

When  Santa  Anna  departed  from  the  Capital  on  this  luckless  adven- 
ture, he  left  the  administration   in  the   hands  of  General  Barrigan,   as 
President.     This  person,  however,  shortly  died,,  and  the  government  was 
22* 


340  MEXICO. 

conducted  subsequently  by  Coro,  until  Bustamante  (whose  friends  had 
taken  advantage  of  Santa  Anna's  misfortunes  and  unpopularity,  to  elect 
him  to  the  Presidency  under  the  new  Constitution.)  returned  from  France, 
where  he  had  resided  since  his  defeat. 

Almost  immediately  after  the  accession  of  this  distinguished  personage 
to  the  chief  magistracy,  there  were  tmeutes  in  favor  of  Federation,  and 
Gomez  Farias,  who  was  then  in  prison  ;  but  these,  and  a  number  of  other 
trifling  conspiracies,  were  at  once  put  down  by  Pedraza  and  Rodriguez. 

The  most  brilliant,  however,  of  all  the  exploits  for  the  emancipation  of 
Mexico,  occurred  in  1838,  under  the  unfortunate  Mexia.  He  advanced 
toward  the  Capital  with  a  brave  band  of  patriots,  and  was  encountered  in 
the  neighborhood  of  Puebla  by  Valencia  and  Santa  Anna,  who,  creeping 
forth  from  his  retreat  to  regain  popularity  by  some  striking  exploit,  was 
weakly  trusted  by  the  man  he  had  already  so  often  foiled.  Mexia  lost 
the  day,  and  with  scarce  time  left  for  prayer  or  communication  with  his 
family,  was  shot,  by  order  of  his  conqueror,  on  the  field  of  battle.* 

In  the  winter  of  that  year,  the  port  of  Vera  Cruz  was  blockaded  by 
the  French  squadron,  and  the  town  attacked  by  the  troops.  This  again 
afforded  an  opportunity  to  the  victim  of  San  Jacinto  to  repair  his  tarnished 
reputation  by  military  glory,  and  to  regain  his  standing  with  the  army. 
Accordingly  he  at  once  repaired  to  the  port,  took  command  of  the  troops, 
and,  while  following  the  French,  as  they  retreated  to  their  boats,  received 
a  wound,  which  has  lamed  him  for  life.  But  this  loss  was  a  gain  to  the 
daring  chieftain  ;  and  well-worded  proclamations,  and  a  discreet  use  of 
the  amputated  limb,  (even  to  the  present  day,  as  we  have  seen  in  a  prece- 
ding letter,)  have  served  to  restore  him  to  the  authority  he  so  ingloriously 
lost  in  1836.f 

Yet  he  did  not  think  that  the  time  for  him  to  appear  again  prominently 
on  the  political  arena  had  then  arrived,  and  he  consequently  remained 
quiet  during  the  "  Pronuncim^ento  "  of  the  Federalists  at  the  Palace  of  Mex- 
ico, on  the  15th  of  July,  of  1840,  under  Urrea,  which  was  completely 
suppressed  by  Valencia,  although  President  Bustamante,  was  at  one  time. 
a  prisoner  in  the  hands  of  the  insurgents. 

In  August  of  1841,  however,  a  different  state  of  things  existed ;  and  it 
was  then  that  the  last  (it  is  to  be  hoped)  of  the  sanguinary  revolutions 
which  have  distracted  Mexico,  broke  out.  This  insurrection  was  announced 
by  the  "  Pronuncimiento  "  of  Paredes  in  Guadalaxara,  and  was  quickly 

*  "  You  are  right,"  said  he  to  Santa  Anna,  when  he  was  refused  a  respite ;  "  /  would  not  have  granted  you 
half  the  time,  had  I  conquered!" 

t  Santa  Anna  causes  the  5th  of  December  to  be  celebrated  in  Mexico,  as  a  day  of  Victory  over  the  French '. 
They  tell  a  story  of  him  at  Vera  Cruz,  which  is  illustrative  of  his  cunning.  One  morning,  early,  during  the 
siege,  a  party  of  French  soldiers  had  made  its  way  into  the  town  arid  gol  possession  of  the  house  in  which  Santa 
Anna  was  lodged.  As  soon  as  he  was  disturbed  by  the  noise  of  the  troops,  ho  jumped  out  of  bed,  (Hid  in  his 
shirt  and  trowsers,  attempted  to  escape.  On  the  stairs  he  met  the  soldiers,  headed  by  the  Prince  dr  Joinnille, 
who  immediately  demanded,  "  Where  is  Santa  Anna'!"  "  There,"  said  he,  pointing  over  his  shoulder  with 
his  thumb  to  a  room  in  which  another  General  was  quietly  sleeping.  "And  who  are  you?"  said  the  Prince; 
"Oh!  nobody,"  said  Santa  Anna,  "  nobody  but  a  servant  of  the  house."  The  Frincc  pushed  on  in  a  hurry 
to  secure  the  General,  while  the  General  as  hurriedly  pushed  for  the  door! 


CONSTITUTION    OF    THE    REPUBLIC.  341 

enforced  by  Valencia  and  Lombardini  in  the  Capital,  and  Santa  Anna 
himself,  at  Vera  Cruz.  Its  causes  were  various  and  indefinite  ; — but  the 
chief  matters  of  popular  discontent,  viz.,  the  consumption  duty  of  15  per 
cent.,  and  the  Constitution  of  '36,  were  entirely  beyond  the  control  of  the 
existing  administration.  The  "Pronuncimientos,!  of  the  Generals  were  suc- 
ceeded by  a  month's  contest  in  the  streets  of  Mexico ;  a  bombardment  of 
the  Capital ;  some  harmless  conflicts  between  the  rival  troops  on  the  adja- 
cent plains,— and  the  drama  was  ended  by  the  downfall  of  Bustamante,  the 
elevation  of  Santa  Anna  to  the  Provisional  Presidency,  and  the  "  Plan  of 
Tacubaya,"  (as  a  substitute  for  the  Constitution,)  by  the  seventh  article  of 
which,  he  was  invested  with  dictatorial  powers. 

It  was  provided  by  this  Plan,  that  a  Congress  should  assemble  in  1842, 
to  form  a  new  Constitution  for  the  government  of  the  Republic ;  and, 
accordingly,  in  June  of  that  year,  a  corps  of  patriotic  citizens,  chosen  by 
the  people,  met  for  that  purpose  in  the  Capital.  This  Congress  was  greeted 
by  the  Provisional  President,  in  a  speech,  strongly  declaring  his  par- 
tiality for  a  firm  and  central  Government,  but  intimating,  nevertheless,  his 
entire  disposition  to  acquiesce  in  the  final  decision  of  that  intelligent  body. 

Yet,  in  December  of  last  year,  after  two  attempts  to  form  a  system  that 
would  accommodate  the  wishes  of  the  country  and  the  administration, — 
the  Provisional  President,  (in  spite  cf  the  frank  disclosure  of  his  intention 
to  submit  to  the  popular  will,)  dissolved  the  Congress  without  authority, 
and  convened  a  Junta  of  Notables  for  the  purpose  of  proposing  a  new 
Constitution.  The  result  of  the  deliberations  of  that  body  were,  the 
"Bases  of  Political  Organization  of  the  Mexican  Republic,"*  pro- 
claimed on  the  13th  of  June,  1843. 

By  the  first  Title  of  this  Instrument,  it  is  declared  that  Mexico  adopts 
the  form  of  a  Popular  Representative  system  for  its  government ;  that  the 
territory  shall  be  divided  into  Departments  ;  that  the  political  power  essen- 
tially resides  in  the  Nation,  and  that  the  Holy  Roman  Catholic  and  Apos- 
tolic creed  is  professed  and  protected  to  the  exclusion  of  all  others. 

The  second  Title  declares  that  slavery  is  not  to  be  permitted ; — that 
no  one  is  to  be  molested  for  his  opinions,  or  called  on  for  contributions, 
except  such  as  are  regularly  imposed  by  law. 

The  third  Title  specifies  who  are  Mexican  citizens,  their  lights  and 
obligations.  Citizens  are — all  who  are  born  within  the  Mexican  territory, 
or  beyond  it,  of  a  Mexican  father  ; — all  who  were  in  Mexico  in  1821, 
and  have  not  renounced  their  allegiance  ; — all  who  were  natives  of  Cen- 
tral America  when  it  belonged  to  the  Mexican  nation,  and  since  then  have 
continued  to  reside  in  Mexico  ; — and,  lastly,  all  who  have  obtained  or  shall 
obtain  letters  of  naturalization. 

In  order  to  enjoy  fully  the  i*ights  of  Mexican  citizenship,  (in  voting,)  the 
following  qualifications  are  required.  Being  Mexicans,  they  must  be 
eighteen  years  of  age  and  married,  or  twenty-one  years,  if  not  married ; 
and  they  must  enjoy  an  annual  income  of  at  least  two  hundred  dollars, 

*  This  is  the  title  of  the  system.    It  is  not  called  a  Constitution. 


342  MEXICO. 

derived  from  actual  capital,  industry,  or  honest  personal  labor.  In  addition 
to  these  requirements,  no  one  will  be  allowed  to  vote,  afcer  the  year  1850, 
unless  he  is  able  to  read  and  write. 

The  rights  of  citizenship  are  suspended  (among  other  disqualifications,) 
by  domestic  servitude,  habitual  intemperance,  taking  of  religious  vows, 
keeping  of  prohibited  gaming-houses,  and  fraudulent  bankruptcy. 


The  Legislative  power  is  defined  by  the  fourth  Title.  This  power  is  to 
reside   in  a  Congress,  divided  into  a  Chamber  of  Deputies  and  a  Senate. 

The  Chamber  of  Deputies  is  to  be  composed  of  individuals  elected  by 
the  Electoral  Colleges  of  the  Departments,  in  a  manner  which  will  be 
hereafter  specified,  and  in  the  ratio  of  one  for  seventy  thousand  inhabitants. 
The  Departments  which  have  not  so  many  residents  shall,  nevertheless, 
be  entitled  to  a  Deputy,  and  there  shall  likewise  be  one  for  every  frac- 
tion over  tnirty-five  thousand.  It  is  required,  that  a  Deputy  shall  be 
thirty  years  of  age,  and  possessed  of  an  annual  income  of  twelve  hundred 
dollars.     A  moiety  of  the  Chamber  is  to  be  renewed  every  two  years. 

The  Senate  is  to  be  composed  of  sixty-three  members,  two-thirds  of 
whom  are  to  be  elected  by  the  Departmental  Assemblies,  and  the  other 
third  by  the  Chamber  of  Deputies,  the  President  of  the  Republic,  and  the 
Supreme  Court  of  Justice.  One-third  of  this  body  is  to  be  renewed  bien- 
nially. The  Departmental  Assemblies  are  to  select  five  persons  from 
each  of  the  classes  of  agriculturists,  miners,  proprietors  or  merchants,  and 
manufacturers ;  the  rest  of  the  quota  to  be  chosen  by  them  from  distin- 
guished individuals.  Those  who  are  to  be  appointed  by  the  President  and 
the  Supreme  Court,  are  to  be  taken  from  among  individuals  who  have 
signalized  themselves  in  the  civil,  military,  and  ecclesiastical  career. 
Senators  must  possess  an  annual  income  of  two  thousand  dollars. 

The  Congress,  so  constituted,  will  sit  twice  a  year  for  the  space  of  three 
months,  commencing  its  terms  on  the  1st  of  January  and  1st  of  July.  Its 
members  are  not  allowed  to  obtain  place  or  preferment  from  the  Govern- 
ment, except  for  the  most  imperative  reasons. 

A  third  body,  called  the  Permanent  Deputation,  is  to  be  formed  by  this 
Congress,  and  will  be  composed  of  four  members  of  the  Senate  and  five 
of  the  Chamber,  whose  term  of  office  shall  continue  until  the  next  meet- 
ing of  the  National  Assembly  and  the  election  of  their  successors.  The 
duty  of  this  Permanent  Deputation  is  to  call  extra  sessions  of  Congress 
whenever  they  may  be  decreed  by  the  Government,  and  to  receive  the 
certificates  of  the  election  of  President  of  the  Republic,  Senators,  and 
Ministers  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  Justice. 


The  fifth  Title  defines  the  Executive  Power,  which  is  confided  for  jive 
years  to  a  President,  who  must  be  a  Mexican  by  birth,  in  the  full  enjoy- 
ment of  all  his  rights  of  citizenship,  more  than  forty  years  of  age,  and  a 
resident  of  the  Republic  at  the  time  of  his  election. 


CONSTITUTION    OF    THE    REPUBLIC.  343 

Among  the  numerous  duties  prescribed  for  him  by  the  Bases,  are  the 
following : 

To  impose  fines  not  exceeding  $500  on  those  who  disobey  his  orders,  and 
are  wanting  in  due  respect  and  obedience  to  the  laws. 

To  see  that  prompt  justice  is  administered  ;  to  visit  the  tribunals  whenever 
he  is  informed  of  delays,  or  that  prejudicial  disorders  exist  in  those  todies  ; 
to  require  that  a  preference  he  given  to  causes  concerning  the  public  welfare, 
and  to  exact  information  touching  the  same  whenever  it  may  be  deemed 
proper. 

To  object  ("hacer  observaciones")  within  thirty  days  (after  audience  of 
the  Council,  which  will  be  hereafter  described,)  to  the  projects  of  laws 
approved  by  the  Chambers,  suspending  their  operation  in  the  mean  time. 
If  the  project  be  reapproved,  the  Government  may  suspend  it  until  the 
near  termination  of  the  period  when  the  Chambers  can  consider  the  sub- 
ject. If  it  be  then  approved  by  two-thirds  of  both  bodies,  the  Govern- 
ment will  be  obliged  to  publish  it  as  a  law.  If  the  thirty  days  terminate 
after  the  regular  period  of  the  session,  the  Government  is  to  direct  its 
observations  to  the  Permanent  Deputation  ;  and  if  the -term  pass  without 
any  action  by  the  President,  the  law  will  be  considered  as  sanctioned,  and 
published  without  delay. 

The  President  may  declare  war,  and  dispose  of  the  armed  forces  of  the 
nation  as  he  sees  fit,  according  to  the  objects  of  their  institution.  He  may 
expel  from  the  Republic  unnaturalized  foreigners,  who  are  deemed  dan- 
gerous ;  and  he  may  name  orators  from  the  Council  to  defend  the  opinions 
of  the  Government  before  the  Chambers. 

The  Council  of  the  Government  is  to  be  composed  of  seventeen  per- 
sons named  by  the  President,  whose  tenure  of  office  is  perpetual,  and 
whose  duties  are  to  give  their  aid  to  the  Government  in  all  matters  required 
in  these  Bases,  and  others  upon  which  it  shall  be  proper  to  consult  them. 
It  is  their  privilege,  moreover,  to  propose  to  the  Government  all  regula- 
tions and  systems  they  may  deem  necessary  for  the  public  good  in  every 
branch  of  the  administration. 

By  the  sixth  Title,  the  Judicial  Power  of  the  country  is  deposited  in  a 
Supreme  Court,  in  Departmental  Tribunals,  and  others  already  estab- 
lished by  law.  There  is  to  be  a  perpetual  Court  Martial,  chosen  by  the 
President. 

The  Government  of  the  Departments  is  regulated  by  the  seventh 
Title. 

Each  Department  is  to  have  an  Assembly  composed  of  not  more  than 
eleven,  nor  less  than  seven,  who  must  be  twenty-five  years  of  age,  and  pos- 
sessed of  the  qualifications  required  for  a  Deputy  to  Congress.  Their 
term  of  office  is  four  years. 

The  powers  of  these  Assemblies  are  very  simple  and  irresponsible, 
and  scarcely  amount  to  more  than  a  species  of  municipal  police,  the  whole 


344  MEXICO. 

of  which  is  subject  to  the  review  of  the  President  of  the  Republic,  and 
of  a  Governor  appointed  by  the  President. 

Title  eighth,  relates  to  the  Electoral  Power. 

The  population  of  Mexico  is  divided  into  sections  of  Jive  hundred  inhab- 
itants for  the  election  of  primary  Juntas,  and  the  citizens  will  vote,  by 
ticket,  for  one  elector  for  every  jive  hundred  inhabitants.  These  primary 
electors  will  name  the  secondary,  who  are  to  form  the  Electoral  College 
of  the  Department  in  the  ratio  of  one  secondary  elector  for  every  twenty 
of  the  primary.  This  Electoral  College,  again,  will  elect  the  Deputies  to 
Congress,  and  the  members  of  the  Departmental  Assembly ;  and  its  mem- 
bers must  have  an  income  qualification  of  at  least  five  hundred  dollars 
per  annum. 

On  the  1st  of  November  of  the  year  previous  to  the  expiration  of  the 
Presidential  term,  each  Departmental  Assembly,  by  a  majority  of  votes, 
or,  in  case  of  a  tie,  by  lot,  will  select  a  person  as  President  for  the  suc- 
ceeding five  years.  There  is  no  clause  in  the  Instrument  limiting  the 
term  or  terms  for1  which  an  individual  may  be  elected,  or  prescribing  a 
mode  of  supplying  the  vacancy  occasioned  by  his  death,  resignation,  or 
incompetency. 


Such  is  an  outline  of  the  chief  features  of  this  remarkable  Document. 
At  its  opening,  it  declares  the  establishment  of  a  Popular  Representative 
Government,  yet  nothing  can  be  less  popular  in  its  provisions  than  the 
Instrument  itself.  The  people  are  divided  into  classes  of  Citizens  and 
Inhabitants.  Property  qualifications  are  created,  while  domestic  servants, 
and  the  clergy,  (no  matter  how  honest,  excellent  and  virtuous  they  may 
be,)  are  disfranchised  in  the  same  category  with  gamblers  and  drunkards, 
though  they  possess  both  the  required  income  and  education. 

The  opinion  of  the  people  is  not  to  be  taken  directly  by  vote  in  regard 
to  the  men  who  are  to  represent  them  in  the  Departments  and  in  Con- 
gress, or  to  govern  them  in  the  Presidency ;  but  their  sentiments  are  to 
be  filtered  through  three  bodies  of  Electors  before  their  representation  is 
finally  effected.  And,  last  of  all,  the  supreme  power  is  vested  in  a  Cen- 
tral Government,  while  the  people  are  left  with  scarce  a  shadow  of  au- 
thority over  their  homes  and  interests  in  the  Departments. 

It  will  be  at  once  observed,  that  President  Santa  Anna  has  thus  suc- 
ceeded in  enforcing  his  favorite  scheme  of  Centralism.  He  must,  there- 
fore, become  directly  responsible  for  its  results,  whether  for  evil  or  for 
good,  and  the  glory  or  disgrace  of  his  country,  in  the  estimation  of  all 
foreign  countries,  must  alight  upon  his  head  alone. 


POWER    OF    THE    PRESIDENT.  345 

Qualifications,  property,  and  the  intrenchments  of  power,  fortify  him 
on  every  side.  He  is  very  distant  from  the  people.  The  four  millions 
of  Mexican  Indians,  (scarcely  one  of  whom  ever  had  an  annual  income 
of  two  hundred  dollars  in  his  life,)  must  always  be  unrepresented  in  the 
Government.  No  hope  is  proposed  to  them  of  advancement  or  regeneration  ; 
while  the  Chief  Magistrate,  himself,  is  surrounded  by  a  complicated  ma- 
chine, that  wants  every  element  of  democratic  simplicity,  and  possesses 
a  thousand  inlets  to  corruption  and  mismanagement.  If  it  operates  well,  it 
secures  strong  central  authority.  If  it  operates  badly,  it  must  break  to 
pieces  like  some  cumbrous  engine  destroyed  by  the  confusion  and  multi- 
plicity of  its  forces. 

In  either  event,  the  President  may  deem  himself  safe.  If  the  Bases 
succeed  in  giving  peace,  progress,  and  prosperity  to  Mexico,  he  will  have 
the  honor  of  the  movement.  But  if  he  finds  that  they  are  not  efficacious, 
or  are  likely  to  injure  his  schemes,  it  will  be  a  task  neither  of  difficulty  nor 
danger,  in  so  complicated  a  maze,  to  loosen  some  trifling  screw,  or  throw 
some  petty  wheel  from  its  axle,  by  which  the  whole  must  be  disarranged 
without  the  responsibility  of  even  its  humblest  engineers. 

So  long  as  the  President  rules  under  an  instrument  which  gives  him 
complete  conti'ol  of  the  army,  the  power  to  declare  war,  entire  patronage 
of  the  civil  list,  the  right  to  impose  fines,  veto  laws,  and  interfere  with  the 
judiciary  ; — -he  will  possess  an  authority  too  great  to  be  intrusted  to  any 
one  individual  in  our  day  and  generation. 

In  the  preceding  sketch  of  Mexican  Republicanism  for  the  last  twenty 
years,  you  will  observe  that  I  have  not  aimed  to  give  an  extended  notice  of 
the  various  leaders  who  placed  themselves  at  the  head  of  different  move- 
ments. I  have  not  done  so,  because  I  perceived  no  evidence  of  a  progressive 
principle  throughout  the  revolutions.  The  Government  has  generally 
been  strong  enough  to  suppress  all  disturbances  hut  those  that  were  coun- 
tenanced by  Santa  Anna.  With  a  true  love  of  freedom  among  a  few,  a 
scramble  for  power  among  others,  and  carelessness  or  supineness  among 
the  great  body  of  the  people, — the  country  has  gone  on  blundering  from 
revolution  to  revolution,  without  advancing  nearer  to  liberty  and  enlight- 
enment than  did  the  Barons  of  old  when  they  sallied  forth  on  feudal 
forays  against  each  other. 


LETTER    XXXIII 


POLITICAL    PROSPECTS    OF    MEXICO. 


There  are  in  Mexico  but  two  important  classes  of  people,  without  any 
numerous  and  distinctive  body  of  enlightened  lawyers  or  merchants,  who, 
together  with  the  educated  and  respectable  mechanics  and  agriculturists, 
would  counterbalance  the  influence  of  the  church  and  the  army. 

Almost  every  respectable  man  you  meet  on  the  streets,  bears  some 
military  insignia  upon  his  person ;  and  when  the  troops  are  abroad,  you 
will  frequently  find  them  commanded  by  beardless  urchins  of  not  more 
than  fifteen  or  sixteen  years.  In  this  manner,  important  families  and 
extensive  connections  are  secured  by  a  patronage  which  amounted,  in  the 
year  1841,  (as  we  have  seen,)  to  the  enormous  sum  of  eight  millions  of 
dollars. 

The  other  important  class  (but  with  diminished  power,)  is  composed 
of  the  clergy,  who, — you  will  remember  from  the  statistics  already  recorded 
in  these  letters, — have  accumulated  a  large  share  of  the  real  property  of 
the  Republic,  in  addition  to  the  immense  personal  wealth  that  swells  their 
coffers. 

Thus,  between  the  army  and  the  church,  (one  by  the  direct  influence 
of  authority  and  force,  and  the  other  by  as  dreaded  spiritual  weapons,) 
the  whole  nation  is  surrendered  to  but  two  influences,  while  the  body  of 
the  people  is  too  ignorant  and  disunited,  and  the  men  of  wealth  and,  edu- 
cation are  too  supine  or  peaceful,  to  interfere  in  behalf  of  the  demo- 
cratic progress  of  their  country.  You  are  warned  of  this  double  domin- 
ion by  the  constant  sound  of  the  drum  and  the  bell,  which  ring  in  your 
ears  from  morn  to  midnight  and  drown  the  sounds  of  industry  and  labor. 

It  will  be  at  once  perceived,  that,  in  such  a  state  of  society,  there  are 
none  either  to  express  a  disinterested  public  opinion  in  favor  of  really 
free  institutions,  or  to  sustain  them  with  manly  energy. 

I  confess,  that  I  have  studied  the  history  of  her  civil  commotions  without 
satisfaction,  in  seeking  for  the  causes  of  this  political  condition  of  Mexico. 
They  have  always  appeared  to  me  (as  I  before  said,)  to  be  entirely  ob- 
jectless, and  rather  momentary  disorders  than  well  devised  revolutions. 
They  have  been  utterly  unprogressive,  and  never  enforced  or  decided  a 
principle. 

The  result  is,  that  in  such  a  bungling  system  of  strife,  the  people 
have  had  neither  peace  nor  advancement,  while  incessant  commotion 


CAUSES    OF    NATIONAL    ADVERSITY.        347 

has  disturbed  the  healthful  action  of  internal  police,  and  consequently- 
impaired  the  morals  of  the  masses. 

It  must  be  remembered  that  when  Mexico  threw  off  the  Spanish  yoke, 
it  was  at  first  rather  to  get  rid  of  her  rulers  than  of  her  system  ; — more 
to  overthrow  foreign  tyranny  and  colonial  subjection,  than  to  establish  a 
Republic.  The  original  Plan  of  Iguala,  to  which  Iturbede  adhered,  pro- 
posed the  offer  of  the  Mexican  Crown  to  Ferdinand,  as  a  separate  sove- 
reignty from  that  of  Spain.  Events  prevented  the  fulfillment  of  this 
scheme ;  and  as  soon  as  Iturbede  became  successful  in  his  military  career, 
he  influenced  his  soldiery  (contrary  to  the  wishes  of  the  people,  as  ex- 
pressed in  Congress,)  to  proclaim  him  Emperor. 

Had  there  been  intelligence,  virtue,  and  power  enough  among  the 
masses  to  resist  this  encroachment  in  the  bud  ;  or,  had  Iturbede  imitated 
Washington,  in  the  possession  of  a  limited  authority  together  with  great 
popular  confidence,  he  might  have  laid  deeply  and  firmly  the  foundation 
of  a  Republican  Constitution.  The  people  would  have  bestirred  them- 
selves liberally  in  systems  of  National  Education  and  improvement,  and 
a  free  Press  would  have  completed  the  project  by  disseminating  the  prin- 
ciples of  freedom  to  every  nook  and  corner  of  the  country.  Instead  of 
this,  however,  the  mass  of  good  and  educated  men — unaided  by  liberal 
example  from  the  Government — found  it  impossible  to  unleaven  the  mob 
of  Spanish  monarchism,  or,  to  teach  it  to  govern  itself.  Party  spirit 
began  to  rage  without  stint  and  for  feigned  objects.  The  contest  was  be- 
tween the  possessors  of  power  and  the  aspirants.  The  Yorkinos  repre- 
sented or  pretended  to  represent  the  republican  or  advance  party.  The 
Escossaises — the  aristocratic,  or  antagonists  of  a  too  liberal  grant  of  popu- 
lar rights  and  privileges.  In  this  manner  the  whole  country  has  been 
converted,  by  turns  for  twenty  years,  into  a  camp  or  battle-field.  The  army 
(without  a  foreign  war,)  is  regarded  as  a  separate  body,  created  and  sup- 
ported— not  to  guard  the  nation  against  invading  enemies — but  to  protect 
the  Government  against  the  people ;  and  the  church,  in  the  meanwhile, 
naturally  leans  in  favor  of  that  powerful  support  which  preserves  its  pro- 
perty and  its  Orders. 

A  long  continued  disturbance  of  the  nation,  like  this,  has  of  course 
checked  industry  and  prevented  emigration  from  abroad.  It  has  made 
agriculture  but  a  menial  toil ; — it  has  created  an  aristocracy  of  arms  and 
spmtual  power ; — it  has  covered  the  people  with  foreign  debt  and  domes- 
tic embarrassment ; — it  has  taught  the  masses  to  permit  control  and  to 
lose  independence  ; — it  has  forced  the  Government  to  mortgage  every  re- 
source at  ruinous  interest ; — it  has  fostered  the  most  extensive  political 
corruption  that  ever  beggared  a  nation,  and  has  afforded  an  opportunity, 
amid  all  this  turmoil,  to  successive  bands  of  ambitious  plunderers  to  grow 
rich  on  the  public  spoil. 

The  lesson  of  chicanery  and  corruption  taught  to  its  colony  b}^  old 
Spain, — through  her  injustice  and  oppression, — became  a  principle  of  ac- 
tion, and  duplicity  was  raised  to  the  rank  of  a  virtue. 


348  MEXICO. 

Nations,  habituated  to  be  ruled  for  centuries,  cannot  rule  themselves  in 
a  minute.  People  must  learn  to  think  for  themselves,  and,  in  order  to  do 
so,  must  be  instructed.  Agriculture  must  be  cherished,  and  farmers  made 
to  elevate  themselves  in  society ; — to  become  rich  by  their  toil,  and  culti- 
vated by  study.  The  mechanical  class  must  become  ambitious  of  being 
something  more  than  the  mere  servant  of  the  capitalist's  wants; — in  fine, 
all  classes  must  shake  off  that  lethargy,  which,  arising  either  from  old 
habits,  or  an  enervating  climate,  makes  them  the  servants  of  the  passing 
hour,  and  content  with  bare  existence. 

As  the  agriculture  of  the  country  is  chiefly  in  the  hands  of  rich  pro- 
prietors and  of  the  church,  that  branch  of  independence  has  no  general 
influence.  The  mass  of  the  mechanical  class  is  exceedingly  poor,  and 
indescribably  ignorant ;  and  large  portions  of  other  classes  are  avaricious, 
gambling  and  bigoted,  while  over  all  extends  that  spiritual  power,  which 
still  exercises  an  influence  little  inferior  to  the  army. 

Such  a  population, — ignorant,  poor  and  servile, — cares  but  little  for 
politics ;  and  it  is  a  mercy  to  rule  them  wisely  and  justly.  If  wages 
are  good,  and  crops  plentiful,  the  farmer  and  mechanic  are  contented, 
provided  the  taxes  are  not  high.  In  a  soil  which  yields  so  readily  and 
abundantly,  and  a  temperature  so  genial,  men  are  naturally  indolent.  It 
is  easier,  thus  provided  with  the  necessaries  of  life,  to  be  governed  than 
to  govern, — especially,  if  they  do  not  feel  the  pressure  of  the  crown,  or 
the  blows  of  the  sceptre.  They  are,  therefore,  docile,  quiet,  and  ready 
to  pass  from  one  chief  to  another  without  inquiry.  In  addition  to  this,  it 
should  always  be  remembered,  that  Mexico  is  of  all  civilized  countries 
perhaps  the  least  accessible,  both  from  abroad  and  in  its  interior.  Its 
coasts  ravaged  by  dangerous  fevers ;  its  territory  piled  up  on  an  isthmus 
between  two  great  Continents  on  the  north  and  south,  and  two  great  oceans  on 
the  east  and  west.  It  m^y  be  literally  called  a  nation  hanging  on  the  sides 
of  a  mountain ;  the  Atlantic  thundering  at  its  base  on  the  one  side,  and 
the  Pacific  on  the  other  ;  without  steamers,  railways,  or  means  for  the 
easy  transmission  of  papers — by  which  not  only  the  news  of  the  day  and 
of  the  whole  world  may  be  transmitted  to  every  cabin  of  its  forests ; 
but  by  which  the  people  themselves  may  travel,  easily  and  cheaply,  and 
thus  become  knit  together  by  friendship,  kindred,  and  kindly  intercourse. 
It  is  an  affair  of  as  much  importance  to  make  a  journey  of  a  hundred 
miles,*  as  it  was  with  us  during  the  Revolution  ;  for  not  only  are  they 
obliged  to  travel  in  slow  coaches,  over  bad  roads  on  mules  and  horses, 
but  they  must  be  accompanied  by  a  horde  of  servants  and  sumpter  ani- 
mals, a  mountain  of  bedding,  baggage  and  cooking  utensils,  and,  besides, 
be  guarded  for  fear  of  the  robbers  !  Thus,  while  there  is  no  extensive  in- 
tercommunication, there  is  less  perhaps  from  abroad  ;  and,  of  course,  the 
opinions  of  Europe  and  America  can  have  but  little  influence  on  a  nation 

'  Last  year  only  eleven  hundred  and  nine  persons  arrived  as  passengers  at  Vera  Cruz,  and  four  hundred  and 
fifty-nine  left  that  port,  so  tliat  the  average  of  population  by  emigration,  was  only  six  hundred  and  fourteen 
through  that  city. 


CAUSES    OF    NATIONAL    ADVERSITY.  349 

so  imprisoned,  both  by  the  nature  of  its  territory,  and  its  own  mismanage- 
ment. 

I  have  thus  spoken  of  some  of  the  causes  of  Mexican  adversity  ;  let 
me  go  further.  It  has  been  a  difficult  thing  to  make  the  Mexicans  believe 
that  they  possessed  any  other  kind  of  wealth  but  money  or  mines.  It  was 
difficult  to  make  them  understand  that  they  were  poor,  in  the  midst  of  gold 
and  silver,  and  that  the  wealthiest  nations  were  England  and  Holland, 
the  one  without  a  precious  mine  in  her  soil,  the  other  redeemed  from  the 
washes  of  the  sea. 

In  1833,  they  were  at  the  expense  of  $17,000,000  for  their  army,  and 
in  1841,  of  $8,000,000,  with  only  between  seven  and  eight  millions  of 
people,  and  no  foreign  war  ;  and  while  they  were  furnishing  from  their  mines 
the  circulating  medium  of  the  world,  they  thought  themselves  exceedingly 
successful,  if  they  could  borrow  money  at  an  interest  of  fifty  or  even  sixty 
per  cent. 

Again,  by  the  reduction  of  the  export  duty,  on  the  precious  metals, 
to  three  per  cent.,  and  the  lax  administration  of  the  Custom  Houses 
in  the  year  from  1821  to  1822,  $66,000,000  passed  through  the  ports 
regularly  to  foreign  nations — besides  what  was  secretly  taken  from  the 
country — which  was  thus  depleted,  in  one  twelvemonth,  of  a  mass  of  wealth 
that  would  have  assured  it  prosperity  for  years.  The  consequence  was 
a  paper  money  system,  that  soon  lost  its  credit,  and  produced  the  most 
disastrous  results. 

Again,  they  allowed  no  liberty  of  worship.  They  forbade  foreigners 
to  acquire  real  estate  or  freehold  interests  of  any  kind ; — they  clogged 
their  naturalization  laws  with  odious  incumbrances  to  emigrants  ; — they 
threw  a  thousand  obstacles  in  the  way  of  the  marriage  and  even  burial 
of  foreigners; — and,  as  to  the  "protection"  afforded  by  their  tribunals,  it 
was  too  notoriously  infamous  to  be  patiently  spoken  of. 

Again,  after  severe  losses  by  the  export  of  the  precious  metals,  a 
short-sighted  policy  was  adopted  by  legislators  in  regard  to  commerce. 
With  fair  promises  and  plausible  declarations,  they  professed  a  spirit  of 
"  free  trade,"  while,  at  the  same  moment,  there  was  no  invention  that 
ingenuity  could  devise,  which  they  did  not  throw  in  the  way  of  mer- 
chants. They  commenced  the  prohibitory  system.  They  imposed  duties 
to  the  amount  of  double  or  triple  the  value  of  imports,  allowing 
but  short  indulgence  on  the  bonds ;  and  the  result  was,  that  there  were 
no  cash  sales.  This  .operated  as  a  direct  bounty  in  favor  of  contraband, 
not  only  in  the  importation  of  merchandise,  but  in  the  export  of  silver ;  at 
the  same  time  that  by  these  high  duties  the  people  were  indirectly  taxed 
to  an  exorbitant  degree,  and  the  nation  was  deprived  of  a  large  revenue, 
which  she  might  have  derived  from  moderate  levies  that  would  not  have 
tempted  to  illicit  trade. 

We  are  taught  to  regard  this  as  an  era  of  regeneration  in  the  Govern- 
ment of  Mexico. 


350  MEXICO. 

General  Santa  Anna  was  the  individual  who  struck  the  first  blow 
against  the  power  of  Iturbede,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  his  heart  has  not 
grown  cold  to  liberty  as  it  has  grown  in  years. 

Now,  although  it  is  true  that  the  people  are  usually  but  slightly  inte- 
rested in  the  pronuncimicntos  ;  (which  are  made  by  regiments  or  officers  of 
the  army.)  yet,  I  believe  that  the  ententes  of  1841  were  decidedly  popular 
with  the  masses,  and  chiefly  so,  on  account  of  an  internal  consumption 
duty,  which  they  found  extremely  onerous.  It  must  be  said,  in  justice  to 
Bustamante  and  his  cabinet,  that  they  too  were  opposed  to  it;  but  find- 
ing Congress  resolved  to  continue  its  enforcement,  they  felt  bound  to  sus- 
tain the  law  as  long  as  they  were  its  ministers  under  a  Constitution. 

At  the  outset  of  his  administration,  in  September,  1841,  Santa  Anna 
had  the  most  extraordinary  difficulties  to  contend  with.  An  army  of  near 
thirty  thousand  men  was  on  foot,  and  to  be  maintained  ; — the  officers  of 
the  Government  were  extremely  numerous,  and  to  be  paid  ; — there  were 
dissensions  among  his  troops,  and  jealousy  of  his  power  ; — the  whole 
country  was  in  a  political  ferment ; — the  copper  currency  (the  only  cur- 
rency of  the  masses,)  was  depreciated  more  than  fifty  per  cent.  ; — and, 
to  crown  the  catalogue  of  misfortunes,  when  he  entered  the  Palace  there 
was  not  a  single  dollar  in  the  Treasury  ! 

Still,  he  was  unappalled  by  these  amazing  difficulties.  He  supported 
his  army,  paid  his  clerks,  quelled  all  dissensions  among  the  troops  and 
officers,  pacified  the  country,  called  in  the  copper  coin  and  issued 
new,  dispersed  a  Congress  whose  Constitution  he  disliked — and,  for 
more  than  two  years,  has  held  the  Supreme  power  of  his  country  in  de- 
fiance of  rebellious  chiefs  and  angry  demagogues.  Nor  were  his  efforts 
confined  to  his  domestic  relations  alone,  during  this  stormy  period.  By 
his  skill  and  energy  he  managed  to  avert  the  horrors  of  a  foreign  war, 
and  to  preserve  amicable  intercourse  with  all  those  powers  to  whom 
Mexico  bears  the  relation  of  a  debtor. 

Having  thus  passed  the  most  trying  portion  of  his  administration,  and 
established  a  system  of  government  which  can  scarcely  be  called  consti- 
tutional, it  is  his  first  duty  to  administer  that  government  with  a  strong 
but  patriotic  arm.  He  must  insure  peace  to  his  country  at  all  hazards, — 
even  if  that  peace  be  effected  by  despotism.  He  must  end,  for  ever,  that 
rebellious  spirit  in  the  army,  which  is  so  easily  excited  by  every  ambi- 
tious leader  who  obtains  a  momentary  influence,  and  embroils  the  whole 
nation  in  order  to  elevate  him  to  power. 

Foreigners,  who  are  ignorant  of  the  trials  and  turbulence  by  which  he 
is  surrounded,  and  the  efforts  that  are  often  made  in  Mexico  to  defeat  the 
most  patriotic  intentions,  may  call  him  a  tyrant ;  but  it  is,  nevertheless,  his 
duty  to  persevere  enduringly  until  he  establishes  permanent  tranquillity, 
under  which  alone  his  country  can  advance. 


DISTRIBUTION    OF    CHURCH    PROPERTY.       351 

There  is  one  thing  which.  I  confess,  I  desire  particularly  to  see  Gene- 
ral Santa  Anna  effect ;  and  that  is,  an  act  for  which  the  reign  of  Henry 
VIH.  is  chiefly  commendable.  I  mean  the  seizure  and  distribution  of  the 
church  property. 

It  is  true,  that  the  President  may  have  yet  to  fear  a  power  which 
the  brotherhood  possess,  not  only  over  the  common  people,  but  over  the 
very  common  materials  of  which  the  army  is  composed ; — but  dangerous 
diseases  require  dangerous  remedies,  and  a  bold  and  trustful  hand  to  apply 
them.  Henry  VIII.  did  this  in  an  essentially  Catholic  country  and  in  a 
most  superstitious  age,  and  it  has  been  recently  effected  in  Spain  and 
Havannah.  In  order  to  effect  this  object,  successfully,  and  in  the  most 
beneficial  manner,  not  only  to  the  church  but  to  the  mass  of  the  people, 
it  would  be  well  for  him,  in  his  present  increase  of  the  army,  to  press 
into  the  service  every  idler,  vagabond  or  Upero,  with  which  the  city  and 
the  suburbs  swarm ;  and  after  due  drilling,  and  accustoming  them  to 
military  obedience,  to  colonize  these  troops  in  the  different  parts  of  the 
Republic,  giving,  as  bounties  for  their  services,  portions  of  the  estates 
now  held  by  the  priesthood,  reserving  the  rest  for  sale  at  moderate 
prices  to  the  Indians  who  labor  for  the  church.  In  doing  this  he  would 
benefit  the  nation  by  bringing  a  large  property  into  the  common  weal, 
and  by  giving  employment  to  thousands,  whose  utter  vagrancy  and  vaga- 
bondism are  unparalleled  in  any  other  part  of  the  world. 

The  territory  thus  acquired,  and  sold  or  distributed, — what  a  picture  of 
dawning  civilization  would  spread  over  the  land  !  The  half-starved  slaves 
of  the  church,  and  of  the  large  proprietors,  erected  suddenly  into  manli- 
ness, would  stand  up  feeling  that  they  were  truly  human,  and  a  speedy 
intellectual  progress  would  commence  with  the  acquirement  of  property. 

The  increased  productions  of  the  soil  would  naturally  require  new 
markets — markets  would  produce  new  roads — new  means  of  transporta- 
tion— new  inventions  of  agricultural  implements — new  wants  in  articles 
of  taste,  luxury  and  refinement.  Men  would  begin  to  travel  on  the  new 
roads.  Mexico  would  become  acquainted  with  herself.  The  idle  spirit 
created  by  lavish  productions  of  the  mines,  would  be  aroused  from  its 
lethargy.  There  would  be  a  gradual  infusion  of  foreign  blood,  making 
her  citizens  emulous  of  other  nations ;  and  thus,  in  a  few  years,  Mexico 
would  behold  her  own  ships  bearing  abroad  her  own  products — would 
learn  that  she  had  within  her  soil  other  sources  of  wealth  besides  her  ores 
— would  attract  back  some  of  the  millions  she  has  furnished  the  world  for 
the  last  three  hundred  years,  and,  in  fine,  become  in  every  respect  inde- 
pendent. 

These  are  beautiful  objects  to  present  for  a  patriot's  ambition.  If  he 
possesses  the  power  and  influence,  which  I  think  he  does,  Santa  Anna  can 
effect  all  this  if  he  lives,  for  he  has  talents  and  energy  competent  to  the 
task  ;  but  if  he  fails  and  assumes  the  Imperial  purple,  I  shall  be  as  mis- 
taken as  I  shall  feel  grieved  to  see  so  glorious  a  chance  for  a  splendid 
immortality  lost  by  a  hero. 


352  MEXICO. 

To  the  reorganization,  then,  of  his  country,  Santa  Anna  will,  I  believe, 
apply  himself  vigorously  and  he  must  remember,  that  although  the 
same  spirit  of  aristocracy;  and  democracy  were  at  work  in  the  United 
States  immediately  after  our  Revolution,  that  they  had  very  different  mate- 
rials to  operate  on.  Let  him  but  emulate  the  example  of  Washington, 
whose  government,  it  must  be  acknowledged,  was  a  strong  one,  during 
a  long  period  of  his  Presidency.  Our  Constitution  was  then  assailed  by 
many  perils.  The  inflammatory  appeals  of  Genet ;  the  bitterness  engen- 
dered by  Jay's  treaty ;  Congress  doubtful  of  its  powers ;  the  States  mutually 
distrustful;  agriculture  and  commerce  languishing;  and  an  anarchical 
spirit  disseminated  through  the  land  ! — Yet,  above  all  these  discords,  rose 
the  calm,  patient  and  patriotic  spirit  of  Washington,  triumphant ;  equally 
untemptcd  by  the  blandishments  of  power,  and  unquailing  before  the  dan- 
gerous assumption  of  authority.  He  knew  the  true  interests  of  the  people> 
and  working  for  them  alone,  confided  to  the  generous  heart  of  the  nation, 
to  interpret  his  acts  aright,  when  he  seemed  to  trench  on  the  Constitution. 
He  dared  to  take  an  unpopular  side,  and  thus  checked  Genet, — had  him 
recalled,  and  settled  the  French  interest  and  interference  for  ever.  He 
assured  peace  by  the  sanction  of  Jay's  treaty — and,  as  he  says  himself  in 
one  of  his  letters,  "  gave  our  country  time  to  settle  and  mature  its  yet 
recent  institutions,  and  to  progress,  without  interruption,  to  that  degree  of 
strength  and  consistency  which  is  necessary  to  give  it,  humanly  speaking, 
the  command  of  its  own  fortunes."  And  yet,  throughout  this  trial,  with 
what  malevolent  bitterness  was  he  assailed  even  by  the  people  he  had  just 
freed  !  Painful,  indeed,  is  power,  when  it  has  to  combat,  by  virtuous  and 
truly  patriotic  efforts,  the  prejudices,  errors,  and  selfishness  of  the  multi- 
tude for  which  it  toils  ! 

It  was  remarked  by  Mr.  Jefferson,  in  regard  to  our  country,  that  "  more 
than  a  generation  will  be  requisite,  under  the  administration  of  reasonable 
laws,  favoring  the  progress  of  knowledge  in  the  general  masses  of  the 
people,  and  their  habituation  to  an  independent  security  of  person  and 
property,  before  they  will  be  capable  of  estimating  the  value  of  freedom, 
and  the  necessity  of  a  sacred  adherence  to  the  principle  on  which  it  rests 
for  preservation.  Instead  of  that  liberty  which  takes  root  and  growth  in 
the  progress  of  reason,  if  recovered  by  mere  force  or  accident,  it  becomes 
with  an  unprepared  people — the  tyranny,  still,  of  the  many — of  the  few— 
of  the  one."* 

It  may  perhaps  be  improper  for  me,  after  so  short  a  residence  in  the 
country,  to  make  suggestions  as  to  the  mode  of  its  regeneration  ;  but  there 
are  many  obvious  improvements  which  must  strike  every  one,  and  which 
it  will  not  be  inappropriate  to  mention.  It  seems  to  me  to  be  absolutely 
necessary : — 

*  Letter  exxi. 


HER    PROPER    POLICY.  353 

1st.  To  establish  a  constitutional  Confederacy. 

2nd.  To  assure  the  people  of  the  permanency  of  that  institution,  and  of 
pacific  self-government. 

3rd.  To  encourage  emigration,  holding  out  inducements  to  foreigners, 
either  alluring  them  to  acquire  freehold  property,  or  such  title  to  real 
estate,  as  will  confer  upon  them  the  unquestionable  and  undisturbed  right 
to  the  soil  for  a  considerable  length  of  time. 

4th.  To  alter  the  tariff,  so  as  to  free  trade  from  many  of  the  ridiculous 
restrictions  that  impair  it,  and  allow  native  industry  to  take  its  direction 
from  wholesome  competition,  rather  than  dangerous  legislation. 

5th.  To  establish  a  universal  system  of  public  education. 

6th.  To  make  the  Press  entirely  free. 

7th.  To  distribute  the  church  lands  among  the  people,  or  to  put  them 
up  at  such  minimum  prices,  as  will  enable  all  classes  to  become  free- 
holders. 

8th.  Gradually  to  diminish  the  army,  and  colonize  it. 

9th.  To  destroy  the  corruption  of  Government  patronage,  and  purify  the 
Customs. 

10th.  To  restore  the  mining  interests,  and  reform  the  mint. 

11th.  To  purify  the  Judiciary,  and  cause  law  to  be  fairly  administered 
between  man  and  man. 

12th.  To  destroy  the  contraband  trade  entirely  :  and 

13th.  To  permit  religious  liberty. 

Of  all  these  improvements,  I  regard  the  encouragement  of  emigration 
as  the  most  essential,  after  the  establishment  and  assurance  of  peace 
and  religious  liberty.  Men  will  not  toil  to  get  rich,  merely  by  virtue  of 
acts  of  Congress.  It  requires  the  stimulus  of  example,  and  the  infusion 
of  a  new  and  energetic  blood  into  the  system. 

Nor  is  it  to  be  feared,  that  the  country  will  be  absorbed  at  once  by  for- 
eigners and  foreign  influence.  The  old  staid  Spanish  prejudice,  in  favor 
of  its  own  kindred,  must  be  overcome.  French,  Irish,  Dutch,  Germans, 
Spaniards,  Italians,  Russians,  Hebrews,  Greeks,  Norwegians,  Swedes, — 
all  find  representatives  in  our  population,  harmoniously  acting  together 
for  their  personal  advantages  and  the  prosperity  of  the  common  weal. 

Many  years  will  be  required  to  produce  adequate  confidence  in  Euro- 
peans and  North  Americans,  to  induce  them  to  emigrate  to  Mexico  for  the 
purpose  of  settlement.  They  have  had  too  hard  a  lesson  in  the  past,  to 
allow  them  to  plunge  into  Mexican  trade  and  territory  again,  notwith- 
standing the  temptation  of  the  country.  Emigration  will  be  by  gradual 
and  kindly  progress,  and  I  question  much  whether  the  feelings  or  the  lan- 
guage of  the  nation  will  be  changed.  It  will  be  a  melioration  of  lot, 
without  an  alteration  of  nature  ;  and  thus,  without  any  violent  disturbance 
of  the  tastes,  sympathies,  or  prejudices  of  the  old,  a  new  race  will  grow 
up  with  the  renewed  country,  regenerated  by  the  graft  of  foreign  stamina 
and' talent. 

23 


354  MEXICO. 

Mexico,  must  not,  however,  flatter  herself,  that  the  world  is  humbly  on 
its  knees  seeking  admittance  at  her  portal.  Not  so.  She  has  too  lon^ 
exhibited  the  picture  of  an  ill-regulated  and  quarrelsome  household  to 
tempt  mankind  to  become  her  inmates,  notwithstanding  the  allure- 
ments of  her  beauty.  I  do  not  believe  that  she  will  ever  advance  to  any 
degree  of  greatness,  without  foreign  emigration  to  her  shores  ;  yet,  in 
order  to  attract  an  influx  of  artisans  and  laborers,  ripe  from  the  improved 
fields  and  the  skillful  workshops  of  the  rest  of  the  world,  she  must  prove 
herself  worthy  of  their  advent  by  the  peaceful  and  prosperous  future  she 
promises  to  secure  them. 

If  Mexico,  however,  sees  fit  to  pursue  a  narrow  system  of  exclusion, 
akin  to  that  under  which  she  suffered  while  a  colony  of  Spain,  I  confess 
that  I  behold  but  little  prospect  for  her  future.  She  will  want  the  illustration 
of  example — the  virtue  of  emulation.  As  long  as  Santa  Anna  remains  at 
the  head  of  affairs,  and  is  able  to  retain  control  over  the  army  by  pay  or 
by  its  attachment  to  his  person, — so  long  will  that  remarkable  genius 
continue  to  preserve  tranquillity.  But  it  may  be  the  peace  of  dread, — 
the  subordination  of  fear, — the  muteness  of  slavery.  If,  in  the  meantime, 
he  chooses  to  bring  the  people  gradually  to  a  knowledge  of  their  rights 
and  a  habit  of  self-government,  while  he  destroys,  for  ever,  the  disturbers 
of  their  peace, — he  will  mingle  the  patriot's  with  the  hero's  wreath,  and 
deserve  a  high  place  in  the  story  of  this  Continent's  progress  to  glory. 

But  if,  on  the  other  hand,  he  is  seduced  by  the  possession  of  power  or 
only  continues  to  hold  it  for  despotism  and  plunder ; — if  the  result  of  his 
administration  is  unsuccessful,  and  those  who  came  into  authority  under 
solemn  pledges  to  purify  the  Government  shall  prove  false  to  their  trust ; — 
if  such  are  to  be  the  only  results  of  so  much  tumult  and  warfare,  the 
downfall  of  Mexico  is,  indeed,  close  at  hand  ! 

The  clouds  of  rebellion  which  have  so  long  lowered  over  the  country, 
will  descend  in  showers  of  blood, — and  a  war  of  retribution,  or,  of  castes, 
as  in  Guatemala,  must  end  the  circle,  and  give  up  again  the  fair  territory 
of  Mexico  to  the  tbrests  and  its  beasts  or  to  be  the  spoil  of  some  foreign 
invader. 

In  every  event,  her  fate  must  be  most  interesting  to  the  people  of  the 
United  States.  If  peace,  and  its  train  of  attendant  results,  are  to  bless 
her  with  success  and  happiness,  our  stake  and  sympathy  with  her  repub- 
lican system  must  be  great  and  enduring.  If  anarchy,  and  dismember- 
ment of  her  States  ensue,  we  will  be  burdened  with  a  dangerous  neigh- 
bor and  annoying  enemy.  But  if  foreign  occupation  be  attempted,  the 
bloody  war  that  must  ensue,  can  only  be  ended  by  the  expulsion  of  the 
intruder,  and  the  reestablishment  of  republicanism  on  this  Continent. 


RETURN    HOME.  355 


CONCLUSION. 

On  the  9th  of  November,  1842,  I  left  the  Capital  in  the  diligence,  ac- 
companied by  Mr.  Peyton  Southall  bearing  dispatches  to  our  Govern- 
ment. We  had  secured  the  attendance  of  a  strong  guard,  and  found 
three  or  four  Englishmen  in  the  coach  as  well  accoutred  as  ourselves. 

I  was  greatly  struck  with  the  change  that  had  been  effected  in  every, 
thing  during  the  last  year.  The  road  was  in  excellent  order ; — the  ruts 
in  the  mountain  sides  had  been  filled  and  levelled  ; — the  inns  were  re- 
fitted and  neatly  kept ; — the  villages  along  the  way-side  had  been  cleaned 
and  painted,  and  scarcely  a  vestige  remained  of  the  misery  and  desola- 
tion that  oppressed  me  on  my  arrival. 

On  the  11th,  at  sunset,  we  passed  through  Plan  del  Rio, — supped  at 
Puente  Nacional, — and,  at  daylight  on  the  12th,  (precisely  a  year  from 
the  date  of  my  arrival,)  again  reached  "  La  Villa  rica  de  la  Vera  Cruz." 

After  a  delay  of  a  day  or  two  we  embarked  on  board  the  U.  S.  Steamer 
Missouri.  On  the  20th,  we  reached  the  southwest  pass  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, and  once  more  hailed  with  pleasure  our  native  shores. 

I  only  repeat  the  sentiment  of  almost  every  traveller  in  the  beautiful 
country  I  have  been  describing,  when  I  say, — that  no  matter  how  impatient 
we  may  be  to  leave  Mexico,  yet,  when  her  'frontier  has  been  passed,  per- 
haps for  ever,  there  are  few  who  do  not  long  to  enjoy  once  more  her 
cloudless  skies,  her  bountiful  soil,,  and  her  eternal  spring  I 


THE     END, 
23* 


APPENDIX. 

No.    1. 

A  SUPPLEMENTARY  LETTER  ON  THE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS,  THE  CA- 
LIFORNIAS,  AND  THE  FOREIGN  POLICY  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES 
IN  REGARD  TO  THE  ENCROACHMENTS  OF  ENGLAND. 


If  there  is  anything  that  peculiarly  distinguishes  the  statesmanship  of  England, 
it  is  the  prospective  wisdom  with  which  its  Ministers  (while  guarding  the  mo- 
mentary interests  at  home,)  seek  new  vents  for  the  labor  of  its  population,  and  for 
the  surplus  of  that  population,  also,  when  it  becomes  too  crowded  within  the  limits 
of  the  British  Islands.  It  is  the  want  of  this  vigilant  policy  that  peculiarly  char- 
acterizes our  own  country.  In  the  midst  of  a  vast  territory,  with  ample  room  for 
the  expansion  of  our  inhabitants  for  hundreds  of  years,  we  are  careless  of  the 
future,  and  we  do  not  look  with  wariness  to  those  geographical  points  of  vantage 
around  the  earth  of  which  England  is  gradually  possessing  herself,  for  the  exten- 
sion and  guardianship  of  her  commercial  interests.  We  thus  permit  a  grasping 
and  ambitious  rival  to  monopolize  positions  which,  if  they  do  not  directly  affect 
the  people  of  our  own  generation,  cannot  fail,  especially  in  the  event  of  war,  to 
injure  and  annoy  our  posterity. 

We  have  seen  Great  Britain  add  Affghanistan,  Scinde,  and  the  Chinese  Empire, 
to  her  control  within  the  last  two  years ;  at  the  same  time  fixing  her  power 
steadily  in  Canada,  by  the  suppression  of  every  symptom  of  rebellious  spirit.  We 
have  seen  her  firmly  planted  within  her  fortresses  at  Bermuda,  establishing  her- 
self at  the  Balize,  and  encroaching  on  Guatemala  ;  we  have  seen  her  holding  the 
key  of  the  Mediterranean  at  Gibraltar,  and  the  power  of  the  Straits  at  Malta  and 
the  Ionian  Isles ;  we  find  her  in  the  southern  Atlantic,  at  St.  Helena,  and  in  the 
Indian  Seas  at  numberless  islands  ;  and  we  learn  that  she  at  last  pounced,  with- 
out warning,  on  the  Hawaiian  group,  with  the  same  spirit  that  animated  her  con- 
quests in  China,  (although  she  has  since  officially  disavowed  the  acts  of  her  offi- 
cer.) Britain  has  thus  encircled  the  globe  with  her  power,  and  in  this  greedy  acqui- 
sition of  territory,  and  prudent  husbandry  of  resources,  our  Statesmen  should 
at  least  perceive  a  warning  of  danger  from  a  bold  and  ambitious  rival,  if  they  do 
not  learn  a  lesson  which,  under  similar  circumstances,  they  would  be  studious  to 
emulate. 

The  temper  of  our  Republic  is  entirely  too  much  devoted  to  the  interests  of  the 
passing  day.  We  writhe  under  debt,  and  we  rush  into  repudiation.  We  suffer 
under  financial  distress,  and  we  adopt  some  palliative  expedient  that  saves  us  from 
momentary  ruin.  We  dislike  the  policy  of  the  hour,  and  we  attribute  it  exclu- 
sively to  Executive  misrule  ;  and  the  continual  distractions  of  the  whole  scheme 
of  our  popular  government  seem  but  to  nourish  an  unceasing  nervousness  as  to 
who  is  to  rule,  and  who  to  control  the  national  patronage.  This  spirit  is  creating 
a  vacillating  system,  which,  in  the  end,  must  become  nationally  characteristic.    If 


358  APPENDIX 

persisted  in,  it  will  destroy  all  stability  of  purpose  and  extended  aim  of  statesman- 
ship ;  and,  while  it  generates  a  class  who  are  willing  to  become  pliant  tools  of 
power  in  return  for  official  emolument,  it  will  ultimately  affect  the  hopes  and  the 
enterprise  of  all  those  industrious  citizens  who  are  willing  to  labor  and  amass 
wealth  by  a  slow,  but  safe  course  of  national  policy,  wisely  adopted  and  steadily 
pursued.        * 

It  was  not  my  purpose,  however,  to  address  you  a  homily  on  national  politics 
when  I  commenced  this  letter  ;  but  I  thought  these  remarks  altogether  proper,  as 
introductory  to  some  account  of  the  character,  situation,  and  resources  of  the 
Hawaiian  Islands  and  the  Californias,  in  connection  with  the  observations  I  design 
making  upon  our  wide-spread  interests  in  the  Pacific,  the  Indian  Seas,  and  the 
Western  Coast  of  the  Americas,  and  the  encroachments  of  England. 

I  will  proceed,  then,  without  further  preface,  to  offer  some  notices  of  the  Sand- 
wich Islands,  and  afterward  of  the  Californias,  showing  their  great  importance,  at 
least,  to  the  trade  of  our  country. 

The  eight  Hawaiian  Islands  form  a  volcanic  group  in  the  Pacific,  lying  between 
18°  50'  and  22o  20'  N.  latitude,  and  154o  53'  and  160°  15'  W.  longitude,  embracing 
a  surface  of  rather  more  than  six  thousand  square  miles,  of  which  the  Island  of 
Hawaii  contains  about  four  thousand.  The  whole  population  is  estimated  at  one 
hundred  and  nine  thousand,  and  although  the  soil  is  in  many  places  not  of  a  kindly 
character,  and  better  adapted  to  grazing  than  agriculture,  yet,  in  the  upland  valleys, 
there  are  extensive  patches  of  rich  land  that  may  be  easily  cultivated,  and  capable 
of  producing  two  crops  of  wheat  annually.  This,  however,  is  all  the  better  for  the 
natives,  as  the  comparative  poverty  of  the  earth  requires  the  constant  care  of  the 
laborer,  and  is,  therefore,  more  likely  to  create  an  industrious  class  than  in  more 
prolific  climates. 

On  the  low  grounds,  coffee,  sugar,  tobacco,  cotton,  mulberry  and  cocoa,  may  be 
readily  produced  ;  and  to  these  may  be  added,  yams,  potatoes,  cocoanuts,  bread- 
fruit, arrow-root,  the  kalo,  or  aurum  esculenlum ;  and  among  fruits,  the  strawberry, 
raspberry,  ohelo,  melons,  chirimoyas,  limes,  oranges,  guyavas,  pine-apples,  grapes, 
peaches,  figs,  citrons,  tamarinds  and  kalo.  Oil  may  be  easily  extracted  from  the 
nut  of  the  kukui  tree. 

In  former  times,  one  of  the  chief  productions  of  these  Islands  was  sandal- wood, 
with  which  the  forests  abounded.  In  the  year  ending  in  March,  1832,  three 
hundred  and  ninety-five  tuns  of  this  article,  valued  at  seventy-four  thousand  four 
hundred  and  seventy-one  dollars,  were  imported  into  China  from  various  places. 
In  1816  it  was  the  chief  source  of  revenue,  and  became,  also,  the  chief  source  of 
the  demoralization  of  this  group.  In  that  year,  four  hundred  thousand  dollars 
worth  was  exported  to  the  Indies,  where  it  was  used  by  the  Hindoos  in  their  reli- 
gious ceremonials,  and  by  the  Chinese  in  various  manufactures  of  articles  of 
luxury  and  taste.  So  great,  however,  was  the  demand,  and  so  easily  satisfied  in  t  he 
forests  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  that  the  natives  were  tempted  by  a  ready  sale  to 
destroy  almost  every  tree ;  until,  under  a  wiser  administration  of  their  interests,  they 
entirely  forbade  the  cutting  of  the  timber.  The  wood  is  represented  as  again  bo- 
ginning  to  flourish ;  so  that,  in  the  course  of  a  few  years,  it  will  be  made  once 
more  a  source  of  fruitful  revenue. 

Besides  the  sandal-wood,  a  number  of  other  richly-veined  woods  are  found,  and 
are  said  to  be  as  valuable  for  articles  of  furniture,  as  the  choicest  products  of  the  Bra- 
zilian forests. 


APPENDIX.  359 

Game,  poultry,  wild  goats  and  hogs,  fish  and  wild  fowl,  are  to  be  had  in  abund- 
ance ;  and,  although  horses  have  been  brought  in  numbers  from  the  West  Coast, 
yet  they  always  command  a  high  price  and  are  greatly  valued.  There  are  no  ser- 
pents, and  but  few  insects ;  and,  while  in  the  interior  any  temperature  may  be 
gained  by  gradual  elevation,  even  to  constant  snow ; — on  the  coast  the  thermometer 
averages  about  79°  Fahrenheit,  and  the  climate  is  so  salubrious,  equal  and  mild, 
that,  in  the  native  language,  "  there  is  no  word  to  express  the  general  idea  of 
weather." 

The  chief  harbor  is  at  Honolulu ;  and  the  following  Table  will  afford  you  some 
idea  of  the  extent  of  the  commerce  of  the  Island  previous  to  1832.  In  1823,  from 
forty  to  sixty  whalers,  mostly  American,  were  to  be  seen  in  the  Isles  at  one  time  ; 
and  the  trade  in  sandal- wood  was  carried  on  briskly. 

STATEMENT 

Of  the  number  of  ships  that  touched  at  Woahoo,  one  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  during 
the  eight  years  ending  with  1831,  distinguishing  between  English  and  American, 
and  between  Whale  and  Merchant  ships. 


ENGLISH, 

Years. 

Whalers. 

Merchant. 

Total. 

Ships. 

Tuns. 

Ships. 

Tuns. 

Ships. 

Tuns. 

1824 

15 

5,798 

2 

500 

17 

6,298 

1825 

18 

7,765 

2 

400 

20 

8,165 

1826 

11 

4,854 

2 

410 

13 

5,264 

1827 

16 

6,505 

2 

334 

18 

6,839 

1828 

26 

9,772 

5 

391 

31 

10,663 

1829 

21 

8,172 

6 

1,199 

27 

9,371 

1830 

16 

6,982 

10 

1,693 

26 

8,675 

1831 

23 

8,567 

7 
AMERICAS 

1,292 

r. 

30 

9,859 

1824 

50 

15,688 

16 

3,1C3 

66 

18,851 

1825 

37 

11,539 

19 

4,077 

56 

15,616 

1826 

67 

21,892 

21 

3,996 

88 

25,888 

1827 

66 

21,261 

16 

3,693 

82 

24,954 

1828 

9G 

31,188 

26 

5,841 

116 

37,029 

1829 

87 

31,087 

21 

5,210 

108 

36,297 

1830 

77 

26,860 

23 

4,072 

100 

30,932 

1831 

58 

21,560 

25 

5,488 

83 

26,148 

UNDER  OTHER  FOEEIGN  FLAGS. 

Total. 

Ships. 

Tuns. 

Ships. 

Tuns. 

1824 

5 

1,330 

88 

26,479 

1825 

3 

950 

79 

24,731 

1826 

6 

1,112 

107 

32,264 

- 

1827 

7 

1,721 

107 

33,514 

1828 

8 

2,313 

155 

50,005 

1829 

4 

1,003 

139 

46,671 

1830 

3 

512 

129 

40,122 

1831 

5 

1,172 

118 

37,179 

From  1836  to  1841,  not  less  than  three  hundred  and  fifty-eight  vessels  belong 
ing  to  the  United  States,  chiefly  whalers,  arrived  at  Honolulu,  each  of  them 
expending,  on  an  average,  from  six  hundred  to  seven  hundred  dollars.     During 


360  APPENDIX. 

the  same  period,  seventeen  vessels  of  war  of  our  country  also  visited  the  Islands, 
and  in  this  number  is  included  the  Exploring  Expedition,  which  made  extensive 
observations  in  Science  and  Natural  History  among  the  group. 

In  the  same  five  years  there  were  only  eighty-two  English  vessels,  also  mostly 
whalers,  and  nine  men  of  war;  seven  French  merchantmen,  and  five  men  of  war ; 
and  a  few  scattering  vessels  from  Mexico,  Chili,  Tahiti,  Sydney,  China,  Russia 
and  Prussia.  At  the  port  of  Lahaina,  the  average  annual  number  of  our  whalers 
is  from  thirty  to  fifty,  and  from  twelve  to  twenty  in  the  rest  of  the  ports. 

The  Imports  for  four  and  a  half  years  previous  to  the  12th  of  September,  1840, 
are  stated  in  "  The  Polynesian"  to  have  been  $1,567,000,  of  which  $742,000 
were  from  the  United  States. 

The  Exports  for  the  same  period  were  $1,388,100,  of  which  $65,000  were  in 
sandal-wood,  $59,500  in  hides,  and  the  balance  in  goat-skins,  salt,  and  sugar. 
During  the  same  time  ten  vessels  were  owned  by  residents,  of  which  seven  were 
the  property  of  our  citizens,  and  three  of  Englishmen. 

I  have  derived  from  Mr.  Jarves's  excellent  work  on  these  Islands,  published 
last  February,  in  Boston,  the  substance  of  the  following  statistics  : 

He  estimates  the  value  of  American  property  touching  annually  at  Honolulu, 
including  the  outfits  of  whalers,  at  the  lowest  possible  calculation,  to  be  $1,200,- 
000.  If  to  this  be  added  the  cargoes  of  oil,  &c,  the  amount  would  unquestionably 
be  swelled  to  at  least  $4,000,000.  More  than  two  thousand  seamen  navigate  our 
vessels,  exclusive  of  those  employed  on  board  of  our  national  ships,  and  to  the 
above  sums  we  should  join  the  value  of  the  latter  vessels,  when  estimating  the 
American  property  which  owes  its  security  and  protection  to  the  harbors  of  these 
Islands.  The  value  of  the  property  of  other  nations  is  of  course  in  proportion  to 
their  shipping  ;  but  it  may  safely  be  stated,  that  the  interests  of  the  United  States 
are  four  times  greater  than  those  of  England,  and  that  the  importations  are  in  the 
same  ratio. 

IMPORTS  FROM  1836  TO  1841. 

From  the  United  States, $935,000 

"  England, 127,600 

"  California. 282,700 

"  China, 233,990 

"  Mexico,  (specie  and  bullion,) 167,600 

«  Chili, 160,000 

"  Various  countries, 127,300 

$2,034,190 
EXPORTS  DURING  THE  SAME  PERIOD. 

Sandal-wood, $65,000 

Hides, 90,000 

Goat-skins 27,240 

Sugar 34,000 

Molasses, 17,130 

Arrow-root,       .-.-.------  5,820 

Salt, 20,000 

Sperm-oil,  (vessels  from  Honolulu)     -..---  13,900 

Sundries,  supplies  to  shipping,  &c 275,000 

3,000 


APPENDIX.  361 

It  must  be  recollected,  that  large  amounts  of  the  imports  were  purchased  for 
reshipment,  from  this  central  position,  or  entre-depot,  to  California,  the  Russian 
settlements,  and  the  Southern  Islands. 

There  are  sixty  families  of  Americans,  including  the  missions,  on  the  Islands, 
and  about  an  equal  number  formed  by  intermarriage  with  the  natives.  The 
Americans  exceed,  by  several  hundreds,  all  other  foreigners,  the  most  numerous 
of  whom  are  English  and  Chinese.  The  cost  valuation  of  our  citizens'  property, 
in  buildings,  furniture,  &c,  cannot  be  less  than  one  hundred  thousand  dollars ; 
while  the  whole  amount  invested  in  permanent  improvements,  agriculture,  ves- 
sels, and  stock  in  trade,  is  certainly  over  one  million.  In  1836,  it  was  rated  at 
but  four  hundred  thousand  dollars,  and  the  property  of  other  foreigners  at  one- 
fifth. 

When  the  first  missionaries  arrived  in  these  Islands,  in  1820,  they  found  an 
idle,  vicious,  profligate  population  ;  a  nation  given  up  to  sensuality,  lying,  drunk- 
enness, riot,  treachery,  lewdness,  and  murder  ;  men  with  whom  retaliation  signi- 
fied justice,  and  who  retained,  amid  their  moral  ruin,  but  a  single  virtue,  and  that 
one  the  stoic  power  of  endurance,  derived  from  listlessness  and  an  utter  disregard 
of  life. 

But  under  the  management  of  the  judicious  persons  who  were  sent  out  to  these 
Islands,  the  whole  aspect  of  affairs  has  been  changed.  Amid  the  taunts  of  care- 
less visitors,  and  the  immoral  interference  of  many  whose  pride  it  should  have 
been  to  rebuke  a  spirit  of  disorder,  and  to  encourage  the  missionaries  in  their 
noble  labors,  they  have  persevered  in  the  foundation  of  a  Christian  Church,  and 
the  formation  of  a  Government,  which,  "  if  left  to  itself,  and  treated  by  other  nations 
with  justice  and  courtesy,  is  fully  competent  to  discharge  all  its  relations,  not  only 
for  the  maintenance  of  its  own  internal  peace,  and  the  security  of  person  and 
property  to  all  who  visit  its  shores,  but  to  conform  to  all  the  settled  principles  of 
international  law." 

The  missionaries  have  overcome  a  multitude  of  difficulties.  They  have 
almost  blotted  out  the  vices  that  characterized  the  Islands,  at  their  advent.  They 
found  intoxicating  liquors  forced  on  the  natives  by  the  French  Government, 
through  the  hostile  intervention  of  its  navy,  and  they  put  down  intemperance  by 
the  moral  power  of  societies.  They  met  the  introduction  of  a  different  sect  by 
additional  zeal.  They  found  a  people  grossly  ignorant,  and  they  taught  them  the 
wisdom  of  other  nations.  They  found  a  band  of  savages,  with  a  rich  soil,  fierce 
tempers,  and  abandoned  habits  ;  and  they  have,  while  civilizing  the  people  and 
bringing  them  into  the  folds  of  Christianity,  taught  them  the  value  of  their  lands, 
the  dignity  and  usefulness  of  commerce  and  labor,  and  the  excellence  of  virtue. 
After  twenty  years  of  missionary  labor,  one  of  these  gentlemen  was  called  on  to 
deliver  a  course  of  lectures  on  political  science,  and  the  result  was  a  Constitution 
and  a  Code  of  Laws — regulating  every  department  of  an  organized  Government  on 
a  plan  as  near  as  wisdom  would  allow  the  adoption  of  our  system  among  a  people 
emerging  into  civilization.  Two  extensive  editions  of  the  Bible  have  been  dis- 
tributed over  the  Islands  ;  more  than  seventeen  thousand  Protestants  gather  in 
the  churches,  and  eighteen  thousand  children  are  educated  in  the  schools  ! 

Thus  silently,  and  almost  unknown  to  us,  away  in  those  distant  seas,  has  a 
nation  been  called  into  existence  by  a  few  Christian  teachers,  without  arms,  and 
by  moral  influences  alone.  Barbarous  idolatry,  and  brutal  sensuality,  have  been 
abandoned,  and  Christianity  and  civilization  have  taken  their  places.  The  com- 
mercial advantages  of  the  Islands  have,  at  the  same  time,  attracted  the  attention 


362  APPENDIX. 

of  our  enterprising  people,  and  while  they  have  formed  the  chief  resort  of  our 
whalers  and  our  navy  in  the  Pacific,  they  have  ministered  to  a  trade  more  exten- 
sive on  our  part  than  on  that  of  any  other  nation. 


THE    CALIFORNIAS. 

In  the  preceding  part  of  this  letter,  I  gave  you  some  account  of  the  Sandwich 
Islands,  their  trade  and  importance  to  our  Union ;  and  I  will  now  proceed  to 
present  some  notices  of  the  Californias,  with  the  view  of  drawing  your  attention 
to  certain  conclusions  to  which  I  have  come,  in  regard  to  American  interests  in 
the  Pacific. 

Lower  California,  although  discovered  in  1534  by  Grijalva,  was  almost  un- 
known for  more  than  a  hundred  years,  when  the  first  Jesuit  missionaries  com- 
menced their  labors  in  the  year  1683.  Salvatierra,  Ugarte  and  Piccoli,  with  the 
Virgin  for  their  patron,  attempted  the  conquest  with  arms,  and  by  moral  influ- 
ences ;  and  although  in  1786  fifteen  missionary  establishments  had  been  made, 
yet  the  whole  of  the  peninsula  seems  to  have  turned  out  barren  and  valueless  to 
trade,  except  so  far  as  the  Pearl-fishery  produced  a  very  considerable  revenue. 
In  1587,  according  to  Acosta,  six  hundred  and  ninety-seven  pounds  of  this  precious 
article  were  imported  into  Seville;  but  in  1831,  (the  latest  account  I  can  find  of 
any  authority,)  the  whole  fishery  had  dwindled  into  utter  insignificance.  There 
were  then  but  four  vessels  and  two  boats  engaged  in  it ;  and  the  two  hundred 
divers  who  manned  them,  obtained,  in  all,  but  eighty-eight  ounces  of  pearls, 
valued  at  little  more  than  thirteen  thousand  dollars. 

Upper  California,  however,  is  different  in  its  natural  characteristics.  No 
great  impression  was  made  on  it  by  the  missionaries  in  their  "  spiritual  conquest" 
until  1768.  Since  then  it  has  gradually  progressed,  (under  the  influence,  I  be- 
lieve, of  the  Franciscan  monks,)  until  twenty-one  missions  are  numbered  within 
its  limits,  and  twenty-three  thousand  and  twenty-five  Indians,  troops  and  Creoles, 
have  come  within  their  dominion,  of  which  number  only  about  five  thousand  are 
of  Spanish  extraction.  Each  of  these  missions  has  a  tract  assigned  to  it  of  fifteen 
miles  square ;  and  the  Indian  population,  gathered  from  the  neighboring  wander- 
ing tribes,  is  placed  within  its  boundaries,  under  vigilant  surveillance ;  worked, 
fed,  clothed,  taught  the  Christian  doctrine,  and  subjected  (according  to  Forbes,) 
to  an  absolute  slavery.  They  are  idle,  stupid,  pusillanimous,  sickly,  and  have 
made  no  progress,  either  in  the  arts  necessary  for  personal  comfort  or  of  national 
government. 

The  portion  of  Upper  California,  at  present  occupied  by  settlers  and  missions, 
is  about  five  hundred  English  miles  in  extent,  and  runs,  in  breadth,  from  the  sea 
to  the  first  ranges  of  hills  on  the  west.  The  area  of  this  occupied  land  is  about 
thirteen  millions  of  acres,  forming  but  an  insignificant  portion  of  the  whole  terri- 
tory, which,  in  "  superficial  extent,  is  equal  to  many  of  the  most  extensive  king- 
doms of  Europe."  Beyond  the  western  hills,  about  forty  miles  from  the  sea,  the 
country  is  a  wilderness,  held  by  scattered  tribes,  but  little  known  and  seldom 
visited. 

But  all  the  explorers  who  have  visited  California,  describe  it  as  a  magnifi- 
cent country.  The  territory  behind  the  highlands  is  "  reckoned  superior  to  the 
coast,  and  is  said  to  consist  of  plains,  lakes,  and  hills,  beautifully  diversified,  and 
of  the  greatest  natural  fertility;  capable  of  yielding  every  variety  of  vegetable 


APPENDIX.  363 

production,  and  abounding  with  timber  of  the  greatest  size."  The  mean  tem- 
perature of  San  Francisco  in  December  is  53°,  the  maximum  being  66°  and  the 
minimum  46,  while  the  hygrometer  is  said  to  indicate  a  remarkably  dry  atmosphere. 

In  different  districts,  the  country  is  varied  by  hill  and  dell,  and  by  occasional 
mountains  rising  to  the  height  of  a  thousand,  and  sometimes  three  thousand  feet, 
while  the  adjacent  soil  is  of  the  richest  loam.  A  river  has  been  traced  some 
hundreds  of  miles  upward,  toward  the  northeast,  from  the  bay  of  San  Francisco. 
From  Monterey  to  Santa  Clara,  the  scenery  "  may  be  compared  to  a  park  which 
had  been  planted  with  the  true  old  English  oak,  with  its  undergrowth  cut  away, 
and  the  stately  lords  of  the  forest  left  in  complete  possession  of  the  soil,  which 
was  covered  with  luxuriant  herbage,  and  beautifully  diversified  with  pleasing 
eminences  and  vales." 

In  the  garden  of  the  Mission  of  Buenaventura,  Vancouver  was  struck  with  the 
quantity  and  variety  of  the  productions,  not  only  indigenous  to  the  country,  but 
"  appertaining  to  the  temperate  as  well  as  to  the  torrid  zone ; — such  as  apples, 
pears,  plums,  figs,  oranges,  grapes, "  peaches,  pomegranates,  plantains,  bananas, 
cocoanuts,  sugar  cane,  indigo,  and  every  useful  variety  of  kitchen  plants  and  me- 
dicinal roots."  "  It  would  not  be  easy,"  says  Forbes,*  "  to  match  such  an  assem- 
blage as  this  elsewhere,  and  yet  this  is  only  a  part  of  the  fruits  and  vegetables 
now  cultivated  in  California." 

The  forests  are  thick  and  abundant,  filled  with  oaks,  elms,  birch,  planes,  and 
great  varieties  of  pines ;  and  the  ranges  of  hills  and  mountains  which  bound  the 
maritime  portions  to  the  northeast,  shelter  it  from  the  only  winds  that  might  injure 
the  fruits  of  the  soil,  and  tend  to  preserve  the  eternal  spring  that  seems  to  reign 
for  ever  over  this  favored  land. 

Immense  herds  of  horses  run  wild  in  California  ;  and  it  is  said  that,  in  some 
places,  the  horned  cattle  even  render  the  country  unsafe  for  passengers.  Deer,  a 
variety  of  birds,  and  exhaustless  quantities  of  fish,  are  also  found;  but  I  will  better 
convey  to  you  an  idea  of  the  productions  of  the  country  by  transcribing  some  of 
the  tables  given  by  Mr.  Forbes,  whose  long  residence  on  the  Western  Coasts  of 
America,  entitles  him  to  the  greatest  confidence  and  respect.  Agriculture  in  gen- 
eral, is  but  poorly  conducted,  the  implements  being  nearly  the  same  as  those  that 
were  brought  by  the  earliest  settlers  ;  and  the  grains  that  are  cultivated  are  only 
wheat,  barley,  maize,  and  frijoles,  or,  a  bean  used  as  the  favorite  food  by  all  the 
natives. 

The  following  is  the  whole  produce  on  the  portion  of  Upper  California,  which 
was  cultivated  in  1831  : 

Wheat,                             .      " 25,144 

Maize,  or  corn, 10,926 

Frijoles,          ....-...,  1,644 

Gervanzos  and  peas,       "_..'""..        .,                 .         .  1,083 

Barley,            --.---..  7,405 


46,202 — fanegas. 

The  wheat  and  barley  may  be  calculated  to  be  worth  .$2  the  fanega;  the  maize 
1,50 ;  and  the  fanega,  itself,  to  contain  about  two  bushels  and  a  half  English 

*  In  his  work  on  California. 


364  APPENDIX. 

measure.  The  wheat,  it  will  be  perceived,  is  greater  than  any  of  the  other  grains ; 
and  this  is  the  reverse  of  what  usually  occurs  throughout  the  rest  of  Mexico.* 

The  mills  for  grinding  flour  are  few  and  primitive  ;  and  although,  as  we  have 
seen,  all  sorts  of  vegetables  and  fruits,  from  the  potatoe  to  the  vine,  fig  and  pines, 
may  be  readily  cultivated  ;  and  although  the  same  extent  of  ground  will  produce 
about  three  times  as  much  wheat  as  England,  and  returns  maize  one  hundred  and 
fifty  fold  ;  yet  every  species  of  agriculture  seems  to  be  abandoned  that  is  not 
merely  and  absolutely  necessary  to  support  existence.  Pasturage  here,  as  well 
as  throughout  most  of  the  Spanish  settlements,  appears  to  be  the  great  object  of 
the  farmer ;  and  he  derives  his  profits  from  it  in  the  easiest  manner,  by  the  sale 
either  of  his  beeves  and  horses,  or  of  their  fat  and  hides. 

The  following  table  will  give  you  the  total  number  of  cattle,  of  all  descriptions, 
for  the  year  1831  :f 

Black  cattle 216,727 

Horses, 32,201 

Mules, 2,844 

Asses, -.  177 

Sheep,            -                  153,455 

Goats 1,873 

Swine 839 

In  addition  to  these,  there  are  numbers  at  large  which  are  not  marked  as  belong- 
ing to  any  of  the  jurisdictions,  missions,  haciendas  or  towns  ;  and  are  hunted,  las- 
soed and  slain,  to  prevent  their  interference  with  the  pasturage  of  the  more  useful 
cattle.  But  from  all  this  vast  multitude  but  little  advantage  is  gained,  except  in 
the  hides  and  tallow.  Butter  and  cheese  are  almost  unknown,  and  the  dairy  con- 
sequently altogether  neglected.  A  fat  ox  is  worth  $5 ;  a  cow  $5  ;  a  horse,  for 
the  saddle,  $10;  a  mare  $5 ;  a  sheep  $2,  and  a  mule  is  worth  $10. 

In  former  times,  it  was  not  unusual  to  find  a  thousand  head  of  cattle  driven  to 
the  city  of  Mexico  from  the  large  estates  on  the  Pacific  ;  and  although  the  practice 
is  still  continued,  yet  it  is  not  to  the  extent  as  formerly.  During  the  first  few  years 
after  the  opening  of  the  ports,  the  trade  with  California  was  but  trifling.  The 
amount  of  exports  was  then  estimated,  at  about  thirty  thousand  hides  and  seven 
thousand  quintals  of  tallow,  with  some  trifling  cargoes  to  San  Bias,  being  not 
more  than  $130,000  in  total  value  ;  but  within  a  few  years  past  the  trade  has  con- 
siderably increased,  and  a  brisk  intercourse  has  been  conducted,  almost  entirely 
by  Americans,  with  the  Sandwich  Islands.  There  is  but  small  internal  commerce, 
and  although  it  forms  part  of  the  Mexican  Republic,  it  is  almost  entirely  cut  orT 
and  isolated  from  the  great  mass  of  the  nation. 

Besides  a  genial  climate,  and  an  exceedingly  prolific  soil,  Upper  California  has 
several  of  the  best  harbors  on  the  Western  Coast  of  America. 

Monterey,  which  was  recently  taken  possession  of  by  Commodore  Jones,  in  the 
most  impromptu  manner,  is  tolerably  safe,  though  but  an  open  roadstead.  San 
Diego  has  a  good  and  secure  anchorage.  San  Pedro  is  an  extensive  bay,  with 
good  holding  ground,  but  almost  totally  unknown.  San  Juan  has  an  anchorage  of 
five  fathoms  throughout  the  bay,  and  San  Francisco,  (a  narrow  arm  of  the  sea, 
penetrating  far  inland,  by  a  safe  and  deep  channel})  forms  one  of  (lie  most  capacious 
and  secure  harbors  in  the  world.  It  is  perfectly  shielded  from  every  ivind,  and  tlie 
largest  frigates  may  ride  in  safety  on  its  bosom. 

*  Forbes.  260.  t  Forbes,  265. 


APPENDIX.  365 

It  is  useless  to  contrast  the  trifling  result  produced  by  the  missionaries  in  Cali- 
fornia after  a  century's  labors,  with  that  of  the  missionaries  in  the  Sandwich 
Islands,  after  but  twenty-five  years.  Yet  we  cannot  help  noticing  that,  while  in 
the  Islands  there  are  seventeen  thousand  persons  in  the  church,  and  eighteen 
thousand  in  the  schools,  the  total  number  of  reclaimed  Indians  in  California  is  not 
more  than  eighteen  thousand  six  hundred  and  eighty-three,  and  those,  even,  are 
generally  unable  to  read ; — without  books,  bibles,  or  paper,  and  altogether  inca- 
pable of  self-government.  The  ministers  of  both  creeds  have,  doubtless,  been 
zealous  in  spirit,  but  certainly  with  very  unequal  success. 

You  may  now  very  reasonably  ask  me,  (after  having  perused  all  these  details,) 
of  what  interest  are  they,  either  to  yourself  or  our  country  1  and  why  I  should  direct 
your  attention  to  a  portion  of  the  territory  of  a  neighboring  power  with  which  we 
are  at  peace,  and  likely  to  remain  so  1 

I  trust  sincerely  that  these  pacific  relations  may  long  continue.  It  is  the  inte- 
rest of  both  Powers  that  they  should  do  so,  and  especially  that  of  Mexico.  An 
ardent  friendship  between  us,  founded  on  mutual  faith  and  similar  republican  insti- 
tutions, cannot  fail  to  affect  the  destinies  of  this  Continent ;  and  I  trust  you  will 
not  imagine,  therefore,  that  I  am  pointing  out  the  treasures  of  the  Californias  for 
the  purpose  of  alluring  people  to  the  enterprise  of  another  Texas.  But  the 
condition  of  Mexico  is  extremely  unsettled.  It  is  impossible  to  declare  or  imagine 
what  will  be  the  ultimate  issue  of  the  continual  revolutions,  that  have  torn  the 
vitals  of  that  beautiful  country  for  twenty  years.  She  may  consolidate  her  prov- 
inces, she  may  adopt  a  Federal  Government,  or  she  may  dismember  her  Empire, 
each  State  setting  up  a  separate  and  independent  rule  for  herself ;  but,  in  any  event, 
it  is  proper  that  we  should  not  so  cautiously  watch  her,  as  watch  Great  Britain  in  re- 
gard to  her.  Mexico  partakes  in  the  Spanish  pride  of  territorial  dominion  and  reten- 
tion of  her  soil ;  but  she  is  in  extreme  difficulties.  She  owes  (we  have  seen,)  a 
debt  of  $60,000,000  to  England  ;  and  to  the  United  States  a  debt  of  more  than 
$2,000,000.  Her  maritime  revenues  are  mortgaged  for  an  internal  debt  of  $18,- 
550,000  ;  and,  in  all,  she  owes  nearly  eighty-five  millions,  England  being  always 
the  largest  creditor,  to  the  extent,  perhaps,  of  three-fourths  of  the  whole. 

How  is  6he  to  pay  England  ?  To  liquidate  a  portion  of  the  debt  and  interest  due 
the  United  States,  (of  little  more  than  $200,000,)  she  was  obliged  to  resort  to  a 
forced  loan  from  her  citizens,  as  you  have  recently  observed.  Suppose  that  a  dis- 
memberment takes  place,  or,  that  England,  after  accumulating  her  claims  and 
wrath,  until  she  thinks  the  amount  and  energy  sufficient  for  all  exigencies,  sud- 
denly orders  her  Minister  in  Mexico  to  demand  payment  or  his  passports — what 
must  inevitably  be  the  result  ?  I  will  tell  you  in  the  language  of  Forbes,  in  order 
to  show  that  this  is  no  vain  imagination  of  the  moment  excited  in  an  American 
fancy.     The  value  of  California  is  known  and  appreciated  in  England. 

"  California,"  says  our  author,  at  page  146,*  "  is  quite  a  distinct  country 
from  Mexico,  and  has  nothing  in  common  with  it,  except  that  the  present  inhabit- 
ants are  of  the  same  family  ;  it  is  therefore  to  be  apprehended,  that  on  any  cause 
of  quarrel  between  the  two  countries,  it  will  be  apt  to  separate  itself  from  the 
parent  State." 

This  shows  you  the  possibility  of  a  disunion,  without  any  very  violent  effort  or 
loss  on  either  side  ;  but,  at  page  152,  he  boldly  broaches  the  idea  of  cancelling  the 
English  debt,  by  a  transfer  of  California  to  her  creditors.  "  This,"  says  he, 
"  would  be  a  wise  measure  on  the  part  of  Mexico,  if  the  Government  could  be 

*  Foibes's  California,  London,  1839.    Mr.  Forbes  is,  or  was,  until  recently,  British  Consul  in  one  of  the  ports 
on  the  West  Coast  of  Mexico. 


366  APPENDIX. 

brought  to  lay  aside  the  vanity  of  retaining  large  possessions.  The  cession  of 
such  a  disjointed  part  of  the  Republic  as  California,  would  be  an  advantage.  In 
no  case  can  it  ever  be  profitable  to  the  Mexican  Republic,  nor  can  it  possibly  re- 
main united  to  it  for  any  length  of  time.  Therefore,  by  giving  up  this  territory 
for  the  debt,  would  be  getting  rid  of  this  last  for  nothing.  *        *        *        * 

If  California  were  ceded  for  the  English  debt,  the  creditors  might  be  formed  into  a 
Company,  with  the  difference,  that  they  should  have  a  sort  of  sovereignty  over  the 
territory — somewhat  in  the  manner  of  the  East  India  Company.  This,  in  my 
opinion,  would  certainly  bring  a  revenue  in  time  which  might  be  equal  to  the 
debt ;  and,  under  good  management  and  with  an  English  population,  would  most 
certainly  realize  all  that  has  been  predicted  of  this  fine  country." 

Now,  may  not  this  sudden  usurpation  of  the  Sandwich  Islands  be  a  premonitory 
symptom — a  step  in  advance  to  a  movement  upon  Mexico  ?  Look,  for  a  moment, 
at  the  map  of  the  world.  England  already  has  control  of  the  Eastern  part  ot'  Asia; 
is  looking  toward  her  possessions  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  and  is  evidently 
excited  by  our  Senatorial  harangues  on  the  Oregon  Territory.  Her  rival,  Russia, 
has  encroached  on  the  Californias  by  a  settlement  at  Bodega,  and  is  known  to 
have  attempted  to  procure  the  cession  of  an  upland  tract  in  the  Hawaiian  Islands, 
under  the  pretence  of  a  desire  "  for  soil  to  cultivate  wheat."  France  has  the 
Marquesas.  We  are  prosecuting  our  claims  on  the  North  Western  Territory. 
England  requires  a  central  rendezvous  for  her  fleets  in  the  Pacific,  and  she  seizes 
the  Sandwich  Islands.  They  are  in  the  direct  line  of  trade  from  the  West  Coast 
to  China.  Mexico  owes  Great  Britain  an  enormous  debt  which  she  is  unable  to 
pay.  A  project  is  on  foot  to  cross  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  by  a  railway  or  canal. 
Steam  navigation  has  already  been  introduced  into  the  Pacific,  and  we  all  know 
how  rapidly  the  facilities  were  advanced  within  a  few  years  to  reach  India  through 
the  Red  Sea 

Now  I  confess  to  you,  that,  combining  all  these  circumstances — the  value  of  the 
Islands  and  the  Main,  the  greediness  of  England,  the  manner  in  which  she  is 
pushing  her  Empire  all  over  the  world — I  cannot  but  see  danger  in  the  sudden 
attempted  seizure  of  the  Hawaiian  group,  and  think  it  time  that  the  statesmen  of 
our  country  should  take  a  decided  stand  in  the  politics  of  this  hemisphere. 

I  think  I  have  shown  the  importance  of  these  Islands  to  our  commerce,  and  the 
value  of  the  Californias,  both  as  a  country  of  vast  natural  resources,  and  as  a  terri- 
tory which,  in  the  hands  of  a  European  Power,  would  become  a  central  point, 
whence  it  might  powerfully  influence  the  future  destinies  of  this  Continent. 

"  The  Pacific  Coast  of  Spanish  America,"  says  the  author  I  have  already 
quoted,  "  is,  in  uninterrupted  extent,  equal  to  the  whole  coast  of  the  Old  World 
from  the  Naze  of  Norway  to  the  Cape  de  Verd  in  Africa.  What  reflections  must 
this  give  rise  to,  when  we  consider  that  this  line  of  coast  comprehends  Denmark, 
Germany,  Holland,  the  Netherlands,  Great  Britain,  France,  Portugal,  Spain,  Italy, 
the  countries  around  the  Mediterranean,  and  part  of  Africa  ?  And  certainly  the 
American  shores  are  bounded  by  countries,  naturally  more  rich  than  all  these 
ancient  and  powerful  countries  united." 

It  seems,  then,  that  the  true  wisdom  of  our  Government  should  be  directed 
toward  the  preservation  of  this  immense  territory  intact,  and  under  the  growing 
influence  of  Republican  systems.  A  wrong  step  in  statesmanship  in  our  day  and 
generation,  may  involve  us  in  all  the  foreign  difficulties  and  questions  of  the 
"  balance  of  power,"  and  affect  the  fate  of  our  hemisphere  for  centuries  to  come. 
But,  under  any  circumstances,  let  it  be  our  care  to  keep  sacred  the  soil  of  our 


APPENDIX.  367 

immediate  neighbor  in  the  hour  of  her  weakness,  and  to  protect  the  Islands  that 
have  been  founded  and  raised  to  national  dignity  and  importance,  by  American 
zeal  and  American  enterprise.  It  is  our  pecuniary  and  our  political  interest  to 
do  so. 


THE  ENCROACHMENTS  OF  ENGLAND. 


No  one  who  has  been  in  the  least  attentive  to  the  diplomatic  negotiations  of  our 
country,  can  fail  to  know,  that  the  question  of  total  political  separation  between 
this  Continent  and  Europe,  is  one  of  no  recent  date. 

When  the  revolutions  of  the  Southern  Republics  were  in  some  degree  quieted, 
and  it  became  evident,  after  the  battle  of  Ayacucho,  that  the  dominion  of  Spain 
must  cease  entirely  over  her  American  colonies,  the  Government  of  the  United 
States  hastened  to  interfere,  by  her  ministers  abroad,  in  behalf  of  the  independence 
of  the  revolted  provinces.  It  did  so,  in  order  to  prevent  the  useless  effusion  of 
blood,  and  to  produce  a  pacification  of  this  hemisphere,  under  which  the  commer- 
cial interests  of  our  Union  might  be  fostered,  and  the  people  of  the  newly  emanci- 
pated regions  take  their  place  among  the  enlightened  nations  of  the  world.  In 
these  negotiations  with  the  European  powers,  both  Mr.  Adams  and  Mr.  Clay 
produced  some  of  the  ablest  state  papers  that  adorn  the  archives  of  our  Depart- 
ment ;  and  it  would  be  well  to  refer  to  them,  at  the  present  period,  when  the 
encroachments  of  England,  on  the  flimsiest  pretexts,  are  again  beginning  to  be 
visible  all  over  the  world,  while  she  is  extending  her  sway,  not  only  for  the 
peaceful  purposes  of  her  commerce,  but  for  empire  and  territory.  The  foundation 
of  the  exclusive  system  of  our  country,  has  been  laid  "  in  principles  of  morals  and 
politics  new  and  distasteful  to  the  thrones  and  dominations  of  the  Old  World  ;"  and 
they  are  now,  most  probably,  seeking  with  slow  and  secret  advance,  to  regain,  by 
gradual  and  unheeded  progress,  what  the  political  ferments  of  Europe,  at  an  earlier 
period,  forced  them  to  abandon. 

In  the  summer  of  1825,  a  large  Trench  fleet  visited  the  American  seas  and  the 
coast  of  the  United  States.  The  purpose  of  this  armament  was  unknown.  But 
the  watchful  statesmen  of  those  days  regarded  a  visit  of  that  character  with  jealous 
eyes ;  and  the  Minister  of  the  United  States  at  the  Court  of  Paris  was  immediately 
directed  by  Mr.  Clay,  to  inform  the  Cabinet  to  which  he  was  accredited,  that  any 
such  movements,  made  in  time  of  peace,  ought  hereafter  to  be  notified  to  us. 
Mr.  Brown  was  instructed,  at  the  same  time,  to  call  the  attention  of  the  French 
Government  to  the  condition  of  the  islands  of  Cuba  and  Porto  Rico ;  and  it  was 
distinctly  intimated,  that  inasmuch  as  we  were  altogether  contented  with  the 
present  ownership  of  these  possessions,  "  we  could  not  consent  to  their  occupation 
by  another  European  power  than  Spain,  under  any  contingency  whatever."  A  sim- 
ilar communication  was  made  about  the  same  time  to  Mr.  Canning ;  and  it  is  known 
that  these  frank  and  amicable  representations  were  heedfully  respected  by  the 
Governments  both  of  England  and  Prance.  The  real  purposes  of  the  French 
fleet  of  1825  are  still  utterly  unknown  ;  but  the  idea  that  its  object  was  the  occu- 
pation of  Cuba  and  Porto  Rico  gained  considerable  ground,  from  the  current  rumor 
of  the  day,  the  weakness  of  Spain,  the  revolted  condition  of  her  provinces,  the 
intimate  alliance  between  that  monarchy  and  France,  and  "  the  disproportionate 
extent  of  the  armament  to  any  ordinary  purposes  of  peaceful  commerce." 


368  APPENDIX. 

It  is  also  known,  from  the  interviews  between  Mr.  Middleton  and  Count  Nessel- 
rode,  at  St.  Peterburg,  in  August,  1825,  that  the  Russian  Cabinet  had  resolved  to 
discountenance  every  enterprise  against  these  Islands,  and  thus  maintain  the  only 
state  of  things  "that  could  preserve  a  just  balance  of  power  in  the  Antilles." 


President  Monroe,  in  his  message  to  Congress  in  1823,  most  distinctly  lays 
down  his  ideas  of  the  true  policy  of  the  United  States  in  regard  to  this  Continent. 

"The  citizens  of  the  United  States,"  said  he,  "cherish  sentiments  the  most 
friendly  in  favor  of  the  liberty  and  happiness  of  their  fellow  men  on  that  (the  Euro- 
pean) side  of  the  Atlantic.  In  the  wars  of  the  European  Powers,  in  matters  rela- 
ting to  themselves,  we  have  never  taken  any  part,  nor  does  it  comport  with  our 
policy  so  to  do.  It  is  only  when  our  rights  are  invaded,  or  seriously  menaced, 
that  we  resent  injuries  or  make  preparation  for  our  defence.  With  the  movements 
in  this  hemisphere,  we  are  of  necessity  more  immediately  connected,  and  by  causes 
which  must  be  obvious  to  all  enlightened  and  impartial  observers.  The  political 
system  of  the  Allied  Powers,  is  essentially  different  in  this  respect  from  that  of 
America.  This  difference  proceeds  from  that  which  exists  in  their  respective 
Governments.  And  to  the  defence  of  our  own,  which  has  been  achieved  by  the 
loss  of  so  much  blood  and  treasure,  and  matured  by  the  wisdom  of  their  most  en- 
lightened citizens,  and  under  which  we  have  enjoyed  unexampled  felicity,  this 
whole  nation  is  devoted.  We  owe  it,  therefore,  to  candor,  and  to  the  amicable 
relations  subsisting  between  the  United  States  and  those  Powers,  to  declare,  that 
we  should  consider  any  attempt  on  their  part,  to  extend  their  system  to  any  por- 
tion of  this  hemisphere,  as  dangerous  to  our  peace  and  safety. 

"  With  the  existing  colonies  or  dependencies  of  any  European  power,  we  have 
not  interfered,  and  shall  not  interfere.  But  with  the  Governments  who  have 
declared  their  Independence,  and  maintained  it,  and  whose  independence  we  have, 
on  great  consideration,  and  on  just  principles,  acknowledged,  we  could  not  view 
any  interposition,  for  the  purposes  of  oppressing  them,  or  controlling  in  any  other 
manner  their  destiny,  by  any  European  Power,  in  other  light  than  as  the  manifes- 
tation of  an  unfriendly  disposition  toward  the  United  States.  In  the  war  between 
those  new  Governments  and  Spain,  we  declared  our  neutrality  at  the  time  of  their 
recognition,  and  to  this  we  have  adhered,  and  shall  continue  to  adhere,  provided 
no  change  shall  occur,  which,  in  the  judgment  of  the  competent  authorities  of  this 
Government,  shall  make  a  corresponding  change  on  the  part  of  the  United  States 
indispensable  to  their  security." 


In  March,  1826,  Mr.  Adams,  then  President  of  the  United  States,  prepared  a 
very  luminous  message  on  the  subject  of  the  Panama  mission,  in  which  he  takes 
occasion  to  give  a  historical  account  of  our  relations  with  the  new  Republics,  and 
to  enforce  the  doctrines  so  clearly  stated  by  his  predecessor.  He  deemed  the 
acceptance  of  an  invitation  to  join  in  the  deliberation  of  that  Congress,  as  by  no 
means  violating  the  ancient  well  established  policy  of  our  nation  by  entangling  us 
in  dangerous  alliances,  and  he  resolved  that  we  should  concur  in  no  engagements 
which  would  import  hostility  to  Europe,  or  justly  excite  resentment  in  any  of  her 
States.  "  Our  views,"  says  he,  "  would  extend  no  further  than  to  a  mutual  pledge 
of  the  parties  to  the  compact,  to  maintain  the  principle  in  application  to  its  own 
territory,  and  to  permit  no  colonial  lodgments,  or  establishments,  of  European 
jurisdiction  upon  its  own  soil. 


APPENDIX.  369 

It  will  be  perceived,  therefore,  that  two  Administrations  at  the  commencement 
of  the  national  existence  of  the  new  Republic,  solemnly  determined  on  an  unqual- 
ified political  and  colonial  separation  from  all  European  powers.  They  were 
anxious  to  preserve  a  state  of  mutual  liberty  and  independence,  and  yet  it  was  not 
deemed  expedient  to  imitate  the  example  of  the  Old  World,  by  the  formation  of  an 
American  Holy  Alliance,  in  defence  of  our  freedom,  as  Europe  had  done  in  de- 
fence of  legitimacy  and  allegiance.  It,  nevertheless,  would  seem,  that  as  the 
great  head  of  the  Powers  of  this  Continent,  it  becomes  us  now  to  persist  in  the 
policy  wisely  adopted  near  twenty  years  ago  ;  and  to  be  warned,  in  time,  of  every 
symptom  of  approaching  danger. 

If  England  extends  her  power,  by  gradual  advances,  from  the  Balize  into  Gua- 
temala, (now  under  Indian  rule,)  and  then  into  Yucatan,  (now  in  revolt.)  she  will 
hold  the  key  of  both  Americas,  by  controlling  the  passage  across  the  Isthmus  to 
the  Pacific.  If  she  pushes  her  claims  on  Mexico,  and  grasps  the  Californias ; 
retains  her  hold  on  China,  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  and  Canada  ; — and,  while 
she  continues  the  possession  of  the  Bermudas,  sweeps  our  Eastern  coast  by 
armed  war-steamers,  masked  under  the  peaceful  disguise  of  West  India  Mail 
Packets(!)  we  will  shortly  find  ourselves  as  comfortably  and  securely  walled  in 
by  British  bayonets,  as  the  most  loyal  of  Her  Majesty's  subjects  could  well 
desire. 

And  yet,  all  this  would  be  effected  by  mere  supineness  on  our  part,  and  by 
neglect  of  determined  firmness,  and  intimations  similar  to  those  of  1825,  in  regard 
to  the  French  fleet,  and  the  occupation  of  Cuba  and  Porto  Rico.  If  I  am  an- 
swered, that  these  are  dreams  and  visions  of  things  that  may  occur,  but  perhaps 
will  not  in  our  day  and  generation ;  I  reply,  by  the  expression  of  a  hope  that  the 
period  of  time-serving  policy  is  over  in  our  Union,  and  that  the  statesmanship  of 
America  is  not  hereafter  to  be  confined  by  a  horizon  of  four  years,  or,  at  most 
of  eight . 

If  one-half  the  foresight  that  is  employed  in  Britain  to  sustain  a  population 
over-taxed,  over-worked,  and  surrounded  by  institutions  far  behind  the  spirit  of 
the  age,  on  a  territory  of  small  dimensions,  were  infused,  especially,  into  the  for- 
eign relations  of  our  own  country,  with  its  vast  domain  and  happy  people,  the  germ 
of  a  thousand  ills  would  be  destroyed  for  the  future.  If  we  begin  right  in  our 
national  career,  we  shall  not  be  forced  to  remedy  an  accumulation  of  political 
errors  by  subsequent  legislation,  or,  like  England,  to  resort  to  unnatural  stimu- 
lants and  predatory  wars  for  the  purpose  of  infusing  artificial  life  into  a  decrepit 
Empire. 


In  connection  with  the  subject  of  our  trade  and  interests  in  the  Pacific,  and  the 
proposed  junction  of  the  Atlantic  and  that  Ocean  by  a  Canal  across  the  Isthmus 
of  Panama,  I  take  the  liberty  to  insert  a  very  valuable  note  from  Mr.  Forbes's 
"  California,"  relative  to  Steam  Navigation  in  that  Sea. 

EXTRACT  OF  A  LETTER  TO  THE  EDITOR  ON  THE  SUBJECT  OF  STEAM  NAVIGATION  IN 
THE  PACIFIC,  FROM  A  GENTLEMAN  FORMERLY  RESIDENT  IN  ONE  OF  THE  MEXICAN 
PORTS  ON  THE  PACIFIC. 

London,  Dec.  20,  1838. 
I  have  taken  some  pains  to  make  myself  acquainted  with  the  grounds  on  which 
the  "  Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Company  "  is  founded,  with  its  proceedings  as  far 
24 


370  APPENDIX. 

as  they  have  gone,  and  its  prospects  as  far  as  I  can  comprehend  them.  Of  this 
you  may  rest  assured  :  that  it  has  already  received  the  patronage  of  the  leading 
merchants  trading  to  the  Pacific ;  several  of  them  having  subscribed  with  the  ex- 
pressed object  of  forwarding  an  undertaking  fraught  with  so  many  public  benefits, 
while  others  have  entered  more  largely  into  it,  with  the  view  of  participating  in 
the  great  profit  which  it  promises  as  an  investment.  The  general  result  given  in 
the  34th  page  of  Mr.  Wheelwright's  pamphlet,  showing  466,950  dollars  as  the 
amount  of  annual  receipts  on  four  steamers,  costing  from  400.000  to  450,000  dol- 
lars, and  against  the  same  only  236,630  dollars  of  annual  expenditure,  whereby 
the  company  will  realize  an  annual  profit  of  230,320  dollars,  or  (at48d.  exchange) 
£46,064,  is  so  extraordinarily  large,  that  my  first  impression  was  to  look  upon 
the  project  as  one  hatched  by  parties  connected  with  our  Stock  Exchange ;  but 
on  turning  to  schedules  A.  and  C,  I  not  only  found  that  the  above  results  were 
verified  by  a  committee  of  British  merchants  residing  in  Lima,  and  presided  over 
by  Her  Majesty's  Consul  for  Peru,  but  that  a  note  was  added,  giving  reasons  to 
hope  for  still  larger  profits,  under  economical  arrangements  in  the  management 
of  the  items  of  expenditure. 

It  appears  that  this  plan,  speculative  though  it  seems,  dates  its  rise  from  the 
circular  officially  issued  by  Her  Majesty's  Consul  General  for  Peru,  dated  Lima, 
18th  June,  1826,  directed  to  British  merchants  and  residents  generally,  requesting 
their  attention  to  dispatches  from  Her  Majesty's  Government,  promising  facilities 
to  carry  it  into  effect,  and  requesting  their  active  cooperation.  No  undertaking, 
therefore,  could  originate  under  more  respectable  auspices  ;  and  from  inquiries  I 
have  made,  I  have  no  hesitation  in  stating  that  the  gentlemen  who  have  taken  it 
up  in  London  are  of  the  utmost  respectability,  and  influenced  by  the  most  honor- 
able motives. 

The  Author  of  "  California  "  has  not  expressed  himself  in  favor  of  the  extension 
of  this  proposed  line,  from  Panama  to  the  Northern  Pacific,  further  than  as  the 
reader  may  construe  his  remarks  in  pages  315  to  320.  But  I  feel  confident,  after 
viewing  the  success  of  steam  in  the  Arabian  Gulf  and  Red  Sea,  in  the  Mediter- 
ranean, and  backward  and  forward  to  England,  at  all  seasons  of  the  year ;  and, 
above  all,  in  so  many  safe  and  expeditious  voyages  across  the  Atlantic,  that  the 
day  is  not  far  distant,  when  either  the  directors  of  the  present  Pacific  Steam 
Navigation  Company,  or  some  new  Company,  will  take  up  the  Northern  line. 
The  numerous  population  along  the  Western  coasts  of  Central  America  and 
Mexico,  and  the  rich  products  of  the  adjoining  provinces  in  gold,  silver,  pearls, 
cochineal,  and  indigo,  ought  to  afford  profitable  employment  for  steamers  as  far 
up  as  the  Gulf  of  California  at  least ;  and  were  emigration  ever  turning  its  tide 
to  California,  in  the  way  suggested  by  the  author,  whether  under  the  direction 
of  Her  Majesty's  Government,  or  of  a  public  company,  the  aid  of  steam  could  not 
fail  to  be  required. 

Under  the  strongest  presentiment  that  these  ideas  will  not  lie  many  years  in- 
operative, I  have  made  calculations  of  the  distances  from  Panama  to  the  principal 
northern  ports ;  which  I  here  subjoin,  as  not  without  importance  in  the  present 
inquiry.  These  calculations  do  not  pretend  to  be  exact  to  a  mile,  or  to  an  hour ; 
but  they  are  sufficiently  so  for  our  purpose.     Nine  miles  are  allowed  per  hour. 

The  distances  from  Panama  to  San  Diego,  Monterey,  San  Francisco,  Bodega, 
and  Columbia  river  are  given  in  two  ways ;  first,  by  tiie  line  of  coast,  via  Mazatlan, 
and  second,  from  Panama  direct. 


APPENDIX. 


371 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES  AND  HOURS  STEAMING  FROM  PANAMA  TO  THE  FOLLOWING  PORTS,  VIZ  : 

Miles.  Hours. 

From  Panama  to  the  Gulf  of  Nicoya,         .....  435  48 

"         the  Gulf  of  Papagayo, 590  65.30 

Realejo,          -         -         -         -  ,     -        -        -  -      680  75.30 

"             ■*         Sonsonate, 847  94 

"             «         Yztapa, 937  104 

Socunusco, 1095  121.30 

"             "         Tehuantepec, 1210  134.30 

Acapulco,        - 1495  166 

"             "         Navidad,         -        -        -        -         -         -    ,     -  1810  201 

San  Bias, '     -  1962  218 

Mazatlan, 2091  232 

"             "         Guaymas, 2448  272 

"             "         Rio  Gila,  where  it  joins  the  Colorado,      -         -  2793  310 

«         a   ■    tv           S  via  Mazatlan    ....  3016  335 

San  Diego,    j  direct  from  Panamaj         _        .  2im  306.30 

,-                S  via  Mazatlan        ....  3376  375 

Monterey,  j  direct)          .....  3120  346.30 

„      „                 V  via  Mazatlan        -         -         -  3456  384 

San  Francisco,  j  ^^           ....  3200  355.30 

„  a  „.  ,    (P    tB    ,  S  via  Mazatlan  3514  390 JO 

"             "         Russian  Settlement  at  Fort  Bodega,  <   ,  3258  362 

"             "         the  British  Settlement  at  j  via  Mazatlan           -  4034  448 

Columbia  River,           )  direct,    -         -         -  3570  385.30 

"             "         Behring's  Straits,  via  Columbia  River,      -         -  5970  663 

"             "         Woahoo,  Sandwich  Islands,    ....  4620  513 

"         St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul,  Kamschatka,  via  Woahoo,  7380  820 

«■             "         Jedo,  in  Japan,  via  Woahoo,  ....  7950  883 

"             «         Canton,  via  Woahoo,      -        -         -         ...  :    .  9540  1060 


In  the  above  table,  the  distance  to  Behring's  Straits  and  the  ports  that  follow, 
is  given  to  satisfy  the  reader's  curiosity,  and  not  with  a  view  to  any  practical 
utility,  in  the  way  of  Steam  Navigation,  unless  greatly  improved  and  cheapened. 
It  is  not  impossible  that  chemists  may  discover  some  new  power,  equal  to  steam, 
and  producible  at  less  expense,  or  that  our  engineers  may  invent  some  mechanical 
mode  of  propulsion  for  vessels,  rendering  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  the  most  direct 
and  expeditious  route,  not  only  to  these  ports,  but  to  Manila  and  the  whole 
Eastern  Archipelago. 

It  will  be  seen  from  this  table,  that  the  British  settlement*  on  the  Columbia 
river  might  be  reached  from  Panama,  by  steam,  in  nineteen  days,  or  say  about 
forty  days  from  England.  By  the  same  route,  the  important  port  of  San  Francisco 
might  be  reached  in  sixteen  days  from  Panama,  or  thirty-six  from  England  ;  and 
the  Russsian  settlement  at  La  Bodega,  in  about  six  hours  longer  time.  What  a 
change  in  our  communications,  when  the  nearest  Russian  settlement  on  the  west 
coast  of  America,  will  be  brought  within  thirty-six  days  and  six  hours  steaming, 
from  our  own  shores ;  when  even  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul,  in  Kamschatka,  will  be 
within  fifty  days,  steaming  ;  Jedo,  within  fifty-seven  ;  Canton,  within  sixty-four, 
and  Woahoo,  in  the  Sandwich  Islands,  within  forty-two  days  *.  Such  are  the 
wonderful  results,  that  sooner  or  later  may  be  expected  from  the  mere  power  of 
steam,  (improved  and  cheapened,  as  it  may  be,  by  fresh  discoveries,)  and  the  re- 
sumption of  the  old  line  of  communication  between  Europe  and  the  Pacific,  via 
Chagres  and  Panama. 

*  I  cat]  it  British,  believing  we  have  not  yet  relinquished  its  Northern  bank. 

24* 


372  APPENDIX. 

I  here  use  the  word  resumption  deliberately ;  for,  from  the  era  of  Columbus 
(1502)  down  to  1824,  that  line  was  the  high  road  between  Spain  and  her  colonies, 
along  the  West  coast,  not  only  for  Spanish  settlers  and  merchants,  but  for  whole 
cargoes  of  goods  and  regiments  of  soldiers.  The  famous  Vasco  Nimes  de  Balbao, 
so  early  as  1513,  crossed  the  isthmus,  with  troops,  from  his  settlement  of  Santa 
Maria  del  Darien,  to  the  Gulf  of  San  Miguel,  S.  E.  of  Panama ;  and  the  latter, 
eleven  years  afterward,  viz.  in  1524,  had  already  become  a  city  of  sufficient  im- 
portance to  have  a  governor,  and  to  furnish  to  Francisco  Pizarro,  Diego  Almagro, 
and  Fernando  Luque,  the  men,  arms,  and  ships  with  which  they  proceeded  to  the 
conquest  of  Peru.  Soon  afterward,  it  became  the  seat  of  a  Royal  "  Audiencia," 
and,  until  the  suppression  of  the  Spanish  galleons,  and  the  opening  of  the  free 
trade,  was  the  grand  emporium  of  all  the  merchandise  from  Spain,  destined  for 
the  southern  coast  of  New  Granada  and  Peru,  and  the  northern  ports  of  Guate- 
mala. During  the  late  war  of  Independence  in  Peru,  several  regiments  from 
Spain  were  sent  up  the  Chagres  to  Panama,  and  from  thence,  by  transports,  tc 
Peru ;  and  it  was  by  the  same  course,  that  Cruz  Mourgeon — the  last  Vice-king 
appointed  by  Spain  for  New  Granada — passed,  with  his  forces,  in  1822.  The  his- 
tory of  the  Buccaneers  proves  that,  as  early  as  the  days  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  our 
own  piratical  countrymen,  and  other  lawless  inhabitants  of  the  West  Indies,  were 
quite  familiar  with  this  route,  which  they  passed  and  repassed  at  pleasure ;  and 
until  the  trade  with  the  Pacific,  by  Cape  Horn,  became  open  to  our  own  merchants, 
they  supplied  the  wants  of  the  Spanish  colonists  on  the  Pacific  coasts,  through 
Jamaica,  by  the  same  channel.  It  is  therefore  clear,  that  in  resuming  that  old 
line  of  communication,  without  the  aid  of  either  Railroad  or  Canal,  (though  doubt- 
less either  of  these  would  greatly  facilitate  the  transport  of  passengers  and  goods,) 
the  Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Company  makes  no  new  or  dangerous  experiment. 
A  British  merchant,  then  sailing  on  board  the  vessel  whose  course  is  given  in  the 
map  attached  to  the  present  work,  so  recently  as  1824,  took  on  board  in  Panama 
and  carried  to  San  Bias,  a  thousand  bales  of  goods,  bought  and  packed  in  Jamaica, 
and  which  had  been  conveyed  across  the  isthmus,  by  the  way  indicated.  The 
expenses  on  each  bale  placed  in  Panama  were  seven  dollars  three  rials,  and  con- 
sisted of  the  following  items,  viz. : 

Freight  on  each  bale  from  Jamaica  to  Chagres,     - 
Agency  at  Chagres,     -         -         -         -         -  .   - 

Freight  per  canoe  from  Chagres  to  Cruces,  ... 
Duty  of  Deposite  in  Cruces,         - 

Agency, 

Mule-hire  from  Cruces  to  Panama  (7  leagues), 

In  all,         ...         7         3 

on  each  bale  of  about  150  lbs.  weight.  The  canoes  on  the  Chagres  are  large 
enough  to  take  eighty  of  these  bales  at  once ;  have  "  Toldos,"  (a  kind  of  awning, 
made  of  cane  and  palm  leaves,  impervious  to  the  sun  and  rain,)  are  quite  safe,  and 
managed,  with  great  adroitness,  by  negro  watermen  remarkable  for  their  size  and 
strength. 

It  would  require  some  nicety  of  calculation,  to  enable  me  to  institute  an  exact 
comparison  between  these  charges,  and  those  on  the  same  goods  carried  round  by 
Cape  Horn.  I  am  inclined  to  think,  that  on  goods  outward  the  latter  would  be 
the  cheapest  route ;  but,  on  lace,  fine  linens,  silks,  and  jewelry,  the  additional  ex- 
pense could  not  be  sensibly  felt ;  and  where  the  object  is  to  be  first  in  a  market ; 
in  the  time  of  war,  to  save  risk ;  and  at  all  times,  to  save  interest  of  money,  the 


oils. 

Rials. 

2 

0 

0 

4 

1 

5 

0 

4 

0 

2 

2 

4 

APPENDIX.  373 

Panama  and  Chagres  route — even  as  it  was  in  1824,  and  is  now — must  be  the 
preferable  one,  both  as  regards  the  above  description  of  goods  outward,  and  bullion, 
specie,  cochineal,  and  indigo  homeward. 

Besides  the  seven  dollars  three  rials  above  mentioned,  I  may  state  that,  in  1824, 
the  transit  duties  levied  in  Panama  were  three  dollars  two  rials  on  each  bale  ;  but 
by  a  late  decree  of  the  government  of  New  Granada,  all  the  transit  duties  have 
been  abolished,  so  that,  perhaps,  at  this  moment,  the  whole  charges  may  not  exceed 
six  dollars  per  bale,  from  Jamaica  to  Panama.  I  lately  conversed  with  an  intelli- 
gent Havana  merchant,  D.  R.  Clarke,  Esq.,  now  in  London,  who  has  been  six 
voyages  from  Jamaica  (backward  and  forward)  to  Panama :  he  never  incurred  the 
smallest  loss  or  risk  either  from  the  river,  the  road,  the  natives,  or  the  climate ; 
but  to  avoid  delay,  he  thinks  that  a  tram  railroad,*  either  from  the  junction  of  the 
Trinidad  with  the  Chagres  to  Panama,  or  from  Portobello  to  Panama,  would  be 
of  great  use,  easily  made,  and  cheaply  supported.  Perhaps  the  former  would  be 
preferable,  on  account  of  the  dangerous  fevers  which  prevail  in  Portobello,  but  not 
on  the  Chagres. 

The  above  remarks  are  made,  presuming  that  Her  Majesty's  government  estab- 
lishes a  line  of  steamers  through  the  West  Indies  as  far  as  to  Chagres,  and  that 
the  Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Company  take  the  passengers  and  goods  up  at  Pa- 
nama, in  the  Pacific,  carrying  them  thence,  on  their  way  south  and  north,  without 
delay ;  for  the  reader  will  find  that  a  vessel  (a  fast-sailing  schooner,  of  the  class 
known  under  the  designation  of  "  Clipper  ")  took  thirty-two  days  in  sailing  from 
Panama  to  San  Bias,  a  voyage  which,  by  a  steamer  proceeding  direct,  might  be 
accomplished  in  nine  days.  A  dull  sailing  vessel  would  have  taken  perhaps  sixty 
days,  or  more,  to  perform  the  same  voyage,  from  the  extreme  difficulty  of  sailing 
out  to  the  westward  from  Panama  Bay,  in  consequence  of  calms,  alternating  with 
squalls  from  all  directions,  and  the  struggle  she  would  have  to  maintain,  in  pro- 
ceeding along  the  coasts  of  Central  America  and  Mexico,  against  opposing  winds 
and  currents.  The  same  "  clipper  "  (though  to  go  eleven  and  eleven-and-a-half 
knots  per  hour,  was  not  unusual  with  her,)  took  twelve  days  on  her  voyage  from 
Valparaiso,  in  sailing  from  the  Equator  to  Panama.  I  mention  these  apparently 
uninteresting  minutise,  to  establish  the  important  facts,  that  even  were  such  a 
canal  made  as  the  author  of  "  California  "  recommends,  without  steamers  ready 
at  Panama  (as  the  Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Company  proposes  to  have  them,) 
to  carry  on,  at  once,  goods  and  passengers  northward  and  southward,  little  advan- 
tage would  be  gained,  as  regards  ports  to  the  southward  of  Payta,  or  northward 
of  Manzanillo,  on  the  coast  of  Mexico.  The  saving  of  time  would  not  be  very 
great,  and  the  expense,  allowing  for  lolls  on  the  canal,  would,  I  fear,  not  be  much 
less,  than  by  the  voyage  round  Cape  Horn. 

I  do  not  think  that  steamers  from  Panama  northward,  would  pay  the  owners 
farther  than  San  Bias  or  Mazatlan :  were,  indeed,  the  tide  of  emigration  setting 
strongly  to  California  or  the  settlements  on  the  Columbia  River,  occasional  trips 
might  be  made  so  far,  profitably ;  but  as  for  Woahoo,  Jedo,  Canton,  and  other 
places  named  in  the  calculations  above  given,  steamers  from  Panama  to  them  will 
never  pay,  until  in  the  progress  of  discovery,  the  expenses  of  steamers  are  brought 
down  more  nearly  to  a  level  with  those  of  sailing  vessels.  If  ever  this  desirable 
event  be  realized,  the  ideas  here  thrown  out  will  assume  a  practical  importance ; 
and  it  will  behoove  Great  Britain,  as  queen  of  the  sea,  to  maintain  by  steam  the 
same  naval  character  which  she  has  earned  by  canvas.  The  Isthmus  of  Panama 
will  then  become  a  point  of  very  great  importance. 

*  I  mean  a  road  with  rails,  where  the  carriages  and  wagons  are  dragged  by  horses  and  mules,  both  of  which 
abound  and  are  cheap  in  the  Isthmus.   . 


5374  APPENDIX. 

The  author  of  "  California "  hints  the  possibility  that  the  Isthmus  might  be 
ceded  to  some  European  State :  if  it  ever  should  be  so  ceded,  the  nation  hold- 
ing it  will  acquire  an  immense  influence  and  power  over  the  communications  of 
the  world,  (supposing  the  above  improvements  in  steam,)  with  a  territory  well- 
wooded,  well-watered,  fertile  in  the  extreme,  rich  in  gold  and  pearl  fisheries,  ca- 
pable of  supporting  a  numerous  population,  and  not,  by  any  means,  generally 
unhealthy ;  while  the  inhabitants  will  acquire  that  wealth  and  prosperity,  which 
the  advantages  of  their  situation  secure  to  them.  But  even  allowing — as  is  most 
probable — that  New  Granada  will  continue  to  retain  its  sovereignty  over  the 
Isthmus,  there  is  nothing  in  the  history  or  character  of  that  Republic  which  can 
justify  our  fears  that  it  will  not  religiously  maintain  its  stipulations  in  favor  of  the 
route  across  to  Panama.  Of  all  the  South  American  Republics,  New  Granada  has 
shown  the  greatest  respect  to  public  faith ;  and  the  Hurtados,  the  Arossamenas, 
the  Gomezes,  the  Quezadas,  the  Paredeses,  and  other  respectable  inhabitants  of 
Panama,  are  too  much  alive  to  the  continuance  and  improvement  of  the  old  over- 
land intercourse,  whereby  their  city  has  flourished,  not  to  protest  against  any  inju- 
rious imposts,  or  prejudicial  interference.  I  believe  that  hitherto,  no  passenger  nor 
merchant  travelling  across  to  Panama,  can  justly  complain  of  any  outrage,  either 
to  his  person  or  property,  from  either  the  local  authorities,  or  from  individuals. 
They  are  all  aware,  that  nothing  short  of  the  resumption  of  the  old  line  of  com- 
munication between  Europe  and  the  Pacific,  can  restore  their  former  prosperity, 
and  develop  the  latent  resources  of  their  beautiful  country ;  and  they  are  prepared 
to  make  every  exertion  to  secure  so  desirable  an  object. 

Had  the  line  of  steamers  above  suggested  been  now  in  operation,  it  is  obvious 
that  the  present  French  blockade  of  the  Atlantic  ports  of  Mexico  could  have  been 
counteracted,  by  sending  the  cargoes  of  vessels  warned  off,  to  Chagres,  across  to 
Panama,  and  thence  to  the  Mexican  ports  of  the  Pacific. 

In  conclusion,  I  may  state,  that  I  understand  proposals  for  Steam  Navigation  on 
the  Atlantic  port6  have  been  submitted  to  the  Mexican  government,  by  a  firm  of 
great  standing  in  that  country  and  in  London,  and  that  a  favorable  answer  is  ex- 
pected by  the  first  packet. 


PANAMA  AND  THE  PACIFIC.  A  MEMORANDUM  SENT  TO  THE  FOREIGN  OFFICE,  ON  THE 
ADVANTAGE  OF  USING  THE  ISTHMUS  OF  PANAMA  AS  A  MORE  RAPID  MEANS  OF  COM- 
MUNICATION BETWEEN  EUROPE  AND  THE  PORTS  OF  THE  PACIFIC  OCEAN.  BY  THE 
HON.  P.  CAMPBELL  SCARLETT. 

In  passing  within  the  last  few  months  down  the  coast  of  South  America,  on  the 
Pacific  side,  from  Valparaiso,  through  Lima,  to  Payta,  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Guayaquil,  and  to  Panama,  and  from  thence  to  the  Atlantic  Ocean  across  the 
Isthmus  of  Darien,  I  had  occasion  to  observe  the  truth  of  representations  fre- 
quently made  to  me  by  British  merchants  in  those  settlements  :  how  much  shorter 
and  more  certain  might  be  the  communication  of  intelligence  from  those  places 
to  England  by  that  route,  than  by  the  passage  round  Cape  Horn.  That  passage 
in  merchant  vessels  to  and  from  England  direct,  averages 

Days. 
For  Valparaiso,  ...         .        .         ...         100 

"    Lima 110 

"    Guayaquil 120 


APPENDIX.  375 

a  length  of  time,  which  is  not  only  inconvenient  for  commercial  objects,  but  which 
m  some  degree  cuts  off  the  British  settler  from  correspondence  with  his  friends 
and  family,  and  unnecessarily  prolongs  the  period  of  receiving  such  intelligence 
as  the  British  Consuls  in  those  quarters  may  find  it  expedient  to  convey  to  the 
Government.  Whereas  the  passage  by  Panama  might,  with  ease,  be  effected  in 
the  following  periods  : 

Bays. 

From  Valparaiso,     '--------62 

"      Lima,        ---------51 

"      Guayaquil,         -         -        ---        -         -         -        -        46 

as  the  following  details  will  show  : 

From  Valparaiso  to  Lima,    -         -         -         -        -        -         -         11 

"     Lima  to  Payta  or  Guayaquil,      .....  5 

'*     Payta  to  Panama,      .....--10 

Across  the  Isthmus,    --------  1 

Thence  to  England,  touching  at  one  of  the  Windward  Islands       35 

Making  in  the  whole,         -         .         62* 
Taking  Lima  as  a  central  position,  by  this  calculation,  it  appears  that  the  differ- 
ence of  time  in  conveying  correspondence  from  the  western  coast  of  South  America 
to  England,  may  be  thus  stated  : 

Days. 

From  Lima  by  Cape  Horn,         - 110 

"  "      Panama, 51 

Difference  of  time  in  favor  of  the  route,  by  the  West  Indies,  59 

The  passage  from  Panama  to  Chagres  is  perfectly  easy,  being  only  twenty-one 
miles  by  land,  and  the  remainder  by  a  river,  safe  and  navigable  for  boats  and  ca- 
noes. This  was  the  route  by  which  the  several  towns  and  provinces  on  the 
Pacific  Ocean  made  their  communications  with  Europe,  before  the  separation  of 
the  Colonies  from  Spain ;  but  the  frequent  revolutions  which  have  taken  place  in 
South  America,  and  the  consequent  poverty  and  want  of  enterprise  in  the  Spanish 
part  of  the  population,  seem  to  have  put  a  stop  to  the  regular  and  periodical  com- 
munications between  these  places,  which  were  formerly  established  by  public 
authority. 


The  following  table-  demonstrates  that  a  vessel,  sailing   from  England,  and 
doubling  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  has  to  sail  as  follows : 

I.  1st,  for  Ceylon,       -         -         -  10,760  miles  (geographical.) 

2nd,  for  Calcutta,   .         .         .  12,770     " 

3rd,  for  Port  Jackson,     -        -  16,950     ". 

4th,  for  Canton,      ...  16,700     "     without  touching  at  the  Indies. 

5th,  for  Panama,     -         -        -  24,140     " 

II.  That  the  same  sailing  from  England,  and  doubling  Cape  Horn,  will  be : 

1st,  for  Valparaiso,  -  -  10,840  miles. 

2nd,  for  Panama,   -  -'  -  15,716     " 

3rd,  for  Canton,      -  -  -  23,156     " 

4th,  for  Ceylon,     -  -  -  26,616     " 

5th,  for  Port  Jackson,  -  -  20,840     " 

*  This  is  unnecessarily  long.   The  journey,  by  way  of  the  Isthmus,  has  been  accomplished  ftora  Lima  to 
Liverpool  in  46  days. 


376 


APP  ENDIX. 


III.  That  the  same  vessel,  sailing  from  England,  and  passing  through  the  canal 
at  the  Isthmus  of  Darien,  will  have  to  sail  only : 

1st,  from  Europe  to  Panama,         .  4,171  miles. 

2nd,  "  Canton, 11,612     " 

3rd,  "  Valparaiso, 9,048     " 

4th,  "  Port  Jackson,  and  Hobart-town,  11,530     " 

5th,  "  Ceylon, 15,072     " 


COMPARATIVE  TABLE. 


By  Cape  of  Go-jd  Hope. 


By  Cape  Horn. 


To  Ceylon,     - 
To  Port  Jackson, 
To  Canton,     - 

a 

To  Panama,  - 
To  Valparaiso, 
To  Lima, 


10,760  26,616 

16,650  10,840    . 
20,970  (touching  at  Calcutta.) 

16,700  23,156 

24,140  15,716 

25,950  10,840 

26,200  12,936 


By  Panama  Canal. 
15,072 

11,536 

11,612 
4,171 
9,048 
6,952 


I.  Distances,  in  a  right  line,  of  the  principal  stopping-places  for  steamships, 
departing  from  Falmouth,  by  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  in  India,  Sumatra,  China, 
Australasia,  Islands  of  Owhayi  and  Otaheite,  and  upon  the  Western  Coast  of 
America : 

Geographical 
From  To  miles.  Total. 

Falmouth      -         -  Canary  Isles,  ...  1,860 

Canary  Isles  -  Cape  Vejd,  ...  840 

Cape  Verd  -  Ascension  Isles,     ...  1,210 

Ascensioa  Isles    -  St.  Helena,  ...  720 

St.  Helena  .  Cape  of  Good  Hope,       .        .  1,740 6,400 

Cape  of  Good  Hope  Cape  of  Aiquilles,  .        .  720 

Cape  of  Aiquilles  Isle  of  France        ...  1,820 

Isle  of  France       -  Ceylon 1,820 

Ceylon         -        -  Bombay,        ....  960 

Ceylon  -        -  Madras,         ....  750 

Madras         -         -  Calcutta,        ....  1,260 .7,330 

Ceylon  -         -  Batavia,         ....  1,680 

Batavia         -         -  Swan  River  (coast  of  Australasia)  1,630 

Swan  River  -  Hobart-town  (Van  Dieman's  Land)  2,160 

Hobart-town         -  Port  Jackson,         -         -        -  720 6,190 

Port  Jackson         -  Sandwich  Islands,  -         .  3,600 

Port  Jackson         .  Society  Islands,  Otaheite,       -  3,104 6,704 


FROM  ENGLAND  TO  CANTON. 

Geographical 

miles.  Total. 

15,410 

1,780 17,190 

3,960 

3,480 24,630 

From  which  we  see  that,  by  doubling  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  they  sail  from- 

lst,  Falmouth  to  Calcutta, 13,730 

2nd,  Falmouth  to  Canton, 17,190 

3rd,  Canton  to  Panama, 7,440 38,360 


From 

To 

Falmouth 

Batavia, 

Batavia 

Canton, 

Canton 

Owhayi, 

Owhayi 

Panama, 

APPENDIX 


377 


II.  Distances,  in  a  right  line,  of  the  principal  stopping-places,  for  steamships 
sailing  from  Falmouth  by  way  of  Cape  Horn,  for  Panama,  Australasia,  Canton, 
&c. 


Geographical 

From 

To 

miles. 

Total. 

Falmouth 

. 

Terceira,  (Azores) 

- 

- 

1,620 

Terceira 

Olinda  (Pernarr 

ibuco) 

- 

- 

2,520 

Olinda 

Rio  Janeiro, 

- 

- 

- 

1,460 

Rio  Janeiro 

i 

Buenos  Ayres 
Cape  Horn,   - 
Valparaiso,    - 

- 

-. 

- 

1,400 
2,040 

—9  040 

Buenos  Ayico 
Cape  Horn  - 

. 

. 

. 

2',200 

Valparaiso 

. 

Lima,   - 

- 

- 

- 

2,096 

Lima  - 

. 

Panama, 

- 

- 

- 

2,780— 

-7,076 

Falmouth 

- 

Panama, 

. 

- 

- 

16,116 

Panama 

. 

Owhayi, 

- 

- 

- 

3,480 

Owhayi 

. 

Canton, 

- 

- 

- 

3,960— 

-7,440 

Falmouth 

. 

Canton, 

- 

- 

- 

23,556 

Canton 

- 

Batavia, 

- 

- 

- 

1,780 

Batavia 

. 

Ceylon, 

- 

- 

- 

1,680 

Falmouth 

- 

Ceylon, 

- 

- 

- 

27,016 

Distances 

by 

the  projected  Canal  at  Panama  : 

Geographical 

Prom 

To 

miles. 

Total. 

Falmouth 

- 

Terceira, 

- 

- 

- 

1,620 

Terceira 

. 

Chagres, 

- 

- 

- 

3,540 

Chagres 

. 

Panama,  across 

the  Isthmus 

of 

Darien, 

. 

- 

- 

12— 

—5,172 

Panama 

. 

Owhayi, 

- 

- 

- 

3,480 

Owhayi 

. 

Canton, 

- 

- 

- 

3,960— 

—7,440 

Falmouth 

. 

Canton, 

- 

- 

- 

12,612 

Falmouth 

. 

Panama, 

- 

- 

. 

5,172 

Panama 

. 

Lima, 

- 

- 

- 

2,780 

Lima 

. 

Valparaiso,    - 

- 

- 

- 

2,096— 

-10,048 

Panama 

- 

Otaheite, 

-' 

- 

- 

3,540 

Otaheite 

. 

Port  Jackson, 

- 

. 

. 

3,104 

Port  Jackson 

Hobart-town, 

- 

- 

- 

720— 

—7,364 

Falmouth, 

- 

Hobart-town, 

- 

- 

- 

17,412 

This  communication  might  be  very  easily  effected  by  the  addition  of  a  few  small 
fast-sailing  vessels  of  war,  or  steamers,  which  should  make  periodical  visits  to  the 
towns  I  have  mentioned. 

The  advantages  of  a  direct  communication  between  Panama  and  the  West 
Indies,  has  already  been  felt  and  obtained  by  the  practice  of  the  admiral  on  the 
West  India  station,  who  is  accustomed  to  dispatch  a  sailing  vessel  of  war,  at  stated 
periods,  to  Chagres,  in  order  to  bring  official  and  other  correspondence,  as  well  as 
specie,  from  the  Pacific  coast  of  South  America. 

I  am  the  more  induced  to  make  these  representations,  from  a  conversation  I  had 
with  Commodore  Mason,  in  which  he  expressed  his  concern,  that  he  had  not  ade- 
quate force  under  his  control  to  give  protection  to  British  commerce  on  the  South 
American  shore  of  the  Pacific,  and  his  confidence  in  the  opinion,  which  has  been 
much  confirmed  by  my  own  observation,  as  well  as  by  the  report  of  others,  more 
competent  than  myself,  that  such  commerce  has  a  tendency  to  increase  if  duly 
protected ;  and  that,  if  vessels  of  war  were  more  frequently  enabled  to  visit  the 


378  APPENDIX. 

ports  on  the  coast  from  Valparaiso  to  Panama,  better  security  would  be  afforded 
to  British  merchants  against  the  revolutions,  to  which  the  property  of  all  persons 
resident  on  those  shores  is  so  often  exposed,  from  the  feebleness  of  the  Govern- 
ments, and  the  successive  changes  which  are  the  consequence  of  that  weakness. 

The  establishment  of  steamboats  would  render  the  return  of  correspondence, 
against  the  prevailing  southerly  winds,  of  equal  rapidity.  The  trade-winds  are 
not  violent  in  that  sea,  and  men-of-war,  in  particular,  have  generally  made  the  pas- 
sage down  the  coast  with  great  dispatch.  However,  the  introduction  of  Steam 
Navigation  in  the  West  Indies,  having  already  shown  that  merchant  sailing  vessels 
are  disposed  to  carry  sufficient  coal  in  ballast,  for  the  supply  of  fuel ;  it  is  equally 
obvious  that  the  same  facilities  might  be  afforded  to  carry  out  coal  to  the  Pacific 
coast,  until  such  time  as,  from  its  raised  value  and  the  increased  demand  for  it, 
the  inhabitants  of  those  regions  may  think  it  worth  their  while  to  work  the  veins 
of  coal,  whicli  are  well  known  to  exist  at  various  places  on  the  western  coast.* 

London,  Sept.  6, 1835. 

*  South  America  and  Pacific.    Lond,  1628.    Vol.  II.  p.  281. 


APPENDIX.  379 

No.    2. 


Since  my  return  to  the  United  States,  I  have  seen  the  following  interesting 
letters  in  the  National  Intelligencer,  on  American  Antiquities,  from  Mr.  Colcraft. 

It  is  to  be  hoped  that  he  will  shortly  favor  the  public  with  an  accurate  drawing 
of  the  characters  on  the  tablet. 

Grave  Cheek  Flats,  (Va.)  August  23,  1843. 

I  have  devoted  several  days  to  the  examination  of  the  antiquities  of  this  place 
and  its  vicinity,  and  find  them  to  be  of  even  more  interest  than  was  anticipated. 
The  most  prominent  object  of  curiosity  is  the  great  tumulus,  of  which  notices 
have  appeared  in  western  papers  ;  but  this  heavy  structure  of  earth  is  not  isolated. 
It  is  but  one  of  a  series  of  mounds,  and  other  evidences  of  ancient  occupation  at 
this  point,  of  more  than  ordinary  interest.  I  have  visited  and  examined  seven 
mounds,  situated  within  a  short  distance  of  each  other.  They  occupy  the  summit 
level  of  a  rich  alluvial  plain,  stretching  on  the  left  or  Virginia  bank  of  the  Ohio, 
between  the  junction  of  Big  and  Little  Green  Creeks  with  that  stream.  They 
appear  to  have  been  connected  by  low  earthen  intrenchments,  of  which  plain 
traces  are  still  visible  on  some  parts  of  the  commons.  They  included  a  well, 
stoned  up  in  the  usual  manner,  which  is  now  filled  with  rubbish. 

The  summit  of  this  plain  is  probably  seventy-five  feet  above  the  present  summer 
level  of  the  Ohio.  It  constitutes  the  second  bench  or  rise  of  land  above  the  water. 
It  is  on  this  summit,  and  on  one  of  the  most  elevated  parts  of  it,  that  the  great 
tumulus  stands.  It  is  in  the  shape  of  a  broad  cone,  cut  off  at  the  apex,  where  it 
is  some  fifty  feet  across.  This  area  is  quite  level,  and  commands  a  view  of  the 
entire  plain,  and  of  the  river  above  and  below,  and  the  west  shore  of  the  Ohio  in 
front.  Any  public  transaction  on  this  area  would  be  visible  to  multitudes  around 
it,  and  it  has,  in  this  respect,  all  the  advantages  of  the  Mexican  and  Yucatanese 
teocalli.  The  circumference  of  the  base  has  been  stated  at  a  little  under  nine 
hundred  feet ;  its  height  is  sixty-nine  feet. 

The  most  interesting  object  of  antiquarian  inquiry  is  a  small  flat  stone,  inscribed 
with  antique  alphabetic  characters,  which  was  disclosed  on  the  opening  of  the 
large  mound.  These  characters  are  in  the  ancient  rock  alphabet  of  sixteen  right 
and  acute  angled  single  strokes,  used  by  the  Pelasgi  and  other  early  Mediterra- 
nean nations,  and  which  is  the  parent  of  the  modern  Runic  as  well  as  the  Bardic. 
It  is  now  some  four  or  five  years  since  the  completion  of  the  excavations,  so  far 
as  they  have  been  made,  and  the  discovery  of  this  relic.  Several  copies  of  it  soon 
got  abroad,  which  differed  from  each  other,  and,  it  was  supposed,  from  the  original. 
This  conjecture  is  true  :  neither  the  print  published  in  the  Cincinnati  Gazette  in 
1839,  nor  that  in  the  American  Pioneer  in  1843,  is  correct.  I  have  terminated 
this  uncertainty  by  taking  copies  by  a  scientific  process,  which  does  not  leave  the 
lines  and  figures  to  the  uncertainty  of  man's  pencil. 

The  existence  of  this  ancient  art  here  could  not  be  admitted,  otherwise  than  as 
an  insulated  fact,  without  some  corroborative  evidence  in  habits  and  customs, 
which  it  would  be  reasonable  to  look  for  in  the  existing  ruins  of  ancient  occu- 
pancy. It  is  thought  some  such  testimony  has  been  found.  I  rode  out  yesterday 
three  miles,  back  to  the  range  of  high  hills  which  encompass  this  sub-valley,  to 
see  a  rude  tower  of  stone  standing  on  an  elevated  point,  called  Parr's  point,  which 
commands  a  view  of  the  whole  plain,  and  which  appears  to  have  been  constructed 
as  a  watch-tower,  or  look-out,  from  which  to  descry  an  approaching  enemy.    It  is 


3S0  APPENDIX. 

much  dilapidated.  About  six  or  seven  feet  of  the  work  is  still  entire.  It  is  cir- 
cular, and  composed  of  rough  stones,  without  mortar,  or  the  mark  of  a  hammer. 
A  heavy  mass  of  fallen  wall  lies  around,  covering  an  area  of  some  forty  feet  in 
diameter.  Two  similar  points  of  observation,  occupied  by  dilapidated  towers,  are 
represented  to  exist,  one  at  the  prominent  summit  of  the  Ohio  and  Grave  Creek 
hills,  and  another  on  the  promontory  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Ohio,  in  Belmont 
county,  Ohio. 

It  is  known  to  all  acquainted  with  the  warlike  habits  of  our  Indians,  that  they 
never  evinced  the  foresight  to  post  a  regular  sentry,  and  these  rude  towers  may 
be  regarded  as  of  contemporaneous  age  with  the  interment  of  the  inscription. 

Several  polished  tubes  of  stone  have  been  found  in  one  of  the  lesser  mounds, 
the  use  of  which  is  not  very  apparent.  One  of  these,  now  on  my  table,  is  twelve 
inches  long,  one  and  a  quarter  wide  at  one  end,  and  one  and  a  half  at  the  other.  It 
is  made  of  a  fine,  compact,  lead-blue  steatite,  mottled,  and  has  been  constructed  by 
boring,  in  the  manner  of  a  gun-barrel.  This  boring  has  been  continued  to  within 
about  three-eighths  of  an  inch  of  the  larger  end,  through  which  but  a  small  aper- 
ture is  leff.  If  this  small  aperture  be  looked  through,  objects  at  a  distance  are 
more  clearly  seen.  Whether  it  had  this  telescopic  use  or  others,  the  degree  of 
art  evinced  in  its  construction  is  far  from  rude.  By  inserting  a  wooden  rod  and 
valve,  this  tube  would  be  converted  into  a  powerful  syphon  or  syringe. 

I  have  not  space  to  notice  one  or  two  additional  traits,  which  serve  to  awaken 
new  interest  at  this  ancient  point  of  aboriginal  and  apparently  mixed  settlement, 
and  must  omit  them  till  my  next.  Yours,  truly, 

HENRY  R.  COLCRAFT. 

Grave  Creek  Flats,  August  24. 

The  great  mound,  at  these  flats,  was  opened  as  a  place  of  public  resort  about 
four  years  ago.  For  this  purpose  a  horizontal  gallery  to  its  centre  was  dug  and 
bricked  up,  and  provided  with  a  door.  The  centre  was  walled  round  as  a  rotunda, 
of  about  twenty-five  feet  diameter,  and  a  shaft  was  sunk  from  the  top  to  intersect 
it ;  it  was  in  these  two  excavations  that  the  skeletons  and  accompanying  relics  and 
ornaments  were  found.  All  those  articles  are  arranged  for  exhibition  in  this 
rotunda,  which  is  lighted  up  with  candles.  The  lowermost  skeleton  is  almost 
entire,  and  in  a  good  state  of  preservation,  and  is  put  up  by  means  of  wires,  on  the 
walls.  It  has  been  overstretched  in  the  process,  so  as  to  measure  six  feet;  it 
should  be  about  five  feet  eight  inches.  It  exhibits  a  noble  frame  of  the  human 
species,  bearing  a  skull  with  craniological  developments  of  a  highly  favorable 
character.  The  face  bones  are  elongated,  with  a  long  chin  and  symmetrical  jaw, 
in  which  a  full  and  fine  set  of  teeth,  above  and  below,  are  present  The  skeletons 
in  the  upper  vault,  where  the  inscription  stone  was  found,  are  nearly  all  de- 
stroyed. 

It  is  a  damp  and  gloomy  repository,  and  exhibits  in  the  roof  and  walls  of  the 
rotunda  one  of  the  most  extraordinary  sepulchral  displays  which  the  world  affords. 
On  casting  the  eye  up  to  the  ceiling,  and  the  heads  of  the  pillars  supporting  it,  it 
is  found  to  be  incrusted,  or  rather  festooned,  with  a  white,  soft,  flaky  mass  of 
matter,  which  had  exuded  from  the  mound  above.  This,  apparently,  animal  exu- 
dation is  as  white  as  snow.  It  hangs  in  pendent  masses  and  globular  drops ;  the 
surface  is  covered  with  large  globules  of  clear  water,  which  in  the  reflected  light 
have  all  the  brilliancy  of  diamonds.  These  drops  of  water  trickle  to  the  floor,  and 
occasionally  the  exuded  white  matter  falls.    The  wooden  pillars  are  furnished 


APPENDIX.  381 

with  the  appearance  of  capitals,  hy  this  substance.  That  it  is  the  result  of  a  soil 
highly  charged  with  particles  of  matter,  arising  from  the  decay  or  incineration  of 
human  bodies,  is  the  only  theory  by  which  we  may  account  for  the  phenomenon. 
Curious  and  unique  it  certainly  is,  and  with  the  faint  light  of  a  few  candles,  it 
would  not  require  much  imagination  to  invest  the  entire  rotunda  with  sylph-like 
forms  of  the  sheeted  dead. 

An  old  Cherokee  chief,  who  visited  this  scene  recently,  with  his  companions, 
on  his  way  to  the  West,  was  so  excited  and  indignant  at  the  desecration  of  the 
tumulus,  by  this  display  of  bones  and  relics  to  the  gaze  of  the  white  race,  that  he 
became  furious  and  unmanageable  ;  his  friends  and  interpreters  had  to  force  him 
out,  to  prevent  his  assassinating  the  guide ;  and  soon  after  he  drowned  his  senses 
in  alcohol. 

That  this  spot  was  a  very  ancient  point  of  settlement  by  the  hunter  race  in  the 
Ohio  valley,  and  that  it  was  inhabited  by  the  present  red  race  of  North  American 
Indians,  on  the  arrival  of  whites  west  of  the  Alleghanies,  are  both  admitted  facts ; 
nor  would  the  historian  and  antiquary  ever  have  busied  themselves  further  in  the 
matter  had  not  the  inscribed  stone  come  to  light,  in  the  year  1839.  I  was  informed, 
yesterday,  that  another  inscription  stone  had  been  found,  in  one  of  the  smaller 
mounds  on  these  flats,  about  five  years  ago,  and  have  obtained  data  sufficient  as  to 
its  present  location  to  put  the  Ethnological  Society  on  its  trace.  If,  indeed,  these 
inscriptions  shall  lead  us  to  admit  that  the  Continent  was  visited  by  Europeans 
prior  to  the  era  of  Columbus,  it  is  a  question  of  very  high  antiquarian  interest  to 
determine  who  the  visitors  were,  and  what  they  have  actually  left  on  record  in 
these  antique  tablets. 

I  have  only  time  to  add  a  single  additional  fact.  Among  the  articles  found  in 
this  cluster  of  mounds,  the  greater  part  are  commonplace,  in  our  Western  mounds 
and  town-ruins.  I  have  noticed  but  one  which  bears  the  character  of  that  unique 
type  of  architecture,  found  by  Mr.  Stephens  and  Mr.  Catherwood,  in  Central 
America  and  Yucatan.  With  the  valuable  monumental  standards  of  comparison 
furnished  by  these  gentlemen  before  me,  it  is  impossible  not  to  recognize,  in  an 
ornamental  stone,  found  in  one  of  the  lesser  mounds  here,  a  specimen  of  similar 
workmanship.  It  is  in  the  style  of  the  heavy  feather-sculptured  ornament  of 
Yucatan — the  material  being  a  wax  yellow  sand-stone,  darkened  by  time.  I  have 
taken  such  notes  and  drawings  of  the  objects  above  referred  to,  as  will  enable  me,. 
I  trust,  in  due  time,  to  give  a  connected  account  of  them  to  our  incipient  society. 
Yours  truly, 

HENRY  R.  COLCRAFT. 

I  have  been  favored  with  a  fac-simile  of  this  stone,  by  Mr.  Bartlett,  the  learned 
and  indefatigable  Secretary  of  our  Ethnological  Society,  who,  in  his  letter  com- 
municating the  drawings,  observes : 

"  I  must  state  a  curious  fact  in  regard  to  the  characters  on  this  Tablet.  I  have 
compared  them  with  the  old  alphabets  of  Europe,  and  find  they  assimilate  strongly 
with  the  letters  of  the  old  Phoenician  and  Anglo-Saxon.  Many  of  the  characters 
may  be  found  in  the  ancient  Greek,  Etruscan,  Phoenician,  Cimbric  or  Welsh, 
Celt-Iberic,  Anglo-Saxon,  &c.  In  the  Celt-Tberic  they  predominate,  as  almost 
every  character  is  to  be  found  in  that  ancient  alphabet.  I  have  racked  my  brain 
not  a  little  in  trying  to  decipher  them,  and,  though  their  value  is  easily  ascer- 
tained, they  cannot  be  combined  so  as  to  be  rendered  into  anything  intelligible* 
It  is  probable  that  we  have  not  a  correct  fac-simile ;  but  this  will  now  be  remedied,, 
as  Mr.  Colcraft  will  take  an  impression  in  wax  of  the  whole  tablet." 


382  APPENDIX 


No.    3 


Since  this  volume  wont  to  press,  I  have  been  favored  with  the  following  very 
instructive  letter,  from  Horatio  Hale,  Esq.,  the  learned  philologist  who  accom- 
panied the  Exploring  Expedition,  under  the  command  of  Captain  Wilkes. 

It  is  pleasant,  when  groping  backward  through  the  labyrinth  of  time,  to  have, 
now  and  then,  some  tangled  threads  of  the  lost  clue  thrown  into  our  hands ; 
and  I  have  no  doubt  that,  when  the  result  of  this  eminent  scholar's  labors  are 
placed  before  the  public,  they  will  obtain  for  him  a  reputation  commensurate  with 
his  genius  and  industry. 

"  Philadelphia,  October,  1843. 
"  My  dear  Sir  : 

"  It  gives  me  pleasure  to  learn,  that  you  are  still  occupied  with  your  work 
on  Mexico,  which  has  been  long  expected  with  great  interest.  There  are  few 
countries,  so  far  as  I  could  judge,  which  contain  more  that  is  worthy  of  being 
described  ;  and  fewer  still,  of  which  so  little  is  accurately  known. 

"  As  to  the  inquiries  contained  in  your  letter,  I  am  happy  to  find  that  we  have 
arrived,  by  different  roads,  at  the  same  conclusion,  with  regard  to  the  origin  of  the 
Mexican  Tribes,  and  the  direction  in  which  their  migration  took  place.  The  results 
of  such  researches  as  I  have  been  able  to  make  into  tbe  languages  of  the  western 
coast  of  America,  though  not  of  a  positive  nature,  seem  to  me  strongly  to  favor 
the  views  which  you  seem  to  entertain,  of  the  progress  of  the  emigrant  tribes  from 
their  probable  crossing-place  at  Behring's  Straits,  along  the  coast — or  rather,  be- 
tween the  coast  and  the  Rocky  Mountains — to  the  Mexican  plateau. 

"  Very  soon  after  commencing  my  investigations  in  Oregon,  I  was  struck  by  two 
facts  of  considerable  importance.  First ;  that  the  numbers  of  distinct  families  of 
languages,  or  independent  races,  was  greater  than  was  to  be  found,  in  so  small  a 
space,  in  any  part  of  the  known  world ;  and,  secondly ;  that,  in  several  eases,  the 
different  tribes,  or  subdivisions  of  a  family,  were  dispersed  at  great  distances  from 
each  other,  and  surrounded  by  several  tribes  speaking  distinct  languages.  I  ob- 
served, that  these  scattered  bands  were  generally  disposed  in  a  line  from  north  to 
south.  It  seemed,  therefore,  not  an  unreasonable  supposition,  that  if  the  numer- 
ous hordes  which  have,  at  different  periods,  overrun  the  Mexican  plains,  proceeded 
in  this  direction,  they  may  have  left  along  their  track,  from  time  to  time,  detached 
parties,  which,  from  some  motive  of  discontent,  would  separate  from  the  main  body, 
and  allow  it  to  proceed  without  them.  This  would  account,  both  for  the  number  of 
small  tribes  speaking  distinct  languages,  and  for  the  manner  in  which  those  speak- 
ing the  same  language,  are  dispersed  through  the  region. 

"As  an  example,  I  may  mention  the  Athabascan  family  or  race,  which  occupies 
the  northern  part  of  our  Continent,  next  to  the  Esquimaux,  and  which  has  been 
found  on  our  northwest  coast,  within  a  hundred  miles  of  Behring's  Straits.  The 
Carrier  Indians,  who  live  north  of  the  Oregon  Territory,  in  about  55°  latitude, 
belong  to  this  family.  Five  hundred  miles  south  of  these,  not  far  to  the  north  of 
the  Columbia,  I  found  a  small  tribe  whose  language  showed  them  to  have  had  the 
same  origin  with  the  Carriers.  Still  farther  south,  on  the  other  bank  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, and  separated  from  the  last-mentioned  by  the  Chinook  tribe,  was  another 


APPENDIX.  383 

detached  band  of  the  same  affinity ;  and  a  hundred  miles  north  of  these,  on  the 
Umqua  river,  was  the  tribe  from  which  it  derives  its  name,  speaking  also  a  cog- 
nate language.  Here  is  a  single  chain,  reaching  from  about  latitude  65°  to  43°, 
or  more  than  half-way  from  Behring's  Straits  to  the  City  of  Mexico.  It  may, 
perhaps,  hereafter,  be  carried  still  farther,  as  my  researches  did  not  extend  much 
beyond  the  last-mentioned  point. 

"I  may  also  observe,  that  the  Shoshonees,  or  Snake  Indians,  are  found,  first, 
on  the  head  waters  of  the  Columbia — then  near  the  head  of  the  California  Gulf ; 
and,  again — under  the  dreaded  name  of  Cumanches,  pushing  their  incursions  into 
the  heart  of  Texas. 

"  In  the  later  history  of  this  tribe — the  Shoshonees  proper — there  is  a  fact  worthy 
of  notice.  I  was  assured  by  trustworthy  persons,  long  resident  in  that  region, 
that  the  Snake  Indians  had  formerly  lived  considerably  north  of  the  present  posi- 
tion— occupying  the  territory  now  in  the  possession  of  the  powerful  Blackfeet 
confederacy — who  have  expelled  them  from  their  ancient  hunting-grounds  ;  and, 
it  was  asserted,  that  there  were  old  men  now  living  among  the  Shoshonees,  who 
had  a  better  knowledge  of  the  country,  at  present  occupied  by  the  Blackfeet  In- 
dians, than  any  of  the  latter  themselves.  My  informants,  (old  fur-traders,)  gave 
it  as  their  belief,  that  all  the  tribes  in  that  region  were  gradually  advancing  toward 
the  south.  In  this  instance,  the  movement  of  the  Blackfeet  tribes  is  not  wholly 
voluntary,  as  they  are  constantly  harassed  on  the  north  by  hostile  bands  of  Crees 
and  Sioux  ;  while  the  Shoshonees,  in  their  southward«progress,  press  before  them 
the  Uchis  and  Apaches,  with  whose  ravages  on  the  northern  borders  of  Mexico 
you  are,  of  course,  well  acquainted. 

"  We  are  familiar  with  a  similar  movement  on  the  old  Continent,  and  understand 
how  it  originates  in  the  hardy  valor  of  northern  regions,  forcing  its  way  toward 
a  more  genial  climate  and  a  more  beautiful  soil.  We  can  also  perceive  how, 
among  wandering  tribes,  like  our  Western  Indians — by  nature  migratory,  and 
bound  by  no  ties  of  cultivation  to  the  land  which  they  occupy — this  movement 
should  be  comparatively  rapid ;  and  we  can  thus  see  how  a  large  body  (like  the 
Blackfeet  nation,  for  instance,)  might,  within  a  few  generations,  be  urged  onward, 
step  by  step,  from  the  northern  sea  to  the  Mexican  plains.  It  has  seemed  to  me 
that  this  fact  might  be  of  some  importance,  as  serving  to  illustrate  the  history 
(given  by  Humboldt,)  which  the  Aztecs  had  preserved  of  their  migration,  and  with 
which  you  must  be  familiar.  I  refer  more  particularly  to  their  gradual  progress, 
(by  stages,  as  it  were,)  making  long  halts  from  time  to  time,  and  again  taking  up 
their  line  of  march  toward  the  south.  I  have  not  this  account  before  me  now, 
but  on  reading  it  a  few  months  ago,  I  thought  I  could  trace  in  the  epithets  which 
they  affixed  to  their  different  encampments,  (if  we  may  apply  this  term  to  their 
halting-places,)  some  of  the  features  of  the  country  west  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains. 

"  It  is  evident  that  these  deductions  would  be  reduced  to  certainty,  if  we  could 
discover  some  resemblance  between  any  of  the  languages  of  Oregon  and  those  of 
Mexico.  Thus  far,  however,  the  comparison  has  not  been  attended  with  success. 
Of  the  twenty  distinct  languages,  spoken  within  the  limits  of  Ancient  Mexico, 
which  have  been  reduced  to  writing  by  the  Catholic  Missionaries,  I  have  been 
able  to  obtain  grammars  of  only  five.  The  collection  which  you  aided  me  in  ma- 
king in  Mexico,  is.  indeed,  the  largest  that  I  know  of  in  this  country.  In  Europe, 
however,  all  that  has  been  published  on  these  subjects,  and  many  valuable  manu- 
scripts, are  preserved  ;  and,  at  some  future  day,  an  opportunity  may  offer  of  com- 
pleting the  comparison." 


334 


APPENDIX, 


No.    4. 


METEOROLOGICAL    OBSERVATIONS 
IN  THE  CITY  OF  MEXICO, 

FOR  ONE  YEAR — FROM  MARCH  8lH,  1833,  TO  MARCH  4tH,  1834. 


TIME  OF  OBSERVATIONS. 

j        MEAN  OF  DAILY  HEIGHT  OF  THE 
QUICKSILVER. 

MEAN  TEMPERATURE. 

Month. 

Day. 

Highest. 

Lowest. 

Centessimal . 

1833. 

9  to  10,  A.  M. 

3  to  5.  P.  M. 

of  the  quicksilver. 

of  the  atmosphere. 

March, 

8 

0.5887 

20.58 

16.62 

" 

29 

0.5856 

22.04 

23.80 

April, 

20 

0.5864 

23.50 

23.58 

ti 

26 

0.5889 

22.50 

19.54 

May, 

7 

0.5896 

22.41 

20.91 

CI 

15 

0.5876 

23.40 

24.45 

June, 

6 

0,5894 

24.45 

20.57 

" 

22 

0.5871 

24.64 

23.87 

July, 

15 

0.5909 

22.14 

20.10 

K 

30 

0.5889 

22.65 

23.78 

August, 

3 

0.5898 

21.50 

18.64 

" 

15 

0.5875 

22.04 

22.73 

September, 

7 

0.5891 

20.24 

18.50 

it 

21 

0.5866 

21.96 

24.32 

October, 

10 

0.5902 

20.21 

17.21 

<< 

18 

0.5872 

21.55 

22.16 

November, 

! 

0.5899 

18.37 

14.62 

« 

21 

0.5872 

19.43 

20.05 

December, 

8 

0.5898 

18.12 

13.87 

<f 

11 

0.5867 

19.34 

19.94 

1834. 

January, 

2 

0.5907 

17.48 

13.24 

tt 

23 

0.5875 

19.32 

20.62 

February, 

4 

0.590G 

18.37 

15.08 

tt 

15 

0.5873 

19.61 

20.79 

March, 

1 

0.5902 

20.17 

16.65 

" 

4 

0.5878 

21.62 

22.75 

MEAN       | 

0.58983 

0.58711       J 

21.06 

19.92 

APPENDIX 


No.    5. 


LIST    OF    PRICES, 

OF  RENTS,  PROVISIONS,  ETC.,  TO   HOUSEKEEPERS   IN   THE    CITY   OF   MEXICO. 


124  cents  per  20  oz. 


124 

18  " 

50 

lb. 

374 

'         pair. 

50 

'         each 

50 

C                   (C 

25 

'         pair. 

Beef, 

Mutton 

Hams, 

Ducks, 

Turkeys, 

Fowls, 

Pigeons, 


Peseao-blanco,  from  the  lake,  624  cents  per 
lb. 


VEGETABLES,  TEA,   COFFEE,  ETC. 


Onions, 

Artichokes, 

Cauliflowers 

Cabbages, 

Peas, 

Corn, 

Barley, 

Rice, 

Radishes, 

Potatoes, 


124  cents  per  dozen. 
25  " 

12£         "        each  (small) 
124  to  25  cents  each. 
25  cents  per  pint. 
$ 5  to  $6  per  carga  of  400  lbs. 


124  cents  per  lb. 


6* 
124 


Beans  (frigoles)  124 
Chile  peppers,  314 
Tomatoes,  124 

Bread,  64  cents  for  four  small 

loaves,  16  ounces  in  all, 


24  dozen, 
quart. 
« 

lb. 
dozen. 


Biscuits, 

Chocolate, 

Tea, 

Coffee, 

Sugar  (refined) 

Sugar  (white) 


Pines, 

Chirimoyas, 

Peaches, 


64  cents  per  16  oz. 
50  "         lb. 

$2  to  $3  per  lb. 
25  to  374  cents  per  lb. 
18J  cents  per  lb. 
124 


124  cents  each. 
6|  to  124  cents  each. 
64  cents  for  four. 
25 


Oranges, 

64 

six. 

Plantains, 

64 

four. 

Grapes, 

25 

lb. 

Walnuts, 

6i 

forty. 

Melons, 

6|  to  124  cents  each. 

Avocates, 

6J  cents 

ror  four. 

Apples, 

124 

dozen. 

Tunas, 

64         " 

(IS 

Lemons, 

64 

n 

Guyavas, 

64       * 

eight. 

Granaditas, 

64 

DRINKS. 

four. 

Milk, 

64  cents 

per  quart. 

Pulque", 

64       " 

three  quarts 

Water, 

64       " 

barrel. 

Aguardiente, 

18| 

quart. 

Mescal, 

25 

tt 

Chicha, 

64       « 

three  pints. 

Orgeat, 

64       « 

quart. 

Agua  de  chia, 

64       " 

FUEL. 

(< 

Charcoal, 

64  cents  for  six  lbs. 

Cook, 

Coachman, 

Waiter, 

Housekeeper, 

Chambermaid, 

Scullion, 


$4  to  $6  per  month. 

15  to  20  " 

15 

8  to  10  " 

3  to    4         " 
3  to    4  " 


They  vary  according  to  situation,  but 
they  are  very  high  throughout  the  Capital ; 
$500— $2500 ;  and  even  higher  rates  are 
given  for  the  very  best. 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Alameda 44 

Arrieros 18 

Aguador 43 

Alameda  of  Mexico 45 

Agave  Americana 76 

Ancient  vase  from  Tula 107—108 

Compared , 108 

Armor  of  Alvamdo 108 

Ancient  Mexican  sacrifices 120 

Ancient  Mexican  calendar 128 

Ancient  arms  and  armor 135 

Armas  de  Agua 163 

An  Alcalde 191 

Alcalde's  secretary 193 

Acaclanca 204 

A  country  Beauty 204 

A  caravaggio  scene 204 

Ayotla 205 

Aztuk  words 216 

Ancient  remains  on  this  Continent 237 

Ancient  remains  in  the  United  States 237 

Ancient  caves 240 

Ancient  paintings  in  caverns 239 

Antiquities 84 

Altars 92 

Alvarado's  armor 108 

Ancient  pyramids 264 

Archbishop's  palace.; 265 

Arbol  Mainta 266 

Accordada 268 

Academy  of  Arts 271 

Aneient  Mexican  priests 115 

Aqueducts,  Spanish 283 

American  Antiquities,  letter  on .379 

Barranca  Secca .19 

Beggars 55—80 

Butchers 54 

Beggar  boy,  story  of  the , 57 

Bull  fight 58 

Reflections  on 61—62 

Barrancas 178-179 

Broad  seal  in  Mexico. 192 

Burial  of  Santa  Anna's  leg 207 

of  Vivanco 228 

Bloody  scenes  during  the  Revolution 230 

Beautiful  residence 235 

Bull  Sancho 236 

Botanic  garden 263 

Base  of  Teoyaomiqui 114 

Bath  of  Montezuma 233—234 

Builders  of  ancient  cities 254 

Bustamanta,  elected  President 340 

Coffee  of  Perote 15—19 

Cholula,  To wn  of. 32 

Casa  Municipal 40 

Canals 41 

Chenampas 42 

Climate  of  Mexico 46 

Court  ceremonies 70 — 71 

Cock-fighting 78 

Calvario  ball 78 

Commission  of  A  Ivarado 108 

Crosses  found  in  Mexico,  &c 113 

Colleges  of  antiquity 118 

Common  sacrifice 120 


PAGE. 

City  of  Blexico,  as  it  was  at  the  Conquest 131 

Cortez's  description  of. 131 

Splendor  of. .131—138 

Conquest  of  the  Capital  and  destruction  of. 137 

Chapultepec 156 

Cruz  del  Marques 169 

Cigarritos  (form  of) 169 

Cuernavca 171 

Hotel  at 171 

Church  at 172 

Casa  Municipal 172 

Situation  of. 172 

Climate  of". 172 

Old  Convent  of 172 

Scenery  of. 173 

Chasms  on  plains 179 

Cocoyotla ■ 181) 

Comparison  of  Indians  and  Negroes 202 

Cuautla 203 

Valley  of. ^  .204 

Cortina,  collection  of. 272 

Caoahua  wamilpa,  cave  of. 192 

Cuautla  rie  Amilpas 198— 203 

Contador,  the 235 

Commerce  of  the  United  States  and  Mexico 310 

Cotton  factories 313 

Crops,  value  of. 314 

Custom  House  returns  for  1841 318 

Church,  wealth  and  influence  of  the 326 

Conventual  establishments,  number  and  property  of.329 

Cortez,  sketch  of. 332 

Conquest  of  Mexico,  character  of  those  who  aided 

in  the 333 

Calleja,  inhumanity  of. 335 

Coaches  and  mules,  Mexican 254 

Character  of  the  Mexicans 292 

Commerce  and  manufactures  of  Mexico 305 

Custom  House,  products  *f  the 305 

Central  Government 339 

Constitution  of  the 339 

Constitution  of  the  Republic 341 

Church  property,  distribution  of. 351 

California,  Lower 362 

Pearl  fishery  of. 362 

California,  Upper 362 

Missions  in 362 

Description  of. 362 

Productions  of 363 

Trade  with 364 

Diligences 9 

Desierto,  the 158 

Duck-shooting  in  Mexico 219 

Domestic  altars 92 

Del  Barrios 175 

Doctor  Morton's  opinion  of  the  American  Indians.  .260 

Evangelistas 39 

Equippages 46 

Egerton's  murder 157 

Earthquakes 214 

Excursion  to  Tezcoco 217 

Executions,  mode  of. 272 

Egyptian  hieroglyphics 259 

Expenses  of  the  government,  civil  list 322 

A  rmy  and  Navy 324 

Education,  estimate  of. 301 


388 


INDEX 


PAGE. 

Exports  from  the  Republic 300 

Exports  and  Imports,  comparative  estimate  of. 306 

England,  encroachments  of. 357 

Policy  and  foresight  of. 369 

Frugality  of  the  Mexicans 17 

Friars  and  Priests 44 

Fire  worship 129 

Feasts  of  human  flesh 122 

Features  of  the  Tierra  Caliente 169 

Funerea  1  rites 227 

Fossil  bones 231—232 

Indian  superstition  in  regard  to 231 

Funeral  vase 101 

Fandango 177 

Federal  Government 337 

Constitution  of  the 337 

First  Congress  of  the 337 

French  fleet  in  the  American  seas 367 

G  i rl  with  reboso 47 

Gran  Socicdad 48 

Gambling 77 

Gladiatorial  sacrifice 123 

Gladiatorial  Stone 123 

Good  Friday 155 

Garden  at  Cuernavaca 172 

Grove  of  the  Contador 235 

God  of  Silence 86 

Grooves  on  hatchets 98 

Glass  lactones 315 

Government  negotiations,  character  of  the 321 

Guanajuato,  butchery  of  the  inhabitants  of  the 335 

Geograpiiical  position  of  Mexico 295 

Guerrero  elected  President 338 

Overthrow  and  execution  of. 338 

Housekeeping 48 

Hnitzilopotchtli IK 

House  of  Mirrors 118 

ii  i una  n  sacrifices 121 

Mode  of 121 

Number  of  victims 125 

Hayden's  murder 141 

Uoly  week  ceremonials 152 

Horseback  journies, * 162 

Hill  of  Flowers 180 

Housekeeping  of  a  Ranchero 190 

Hacienda  of  St.  Inez 202 

Hospitality  of   do 202 

Hoochiotipec 205 

Hammocks 205 

Hard  words 216 

Hunting  bull 235—237 

Houses  of  the  Sun  anil  .Moon 223 

Hidalgo's  trick 230 

Huejutk 231 

Olive  grove  at 231 

Hatchets 98 

Household  gods 102 

Holy  Week 119 

I  Inly  Thursday 151 

Heretics  burned 155 

Hacienda  of  Tcmisco 171 

Hand  flower 266 

Hacienda  of  San  N  ioholos 196 

Sanln  Inez 198 

Hawaiian  Islam].,  American!  on  the 361 

Missionaries  on  the 361 

Iztnccihuatl 33 

Indian  porters 43 

[turbede ,  autograph  of, 75 

Indian  sacrament 112 

Women 142 


fxat. 

Indian  Hote itj7 

Shepherd 167 

With  panniers 167 

Villages 170 

Character  and  Condition 170 

Diplomacy 192 

Degradation 201 

Slavery 201-202 

A  nd  Negroes 202 

Words 216 

Hatchets 98 

■     Women  and  infants 142 

Villages 175 

Alcalde 192 

Races  within  the  United  Slates 257 

Interior  of  a  Rancho 1H0 

Interview  with  an  Indian  Alcalde 191 

Interior  of  the  pyramids  of  Teotihuacan 223 

lndio  Triste 88 

Idol  worshippers,  the 254 

Inhabitants  of  Palenque,  &c 261—263 

Imports  from  the  United  States 310 

Iturbede.  accession, dethronement  and  banishment  of.  336 

The  return  and  execution  of. 337 

Idols  found  at  Tula 275 

Figures  of  unknown  Mexican 277—278 

Idol  found  in  Oajaca .279 

Insurrection  of  1841 340 

Its  causes 341 

Inaccessibility  of  Mexico 347 

Isthmus  of  Panama,  advantages  of  the 374 

Jalapa— .lourney  to 9 

Description  of. 15 

Beautiful  women  of. 16 

Judases 155 

Journey  to  the  Tierra  Caliente 159 

Journies  on  horseback 162 

Juan  Gonzales 204 

Litera 7 

Las  Vigas 19 

LaHoya 19 

Letter  writers 39 

Lonja 40 

Le  peros 41 

La  horde 172 

Licences 192 

Lake  of'Tezcoco 218 

O  f  t  h  e  v  a  1 1  ey 218 

dualities  of. 218 

Lasso 229 

The  benefits  of 18S 

La  Molina 235 

Ladies  in  church 153 

Laborde,  history  of. 172 

Garden  of. 173 

Lakes  near  the  City  of  Mexico,  position  and  level  of.282 

Mexican  frugality 17 

Soldiers. 10 

Fruits IK 

Medal 39 

Politeness 50 

Lady  going  to  mass 51 

Beauty 52 

Mythology 109 

Heaven 10a 

Hell 110 

Deities Ill 

Berape 162 

Horsemen 163 

Spur 164 

Fleas 204 

Hospitality 200 

Ea  rihquakes 214 

Words 216 


INDEX. 


389 


Mexican  Bijou 235 

Sportsmen 237 

Talent  for  sculpture .83 

Lakes,  the  character  of  the  waters,  note.  .218 

Manuscript, 258 

Cosmogony 264 

Teocallis 264 

Mexico,    Road  to 33 

Valley  of. 34 

City  of. 36 

Approach  of. 37 

Appearance  of. 38 

View  from  the  Cathedral 38 

Cathedra!  of. 40 

Alameda  of. 45 

Living  in 48 

Market  in  Mexico 39 

Moonlight  of  Mexico 46 

Monte 78 

Montezuma  and  his  Court 133 

Style  of 134 

Miquahuitl 136 

Montezuma's  presentiments 138 

Murder  of  the  Swiss  Consul 140 

Mairet's  murder 140 

Murder  of  Hayden 141 

Murder  of  Mr.  Egerton 157 

Mules 163 

Mountain  views 166 

Miraculous  breakfast 168 

MolledeGuagelote 168 

Michapas 189 

Miguel  Benito 190 

Mr.  Webster  in  Mexico 191 

Modes  of  sleeping 205 

Meztli-Ytzagual - ....223 

MicoatI 223 

Measurements  of  the  ruins  of  Teotihuaoan 223 

Montezuma's  inkstand 227 

Milperos  and  blackbirds 227 

Madame  Santa  Anna 227 

Montezuma's  bath 234 

Museum 89-90 

Marble  vases 96—97 

Mint 267 

Monte  Pio 267 

Mineria 268 

Miacatlan 186 

Musical  Indians 197 

Mapilca,  ruins  of. 246 

Misantla,  ruins  of. 230 

Milla,  ruins  of. 251 

Manufacturing  establishments,  value  of. 314 

Mines,  production  of  the 325 

Mexican  Revolution,  outline  of  the 335 

Origin  of  the 335 

Mexico,  inundation  of  the  city.... 282 

Mortality  in  the  Capital 300 

Mexican  tribes,  origin  of  the 382 

Meteorological  observations  in  the  city  of  Mexico.  .384 

National  Palace 39—265 

Negroes  and  Indians 202 

Nanahuatzin 225 

Nati  vidad 231 

Nuestra  Sefiora  de  Loreto 153 

Native  m  usicians 197 

National  debt 320 

Native  family,  private  life  of  a 293 

Newspapers  and  Periodicals,  statement  of. 303 

JNi  aturalization  laws 349 

Orange  groves 189 

Otumba 222 

Origin  of  Mexican  lldolatry 89 


Peak  of  Tepiacualca 19 

Perote 20-21 


PAGE. 

Fuebla,  description  of. 23 

Alameda 24 

Cathedral 24 

Precious  lamp 24 

Virgin  Mary  in 25 

Pyramid  of  Cholula 26 

Description  of. 26—27 

Legend  of. 2S 

Building  of. 28 

Quetzalcoatl 29 

Feathered  serpents  of. 31 — 32 

Plaza  of  Mexico 39 

Parian 39 

Passeo  de  la  Viza 42 

President  Santa  Anna 42 

Passeo  Nuevo 45 

Pulque 76 

Priests  of  Antiquity 118 

Population  of  the  mountains 169 

Pyramid  of  Xochicalco 180 

Popocatepetl 33—208 

Crater  of. 208 

Ascent  of. 209 

Pico  del  Fraile ,...212 

Measurements  of. 215 

Geology  of. 214 

Outline  of. 216 

Pyramids  of  San  Juan  Teotihuacan , 222 

Plan  of  the  ruins  of  do 223 

Priests  of  the  pyramids  of  do 225 

Perro  Mudo 86 

Palm  Sunday 150 

Palace  of  the  Archbishop 265 

Of  the  Government 


Prison  ■ 


..„_ 9SS 

Statistics 270 

Penasco,  collection  of. 272 

Primitive  viilage 175 

Indians 175 

Papantla,  pyramid  of. 248 

Ruins  of. 249 

Peopling  of  America 255 

Peruvian  remains 257 

Water  vessels 257 

Palace  of  the  Incas 258 

Popocatepetl,  flora  of. 210 

Paper  factories 315 

Political  history 332 

Population  of  New  Spain  in  1793 299 

1803 300 

1830 300 

1842 300 

Pedraza  Gomez  elected  President 337 

Political  prospects 34G 

Panama  Mission 368 

Pacific  Ocean,  steam  navigation  on 389 

Peak  of  Orizaba 1— 15— 19 

Puente  Nacional U 

PuentedelRey 11 

Plan  del  Rio 12 

Description  of. 23 

Puerto  de  San  Lazaro.. 37 

Measurements  of. 27 


Ouemada ....240 

Ruins  of. 241 


Robbers , 14-33 

Rebosos * 53 

Revolution  of  1841 70 

Rancho  de  Michapas 189 

Rancheros  household 190 

Remains  near  the  Pyramids  of  Teotihuacan 224 

Revolutionary  jugglery 230 

Ruins  northwest  of  Chihuahua 239 

Revolution 81 

Ruins  of  Xochicalco 180 


390 


INDEX. 


Revenue  and  resources 317 

Railway,  scheme  to  construct  a 283 

Recruits,  manner  of  raising 286 

Return  home 355 

Specie  imported  into  the  United  States  from  Mexico. 311 

Statistics  of  trade 31X 

Manufactures 312 

Santa  Fe  Expedition,  note 312 

Trade 318 

Smuggling,  extent  of. 319 

Sinking  Fund,  creation  of  the 322 

Stamps  or  Seals 273 

Serpents,  figures  of. 276 

Schools  and  Seminaries 302 

Scotch  and  York  Lodges 337 

Santa  Anna,  Minister  of  War 338 

Spanish  power  subdued  by 338 

Revolutionary  movements  of. 338 

Elected  President 33y 

Proclaimed  Dictator 339 

Captured  by  the  Texans 339 

Cunning  of,  note 340 

Reelected  President 341 

Power  of., 345 

Personal  appearance  of. 73 

Presentation  to 72 

Autograph  of. 75 

Dinner  with 74 

Suggestions  as  to  the  mode  of  the  regeneration  of 

Mexico.. 352 

Shoshones,  or  Snake  Indians 383 

San  Michael 19 

San  Martin 33 

Salt  Lakes 36 

Social  features 49 

San  Augustin 76 

Festival  at 76—77 

Sacrificial  knife 122 

Sacrificial  ycke „ 121 

San  Cosme 140 

San  Augustine  de  las  Cuevas »162 

Serape 162 

Sombrero 163 

Spur 164 

Story  of  Laborde 172 

Santa  Inez 201 

Senor  Vargas 202 

Santa  A nna's  leg 207 

Stratagems  of  a  hunter 235 

Sculpture 83 

Small  Idols 91 

San  Nicolas,  Hacienda  of. 196 

San  Inez,  do 198 

Senor  Vargas 202 

Tortillias 17 

The  beggar  boy  (story  of) 57 

Teoyaomiqui 109—113 

TeocalliofMexfco 118 

Temples  in  the  Capital 118 

Tradition  in  relation  to  the  conquest 139 

Tacubnya 157 

Tierra  Caliente 159 

Features  of. 169 

Tetecala 188 

Tenango 205 

Tezcoco,  Lake  of. 218 

Scenery  of. 210 

Depth  of. 218 

Town  of. 220 

Ancient  town 220 

Pyramids  of. 221 

Ancient  bricks  of. 221 

Palace  of  Montezuma 221 

Puente  de  Ins  Brignntinas 221 

Ancient  group  from 221 


Page. 

Tonatiuh  Ytzagual 223 

Tradition  of  the  pyramids  of  Teotihuacan '.225 

Tezcosingo 229 

Theatre  balls ..149 

Tennisco 174 

Tetecala 157 

Teocallis 116—117 

Teopans ug 

Tezcosingo,  Hill  of. 233 

Tusapan,  Temple  of. 247 

Statue  and  fountain  at 218 

Tio  Ignacio 253 

Temple  of  Pachacamac 258 

Tabella  Plicalis 258 

Troops,  parades  and  discipline  of  the 285 

Theatres  in  Mexico 237 

Thieving,  impudent  and  adroit 288 

Territory  of  the  Mexican  Republic 299 

Trade  with  Tampico,  American  and  Foreign.. 308— 209 

Metumoras 300 

Table  of  distances,  and  hours  steaming  from  Pana- 
ma to  various  parts 371 


Use  of  the  Lasso. 


Voyage  to  Vera  Cruz 1 

Vera  Cruz 3 

Appearance  of  town  of. 4 

Alameda  of. . , 5 

Diseases  of. 7 

Baptisms  and  burials  of. 7 

Water-fall  at 8 

Vomito g 

Vergara,  Hotel  of. 37 

Virgin  in  the  Cathedral .11 

Virgin  of  Guadalupe 63 

Her  festival ..63 

Her  churches 64 

Her  legends 65 

Her  picture 67 

Her  offerings 68 

Her  sonnet 69 

Her  indulgences 69 

View  from  San  Augustin 79 

Virgin  of  Remedios 142—145 

Festival  of 145 

Legend  of. 145 

Description  of. 148 

Vale  of  Cuemavaca 169 

Village  gaxabks. .,£04 

Viaticum 227 

Vases  and  Cups 93—94—95 

From  Tula 107 

Virgin  of  Dolores,  festival  of. 149 

Value  of  sugar  estate 174 

Vera  Cruz,  commerce  of  the  port  of. 307 

Vi«tori;i  elected  President 337 

Revolutionary  movements  against 337 

Vera  Cruz,  blockaded  by  the  French 340 

Whipping  Indians 201 

Wax  figures 83 

Woollen  blankets,  manufacture  of. 315 

Xachicalco 180 

Reliefs  on 182—183 

Examination  of. 184 

Caverns  of. 184 

Subterranean  vaults 185 

Trad ition  of. 185 

Restoration  of  pyramid 186 

Xolott 2J5 

Sun  and  Moon,  origin  of. 225 

Zopilote,  the  dance  of. 537 


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ALISON   FOR   ONE   DOLLAR! 


NOW   HEADY, 

AT   THE    NEW   "WORLD    OFFICE,    NO.    30    ANN  STREET,    IN 

ONE    LARGE     AND    SPLENDID     VOLUME, 

OF  5iS   PAGES,  OCTATO  SIZE,  ON  NEW  LONG-PRIMER  TYPE, 

ALISON'S 

HISTORY  OF  EUROPE, 

FROM  THE  COMMENCEMENT  OF  THE 

FRENCH  REVOLUTION  IN  1789 

TO  THE 

RESTORATION  OF  THE  BOURBONS  IN  1815. 

ABRIDGED  FOR  THE  USE  OF  THE  GENERAL  READER,  AND  ALSO   FOR   COLLEGES, 
ACADEMIES,  AND  OTHER  SEMINARIES  OF  LEARNING, 

BY  EDWARD  S.  GOULD. 


This  splendid  volume  will  embrace  the  most  complete,  perspicuous,  and  comprehensive  History  of  Eu- 
rope, during  the  stormy 'period  from  1789  to  1815,  which  has  ever  been  given  to  the  world.  It  is  a  perfect  abridge- 
meat  of  Alison— his  errors  excepted— in  elegant  language  and  clear  style  ;  and  will  prove  fur  more  acceptable 
tr.  the  general  reader  than  the  verbose  original. 

We  need  not  say  to  those  who  have  read  Harper's  edition  of  Alison,  that  it  abounds  with  gross  errors.  These 
are,  for  the  most  part,  copied  literatim  et  verbatim  from  the  English  edition,  which  is  sown  thick  with  thern. 
They  are  of  such  a  character  as  not  only  to  impair  the  value  of  the  work,  but  to  render  it,  as  a  standard,  in 
which  minute  accuracy  is  indispensable,  almost  worthless.  In  our  abridged  edition,  every  mistake  even  of  the 
most  trivial  sort  is  corrected,  and  Mr.  Alison  is  set  right,  not  only  with  regard  to  the  geography  of  places,  but 
with  regard  to  historical  facts,  which  he  has  sometimes  in  the  strangest  manner  perverted  from  their  notorious 
bearing  and  character.  Take,  forexample,  his  ignorant  and  prejudicial  account  of  our  war  with  Great  Britain. 
Shall  this  be  allowed  to  go  abroad  among  the  youth  of  America  to  damp  their  patriotism  and  chill  their  ardor  1 

The  intelligent  reader  need  not  be  informed  that  it  has  always  beeii  usual  to  issue  Abridgements  of  very  long 
and  valuable  histories ;  and  that  these  abridgements,  from  their  better  adaptation  to  the  mass,  have  often  taken 
the  place  of  the  original  works.    In  Harper's  Family  Library  are  found  volumes  of  this  kind. 

We  beg  leave  to  assure  our  friends  and  the  public,  who  ought  to  be  our  friends,  that  the  book  we  shall  give 
them,  will  be  highly  creditable  both  to  the  editor  and  publisher;  and  that  it  will  contain  every  fact  and  incident 
detailed  by  Alison,  in  as  full,  circumstantial  and  clear  a  manner  as  is  necessary  for  the  full  satisfaction  of  the 
reader,  whether  he  be  old  or  young,  learned  or  ignorant. 

Among  the  many  commendatory  letters  in  reference  to  our  proposed  Abridgement  of  this  great  and  faulty 
work,  we  refer  with  pleasure  to  one  from  no  less  distinguished  a  personage  than  the  Hon,  Roger  Minot  Sfer- 
man,  of  Connecticut.  It  is  as  follows,  and  singularly  corroborative  of  the  views  which  we  a  fortnight  since,  ex- 
pressed on  the  subject : 

Fairfield,  Conn.,  October  2, 1843. 

"My  Dear  Sir— I  have  takes  all  but  two  of  the  16  numbers  of  Alison's  history,  and  have  read  half  of  it.  It  is 

SO  FILLED  WITH  TEDIOUS  AND  USELESS  DETAILS  AS  GREATLY  TO  KMPAIR  ITS  VALUE.  The  period  it  embraces 

is  one  of  the  most  interesting  in  the  annals  of  the  human  race,  and  all  the  important  facts  are  given  with  fidelity. 
But  the  vast  compilation  of  facts,  which  are  neither  interesting  nor  instructive,  prevents  its  very  general  pe- 
rusal. 

"  I  was  much  gratified  to  find  by  the  New  World  of  September23d,  that  "  Edward  S.  Gould,  Esq."  bad  abridged 
the  work,  reducing  it  to  one  octavo  volume.  I  will  suspend  my  future  attention  to  the  copy  which  Inowhave, 
and  await  the  arrival  of  the  abridgement.  A  dollar  is  stated  to  be  the  price.  I  enclose  that  sum,  and  wish  ycu 
would  have  the  good.iess  to  procure  the  volume  for  me,  and  send  it  by  the  first  opportunity. 

Very  truly  yours,  R.  M  SHERMAN." 

The  capitals  and  italics  in  the  foregoing  letter  are,  of  course,  our  own.  We  are  proud  to  place  the  name  of  the 
venerated  writer  first  among  the  purchasers  ol  our  work— a  name  dear  to  all  lovers  of  learning  and  true  patriots. 
Mr.  Sherman's  lofty  standing  and  character  are  too  well  known  to  need  the  record  of  our  pen  ;  but  as  he  is  among 
the  great  men  of  a  former  generation,  and  has  never  mingled  in  the  political  contests  of  the  day,  there  may  be 
those  who  are  not  aware  that  he  is  the  most  eminent  member  of  the  bar  in  Connecticut,  and  for  many  years  held 
the  office  of  judge  in  the  highest  court  of  that  State.  Approval  from  such  a  source  is  highly  gratifying,  and 
counterbalances  the  false  abuse  of  a  thousand  such  interested  parties  as  Harper  and  Brothers, 

New  York,  October,  1843.  J.  WINCHESTER,  30  Ann-street. 


Books  for  r  -  York. 


MYSTERIeToF  PARIS. 

2    N  0  v  t  I . 

BY    EUGENE    SUE. 

TRANSLATED    FROM    THE    FRENCH    BY 
HEMIY    C.    DEMING. 


We  do  not  hesitate  to  pronounce  this  -wort  to  be  imon:  .ordinary  romances  of  modern  times 

Its  pnhBrtrion  in  Pars  produced  a  greater  sensation  than  any  other  work  ever  issued  in  the  French  metropolis. 
Tbe  novel  certainly  excites  the  roost  intense  and  startling  interest.  As  the  tale  proceeds,  the  reader  is  introduced 
to  every  diversity  of  scene,  from  the  roost  harrowing  to  the  most  tou  -—  -■  ■:  -r  variety  of  character,  from  the 
Boat  degraded  to  the  most  spiritual.  The  taste  for  the  horrible,  and  the  taste  for  the  refined,  will  find  in  it  a 
source  of  gratification.   A  powerful  intellect  is  displayed  in  the  plo:  .-.  foresee  from  the  commence- 

ment what  is  to  he  tbe  end.  The  moral  bearing  of  the  work  is  unexceptionable.  Indeed,  the  chief  design  of  the 
author  appears  to  be  to  illustrate  the  unhr.ppy  condition  of  the  lower  classes  in  France,  and  to  effect  its  melio- 
ration by  mearj  . :  doctrine  be  advocates  with  a  powerful  pen.  Lessons 
of  chanty,  forgiveness  and  mercy  are  inculcated  in  tbe  most  eloquent  manner. 


OPINIONS    OF    THE    PRESS. 

Prom  tbe  Ne-  .         —  E 

**  One  of  tbe  mostly  interesting  and  thrilling  works  that  has  bee'  rars," 

From  the  Ai:  urnaL 

**  It  s  a  Tery  interesting  work.  full  of  thrilling  scenes  an .'.  Ifl  its  description  of  tbe  haunts 

and  habits  ot  some  of  tbe  rcffians  who  prowl  about  Pans,  it  bears  a  strong  resemblance  to  portions  o: 
Twist :'  and  with  these '  shadows '  are  mingled  the  '  lights '  of  Parisian  life  with  a  truth  to  nature  that  Dickens 
has  rarely  surpassed  m  bis  best  moods." 

Prom  the  Boston  Duff 
"  After  reading  only  a  scsall  portion  of  this  extra  ordinary  -York,  we  can  readily 

for  tbe  enthusiasm  created  by  its  appearance  in  tbe  ci:y  of  Paris.    Though  a  tale  of  modem  limes,  it  has 
with  the  stories  of  the  age  .     located  in  the  heart  of  the  old  world,  are 

Its  characters  are  such  ns  seldom  see  the  1  r  n  the  page  of  the  novelist.    In 

tbe  first  part  of  bs  work,  Eugene  Sue  plunges  from  the  light  I  be  city  of  Paris, 

into  those  fearful  and  dark  abodes,  where  want,  folly,  and  crime  hold  eternal  reign,  and  where  the  only  sem- 
blance of  enjoyment  e  tbe  frightful  carnival  held  by  successful  villainy  and  triumphant  vice.  Here  and  there  are 
statteied  scenes  and  characters  of  a  different  an  J  h  r  :-  the  reader  a  hint  that  be  is  ascending 

in  the  scale  of  society,  and  that  beginning  on  the  lowest  round  cf  the  ladder,  be  will  finally  rise,  as  the  author 
intimates,  to  the  broad  level  of  high  refinement  and  ■  f  wonderful  imagina- 

tion—and  b  already  well-known  to  fame.    The  present  work  seems  to  be  the  crowning  effort  of  his  pen. 

the  New- York  Son. 
"  Tbis  attractive  novel  seems  destined  to  as  great  popularity  in  this  country  as  it  enjoy:  in  France.    It  gives  a 
perfect  Daguerrotype  view  of  life  in  Parts  in  all  its  various  lights  and  shades,  its  scenes  of  gayety  and  splendor, 
of  misery  and  vice.    Tbe  history  ofliterature  furnishes  no  parallel  to  the  enthusiasm  with  which  each  successive 
chapter  was  received  by  tbe  whole  i  are  wooderrulry  spirited:  all  full  of 

kkkve  in  their  language  and  picturesque  truth  in  detail.  The  spirit  of  she  original  is  admirably  preserved  in  this 
translation,  which  is  made  from  the  pages  of  tbe  Journal  des  Dehals.  where  tbe  work  was  orieinally  published. 
ITi  inn  ai  in  i  i ills'  ■  as«r  ftriWra  ~  irnrf  rititing  romance;  unlike  most  French  novels,  its  morality  is  unex- 

From  tbe  New-York  Daily  Tribune— Edited  by  Horace  Greeley. 

■  sve  been  somewhat  hrtetested  by  the  war  cf  the  ;  to  it  and  having  beard  both 

sides,  asesatisfied  that  WIN  CHE-Ti       -  INAL  AMERICAN  BUT  INCOMPARA- 

BLY THE  MOST  FAITHFIL  TRANSLATION— IM  FACT.  THE  ONLY  ONE  THAT  HAS  ANY 
-         LAIM   TO   BE   CONSIDERED   AN   ENGLISH  VERSION   OF   EUGENE   tl£;  WORK. 
ffkitaxr  detirci  to  catch  the  rpirtt  and  talent  of  tie  author  tlunUd  reed  this  edition.'" 
From  tbe  Trc. 

"  Mysteries  or  Paris.  New  Wori.dE-  n  -nslatian,  as  we  ha  ve  before  observed,  is  REMARK- 

ABLE FOR  ITS  ELEGANTE  AND  FIDELITY,  and  i-S  IMMEASURABLY  SUPERIOR  TO  THAT 
PUBLLSHED  BY  THE  HA.  first  is  the  work  of  an  elegant  scholar,  who  enters  thoroughly  and 

roturcively  into  tbe  spirit  of  all  tbe  brilliant  contentions  of  his  original :  tbe  latter,  that  of  a  mill-horse  drudge, 
who,  with  dictionary  in  hand,  digs  stopidly  and  mechanically  into  the  rich  mine  which  is  opened  before  him." 

Price  One  Dollar.    The  usual  discount  to  the  tnde.    Address  

J.  WINCHESTER.  30  Ann  street.  New. York 


"  Books  for  the  People  ™  J    T  -..    -.-. :-.  M  _i  -.r.-street,  New-York. 

JUST    PUBLISHED. 

■   vpLETE     1ST     TEN     JAETS,     AT     TVI\IT-FIYJ     CENTS     EACH, TOX 

THREE  DOLLARS,  HANDSOMELY  BOUND, 

SIR   JOHN    FROISSART'S 

CHRONICLES 

OF 

ENGLAND,  FRANCE,  SPAIN, 

THE    ADJOINING    COUNTRIES: 

TEE   MOST  RARE,  VALUABLE.   EHTEKBSTCSa  BJSB    CEUBAlKS  WOES   EVER  FUBLISHED   IS  THE   WORLD; 
ELEGANTLY  tlUMTOHU  ON  STZPERJTSE  WHITE  PAPER,  AND  SPLENDIDLY  ILLrSTRATED  WITH  OVER 

ONE  HUNDRED  AND   TWENTY  ENGRAVINGS, 

MeHUCSE>"T:N3  TZE    BCEMES,  COSTOSES.  BUSKS  BATTLES,  HAVA1  ENGAGEMENTS  AND  TOUBJCAMESTS 

OF  THE  MIDDLE  AGES.  ENGRAVED  AT  A  COST  OF 

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"  Did  you  ever  read  Froissat         "3  1 II  xtm   •  answer.    "  I  iave  half  a  mind."  said  Oaverbouse, 

"  to  contrive  you  should  have  six  months*  i_v.  : if  r  to  procure  you  thai  pleasure.    His  chapters 

inspire  ma  with  more  enthusii  _     .    .  Ssel£*" — Old  Mortality. ' 

"  V."  I  «p  the  Chronicles  of  Froissart  most  a a ve  been  dull  indeed  if  he  did  not  find  himanf 

transported  back  to  the  days  of  Cressy  and  Poictiers." — Sir  Walter  Soott. 


The  works  of  Sir  John  Froissart  have  been  celebrated  by  poets,  historians  and  novelets,  lor  more 
than  four  centuries.  For  many  years  after  their  first  publication  they  -were  circulated  only  through  the 
medium  of  manuscripts,  and  they  were  deemed  presents  worthy  of  kings  and  princes.  These  manuscripts 
were  frequently  «wtirfl*«h«l  with  illustrations  of  a.  gorgeous  description.  They  were  done  in  bright 
colors  on  the  broad  margins  of  the  parc.n—  e  I  page  bence  they  have  been  said  to  be  iUumijutted.  The 
edition  which  we  present  is  a  reprirt  of  that  w  appea  red  in  London  but  three  years  since,  and  which  is  by 

far  the  best  and  most  satisfactory  that  has  e<  a  een  ~.  ...  _.-  be  ~ :  .;  ; :  ::":se  7  .._■_  stated  with  engraviaejB  oat 
wood,  representing  scenes,  customs,  costumes  and  figures  of  the  olden  time,  executed  expressly  for  us  in  the 
most  careful  and  elegant  manner. 

The  language  in  this  edition  w3l  be  found  perfectly  modernized,  and  therefore  easily  understood  by  all  read- 
ers. In  ouaintness  and  simpli: :/  : :  style,  -"-  is  almost  scriptural.  The  interest  of  the  story  increases  greatly  as 
you  rea  i  wee  of  .      ..-_..=  s.  :_-.e.  t:e  oosl  _   :     .-  and  abundant  ever  discovered, 

r  :  est  modem  novelists  and  dramat;::  es      Rs     riginal  of  many  a  chivalrous  and 

many  a  tender  scene  in  Scott,  and  James,  azi  thes  MJaranporames,  —_i  be  recognized  in  the  vivid  pages  of 
'*  old  Froissart." 

The  Chronicles  extend  from  133d  to  1400.  They  comprehend  every  consaSstaMe  affair  which  happened  during 
that  period  in  France,  England,  SeorJaiad,  Brela  I  ai  iBha ie.-=.  They  include  also  a  vast  number  of  paxticu- 
lais  relative  to  the  afrVu' 5       B  -     -  jfS   ain,  Germany.  Italy;  even  of  Russia,  Hungary,  Tur- 

-  '-:^i — in  short,  of  a       ......     e  known  ^ 

Froissarthas  always  been  deemed  bj  sd  .::  indispensable  pae-recjulsite  to  the  reading  and  right  compre- 

hension  of  modern  history.  '*  I  rejoice  yon  have  met  wita  Ftoissan.""  trr::e  tr.e  poet  Grayto  one  of  his  triends, 
"  he  is  the  Herodotus  of  a  barbarous  ags.  *  *  His  locomotive  disposition,  1  for  then  there  was  no  other  way 
of  learning  things,!  his  simple  curiosity,  his  rebgtoos  aecoaty,  were  much  like  those  of  the  old  Grecian." 

Ft:  ob  the  New-York  Tribune. 

These  Chronicles  have  stood  the  test        E   see  .;  an  tie  time  they  first  appeared,  have  been  the 

admtratic  :i  if  be       •  country  of  Europe.  Who  can  add  to  the  praises  of  St.  Palaye,  of  Montaigne,  of 

Gray,  and  SirWaltei  Scott  !    1  roissart— "  the  Herodotus  of  abarbarous  age,  with  his  simple  curiosity  and 

re  IgioDS  ::=_■_...      "  has  been  the  dehghl  gt     ::"  all  who  love  to  read 

"  OfboJd  :;-ea"s  bloody  conrbatJBg  and  gentle  ladies'  tears." 
He     .-  prese    bed  a     nng  pich  its  boisterous  spring-time,  with  all  its  tumultuous  pleasuses,  its 

is  1  lies,  .  ..  its  :.._.-  e  :  ;  sets  ..:  He  as  e  ■■•? 9  us  1  tj  e  sot  . :"  the  splendor  and  the 
m  r  the  heroic  world.  Be  has  haramitied  to  posterity  brilliant  examples  of  dauntless  hen -15x11,  and 
:  .'.:  :        ::       ..       es;  .     "..■. 

With  tie  sympathy  andspiri:  ofan  eje-wilh  :-;  ..  ■'  :a  the  frankness  of  an  old  priest  anxious  to  entsrtaii 
■  ;  .  ■  v.  ■  ■-  •  :  •:  .  "  s-  ■—  '..=  ■  .-.-.s  ;■  >.;:;-.■-.  ■■  :  -  ■■  ..  ;  as"  ceti.:si  tie  ::tfst  nt.frest  .-  --  s 
■  i   -    •  .  .   -  r   .        r  ■      ;:  z    :  :     ;  ;v^  -    5  - ~  '■  'r  ;:.-  ;:;;:;  ::' :.         ..:  be  has       • 

-'  .  1  ■'.-.:     rs  -■■:      ;;v.fr.  ...  :   ..:  can  excite  curiosity  in  the  usages  of  warfare, 

in  the  lives  and  fortunes  of  not.  e=.  in  chesqoar.  :" ;. :.;..- :i.  ..  :_  tie  amusements  of  that  class  with  whom  he 
associated. 


"  Books  for  the  People,"  published  by  J.  Winchester,  30  Ann  street,  New-York. 


THE 

IRISH    SKETCH-BOOK, 

BY  MR.  M.  A.  TITMARSH. 

WITH  NUMEROUS  ENGRAVINGS  ON  WOOD, 

FROM    THE    AUTHOR'S    DESIGNS. 

PRICE  37^  CENTS— THE  USUAL  DISCOUNT  TO  THE  TRADE. 

We  copy  the  following  notices  of  this  capital  work  from  late  English  papers.  They  speak  truly.  A  better 
work  has  not  appeared  for  a  long  time.    It  will  take  rank  with  the  Sketch-Book  of  our  own  Irving : 

"  Michael  Angelo  Titmarsh  is  precisely  the  writer  who  should  sketch  Ireland  as  it  is.  In  the  >olumes  before 
us,  he  has  caught  the  very  characteristics  of  the  clime,  and  his  narrative  runs  on  amid  sunshine  and  tears,  alter- 
nating between  gay  and  grave,  with  a  never-failing  interest,  which  leaves  one  no  chance,  having  once  opened 
the  book,  but  to  read  it  to  its  very  last  page — ay,  and  to  profit  by  it,  too. 

"  The  pencil  sketches  of  Titmarsh  are  extremely  clever."— [Morning  Chronicle. 

"  One  of  the  most  valuable  books  of  travelling  sketches  that  has  been  published  for  many  a  day  ;  and,  ex- 
cepting '  Inglis,'  it  presents  the  best  idea  of  Ireland  and  the  Irish  that  we  have  met  with The  reader 

has  set  before  him  a  graphic  picture  of  Irish  manners,  character,  and  modes  of  living.  .  .  .  Taken  as  a 
whole,  the  book  is  capital."— {Spectator. 

"  A  ramble  through  Ireland,  in  which  everything  is  taken  as  it  comes— character  and  wit  are  in  all  the  draw- 
ings.   We  think  the  book  uncommonly  clever,  humorous,  and  kindly."— [Examiner. 

"  Evidently  the  work  of  a  man  of  acute  observation,  of  warm  sympathies,  and  excellent  humor." — [Akis- 
worth's  Magazine. 

"The  style  is  witty,  humorous,  epigrammatic,  and  original.  In  addition  to  this,  the  author,  who  is  a  quick 
and  clever  draughtsman,  has  interspersed  his  volumes  with  many  characteristic  sketches,  which  convey  faithful 
and  stirring  representations  of  what  he  witnessed  ;  and  his  eminent  abilities  as  an  artist  have  enabled  him,  as  far 
as  print  and  paper  will  go,  to  present  some  of  the  most  glowing  descriptions  which  we  have  yet  read  of  Irish 
scenery.    Taking  it  altogether,  it  is  a  valuable  and  faithful  record  of  the  country."— [Atlas. 


MARMADPKE    WYVIL; 

OR, 

THE    MAID'S  REVENGE. 

%n  historical  Romance. 

BYH     W.    HERBERT,   ESQ., 

AUTHOR   OF    "  CROMWELL,"    "THE    BROTHERS,"    ETC.,   ETC.,   ETC. 

PRICE  37}4  CENTS  — THE  USUAL  DISCOUNT  TO  THE  TRADE. 

This  admirable  historical  romance  has  met  with  almost  unprecedented  favor  from  the  public  Marmnduke 
VVyvil  is  a  tale  of  the  Commonwealth,  abounding  with  Cavaliers  and  Roundheads,  and  filled  with  the  most 
stirring  action  and  varied  interest.  Alice  Selby,  the  heroine,  is  one  of  the  most  touching  nnd  beautiful  portraits 
of  which  prose  fiction  can  boast.  Mr.  Herbert  has  won  for  himself  an  enduring  reputation  by  this  delightful 
work.  We  observe  that  the  London  literary  journals,  received  by  the  Columbia,  are  unanimous  in  its  praise. 
The  "  New  Monthly  Magazine"  for  July,  says  : 

"  Suffice  it  that  the  power  and  interest  of  the  work  rises  at  every  step,  and  that  the  last  volume  is  by  far  the 
most  stirring  and  effective  of  the  three,  and  that  in  which  all  the  sympathies  of  the  reader  (to  whatever  class  he 
may  belong)  are  most  effectually  appealed  to.  And  this  is  especially  true  in  regard  to  those  readers  from  whom 
a  writer  like  Mr.  Herbert  can  alone  be  supposed  to  look  for  his  reward.  In  fact,  the  concluding  scenes  nt'  this 
romance  rise  to  a  tragic  and  poetical  interest  which  places  them  very  far  above  those  which  may  by  many  be 
conceived  to  surpass  them  in  artistinil  skill  and  graphic  power." 

"  A  still  belter  work  than  '  Oliver  Cromwell.'  "— (Athenanim. 

"  The  production  of  a  man  of  genius."— [John  Bull. 

"Decidedly  one  of  the  ablest  novels  that  the  present  season  has  produced."— (Sun. 

"  In  this  very  clever  stury,  the  spirit  of  the  time  is  sketched  in  a  manner  almost  equal  to  the  masterly  '  Wood- 
stock.'"—[Weekly  Chronicle. 

"  A  work  of  absorbing  interest.  It  is  fully  equal  to,  if  it  does  not  actually  surpass  anything  of  the  kind  that 
has  appeared  since  the  days  of  the  Crent  Wizard  of  the  North."— [Sunday  Times. 


has  i 


"  Books  for  the  People,"  published  by  J.  Winchester,  .30  Ann  street,  New-  York. 

PRICE    3  5    CENTS. 

THE  BIBLE~IN  SPAIN; 

OR,   THE 

JOURNEYS,  ADVENTURES  AND  IMPRISONMENTS 

OF   AN   ENGLISHMAN, 

IN   AN 

ATTEMPT  TO  CIRCULATE  THE  SCRIPTURES  IN  SPAIN. 

BY  GEORGE  BORROW, 

AUTHOR    OF    THE    "GIPSIES    OF    SPAIN." 

This  work  has  been  pronounced  by  all  the  recent  leading  Reviews  in  Great  Britain  of  the  highest  critical 
authority,  the  most  charming  production  of  the  day.  In  a  late  London  Quarterly,  it  is  commended  in  the 
most  cordial  terms,  and  largely  extracted  from.  It  is,  indeed,  a  spirit-moving  and  enthralling  book — written  in 
a  style  of  the  most  perfect  ease  and  elegance,  and  full  of  recountals  of  thrilling  adventures  and  picturesque 
descriptions.  Though  instinct  with  genuine  feeling,  there  is  nothing  of  a  religious  or  sectarian  character  in  this 
work  ;  but  it  is  rather  a  narration  of  the  author's  residence  and  travels  in  all  parts  of  Spain,  during  five  years  in 
which  he  was  the  agent  of  the  English  Bible  Society  for  the  circulation  of  the  Scriptures  in  the  Spanish  Penin- 
sula.   We  subjoin  a  few  extracts  from  the  London  press : 

"We  conceive  Mr.  Borrow  has  in  these  pages  come  out  as  an  English  author  of  high  rank.  Considering  the 
book  merely  as  one  of  adventures,  it  seems  to  us  about  the  most  extraordinary  one  that  has  appeared  in  our 
own,  or  indeed  in  any  other  language,  for  a  long  time  past.  Indeed,  we  are  more  frequently  reminded  of 'Gil 
Bias,'  in  the  narrative  of  this  pious,  single-hearted  man,  than  in  the  perusal  of  almost  any  modern  novelist's 
pages." — [London  Quarterly  Review. 

"  This  is  a  most  remarkable  book.  Highly  as  we  praised  the  '  Gipsies  of  Spain,'  much  as  we  had  reason  to 
expeot  from  any  subsequent  effort  of  the  writer,  we  were  certainly  not  prepared  for  anything  so  striking  as  this. 
Apart  from  its  adventurous  interest,  its  literary  merit  is  extraordinary.  Never  was  book  more  legibly  impressed 
with  the  unmistakeable  mark  of  genius."— [Examiner. 

"  There  is  no  taking  leave  of  a  book  like  this.  Better  Christmas  fare  we  have  never  had  it  in  our  power  to 
ofTer  our  readers."— [Athenaeum. 

The  following  is  from  the  Boston  Bulletin  ; 

"  Borrow's  Bible  in  Spain,  just  published  in  a  cheap  form,  at  the  New  World  office,  is  unquestionably  the 
richest,  raciest,  most  interesting  book  of  travels  which  the  reading  world  have  had  placed  before  them  for  a  long 
time.  Issued  in  London  at  two  guineas,  or  ten  dollars,  we  believe,  it  is  now  within  the  reach  of  the  American 
reader  for  twenty-five  cents.  We  know  not  how  it  can  be  afforded  at  such  a  price.  It  is  really  the  cheapest  of 
all  cheap  books,  as  it  is  among  the  best  that  the  press  has  recently  sent  forth." 


PRI  CE    35    CENTS. 


THE  ZINCALI; 

OR,  AN  ACCOUNT  OF 

THE    GIPSIES   OF    SPAIN. 

WITH   AN 

ORIGINAL  COLLECTION  OF  THEIR  SONGS  AND  POETRY. 
BY  GEORGE  BORROW, 

AUTHOR    OF    THE    "BIBLE    IN    SPAIN,"    ETC. 

Every  reader  of  that  delightful  book — the  prize  book  of  the  season — "The  Bible  in  Spain" — will  hail  the 
appearanee  of  another  work  by  the  author,  in  the  same  cheap  and  commodious  form,  with  feelings  of  sincere 
pleasure.  Nothing  can  be  more  exciting  and  interesting  than  this  picturesque  and  vivid  narrative  of  the  cus- 
toms, habits,  and  dwellings  of  those  wild,  strange,  and  gregarious  people.  They  are  more  wonderful  than  the 
Egyptians  of  old,  or  the  wandering  hordes  of  Asia  and  Africa.  Mr.  Borrow  lived  among  them  till  they  fancied 
him  one  of  themselves ;  and  the  reader  may  well  be  subject  to  the  same  illusion,  on  account  of  the  perfect 
knowledge  which  the  author  displays,  with  all  the  romantic  incidents  and  adventures  of  these  Ishmaelites  of 
modern  days.  ™~~™™™™„ 

ft*T  Both  these  works  have  gone  through  several  editions,  thus  proving  their  great  popularity.  They  are  pub- 
lished in  Extra  numbers  of  the  New  World,  and  may  be  sent  by  mail  to  any  part  of  the  country.  Five  copies 
of  each  for  one  dollar. 


"Books  for  the  People,"  published  by  J.  Winchester,  30  Ann  street,  New-York. 

"       LIFE  AND  EXPLOITS 

OF  THE 

DUKE  OF  WELLINGTON, 

EMBRACING,    AT   ONE    VIEW,    THE   WHOLE 

MILITARY  CAREER  OF  THIS  ILLUSTRIOUS  WARRIOR, 

INCLUDING   A   COMPLETE 

HISTOEY  OF  THE  PENINSULAR  WAR, 

WITH   ALL   THE   SPIRIT-STIRRING 

INCIDENTS  AND  ANECDOTES  OF   THAT  MEMORABLE  CONTEST. 

WITH  MORE  THAW  FORTY  HANDSOME  ENGRAVINGS. 

This  work  comprises  a  percect  account  of  a  period  of  history,  than  which  there  is  none  more  important  ar.d 
exciting.  It  details  with  life-like  power  the  mighty  deeds  which  were  enacted  in  the  Peninsular  War,  and 
during  the  whole  course  of  the  Spanish  Revolution.  It  is,  rn  a  word,  the  best  popular  history  of  "  the  Duke" 
that  has  ever  been  issued  from  the  press.  It  presents,  in  a  style  of  comprehensive  simplicity,  every  prominent 
event  in  the  life  of  the  Great  Captain.  It  is,  indeed,  a  matter  of  surprise,  and  it  must  strike  every  reader  that 
such  a  mass  of  history  can  have  been  condensed  into  so  small  a  compass. 

No  reader  of  t::ste,  who  is  desirous  of  information  either  for  himself  or  the  members  of  a  household,  whether 
old  or  young,  should  fail  to  procure  a  work,  from  which  so  much  can  be  gained  at  so  little  cost. 

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LIEBIG'S  ANIMAL  CHEMISTRY, 

OR, 

ORGANIC  CHEMISTRY, 

IN  ITS  APPLICATION  TO  PHYSIOLOGY  AND  PATHOLOGY. 

BY    JUSTUS    LIEBIG, 

PROFESSOR  OF  CHEMISTRY   IN  THE  UNIVERSITY   OF   GBISSEN. 

This  valuable  work,  it  is  admitted  on  all  sides,  marks  the  commencement  of  a  new  era  in  physiology.  Liebig, 
by  the  profound  sagacity  which  enabled  him  to  erect  so  beautiful  a  structure  on  the  foundation  of  facts  which 
others  had  allowed  to  remain  for  so  long  a  time  utterly  useless,  has  elicited  the  admiration  of  the  scientific 
world.  His  important  discovery  of  the  true  source  of  animal  heat,  would  alone  immortalize  him.  The  author's 
objeot  in  this  work,  has  been  to  direct  attention  to  the  points  of  intersection  of  Chemistry  with  Physiology,  and 
to  point  out  tho^e  parts  in  which  the  sciences  become,  as  it  were,  mixed  up  together.  The  volume  contains  a 
collection  of  problems,  such  as  Chemistry  at  present  requires  to  be  resolved ;  and  a  number  of  conclusions, 
drawn  according  to  the  rules  of  that  science,  from  close  observations  and  long  experience. 

New  edition.    Price  12k  cents— Ten  copies  for  $1- 


LECTURES  ON  MODERN  HISTORY 

BY   THOMAS   ARNOLD,    D.D., 

LATE    REGIUS    PROFESSOR    OF    HISTORY    IN    THE    UNIVERSITY    OF    OXFORD. 

This  work  is  the  best  introduction  to  the  reading  of  History,  ever  offered  to  the  public.  It  has  been  reviewed 
and  highly  commended  by  the  Inte  Itritish  Review!  and  Magazine.',  and  it  has  acquired  a  new  value  in  conse- 
quence of  the  rei i  lamented  death  of  the  gifted  author.    The  Lectures  are  eminently  striking  and  original, 

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ardent  love  of  Historical  itadiet.  They  impart  a  great  degree  of  information  concerning  all  the  subjects  about 
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Our  edition  will  be  recommended  by  an  original  Preface,  written  expressly  for  it,  by  J.  G.  Cogswell,  Esq., 
the  talented  and  learned  Editor  of  the  New-York  Review. 

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"Books  for  the  People,"  published  by  J.  Winchester,  30  Ann  street,  New-York. 

KATE 

IN   SEARCH  OF  A  HUSBAND. 

21  JDonusttc  Komana. 

BY    A    LADY    CHRYSALIS 

One  of  the  most  popular  works  of  fiction  that  has  ever  proceeded  from  the  American  press.  In  four  months 
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IN   SEARCH   OF    A   WIFE. 

%  Qcqud  to  "ixatc  in  Seauf)  of  a  fijttsbattfr." 

BY  A  GENTLEMAN  BUTTERFLY. 

ThiS  is  c.  sparkling  and  delightful  story.  The  author,  who  is  distinguished  in  the  literary  world,  sketches,  witn 
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WINDSOR    CASTLE. 

3ln  §!s1orintl  lHomatu*. 

BY    W.    H.    AINSWORTH,   ESQ., 

AUTHOR    OF    THE    "  MISER'S    DAUGHTER,"    THE    "  TOWER   OF    LONDON,"   ETC.,    ETC. 

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FAMILIAR 

LETTERS  ON  CHEMISTRY, 

AND  ITS  RELATION  TO 

COMMERCE,  PHYSIOLOGY,  AND  AGRICULTURE. 

BY    JUSTUS    LIEBIG,    M.  D  .  Ph.  D.  F  .  R  .  S  ., 

PROCESSOR  OF  CHEMISTRY   IN  THE  UNIVERSITY  OF   GEISSEN,  AUTHOR  OF  "ANIMAL   CHEMISTRY,"  &C.,  &C 

A  new  work  on  Chemistry,  written  in  a  popular  style,  and  intended  for  Schools,  Academies,  &c.  will  be 
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"  Books  for  the  People,"  published  by  J.  Winchester,  30  Ann  street,  New- York. 

FREDERIKA  BREMER'S  NOVELS. 

i. 

THE   HOME; 

OR 

FAMILY  CARES  AND  FAMILY  JOYS. 
BY  FREDERIKA  BREMER. 

TRANSLATED    BY    MARY    HOWITT 
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THE  PRESIDENT'S  DAUGHTERS. 

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NINA: 

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BY    FREDERIKA   BREMER. 

TRANSLATED  BY  MARY  HOWITT. 
Price  12}^  Cents — 10  copies  by  mail  for  $1. 


'  The  universal  popularity  of  Miss  Bremer's  novels,  reminds  us  of  the  days  of  VVaverly  and  the  Red  Rover. 
She  is  the  most  exact  delineator  of  character  now  living :  her  pictures  are  finished  with  all  the  elaborate  nicety 
of  a  French  painting.  No  novelist  has  at  all  approached  her  in  the  interest  with  which  she  invests  home-scenes 
and  incidents  of  every-day  life,  which,#n  her  hands,  assume  an  interest  rivalling  the  more  romantic  and  dignified 
events  of  Scott's  romances."— [National  Magazine. 

"The  Home,  on  Family  Cares  and  Family  Joys.— Another  of  Frederika  Bremer's  delightful  novels, 
translnted  by  Mary  Howitt,  one  of  the  best  rind  pleasantest  writers  of  the  English  tongue,  has  been  issued  in  a 
New  World  Extra.  To  any  one  who  ha9  read  '  The  Neighbors,'  by  the  same  author  and  translator,  it  will  be 
needless  to  recommend  this  new  work.  If  there  be  any  who  have  not  enjoyed  that  pleasure,  we  would  advise 
them  to  procure  both,  with  as  little  delay  as  possible.  These  volumes  are  among  the  most  delightful  books  evei 
written,  possessinc  ft  deep  nnd  unflagging  interest,  and  withal  perfectly  free  from  objection  in  a  moral  point  of 
view.  They  tend  to  confirm  and  strengthen  the  social  affections,  to  purify  the  heart,  and  elevate  the  under- 
standing. Miss  Bremer  is  one  of  those  rare  geniuses  to  whom  nature  has  given  both  the  ability  ond  will  to  do 
good  in  this  world,  and  she  does  it.  Her  writings  have  all  the  vigor  and  freshness  of  Bulwer,  with  a  sweeter 
vein  of  sympathy,  a  deeper  tone  of  pathos,  and  a  more  refined  and  delicate  air  of  sentiment.  There  is  nothing 
in  her  books  that  enn  give  offence,  but  much  that  is  beautiful  and  true,  and  calculated  to  improve;  and  they 
are  in  every  way  interesting  and  agreeable."— [Messenger,  Buffalo. 

"  Fredkrika  Bremer.— This  lady  is  deservedly  destined  to  great  eminence  in  the  literary  world.  Her  books 
are  gems,  written  with  a  heart  full  of  love,  and  abounding  in  genius.  They  are  not  high-wrought  stories  of  un 
real  life  ;  like  very  minute  painting,  they  delineate  all  the  finer  faculties  of  our  nature  in  the  most  delicate  and 
pleasing  form.  They  possess  an  elevated  moral  tone,  nnd,  as  pictures  of  domestic  life,  «re  inimitable.  We 
cheerfully  recon.inind  them  !ci  every  mother  and  father— to  every  daughter  and  son— as  works  that  cannot  fail 
trebly  to  repay  the  reading.  '  The  Home,'  which  we  are  now  reading,  has  awakened  in  us  new  sensations  of 
wonder  and  delight."— [Daily  Gazette,  Detroit,  Mich. 


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